SaabCentral Forums banner

Is this noise what I think it is?

814 views 4 replies 4 participants last post by  prionailurus 
#1 · (Edited)
Please watch the videos
http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l200/prionailurus/?action=view&current=Potjointr.flv
and
http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l200/prionailurus/?action=view&current=Potjointl.flv

My dad and I are reckoning the 'companion flange' is dead on both sides, we call them the inner pot joints, aka inner CV joint cup (other names etc etc)
These bits...




Anyone agree/disagree? There is no play on the wheel itself, the freeplay is only in the rotary directions, so it's not bottom ball joints, steering link rod ends. The driveshafts move with the wheel, so it's not the outer cv joint or wheel hub/bearings. The 'pot' itself remains still for the wheel's freeplay distance, then the metallic bump and it starts turning with the wheel. I'm also assuming that the triple-headed part is a harder material (the pot is cast?) and so the pot is the one of the pair that wears out?

What's the expected lifespan of these? Where do I get replacements? £? Are used items a no-no? If I get a used one do I need the adjusting washer too (from the other side of the ball bearing)? My dad says to buy a little time they can be swapped with each other so that the forward thrust faces are different (but I don't see that working considering my test videos show movement in both directions)? Ooh, and how long will it take for an intermediate mechanic (done engine swaps, turbo swaps, and headgasket) to do?
This is a tad specific, so obviously I know not everyone can help, but I'm also concerned as to how long is left on them now - this is my daily driver. Sorry for the long post.
Thanks people.
 
See less See more
2
#2 ·
It would be a remarkable coincedence for both sides to fail like that, but if you're sure that's the problem:
If there's that much play in it, the Tripod will have destroyed the Driver (pot).
Your Dad is right about the thrust faces, but with that much play, it's ruined.
They usually only fail like that because of a lack of lubrication.
Used parts are OK if you check the thrust faces. Use the black C/V joint grease on the new parts.
All spacers/shims stay where they were.
 
#5 ·
Thanks for the quick replies people.
Jim: They probably haven't failed at the same time, it'll be me not noticing that one is not right, then the other one going in the mean time. I've had a few months of tramlining (little fight with the steering wheel) between accel/coast - my thought is that this is the point where there is quick switching between 'driver spins tripod' (accel) and 'tripod spins driver' (coasting/engine braking). Admittedly I've no idea how much grease is in them as I haven't had the boots off.

Marrk: are there 2 sizes for the auto? Are they model year specific? or LPT/FPT specific?

PG: it makes a very slight (transitory) noise when switching from Drive to Reverse, and similar vice versa, it makes more (louder) noise when reversing turning (like into a parking space). Difficult to describe the noise, although the cameraphone's mic pitches it up a bit I was hoping the video would sort of answer the clanking/clunking/plonking question.

Am I ok just replacing the driver flange? Or would I be wiser to get the 'worn-in matched pair' if I get used parts?
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top