I have a 2.0t 93, and am looking for some advice with regards to Tuning the engine, i have spoken to various companies Elkparts, abbott racing etc, and just wanted to know what you guys think ?
Would i be better getting a BSR PPC and remapping my current ECU or
would i be better off buying a Maptun stage 3 kit which comes with a new ECU and exhaust, some people are telling me that remapped ECU is better, my model is the 154 BHP a remapped ECU can get me upto approx 245 BHP ( with exhaust) and a stage 3 Maptun kit would get me to approx 280 BHP, the kit costs nearly double of what a remap costs, but cost is not really a issue i just want to mod my car properly,
Or what would you guys advise ?, i am open for suggestions the engine is pretty standard at the moment ;oops:
the staged tuning thing is somewhat subjective as I am sure a number of members here will tell you.
the best way to go about tuning is set yourself a target for power/torque output, and then look at the means to the end.
also it is very important to make sure the chassis can handle the mods you make - 240/280bhp is all very well, however won't do you any good come time to stop or go round a corner!!
If anything, and I think if anyone will chime in on this it will be Raggy, a car that stops and turns well is worth more HP per £ than any tuning kit...
If I were in your situation (as I may be if a guy actually picks up his phone!!:evil: ) I would be looking at a rear anti roll bar, uprated suspension, fast road pads, a 3" downpipe/sports cat, high flow panel filter and a stage one ECU - giving good balance, and allowing time to adjust to the new lease of life - and extra 65bhp in one shot is quite a shock (I went from a fiat stilo 1.6 to a 900 turbo - grins per mile were priceless, but jumping 70bhp took a few miles of getting used to)
There are people on here who I am sure will reply who are far more authoritative on this subject, but it is worth thinking about your goals before breaking out the credit card.
I concur with ferkle in uprating the suspension and brakes before upping the power. A steering rack clamp and uprated or piggybacked rear arb and some poly tca bushes being your first upgrade to tighten the chassis up, then a koni suspension kit or similar and uprated discs and pads for added handling stopping prowess. Between £1000-£1500on parts depending where you buy from or what you fit. Then uprate the power as you wish
the rescue kit will definitely help with torquesteer (trust me its an issue on the fun side of 200bhp, a fun issue, but an issue nonetheless!!)
as you are in a 2000 model you have T7 (trionic 7) engine management - which I know less about that T5. However as I understand it
ARB stands for Anti Roll Bar - take a look under the back of the car - you will see, running across the rear 'axle' a rod about 15-18mm thick - this is your ARB - running the thicker/double stacked (double stacked is 2 standard ARB bolted together) helps flatten out understeer, and promote oversteer if the right suspension setup is used.
I don't know if it is possible, but how about having a HOT ecu married to the car, giving 185bhp, and doing the handling mods, then go for the proper power mods? Anyone any ideas on doing this?
I spke to a guy from BSR PPC and gave him my VIN number and he confirmed that i have a T5 model, which confused me even more is there a way of telling once and for all which model i have :evil:
there is a decoder on saabnet.ru - i am not sure if this returns the results in russian (my car is 5 floors down otherwise I would test)
rule of thumb is the Direct Ignition Cassette (DIC) if it is red you are T5 if it is Black you are T7 the switchover to T7 was in 2000 i beleive so it is very possible you are in a T5 car.
I would pretty much trust the guys at BSR - they write new software for both management systems, so they are likely to be a good authority on the matter.
Well i know the cassette is definitely red cause i had to replace it last year, so i am glad i am finally getting somewhere now. they are great cars solid like nothing i have ever experienced before i had a smash in one a completely killed the Vauxhall vectra that hit me ( i have pictures). i have done the visual side of things, bodystyling new wheels Lowering it etc, so now time to do the performance side of it
you wouldn't happen to know where i could get used interior trim parts from would you sorry to be a pain.
Interior bits? Ebay, local breakers if you are lucky. Depending on the parts you need, some of the site sponsors can supply - one of them is a breaker.
the rescue kit will definitely help with torquesteer (trust me its an issue on the fun side of 200bhp, a fun issue, but an issue nonetheless!!)
...
I don't know if it is possible, but how about having a HOT ecu married to the car, giving 185bhp, and doing the handling mods, then go for the proper power mods? Anyone any ideas on doing this?
