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New Cosmic Blue 9-3 SE Vert

19K views 120 replies 11 participants last post by  griffin dai 
#1 · (Edited)
After a long & hard think last week I decided to break my 9k Aero.
Full project thread on UKSaabs:
http://uksaabs.co.uk/UKS/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=52165

Had done a fair bit to it but the bodywork needed a lot of attention and when I weighed it all up...better to cut my losses now than pump another £5/6/7K into it.

Few days before it goes...


Snow cleared up! So last thursday I loaded it up for the final journey and off we went :cry:







Here it is with my friend who's now breaking it, been a cracking car, have enjoyed the last 3 years and I'll surely miss her.


Never thought I'd get rid of it but the cost of fixing it would have been too much so it had to go....gutted! Had BIG plans for it too....
 
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#2 ·
So onto the new one!

Its a B204 9-3 lpt vert, pretty much standard except for TSW (???) 17" alloys, lowering springs (look like Abbott Racing) and a different head unit.

Previous owners pics:











Drove up to view this one and a silver SE Sport in the same area, as soon as I saw this I knew it would be a good one! Test drive showed up no problems, bodywork was in very good condition bar a scuff on the door and small ripple on the passenger wing...odd stone chip (its 12 years old so expecting that) and most importantly...NO RUST!!! Condition was a massive concern on the 9k's replacement as I don't want to be spending thousands on this car only to scrap it in 3/4 years time again! Also had 89k on the clock and a new (6 month old) roof!! Left him a £500 deposit...
 
#3 ·
Drove my 9k back up next morning loaded up with kit for my friend to bin/sell...then he took me to collect it. Paid the remaining balance, aaand....

GOT ME A COSMIC BLUE 9-3 SE VERT ;ol;

30 minute drive back to his place and although its just a tad slower than my 9k!.....being down by a good 300bhp!!!! It feels much much nicer to drive, hard to imagine its only 5 years younger than my 9k as it feels like its just a couple years old. Was expecting the longer drive to show up all sorts of problems, as the test drive was pretty short due to the icy roads. Couple of small niggles that need attention like the wing mirrors don't work, SID1 has missing pixels and there's a small crack on the Carbon look dash. Nothing major...for £1,500 I'm well happy!!

Got to my mates workshop and the mods basically started within 3 or 4 mins!!

9-5 Aero perforated leather steering wheel to replace the standard one!



Both cars facing off!! Gonna really really miss the 9k..been a good mate to me! :cry:



Left there after around an hour...said goodbye to the 9k (sad day) then took the long way home in my new purchase and got back around two and half hours later! Apart from the mirrors, had a trouble free journey...got picked on by a few boy racers (think its these alloys) but couldn't do a thing about it with only 154bhp to play with....love days like that in my 9k!! Has wiped a few smirks off peoples faces :lol: Pulled up back home and noticed a slight fan like noise coming from inside the cabin down by the gearstick....will sort that out next week.

New home!


Just had to wait for the missis to come home from work now and explain why there's a blue Saab on the drive with no roof...told her I was going to just view a couple :lol: ....she was not a happy bunny!!
 
#4 ·
Next morning once she'd gone to work and my battered body could function I had a better look at the car to see exactly what needed doing/changing and if any nice surprises were waiting!

First up is the modified grill, looks nice and has the mesh installed behind it. Might stick a small 'turbo' badge on there later on....


Stickers!!! These are going next week!


This one stays!


Small scuff on drivers door needs touching up


Some wear on the drivers seat bolster, will dye that with the kit I've got upstairs


Rears are in good nick


Door cards look grubby in the pics but they're fine in the flesh! Can also see the difference with the tints. Big fan of tinted windows!


Carbon look dash...not sure about this yet. Might sell it later and cover a wood one in C/F vinyl instead (same as my 9k) you can just make out the crack here.


Clarion double din head unit.

