Jennifer's 1991 Red 900 SPG [Archive] - SaabCentral Forums

: Jennifer's 1991 Red 900 SPG


allessence
22nd November 2006, 02:54 PM
Hi All, Decided it was time to show what I have been up to this past year. Someone I know said I should post so here it is. I will post some pictures too if I can figure it out. Any help would be great.

1) Front mount intercooler Double pass. direct in, direct out. 11X24X3
Lowered radiator 3" to fit piping.
2) Cross member braces for added front stability
3) Opened ended APC: Basic boost 12lbs, Basic APC boost 20Lbs, max about 30lbs on 93 octane. higher on av gas or octane boost
4) Ported and polished 2.0 head, intake manifold and exhaust manifold and turbine housing.4000 rpm really comes alive. 10lbs boost at 1500rpms, 20lbs boost at 2500rpms, 30bls boost at 3000rpms
5) Garret turbo 42 A/R compressor, 48 A/R tubine vs Mitsu
6) Oil catch can made from Alum fire extiguisher
7) Updated Eprom for 3.0 Bar fuel pressure regulator and no boost limit
8) Alum flywheel with 215MM SACHS pressure plate and 6 puck disk
9) Cold air intake with 63MM tube and Oiled Filter
10) Battery relocation to trunk
11) 16" aero wheels
12) Aero electric seats
13) 2.5" exhaust with bullet glass pack muffler and split tips
14)1996 Aero front calipers with larger pads
15) Front engine mount ( rebuildable)
16) Equal lenght tube exhaust manifold
I think that covers most of it.

Up and coming mod's,
Gripper Diff Clutch Type LSD (on the way mid August)
Computer ignition( already have just figuring installation)
3" exhaust with 3" cat going to 2.5 after cat
External wastegate.
Adjustable Fuel pressure regulator
Rising rate fuel pressure regulator ( already have) just not installed
Fender Flares (carbon fiber or fiberglass not sure yet) with the ability to run up to 18" diameter tires preferably 245-45-18 or there abouts.
Oh, and a new turbo. Garrett not sure yet what I'll be looking for except high boost pressures with a good compressor map.

7-13-07 just picked up a VNT T25 Garrett turbo. Looking at installing a VNT unit on the moble.

allessence
22nd November 2006, 02:58 PM
intercooler, oil catch can and intake tube

Si
22nd November 2006, 03:06 PM
How did you lower your radiator? (edit: just had a second look at the pic's:o some serious work done there!)
I've had mine tilted for a while and have been thinking about buying a shorter fatter rad so i can run the IC pipes over it without having to lean it back.

If there is room, lowering it would also be a cool option.

PS grate minds think alike;)
install i'm working on at the moment
http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/albums/Project900T8/PIC00041.thumb.jpg (http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/Project900T8/PIC00041)

How it was set up previously
http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/albums/Project900T8/IMG_0175.thumb.jpg (http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/Project900T8/IMG_0175)

Albert Trout
22nd November 2006, 06:10 PM
Ahhh. Can't make pictures out. Too shaky. You can upload to photobucket and then tag them in for full sized pictures, by the way:) 30psi?!? Fantastic:cheesy:

What igntion system you going for?

allessence
24th November 2006, 05:07 PM
HI Don't know if these are any better. I did post them to photobucket I just don't know how to make them thumbnails.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/d5b751fd-4.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/d5b751fd-3.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/d5b751fd-2.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/d5b751fd-1.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/d5b751fd.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/5d372501-4.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/5d372501-3.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/5d372501-2.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/5d372501-1.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/5d372501.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/096db97d-2.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/096db97d.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/324416e9-2.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/324416e9.jpg

sleeper9kt
24th November 2006, 08:05 PM
That is a very interesting intercooler design! Neat-o!

Oh, and I saw the photo of the rebuildable front motor mount, any additional info on that? I'd love to make one of those, I hate failed hydraulic mounts.

philb
25th November 2006, 09:25 AM
To display pictures in the post, you need to click on the insert image button ( this one http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/images/editor/insertimage.gif)
Then paste in the direct link to the picture into that dialogue box.
For example "http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/d5b751fd-2.jpg"
No extra html should be put in the post, as it will be ignored.
So, here are your pics:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/d5b751fd-2.jpghttp://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/d5b751fd-1.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/d5b751fd.jpghttp://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/5d372501-5.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/5d372501-4.jpg

philb
25th November 2006, 09:27 AM
And it looks like 6 per post is the limit

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/5d372501-3.jpghttp://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/5d372501-2.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/5d372501-1.jpghttp://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/5d372501.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/096db97d-2.jpghttp://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/096db97d-1.jpg

philb
25th November 2006, 09:28 AM
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/096db97d.jpghttp://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/324416e9-2.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/324416e9-1.jpghttp://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/324416e9.jpg

Really nice work with the car, the front crossmember looks like an intricate assembly, it comes up with the bonnet?

allessence
25th November 2006, 05:57 PM
Thank you so much for putting the pictures in. I don't have a clue as to the added pictures. Makes for a much better view.

allessence
25th November 2006, 06:00 PM
Front upper cross member is completely removable that covers the intercooler. I wanted to be able to remove the intercooler without having to pull the bumper.

Also when I started the project I wasn't sure what direction I was taking and was almost going to go with hood latches on both sides like a 9000 and still might at some point but once I figured things out the cross member when back in and the hood closed perfectly.

allessence
25th November 2006, 06:23 PM
The front engine mount is made up of a poly universal truck cab mount. I picked the 90 durometer mount for solidness but I might try a 70 Duro to see if it dampens engine noise more.

The mount is made up from 7 pieces.

original hydro center bolt
1/4" plate
1/2 bolt

Energy Suspension Universial mount 9.4101G
Parts in Kit (supplies enough for 2 mounts or 1 and one rebuild) I paid 22.99usd
upper poly 2
lower poly 2
Bushing 2
Large washer 2

I used the original Hydraulic mounts center bolt ( no metric threading taps or dies yet) Burn this out and clean up.
weld Hydra bolt to top of 1/2 bolt grind or file to rectangular shape to fit into bottom of transmission cover/engine mount. The bolt already has a rectangular cross section from where it originally engaged the trans cover to hold it from turning but is made out of alum so when will need to be cleaned of the alum before welding. I opted to completely remove the alum and weld the the 2 bolts together. Doing it again I would leave the head on the hydra mount and weld just the 1/2" headless bolt to the to the head of the hydra unit.

The mount is 1/4 in plate, with a 5/8 hole for the bushing to go thru but still be thumb press fit, The bushing bolt is 1/2" So it's plenty strong.

I put the thicker of the 2 poly round disks on the bottom, figured it would have the higher shear loads. The engine is rock solid. doesn't move at all with the brake, 1st gear test. ( test used for bad front engine mount)

Any questions feel free to email me. I will post pictures of the parts minus the 1/4 plate and bolts if someone wants. I don't have any other bad hydraulic mounts around.

Oh, I have 20000 miles on the mount and it's still rock solid.

allessence
27th November 2006, 12:57 PM
Ahhh. Can't make pictures out. Too shaky. You can upload to photobucket and then tag them in for full sized pictures, by the way:) 30psi?!? Fantastic:cheesy:

What igntion system you going for?

Thanks

Jacobs Pro street, I'm still figuring out the install. I will post pictures once the air intake and Pro street go into the car.

But, I think I maybe switching to the MegasquirtII V3.0

Eduard
29th November 2006, 06:26 PM
Wow nice work! very clean.

do you have any indication of hp/nm?
or is that the kid in me asking stupid questions :D

allessence
29th November 2006, 07:56 PM
Thanks for the compliment,

I haven't done any dyno work yet. I'm still getting some of the bugs worked out (fuel eprom) But according to the APC work, the ported/polished head, 3.0bar reg, with the Garrett turbo Vs the Mitsu it should be around 260 or 265. I believe it's putting out more with the FMIC. The air running thru it is usually colder than ambient.
IC Temp sending units going in next week or week after.

