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Full range door speakers?

9K views 46 replies 11 participants last post by  crispin9-3 
#1 ·
Would it be worth it to swap out the low range amp and door speakers with full range ones in my 900SE? I care more about audio quality than anything, but something tells me that the acoustics of the vehicle wouldn't allow me much benefit from full-range vs. low-range speakers when they're mounted at floor level.

Also, what's the box behind the trunk lining, where the clarion changer (which I don't have) plugs in? Is it an extra amp, or what?
 
#2 ·
My family's had several Honda Civics with full range speakers down low in the doors, right where the woofers are in our Saabs. I was never impressed with how they sounded down there. The balance was always off, and the treble didn't project well. If you want to replace the amp with a full-range one, I'd put a low-pass filter on it so the door speakers still only get bass.

I'm not sure what other box you're talking about behind the trunk lining. The only thing that should be back there is the power antenna motor, unless you have a convertible. I think they have a computer for the top back there, too.
 
#3 ·
I'm not sure what other box you're talking about behind the trunk lining. The only thing that should be back there is the power antenna motor, unless you have a convertible. I think they have a computer for the top back there, too.
Well, it's not a convertible, just a 5-door SE. The box is mounted a little bit forward of the antenna motor, right below the rear speaker. I had assumed it was hardware related to the CD changer, but I suppose it could also be an amp for the rear speakers? It seems to be a factory part.
 
#4 ·
Since we have an old car here with an unknown history...I'd guess that at one time the mystery trunk bracket held the CD player - years ago..
On audio quality, I do not think that any vehicle can be good at this...there is so much audio compromise....only a true concert hall with a proper design will do.
Or a superb pair of headphones, IMO..
 
#6 ·
Well I'm not sure why the CD changer would be in a sealed aluminum box, INSIDE the trunk lining.

The aux amp that drives the front door speakers has an active crossover built into it that kills all but the bass. Full range speakers won't ever get the higher frequencies

On the up side, the old oem woofers might well be getting quite tired (the foam surrounds are notorious for failing) and full range speakers are much easier to find and make perfectly adequate replacements.
As I said, I'd be swapping the amp out as well. Door speakers aren't currently working, dunno why. Just fixed my SID so I can finally use the radio again.
 
#5 ·
The aux amp that drives the front door speakers has an active crossover built into it that kills all but the bass. Full range speakers won't ever get the higher frequencies

On the up side, the old oem woofers might well be getting quite tired (the foam surrounds are notorious for failing) and full range speakers are much easier to find and make perfectly adequate replacements.
 
#9 ·
So... Back to the original topic at hand. Which option out of the following should I pick?
New receiver, small amplifier for door speakers (possibly new door speakers as well) and stock rear and dash speakers
-or-
New receiver connected directly to new component speakers, tweeters in place of dashboard speakers, and no amplifier
 
#15 ·
I don't have all that much to spend, but I care far more about audio clarity and dynamic range than power/booming bass... I am a bit of an audiophile, but of course can't be too extravagant... Even if I did have thousands to to spend on car speakers, I'm not sure I'd install them in my $500 Saab...

Generally speaking, if a product is the best "value" within a certain price range, I'll get whatever is the best "quality" within the same price range, provided that it's within 10-20% of the price of the "value" model.
 
#16 ·
I don't have all that much to spend, but I care far more about audio clarity and dynamic range than power/booming bass... I am a bit of an audiophile, but of course can't be too extravagant... Even if I did have thousands to to spend on car speakers, I'm not sure I'd install them in my $500 Saab...

Generally speaking, if a product is the best "value" within a certain price range, I'll get whatever is the best "quality" within the same price range, provided that it's within 10-20% of the price of the "value" model.
Your car should have the control cable for a CD changer running to the back already. So if you can find a Saab (Clarion) changer in the junkyard, you have CD with your existing head unit. May not cost much either.

The factory dash speakers are not very good, and the rear factory 6x9s will probably have rotted foam, and they weren't very good in the first place.

The factory radio had already been replaced by a crappy Sony Xplod so I put in my Blaupunkt head unit.

