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C900 Workshop Classic 900 (1979-1993 & '94 Convertible) Technical Forum.

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  #1  
Old 4th August 2012
CObred218 CObred218 is offline
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Default Just a few things

Hey guys, just stopped by to ask a few questions.
Going to do a few updates on the 900, ive been extremely lazy and im hating myself for it so its time to read up for the next week or so and do repairs in bulk. I'm just looking for any tricks, tips anything that could help me, useful info or even links to other forums that answer my questions or, what i would really like, is some good write ups for the jobs. I search search and search for write ups and help but keep coming up empty handed and really don't have the time to keep failing. So if you guys could help me out, I would appreciate it more than anything.

Okay so lets see...

1. My shock absorbers are going out (they said all 4 ) which is what i had expected from feel and sound.
Just wondering if i could get a write up on this, and wondering if there are any special tools that I might need.

2. My odometer no longer works, just wondering how I would go about fixing this, taking the dash apart without breaking anything haha

3. Recently my heater core or heater valve went out, so i did a simple bypass but seeing as winter is right around the corner i need that heat haha.
This is a little trickier, i have a few questions with this:
If it is the heater core, can i pull one from a junk yard and use that or do I need to purchase a brand new one?
Also how will I KNOW for sure that it is the heater core and not the HValve or the O-Rings?


I cant really think of anything else at the moment, again i apologize for not going through all this myself but like I said it hasn't really been working for me. Im not the most knowledgeable and trying to learn so if you can help with any of these things, really, anything helps, and it is much appreciated.
Thank you again!
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  #2  
Old 4th August 2012
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Squaab99t Squaab99t is offline
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For all you that think the internet is full of free information, step up to the bar and make an investment.

Amazon.com: Bentley Repair Manual: Automotive Amazon.com: Bentley Repair Manual: Automotive

It covers in detail all the topics you are asking about.
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  #3  
Old 4th August 2012
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scantar scantar is offline
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Hey, welcome from another Coloradoan Saabster!

FYI, most sites have hard to navigate search functions. I find google much better when you type in the query followed by a specified site.

"(your search)" site: (site specified)

Like that. Because this site deals with Saabs of all flavors, you'll have to scroll to find the right thread link that comes up (188 in this case) but a lot easier than pulling your hair out in bb driven searches.

BTW, if you search for heater valve replacement you will probably find your heater core replacement questions answered as well.
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Originally Posted by bimmerjeeper View Post
So what you're saying is that I need to find a way to make my rod longer?
1992 Turbo 'vert, 1997 9000 CSE
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  #4  
Old 4th August 2012
900power 900power is offline
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Default

Here's how I search the forums. Copy and paste the info below into google:

heater leak "Classic Saab 900 (1979-1994) Technical Forum" site:saabcentral.com


This example will find info related to a leaking heater in the classic 900 forum. I set a bookmark in my browser, and all i do is type something in the place of "heater leak". Now, it only takes a few seconds to search for stuff. Scantar, for years that's how I used to search before figuring out how to omit the other Saab models.

I wrote some instructions for repairing a leaking heater valve here: http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=226356

Although I didn't use metric sized o rings, I certainly would if I had the time to find them. I can't tell you if it's the heater core, the valve, or just the o rings between the two. You might reconnect the heater hoses to their original position. Then unscrew the left dash speaker grill, lift it out of the way, and look at the heater valve through the hole with a flashlight. You may see that the leak is only between the heater core and valve, which could mean you just need o rings.
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  #5  
Old 4th August 2012
d_ames117 d_ames117 is offline
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Shock replacement: http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=133669
Shock Recommendations: http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=226805

The shocks can be very difficult to remove, especially the fronts, if they're original. I found the easiest way to do it was by using a cutting wheel to cut through the upper bushing (in the wheel well) and the shock mounting arm (not through the part that holds the gas. Though I have heard of people who puncture the shock and then cut through the center as well.

Odometer: Google this: site:saabcentral.com saab 900 odometer fix
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=175
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=198323
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=50290


Typically, the plastic gears in the mechanism get brittle and break with age. To keep this from happening to your trip meter, don't reset it while the car is in motion.

Dustin
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  #6  
Old 5th August 2012
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ejenner ejenner is offline
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I did a walk-tru for front shocks: http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=88538

Rear shocks are more difficult because they locate at the bottom in the rear spring links with a tight fit so you have to lever them out. The lower bolt is usually as good as welded into place. I try to turn the bolt head so the shank of the bolt is turning through the lower shock bush, in theory that should mean it will be easier to extract as you have loosened it already. The top mount for the rear shock is exposed to all the dirt and water and sits on a little dirt shelf which builds up mud so you normally start the removal process with some excavation to expose the top mount. More often than not an angle-grinder is required to remove the top mount for the rear shock.

Heater matrix, heater valve and speedometer require removal of the entire dashboard, this is a big job so will take several days unless you are a superhero. Probably easier to start by taking out the front seats and remove front carpet section on later cars or rolling it back on earlier cars. Working under the dash when the seats are in the car is difficult. Usually rather than struggle it is better to prepare the work area by making it easily accessible before you start.

Squabb is right though. If you have not got the Bentley manual then get one yesterday. It combines many of the original Saab workshop manuals into a single handy volume. Some of the really good stuff like gearbox rebuilds and diagnostics procedures are left out... but it is extremely useful for the DIY Saab mechanic.
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  #7  
Old 5th August 2012
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S900t8v S900t8v is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejenner View Post

Heater matrix, heater valve and speedometer require removal of the entire dashboard, this is a big job so will take several days unless you are a superhero. Probably easier to start by taking out the front seats and remove front carpet section on later cars or rolling it back on earlier cars. Working under the dash when the seats are in the car is difficult. Usually rather than struggle it is better to prepare the work area by making it easily accessible before you start.
No you do not need to do that ejenner...