I'll be on the dyno once I get the tuned length exhaust manifold and updated turbo in and 3"-2.5"after cat, exhaust with high flow cat.

Dyno time is expensive and I'd rather throw the money at the components for the time being.

I can tell you it will spin the tires on just about any corner even in 5th. It loves on ramps. J

Eduard
30th November 2006, 01:25 PM
right. sounds like a fair estimation.

pretty bad (as in good) nonetheless :D

allessence
17th January 2007, 03:00 PM
Hi, finished off my new headers, Made out of steel tube, 1 1/4 primary's, 17 equal length. will be going into car today.

Whach ya think? J








http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Picture006.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Picture001.jpghttp://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Picture003.jpg

Saab-Daniel
17th January 2007, 05:00 PM
Looks very very nice indeed!
Must have taken a fair amount of time to make...
Are you going to jet-hot coat it?
Daniel.

philjohnhb
18th January 2007, 04:48 AM
Really smart job. I'm dead jealous.

VikingSpirit
18th January 2007, 08:59 AM
tis a work of art!:D

unkleG'sif
18th January 2007, 09:07 AM
amazing...... drooool...... dribble ;)

isnt it the unequal lengths of the pipes in the original manifolds that give the car the "900 burble" however?
G

allessence
18th January 2007, 11:45 PM
Hi I was able to get the header in last night. Went in like a charm. everthing had plenty of clearance and the nuts were an easy install the only tight one was #1 lower nut. had to go to the arm pit to thread it on. all the other nuts were done from on top.

The car sounds different. No more burbal. Now it's just put, put, put, put, VVvvrrrooommm!!!!

Performance wise the torque curve seems to be more evened out in the lower RPMS (meaning smoother power build) up to about 4000 then it comes alive. The useable boost is coming on a little sooner as is maximum boost, about 200RPM's sooner. Anyhow, it looks really neat in the car. I will post pictures tomorrow if all goes well.

The high temp paint failed almost immediately. I don't think I'll get it Ceramic coated (cost). Was looking at doing one cheaply. Total cost less labor 250.00 (mig wire 1.5 2# spools, 12 weld els, straight pipe 4' lenght, shielding gas 80Cuft, T3 turbo flange, 3/8" header flanges cut and cleaned myself)

Labor about 20hrs, 10 hrs welding, flange manufacturing, tube setup, jig making. 10hrs worth of grinding. I used a MIG. Wish I had a tig. Maybe next year.

Already working on second generation design. Learned tons doing this one. Should be able to make it more compact and better radi in the tubes.


Thanks for all the great compliments. I was almost temped to hang in on the wall. NOT!!!

J

SteveMcqueen
19th January 2007, 12:12 AM
Wow to everything....

Saab-Daniel
19th January 2007, 04:01 AM
Wow to everything....

I'll second that...
Very very nice job man, looks awesome, and sounds like you're having fun! :)
Daniel.

allessence
19th January 2007, 08:21 PM
The fit was suprising. I'm still not used to the way it sounds. ;)

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Picture019.jpg



http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Picture013.jpg

Saab-Daniel
20th January 2007, 11:52 AM
Ahh man, you're killing me with that standard downpipe... You've made such a nice header, why not get a nice downpipe made up too?
Daniel.

Matthew
20th January 2007, 03:09 PM
isnt it the unequal lengths of the pipes in the original manifolds that give the car the "900 burble" however?
I heard an Abbott car at a rolling road day, fitted with an equal-length manifold. It still had some burble. Perhaps that wasn't exactly equal-length.

The Scooby boys fit almost-equal-length manifolds to their engines. Much better than stock, but with a bit of that classic Scoob sound.

I like the 900T burble, but I know it's due to a pants manifold. Kinda takes some of the enjoyment out of it!

allessence
20th January 2007, 10:32 PM
Ahh man, you're killing me with that standard downpipe... You've made such a nice header, why not get a nice downpipe made up too?
Daniel.

Okay, your absolutely right. No, 3" exhaust. What a bummer!!!

But, in defense:

All the major upgrades (intercooler, tube header, oil catch can, 2.5" MAF to compressor tube, front cross member supports, rebuildable front engine mount, lower cross member reworked for the lower rad) have been designed and Fabricated myself. All my own designes and some of the parts have had to be made twice to work out design changes. All of these changes have been within the last 3 months.

Besides all that has been the installation of Swedish dynamics Alum flywheel, 6 puck friction disk, Red series head, Red series APC, Eprom.

And on top of that in the last year includes: Front heat sheild, relocating the battery to the trunk (series 78 battery) needed to fab rear hatch floor to fit battery. New steering rack, port and polish turbine housing, complete rebuild of the right rusted lower spring tower and floor pan, Rusted left rear inner fender, New custom made (myself) cat back system, 3 gauge installation, Aero seats, front brakes, Etc, etc.


All this plus my regular job and then my other 2 part time jobs plus time for family and friends.

And well Money is easy to spend and hard to come by. But I have the header pipe and full exhaust system in the near future as well as, dual injectors, Megasquirt II, 3" to cat, 2.5 from cat, 17 or 18"x 10" rims with custom carbon fender flares, 245or 265 wide tires, custom dash with all the bells and whistles. I'm going for a reliable 300+ HP.

So, Thats my excuse. Thanks Jennifer

Oh, I miss the burble myself:cry: . But I have to remind myself this is a far better sound. It does sound really strange when I get on the gas or at idle. :lol:

Boosted
20th January 2007, 10:57 PM
I have always wondered how Saabers with a header on their car check their transmission oil. I don't see the dipstick anywhere.

allessence
20th January 2007, 11:10 PM
SAAB 900 model years 90-94 manuals didn't have the long dipstick of the earlier models. They have a short one directly threaded into the trans side cover 19MM head. I prefer the older style with the long dip stick. Makes for a much easier way of checking oil level as well as adding oil during trans oil change.

I use a hand operated commercial oil pump that goes onto a 5Gal pail, and add the oil from the bottom of the car even before the new header was put on.


J

shaverjeff
20th January 2007, 11:43 PM
SAAB 900 model years 90-94 manuals didn't have the long dipstick of the earlier models.

..and then there are us 4-speed folks that dont have a dipstick at all...just a plug...

Stunning car by the way. theres nothing better than doing the work yourself.
How do you like you SD flywheel, apc, eprom etc.
I installed the flywheel, red series apc, injectors, eprom, but I haved drivin my car yet as i just finished the tranny swap. Any numbers on the car?

allessence
21st January 2007, 12:09 AM
I love the Swedish dynamics guys. They are very helpful and informative. And their products are top notch. Most of their stuff comes with a warranty and they will reflash the eprom for no charge ( Once I think) if there is a problem or if it needs tweaking. If you running pretty much stock or even some mod's their eproms are really close to where they should be. They have a ton of experience especially if you running all their products. Then they know to the T what you have.

Your going to love the car. It's going to be like a whole new ride. Super smooth, and powerful. Keep you eye on the speedo going into the corners. The car will probably be so smooth that you don't realize you going 90mph into a 75mph corner.

I had built high performance SAAB 2 strokes and V4's previously and did the lightened flywheels with them. The 900 has a huge crank and pretty heavy internals, so the alum flywheel offers some benefit to spool and rpm increase but not nearly as much as the 2 or 4 stroke SAABs. They were almost instant in engine rpm response. The 900 is a little sluggish in comparison but is also a much stronger design. The V4 or 2 stroke for that matter couldn't handle 275HP without major crank work. The SAAB 900 cranks will handle 350HP Range pretty easily probably more.

