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Need some help replacing radiator

2K views 5 replies 5 participants last post by  jcm 
#1 ·
Hey everyone Ive worked mainly on chevy 305/350's and ford inline 6's but nothing like the saab. I have a radiator leak and i am planning on doing the work myself since the mechanic wants to charge quite a bit for what i think is that big of a job. Im just wondering if there is a write up any where for replacing the radiator. Dont want to miss some important step or struggle with removing it because of one bolt or a part/piece I should have removed from the beginning. thanks!

Also its a 2000 9-5 SE 3.0 6 cyl
 
#2 ·
Hey everyone Ive worked mainly on chevy 305/350's and ford inline 6's but nothing like the saab. I have a radiator leak and i am planning on doing the work myself since the mechanic wants to charge quite a bit for what i think is that big of a job. Im just wondering if there is a write up any where for replacing the radiator. Dont want to miss some important step or struggle with removing it because of one bolt or a part/piece I should have removed from the beginning. thanks!

Also its a 2000 9-5 SE 3.0 6 cyl
First off you sure its a radiator leak? most leaks are at the coolant bypass valve or in your V6 the oil cooler that sits in the coolant in the valley between the heads
 
#4 · (Edited)
Like Jssaab said, the radiator isn't a common failure. If it's truly leaking, that should be pretty easy to confirm yourself. If you're leaking coolant, put a big piece of cardboard uder the car to try and track the source. Don't just take a mechanic's word for it, especially if they're unfamiliar with Saabs. Good luck.

And to answer your original question: See here - http://www.thesaabsite.com/Saab-95-(95)-Radiator-replacement.htm
 
#5 ·
End tanks are crimped on and have been a source of trouble for a very few people.

I had my radiator replaced late last Summer because it had corroded and plugged internally. Probably more caused by age and high mileage than by using tap water with the antifreeze on the two or three radiator drain & refills I did, but who knows for sure.

Trouble points with radiator replacement:
  • Fan shroud, it needs to be slid to driver's side then rotated up and out of engine bay by lifting passenger side first. Time consuming PITA
  • Lower radiator hose, there is nearly no access regardless what you disassemble from the car.
  • Transmisison oil cooler, buy new washers for the two banjo fittings.
Otherwise, the radiator snaps into place by use of spring loaded pins on the top side.
 
#6 ·
Just had my radiator out on the 99 V6. It was leaking. Here's how I tested it: Cut a bicycle tube in half, clamp each end on the in/out openings. Plug the small tube that goes to the fill box; I used a hose with a screw threaded in the end and clamped it. Pop the air in the tube - doesn't take much to find the bubbles or hear the air. I fixed the seam leak with JB weld, note the 16 hour set time requirement. I guess that's why it so durable. I pressure tested after and found secure. Make sure to scour the leak area. I used a wire brush.

Getting rad out: removed turbo inlet tube and horrizontal alum tube to turbo downpipe. Unplug 2 elec connectors to turbo tube and rad, each. Drain from petcock if you can find it or just pull hoses and drain to pan. Rem two #10mm screws on each side, top of fan and pull out. Next, you'll push down on L/R springs holding rad in place. It will pull in and up, releasing from lower slots. Pivit right side up and it's out.

Mine leaked from prior owner installing water in place of anti-freeze in winter. This popped the engine block freeze plugs but amazingly did not cause serious engine damage. I've been chasing leaks since purchasing and fixing for my daughter. Good luck.
 
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