The heater matrix does not require the dash to come out, you remove the knee board and there is a black air diffuser you remove then you remove the black heater core cover and remove the core. It's really simple. Will definitely not take a couple of days :S

The HC is held in with a couple of bolts and it is not a death struggle to remove it with the front seats still in. You remove the heater control valve before removing the HC. I've done it without removing anything except the knee board air diffuser and Heater valve.

The shocks - the easy way is to cut through the narrow shaft as mentioned above, if you don't have access to a cutting wheel cut the plastic covers off and hold the shaft with vice grips while you work the nuts loose. For the rears you may find removing the entire spring link is easy enough, allowing you to use a punch to hit the lower shock bolt out - not so easy if you have a rear sway bar, and then a press or even a mallet to whack the shock out of the spring link (I didn't find these thaaat hard, I just used a bottle jack to push the shock up with the shock in situ)

Again ejenner the speedo doesn't require removal of the dashboard, just the fascia which isn't that hard of a job and only takes a couple of hours compared to the entire dashboard. You will want to find out what has happened, there are a few causes
- teeth driving the speedo have worn out or sheared - check where the cable enters the gearbox
- the speedo cable has broken - test by removing from gearbox and opening left speaker grill, removing speedo cable from back of instrument cluster and getting someone to rotate one end of the cable, the other end should obviously rotate
- the speedo cable brackets were sometimes made of plastic where they attached to the speedo - some break - this could be your problem - don't know if you can bodge it though

So as I said a simple inspection through the left speaker grille may reveal something to you.

To the OP - you'd know a lot of these tasks are easier than described by the people above (with a lot less cooks spoiling the broth) if you did have a Bentley, it's a great resource but if you don't want to lay out the cash for it that's what the forum is for!

Last edited by S900t8v; 5th August 2012 at 04:49 AM.
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  #8  
Old 5th August 2012
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ejenner ejenner is offline
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Lets review:

Quote:
Originally Posted by ejenner
Heater matrix, heater valve and speedometer require removal of the entire dashboard
Quote:
Originally Posted by S900t8v
No you do not need to do that ejenner...
Quote:
Originally Posted by S900t8v
you remove the knee board
Quote:
Originally Posted by S900t8v
Again ejenner the speedo doesn't require removal of the dashboard, just the fascia
So you are saying you would have to remove the dashboard facia and the lower half of the dashboard? Didn't you begin by saying this wasn't necessary? You are suggesting leaving just one part of the whole dash assembly in place - the dash top... which is not really the dashboard technically speaking.

The position of the valve is as shown here:




It is just a personal preference but I find working so high up under the dash to be a real struggle when the front seats are in place. You could leave them in if you want to hurt your back, drop all the screws, spill coolant on the carpet, etc, etc... or you could make your life a little easier and remove the 4 bolts holding each of the seats in place.

The reason I'm suggesting it will take a couple of days is because I spent most of a day replacing my dashboard in my convertible a few weeks ago. I also replaced the speedometer at the same time. Almost the same job which is being discussed, only addition being that I also replaced the dash facia. It is easy to underestimate the amount of time these jobs take.



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  #9  
Old 5th August 2012
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S900t8v S900t8v is offline
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It's silly to turn it into an argument based on time but I found a couple of days to be a bit too long..

I've done the heater valve from below, removing the kneeboard (that is not the dash) and the air diffuser, it took 2 hours

I have removed the heater core, another few screws from that position, took about another 25 minutes.

Reassembly is same if not less time.

You dont get coolant on your carpet if you blow everything out with compressed air.

If you are my size it's not hard to push the seat back and lie on the floor.

A pointless argument, based on personal preference and differences in terminology. The Fascia is the fascia, takes 25 minutes to remove.

Last edited by S900t8v; 5th August 2012 at 07:26 AM.
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  #10  
Old 8th August 2012
CObred218 CObred218 is offline
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Hey listen, its all personal preference and I appriciate all the help that everyone has given me. It is nice to know that you guys really are here to help
I will use the information gained here to continue on my journey and if I have any other questions i know who to turn to haha
Thanks again fellas!! Means a lot
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  #11  
Old 8th August 2012
bobsverts bobsverts is offline
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Default Odometer Repair

My odometer stopped working and I found the plastic input drive gear had a split in the shoulder of the hub allowing it to spin on the shaft rather than drive the odometer. I roughed up the shaft and inside of the gear, washed both with a Q tip and lacquer thinner and used crazy glue to bond the gear back on the shaft. Still good one year after. Be careful with the crazy glue or you can permanently glue the shaft to its bushings - never work then.

Removing the speedometer needle without destroying it is the trick. First, you have to remove the instrument cluster and remove the speedometer assembly from the cluster. I lifted the needle over its stop on the dial and let it come to rest position. I then marked the dial with tape to put the needle back in the original position on re-assembly. To pull the indicator needle off, I clamped a dinner fork in my bench vise, carefully put the needle base between two tines on the fork and pulled firmly. The needle popped off without damage. To protect the dial from damage, I cut a thin piece of cardboard and put over the dial to protect if from damage and scratches by the fork tines. I also suspended a shop rag behind the needle to catch it when it popped off.

Hope this helps.
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