If money permits I'll be putting in titanium connecting rods with lightened/balanced crank assembly. then the alum flywheel and crank assembly should really fly and feel more like the 2strokes or V4's. Hoping since it won't be a cheap upgrade.

I haven't dyno'd the car yet but with all the mod's I've done I've been told it's pretty close to if not a little more than 270HP.


I'm waiting till I go into the Megasquirt before dyno work. Dyno can be expensive unless you do it at a group day.

I had a 1978 Turbo that had a dip stick on the 4 speed I wonder if it was an upgrade after the fact?

Jennifer

shaverjeff
21st January 2007, 01:29 AM
The 4-speed i have is also out of a 99. i think it was a 1979 one? Its a chillcast that was built by a shop out in california. I think they replaced the original inspection covers as they are all new steel and not thicker aluminum ilike I've always seen maybe thats why it didnt have a dipstick. I tried swapping the thicker aluminum plate but the bolt pattern was off a little.

I have had "ok" experience with the sd guys aside from the flywheel. I was charged second day air and recieved my flywheel 30 days later.
I was also never informed i had to grind off my transmission casting so it wouldnt damage the flywheel. After I called the guys they just told me they "forgot" to put the memo/disclaimer in the box...

allessence
21st January 2007, 10:36 AM
I'm just one day away from the Swedish dynamics guys so shipping is usually reasonable and turn around it only a couple of days.

I didn't recieve any instructions of removing the tabs either. But, it was only 15minutes longer to assemble once I figured out what the problem was and just die grinded the tabs off. In all my years of rebuilding SAAB transmissions I don't know of one time that the tabs have been used with bolts.

I also punched the flywheel with a 0 and 20 degree mark to make timing easier. I have a digital advance timing light so I can adjust for 0 degrees no matter where the mark is but they sent the flywheel with just a sharpy (magic marker) mark which came off when I washed the flywheel with brake clean before finial assembly.

If you call them and really gripe about the shipping they may have split the difference. I've found them to be very reasonable, But then again I've spent close to 3000 in the last year with them. Maybe the addage that money talks is more true than I'd like to believe.

anyhow, when I was first starting out to fix my SAAB, I must have talked with them for hours on the phone. Really probably close to 20hrs by now.

Jennifer

allessence
31st July 2007, 11:43 AM
Battery relocation:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Picture111.jpghttp://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Picture110.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Picture108.jpghttp://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Picture109.jpg

allessence
31st July 2007, 11:44 AM
Bulk head connectors:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Picture104.jpghttp://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Picture103.jpg

allessence
31st July 2007, 12:15 PM
More updates: installed July 9th 07


Forge RS BOV Kit. extremely well made. highly adjustable. The TurboXS valve I used to have doesn't even compare to the quality of the Forge unit.

2" piston, Recirc (single piston)or atmos (dual piston in atmos use)

Link: http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/content.asp?inc=product&cat=0006&product=FMDVRSR

They don't list the kit anymore but it came with all the fittings for different hoses and pistons and the whole works.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Picture118.jpghttp://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Picture119.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Picture120.jpg

The valve responds very quickly and makes a chirp/whistle sound even with recirc mode.

Just and excellent product.

allessence
31st July 2007, 12:43 PM
Okay just purchased a VNT25 turbo. This a varible nozzle/geomentry turbo. If you look really hard at the turbine throat you can see the veins in the open position.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Picture113.jpghttp://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Picture114.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Picture117.jpghttp://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Picture116.jpg


this is a little small for the SAAB with the Boost I'm looking for. A GT3063VNT I think would be about the right size. Had an opp to buy one on the bay this past spring but was low on funds.

So, opted for the 25 for reasonble money to check out.

It has a compressor .48A/R and a turbine A/R .64

Here are some links:

http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_vnt.html

http://www.houlster.com/amigo/turbo2/VNT-25/vnt25.htm

allessence
31st July 2007, 12:47 PM
7-17-07

Nothing special here. just filter replacement. The last K&N came apart 5 or 6 times and had to epoxy it. Finially had enough so decided to find something else.

This is an S&B and has a inverted cone inside and a bell mouth outlet to the AMM. Nice filter for he money. Seems to be put together better than the K&N.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Picture112.jpg

Looking for better option. I will be modifing the SAAB factory airbox and filter to a cold air intake with ram air funnel and staight to the AMM.


Also will have 3" in pipe with bleed valve so the pipe will never suck water into it if in a puddle.

nnamssorxela
4th August 2007, 11:08 PM
wow, can you do mine too?
-alex


haha, that is an amazing car. I know I'm going to get flamed for this but have you ever had trouble with that much power in a FF car? I mean even my "stock" one....

Boosted
4th August 2007, 11:33 PM
Do you have that VNT25 turbo bolted on yet? Any first impressions?

saabingmad
5th August 2007, 01:59 AM
I heard an Abbott car at a rolling road day, fitted with an equal-length manifold. It still had some burble. Perhaps that wasn't exactl equal-length.

The Scooby boys fit almost-equal-length manifolds to their engines. Much better than stock, but with a bit of that classic Scoob sound.

I like the 900T burble, but I know it's due to a pants manifold. Kinda takes some of the enjoyment out of it! could you record your new sounds , i so wanna hear it, i love the custom work youv done to your saab, you are truly one dedicated saabber.,

allessence
5th August 2007, 10:23 AM
Do you have that VNT25 turbo bolted on yet? Any first impressions?

Haven't fitted it yet. Won't be for awhile. the T25 is smaller than what I want. I need something like 491CFM at 28lbs boost @ 4500rpms and the T25 is smaller than the T3. So, I will have to find a bigger compressor wheel, and housing or a larger VNT series.

I'm running the T3 way out of it's efficiency range now. WAY OUT.

The Dodge shelby VNT crew had these fitted to 2.2 and 2.5liter engines running 15lbs of boost with decent results. They say at higher boost pressures the shafts break because everything is made smaller and lighter for instant response.

Plus just bought a house and will be dealing with other projects. I will post more once I get things going.

allessence
5th August 2007, 10:41 AM
wow, can you do mine too?
-alex


haha, that is an amazing car. I know I'm going to get flamed for this but have you ever had trouble with that much power in a FF car? I mean even my "stock" one....

The only problem I had was relearning how to drive it fast. The time frame at high speed was different because it went from a boeing 747 to a fighter jet in terms of smooth power. So, the corners come up a lot sooner and because of the smoothness you can be caught off guard since the speed is a lot higher. Typical example is a corner I always drive around: used to only be able to take it at 70MPH because I couldn't get anymore out of the car. Now, I can take it at 90+.

The first time I did this, I gave a quick look at the speedo to find I was doing 90 when I was expecting 70+ and nearly pooped my pants. I had some quick correction to do but managed to keep it on the road with only a like heart attack once I slowed to 40mph and took several deep breaths. and a big sigh.

As for putting the power down to the road, you adjust on and off throttle to how the car is responding in the corner. There are other stratigies one can use to. like going into the corner with the speed you want when you come out, and then there is accelerating thru the corner and then there is brake in, throttle out. I like the speed in, consistant speed thru and out. and the accell in and out of the corner.

The other issue as you know is transmissons. I just plan on rebuilding them, and keeping and extra on hand.

allessence
4th September 2007, 10:30 PM
No LSD yet but getting close. Here are some pictures and I'll post pic's of Rosie's black eye later.

Hi Jennifer 2 pictures of the completed bodies, I will take some pictures of
the sunwheels later today. Best rgds Tom
Rather large files. No ship date as of yet. Anyhow, my beautiful Red Rosie got punched in the eye today at a parking lot.

