Possible solution for leaking Convertible Top hydraulic cylinder seals - Page 3 - SaabCentral Forums
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NG900 & OG9-3 Workshop NG900 (1994 to 1998) & OG9-3 (1999-2002) & '03 Convertible Technical Forum

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  #41  
Old 15th May 2011
Shandy Shandy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwebeq View Post
Hi my convertible cover on my 2000 93 wont open back enough to let the top pass it clearly. I got to bring it back and we got to be 2 person to operate it. Any solutions?



Look at this first! This did not work for me!!! What did work was an inspection of the rubber hinge stops at the back of the top basket. Both the rubber stops were sagging and one was damaged as a result of contact with the hinge and prevented the top from completely opening. I removed both...no more bump and the hinges don't come close to hitting anything when fully open.
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  #42  
Old 24th May 2011
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Tried lurklad's fix of 5:1 fluid to lucas. Still noticing a small leak but will refill this weekend and see what happens.

BTW found the hydraulic fluid at NAPA. CHF S11 is the exact same fluid as the GM/Saab branded. Much cheaper too - 1 liter of CHF S11 for $20 as opposed to .5 liter for $40+.
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  #43  
Old 24th May 2011
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Default Thanks Shandy

Yesthank you.I did look at the flyer you ask me to look at first. It was the shear pin who was broken! I even bring it to my dealer.Thank you again.

BUTTT... i got another problem.My cover as gain some power and i think it lift up to is maximum. But When the top deploy the very front tip of the top is scraching it of. And when its going down it does it again to the cover.Is it a way to adjust the top to let flow cleanely?

Thanks
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  #44  
Old 25th May 2011
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Originally Posted by kwebeq View Post
BUTTT... i got another problem.My cover as gain some power and i think it lift up to is maximum. But When the top deploy the very front tip of the top is scraching it of. And when its going down it does it again to the cover.Is it a way to adjust the top to let flow cleanely?

Thanks
I'm having the same problem. I usually throw a towel over the edge of the top to keep it from tapping. I only need the cover to go back about 1/2 and inch more to make it past cleanly.
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  #45  
Old 25th May 2011
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Default Hinge stops!

I'm just saying.....take a look at your tonneau hinge stops...remove them and just see if it makes a difference...if not put them back on. I did the shear pin thing and it did not work....removing hinge stops did....it gave me that 1/2 inch I needed.
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  #46  
Old 27th May 2011
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Default Shandy is the man

Thank you Shandy for all your tips! I almost resolve all my convertible top problems whit your tips. I did took off the hinge of my cover and it work now perfectly. My top is still stopping in the opening process when it lift from the windshield but compare to what i had for trouble..its nothing. I will wait i while and ad some oil whit the lucas leak stopper later.
Thanks again man.
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  #47  
Old 27th May 2011
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Oh yeah! thanks to all other helpers too!
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  #48  
Old 29th May 2011
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Hi about the shear pin. I guess this pin is there to broke if the pessure is too high . But can we replace it by another pin less expensive? I saw a saab whit another type of pin and they even put a tirap arround it.

Thanks
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  #49  
Old 29th May 2011
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If the shear pin is made from either aluminum or brass, you should be able to buy a piece of metal stock, put it in a drill and use a flat file to turn it's diameter down. Then cut it to length. This is the way I cut pins down for locks when I re-key them... Ron
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  #50  
Old 29th May 2011
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Hi Ron.
Ok. How do you get off the broken shear pin. I will try to alline (is that an english word?) the holes to get it off. But i expect trouble. I will move by hand the tonneau to see if i can do it.

The shear pin is a security or a safety pin right?.
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  #51  
Old 31st May 2011
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Shandy, you're the man. Didn't take the stops out, just turned them 90 degrees and got an extra inch of travel for the cover. No more tapping. Thanks for the tip, I never even noticed those stops in there.
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  #52  
Old 12th June 2011
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Default Year 2000 9-3 se t convertable

Hello all.
Guess what ! my roof is leaking from just one of the many hoses to the pump. When i top it up it does 8 cycles then runs dry let alone 20, will this Lucas trick work for me? It was fine last summer and went to drop the roof yesterday and it stoped working and there's fluid in front of the back wheel.
Thanks all.
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  #53  
Old 18th June 2011
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Default Lucas/Saab mixture didn't do the trick for me

2004 9-3 Arc Convertible*

Adding the mixture worked initially, but then started to leak again. So I decided the thing to do (since the leak both times was onto the front passenger - son #3 the first time and son #2 the second time) - I think I have it pretty confined as to where the leak is occurring. I took off the black metal plate from the bottom front of the convertible top, and the gray "soffit" that is part of the car's interior, exposing the locking mechanism for the front of the convertible top and the lines that run from the front right A pillar (I am no automotive expert; I hope I have the correct nomenclature) to the center of the convertible top. The lines are dry working back from the center top of the windshield toward the passenger door, until reaching just under the cloth that constitutes the inside "ceiling" of the convertible top. I suspect strongly that this is where the leak is located.

