Does anyone know what the PSI increases to on the Nordic ECU and the JSP ECU. I think the JSP ECU is about 20 PSI but im not sure about the Nordic. And also which one do you guys prefer because i will be getting mine hopefully within the next month. Thanks.
i was thinking about them but JSP is 50 bucks cheaper (im only 16 and im trying to get the best with out much money) and i heard that the JSP tuning was one of the most aggressive out there. Is this true?
Before you get tuned, no matter by whom, make sure your car is in GREAT running condition. That means no boost or vacuum leaks, all the proper wiring, nothing done half-azzed.
That might mean spending some money, but you'll appreciate the results.
also: Any tuner can give you an "aggressive" custom tune, regardless of the tuner, but those are probably not what you want, as you don't have the green to replace things that go ker-BANG!!
You want a relatively conservative tune that will be relatively forgiving if something goes wrong. Most staged tunes are like that...
Also...
If you're going to do this the right way, you probably want to make sure you have the hardware and handling stuff squared away before you start thinking about an ECU....
hate to beat a dead horse, but listen the man kid, ECU was one of the LAST things on my list to do. first i did shocks, springs sway bars, bushings, then rotors, pads, lines...AND THEN intake, delivery pipe, 3" DP and exhaust, a custom titanium crank pulley...and ony because it was a steal, I got the stg3 MapTun ECU ($350!). i wasn't planning on it until after a new intercooler, head port and polish, some stitch welds and custom fabricated bars to stiffen up the chassis, and possibly a bigger turbo (GT28RS), walbro fuel pump and some green giant injectors, and more suspension work...then more brake work then more suspension work...power comes last dude. no good having all that horsepower just spin the tires, or have to slow down to a crawl on turns, or worse, hit the back-end of a semi coz you can't stop.
i was thinking about them but JSP is 50 bucks cheaper (im only 16 and im trying to get the best with out much money) and i heard that the JSP tuning was one of the most aggressive out there. Is this true?
Thanks Mike, I'll be in your neck of the woods, in early May for practically a week. Do you think United Airlines would let me bring an engine block on a flight?
But seriosly, turbo5door, just ask if SQR will match the price. The ability to show up and learn some stuff will be invaluable.
Does anyone know what the PSI increases to on the Nordic ECU and the JSP ECU. I think the JSP ECU is about 20 PSI but im not sure about the Nordic. And also which one do you guys prefer because i will be getting mine hopefully within the next month. Thanks.
I got the stage 3 ecu and his dp, full 3" echaust and viggen ic and open air intake kit and my car made 23psi and ran very nice.
I think Jak's stage 3's are slightly more aggressive, that is he allows a little more torque in the first two gears to allow a little more wheel spin, if that is your thing and maybe a little more boost in the upper gears. The safety of the stage 3 ecu's is pretty good, from what I can tell, only the boost and knock maps are adjusted and the fuel maps are really not changed that much.
You would be fine with either of the companies you mentioned. Pick a tuner that you can get along with, talk to, like and want to do business with in the future if any issues happen to come up. Good Luck with your new ecu and let the modding begin
Update... I was doing some thinking today and im not going to go with an ECU. I would rather get an MBC and save over $400. Plus with the $400 i want to buy Koni Lowering Springs and the GS 22mm ARB. Then with the rest of the money i want to save up and get some Viggen wheels. As of right now i have a 3" catless downpipe, 2.5" catback, GS Intake and Forge DV. I know I have to do some suspension work and my brakes are good (13" Cross-Drilled Brembos in the front with hawk pads. THe back still needs an upgrade.)
Within the next 2 weeks i am buying waSaabiPSI's Front mount intercooler with the piping and most likely his CAI. Then once that is in i need to change my tranny fluid and check on some other things then get the MBC and possibly some larger injectors. Is there anything I'm missing?? Also can you guys give me some advice on the best MBC to get for our cars. Thanks a lot.
Don't change the fueling unless you have the programming changed...
also....you might run into trouble just lowering on stock shocks. Some people have found that tends to put toomuch strees on the old OEM component and it fails several months after lowering the car, so you wind up re-doing the job. Try to change springs and struts at the same time if you can swing it.
Update... I was doing some thinking today and im not going to go with an ECU. I would rather get an MBC and save over $400. Plus with the $400 i want to buy Koni Lowering Springs and the GS 22mm ARB. Then with the rest of the money i want to save up and get some Viggen wheels. As of right now i have a 3" catless downpipe, 2.5" catback, GS Intake and Forge DV. I know I have to do some suspension work and my brakes are good (13" Cross-Drilled Brembos in the front with hawk pads. THe back still needs an upgrade.)
Within the next 2 weeks i am buying waSaabiPSI's Front mount intercooler with the piping and most likely his CAI. Then once that is in i need to change my tranny fluid and check on some other things then get the MBC and possibly some larger injectors. Is there anything I'm missing?? Also can you guys give me some advice on the best MBC to get for our cars. Thanks a lot.
That is fine if you want to do the mbc, but that will only get you a little more boost in the first two gears where the stock ecu limits the torque and not much at all in 3rd, 4th and 5th gears. Also, mbc can only take you to 15.5psi where fuel cut is on the stock ecu. You can get up close to that boost with a good running stock ecu with good gas in 3rd gear and up. Ecu uprade eliminates the fuel cut and not only allows more torque and boost in the first two gears, but also allows a lot more boost in the upper gears 20-23psi is a lot more than 14-14.5psi that a mbc offers... My 2 cents,
believe me if i had a little bit more money coming in ECU hands down but...... (I should have stated this earlier)
#1- Being 16 i have to run everything by my Dad and he is not to fond of me spending $550 on an ECU.
#2- My car is an Automatic.
#3- The car has over 110,000 miles on it.
But either way ill be happy. Plus it will get some people to stop talking down to a Saab just because i have the balls to do something different :cheesy:
And can you guys tell me what is the best MBC to run and where to get it?
No worries, I just wanted to make sure you were aware the mbc is not the same as an upgraded ecu. Mbc helps a lot in the first two gears.
Suspension and brakes are often over-looked and are important to have when you up the power. When you go fast, you wanta be able to stop fast and stopping fast is as much fun as going fast in my opinion... Good Luck,
i personally am doing everything else first to almost "prepare" for the ecu.
saab sport cat bacl (installed NICE)
3"dp race cat
BOV
delivery pipes
MONSTER INTERCOOLER (jak stolls monster)
MBC+A
CAI
chip is way way way down the line talking about power.
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