Came out to find this nice lady had written down the offenders plate number and the bumb had noticed her taking his plate number and decide to stick around to get it straightened out. Rosie will be okay, it's just been tough with the move. But we are finially in the new house and I have started to organize the garage to some form of reason. My 3" exhaust pipe pieces are sitting in a pile and maybe in the next week or 2 will be able to get the exhaust together since up to this point has been just hanging on via a weld here and there.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/DSCF1768.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/DSCF1767.jpg

c900
5th September 2007, 06:25 AM
The fit was suprising. I'm still not used to the way it sounds. ;)

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Picture019.jpg



http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Picture013.jpg

This sooo much makes me want to get my 89 16V n/a car fitted with my spare T3 to see how it performs. Don't have a turbo exhaust manifold, etc. at the moment though I have just about everything else, including an elbow and downpipe that I can salvage from my 83 turbo 8V car that's being junked.

Craig.

allessence
5th September 2007, 09:08 AM
Hi Craig,


the NA saab 2.0 engine feels pretty good with a turbo. Run the boost a little lower or put varible water injection in and turn the boost up. A FMIC helps tons but if you keep the boost down the engines just feel great.

The T16V is a dog off boost in my opinion (everyone knows I have more than one) but as pointed out else where on this forum can be helped by secondary engine management like Megasquirt.

Nice website by the way.

c900
7th September 2007, 05:26 PM
Hi Craig,

the NA saab 2.0 engine feels pretty good with a turbo. Run the boost a little lower or put varible water injection in and turn the boost up. A FMIC helps tons but if you keep the boost down the engines just feel great.

Thanks for the advice. I have one spare rebuilt T3 (oil-cooled only) which has not been installed since the rebuild. It was originally going into the 83 turbo until I found out how bad it's cylinder head was corrosion-wise. Now that I have the 81 turbo the spare turbo is free. It's either going into the 89 16V n/a car or my 83 8V n/a car. 89 car is registered but I don't have all the other items I'd need (different exhaust manifold, downpipe, bracketing, etc.). I have a spare oil feed pipe (off the 83 turbo's engine), etc. though and can probably use the turbo bracketing off that too.

The T16V is a dog off boost in my opinion (everyone knows I have more than one) but as pointed out else where on this forum can be helped by secondary engine management like Megasquirt.

Yeah lots of people are going the Megasquirt way. I like the fact I can build the MS unit myself. I'm an electronics buff from way back (early 80's strangely enough! Right when Saab were making our early classic 900's!) and like to build things myself if I can.

I find the 16V n/a engine in the 89 car really good. But what helps is that the auto transmission is excellent. I'd like to see how much better it would be with a turbo fitted to the engine, even if it's limited to only about 5 to 6 psi of boost. I wonder if the stock EZK electronics would cope with managing the engine once a turbo is fitted to it?

Nice website by the way.

Thankyou! At the moment I'm focusing on getting a new job and working out the installation of a T16 intercooler into my 81 turbo car.

Craig.

allessence
8th September 2007, 11:08 AM
Here is a blurry picture of the new 3" mandrel bent aluminzed steel exhaust pipe kit I ordered from Jeg's. The price was 267.30 and there is enough pipe to make 2 exhaust from.

Just moved into the new house and have finially started to get the garage sorted so the exhaust should go in the next 2 weeks.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Photo_090707_001.jpg

allessence
15th September 2007, 11:28 AM
So, last week my car was hit while at a parking lot. The culprit was a GM pickup truck and the guy drove off, but a nice lady took his reg# and the guy seen her and came back.

So, the estimate to fix it exceeded the value of the car and the car was totalled. IE total lose. Haven't heard back from the insurance company yet.


http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Photo_091407_008.jpghttp://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Photo_091407_009.jpg

Saab-Daniel
15th September 2007, 12:54 PM
NOOOOOH!
That's just sad J...
Hope you are able to buy the car of off the insurance? Dosn't look in that bad a nick from where I'm sitting?
Daniel.

unkleG'sif
15th September 2007, 01:30 PM
a total loss, for the cost of an indicator and headlight?!!! :o


surely not :evil:
G

StormCrow
15th September 2007, 01:44 PM
Total loss?! Is there more damage that we can't see or are headlights £500 over there?! :o

I'm sure someone of your calibre could repair that :lol:

DanF.
15th September 2007, 02:04 PM
the hood doesn't even looked dinged?! did some claim agent come out and say that the frame was bent or something? i'd switch insurance companies for sure, because that sounds like total BS!

sorry to see it though, you have one of the nicer SPGs around.

allessence
15th September 2007, 05:33 PM
I'll try and buy it back from the insurance company, at this point I dont' have any idea of what they are considering as for an offer/payoff.

One of the neat things is with me doing the work (The 96 Fix is the business name) I get to write the reciepts and with the intercooler, oil catch can, exhaust manifold, front end work to accept the lowered rad, side supports and all if the shop was charging full price the total would be about 3700.00usd. So, if it really comes to pushing. I'll have to submit the mod's reciepts and then the other stuff from SD and so on the total would be around 10k.

I don't think the insurance company would like that. So, at least I have some wiggle room. I hate being put into a corner, but I can become a scrapper if pushed. See that, I'm all ready nervous about it.

Wish me luck.

allessence
15th September 2007, 05:40 PM
the hood doesn't even looked dinged?! did some claim agent come out and say that the frame was bent or something? i'd switch insurance companies for sure, because that sounds like total BS!

sorry to see it though, you have one of the nicer SPGs around.

Thanks.

The hood didn't get anything but a little scratch in the paint on the lower underside corner.

The inside lateral supports I put in stabilized the front of the car so the only thing that got pushed over was the front right directional, the headlight, the right side upper rad support got twisted maybe an 1/8" and the front grill got mushed and the bumper got move a little. Nothing major

The cost from SAAB on the parts: 225.00 headlight, 175.00 directional and 150.00 for front grill. The apprasier gave 1hr on the frame machine to pull the bumper back about .5". So, not sure really what was written up other than the stuff above.

Luckily the trucks rear bumper fit right between the hood and the top of the bumper and basically just squeezed in and then came back out.

c900
16th September 2007, 01:13 AM
Sorry to hear your car was in a collision.

Don't even let the insurance company take the car - it's owned by you and not them, so the insurance company cannot take ownership and sell it back to you. Maybe it's different in the US to Australia though and each state probably has different insurance laws.

The company should offer you a payout, and you should end with some sort of document to say the car is a statutory write-off that will be handy to get a refund on registration. Keep the car for parts!

Whatever you do, make sure the car is secure in your premises (if possible) and do not let anyone try to take it. Nobody else owns it except you (unless you have a car loan outstanding on it, but even then the lending company can't take the car from under your nose!).

In fact what should really happen is the OTHER person's insurance company should pay out the write-off of the car since you're not at fault!

Craig.

allessence
21st September 2007, 06:24 PM
Okay, good news the insurance company settled with some decent money and I was able to buy the car for 300.00 back.


The way it works is the insurance complany because of it's age vs the money it would take to fix it call it a rolling total lose.

Because it's an SPG I was offered decent money vs a standard turbo model and it came out to around 2k with a 300.00 buy back. In other words if a scrapper was to buy the car it would go for about 300.00 and that is what I had to pay to keep the car.

I all ready fixed the damage. Heres the pics of after
:http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Photo_092107_002.jpghttp://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Photo_092107_001.jpg

And before for a recap:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/CopyofPhoto_091407_009.jpghttp://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Photo_091407_008.jpg

The damage is really pretty minor. Some sheet metal straightening, and reinstall the lights, etc.

Luckily I had installed the reinforcement supports on the Radiator pillars and this kept the front end from twisting.

All is better with Rosie, I was really upset by the whole deal, but now everything is better. :cheesy:

Breakin5speeds
22nd September 2007, 01:14 AM
geeez considering the situation I'm surprised you even made a claim.....

