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9-3 Sedan, Cabrio ('04+)/Combi & 9-3X Performance Mods & Tuning - 1.9TiD-TTiD/2.0t/2.0T ONLY Covers Tuning & Performance modifications specific to 1.9TiD-TTiD/2.0t/2.0T ONLY

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  #1  
Old 11th January 2011
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Default bov diy... how to do it right.

so you all know i have a bov, and it took a bit of experimenting but i have it set up in a way that your car does limp or have idle issues and you dont run rich.
so lets start off by me saying im not responsible for anything you may do that breaks your car im only saying what i did.

Now lets explain what i did and how i did it using pictures .

The first thing to do is to get your BOV mounted on a pipe and then you need to have it mounted within the turbo lines i mounted mine by the intake manifold


Next we need to disconnect the stock diverter lines on the image below you need to disconnect the line on the top barb. once disconnected you need to connect your BOV's vacuum line to this solinoid


Now we need to start on the turbo. first thing you need to do is trace the vacuum line imaged below back to the connection on the side of the motor and pull that line off.


once the line has been pulled you next need to remove the turbo signal line from the wastegate solenoid (its the line facing the firewall). Once that has been removed the next step is to T the line with the line that you sourced from the stock diverter line ensuring that the stock diverter is connected to the turbo's boost only signal.


so at this point your saying but chris why am i doing this what is the reasoning behind this... can't i just get a block off plate? and the aswer to this is yes you can use a block off plate, but by running this line to the diverter it means several things.

one your not going to need a block off plate.

two the stock diverter still opens, but not untill a certain psi. because of this your after market BOV will still go off ensuring that sound and proper air dump you have been looking for, and with the stock diverter still opening the air thats going back out the turbo is getting metered meaning. This means that when you let off the gas instead of your car running rich and backfiring it will read that air is being released from the system and adjust to it. This will still cause a light richness but from what i have seen nothing above a .2-.7 from the standard stoich point.

three doing this will keep the stock diverter forced closed when boosting, and it will only open when boost is released that then only the spring force is acting against the diaphragm.

fourth doing this system will also mean that if you want to go back to just your stock diverter all you need to do is disconnect your after market bov and reattaching the lines to your stock diverter.

now i forgot to check for any codes i might be throwing, and i do not have a block off plate to test to see if just running a block off plate will throw a code. next week ill get a block off plate to see if any hiccups or errors occur.


please give input and my videos are still uploading
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Old 11th January 2011
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looks good man, so you ended up running the turbos boost source to the BPV to keep it from opening under low boost huh, def pick up a block off and see how it does...im waiting till next check, ill prob order me a obx dp and a bov...still debating on the sound i want, may get a type s or a type RZ...hmmm...than theirs the forge one aswell.....hmmmm
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Old 11th January 2011
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well i wanted an ssqv, but you know that market place full of fakes. i stumbled apon the syncronic on auction i won it for 154 shipped with hks flange and standard flange. i like the type s sound alot i came across these guys (http://www.ngrperformance.com/ngrinfo.php) they remake a type s with a different diaphram and all that dosnt leak and such. its 150 and its almost identical to the type s. seems like a good product, i might get a block off plate next paycheck or later this week we will see what happens. Right now im pretty contempt im going to keep looking into this and see what more i can be doing
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Old 11th January 2011
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yeah i was actually going to get the black NGR type s if i was to get a type s...and the a real HKS is easy to spot, will actually say HKS on it, fakes are normally easy to spot...i dont like the HKS, too many locals have it....now the type s is no longer made...so less people have it...now the synapses synchronic you have is suppose to be good...you get that video uploaded yet? wanna see what it sounds like
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Old 11th January 2011
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well i had a real hks at one point i got it for 80 bucks and i sold it for 135. the synapse sounds great really it kinda sounds like a tial but without the phsss sound at the end. the cellphone vids dont do it justic, but they arnt uploading so im gonna have to get them on my computer. tommarow my harness bar arrives so im gonna set that up in my car and then mount my dslr to that and use that.
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Old 11th January 2011
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Originally Posted by pacotaco View Post
well i had a real hks at one point i got it for 80 bucks and i sold it for 135. the synapse sounds great really it kinda sounds like a tial but without the phsss sound at the end. the cellphone vids dont do it justic, but they arnt uploading so im gonna have to get them on my computer. tommarow my harness bar arrives so im gonna set that up in my car and then mount my dslr to that and use that.
nice, i was just looking at the synapses one...seems if you connect it to the OEM BPV line you can let the ECM control its opening and closing...was tested on a hyundai genesis...they have a solenoid for the BPV aswell...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yj44QfAx_Qw
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Old 13th April 2011
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No I know it does alot. I did it when I swapped to the BOV. Just not thinking that it will fix the problem. Are you thinking it's just running lean? Caused by the BOV?
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Old 13th April 2011
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nope..
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Old 13th April 2011
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Me either. So how bout some feedback on what you guys think the problem is.
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Old 13th April 2011
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i know what the problem is but i care not to say it. just try resetting.
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Old 13th April 2011
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Seriously? Thanks
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Old 15th April 2011
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Reset the ECU and the stalling has gone away. I'm assuming for now. It took over a week to happen last time. Anyways, now I have even less boost. Even at WOT I feel like I can barely hear any spool. Barely any Blow Off as well. What the hell is going on with this. Should I just get rid of this BOV?
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Old 15th April 2011
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Told ya it get rid of the stalling issues, not sure about the others it could just be your precption... Do you have a boost gauge?