Wasn't too impressed with this at first as it seemed to just have 3 different sound modes! But now I've sat down and had a play around with the settings its really REALLY good!! Was going to swap this for an Alpine touch screen unit when I upgrade the system (more on that later) but I'll leave it for the time being! Also found some high quality RCA's in the boot...maybe the speakers have also been upgraded?? Will take a look. SID1 will be replaced with a working SID2 in time.

Am over the moon with it! Have been fancying one for ages but kept putting it off to get bits done to the 9k instead.
 
#5 ·
The next day we had a bit of sun so I dropped the roof and went to pick the missis up from work.



Took the car up to a bit of speed to see how it felt with the roof down & windows down/up....def not a 100-150mph car like the 9k!! The plan for this one was a Holset Super HX40 build and push for over 600bhp!! Nope...don't think so!! I think it'll be too much so will come down a few turbo sizes and go for a TD04 Hybrid instead. Should be pretty quick below a ton with around 350bhp...besides I've been pushing my luck with the 9k, time to calm down a bit.

Timed a 60-100 to see where its at...got 9.5 seconds!! 9k used to get under 4! Hoping to get around 5-5.5 when its al done.....we'll see!

Also found out my iPhone connects up to the Clarion unit so I can access all my music! Saves me buying an ipod now!

Next up....mods :evil:
 
#6 ·
First... nice car. I have a similar 'vert.

Those mirrors probably work, it's usually the switch. You can clean it, but I've found that if you just push it back and forth a few dozen times in each direction that it will start working again without even pulling it out. They get dirty contacts from lack of use.

You 60-100 time is slow IMO. Start with the basics and check from there.

Have you dropped the pan yet? Is PCV Fix #6 installed? If not, do both ASAP.

I see the Abbott Racing decal - do you know what's been done to the car? They do need some suspension mods to make them feel good, although they are usually comfortable at high speed. Makes me think you might need some tuning. Note that they don't have independent rear suspension, so you have to get used to that.
 
#7 ·
Hi, thanks.

It's a T5 car so does it still need the PCV done & sump dropped as I thought that just applied to the later T7 engines?

Yeah it's not that quick tbh but it's a compoletely standard engine, will be going for a stage 1 map with T7 modded ecu next month to give it a bit more sparkle.

Abbott Racing sticker.... it's def been lowered and my friend thinks its got Abbott springs with standard dampers fitted, will take a look when I get home. I've called Abbotts about this but they don't know the car so can't be sure.

I've got a few goodies coming for the suspension side thanks to the UKSaabs guys help & advice...just need 3 or 4 things then that's more or less covered. Brakes I'm 50/50 on upgrading to 308's or just fit DS3000 pads...not sure yet.

Tuning- Will be re using some bits off my stage 6 9000 then just add a hybrid turbo, tubular and my old Abbott cams (cams later date though with uprated valve springs) I was going to re-use my gt3076r but I think a hybrid will be better for me & keep it quick below 90-100
 
#8 ·
Pretty good looking vert but I'm sure it's tough to break the 9K.

Probably the best thing about the T5 lpt is it's got the same turbo as the fpt and HOT so adding a bunch of fun to the car is very very easy. Of course, if you go crazy on it like you did the 9K, it won't be necessarily easy, but you can add a crazy amount of fun and most of what you learned on the 9K is the same as on the 9-3.

Probably the biggest challenge will be the suspension. The 9K is a pretty stiff chassis, not so much the 9-3 vert.
 
#10 ·
Pretty good looking vert but I'm sure it's tough to break the 9K.
Yep, the final drive to the breakers was an emotional one :cry::cry::cry: (did give it one final blast though...had to be done!!!)

