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My saab died twice today - I have no idea what it could be.

1K views 18 replies 9 participants last post by  rh1 
#1 ·
I have not had to use this board for awhile, which is a good thing. But today, I convinced my wife to run a few errands using my commuter rather than my truck or her Infiniti...the car has been running great, but today, while we were stuck in traffic due to a wreck, the car died. I did not even realize it had died until I tried to move to the left a little to see if I could see what the hold up was up ahead and the steering wouldnt turn because I lost power steering. I looked down, and all the warning lights were on...oh sh&#(@t!

I put it in park, prayed, and it started right up....I blew it off as a freak occurrence and we went on....I was not moving at the time, so I thought maybe it was bad gas(the car, not me) or a misfire....

The car ran fine for the rest of the day, but on the way home, I exited the highway, and driving down the feeder (about 40 or 50 mph) it did the same thing again....I just happened to look down and saw the lights, again, no warning signs, it just died. I was able to coast into a gas station, put it in park, and it started right up again....

I am concerned about this because if it happens at highway speeds, or at a time I need my power steering, I could really be in trouble...The two stalls did not trigger the check engine light, and the car seems to run fine otherwise. Anyone have any suggestions, and ways to test what this problem could be?

I have a 1999 9/5 SE 2.3, 130K miles.
 
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#2 ·
It could be one of about a bazillion things. :(

I'd start with cleaning the throttle body thouroughly, which means taking it off the car and dismantling it.

Then i'd pull the maf and do the same.

Also just because there's no cel on, doesn't mean there isn't codes to be read, but from your description I doubt there's any non-cel illuminating codes....

Unfortunately the problem you're having can be very frustrating. It's almost better if the car just breaks down, then it's much easier to find the offending component.
 
#5 · (Edited)
It could be one of about a bazillion things. :(

I'd start with cleaning the throttle body thouroughly, which means taking it off the car and dismantling it.

Then i'd pull the maf and do the same.

Also just because there's no cel on, doesn't mean there isn't codes to be read, but from your description I doubt there's any non-cel illuminating codes....

Unfortunately the problem you're having can be very frustrating. It's almost better if the car just breaks down, then it's much easier to find the offending component.
Wow............thats some scary post!

Ok personally and as has been said I would first change your CPS its by far the biggest cause of on the road stalling, fairly cheap and just a bit fiddly to DIY....

I believe there is a thread to replace it in the FAQ which refers in its title to CPS and stalling.

Oh its also worth checking that no one in the car turned or knocked the ignition key !
 
#4 ·
Could be something as simple as a loose vacuum line somewhere... let off on the gas suddenly, engine speed drops quickly, and it dies. Happened to me a couple of times.

A vacuum line had popped off. I put it back on, tightened with a zip tie around it, no problems since...
 
#8 ·
Ok team - all agreed?

So our advice is, check hoses and vac pipes first!

This is such a cool community! :cool:
 
#9 · (Edited)
Thanks for the help...

To answer some questions, The first time it happened, we were sitting in traffic, car was at operating temp, and we were moving 5 ft, stopping, moving up, stopping. Second time, also well at operating temp, but doing 45 mph or so, although I had just let up on the accelerator.

The thought that I might have bumped the ignition is interesting. I must say we do use that little area around the key to place all sorts of things (Cigarettes, wallet, french fries) so my wife could have bumped the key.

I also think that perhaps it could be the CPS, and since it is only around 50 bucks, I guess it might be worth changing out.

Does anyone think it could be the dreaded DI cassette? Or would that definitely trigger some engine codes?

By the way, I went out last night and checked to see if I could pull any codes with my reader. There were none, and all systems checked out ok.

I will check to see if I might have a loose vacuum hose as well. Anything is possible.
 
#10 ·
Does anyone think it could be the dreaded DI cassette? Or would that definitely trigger some engine codes?

By the way, I went out last night and checked to see if I could pull any codes with my reader. There were none, and all systems checked out ok.
To be fair, vac leaks and DI faults "normally" give a code

The CPS however, doesnt..........
 
#13 ·
the plot thickens

Ok, so I guess what we have decided is that it could be the CPS or the "key bump" with the outside possibility that maybe it is a maverick vacuum hose line that is escaping detection. I will update once I have checked these out...perhaps I can take a test drive and do some key bumping to test the theory???
 
#15 · (Edited)
Ok, so I guess what we have decided is that it could be the CPS or the "key bump" with the outside possibility that maybe it is a maverick vacuum hose line that is escaping detection. I will update once I have checked these out...perhaps I can take a test drive and do some key bumping to test the theory???
When my cps went i got a large jolt as i was doing about 60mph at the time,then when i came to a stop the engine was dead ,and it would not start till it cooled right down:eek: .
No lhm no cel no codes
 
#14 ·
Put wifey in the trunk! :p
 
#18 ·
she said, you can no longer sleep in the master bedroom! per the master!!! wheeepasssshhhh!!!!! <---whip sound.....
She told you about US :eek:
 
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