|Saab NG900 & OG9-3 Performance, Mods & Tuning Covers Tuning & Performance modifications for the Saab NG900 (1994 to 1998) & OG9-3 (1999-2002) & '03 Convertible|
|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|22-09-13 12:56 PM|
Well, I'm a little older... if I hang around the frat house picking up girls I'm considered sketchy and likely to get reported to the police :-)
I like the hair ties in the glove box idea... but don't they look at you like a guy who has a pack of condoms in there when you pull them out ?
|15-09-13 06:13 PM|
oh gosh you have no idea, every once in a while I get all kinds of "omg can we go for a ride with the top down?" or " Wait!?! can we put the top down??!?! AWH MY hair is in my face...!!" I have hair ties in the glove box... they take up less room and you can buy packs of millions... living next to the frat house has its perks...
|15-09-13 03:41 PM|
My experience is that you have to "get" the girl first, the 'vert just makes them smile when they get there. Next they complain about their hair blowing around so have one of those visor caps in stock for them. PPPPP.
I know the roof being up makes a huge difference in the 'vert shake. Not having anything tying the top of the car together is a major structural issue on the road. But, the braces might compensate for that, and make sedans that much more solid.
Another area that would add some stability would be a bar across the struts, on the front/top side of them. That would stop the tops of the towers from moving... but wouldn't do anything for the mid-car bend.
|15-09-13 01:25 PM|
|15-09-13 12:38 AM|
As far as actually doing this, a friend and i actually talked about putting square tube in the frame rails with a cross brace and a roll bar to improve things.
Nothing serious just spit balling ideas. Like I said, I have a vert, its bar far the worst when it comes to stablity, ask GrkGuy he went from a 900 vert to the coupe and has told me its world of a difference.. Personally id love to drive a car with a cage... like common, tell me you wouldn't want a vert with a cage... girls would just climb in.. i'm telling you, they pretty much already do they just need encouragement. Its just not in my budget or within my abilities to fab one...
Not sure id pass inspection with one either... :/
|14-09-13 11:52 PM|
|BobSaabit||I'd be interested in knowing how much the 3d/5d flexes when you jack it up. I'm thinking that it's probably a heck of a lot less than the 'vert since the roof is a key structural link from front to back (floor/rocker being the only ft/rr structural member in the 'vert). I've seen door close problems with the 'vert on jacks in the front behind the wheels.|
|14-09-13 11:41 PM|
Based on what I've seen jacking the 'vert, I'd agree with Pontius... I think those braces would have to run right up and under (attached to) the subframe. When the front of the car tries to lift, you want the brace to have enough leverage on the front end to stop the floor pan/rockers from flexing mid-car and letting the front end lift independent of the rear... the rear being there mostly just to hold down the front.
You won't get that from the new braces if they end (start?) behind the subframe and go from there back. It might help a little, but won't be nearly as effective as it could be. The 6pt, which is a great idea, helps keep the two sides of the subframe from twisting and allowing wheel lift and instability (and cowl shake for 'verts) up front, but it does little to stop the chassis flex that's happening in the middle of the car.
Two more thoughts:
- Routing could be an issue... I don't think there's a clear shot back from the subframe sides to the rear (from memory, the exhaust is in way). Might need some creative snake-y braces from box beam material.
- I think this is going to reduce the car's ride comfort signifcantly. I have a 'vert with Eibach and Koni's... the ride is actually better with the roof down i.e. the body flex is compensating for the stiff springs and making it comfortable, but handling suffers a bit especially on harsh roads. I think having solid bars there all the time will make our cars harsh. If your car is a DD too then a better solution that could be mounts permanently attached and bolt on/off bars for when you want to go dragging.
|14-09-13 04:19 PM|
|14-09-13 12:02 AM|
|13-09-13 05:20 PM|
or it's purpose from a structural standpoint?
from personal experience, i feel like it makes a considerable difference when combined with the other bracing
more apparent on the convertibles, but still affective on the 3dr/5dr
|12-09-13 04:58 AM|
|12-09-13 04:29 AM|
Why not make sub frame connectors like mustang guys use?
That mod must be improve saab 1/4 times
|28-07-12 07:33 PM|
I got mine from a company called HiBoost. My car was actually the one you saw when you opened up the website. There are a few others out there that are just as good or even better when I left. Last one I remember that was good was from a guy named 'D' in the Virginia area.
|27-07-12 06:27 PM|
|comtrang||Custom TURBO kit? Interesting. I have a friend with a newer one who'd like to boost his.|
|27-07-12 06:13 PM|
|23-07-12 02:02 PM|
Was that the mazda speed 3? I can keep up with the 2.3na cars in my moms van...
|23-07-12 12:38 AM|
|22-07-12 05:15 PM|
|droppedf100||Yeah you are very close. If you buy drag radials buy Mickey Thompsons. I have BFGs and though much better than stock they will spin if you try to leave on boost at the track. They work better on the street which makes me believe driving through the water at the track messes it up even after a quick launch to get the water off. We will probably go to another local track where you can drive around the water.|
|22-07-12 03:44 AM|
|comtrang||If your driving is consistent then drag radials will definitely be enough to push you over that line.|
|22-07-12 03:22 AM|
|condaddy||I know I'm trying find a few mods to give a lil more hp and working on the suspensions and getting drag radials|
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