Ok, while removing my manifold to begin the task of replacing the water pump, I noticed the line from the Fuel Distributor that runs underneath the manifold had been sandwiched and cracked. So, I must reach out to those far smarter than I am for some ideas on a suitable replacement/fix.
Pretty hard to see. The line goes from where to where?
Good luck with the pump. Make sure you release pressure on the puller several times as you're pulling it. Even with the right tool, you can break the jackshafr gear if you don't relieve the pressure on it; the pump has to turn as it's withdrawn.
As you follow the line from the fuel distributor over the engine block ( where the intake manifold would normally be, you will see the line with the cracked casing. I spoke with the guys at English/Swedish in GA earlier this afternoon and they said a suitable replacement would be to use a product called NYCOIL, which is a nylon tubing product. I would have to figure out how to remove and replace the banjo and standard fittings though.
C'mon...The line can't go to the block. Maybe it goes to the warm-up regulator?
I don't fix anything but dinner nowadays, but I bet if you describe it more accurately somebody can guide you.
Only use the special tool to extract the water pump, do not use a slide hammer.
On SAABrally forums someone mentioned that the last batch of new Water pump kits for B-engines had the pitch for the gear slightly off, so the idler shaft explodes after 15 miles or so~
Jim, you are correct. The line travels from the fuel distributor to the warm up regulator. The description of the engine block is to see the cracked line in the photos (2) that I attached to the original message in the thread.
Thanks for the advice Kuponut. That sounds reasonable.
Carefully cut the line off its barbed fitting. Do it gently with a razor blade or knife to avoid scratching the fitting.
Clamp the line in a piece of rubber hose and tap the fitting in cold.
80's VW's used the same - or similar - distributor, but they had flexible, braided steel lines instead of hard nylon. So...if you can find those in the right length, they are pretty much a "bolt on" swap.
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