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Question SAAB 9000 engine removel

Hello everyone, My brother just bought a 1996 Saab 9000 (super) CS. He bought it for $400 and it doesn't have a HINT of rust. The body is in showroom condition for a New England car. Anyway the car has a really loud low-end knocking sound making the car sound like a jackhammer. So the motor is basically dead, the car has 160,000 miles and we want a to, put the engine from my dad's 1994 Saab 9000 Aero which has over 300,000 miles but runs SOOOO good. It needs a clutch (the Aero donor) but besides form that it's our only option and will do good for now until we get something else. Maybe i'll even track the progress as the 300,000 mile engine gets used even more. My dad used to own a Rover P6 (a real junk box) and has done every possible repair to the thing. He's owned Saab 9000's since the around 1995 (or so) and can help my brother and I if get a hiccup in the process. I was wondering if you guys could give me feedback on tools, tricks, advice, things like that. Also different guides I could use, feel free to say anything to help me.
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KevinC KevinC is offline
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I've used this guide I got from TSN:

Disconnect the battery, remove the 10mm head bolt and battery hold-down bracket and remove the battery.

IF WITH CRUISE CONTROL: Loosen the (3) 8mm head bolts which hold the cruise control actuator to the backside of the battery box.

Once loose, slide the actuator toward the drivers side of the car to remove it from the battery box and unplug the wiring from the actuator.

Either disconnect the cable from the throttle body cam and remove the actuatory, or the actuator will be removed with the motor. Up to you.

On the backside of the battery box, locate the plastic housing where positive battery cables run to.

Open the plastic housing, remove the pair of 10mm nuts holding the wires in place, and remove the wires. Reinstall the nuts so you don't lose them.

Remove the T25 torx screw which is holding the positive battery cable grommet to the battery box, and remove the positive cable mount from the box.

Lift the large front relay box upward to free it from its mount on the front of the battery box and lay it aside.

Remove the (4) 13mm head bolts which hold the battery box to the drivers side "inner fender", and remove the battery box.

Loosen hose clamps on the plastic air intake tube attached to the turbo inlet, and unclip the latches which hold the intake tube to the air box.

Pull upward on the coolant hose which sticks into the air intake tube a few inches from the turbo, and remove it from the tube.

IF FPT CAR: Remove 3 hoses going from the BPC solenoid to the air intake tube, turbo compressor housing, and wastegate actuator.
Remove the air intake tube.

Loosen hose clamps on the throttle body intake elbow, and on the outlet of the intercooler. Unplug vacuum line from the BPV (blow off valve)

Unplug the intake air temperature sensor, and remove the large aluminum intake tube.

Using a 19mm wrench, socket, breaker bar, etc., locate the bolt on the tensioner assembly pulley and push toward the rear of the car once on the bolt. The tensioner assembly will compress, backing off pressure on the serpentine belt.

Once you have enough slack, slip the belt off a pulley.

Remove the 13mm head bolt on the upper motor mount; vertical bolt on the motor mount located on the rear passengers side of the motor.

Loosen the horizontal nut & bolt on the upper motor mount; the mount is bolted to the rear of the head. Once loose, remove the horizontal motor mount.

Remove the (3) 13mm head bolts which hold the sheetmetal motor mount bracket to the inside of the passengers side strut tower. Remove the bracket.

Unplug the vacuum line going to the MAP sensor. Locate, and unscrew the (2) 11mm vacuum nipples on the passengers rear side of the intake manifold.

Gain access to, and loosen both CV shaft nuts using a 32mm socket.

Jack up the front of the car, and remove both front wheels.

Remove the (2) bolts which hold the bottom of the front strut to the spindle of the car; 17mm head bolt and 18mm nut.

Release the brake hose and grommet from the "U" shaped cradle they mount to on the lower portion of the strut.

Pound the CV shafts back through the wheel bearing / spindle assembly. Best to leave the nut still on the shaft so you don't mess up the threads.

Use a screwdriver, or pliers pry on, and break / cut the CV boot clamp on the inner driver.

Once the clamp is removed, reach in and pry the boot off the driver by getting your fingers under the boot lip and breaking the suction.