I had a pair of good (Boston Acoustics SL95) 6x9s on hand, so I dropped them in the back, and drove them with a small power amp I have. I ran the dash speakers off the head unit. They weren't very good, so got replaced with the best pair of drop-in 3.5s I could find (Kicker; would have gone for Boston Acoustics but BA is out of the car audio game). This produces a pretty effective sound overall, though the enclosure for the 6x9s isn't good enough for really clear deep bass.

If I get around to it I might put in some door speakers (my car didn't come with them), but the additional complexity in wiring and amplification is dissuading me. The system as I have it is competent and will play nicely loud without being annoying. The soundstage is kind of surround, though, instead of being from ahead. I don't mind, but some people do.
 
#18 ·
You may be able to get the one from the 9000 to work, but the newer ones (9-3 and 9-5) are married to the car and wont work with a ng900.
The changer in the trunk is 6 disc, so you wont have to change that often, I do have one I don't use if you want it, but I think a new headunit is a better decision as its nearing 15 years old now. And where in MA are you siguii?
 
#21 ·
Reopening this thread, I'm still trying to decide what would be the best solution. I'm planning on getting a Kenwood KDC-352U head unit. But as far as speakers, I was thinking of one of the following:

1. Polk Audio DB6501 component system ($107), with tweeters in place of dash speakers, no amp

2. Infinity Reference 6030cs ($90~100) or possibly Kappa 609CS ($129) component system, as above, no amp

3. Either of the above combined with amp. ($35) (Other suggestions for a good low-cost, low-power amp would be appreciated.)

4. Polk DB651s door speakers, DB351 dash speakers, and the above amp (in order to drive door speakers.) (~$132)

5. Something else?
 
#22 ·
I was also thinking, perhaps I could swap out the dash speakers with 3.5'' Polks (per option no. 4) but leave the door speakers as is, just with a new amp. Since they're low-range, anyway, would that be a decent solution? Or would I be perpetually disappointed by muddy bass?
 
#23 ·
If you wait a few days I will have some 1st hand info for you.

I have ordered a new Head unit (Sony Media Player)

I have a set of Kicker dash speakers and MB Quart mid-bass speakers in the doors.

I ordered a similar amp and will be using it to drive the door speakers.

I have found a good spot to install a small amp. There is a good spot betweet the lower knee bolster panel and glove box.

I will not have any rear speakers as I have not ordered them yet.

I will have everything installed by this Friday so I can let you know the improvement.

Right now I have the factory radio with the front channels running the dash speakers and the rear channels running the door speakers. it sounds ok at best.

My new headunit has built in crossovers as well as time alignment so it should be a great improvement over the stock radio.
 
#25 · (Edited)
I've been under the impression that most head units are more or less the same. I like the Kenwood one because it has a vacuum fluorescent display, which none of the others have. I find it more aesthetically appealing. It also seems to have generally nice features.

Either way, why does the head unit need a crossover, if the component speaker system / amplifier comes with its own?

Edit: quick look at the Kenwood website indicates that the 352U does indeed have a built-in crossover.

Also, would the Dual XPE2700 amplifier compare favorably to the Soundstorm one I linked earlier?
 
#33 ·
I know this probably isn't very helpful, but for those people who said sound quality can not be achieved in a Saab, I challenge you to sit in my car for 5 minutes. You'll disagree.

The key to excellent sound quality is sound deadener (like Dynamat) and a processor (like a BitTen).

Speakers and amps help too.
 
#35 ·
I know this probably isn't very helpful, but for those people who said sound quality can not be achieved in a Saab, I challenge you to sit in my car for 5 minutes. You'll disagree.

The key to excellent sound quality is sound deadener (like Dynamat) and a processor (like a BitTen).

Speakers and amps help too.
You put any sound deadener where the 3.5s are located?
 
#44 ·
here are the specs for that driver - Cutout diameter: 5-3/4", Depth: 3".

easy to fit - IMO

BTW - just finished putting on my door panels and tuning the radio.

My system sounds pretty good, I am a bit surprised.

I have not applied deadener to my doors yet as I want to make sure I do not need to pull the panels off anymore first.

I did take spray adhesive and glued the moisture barrier to the door which helped to seal the door a bit.

My amp for the door speakers will be here later today so I will be installing it tonight.
 
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