Learnt a lot with that car and its easily the quickest thing I've ever driven or even sat in....just ballistic! But, time for a reality check on that car and I think was the right thing to do....will be missed though :cool:

I'll do a bit of a write up later with whats planed for the 9-3 over the next couple months to get it ready for the summer (probably get 1 days sunshine knowing my luck!!) and what engine mods for later in the year, wont be as mad as the 9k but should still raise a few pulses :lol:
 
#11 ·
Yeah, whoops... I missed that it was a 204. You're probably OK on the sludge issue. I'd still pull the valve cover and take a look inside. Depending on what you see in there you can decide if you want to pull the pan. PCV#6 is also a non-issue for a T5.
 
#12 ·
Onto the fun stuff!!

Will be concentrating on the handling side first. Tbh its no where near as bad as I expected, actually pretty impressed!! But I'm sure it can be improved. (My 9k must have been shagged in the handling dept!)

Will be just adding to/adjusting this list as I go on...can't do it all in one go but want it done by the summer!

Have got the following coming next week to be fitted in March:

PFS Steering Rack Clamp

http://www.partsforsaabs.com/product_info.php?products_id=2894

Ebay 6 Point Subframe Brace

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SAAB-BRAC...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f13c001c6

Abbott Racing Sherical-Joint Track Control Arm Bushes, Inner Part


http://www.abbottracing.net/product.php?id_product=209

Also getting some nearly new Powerflex TCA bushes off a friend next week with some luck... so that lot should sharpen things up a bit by all accounts! My own DIY VRK!!! I'll pop down to the local screwfix depot and get some decent bolts for the PFS clamp though as I've been told they're not too hot.

9k polly upper engine mount modified to fit the 9-3 strut brace.



Definitely doing this mod once I get the parts back off my 9k as I've got a yellow one on there already ;ol;

 
#13 ·
Stuff to get as and when funds allow:

Bilstein B8/Maptun springs combo from Neo's, will be ordering on Monday after I chat with them....

http://www.neobrothers.co.uk/bilste...p-2907.html?osCsid=94fkcmnpu9o33l4cl2t3q66th4

A couple Powerflex bushes, was initially looking at getting the full kit but as I've got the inner & outer TCA arms coming, plus PFS clamp and Abbott bearing kit I just need a few more bits instead!

Powerflex Rear Axle Mounting Bush (Monday)

http://www.neobrothers.co.uk/rear-a...p-2313.html?osCsid=94fkcmnpu9o33l4cl2t3q66th4

Piggy back ARB!!! Def getting this done! Was looking at the SAS one but this is miles cheaper and apparently just as good :cool: (ASAP)

Also will be looking at a Rear Strut Brace but as I'll have a small sub & one or two amps in the boot...not sure if I can do it yet? (TBC!!)

Can't stretch to a LSD so I just need to add some decent tyres to all that and I'm hoping it will improve things a bit. Tyres I'm considering a few ranging from Kuhmo V70A's to Toyo R1R's (had the Toyo's on my 9k for a year and they're very good...pretty cheap on ebay to) but the V70A' are meant to be fantastic :cool: (Trying to bag a V70A deal!!)


Not sure about the following? I don't think need the steering rack mount now as I've got the PFS clamp...need to 100% confirm this though...

http://www.neobrothers.co.uk/steeri...p-2279.html?osCsid=94fkcmnpu9o33l4cl2t3q66th4

The front ARB bushes and drop link bushes..50/50 on these but will probably go for them...need to chat with Neos about it.
http://www.neobrothers.co.uk/front-...p-2256.html?osCsid=94fkcmnpu9o33l4cl2t3q66th4
http://www.neobrothers.co.uk/front-...p-2270.html?osCsid=94fkcmnpu9o33l4cl2t3q66th4

Was hoping to get these parts further down the line when I get the cash... but the shipping from the States is just too expensive so will have to leave it for a while :cry:

GS Taliaferro Engine Mount

http://www.genuinesaab.com/catalog/...d=475&osCsid=83b43619c4794082f7fd3032ccf02519

GS Taliaferro Gearbox Mount

http://www.genuinesaab.com/catalog/...d=158&osCsid=83b43619c4794082f7fd3032ccf02519