Remove both CV shafts.

Remove the 8mm head nuts holding the passengers side wheelwell trim in place (6 or 7 of them), and remove the trim.

Remove the 10mm head bolts holding the plastic inner fender lining in place. Several on the sides, several down under as well.

Leave the (2) bolts which hold the "rearward" half of the fender lining to the rocker panel trim. The "rearward" half can stay.

Remove the front half of the passengers fenderwell lining.

Grab one edge of the rubber weatherstrip which goes across the front of the bulkhead / fake firewall, and lift it up; remove the strip.

Unplug the washer fluid hose which feeds the windshield wipers.

Remove the 8mm head screws, and the single centrally-located T20 torx screw from the front bulkhead cover, right in front of the windshield.

Remove the bulkhead cover, and at the same time, unplug the washer fluid line from the underside of the fitting in the bulkhead.

Remove the (2) 8mm head screws from the cloth covered "fake firewall" where all the wiring passes through. One 8mm screw per side.

Lift up on the fake firewall once the screws are removed, and loosen the fake firewall.

Follow the large loom of wiring through the fake firewall, to a large electrical connector held in place with (1) 8mm head screw. Remove the screw.

Unhook the large electrical connector by actuating a lock / unlock arm on the connector; it may be zip-tied in place. Cut the zip tie and disconnect.

Locate the ECU; a silver box on the drivers side of the bulkhead with a ground strap running to a 10mm bolt. ECU is held in place with a metal bracket.

"Bend" back the left and right arms of the bracket to allow the ECU to slide upward. Disconnect the large connector from the ECU in the same manner.

Once both plugs are disconnected, the entire wiring harness, and fake firewall will be free to remove with the motor; flop them up over the valve cover.

From the passengers side wheelwell, locate and remove the lower alternator mounting bolt; it is an 8mm allen head socket, or allen wrench.

Once removed, use an 8mm allen wrench to loosen the top alternator mounting bolt; this can be done from the top, from inside the wheelwell, or both.

The top bolt will not come "out". It only needs to be loosened for the alternator to be removed. Loosen it all the way, the use a prybary to remove the alternator from its two mounting points.

Remove the 13mm head nut holding the positive battery cable to the alternator, and the 8mm nut holding the +12V field wire to the alternator.

Leave the alternator down inside the "mess" and remove the (4) 13mm head bolts holding the upper motor mount to the block.

Remove the mount.

Once the mount is removed, the alternator will come upward in between the intake manifold, passengers strut tower and firewall.

From inside the wheelwell, locate and remove the (4) 13mm head bolts holding the power steering pump / idler pulley assembly to the back of the block.

Locate and remove the (2) lower 13mm head bolts which hold the passengers side inner driver / lower motor mount assembly to the back of the block.

These two bolts also hold a sheet metal bracket in place which holds electrical plugs for the front and rear O2 sensors (IF 1996+).

At the very bottom of the rearward lower motor mount is a 16mm head bolt, mounted vertically which bolts the large bracket to the actual motor mount.

Remove this 16mm head bolt, as well as an identical 16mm head bolt on the front lower motor mount, located directly under the water pump.

From the top of the engine, locate and loosen the (3) 13mm head bolts holding the A/C compressor to the bracket on the front of the block.

Once the compressor is loose, you can rotate it to fully remove the bolts. It twists upward out of the way, for the remainder of the job.

IF TURBO: Locate and remove the (3) 13mm nuts holding the exhaust downpipe to the outlet of the turbo. Torches / heat may be required.
Loosen and completely unscrew the front O2 sensor from the downpipe. Twisting the wiring, and torches / heat may be required.

From under the car, remove the two nuts which hold the flexpipe studs to the rear of the downpipe / catalytic converter.

Locate, and remove the (2) 13mm head bolts from the downpipe / catalytic converter bracket to the back of the block. Sometimes it is easier to remove these bolts, then bend the bracket rearward to clear the passengers side intermediate shaft. The bolt which mounts the bracket to the exhaust is generally very rusty.

IF 1996+: Unplug the rear O2 sensor from its plug, and remove the downpipe / catalytic coverter.