Also do u have ur stock bpv on or the bov
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Old 15th April 2011
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Told ya it get rid of the stalling issues, not sure about the others it could just be your precption... Do you have a boost gauge?
Yeah I knew it would get rid of it. I didn't think it would actually solve the problem. Like I said, it took over a week to develop issues last time. I don't think it's preception. Even under WOT you can't hear any boost. I thought it was in my head but no matter how I try it doesn't seem to get a lot. I tried hard acceleration in third gear and release (since it usually gave best blow off sound previously) and even on the best ones I feel like it's not blowing the same air as it was previously. Could all the symptoms before and what seems like lack of pressure now be a turbo issue?

I feel like I'm going to need a boost gauge to really see whats going on. I think I'll look for one online tonight. I've wanted one for awhile now anyway.
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Old 17th April 2011
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So I installed the HKS and AGP adapter with no gasket as I was not able to find any gasket maker that would withstand anything higher than 600 F. The car threw a CEL 10 mins after install so I cleared the ecu with the programmer...No probs now...the car is running great but the boost doesnt seem to be as high as it was (the gauge only hits the first red bar)...could just be.. me the car pulls great. I should really order some gasket material or buy the other adapter plate or just go with it?
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Old 17th April 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drdrew85 View Post
So I installed the HKS and AGP adapter with no gasket as I was not able to find any gasket maker that would withstand anything higher than 600 F. The car threw a CEL 10 mins after install so I cleared the ecu with the programmer...No probs now...the car is running great but the boost doesnt seem to be as high as it was (the gauge only hits the first red bar)...could just be.. me the car pulls great. I should really order some gasket material or buy the other adapter plate or just go with it?

I think you should of had a boost gauge before. So you can really see if there is a difference. The stock boost gauge is rubbish


Does the AGP adapter have o-ring seals? Regardless, get some gasket maker.
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Old 17th April 2011
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The AGP has no O-rings....So I will order some gasket maker...unless the ATP plate is cheaper...its only like 28 bucks or so....Ill pay another 15 to get the right plate....im going to look for a gauge now...any recommended all in ones or pods?
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Old 17th April 2011
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The AGP has no O-rings....So I will order some gasket maker...unless the ATP plate is cheaper...its only like 28 bucks or so....Ill pay another 15 to get the right plate....im going to look for a gauge now...any recommended all in ones or pods?

Placement of the gauge is all up to you..

I bought a universal single pod from a local auto store. Had to cut and fit it so it fit the Apillar. Then I had a local wrap it to match my Apillar color.

I'm currently running an autometer, but if i had to do it all over again..I'd be running this puppy.

http://prosportgauges.com/green-whit...ost-gauge.aspx
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Old 18th April 2011
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i hope you ordered a boost gauge by now... and yeah that black ring is probably just wear and tear dirt and crap.
Yes I ordered some gauges. Should be here Thursday. Im still lost what the issue is. Paco, you said you knew the problem before. Can ya help me out? Is it a BOV issue? Or should I be looking elsewhere?
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Old 18th April 2011
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wait are you having the problem still....? with stalling and weird idle?
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