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ordering suspension any thoghts?

1K views 22 replies 10 participants last post by  G96nt 
#1 ·
#2 ·
Koni shocks, Eibach, Vogtland or Lesjofors springs.


Koni springs are made by Vogtland, IIRC....


If money is an issue, then Bilstein HD shocks....
 
#4 ·
The dampers have the most 'say' in the actual handling of a vehicle the springs dictate height for a load and asborb shocks [hence calling that tube a shock absorber is a misnomer] the ability of the damper to then control the spring is what remains key.

Simply buy the best you can afford, if you want your car to actually handle well and have a limited budget get adjstable rear dampers with the 22mm rear bar and a few pieces of poly in the front suspension - this will run rings around a simply lowered 900/9-3.
 
#7 ·
mike saunders said:
Koni shocks, Eibach, Vogtland or Lesjofors springs.


Koni springs are made by Vogtland, IIRC....


If money is an issue, then Bilstein HD shocks....
I just got the Koni adjustables for my voxtland springs, they should make a good match eh??? My car was resting on the bump stops before with voxtland springs, do you guys know if the bump stops should be cut down and if so by how much or just removed as someone suggested?
Thanks, John
 
#9 ·
Mine are just removed... and I just avoid the big bumps. :roll:

Dont go with the KYBs for lowering! I didnt research them enough and my fronts lasted not even 2 years, however the kybs for the rear are just fine. I have vogtland springs btw.
 
#10 ·
I have mine removed now with kyb's and Voxtland springs and I only bottom out if I hit rail road tracks fast, but when it does bottom out its horrible. I was wondering if I would not bottom out as easy with my new Konis? With the kyb's, my front rested on the bump stops, that cant be good, maybe I will cut them down a lot and just leave a 1/2" or so in case I bottom out it won't be metal to metal:cool:

John
 
#12 ·
Since I recently found this website, and a less expensive suspension package, I was considering, although a ways into the future, about this kit.



This is an Eibach Pro System set-up. 1.2 inches lowered for my model year. This would be a good quality set-up, wouldn't it? It's running for about $579 at group9performance.com. Much less than the Koni's, which are simply waaaay to rich for my blood. I'm thinking that since the Koni kit with Eibach springs, at the abovementioned website, is about $73 more than the standard Koni kit, AND $40 more than the Konis with B&G springs, it must be a good deal. Unless the shocks aren't as good as the Konis. Is the thing which makes the Konis more costly the adjustability? What about the Sachs struts? Are they good quality or basically OEM replacement?
 
#13 ·
That's a nice coilover system, but those front shocks aren't the right ones for our shock tower inserts...
 
#15 ·
I installed koni springs with kyb gr2's about a month ago, and I'm pretty happy with them. The KYB's don't seem to be very favored, but they are inexpensive. I don't do any real agressive driving, but do like to push things and they are fine for me. I am on stock power right now though.
 
#17 ·
Its all about weight transfer and if you can keep the suspension from raising too much in the front and pushing down in the rear on your launch, it will help you get better traction and that is what its all about! Great tires, LSD, weight reduction, suspension tweaking and hp all add up to a car that will do much better in the 1/4 mile. FWD cars and especially saabs are horrible at launching from a dig, but with some work, they can do better.

Saw on the Maptun site, 9000 with seaholm lsd and about 450bhp do 0-60 in 4:7 seconds... That is starting to get respectible. Nordic shows a ng900 with 600bhp and awd going 0-60mph in 3:5 seconds, that rivals the evo...

Suspension and tires and lsd would be first in improving times, then the hp to carry you through...

John
 
#18 ·
If you can find the eibach pro system go for it! I think the shocks are made by either bilstein or koni? I woulda bought that but it wasnt availible when i made my purchase....
 
#19 ·
if you're REALLY about drag-racing, you want adjustable rear shocks.
Consider that when you purchase. if you want it to be in-expensive, get good springs, bilstein sport fronts, and koni adjustables for the rear.

get some sood tires, and do what you can to stiffen the motor-mounts. this will help you eliminate wheel-hop.

If you're only thinking about doing the 1320 every so often, it won't matter THAT much, but drag racing abuses cars a LOT, and you need to be ready for it.


the rest, you learn from doing.
 
#20 ·
yea, I was watching that speedparts saab 9-3 with 745bhp on the 1/4 mile strip on streetfire.net and it looks like he is doing second gear launches, he revs to around 6k and dumps the clutch and spins out of the hole forever, it must be second gear because he does not shift for days.... Now that seems very hard on the tranny and I thought it would help a lot if you could launch in second gear, but man, 6k clutch dump... WHEW, how long will a tranny hold up to that kind of abuse?

John
 
#21 ·
I used to launch in 2nd gear in the Galant with an ACT 2100 lb clutch.
I ended up burning through that clutch in 8-months...
the clutch is the weak-link in that part. nooo idea if the differential in a saab could handle that abuse well.


you'd have to talk to one of the other guys with lots o' power.... I blew a trans up last year, though. that was fun. it was because the p/o was a tool and never changed fluids.
 
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