Remove the 13mm head bolt holding the negative battery cable, from the lower, drivers side of the transmission.

Loosen the 16mm nut from the lower transmission mount bolt. Once loose, use a prybar to slide the bolt over 1/2" to clear when everything is lifted upward.

FOR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
Remove the (2) 19mm head banjo bolts holding the transmission cooler lines to the transmission. Reinstall the banjos once removed, and do not lose copper gaskets. Drain lines.

Remove the small sheetmetal retainer clip from the shift lever on the rear of the transmission, and slide the shift cable off the lever. Reinstall the clip so you don't lose it.

Remove the shift cable rubber grommet from its U-shaped mount, approx 8" from the shift lever on the transmission. It is press fit and slides right out just like the brake hose on the lower strut.

Unplug the connector for the VSS (vehicle speed sensor), a vertical cylinder on the rear lower portion of the transmission.

FOR MANUAL TRANSMISSION
Locate the shifter coupler on the rear portion of the transmission, which ties together a shaft entering the transmission, and a shaft coming from the shifter.

Locate a horizontal pin which locks the shaft from the shifter, to the shifter coupler body. It has a 10mm nut on one end.

Loosen the nut until it is at the end of the threads.

Use a hammer to hit the nut and drive the tapered pin backward. Once loose remove the pin.

From inside the car, put the car into 3rd gear, then with a quick powershifting motion, slam it into 4th. This action should separate the shaft from the coupler.

Disconnect the hydraulic line going to the clutch slave cylinder at the connection on top of the transmission.

Unplug the wire for the reverse switch on the backside of the transmission.

Remove the 17mm head banjo bolt which mounts the fuel line to the top of the fuel rail. Reinstall the banjo with its copper gaskets.

Locate, and disconnect the fuel line from the barbed bottom of the fuel pressure regulator, located on the passengers side of the fuel rail.

Locate, and remove the fuel vapor line located on the backside of the intake manifold. It is held with a plastic retainer. Depress the ears of the retainer and pull backward to release the line from the retainer.

Locate the (3) 7mm screws which hold the engine oil cooler to the side of the radiator. (1) is located vertically on top, (2) are horizontally on the bottom.

Remove the top screw, loosen the two bottom screws and pull upward to release the engine oil cooler.

Remove hose clamps for upper and lower radiator hoses, for the water pump -to- reservoir hose, and for the two heater hoses (located on drivers side of block). Disconnect all the hoses, and drain the coolant. Wedge the heater core hoses up around the brake fluid reservoir to keep them out of the way.

Unplug the coolant level sensor from the bottom of the reservoir, and remove the reservoir from the passengers side inner fender area.

Lift the power steering reservoir up to remove it from its bracket, and locate it behind the intake so it will slide past when the motor is lifted.

Remove the hose clamp on the turbo outlet boot, and disconnect the boot from the turbo.

Attach a chain between the lift eye on the passengers front of the block, and lift eye on the drivers rear of the block.

With an engine lift, pick upward to remove the whole engine / transmission assembly as one unit. The hood can stay in place, with the hood struts still mounted.

On removal, pay attention to the A/C compressor, engine oil cooler, various electrical connections, the power steering lines and reservoir, and on a manual transmission, be especially careful that you don't catch the shift coupler on the underside of the brake master cylinder and damage the brake lines.

What should come out in one large clump is the motor, transmission, engine oil cooler, cruise control brain, and wiring harness. You CAN remove the cruise control brain, but it is an extra step.

GOOD LUCK!!!!!

__________________________________________________ _

Excellent and detailed description. I have a few dissenting opinions..

1. You do not need to touch the 32 mm axle nut. Once the two bolts between the strut and the steering knuckle are removed, you can pull the drive shaft apart from the inner drive by loosening the boot clamp.

2. I thought removing the tapered pin on the shift coupler is too much trouble. You will almost always get bogged down removing it in car. Actually there is no need to touch it. For the old style coupler there is certainly no need. For the new style coupler I always disconnect the shift rod by loosening the collar bolt so I do not touch the tapered pin. I thought doing a shifter alignment after install is much easier.

