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my baby is going to go through surgery

1K views 20 replies 9 participants last post by  brewtide 
#1 ·
OH man I destroyed my clutch I down shifted to first at a stop light going about 10mph and everything just felt wierd. I put it into neutral then I saw a cloud of smoke come from the bottom of the car oh man I was shocked I pressed the clutch and it was deep in there and I tried putting it into first again but I had to force it in first through third then when I got to work i played with it a little then the clutch peddal was a bit hard but it was easy for me to go through the gears. I played with it some more then everything came back but when I tried moving there was nothing no moving what so ever I felt it pull just a tad but not enought to get speed so I had it towed to my house. I need to make sur that my clutch is demolish because I don't want to get rid of the car if its a tranny because it'll be hard for me to find a new tranny if it is so please tell me its the clutch I have experience replacing the clutch my baby needs me
 
#3 ·
If the pedal stayed down, sounds like a hydraulic problem. Easy and cheap if its the clutch master, expensive if its the slave since you have to take out the tranny to replace, and once you are there, may as well do the entire clutch and rear main seal.


Unfortunately, it sounds the slave went, spilling hydraulic fluid on the exhaust/cat which explains the cloud of smoke.
 
#4 ·
When you downshifted into 1st, you spun the clutch too fast while it was released, and it flew apart from centrifugal force. Replace the clutch.
I saw this most often when customers were pulling up to a toll booth.
 
#6 ·
Not at 10 mph. A disintegrating clucth from overrevving is almost (perhaps completely) unheard of.


Most likely cause is sudden failure of the release bearing which will give the symptoms you describe. Sould be pretty noisy when the clutch pedal is depressed. If the clutch is not noisy then you have probably blown the release bearing slave cylinder seals which would result in a cloud of white stinky smoke from vaporizing brake fluid. You should also see brake fluid under th car and your brake master cylinder reservoir will be low on fluid and getting lower.

This is bad news because you should replace the entire clutch even if only the release bearing or slave cylinder is gone. The big ticket is the labour to R&R the tranny.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Superaero said:
Not at 10 mph. A disintegrating clucth from overrevving is almost (perhaps completely) unheard of.
It's actually quite common. It usually only happens when approaching a toll booth, because the driver is preparing for a quick getaway. It also happens to young, inexperienced drivers coasting up to a red light, also intent on quick acceleration. It's also very common when someone is trying to bump-start in reverse.

You can hear the effect in your car: as you coast to a stop, attempt to shift into 1st. You'll hear the whine of the synchronizer trying desperately to accelerate the gear and the clutch disc. If you have the radio too loud, or don't recognize the danger from the whine, the disc, no longer squeezed between the flywheel and pressure plate, flies apart.

It's very common in trucks, with their heavy clutches and extreme gearing.

DISCLAIMER:
I can't really diagnose your car from a few lines written on my computer screen.
I have seen many blown clutches as I've described, and the customer always said " Everything was fine. As I coasted up to the [light, stop sign, toll booth], I shifted into first and then the clutch wouldn't work in any gear".
 
#8 ·
Started it up today and pumped the clutch pedal I was in first gear and let the clutch go and the car didn't stall but I got the smoke coming from the bottom again no funky smell came with it but the car will not move what so ever someone tell me thats a clutch problem and I found fluid on the groud after I pumed the clutch
 
#9 ·
Sandro said:
Started it up today and pumped the clutch pedal I was in first gear and let the clutch go and the car didn't stall but I got the smoke coming from the bottom again no funky smell came with it but the car will not move what so ever someone tell me thats a clutch problem and I found fluid on the groud after I pumed the clutch
If there's fluid on the ground, most likely the slave failed. New clutch time.
 
#12 ·
I am starting to realise the false economy of SOME of the non-saab parts.... when they start to break 2nd time round..

If the saab part is not a silly price more than the aftermarket parts, I always buy it - especially if there is even a little bit of labour involved in fitting.

The Saab slave has a proper warranty that should (in theory) cover cost of labour to fix if it fails. Ok, it's an extra £50 but I justified it when I had mine done.
 
#13 ·
skint said:
I am starting to realise the false economy of SOME of the non-saab parts.... when they start to break 2nd time round..

