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Time for a new clutch...Which one?

2K views 28 replies 8 participants last post by  G96nt 
#1 ·
The clutch is starting to go on my 96 900 Turbo and I was wondering if anyone had a preference on a new upgraded clutch. I have been looking at the SPEC Stage 2 clutch from GenuineSaab, which seems it might be good for my application but do I need to upgrade to hydraulic linkage if I were to get this clutch? I also was looking at the Swedish Dynamics performance clutch kit. What do you guys think?
 
#2 · (Edited)
the viggen's clutch is definitly a good suggestion, i have it on my car and it definitly has a nice feel, it also has good bang for the buck

[edit] - im not to sure about the hydraulics

a lot of the other upgraded clutches are probably over kill as you said
i think one of the guy's on the forum used the viggen clutch and hes close to 300hp
 
#4 ·
I have the sachs "R" (viggen pressure plate) and spec2 friction disk.. If I race, it overheats and slips...
I wish there were a stronger pressure plate. just make sure you replace the slave/T.O.B. when you do.

I never took the time to see if ACT makes a clutch that'll fit the saab. I'm sure they do... but you'd have to check the european fitments or possibly cobalt? who knows...?
 
#5 ·
Troll_speed said:
I went with Viggen clutch and PP, combined with the hydraulic kit available at Genuine.

I love the feel and driveability

No problems holding with my Stg-3 either
Hmm...so would you say that the hydraulic kit is absolutely necessary or just a nice improvement over stock. I'd like to get that, but I don't know if it's necessary enough to pay the 350 for it. Other than that, the clutch holds well though? After putting on my 3" dp, my clutch slips when I gun it now so I'm in the market for one.
 
#6 ·
I've got a '99 so mine's hydrolic, but from what I understand, you run a pretty good risk of snapping the clutch-cable if you're running non-hydrolic.even WITH hydrolics, I can notice a huge difference between kate's stock clutch and my Viggen clutch.

to be honest, I felt a difference between my viggen PP and Leah's stock viggen.
that may have been from the DBW, though.
 
#7 ·
G96nt said:
I've got a '99 so mine's hydrolic, but from what I understand, you run a pretty good risk of snapping the clutch-cable if you're running non-hydrolic.even WITH hydrolics, I can notice a huge difference between kate's stock clutch and my Viggen clutch.

to be honest, I felt a difference between my viggen PP and Leah's stock viggen.
that may have been from the DBW, though.
Oh, so hydraulic clutch is an update on the 9-3? I wasn't aware...But yeah, my clutch cable snapped a couple months ago but it was kind of a gradual thing, I think.
 
#8 ·
Like stated, you run the risk of breaking a clutch cable. I have been running the viggen pp and spec stage 3 disk from gs. for almost 6 months now with a cable. The feel is not as nice as hydraulic, but the cost of the cable is 50.00 bucks and the work to do the upgrade is a real pita!!! I carry around a spare cable in my trunk I got for 20.00 bucks. So far so good, but I have to say the feel of the hydraulic is nice, but the cost and install are high... My viggen p/p and spec 3 disk holds my stage 6 with 400 ft-lbs, spins at 75mph in third gear:cheesy:

My 2 cents,

John
 
#9 ·
John Z Williams said:
Like stated, you run the risk of breaking a clutch cable. I have been running the viggen pp and spec stage 3 disk from gs. for almost 6 months now with a cable. The feel is not as nice as hydraulic, but the cost of the cable is 50.00 bucks and the work to do the upgrade is a real pita!!! I carry around a spare cable in my trunk I got for 20.00 bucks. So far so good, but I have to say the feel of the hydraulic is nice, but the cost and install are high... My viggen p/p and spec 3 disk holds my stage 6 with 400 ft-lbs, spins at 75mph in third gear:cheesy:

My 2 cents,

John
Ok..Thanks.
 
#11 ·
G96nt said:
I have the sachs "R" (viggen pressure plate) and spec2 friction disk.. If I race, it overheats and slips...
I wish there were a stronger pressure plate. just make sure you replace the slave/T.O.B. when you do.

I never took the time to see if ACT makes a clutch that'll fit the saab. I'm sure they do... but you'd have to check the european fitments or possibly cobalt? who knows...?
Your kidding right! no no thats not good. has anyone else had this problem?
 
#12 ·
DFroelich said:
john, where'd you get the $20 clutch cable? I assume it'd be one of the manually adjust pieces from another car that fits?
I carry around a decent used clutch cable I bought for 20.00 bucks in my trunk for a back-up and the few tools I would need to change my clutch cable on the road if need be if my current new clutch cable ever breaks. The new cable works smooth and I hope it last a long time, but you never know...

John
 
#23 ·
Troll_speed said:
I learned after that there is another cable from another make (Japanese car maybe??) that fits and is apparently stronger
Anybody know anything more about this? My last cable finally died in the middle of city traffic a few thousand miles back and I'd really like to not go through that again. If anyone knows more about this, I'll get one of those and throw my current cable in the trunk.
 
#24 ·
John Z Williams said:
Like stated, you run the risk of breaking a clutch cable. I have been running the viggen pp and spec stage 3 disk from gs. for almost 6 months now with a cable. The feel is not as nice as hydraulic, but the cost of the cable is 50.00 bucks and the work to do the upgrade is a real pita!!! I carry around a spare cable in my trunk I got for 20.00 bucks. So far so good, but I have to say the feel of the hydraulic is nice, but the cost and install are high... My viggen p/p and spec 3 disk holds my stage 6 with 400 ft-lbs, spins at 75mph in third gear:cheesy:

My 2 cents,

John
Ready to order my clutch now..currently I have 3" JT, MBC, and K&N with intercooler and ECU soon to follow. Would it be fine to do the same setup as you, stage 3 Sachs disk plus viggen p/p, or, should I just go with the stage 2 disk. Help please, scared my clutch is gonna die in the very near future...
Thanks.
 
#25 ·
The part that breaks cables is the pressure plate(viggen/sachs "R"). that's the sprung part that applies pressure to the friction-disc (spec 2/3), and you're pulling-against, with the clutch/clutch cable. You'd do the same damage to a cable with a "stage 2" clutch as a "stage 3".

I've never seen the stage 3 in person, but it sounds like it's a 6-puck, ceramic, disc which IS sprung. Which makes it more drive-able than not. if it's not on a sprung disc, you may want to stay away from it, but only for drivablity reasons. non-sprung chatter a LOT, and engage very roughly.

On the other side, the stage-2, which I only glanced @ while dropping it off @ the trans-shop has a more full-faced, organic, friction-disc, which is MUCH more streetable. engages like stock, and handles as much power as a stock turbo'd car can throw @ it.

There's a little more to it, but really, unless you have intentions of getting a considerably larger turbo, the stage-2 and sachs R/viggen pressure plate are enough.
 
#26 ·
G96nt said:
I have the sachs "R" (viggen pressure plate) and spec2 friction disk.. If I race, it overheats and slips...
I wish there were a stronger pressure plate. just make sure you replace the slave/T.O.B. when you do.
I was just a little worried when you said yours overheats when you race...but then again, I'm sure you're pulling a lot more power than I am so I guess I'd be fine with stage 2...Also, is it necessary to replace the slave cylinder with this? I'd probably do the tob but I wasn't sure if I really needed to do the slave..Thanks for the help.
 
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