3. I thought it unnecessary to remove the alternator. I always just remove the two bolts between the power steering pump and the bracket. As the drive train is lifted I just pry the PS pump away from the bracket so I lift the alternator together with the drive train.


I've never bothered to just pry the CV's out of the inner drivers while leaving them bolted through the spindle. I don't see why you couldn't.

Yeah, the tapered pin and shift coupler, there are 50 ways to do it depending on what style you have and where you'd prefer to take it apart. I was more aiming at a general "you need to mess with the shift coupler somehow." reminder. Thanks for the details.

I've also never bothered to try and remove the PS pump from its bracket, and leave the bracket with the alternator. I think I tried to remove one way back and it was all rusted and boogered up, so I just pulled the 4 bols and the alternator.

Nice going Adam. Every time I pull a FWD engine/tranny my alignment ends up hilariously altered because of all the Front member arms that have to be removed and rebolted later. Do you know how to prevent this?

The only thing adjustable in the front suspension on the 9k is the toe. So if you do not touch the tie-rod end nothing will be affected. And you do not need to touch it pulling the drive train. Even if you are replacing the tie-rod ends you can avoid messing up the toe by carefully marking the thread engagement.
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When I rebuilt the motor in my aero last summer, I removed the bonnet and lifted the motor and gearbox out the top as one using a cam strap at the lift points on the cylinder head. Only issues i remember on removal were the taper pin on the shifter coupler and nearly forgetting to remove the oil cooler from the radiator housing. Otherwise its pretty easy and straightforward.



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Suggestion: You could pull the oil pan on the Knocking motor and see just how bad the damage is ??
Might be fixable 'in the car'... or not. Not too big an effort to have a look tho.
If the crank journals are OK and it's just the bearing shells.. it would be possible to roll in fresh ones.
But then one wonders what level of oil starvation led to the problem in the first place
300K miles is getting up there, wearout wise... Saab lore aside.
Ain't old cars Great?
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Yeah, we are going to remove the oil pan and look. The top of the engine is mint. I don't understand how this happened
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinC View Post
I've used this guide I got from TSN:

Disconnect the battery, remove the 10mm head bolt and battery hold-down bracket and remove the battery.

IF WITH CRUISE CONTROL: Loosen the (3) 8mm head bolts which hold the cruise control actuator to the backside of the battery box.

Once loose, slide the actuator toward the drivers side of the car to remove it from the battery box and unplug the wiring from the actuator.

Either disconnect the cable from the throttle body cam and remove the actuatory, or the actuator will be removed with the motor. Up to you.

On the backside of the battery box, locate the plastic housing where positive battery cables run to.

Open the plastic housing, remove the pair of 10mm nuts holding the wires in place, and remove the wires. Reinstall the nuts so you don't lose them.

Remove the T25 torx screw which is holding the positive battery cable grommet to the battery box, and remove the positive cable mount from the box.

Lift the large front relay box upward to free it from its mount on the front of the battery box and lay it aside.

Remove the (4) 13mm head bolts which hold the battery box to the drivers side "inner fender", and remove the battery box.

Loosen hose clamps on the plastic air intake tube attached to the turbo inlet, and unclip the latches which hold the intake tube to the air box.

Pull upward on the coolant hose which sticks into the air intake tube a few inches from the turbo, and remove it from the tube.

IF FPT CAR: Remove 3 hoses going from the BPC solenoid to the air intake tube, turbo compressor housing, and wastegate actuator.
Remove the air intake tube.

Loosen hose clamps on the throttle body intake elbow, and on the outlet of the intercooler. Unplug vacuum line from the BPV (blow off valve)

Unplug the intake air temperature sensor, and remove the large aluminum intake tube.

Using a 19mm wrench, socket, breaker bar, etc., locate the bolt on the tensioner assembly pulley and push toward the rear of the car once on the bolt. The tensioner assembly will compress, backing off pressure on the serpentine belt.

Once you have enough slack, slip the belt off a pulley.

Remove the 13mm head bolt on the upper motor mount; vertical bolt on the motor mount located on the rear passengers side of the motor.

Loosen the horizontal nut & bolt on the upper motor mount; the mount is bolted to the rear of the head. Once loose, remove the horizontal motor mount.