If the saab part is not a silly price more than the aftermarket parts, I always buy it - especially if there is even a little bit of labour involved in fitting.

The Saab slave has a proper warranty that should (in theory) cover cost of labour to fix if it fails. Ok, it's an extra £50 but I justified it when I had mine done.
Since I do my own wrenching, I look at it in terms of my time. I will gladly spend $100 more for a slave that I know will work, because if I cheap out and the slave fails, I have to take out the subframe and transmission to replace it, which is a major PITA.

On the other hand, I will buy a cheap clutch master, since it takes me less than 1/2 hour to replace it.
 
#15 ·
Sandro said:
so the best way to go is to et clutch kit and slave to be safe anything else
And, remove the flywheel and replace the rear main seal. If there is the slightest doubt as to the condition of the flywheel, if you ever had any type of clutch chatter (judder) or if the surface looks burned or crackled, have it resurfaced.
 
#17 ·
Sandro said:
I know I'm going to have to resurface the fly but does the rear main seal come with anything or do I have to get it individually
The seal is separate, about 12 dollars. Its a little tricky but not too hard. To get it out, drill a small hole in the seal, thread a sheet metal screw into it and pull on the screw with a vise grips to get it out.

To install the new one, a tool comes in very handy because the seal is hard to install straight and square. Go to a plumbing supply store, there is a standard pvc plumbing coupler (cylinder shaped)that is just the right size and costs about $4. Can't remember the dimensions, but it will be obvious if you take the new seal with you.

Oil the seal and start it in making sure its square. Put the tool over the seal and start to tap it in, checking very often to make sure it goes in square.

The flywheel bolts require thread sealant, not thread locking compound, if I remember correctly. Use a torque wrench.
 
#18 ·
Go to quasimotors in the Tech.help section for instructions on how to change the clutch. some added points

Use a 4" fence post as the engine clutch support
you can use the towing eye bolt to support the engine, drill hole through post & cut a gap in the eye bolt so it can slot through the engine lift bracket, you,ll need a nut & two large washers so you can screw up the eye bolt to support the engine.
Use a small cargo strap to support the gear box, wrapped over the 4" post & hooked into the lifting clamp on the box
Broom stick & tape works to centre the clutch when re assembling
If your planning on replacing the front disc,s, then a new disc with course emary paper glued onto it works as a square platform to lap the flywheel ( if its not too bad)

Best of all, if you can get hold of an air powered impact gun to remove the subframe bolts etc.. helps a lot

If you have a problem torquing up the steering ball joints on re assembly, lap the pin tapper in with toothpaste, should get enough friction with this
& last but not least whilst your in there, do your wishbone & ARB bushings
have fun
 
#19 ·
abusot said:
Yes, common wisdom is to get the Saab OEM slave (I got one from Eeuro and so far so good after about a year), many reports of the aftermarket failing quickly after intallation..
This is true. A prior mechanic of mine asked if he could install a NAPA slave instead of the SAAB, so save me some money. I asked him if he thought it was a good part, then go for it. Mind you, this was NOT a SAAB mechanic, just a general auto place.

1st napa slave lasted ~ 1 mile, 2nd napa slave about 2 weeks, 3rd napa slave ~ 2 months, 4th napa slave about 1 week, 5th slave was a saab slave they had ordered from the local dealer, put it in, let it set -- fluid everywhere.

"Oh, sorry, we sent you the wrong one".

6th slave cylinder is in the car and has been for 12K + miles. Genuine SAAB OEM.

Needless to say, if they see my car, they run and hide.

-bny
 
#21 ·
boon94 said:
stuck with the napa one 4 times? I hope you didnt have to pay for labor for all 6 installations :eek:

My saab OEM slave has been good for about 18k miles
Nope, they gave me a good price in the first place, $500 to install new engine (timing chain snapped on old... Awesome) and replace clutch & slave.

$500, labor, this is, which I felt was a good price for the work being done. I bought the 'new' engine + paid them for the final OEM slave, clutch, and eventually master -- THe entire clutch system has been replaced, as well as the timing chain on the 'new' engine... And now it sits in my yard, not being used... Ah, life.

-Bny
 
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