However, I am having a heck of a time figuring out how to expose this area of the convertible top to do a visual inspection of the line. There is some sort of black strap that wraps around a hard plastic or metal post that extends down from that part of the roof. When I apply gentle pressure on the fabric, I can get one fastener to loosen its grip, but there is another that is resistant to direct pulling. I tried jimmying this fastener up, down, and sideways without success. I am reluctant to pull too hard for fear of damaging it. If I could get this part of the roof exposed, I think I could see the leak, and make a decision as to whether to try the mixture again, or if I have to replace the line, or do something else.

Any ideas on how to expose this area of the top?

* I mention this because as a newbie to SaabCentral, I don't know if I am in the wrong place or if this is just a variation in models, but the reservoir is not located behind the rear seats, but in the trunk on the passenger side. I removed the molded plastic on the right side of the trunk to expose the reservoir, which is toward the front of the trunk compartment.
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  #54  
Old 22nd August 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by First9-3 View Post
Tried lurklad's fix of 5:1 fluid to lucas. Still noticing a small leak but will refill this weekend and see what happens.

BTW found the hydraulic fluid at NAPA. CHF S11 is the exact same fluid as the GM/Saab branded. Much cheaper too - 1 liter of CHF S11 for $20 as opposed to .5 liter for $40+.
Can someone confirm this is the same fluid???

My Saab dealer says fluid has been on order for a month and they have no idea when it will be in stock??? WTF, I need top down now LOL!
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  #55  
Old 22nd August 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCommissar View Post
Can someone confirm this is the same fluid???

My Saab dealer says fluid has been on order for a month and they have no idea when it will be in stock??? WTF, I need top down now LOL!
It's definitely the right stuff. Been using it all summer.
This stuff.
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  #56  
Old 22nd August 2011
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This is not the same fluid and I believe, it is the recommended power steering fluid.

It's much thinner and i found it causes leaks to increase.

I'm using the hydraulic jack fluid from Advanced Auto but I noticed I'm still having leaks.

But its cheap and I may just keep refilling.
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  #57  
Old 22nd August 2011
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are you using the Lucas hydro fluid booster sealer with that...what about with the PS fluid?
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  #58  
Old 22nd August 2011
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So a little more research and I find here

http://www.jamesglass.org/JGA/1parts...al/cvoilGM.pdf

that the Saab/GM fluid IS Mobil Univis HVI 26 repackaged. This product is a very sophisticated lube...data sheet

http://www.rakaoil.com/pdf/Univis%20HVI.pdf

so I texted a buddy of mine who happens to own part of an Exxon distributorship nearby...he calls me up and says WTF do you need something like that for???! He gives a big LOL at the response "for my convertible top". He says that he does not think I'll need a whole drum for that application...and that since we don't have extreme temperatures here in SC I could probably get away with something a little less viscous...

He's going to try to round me up a sample of that or a similar fluid if that is no longer available...

I'll keep you posted as to how this saga unfolds
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  #59  
Old 22nd August 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCommissar View Post
and that since we don't have extreme temperatures here in SC I could probably get away with something a little less viscous...

He's going to try to round me up a sample of that or a similar fluid if that is no longer available...

I'll keep you posted as to how this saga unfolds
Commish:

Since very few of us open our tops at temps below about 70 degrees, the low temp viscosity is not an issue. The higher temp side might be, although reasonably speaking the fluid likely doesn't get all that hot, even in the Summer, since the pump and cyls are not body panels... but they are mounted inside them, so temps of 110-120 degrees might be reasonable when the pump runs. So, the hot side is where it needs to maintain viscosity. Run that by your buddy for his research.
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  #60  
Old 25th August 2011
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Well, I got a call from my buddy yesterday afternoon...he says how about stop by his shop on my way home so I did. I didn't get any technical info from Billy except that most people are using the "13" because they don't need that high viscosity in bucket trucks and such 'round here, but I am the proud new owner of one five-gallon bucket of Univis HVI 26...He said that should keep my top workin for a while
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