Or have full insurance on.... I don't own cars that if push comes to shove I can't walk away from them....my last couple cars I bought... tweaked modded and fixed up and sold/parted out for more money then I bought them for

allessence
22nd September 2007, 08:29 AM
I was parked at a store and someone backed into me. I wasn't even in the car at the time. A nice lady saw the guy do it and drive away.:nono; She wrote down his plate number an the guy seeing this came back.

To say things have been stressful/busy would be an understatement. So, having the extra money going into winter is a god send if someone believes in such a thing.

Oh, I do have full insurance on Rosie, with a 300.00 deductable. But, this didn't effect my insurance what so ever. So, my rate doesn't go up. Yeah!!!!!:cheesy:

I used to pay 200-275 max for any/only SAAB turbos. But Rosie came along and needed a good home. She cost me 2300.00, plus all the upgrade parts as well as the knowledge gained in making her run right. Of course the extra HP doesn't hurt at all. All told she has about 6-7k in her including the cost of buying her. Not bad for a fun to drive car.

idiot_saabvant
22nd September 2007, 12:02 PM
This example of Jen's is a reason why I keep ALL the receipts. Even for oil. So should it happen that I have an insurance claim, then I have documented the $ I have spent to maintain and improve my SAAB. I had an acciedent in a truck once (not my fault) and the insurance claim was such that they did not want to include the cost of upgrades (such as exhaust pipe and injectors). I had to prove that my cost of upgrades where actually cheaper than dealer cost and installation of stock componants. Won my claim, due mostly to my documentation.


pierre

allessence
22nd September 2007, 07:20 PM
I agree, if any upgrades have been done be sure and save any and everything. The car on the open market maybe not worth much since it takes someone of great character to drive/love SAABs. So, with that in mind, be sure and document all fixing and upgrades.

If you do get in an accident and it's someone else fault you could make out better than hoped for.

I was in an accident 3 years ago in my work truck. Wasn't my fault again, but the insurance company only gave me 2300.00 for the truck. I couldn't find another truck to replace the totalled one for almost a year and then it turned out to be a piece of crap.

Had I had all the reciepts for the truck repairs and the tooling that was in the back I might have been able to get more money and bought a decent truck.

allessence
11th November 2007, 06:18 PM
Just received the Gripper clutch type LSD a couple of weeks ago and a new steel rear diff cover thanks to Luke over at SAABRALLY.com



http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/DSCF1768.jpghttp://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Photo_111007_001.jpg

The diff had some clearance issues but think I have them all fixed now. So, maybe this week or next I can get this into the car.

Rear cover pictures. This was a custom done for me by Luke from the last batch. Has extra ribs, and 2 oil fittings.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Photo_111007_017.jpghttp://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Photo_111007_016.jpg

allessence
23rd November 2007, 09:12 AM
LSD is in. took 5hrs.

Needed to redo the backlash, but otherwise was a great install once everything was in place.

Would maybe take 3hrs now.



http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Photo_112107_002.jpg

With SAABRALLY.com steel diff cover setup for oil in/oil out for the cooler and filter and pump that will go in once i have the time to fit everything:
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Photo_112107_009.jpg


My Wish list is getting smaller. Next big project is 3" exhaust.

DanF.
23rd November 2007, 01:09 PM
Your work looks awesome.

Is the dif. cover the same thickness as the other group buy that just happened on saabrally.com? I'm wondering about this because I heard that you have to use different bolts to mount the dif cover?

allessence
23rd November 2007, 04:26 PM
Thanks,


Yes, the diff cover is the last one Luke over at SAABRALLY had.

I had a few things added at my request. Like a second oil port and extra gussets.

The bolts do need to be shorter. About a .25 inches or about 6-7mm.

allessence
16th February 2008, 08:50 PM
Finailly got around to make the 3" exhaust header pipe. Still waiting on a Metalcat cat. Not sure of muffler yet, but made good progress though.

Still need to make up some non crimping exhaust clamps. Wasn't sure if I was going to use bolt and tabs to start off with but I'll probably just use the non crimpers since its less time to make.


http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Tuned%20length%20exhaust%20manifold/big%20bore%20exhaust%20system/Photo_021608_009.jpghttp://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Tuned%20length%20exhaust%20manifold/big%20bore%20exhaust%20system/Photo_021608_019.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Tuned%20length%20exhaust%20manifold/big%20bore%20exhaust%20system/Photo_021608_021.jpghttp://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Tuned%20length%20exhaust%20manifold/big%20bore%20exhaust%20system/Photo_021608_022.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Tuned%20length%20exhaust%20manifold/big%20bore%20exhaust%20system/Photo_021608_024.jpg

allessence
21st February 2008, 07:03 PM
Just finished the exhaust completely. Here is some more pictures.



\Jeg's 3" mandrel bent hot rod kit, used 3 45's, 3 4' straights, 2 180's, 3 90's.Dynomax Ultra-Flo SS 17296 muffler.

Had to redo the second pipe in the works, I call it the secondary down pipe. The elbow off the turbo then the next pipe. Anyhow, this wasn't letting the cat sit in the postion it's in now, so had to add the extra bends into it. The extra work was really worth it though. it really made the exhaust fit where the original 2.5 system was and it sits in some ways even tighter to the bottom of the car.

Was really worried the muffler was going to be hitting the ground since it's almost 7" accross. But, so far so good and with it being a street machine it should be okay. If not I figured I would need 715cfm to flow at 315HP. So, with the turbo rapped up this brings it to around 875cfm. So, I can always just find an oval one and swap it out later.


Car sound great. Reused the stock cat, just opened the end to accept the larger 3" pipe. I have ordered a Metal cat catalytic convert 3 times but are on back order. Also, reused the existing exhaust hanger on the transmission. Had to rework it some, but for the most part it's stock. New u bolt though.



http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Tuned%20length%20exhaust%20manifold/big%20bore%20exhaust%20system/Photo_022108_007.jpghttp://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Tuned%20length%20exhaust%20manifold/big%20bore%20exhaust%20system/Photo_022108_009.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Tuned%20length%20exhaust%20manifold/big%20bore%20exhaust%20system/Photo_022108_013.jpghttp://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Tuned%20length%20exhaust%20manifold/big%20bore%20exhaust%20system/Photo_022108_010.jpg

allessence
21st February 2008, 07:06 PM
more picture of exhaust:


http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Tuned%20length%20exhaust%20manifold/big%20bore%20exhaust%20system/Photo_022108_004.jpghttp://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Tuned%20length%20exhaust%20manifold/big%20bore%20exhaust%20system/Photo_022108_003.jpg


http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Tuned%20length%20exhaust%20manifold/big%20bore%20exhaust%20system/Photo_022108_005.jpghttp://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Tuned%20length%20exhaust%20manifold/big%20bore%20exhaust%20system/Photo_022108_002.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Tuned%20length%20exhaust%20manifold/big%20bore%20exhaust%20system/Photo_022108_006.jpg

Performance wise the car spools quicker and is really smooth. I will record some exhaust sounds later.

ArmySaab
21st February 2008, 07:19 PM
Amazing work!!

Want to come over and turbo my v6 :lol:

allessence
22nd February 2008, 06:17 PM
Thanks. I've been at the metal stuff and the SAAB stuff awhile.


And sure I'd be interested in turboing a V6. Money talkes ya know and I can tell you that kind of retrofit would be talking up a storm.

Thanks again.

DanF.
22nd February 2008, 06:26 PM
Looks real nice.

How much did it cost you to make that DP?

How much would it cost to make a 3" DP for a stock T3? ;) (hint hint)

allessence
24th February 2008, 01:42 PM
The cost was somewhere around 50.00 for materials(since I bought the mandrel bent kit I had the parts all ready). The welding wire and argon was about 2.00, the equipment to cut and grind the pieces about 700.00, the lifetime experiences, oh priceless.