Remove the (3) 13mm head bolts which hold the sheetmetal motor mount bracket to the inside of the passengers side strut tower. Remove the bracket.

Unplug the vacuum line going to the MAP sensor. Locate, and unscrew the (2) 11mm vacuum nipples on the passengers rear side of the intake manifold.

Gain access to, and loosen both CV shaft nuts using a 32mm socket.

Jack up the front of the car, and remove both front wheels.

Remove the (2) bolts which hold the bottom of the front strut to the spindle of the car; 17mm head bolt and 18mm nut.

Release the brake hose and grommet from the "U" shaped cradle they mount to on the lower portion of the strut.

Pound the CV shafts back through the wheel bearing / spindle assembly. Best to leave the nut still on the shaft so you don't mess up the threads.

Use a screwdriver, or pliers pry on, and break / cut the CV boot clamp on the inner driver.

Once the clamp is removed, reach in and pry the boot off the driver by getting your fingers under the boot lip and breaking the suction.

Remove both CV shafts.

Remove the 8mm head nuts holding the passengers side wheelwell trim in place (6 or 7 of them), and remove the trim.

Remove the 10mm head bolts holding the plastic inner fender lining in place. Several on the sides, several down under as well.

Leave the (2) bolts which hold the "rearward" half of the fender lining to the rocker panel trim. The "rearward" half can stay.

Remove the front half of the passengers fenderwell lining.

Grab one edge of the rubber weatherstrip which goes across the front of the bulkhead / fake firewall, and lift it up; remove the strip.

Unplug the washer fluid hose which feeds the windshield wipers.

Remove the 8mm head screws, and the single centrally-located T20 torx screw from the front bulkhead cover, right in front of the windshield.

Remove the bulkhead cover, and at the same time, unplug the washer fluid line from the underside of the fitting in the bulkhead.

Remove the (2) 8mm head screws from the cloth covered "fake firewall" where all the wiring passes through. One 8mm screw per side.

Lift up on the fake firewall once the screws are removed, and loosen the fake firewall.

Follow the large loom of wiring through the fake firewall, to a large electrical connector held in place with (1) 8mm head screw. Remove the screw.

Unhook the large electrical connector by actuating a lock / unlock arm on the connector; it may be zip-tied in place. Cut the zip tie and disconnect.

Locate the ECU; a silver box on the drivers side of the bulkhead with a ground strap running to a 10mm bolt. ECU is held in place with a metal bracket.

"Bend" back the left and right arms of the bracket to allow the ECU to slide upward. Disconnect the large connector from the ECU in the same manner.

Once both plugs are disconnected, the entire wiring harness, and fake firewall will be free to remove with the motor; flop them up over the valve cover.

From the passengers side wheelwell, locate and remove the lower alternator mounting bolt; it is an 8mm allen head socket, or allen wrench.

Once removed, use an 8mm allen wrench to loosen the top alternator mounting bolt; this can be done from the top, from inside the wheelwell, or both.

The top bolt will not come "out". It only needs to be loosened for the alternator to be removed. Loosen it all the way, the use a prybary to remove the alternator from its two mounting points.

Remove the 13mm head nut holding the positive battery cable to the alternator, and the 8mm nut holding the +12V field wire to the alternator.

Leave the alternator down inside the "mess" and remove the (4) 13mm head bolts holding the upper motor mount to the block.

Remove the mount.

Once the mount is removed, the alternator will come upward in between the intake manifold, passengers strut tower and firewall.

From inside the wheelwell, locate and remove the (4) 13mm head bolts holding the power steering pump / idler pulley assembly to the back of the block.

Locate and remove the (2) lower 13mm head bolts which hold the passengers side inner driver / lower motor mount assembly to the back of the block.

These two bolts also hold a sheet metal bracket in place which holds electrical plugs for the front and rear O2 sensors (IF 1996+).

At the very bottom of the rearward lower motor mount is a 16mm head bolt, mounted vertically which bolts the large bracket to the actual motor mount.

Remove this 16mm head bolt, as well as an identical 16mm head bolt on the front lower motor mount, located directly under the water pump.