GS Taliaferro Strut Brace, this I REALLY fancied!! And have been told it will fit as long as I don't use a Viggen Master Cylinder....but again the shipping is just too rich for me, so that idea will have to be shelved for now.

http://www.genuinesaab.com/catalog/...d=632&osCsid=83b43619c4794082f7fd3032ccf02519

GS Taliaferro Steering Rod Bushes...will probably also go for these if I do get the above bits later in the year.

http://www.genuinesaab.com/catalog/...d=623&osCsid=83b43619c4794082f7fd3032ccf02519

Expensive shopping list that seems to get bigger & bigger!!...still in shock after getting the Abbott bush kit!!!!! But its meant to be worth it and a few guys have recommended I do it, so we'll see how it goes....
 
#14 ·
Couple thoughts... no, you don't need the rack bushings if you do the rack brace. It wouldn't hurt, but the brace seems to do the job adn is very important for UK cars to help prevent bulkhead cracking.

You really should put on a rear bar. The piggyback bar is only about 25% of the strength of an upgraded bar, as I recall. We had a whole thread on it here a while back where we did the strength calcs. The exception might be if you use some flat steel to weld the two bars together into a box beam. That can be very strong, so you will have to experiment with how much box you want.
 
#15 ·
You really should put on a rear bar. The piggyback bar is only about 25% of the strength of an upgraded bar, as I recall. We had a whole thread on it here a while back where we did the strength calcs. The exception might be if you use some flat steel to weld the two bars together into a box beam. That can be very strong, so you will have to experiment with how much box you want.
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind for later this year, I'll just piggy back it for now as its the cheapest option (bank accounts taken a hammering this month and I've still got some stuff to get!!) then look at the 25mm SAS bar further down the line. Wouldn't mind a read of that thread though...will search for it later.

Right!! Proposed engine mods ;ol;

I was initially after some big power again on this one, first by sticking the GT30 back on and then when funds allow I wanted to go up a few sizes to a Holset Super HX40 and try get some real BIG numbers!!! ...but after some thought I've binned that idea and will be going for a TD04 Hybrid instead from SaabFlight, so after briefly emailing them for info I should see around 340bhp on the B204...might squeeze a tad more with the tubular & later the cams? Don't know..we'll see, not really bothered about BHP figures anymore tbh. If its anything like my old GT28RS (and I think its even better from what I've read) then it should be a very quick & responsive car. Not that fussed about 100+mph performance anymore either! or trying to get a 500+bhp, 60-100 in 3.5 secs car! As in reality I found the laggy turbo used to catch me out below 60 a lot unless I stayed in 2nd. It doesn't seem the right car for that, so just want it a nice fast sub 100mph car instead.

This won't be for a while yet though, aiming to get it all done after the summer but realistically looking at October/early November as its a few quid!!

Shouldn't cost the earth though as I'll be re-using what I can off the 9k and have sold most of the uprated parts and have a couple more things to sell next week when I collect the bits, so will work out whats definitely staying/going.

Off the top of my head I'll be re-using:

Tubular Manifold
T7 Moded T5 ECU
T7 APC with pipes
3 Bar Map Sensor
Walbro Fuel Pump
630cc Injectors (getting cleaned/flow checked before fitting this time) :roll:
Magnaflow Race CAT
Chinese 450x300x76mm Intercooler
Any 3" Pipework that can be used again!
Abbott Racing 234 Stage 1 Cams (fitting in 2013)
Upper Engine Mount (will be modified for the 9-3)
Red DI Pack (good one- keeping as a spare)
Forge Competition DV
Forge Actuator
ITG 99mm Filter (hope it fits!!)