So, all in all was really very cheap to make. Time was about 2hrs, but really it was the previous experiences and wanting to have the least bends and smooth flow and tight up out of the way fit that created the design.

And with opening the waste gate port and making the header pipe in 2 pieces which allows for the unit to be seperated for easy transmission/engine removal I am very happy with the design and how it came out.

I didn't know Magnaflow actually made a 3" kit for the SAAB. Was it a direct fit kit?

DanF.
24th February 2008, 06:04 PM
I didn't know Magnaflow actually made a 3" kit for the SAAB. Was it a direct fit kit?



Err... Are you talking about my car? If so, then No, Jak Stoll fabbed it up when my car was at his shop. He was going to make a 3" DP for me, but he hadn't gotten to it by the time I made it back across North Carolina to pick up my car. Bummer.

allessence
24th February 2008, 06:13 PM
OOPs sorry, Yeah, I went to your DanF car page and looked at the work you had done.

I was getting excited to think someone in the big companys actually made a mandrel bent exhaust system here in the USA. Bummer.

DanF.
24th February 2008, 06:54 PM
Heh, that's fine.

I wish a big company made a DP for the c900 here in America. I still need to put one on my car.

allessence
7th November 2008, 12:12 PM
Okay so I finially broke down and went and got a 235 short head and have since ported it. I still have some finish polishing to do and then make a manifold for the huge intake ports. I'll post more info later.

Each picture represents each stage of the porting process on the intake side.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/DSC00972.jpghttp://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/DSC00973.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/DSC00974.jpghttp://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/DSC00975.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/DSC00976.jpg

IronJoe
7th November 2008, 05:49 PM
Cool, definitely interested in seeing what you do with the timing cover side & mounts.

allessence
7th November 2008, 06:18 PM
Here is a picture of the intake gasket after P&P vs other sizes B235 /B212

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Port%20and%20Polish/DSC00009.jpg



Picture of the exhaust ports

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Port%20and%20Polish/DSC00015.jpg

allessence
7th November 2008, 06:25 PM
Hi Joe, I'll just be filling in the timing cover, and haven't decided on the PS pump yet. maybe just at an alum mounting peg.

As for the engine mount I'm going to fab up one that actually fits the 2.3L bolt holes.

Now, the manifold is going to be interesting since nothing Stock SAAB will fit the big ports.

I'll post more pictures as I get things together. And I'll make them smaller to keep thing organized.

TooMany2cvs
8th November 2008, 06:41 AM
Here is a picture of the intake gasket after P&P vs other sizes B235 /B212

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Port%20and%20Polish/DSC00009.jpg

That LH lip looks _awfully_ tight - not much gasket material left, and, presumably, not a lot of material on the manifold flange, either?

allessence
8th November 2008, 09:18 AM
That LH lip looks _awfully_ tight - not much gasket material left, and, presumably, not a lot of material on the manifold flange, either?

don't know what you mean by LH lip looks tight, or not a lot of material on the manifold flange either?

allessence
8th November 2008, 09:19 AM
OH, and by the way, did I mention that a stock intake manifold won't work with this!!!!!:nono;

TooMany2cvs
8th November 2008, 09:33 AM
don't know what you mean by LH lip looks tight, or not a lot of material on the manifold flange either?

The pen mark - presumably, comparing to the stock gaskets, the outer edge of the flange - is VERY close to the cutout for the port. Is that sufficient material?

allessence
8th November 2008, 11:57 AM
The pen mark - presumably, comparing to the stock gaskets, the outer edge of the flange - is VERY close to the cutout for the port. Is that sufficient material?

No, the pen mark isn't there for comparison. It was there to check original placement of a 2.1 intake manifold vs the ports on a 235 before I cut it out.

There is plenty of room on the gasket side for the custom intake manifold. The only part that really has been shortened is the distance to the water jacket holes this has been made smaller and I may not include the weep slots as in the original gaskets.

All in all, The 235 ports were raised, but the material was still in place from the left over casting of the 212 and 234 ports.

This is the difference in gaskets I believe you were referring to.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Port%20and%20Polish/DSC00011.jpg

TooMany2cvs
8th November 2008, 11:58 AM
Gotcha.

Just one more question... Please tell me the time stamp on your camera's wrong... <grin>

allessence
9th November 2008, 04:19 PM
I do my best work in the morning. 2-3am is perfect. Just kidding. The time stamp is wrong.


I can't seem to fix it though.

allessence
20th November 2008, 07:06 PM
I received the head back from the machinist. I had a 3 angle valve job done and had the back of the intake valves back cut so they have a thinner valve disks.

This should increase flow even more. Have ordered all the materials (alum) pipe and flange and such.

Will post pic's as things come together.

Here is the manifold design's. Not great drawings but will show what I am doing.


http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/1c4eadac.jpg






http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/0315e44e.jpg

Picture of head after planing. Will to Combustion chamber volume once I have some time.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/DSC00001.jpg

here are the pictures of the short side,

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/DSC00005.jpg

allessence
20th November 2008, 07:12 PM
You can see how I reinforced the flange side. I used the material I had on hand. I would maybe just add a thicker piece next time.

Haven't added the power steering pump boss yet.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Port%20and%20Polish/DSC00009-1.jpg




Intake ports:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/DSC00019.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Port%20and%20Polish/DSC00006.jpg


Exhaust ports:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Port%20and%20Polish/DSC00021.jpg

allessence
20th November 2008, 07:15 PM
Before"::(

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Port%20and%20Polish/DSC00972.jpg


During: :confused:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Port%20and%20Polish/DSC00973.jpg


After: :cheesy:
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Port%20and%20Polish/DSC00019-1.jpg

idiot_saabvant
20th November 2008, 08:11 PM
Have you done the calculation on the length of your intake runners to see what rpm your intake pulse will make optimum torque? Are you going with a longer runner to lower when torque is made? How does this effect your turbo curve?

I've thought the same as a intake idea and came up with around 17.34 or 18.73 inches of equal length runners to get optimum torque at around 2500rpm. I wish I had access to my notes to verify. I'm traveling at the moment.

Nice work on the porting and alum welding. I like the die tryck and shall use it next time I port aluminum.

pierre

saabmatt
20th November 2008, 08:31 PM
Here are the pictures of the short side,

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/DSC00005.jpg

I did this in the summer and just a note, you need to make sure the material added to the low side/bottom of the timing chain hole (left in this picture) is not too thick or it wonít clear the chain guide and you wonít be able to seat the head down correctly.

Also it can't stick out further than the gasket as that will also hit the chain guide. :cool:

allessence
20th November 2008, 10:32 PM
Thanks Matt, I did keep this in mind. I welded in the peice before head planing to be sure it was flat. I haven't machined it back yet as it hasn't been test fitted.


Did you use a 2.3 head gasket or a 2.0? I welded enough material in to use either.

allessence
20th November 2008, 10:33 PM
Got the megastim together today as well. Getting ready to put my MSII together.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/MegaSquirt/DSC00030.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/MegaSquirt/DSC00033.jpg

allessence
20th November 2008, 10:37 PM
Somewhere between 17 and 23".


I can fit 17 easily and with the plenum will be like 25".

Fitting 23" for the runners will be pretty hard.

Really I'll know more once I get the materials in and start fabbing.

saabmatt
21st November 2008, 05:06 AM
Thanks Matt, I did keep this in mind. I welded in the peice before head planing to be sure it was flat. I haven't machined it back yet as it hasn't been test fitted.

Did you use a 2.3 head gasket or a 2.0? I welded enough material in to use either.