From the top of the engine, locate and loosen the (3) 13mm head bolts holding the A/C compressor to the bracket on the front of the block.

Once the compressor is loose, you can rotate it to fully remove the bolts. It twists upward out of the way, for the remainder of the job.

IF TURBO: Locate and remove the (3) 13mm nuts holding the exhaust downpipe to the outlet of the turbo. Torches / heat may be required.
Loosen and completely unscrew the front O2 sensor from the downpipe. Twisting the wiring, and torches / heat may be required.

From under the car, remove the two nuts which hold the flexpipe studs to the rear of the downpipe / catalytic converter.

Locate, and remove the (2) 13mm head bolts from the downpipe / catalytic converter bracket to the back of the block. Sometimes it is easier to remove these bolts, then bend the bracket rearward to clear the passengers side intermediate shaft. The bolt which mounts the bracket to the exhaust is generally very rusty.

IF 1996+: Unplug the rear O2 sensor from its plug, and remove the downpipe / catalytic coverter.

Remove the 13mm head bolt holding the negative battery cable, from the lower, drivers side of the transmission.

Loosen the 16mm nut from the lower transmission mount bolt. Once loose, use a prybar to slide the bolt over 1/2" to clear when everything is lifted upward.

FOR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
Remove the (2) 19mm head banjo bolts holding the transmission cooler lines to the transmission. Reinstall the banjos once removed, and do not lose copper gaskets. Drain lines.

Remove the small sheetmetal retainer clip from the shift lever on the rear of the transmission, and slide the shift cable off the lever. Reinstall the clip so you don't lose it.

Remove the shift cable rubber grommet from its U-shaped mount, approx 8" from the shift lever on the transmission. It is press fit and slides right out just like the brake hose on the lower strut.

Unplug the connector for the VSS (vehicle speed sensor), a vertical cylinder on the rear lower portion of the transmission.

FOR MANUAL TRANSMISSION
Locate the shifter coupler on the rear portion of the transmission, which ties together a shaft entering the transmission, and a shaft coming from the shifter.

Locate a horizontal pin which locks the shaft from the shifter, to the shifter coupler body. It has a 10mm nut on one end.

Loosen the nut until it is at the end of the threads.

Use a hammer to hit the nut and drive the tapered pin backward. Once loose remove the pin.

From inside the car, put the car into 3rd gear, then with a quick powershifting motion, slam it into 4th. This action should separate the shaft from the coupler.

Disconnect the hydraulic line going to the clutch slave cylinder at the connection on top of the transmission.

Unplug the wire for the reverse switch on the backside of the transmission.

Remove the 17mm head banjo bolt which mounts the fuel line to the top of the fuel rail. Reinstall the banjo with its copper gaskets.

Locate, and disconnect the fuel line from the barbed bottom of the fuel pressure regulator, located on the passengers side of the fuel rail.

Locate, and remove the fuel vapor line located on the backside of the intake manifold. It is held with a plastic retainer. Depress the ears of the retainer and pull backward to release the line from the retainer.

Locate the (3) 7mm screws which hold the engine oil cooler to the side of the radiator. (1) is located vertically on top, (2) are horizontally on the bottom.

Remove the top screw, loosen the two bottom screws and pull upward to release the engine oil cooler.

Remove hose clamps for upper and lower radiator hoses, for the water pump -to- reservoir hose, and for the two heater hoses (located on drivers side of block). Disconnect all the hoses, and drain the coolant. Wedge the heater core hoses up around the brake fluid reservoir to keep them out of the way.

Unplug the coolant level sensor from the bottom of the reservoir, and remove the reservoir from the passengers side inner fender area.

Lift the power steering reservoir up to remove it from its bracket, and locate it behind the intake so it will slide past when the motor is lifted.

Remove the hose clamp on the turbo outlet boot, and disconnect the boot from the turbo.

Attach a chain between the lift eye on the passengers front of the block, and lift eye on the drivers rear of the block.

With an engine lift, pick upward to remove the whole engine / transmission assembly as one unit. The hood can stay in place, with the hood struts still mounted.