Will need:

TD04-15g off a 9k Aero (coming this week & then needs to be 'hybridised') :cheesy:
3" DP (will be full 3" from turbo, not 2.5">3" for a little extra oomph)
3" Exhaust with a Race Cat & De-cat on V-bands for easy swap over
Different plugs...probably go for BCR8ES again
Viggen Clutch
Viggen Master Cylinder
Decent Brake Pads (Either Yellow Stuff R or DS3000's...had yellow stuff R on my 9k but never been that impressed with them:confused:)

The DP will have to be custom built around the tubular as it shifts the turbo a few cm's to the right...not sure if that'll help or ruin the spool up though as the exhaust side is opposite on the 9k so on that one the bend was further away from the turbo outlet...not even sure if it'll still fit!!

Might also get further down the line:

3" intake pipe
Larger Delivery Pipe

50/50 on those two items....not sure its really needed until your well over 400bhp...

I think thats about it on the engine side, will just get a Stage 1 map for it next week as its WAY WAY slow!! (but in a nice way!) Then keep it at this power level until after the summer and then drop the car down the garage and go from stage 1 to stage 6/7 (whatever it'll be??) in one go ;ol; Works out miles cheaper than going back through the stages like I did on the 9k!! (thousands spent there) :cry: :roll:
 
#16 ·
Best update this!

Got on with a few jobs last week. Most important job was to Renovo the roof. No before after pics of this but I only had a chance to do one coat and thats made a nice difference, will get a 2nd coat on there next time I'm home.

Also cracked on with the audio side of things. The Focal Sub turned up, just needs an enclosure built now:





Onto the sound deadening. Had a look at Dynamat but its way to expensive!! So went with all Silent Coat products instead which get really good reviews.

This is the thinner stuff, 2mm damping mat, should have enough to do most of the doors and boot. Might need doubling up on some areas but have something else for that.



This is the Multilayer Extra Door Kit, 4mm thick that's also got a composite-bitumen layer in the middle so it's a fair bit stronger (packs are heavy!!) Used this to double up on the larger holes and also directly behind the speakers:



And finally some Sound Absorber 15 which is a egg boxed shaped foam and this will go directly behind the speakers and stuck on top of the 4mm stuff.

 
#17 ·
That's the drivers door done, 2.5 hours but pretty easy to do as long as you watch the sharp edges!

Pulled the card off and found this;





Previous owner said the guy before him had a bit of work done to the music side which turned out to be an all Clarion Component & Co-axial system.
 
#19 ·
Then onto the inner skin, the last guy covered up the largest hole with some thin foam deadening but it wasn't fully stuck on anymore (see 1st pic) ripped that our and covered it with the 2mm stuff. Had to make sure the boot release could still be fed through so stuck a bit of deadening the other side to stop it sticking! Same deal with the door release...all I need is that to stick!!





All done :D First attempt...not a pro job but pretty happy with it!

 
#20 ·
I was wondering about the upper "poly" brace that was attached to the head and tied into the strut tower brace.

1. What years/models were those used on?

2. One end was bolted to the head, what did the other end go to?


Also, what exactly are you hybridizing on the TD04? Are you just putting a larger exhaust turbine wheel on, or are you somehow altering the compressor side?
 
#21 ·
The mount is off my old 9k mate. Not really 100% on how it goes on yet but looks like its just bolted onto the strut brace and positioned right against the head to stop it moving.

TD04- I'll probably go with Saabflight for this, they use gt28rs internals and it's meant to be a really good unit, they recon 380bhp on the 2.3 and 340 on the 2.0 Not really sure how much mine will make though as I'm adding my old cams & tubular...will be happy with 350.
 
#22 ·
I noticed a very slight increase in SQ with the doors deadened but nothing major....bit dissapointed tbh but I still had the Focal's to fit. So I collected these the next day;

Focal 165KP 6.5" for the fronts






Tweeters are TN52 so meant to be a little better and not as harsh as the others.


Crossovers...heavy things!! No idea how you set these up, ones missing a push button but still works


 
#23 ·
And the rears;

Focal 5.25" for the rear[/b]





Magnets are huge for a small speaker!!!


