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| Saab 9000 Workshop Saab 9000 (1985-1998) Technical Forum |
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#1
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after driving my car would i need to wait any amount of time idling before i can shut the engine off to protect the turbo at all?
Also, what is the cheapest bov i can buy that will work for the 1995 9000 cs ( apparently i have the low pressure turbo system if that matters) |
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#2
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But what you sugest is what iīm doing for years and what is told to do by the Best Saab mechanics... For daily drive to work or so, just idle for 15 to 30sec.... Like ... Park the car, and ideling, close the windows, the sun roof, gather your house keys, the mobile, the wallet and then shut doun the car... something like that..... For long drives just take a minute or so... That alone will help saving your Turbo..... ( of course if itīs bad allready, that will delay the time to repair but this donīt repair whatīs wrong with it...!! )
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http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/7...ab9000r1tr.jpg |
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#3
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If its a really hot summer day (over 80 outside) and you have been flooring for full boost everywhere its not a bad idea to let it idle for a minute. If you drive conservatively under normal to lower temperature conditions its not really necessary.
I would think there would be a lot more turbo failures in the hot states if it was really super necessary, but it cant hurt! so do it. I personally do it on hot days. But i live on a road where the speed limit is 45 so i can coast a long ways to the garage and dont boost on the driveway, so thats a long time letting it cool. Plus my fan always kicks in after i shut the car off and that cools down the turbo anyways doesnt it? Last edited by boon94; 11-09-07 at 05:21 PM. |
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#4
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The water is circulating in the block... the Turbo ( if itīs water cooled ) isnīt cooled īcause the water pump isnīt working....
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http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/7...ab9000r1tr.jpg |
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#5
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I at least let the glowing stop before I shut down for the evening.
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Best way to get rid of tailgaters: Use the Turbo! |
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#6
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The car has a recirculator valve stock if you didnt already know. As for a cheap bov, i don't know
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#7
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i know about the bpv already. I just want the cool sound of a bov lol
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#8
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#9
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I opened up the airbox on my CSE and found that I didn't get anymore boost on the top end due to the ECU cutting back to avoid knock. I only noticed, apart from the much louder turbo whistle and recirc dump, that I get a bit more turbo lag, and then worse surge when it does hit. It was much more driveable IMO with the stock airbox. I'll be closing off some of the holes in an attempt to moderate the lag.
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Best way to get rid of tailgaters: Use the Turbo! |
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#10
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I removed my air box altogether, i have a pipe coming from he turbo connected to an open air filter thats sits inside of the fender. I was wondering if i was to get my body shop guy to cut slits into the fender to let more air in, i wonder if it would make a noticeable difference, something along these lines, this is from a corrado, i was thinking about doing this to my corrado when i had it but never got a chance, i wonder how big of a difference it would make, you would defiantly suck more air in and get that louder turbo sound, sorry to hijack the thread
Imran |
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#11
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I doubt you will get any perfomance gains from the sills like in the pic, but if you install a NASA duct, that might I think. Won't be as sexy though...
To get back to the original question, I think it is REALLY important to let you turbo spool down. As far as I understand, it is not only about the temperature, but also about the spining turbo rotor. Turbo spins at something like 40000rpm. If you were divign under boost, and then shot the car down, the oil is not being supplied to turbo anymore, but the turbine is still spinning pretty fast. My sister just got volvo S60R and in the manual for it, it says to let the car idling after spirited drives. Because "spirited" drives is ambigious, i would reccomend always letting the car idle for like 45 sec. Same goes for the start up. Never give gas to a turbo car right after the start! THe oil is not efficienlty flowing through the turbo yet, but you are already making it spin very fast. NOT GOOD! As far as pushing a cold car goes, this is arguable, but I would not reccomend giving it too much load before the the arrow of the temp gauge got into the blue area. I think this of all the cars, even the NA ones, but for turbos especially. 1) Oil is not up to "speed" yet, therefore doesn't lubricate everything very well. Actually, I heard that start up of the car is equivalent to 500km of highway driving...2) Rigns are not expanded yet. THerefore increasing the boost inside the chamber, the compression, will increase the blow by through the rings when the car is cold. Because of these two things, I would reccomend always warming you car SOMEWHAT, at least to see the temp gauge needle move... Klim
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The only way to measure true happiness is in terms of boost 270hp/396ft/lb. Maptun stage 3 ECU, JT 3 inch downpipe, cat and the rest of exaust, k&n filter. |
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