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| Saab 9-3 & NG900 Workshop Saab 9-3 & NG900 (1994 to 2002) Technical Forum |
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#1
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Debating whether to tackle this job myself. From the posts that I have read this job seems fairly straightforward. A few questions:
1. What would I expect to pay if I were to bring this to my indy Saab mechanic? 2. on eeuroparts.com there are 3 choices by different manufactures: Professional Parts Sweden, Febi and Federal Mogul. $17, $24 and $49, respectively. Which one is the best choice? Any other hints/tips/tricks would be appreciated. Thanks! |
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#2
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no one?
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#3
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This ain't a chat room
Get the Febi/Stein. This job is easy as long as you have a pitman arm puller to break the end free: http://www.restockit.com/pitman-arm-...kti70360).html Measure the length of the exposed screw and try to get the new end lined up as close to the original length as possible. Get an alignment right away. You might want to pull the inner rods and clean up all the clamp bolts and adjuster screws so the everything is refreshed and the alignment goes well. But it's another hour (everything unbolts) or two (rusted stuff) and there's a possibility you will need more parts because something is badly corroded. The main issue is that the clamp bolts on the inner and out tie rods need to be able to loosen and the adjuster screws need to be able to move. I did a write up for someone here a few weeks back on doing inners and outers. |
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#4
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Order whichever one you want. I'm getting mine from Rock auto. Tie rods aren't hard to do and you really don't need to go to a Saab mech.
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#5
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I've done both of mine myself. Aside from the hammer to get the bolt out, all went well. It's pretty rudimentary to do on this car.
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#6
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Thanks to everyone for the replies. Greatly appreciated.
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#7
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really depends if the adjuster is seized it can turn into an all day job.
__________________
900 SEC 2.xT, custom 3inch exhaust, GT35r BB turbo, custom log manifold, tial Q bov, autometer phantom boost,oil,WB, JZW full custom tune, siemen 60# injectors, aeromotive 340 intank, want fried rice? |
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#8
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If it's seized, you just take out the entire tie rod, put it in a vise, and use a big wrench and some penetrating oil. It shouldn't take more than a couple of hours to do that.
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#9
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if you're already replacing the end link anyway, this is a safe place to use a map/p torch to get what you want.
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