TN46 Tweeters...will suck it & see with these, still got my old Infinity & Alpines upstairs if these are too harsh



Crossovers are battered!! Ones held together with tape and the others rattling so somethings broken :wall:
Luckily the guy I bought the 6.5's from gave me these foc so I'm hoping I can use them instead?

 
#24 ·
Onto the Passenger Door

Concentrated a bit more on the passenger door, tbh I didnt find much difference between both doors, one sounded slightly better but nothing major.

Whipped the card off and this ones also had a bit of dynamat treatment, same thing with the large foam part, was loose at the bottom. Won't explain all the pics but basically covered a bit more of the outer skin this time with the 2mm stuff, then same as before behind speakers with 2mm, followed by the thicker & stronger 4mm multilayer sheet and then the foam sound absorber on top.

Inner skin was covered again with 2mm, but this time I stuck the 4mm on top again to give it more strength (could see it moving slightly when the music was up high) that worked a treat and it's very sturdy now.
Fitted the Focals...Miles better!! These Focal's are worth every penny, the passenger side woofer has a slight problem at low volume but its only noticeable when the doors open, doors closed its fine and when the volume's cranked up they really are a world apart from the Clarions.









 
#25 ·




Doubling up the thickness, 4mm stuff is 5 layered so a fair bit more heavy duty...





Drivers door...just added more 4mm to it and that's really improved things!!



Definitely well worth the effort, music sounds much more bassy and really clear. Well happy with it. After a few days driving the difference in SQ between now and before is evident. For a few hours work I think its a must to get the best out of your system.

Still a lot more to do though ;ol;
 
#26 ·
Rears

After figuring out how to get the rear cards off without damaging anything they came out pretty easy, first side took ages but the other was off in 5 mins! All in was around 2 hours as I didn't want to break anything!

No pics of them fitted but I'll be getting them back out next month to rewire them to the new crossovers and figure out a place for the tweeters to live. Suppose they could go where the two small lights are now as they're not working anyway...but will a tweeter 6" from my right ear be annoying!!

Maybe a pair of decent Focal 5.25" coaxials would be better? I know guys say components for the front but do they usually do the rears too? I'll keep an eye out for a decent pair of co-axials just in case!

Didn't bother sound deadening today, just wanted to fit them and make sure they work as I'm away for a few weeks & can't be doing with yet another PayPal fiasco with faulty speakers and gone over the time limit for a refund! The sound ok but not fantastic, maybe because there's no tweeter fitted yet? Can def tell they're going to be better than the Clarions though, sound a lot clearer at high volume and don't distort. Not much room to deaden there unless I get the clear plastic covers off and do the outer skin....job for next leave, will take a good few hours but if the fronts are anything to go by it'll be well worth the effort.




These Focal's are also a fair bit deeper than the Clarions (magnets are huge!!) so can't see me getting a lot of deadening behind them...defo cant see the foam stuff fitting! Tried with the thicker 4mm stuff but couldn't fit the speaker back in...so probably just deaden the outer skin and cover the inner as best I can.

Old Clarions....probably stick these in the missis car with my old Alpine amp!

 
#27 ·
Next job is basically deaden the rears, then deaden the boot and any place that's going to rattle with the sub going off!! Then the part I've been dreading...re-wire with fresh speaker cables throughout :(

Shouldn't bee too bad as both sets of crossovers will be in the boot. Reason for that is if I decide to run them active off the amp its easy to just remove them from the crossovers and connect straight up to the amp.

Speaker & power cables

Ordered some 2.5mm ebay stuff and it looks really good quality wire. So ordered some thicker 6mm of the same flavour for the sub(s) and not sure if I could also use the 6mm for the mids as I've read the thicker cable can muddy the sound?? Not sure how it'll be compared to the old 1.5mm blue cable I used in the 9k :?

