So what is an actual honest cost for this job? I've been quoted at $386, $232, had two places refuse to touch it and one rude ******* tell me "OH yeah, you have to remove the engine for that....":roll:
I'm waiting until Monday to call a saab tech in Ann Arbor (not open weekends) and I'm hoping to get a more logical estimate from someone more famliar w/ the cars. I hate to say this, but this may be the end of the line for the car....$550 in the past month on it and close to $6000 total. We'll see...........
its an easy fix. slacken the alternator belts, remove belts, undo 4 water pump disc bolts and it will literally fall off, undo the 6 water pump bolts, give it a tap and it will come free, clean the face of engine surface(old gasket residue) then get new pump and gasket and reverse the proceedure,experienced 1hr+ max :lol: inexperienced 2hrs. get yourself a bentley manual(even a haynes has this in) and it will show you and tell you almost everything,get a pump from "europarts" or "parts for saabs", pity your not in uk, i have a spare, cheap)
dont despair yet all it is a $65 waterpump about 45minutes labor and you'll be back in business!! I did mine on the side of the road on my 900t 8v!! had the new pump in trunk. The 16v is abit more crammed in I'll say. Just dont give up!! on her yet.
@#$*(&#%@(#$&@*#)^$@$@^*!#$^!*!!!!! I wrote out this whole thing, it logged me out, and when I logged it in told me "Invalid Thread Specified" and when I hit back it was all gone! ARGH! OKAY, here we go again:
Do NOT EVER go back to the asshat who told you it was an engine-out job. The pump is right on top in your face once you unbolt the AC compressor (which is probably the hardest part of the whole thing), and even if you pull the engine you'll still have to pull the AC compressor, so basically he was talking out of his *** to try to rip you off.
If it were me, I'd buy/order the pump and gasket and do it myself. Wait, that IS what I did!
Autozone in Farmington Hills carries a pump which comes with the gasket. (If you're lucky, they may actually HAVE both of those. Don't get the remanufactured if you have ANY choice though)
Be very careful with the paper gasket, it rips very easily and will be formed in some awkward contorted manner from sitting in the box on their shelf for 30 years. Do NOT try to simply bend it flat. Instead, immerse it in water to let it become soft then lay it flat onto a clean surface.
I'll rewrite the How-To today or tomorrow for anyone who might be interested. I may just make it a companion to the haynes/bently...
That sounds like one of those garages that probably doesn’t even know what country Saabs come from…
I stopped for gas one day at this little small town garage and the guy pumping gas asked how did I like driving a German car….. so I guess even with all the technology there are still some people that should stick to changing points in their model T’s
“asshat” I like that one…..:lol:
Up around here we call them “hilljacks”, you know…. They same guys who’s wife is also his Aunt… or better yet, his sister, once removed……:roll:
Nah, hillbillies make much better mechanics than that ****er. A proper hillbilly would remove all the body panels before hoisting an engine... That is, unless his 6'7" 450lb cousin is around, then they simply have him stand on the roof and pull on a rope... But in any case, the extra charge would be one case of cheap beer.
Using air tools and a lot of experience, you can replace the pump in 17 minutes. No need to remove A/C. If you're real good, you can do it without loosening the belt; you have to unbolt the W/P pulley anyway.
Factory (warranty) flat rate used to be .8 hrs.
Using air tools and a lot of experience, you can replace the pump in 17 minutes. No need to remove A/C. If you're real good, you can do it without loosening the belt; you have to unbolt the W/P pulley anyway.
Factory (warranty) flat rate used to be .8 hrs.
That sounds like one of those garages that probably doesn’t even know what country Saabs come from…
I stopped for gas one day at this little small town garage and the guy pumping gas asked how did I like driving a German car….. so I guess even with all the technology there are still some people that should stick to changing points in their model T’s
Mine is a 900 Turbo DOHC. Had to change Water Pump and Head Gasket. The gasket that came with my $38.00 lifetime warranty water pump was made out of some strange paper material that came all bent and looped in the box and just rigid enough that when you tried to bend it into shape to place around the face of the pump,.. it cracked.
Bottom line, Blue RTV is the only thing that allowed me to mate the pump, gasket and block. Personally, I would never consider mating surfaces or joints connected with a car's cooling system without using some form of sealant. For now, Blue RTV seems to work the best for me.
Mine is a 900 Turbo DOHC. Had to change Water Pump and Head Gasket. The gasket that came with my $38.00 lifetime warranty water pump was made out of some strange paper material that came all bent and looped in the box and just rigid enough that when you tried to bend it into shape to place around the face of the pump,.. it cracked.
Be very careful with the paper gasket, it rips very easily and will be formed in some awkward contorted manner from sitting in the box on their shelf for 30 years. Do NOT try to simply bend it flat. Instead, immerse it in water to let it become soft then lay it flat onto a clean surface.
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