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Grrrr

1K views 4 replies 4 participants last post by  mooreb 
#1 ·
ok here's the problem, I have no spark, and the fuel pump doesn't work what could possibly be wrong... I already replaced the ingnition coil and tested the fuel pump it still works just no power to it please help me...
85 SPG
 
#2 ·
Hello,

When you say there is no spark, do you mean the car just won't start, or have you actually taken out a spark plug with the wire attached, grounded it and tried to start the car and not seen an arc?

As for the lack of spark:

Make sure the hall-effect sensor plug is attached correctly and isn't corroded (It is the plug on the side of the distributor, also check the wiring to it.) Make sure the ignition control unit plug is on there good (It's in the right fender next to the APC box) Make sure the ignition spark aplifier relay is good in your fuse box. Check the wiring to the coil from the ignition control unit and test for 12V with the ignition on. If this all tests good, your hall-effect sensor, ignition control unit or the entire ECU may need to be relaced.

As for the fuel pump:

Check the fuel pump fuse in the fuse box. Check the 4-wire connector inside the right front fender area by the door hinge mechanism. (Look to see that it is holding together and has clean contact. This is the wiring from the fuel pump relay to the fuel pump.)

I hope this helps.

-Rob
 
#4 ·
well I'm still having the problem... I know the reason for the fuel pump not working is beacuse there is no spark... I've already replaced the Distributor and the ignition coil.. Then I thought maybe it was the ground to the coil so I tried to make a new one and nothing, but when I use the (-) that is already on the coil and make a new ground the fuel pump turns on but there still is no spark so I'm thinking the making the new ground just tells the computer that it's making a spark... what could the problem Be
it's an 85 SPG 16v
 
#5 ·
Earthing or grounding out the ignition Negative terminal of the coil is the job of the electronic control module.

Do not disconnect any wires for the following tests, probe into the back of the plugs and terminals with a multimeter.

To check if the electronic module and distributor are working, the coil negative wire should be measured to earth with a volt meter or frequency meter. You should get a pulsing voltage when cranking.
(Note when you crank the battery voltage drops normally to about 9 to 10.5 volts don’t confuse this with a pulse.)

If your negative terminal pulses when cranking you should get a spark if not your coil is faulty.

If you don’t get a pulse. Check for the pulse at the ignition module end of the neg wire.
If no pulse at the ign module end then check for a pulse at 0 (switch) wire on the distributor plug.

The distributor has three wires Positive, Negative (to make the Hall Effect sensor run) and a connection in the centre labelled 0(zero). The zero wire is the switch wire for the Ignition module. If the Zero wire pulses then the distributor should be OK. No pulse at the distributor means you are either not providing positive (not always 12 volts), or the negative wire is not earthed, or the switch wire is not making contact in the plug OR the Hall Effect chip is faulty in the distributor.
regards mooreb
 
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