I TRIED THAT. it worked! it was a quick and easy upgrade, but i didnt keep it long b/c i stumbled upon a stg3 Maptun ecu. Many told me it couldn't be done, but i went ahead and did it anyway. My next curious endeavor would be to see if the viggen cams improve the 2.0 pwr output. I'm theorizing since the Vig is a 2.3, the cams have a longer duration...meaning more flow. now if only i can get my hands on some....
I TRIED THAT. it worked! it was a quick and easy upgrade, but i didnt keep it long b/c i stumbled upon a stg3 Maptun ecu. Many told me it couldn't be done, but i went ahead and did it anyway. My next curious endeavor would be to see if the viggen cams improve the 2.0 pwr output. I'm theorizing since the Vig is a 2.3, the cams have a longer duration...meaning more flow. now if only i can get my hands on some....
its a good theory, however, i believe the 2.3 head flows better, however the 2.0 cam is the better profile - Mike Saunders might be the guy to ask about that, he really seems to know his kit. I am fairly sure he said the 2.0 cam was the better options.
Well i know the cassette is definitely red cause i had to replace it last year, so i am glad i am finally getting somewhere now. they are great cars solid like nothing i have ever experienced before i had a smash in one a completely killed the Vauxhall vectra that hit me ( i have pictures). i have done the visual side of things, bodystyling new wheels Lowering it etc, so now time to do the performance side of it
you wouldn't happen to know where i could get used interior trim parts from would you sorry to be a pain.
Interior - there's always good old fleabay! Check out professional Saab breakers on there [twostroketoturbo, salvo and neo bros].
Now you have confirnmed that you've a T5 car you know that a PPC is not an option. You have done the basics for stopping and handling but you can really tighten it up next ready for the powerhike .
The Viggen Rescue kit is a good purchase, it can also be pulled together from other suppliers.
Partsforsaabs can supply you rack clamp and brace, all the poly bushes you need and front & rear anti roll bars.
I have one of these subframe braces from this guy on ebay, the quality is excellent and fit up good.
As I have a late 900 with T5, we're running largely the same car, so far here's my mod. List; that is a great sticky thread at the top of the tuning forum, a browse through will give you ideas.
As for power, once I've fixed up my clutch, I think Maptun stg3 [ish] will be my goal; I know an installer that is renowned locally to me for quality - you need to find someone similar in your neck of the woods ideally or travel to Nottingham.
its a good theory, however, i believe the 2.3 head flows better, however the 2.0 cam is the better profile - Mike Saunders might be the guy to ask about that, he really seems to know his kit. I am fairly sure he said the 2.0 cam was the better options.
do correct me if i'm wrong, but it sounds like a 2.3 head, with 2.0 cams is the way to go? if there was a previous thread on the topic could you point me in the right direction? thanks!:cheesy:
Now you have confirnmed that you've a T5 car you know that a PPC is not an option. You have done the basics for stopping and handling but you can really tighten it up next ready for the powerhike .
Many thanks for all your assistance in this matter, i will do the work to the chassis this month and then Powerhike it next month, along with a full respray
its a good theory, however, i believe the 2.3 head flows better, however the 2.0 cam is the better profile - Mike Saunders might be the guy to ask about that, he really seems to know his kit. I am fairly sure he said the 2.0 cam was the better options.
+1....the T7 head/T5 cam suggestion was actually from Nick Taliaferro, who said it's one of the most popular tweaks among Swedish power freaks...
I think Vigge might have switched cam profiles too. I remember him posting a chart of the cam specs from the B202 up to the B207, including some of the Euro-only engines....
sweet. if you guys know where i could learn more about this, hook me up! what kind of results does it yield? and when you say t7 head w/ t5 cams do you mean straight 2.0 to 2.0? was there even a 2.3 t5? thx.
There was a 2.3 t5 car and some say it was the best ever, 9000 aero or even the cse or cs, the thing is the heads are all the same, 2.0 and 2.3 head is exactly the same, cams are the same too. T7 viggen and 9-5 2.3 heads are the 2.3 t7 heads with different cams and smaller valve stems and this is one reason many feel they flow better, less valve stem diameter in the way of the air!
Problem is they can and have broken in high rpm, high hp applications, that is probably why Maptun reverts back to a t5 head with stronger wider valve stems and stronger valve springs too. Maptun also offers a larger intake and exhaust valves for the head with stiffer springs and that with a port/polish and t5 cams would make a great combo. The only thing better is there aftermarket cams that have longer duration and more lift, they have 3 sets and one very aggressive set of cams that require some machining on the lifters for clearance!
John
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