New cable





Old stuff from the 9k



Comparison between the three


Also picked this up for a couple quid. Had a 'mare last time trying to hold 2 wires, solder and the bloody iron :wall: So this should come in pretty handy

 
#28 ·
Also need to decide on what to use for the power cable? I used some blue 4AWG cable from the battery into a power block then out of that was the red 8AWG cable to the amps in the last car. Problem now is there's very little 8AWG left over! So was thinking of either running a 0AWG from the battery to a power block then 4AWG to each amp....or just get another 4AWG cable in red (so I don't get confused with 2 blue ones at the **** end of the car!!) and run 2x 4AWG cables direct from the battery to each amp fused each end. Not sure what will be the easiest to run through the car here... 0AWG is pretty thick!! But so are 2x 4AWG cables..

Old 4AWG Power cable with fuse holder



Old 8AWG cable



Earth cable I've read needs to be the same thickness or thicker than the power cable? Had some 2AWG in the 9k than went into a earth block then what I think is 10AWG back out and into the amps. Not sure if that'll be ok here or best to use the 2AWG again with the earth block and 4AWG into the amps?

2AWG earth with earth block & 10AWG coming out



10AWG earth cable



Power & Earth cables size comparison....0AWG must be real thick!!
 
#29 ·
Onto the amps :cool:

Was torn between DLS, Audison and Genesis amps here. I kept missing out on the Genesis ones and the 2 Audison LRx amps I fancied ended before I could bid on them :roll: So when these pair of DLS amps came up I made sure I got them!

Ones a DLS Ultimate A2 2 channel and the others a DLS Ultimate A7 5 channel. Both meant to be very good and used in various competitions..that'll do me then!!

Still no idea on the best way to fit these as the A7 is pretty long at 23.8 inches!!! The A2 is a lot smaller at just under 10.5 inches. Still need to figure out where the subs going, not a lot of room in the vert's boot and I need to keep it a little bit practical. Bought a load of MDF & couple lengths of wood to make a false floor and sub enclosure...any ideas/pics of the best way to do this? Will probably just make a removable sub box instead of integrating it into the boot build. Most important thing is access to the amps controls...and keeping them safe as they cost a small fortune :eek:

DLS A2

http://dls.se/en/car/prod.html?produkt=en_107

DLS A7

http://dls.se/en/car/prod.html?produkt=en_110

Will run the fronts bridged off the A7 with the supplied crossovers and the sub will run off the A7' dedicated sub channel. Rears will run off the A2. Once I've got the hang of the audio side I'll then run the fronts active off the A7 to get the best out of them.

Lots to do next month, will probably just screw the amps down to some spare MDF for now until I've figured out the best way to instal everything. Sound deadening & rewiring should take a couple days....wood work will take a while as I'm crap at DIY :roll:
 
#30 ·
Thats the audio side pretty much good to go ;ol;

Suspension I've put a bit on hold ref the springs/dampers till next month. Looking at it I'll probably keep the Abbott springs on there but definitely swap the dampers for Bilsteins. Not sure if B8 will be too hard though? Also still need to get a few bushes from Neos.

I've had a couple things turn up in the post.
First was the PFS steering rack clamp:

PFS Steering Rack Clamp


Then the Abbott bearing kit turned up:

Abbott Shperical Bearing Kit


Still can't believe how much these things cost...hope its worth it!

Not sure if my 6 point subframe brace is here yet as Im away but a friend (Dr Ken ;)) has sold me his old Powerflex TCA bushes and a brand new set of Traction control arms. So will fit these 5 things next time I'm home and if I'm right will have my own little/cheaper version of the Abbott VRK :lol:

Collected the parts off the 9k last week. Just need to decide on a turbo now then get a 3" DP, fit the Viggen clutch and go straight to stage 5/6 (what ever it is with cams & tubular?) torn between a Hybrid TD04 or GT3071R 0.64 ....just thinking with the extra weight of the audio side a GT30 will be better as I'll have the extra 70/80bhp on tap? Have read that the 0.64 isn't that laggy either so could be the winner.
 
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