I used the stock B202 2.0 gasket, and am now on 6000 miles since July without issue :cheesy:

This mod is well worth the effort by the way keep going!

allessence
23rd November 2008, 12:35 PM
so how much material did you add/remove to the head in the chain gallery?

did you change the timing on the cam gears at all?

saabmatt
25th November 2008, 01:47 PM
I just used the gasket as a guide too wide and it wonít clear the chain guide, check the thickness against the B202 head itís only the edge where the guide bends out away from the block, valve timing wise itís stock but I am using the B204 cams, and you will need to use B202 sprockets.

allessence
14th March 2009, 10:11 PM
I posted this year before last to Youtube. Just running Rosie thru the gears.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zTMPu5P3tGo&feature=email

allessence
15th March 2009, 04:54 PM
17X7 straight sided rim. Now curve to the spokes of anykind.

Very little rub compared to the 16" Aero rims.

Tire size 215/45-17

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Rosie bling/DSC00152.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Rosie%20bling/DSC00155.jpg

Alex
15th March 2009, 05:32 PM
It must be the colouring of the rim and spokes, plus the way the spokes go right to the edge, because those look way bigger than 17s.

IronJoe
15th March 2009, 05:36 PM
Looks good! I agree with alex, the style definitely makes it look larger than 17".


So did you finish your T5 head conversion? Results?

allessence
15th March 2009, 08:25 PM
It must be the colouring of the rim and spokes, plus the way the spokes go right to the edge, because those look way bigger than 17s.


Hum, Whats the biggest rim size a person can get away with?

I think you guys can see why I called them stilletos. The spokes really are long and lean. Very sexy :D :cheesy: :nono;

I really was looking for something wider. Maybe some old mustang rims. Something like 17X9 or so. But these were just to good to pass up on, and my summers from last year are toast.

I will be putting together a 6" wider track come this summer. 3" each side and will be able to run wider rubber which will be super nice to put the power down.

The steering with these rims is even better than with the Aero rims even though the 16X6.5 is a narrower size. Must be the offset.

allessence
15th March 2009, 08:32 PM
Looks good! I agree with alex, the style definitely makes it look larger than 17".

So did you finish your T5 head conversion? Results?


Thanks, I saw them and said they would be a perfect fit for Rosie. It's funny but I like solid silver rims much better. I was thinking maybe I'd paint the insides of these with that really cool looking Metalic royal purple. What yea think?

No, on the T5 head. I've been fairly busy with work stuff and really have been practicing my TIG welding skill to get up to speed on the alum intake manifold which I think is going to make or break the setup with how big the ports are.

I really need to keep the air velocity up to get low end torque to build. I'm not worried about upper RPM"s.

Also, still putting MSII together. I am to the point where this is going to be more important since I have had fueling issues with the LH2.4 system in the car from day one. I've checked all the wiring, etc and it still has glitches. One month works great. next month it flattens/leans out at 4200 to 5000 rpm and then picks right back up where it left off.

When its running right it's amazing. :cheesy:

allessence
19th February 2010, 08:53 AM
Well, I have bought the bandsaw only dreams are made of and it's time to get back to Rosie.

I have started the intake manifold and will be updating as I go along.

Here is the first series of pictures with design #1 being shown. This is all speculative since I'll be fabricating it in a SAAB turbo to get all the measurement where I want them.

I have decided 24" would be the ideal length for the tubes and will be working towards this aim.

spgeebee88
19th February 2010, 12:42 PM
Hey nice work!! where are you from in MA? i never seen this car around! i dig the head work you have done

zingZACH
24th February 2010, 08:58 PM
Wow... not sure how I missed this thread. I have a weakness for 91 Tally's as they're the rarest SPG of them all (aside from the prototype). Something like 46 made?

allessence
24th February 2010, 10:16 PM
Yes Rosie is more or less getting to be one of a kind.

Sad thing is I'm going to be Cutting her up to install the AWD:cheesy: this coming summer if all goes well.


She is in need of some body work and well, I figure I can kill 2 birds with 1 stone so to speak.

zingZACH
24th February 2010, 11:29 PM
Yes Rosie is more or less getting to be one of a kind.

Sad thing is I'm going to be Cutting her up to install the AWD:cheesy: this coming summer if all goes well.


She is in need of some body work and well, I figure I can kill 2 birds with 1 stone so to speak.

Noooooo :cry:... That's a shame. Those 91 tally's are worth a pretty penny in their stock form. At least the other mods can be reversed. Oh well, it's your car. Just a sad day to see a 91 go. Being able to say it's one of less than 46 made, and probably less than half of that that still exist...

What are you going to be running for an AWD setup?

mmoe
25th February 2010, 02:59 AM
Yes Rosie is more or less getting to be one of a kind.

Sad thing is I'm going to be Cutting her up to install the AWD:cheesy: this coming summer if all goes well.


She is in need of some body work and well, I figure I can kill 2 birds with 1 stone so to speak.
I've very much enjoyed the thread so far and seeing an AWD system go in would be awesome!

As a side note, my 6 y.o. daughter names everything "Rosie", from animals to cars. She once even named the bunny hill at a ski area "Rosie", so I do get a small chuckle anytime I hear the name. :)

allessence
25th February 2010, 08:06 AM
Noooooo :cry:... That's a shame. Those 91 tally's are worth a pretty penny in their stock form. At least the other mods can be reversed. Oh well, it's your car. Just a sad day to see a 91 go. Being able to say it's one of less than 46 made, and probably less than half of that that still exist...

What are you going to be running for an AWD setup?

Make me an offer on Rosie I can't refuse and then you could be the proud owner of a Red Rosie Tally......:cheesy:


Sad day to see a 91 go......

Yup sad day to see it go like a bat out of H*** and not blow 1 transmission a year at the cost of 1200.00 each just in parts. Yeah, I don't know what I'm going to do with that extra time or money. :roll:

AWD Audi A4 5speed , or S4 6 speed if I can find a whole car for reasonable money.

allessence
25th February 2010, 08:14 AM
I've very much enjoyed the thread so far and seeing an AWD system go in would be awesome!

As a side note, my 6 y.o. daughter names everything "Rosie", from animals to cars. She once even named the bunny hill at a ski area "Rosie", so I do get a small chuckle anytime I hear the name. :)

Your very welcome.

Thanks for the tidbit about your Daughter, Bet she is just the cutest. :cheesy:

In a previous life she must of had some very loving exchanges with someone named Rosie. The statement our past becomes us seems fitting. :D

When I first met Rosie she was a beautiful SPG but very obstinate. Took 2.5 years to get her to run right after the previous owners just thru money at her.

Now she is a fine girl though the transmission stuff has got me at wit's end. I can say in and out is a day job though as much fun as getting a limb cut off. :nono;

zingZACH
25th February 2010, 04:30 PM
Make me an offer on Rosie I can't refuse and then you could be the proud owner of a Red Rosie Tally......:cheesy:


Sad day to see a 91 go......

Yup sad day to see it go like a bat out of H*** and not blow 1 transmission a year at the cost of 1200.00 each just in parts. Yeah, I don't know what I'm going to do with that extra time or money. :roll:

AWD Audi A4 5speed , or S4 6 speed if I can find a whole car for reasonable money.

You can have well over 300whp with a c900 trans as long as you shift gingerly, have a slow spooling turbo, steel diff cover, don't drag race it, and possibly a tranny cooler. Granted, an AWD c900 would be cool to see (like Gustav's 99), but it is sad to me to see a 91 tally get cut up. It's like seeing a Monet get touched up or painted over lol. :lol: Nothing personal, I'd just rather see it happen to a c900s or base model... ;).

And I don't know where you're spending 1200 dollars for tranny's... :o

TooMany2cvs
25th February 2010, 04:41 PM
but it is sad to me to see a 91 tally get cut up. It's like seeing a Monet get touched up or painted over lol. :lol: Nothing personal, I'd just rather see it happen to a c900s or base model... ;).

