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Spark plug how to on 2.8T?

65K views 89 replies 38 participants last post by  tquinn 
#1 ·
I saw the write done but it looks to be on a 2.0.

Anyone got a write up or a link to do it on a 2.8T?

I can get to the front ones real easy, but looking at the back 3 seems to be under the manifold.
 
#29 ·
Denso Iridium Power. I took the car for a long ride today and was impressed. So far my gas mileage is about 1-2 mpg better and the engine is more responsive. It also feels like the transmission shifts smoother. Although, I can't think of any relation between the sparks and transmission other than a smoother running engine might translate smoother power to the transmission. It could be in my head too.

To anyone thinking of changing your plugs I would say go for it. If the plugs are 30k old or more the effort vs reward seems to be worthwhile.
 
#31 ·
I changed mine two days ago. Definitely the most difficult tune up I've ever done. It's not too much for a weekend mechanic like me, but it's certainly a pain in the rear. Took me about three hours.
A few notes:
-The two silver levers that hold the ECM cables have to be open all the way to remove the connector. The top one was easy, but the lower one was bumping into the a/c line. Took me a while to figure out that it wasn't all the way open. There is a slight click when it's all the way open (there's a little slide in the connector that has to get out of the way for you to remove the connector). Just make sure you push the silver lever as far as it'll go. And as everyone says, be very careful when you remove the connectors. The pins in there are TINY and could get bent easily. Also be careful when working around the ECM with the cables removed. Don't bump into the pins on accident with your socket!
-There is a bolt under the ECM that you have to loosen. It's hard to reach, you'll have to find it by feel. As the WIS indicates, the bracket is slotted, but you'll still have to loosen the bolt to get the ECM out.
-Not mentioned in the WIS is that there are two ground wires that you'll also have to remove to get the ECM out.
-Once you remove the bolts on the cable duct (step 5) there is still a small clip on the bracket on the bottom. I broke mine off on accident. Not sure what the right way is to release it. Since the cable duct is bolted on, I think it's fine if you break the clip.
-The view on the third WIS image is from the firewall. You're looking at the back of the engine. The brake vacuum hose has a white button that you push to remove it. There is a bolt that holds the crankcase ventilation hoses. Once you remove that, they just pull straight out. Then just push them to the side to reach the final two plugs. No need to fully remove them.


Lastly, MANY MANY thanks to Ferms for posting the WIS images!!
 
#33 ·
I just used a standard socket set. No swivels needed. You'll probably need boh a 3/8 driver and a 1/4. I only used the 1/4 once: for the bolt under the ECM since the space there is pretty tight. I also needed two extensions to reach the rear plugs.
I had no issues removing the plugs.
I used anti-sieze on the new plugs. Seems that's a personal preference since some people say they didn't use any.
 
#34 ·
Thanks for the info. At 58K miles on my '06 2.8L I just got my plugs installed, new BSR Optiflow installed, and tires rotated in about 5 hours taking my time. What a difference. Engine just purrs like it was new. I used the NGK OEM plugs from Saab USA Parts. The intake came wrapped in plastic; I figured for the price it would have stellar packaging but not the case. Still a nice product. The sparkplug job was very involved for the back 3 plugs. I will reiterate what others have posted... be careful not to bend the pins in the control module. They set back in the plastic housing a good bit but it is possible to get a finger or small tool in there while loosening all the parts. For the sparkplugs you'll need basic mechanics tools...

5/8" sparkplug socket
10mm socket (1/4" drive)
9/32" or 7mm socket/box-end wrench (both if possible)
3/8" & 1/4" Rachets with several different length extensions (I used 1/2" rachet as well)

I also used below but not required...
Anti-seize (I used it on plugs and most bolts)
Di-electic grease (Used on ignition coil boot)
LED worklight or flashlight

If it's your first time give yourself half a day to do it right, and make sure you don't forget or damage anything. It will be worth it in the end. This is the 2nd hardest plug job I have done after my old 2005 F150. The 5.4L V8 sucked cause 7 out of 8 plugs were stuck in the heads. The Saab was cake compared to that, so I guess you could say I have some experience doing this. BSR sounds great btw. peace all

Finished pic:
 
#41 ·
Good grief at the price of the recommended plugs

I did a quick search earlier on the NGK# PLFR6C.10G plugs recommended in this thread (or one referenced in this thread) and the cheapest I saw a set of 6 was $104. Over $17 a piece is a little steep I think. I think I'll try something else. I don't know that mine need to be replaced, but my car has 92K miles and I don't know if they've ever been replaced, so I thought I would go ahead and replace them. I'll let you know what I get and how they seem to perform once I get them in. I'll keep the current ones and clean them up if they still look decent and keep them with all of the other parts I always think I'll need later and never use. Might be different this time since parts seem to be hard to come by lately.
 
#42 ·
I posted elsewhere that I used denso iridiums when I changed mine. They worked out well. No difference that I could tell over stock, but anyone that tells you they gained power with a spark plug change is just imagining things.

V-tuner reccomends Denso's so that why I went with them.

I'm a huge fan of advance auto parts. You can get a set of 6 denso Sk20hr11 (long life plugs) for $43 using code A123 (that price includes shipping but not tax). Alternatively if you need more stuff, you could get six plugs, a k&n washable air filter, and a cabin air filter for $96 with free shipping if you use my referral code RAF7JA1102 ($35 off $85).

Rock auto wants $56 for just the densos or $64 for the NGKs.
Good luck!
 
#43 ·
he recommended IKH22 for me... huh.

I got mine from sparkplugauto.com for about $45 shipped i think.

I did my plugs in about 1.5 hours. good instructions in this thread.
 
#51 ·
Profits?
I'm pretty sure I bought them @ 9.50 a piece x 6 + shipping = more than your sorry *** quoting 31$ eat a dick and try a calculator.

Advanced Auto has them for more than what he will pay from me.

Awesome Im glad you found a deal on the internet. Apparently you are a genius and can google search, wow good for you. Wanna be euro *****. The point here is you were not even in the thread and you come in here saying im ripping him off?? Sorry i didnt take time to search for the best deal for him. I simply have 6 unused plugs that I personally paid around 60 bucks for a few months back. I thought I was doing him a solid by offering them for under half what I paid.
 
#52 ·
Thanks for this write up guys. This is slightly time consuming (if its your first time) but its not that difficult. I changed my sparkplugs yest, but I still get a misfired on 3rd cylinder (bad coil). Luckily it looks like I only have to remove the ECM and then swap out the coil.
 
#54 ·
General rule of thumb is, you buy them for cars you don't care about..
Check out Advance Auto Parts.
You can get the denso's for ~$33 with coupon ES123. Supposedly as good as the NGK's in our cars
 
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