There's generally 3 pillars. A, B and C. A being towards the front (windscreen pillars), B being the middle (just behind the rear edge of the front doors), C at the back, forms the rear screen pillars on Saloons.
Noone knows the vac lines becuase every car is different! It's kind of like the holy grail of the Saab world - getting the vac lines in the right order!
I'm pretty sure they also drain water from the sunroof area. I was washing out the gaps between the sliding sunroom pannel and the roof, and a lot of dirt and junk came out the vents.
Boy, this is a question that I've seen several times on the board, try searching for 'turbo conversion' or something like that for more info, but, generally, the conversion requires:
1. Turbo
2. ECU from a turbo.
3. Turbo manifold and exhaust stuff.
4. Lube modifications (the turbo needs oil, y'know)
5. A turbo wiring harness for the controls, etc.
6. Engine mods as required for the higher compression
7. APC or passive blowoff valve
Generally, this is thought to be much too difficult to make it worth your while. Even people with a turbo donor car generally find it a real pain just to swap a turbo engine into a N/A car from what I gather.
For me, if you're going to go and put a turbo drivetrain into a non-turbo car, you might as well go all the way and put it into an old 99 and turn it into a fire-breathing monster. People have stuffed 16 valve engines in there from what I can see, but with the 99 you'd have a lighter car to push with all that power. My experience with the 900's was that the car kept getting heavier and heavier and needed the 16v to push all that extra weight around (and all that extra stuff in the engine compartment).
Though there is something to be said about 79/80 900 turbos, which have a certain charm to them and soooo much extra space in the engine bay it's silly.
It's really not terribly difficult. Your major problem is an APC Turbo motor runs a very high compression for a turbo. The N/A motor runs an even higher compression.
So the best way is to find a turbo, and take the whole drivetrain out into a N/A car, then put in the APC wires and the engine brainbox. Might as well swap the turbo gauges, suspension and the black trim while you're at it. Good if you have a wrecked turbo, or one that is just too rusty to save, and a natural aspirated car with a great body but lame mechanicals.
Why would 'performance' modifications many times include moving the battery into the trunk on a C900? Is it heat? Additional room in the engine bay? Weight redistribution? I'm at a loss to explain why it would be worth the trouble.
Bigger down pipe from the turbo to the cat. the orignal one is small and kinked.
--Jeremy
eggsngrits said:
OK -- I have one.
Why would 'performance' modifications many times include moving the battery into the trunk on a C900? Is it heat? Additional room in the engine bay? Weight redistribution? I'm at a loss to explain why it would be worth the trouble.
When I slam on the gas peddle I get high boost and then it recoils, this all happens quite quickly. However if I apply pressure steadily but without haste I get even higher boost and it holds longer before recoil.
Is this normal. It seems to me that this would mean everything is working properly but it would be cool to floor it and have it boost high for a long time before or without recoil.
any thoughts??
Thanks, Evan
space is needed for a larger downpipe and you don't want to melt a bat.
so these two seem too be the right reasons if you ask me. it's all about upgrading downpipes.
When I slam on the gas peddle I get high boost and then it recoils, this all happens quite quickly. However if I apply pressure steadily but without haste I get even higher boost and it holds longer before recoil.
Is this normal. It seems to me that this would mean everything is working properly but it would be cool to floor it and have it boost high for a long time before or without recoil.
any thoughts??
Thanks, Evan
IIRC, the APC control has two adjustable settings -- one for the rise rate of the turbo boost, one for the maximum boost allowed. When you stomp the pedal, you exceed the rise rate setting, but if you smoothly apply the power, the APC doesn't kick in until the maximum setting is reached. I think that you can fiddle with this to make the stomp work.
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