On removal, pay attention to the A/C compressor, engine oil cooler, various electrical connections, the power steering lines and reservoir, and on a manual transmission, be especially careful that you don't catch the shift coupler on the underside of the brake master cylinder and damage the brake lines.

What should come out in one large clump is the motor, transmission, engine oil cooler, cruise control brain, and wiring harness. You CAN remove the cruise control brain, but it is an extra step.

GOOD LUCK!!!!!

__________________________________________________ _

Excellent and detailed description. I have a few dissenting opinions..

1. You do not need to touch the 32 mm axle nut. Once the two bolts between the strut and the steering knuckle are removed, you can pull the drive shaft apart from the inner drive by loosening the boot clamp.

2. I thought removing the tapered pin on the shift coupler is too much trouble. You will almost always get bogged down removing it in car. Actually there is no need to touch it. For the old style coupler there is certainly no need. For the new style coupler I always disconnect the shift rod by loosening the collar bolt so I do not touch the tapered pin. I thought doing a shifter alignment after install is much easier.

3. I thought it unnecessary to remove the alternator. I always just remove the two bolts between the power steering pump and the bracket. As the drive train is lifted I just pry the PS pump away from the bracket so I lift the alternator together with the drive train.


I've never bothered to just pry the CV's out of the inner drivers while leaving them bolted through the spindle. I don't see why you couldn't.

Yeah, the tapered pin and shift coupler, there are 50 ways to do it depending on what style you have and where you'd prefer to take it apart. I was more aiming at a general "you need to mess with the shift coupler somehow." reminder. Thanks for the details.

I've also never bothered to try and remove the PS pump from its bracket, and leave the bracket with the alternator. I think I tried to remove one way back and it was all rusted and boogered up, so I just pulled the 4 bols and the alternator.

Nice going Adam. Every time I pull a FWD engine/tranny my alignment ends up hilariously altered because of all the Front member arms that have to be removed and rebolted later. Do you know how to prevent this?

The only thing adjustable in the front suspension on the 9k is the toe. So if you do not touch the tie-rod end nothing will be affected. And you do not need to touch it pulling the drive train. Even if you are replacing the tie-rod ends you can avoid messing up the toe by carefully marking the thread engagement.
Thank you so much this is an amazing guide. Keep posting anything? I might need. Speaking of that, do I need a fuel quick disconnect?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by All the saabs View Post
Yeah, we are going to remove the oil pan and look. The top of the engine is mint. I don't understand how this happened
Dropping the oil sump is probably my least favourite thing to do on a 9000.
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  #8  
Old 3 Days Ago
davide c davide c is offline
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Full agreement on that. It doesn't come off willingly/easily. .. But?
Mere curiosity as to what caused a mid life engine to develop a bearing issue.
Obvious reason is OIL. Too little OR too much in the pan.. typically.
Or a bad oil pump Or clogged arteries.
Would think that the oil light would have lit up tho.
The PITA sump removal process IMO is still worth doing.. if only for understanding why.
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  #9  
Old 8 Hours Ago
All the saabs All the saabs is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davide c View Post
Full agreement on that. It doesn't come off willingly/easily. .. But?
Mere curiosity as to what caused a mid life engine to develop a bearing issue.
Obvious reason is OIL. Too little OR too much in the pan.. typically.
Or a bad oil pump Or clogged arteries.
Would think that the oil light would have lit up tho.
The PITA sump removal process IMO is still worth doing.. if only for understanding why.
According to the last owner the level was fine, just that the oil was upper milky and after he changed it the knocking stopped then came back again. Also anyone know how the shifter linkage comes out? Also what size is it and if it needs to come out. If someone answers these questions it would be awesome!
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  #10  
Old 7 Hours Ago
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dmgb5 dmgb5 is offline
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Join Date: May 2003                                                
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Its a 8mm nut on the taper pin for the gear selector shaft and 13mm lock nut on the shifter shaft.

Last edited by dmgb5; 7 Hours Ago at 09:11 PM.
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  #11  
Old 7 Hours Ago
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dmgb5 dmgb5 is offline
dmgWarden
 
Join Date: May 2003                                                
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Do you want to remove the shift coupler to replace it or because you're pulling the motor?
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