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2008 9-3 Convertible Speaker Upgrade

13K views 12 replies 3 participants last post by  SaabinATL 
#1 ·
Hi all,

Thought I'd do a write up on my speaker upgrade since I finally got to it today.

The front dash speakers were upgraded to Boston Acoustics SE35s, while the back speakers were upgraded to Alpine SPG-13C2s since the sound shop does not stock Boston Acoustics (very rare in SA in any case):




On that note, the rear speakers in the convertible are NOT 4", but 5.25". We only found out I had the wrong speakers when we took apart the rear panel. Also, who designs a car so that you have to remove the rear seat bench and take apart the rear panel just to swap speakers? #epicfail

First we tried the JBL GTO528 (2 Ohm), but I preferred the sound from the Alpines (4 Ohm) - the sound is much richer in tone whereas the JBLs tend to 'spit' at the high frequencies.

Now for a comparison, although I'm not sure the quality is good enough in these clips to hear the difference. Of course, all volume/equaliser/fade/balance settings were kept the same.

OEM - Iron Maiden
http://youtu.be/Wa_sKmTHQN0

Upgrade - Iron Maiden
http://youtu.be/EqI86C02LVw

OEM - Adele
http://youtu.be/CTj_RCwtx3c

Upgrade - Adele
http://youtu.be/d_BAqV-cRaE


Verdict:
Very, very, very satisfied. The sound in the car is *much* improved, I am now hearing sounds that I did not before, especially in the mid-range. Roof up or down, the sound now kicks some serious behind :cheesy:

I cannot believe how simply changing the speakers to something decent changed the sound system ;ol;

Total spent: R1975
BA SE35: R850
Alpine SPG-13C2: R650
Installation: R475

The next step is to replace the standard radio with a touchscreen double DIN with Bluetooth and navigation. Unfortunately these cost an arm in SA, so I'm looking at close to R15k for an Alpine or Kenwood unit :eek:
 
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#11 ·
I wouldn't have asked about the sub if I had been able to find it on a search on JL Audio or google :) Any rate, then it doesn't appear I'd be able to get my hands on that model you mention anyways on ebay or anywhere. Having a hard time finding a sub that would fit in there unless I went 8" :nono;

Yes, I've also searched on LOC to the front door AMP1, however, I'm hoping for more detailed info to hand to my installer, since he's a little nervous about tapping it. I've also heard it said a LOC isn't necessary since the AMP1 provides the signal needed to attach directly to a high level input on the amp. Also, I'm confused why tapping AMP2 isn't actually better since it's already geared to power a sub. Also, I know there is some input/output at the head unit that some have tapped into (Dash speakers?) My installer will be installing the bluetooth harness anyways, so he can tap amp or head unit, whatever is best.

REF -Some of the info I'm reffering to tapping AMP1 and with /without LOC http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205054
 
#12 ·
My bad, it is 10w1v2-4, ate the 1.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JL-Audio-10...Car_Subwoofers_Enclosures&hash=item3cca22f432

Those are the ones you ideally want, since its a perfect fit. You might also be able (not sure, dont take my word for it) to tap the front woofer speaker and take that signal to your amp, the signal there is already filtered.

You could also consider putting two 8" in place of the 6x9, there are plenty of adapter plates to do that, and since the factory holes, they're recessed, you wont have any fitment issues.

I dont have fiber bus, so I couldnt help you there. I just bypassed the entire factory system, ran new wires to everything including speakers, and added an audiocontrol lc8i. That way I do whatever the hell i want to.

I wouldn't have asked about the sub if I had been able to find it on a search on JL Audio or google :) Any rate, then it doesn't appear I'd be able to get my hands on that model you mention anyways on ebay or anywhere. Having a hard time finding a sub that would fit in there unless I went 8" :nono;

Yes, I've also searched on LOC to the front door AMP1, however, I'm hoping for more detailed info to hand to my installer, since he's a little nervous about tapping it. I've also heard it said a LOC isn't necessary since the AMP1 provides the signal needed to attach directly to a high level input on the amp. Also, I'm confused why tapping AMP2 isn't actually better since it's already geared to power a sub. Also, I know there is some input/output at the head unit that some have tapped into (Dash speakers?) My installer will be installing the bluetooth harness anyways, so he can tap amp or head unit, whatever is best.

REF -Some of the info I'm reffering to tapping AMP1 and with /without LOC http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205054
 
#13 ·
Naks-

haven't had time to post my complete setup. But, I did buy a JL JX500/1 D and a JL 10W3v3 500 watts rms. I bought this amp for it's power, but also it will fit directly under the drivers seat. I custom built my box so that it fits directly under the folded up convertible top in the trunk, with about 2" to spare. I disconnected my factory sub, tapped the trunk AMP directly to the JX500 and man, o man, does it thump. I actually have the gain on about 1/10 with no bass boost, and you'd think I have two 10's in the trunk. I dynomat the trunk lid, and dynomat the metal frame behind the rear seat, and I get no unwanted vibration noise in the car. But, you can actually feel the bass vibrate the front seats when the audio is turned up and still only at 1/10 power .;ol;

I think in theory you'd have the same success tapping the amp in the rear door panel, most of the threads on the topic tap that amp.

I can get you dimensions on the box I built, it's designed to JL cubic foot specs, although I messed up about 1/10 of a cubic foot.


EDIT:: I actually went with the Boston SE35 for the front, left the door stock (but dynamatted the hell out the doors) and replaced the rear 5.25s with JL TR525s.... I like the JLs so much about to ditch the Boston Acoustics for JLs (hoping to shoot for the C2 350x but I think I may have a clearance issue with them)
 
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