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| Classic Saab 900 Workshop Classic Saab 900 (1979-1994) Technical Forum. |
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#1
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I've never drained coolant on this car, but I do want to replace my water pump, so I guess I'll need to drain *some* of it. I found the drain plug on the bottom of the radiator not far from the battery and the major grounding point on the front cross-member. When you drain coolant, do you just open the drain plug and let the coolant splash all over the frame?? Or is there a hose you can put on the drain plug to direct it downward and avoid spilling coolant all over the frame?
For water pump replacement, I don't want to drain the whole cooling system, but how much drainage is enough? Oh, and is it OK to install a Hepu (Germany) water pump instead of "Genuine Saab"? They cost half the money on eEuroparts, so I thought I'd ask about it. Thanks. Last edited by deniss; 10-06-07 at 08:35 PM. |
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#2
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It would be a good idea to replace all the coolant, and flush the system when changing the pump, unless you have changed the coolant recently.
There is also a second drain plug on the engine block under the exhaust. |
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#3
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Yea, the coolant flush was done several months ago, so I figured I'll get away with just draining enough to replace the pump for now - I don't have the equipment to deal with coolant-flushing the entire system.
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#4
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You have to drain quite alot out to get below the level of the pump.
You only need a hosepipe to flush the system! Some pumps are not good quality - they do not have cast impeller. |
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#5
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If there's recent coolant in the system, use a hose on the drain plug and catch the coolant for re-use.
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#6
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#7
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I replaced mine last year and didn't use any sealants and haven't seen any leaks at all. Didn't even consider it to be honest. Don't see that it would do any harm if you're concerened about it right enough. Just get the gasket wet before you put it on so it stays in place when you're putting the pump on.
__________________
MMmmmmmm. Juicy Fruit. |
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#8
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I have just replaced mine - no sealant required.
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Phil H-B My Carlsson Convertible Project Thread Quote:
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#9
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There should be a gasket with the pump. That is all you need. I use some Hylomar as well, but is probably not essential.
Loctite 518 is a flange sealant. It's generally used instead of a gasket, or where a gasket is no longer available. |
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#10
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Replaced my pump a month ago with a junkyard unit so no gasket. I used a very thin coating of Locktite RTV (blue) on the flange. There has been no leaking after several 1000 miles. In general I don't use gaskets, just an appropriate flavor RTV...
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Banman '91 16vT '75 IH Scout |
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#11
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I'll definitely use the gasket that comes with the pump, and I did order the genuine Saab water pump - I have confidence that it should work without a sealant. Generally, I don't like using sealants unless necessary. I never used any sealant on the valve cover gasket, for instance, and never had any problems with it leaking.
I'm waiting for the water pump to arrive, and I'm hoping that getting the old seal out won't be too much of an ordeal... |
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#12
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#13
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Great advices - thanks!
I got the hose already... And a nice clean bucket... Anyone know the liter capacity of our radiators, so I know how large a bucket to have handy? |
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#14
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Turbo allows the valiant who has appeared at the wheel SAAB to gain momentum for 200 km/h Charm SAAB Turbo also that it to you not bad Porsche on it it is possible with speed of pregnant turtle feeling itself in full comfort which by the way our hero obeys a rudder reliably and confidently the truth management hardly will twirl a steering wheel by one finger uneasy. Without the hydraulic booster quickly enough perishes a steering shaft, but to change its hemorrhoids from the most fierce |
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#15
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Even if you drain the radiator it's going to dump a bunch of coolant out when you remove the pump, unless you drain the block.
Because of that, many people don't drain anything and let it belch out the coolant through the water pump opening. Most professionals glue the gasket to the pump for convenience and apply RTV for insurance.
__________________
Corporations are people! If you prick them, do they not bleed? If you tickle them, do they not laugh? If you poison them, do they not die? |
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#16
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How about this: remove coolant from the expansion tank, disconnect the expansion tank, open the thermostat bleeder valve, and drain coolant from the expansion tank hose. This should take out whatever coolant is on the same level as the water pump, right?
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#17
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It's easier, and more effective, to just drain the block.
__________________
Corporations are people! If you prick them, do they not bleed? If you tickle them, do they not laugh? If you poison them, do they not die? |
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#18
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OK, I got the old water pump off the car. It appears that whoever did this job before me just used the sealant without the gasket. I had some fun trying to scrape that stuff off the water pump housing using the knife blade. I'm not sure if I gouged the surface in some places while doing this, but I then used the very fine grid sand paper to polish that surface, and it looks as clean as it's gonna get.
I'm thinking though that I should perhaps use the Loctite sealant myself, just to make sure that water will not sip through any surface irregularities? It appears that some of the bolts also had thread sealant on them - pretty much like Tom Townsend recommended. Should I go ahead and use thread sealer on them as well? |
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#19
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#20
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