<scratches head>
But it's just a c900 that happens to be red and happens to have a bit of tupperware slapped onto the sides...

zingZACH
25th February 2010, 04:47 PM
<scratches head>
But it's just a c900 that happens to be red and happens to have a bit of tupperware slapped onto the sides...

And people pay good money for that bit of tupperware ;)... Fact is, she's driving the 2nd rarest of c900's in the USA. Yes, I know it's just a c900 with some added bits, but so is a MCY Viggen. I guess I just like rare, unique cars. I guess people will either get it or they won't.

TooMany2cvs
25th February 2010, 04:59 PM
And people pay good money for that bit of tupperware ;)...

Great. I'll get a couple of sets and send 'em over, we can split the profit. Deal?

I guess I just like rare, unique cars.

It might be rare now, but it'll be unique when it's done.

zingZACH
25th February 2010, 05:05 PM
Great. I'll get a couple of sets and send 'em over, we can split the profit. Deal?


Not so much the kit, the car itself... Granted, the kit is worth only 300 bucks, the added value for an SPG over a turbo model is a few grand... let alone this one. And here in New England, finding a rust free one is worth even more.

TooMany2cvs
25th February 2010, 05:07 PM
Not so much the kit, the car itself... Granted, the kit is worth only 300 bucks, the added value for an SPG over a turbo model is a few grand...

Plenty of profit for us, then...

allessence
25th February 2010, 07:33 PM
You can have well over 300whp with a c900 trans as long as you shift gingerly, have a slow spooling turbo, steel diff cover, don't drag race it, and possibly a tranny cooler. Granted, an AWD c900 would be cool to see (like Gustav's 99), but it is sad to me to see a 91 tally get cut up. It's like seeing a Monet get touched up or painted over lol. :lol: Nothing personal, I'd just rather see it happen to a c900s or base model... ;).

And I don't know where you're spending 1200 dollars for tranny's... :o

Okay, when you right your right.

I'll just offer this up. If you are ever in the area, I'd be happy to take you for a spin.

1000.00+ just for parts.

If you have any extra 89-94 5speeds I'd be interested in a few. Maybe if I had 5 or 6 good ones on the shelf maybe I'd just keep stock. :cheesy:

allessence
25th February 2010, 07:39 PM
And people pay good money for that bit of tupperware ;)... Fact is, she's driving the 2nd rarest of c900's in the USA. Yes, I know it's just a c900 with some added bits, but so is a MCY Viggen. I guess I just like rare, unique cars. I guess people will either get it or they won't.


I used to be that same way. I own 2 gt850's, 1 monte carlo 850 and I wouldn't ever think of hacking into them.


Do you have a good Donor 900 for cheap that I could install the AWD in???

zingZACH
25th February 2010, 07:40 PM
Okay, when you right your right.

I'll just offer this up. If you are ever in the area, I'd be happy to take you for a spin.

1000.00+ just for parts.

If you have any extra 89-94 5speeds I'd be interested in a few. Maybe if I had 5 or 6 good ones on the shelf maybe I'd just keep stock. :cheesy:

I've been in and driven a few c900's pushing over 300whp... I've even helped build one ;). I know what they feel like. My best friends old SPG would lose traction in 4th gear with Parada's on dry pavement. :) But he didn't eat up trannys. IronJoe also has a 335whp c900 vert that is fairly good on trannys. The main thing that kills c900 trannys as I'm sure you know is the instant torque from a fast spooling turbo. Rolling onto the throttle and having a big slow spooling turbo helps them.

And yeah, I have a few trannys kicking around including a 4 speed in my garage, but I'm saving those for my next build :). I have had many good trannys come out of parts cars that were only 200 bucks. Or you could get em for the scrap yard for the same price.

Where in MA are you? I'm in Claremont, NH... not too far away from Mass and my dad is in West Newbury, MA.

As for a donor c900, I have one with some rust lol... Unfortunately, even finding a rust free shell around here is proving difficult. Best bet is to look at craigslist for a 900S or something in the south for a rust free donor. I've seen some clean c900's pop up for under 800 dollars on there. I do respect what you're doing a lot, and it's very cool how you're thinking outside of the box, don't get me wrong ;).

allessence
25th February 2010, 07:50 PM
Cool, I'm in Rutland, MA.

And everything you said is true. Reduce this, and that, and that, raise max torque to such and such rpm.

What is the fun in that?

I'm not into it for big numbers. HP or torque, I'm into how it feels when you are driving it.

Rosie isn't fast by any means. And I doubt in her present shape she is pushing anything over 250-280maybe. But it's how it's being applied. Twisty turny's with whupdy doo's and the like.

Here is what I am really after::

I want to hop in Rosie or any other SAAB and lay it down and simply have it go Yeser re Mam. This is the most exciting thing of all. Not wops there goes another one.

By the way I know a guy who, does all the evils to a SAAB 2.1 5 speed as well as an 2.0 automatic turbo I fixed up for him and he doesn't go thru trainies. Go figure.

zingZACH
25th February 2010, 08:06 PM
Cool, I'm in Rutland, MA.

And everything you said is true. Reduce this, and that, and that, raise max torque to such and such rpm.

What is the fun in that?

I'm not into it for big numbers. HP or torque, I'm into how it feels when you are driving it.

Rosie isn't fast by any means. And I doubt in her present shape she is pushing anything over 250-280maybe. But it's how it's being applied. Twisty turny's with whupdy doo's and the like.

Here is what I am really after::

I want to hop in Rosie or any other SAAB and lay it down and simply have it go Yeser re Mam. This is the most exciting thing of all. Not wops there goes another one.

By the way I know a guy who, does all the evils to a SAAB 2.1 5 speed as well as an 2.0 automatic turbo I fixed up for him and he doesn't go thru trainies. Go figure.

Well, I can assure you they feel great while driving... Jeff Proposki's SPG is amazing in the twisties as was my friend Brian's SPG... And oh boy, get em on a straight and it's even more fun. :lol: :o.

All evils to a 2.1L 5 speed.... sounds like a guy I know named Matt :lol:.

But in all reality, it seems that the bigger turbo you go with the better it is on the tranny. I blew a stock tranny under the stock turbo in my SPG. My friends SPG blew several before putting in his big super 60/63 turbo... then all was good.

spgeebee88
26th February 2010, 08:10 AM
But in all reality, it seems that the bigger turbo you go with the better it is on the tranny. I blew a stock tranny under the stock turbo in my SPG. My friends SPG blew several before putting in his big super 60/63 turbo... then all was good.

X2 bigger the better my Holset comes on so smooth and powerful its ridiculous :evil: but the biggest issue is finding traction....

allessence
26th February 2010, 08:30 AM
X2 bigger the better my Holset comes on so smooth and powerful its ridiculous :evil: but the biggest issue is finding traction....

Finding traction hard at what RPM???? Posi in the car??? What size tires??


Any yes, as we all know it's torque that does the tranny's in. and it's Torque that make the car feel responsive and fun to drive.

If we raise the torque curve this should technically make for longer lived transmission.

I've been down the formula road. Figured out this and that.

Just bought a Garrett 3063KLV.

Today I go and look at a 2000 Audi Quattro A4 to buy.

Well then guys, just sit back and enjoy the ride, because I am going to be having more funky project going on. :cheesy:

zingZACH
26th February 2010, 12:25 PM
Finding traction hard at what RPM???? Posi in the car??? What size tires??


Any yes, as we all know it's torque that does the tranny's in. and it's Torque that make the car feel responsive and fun to drive.

If we raise the torque curve this should technically make for longer lived transmission.

I've been down the formula road. Figured out this and that.

Just bought a Garrett 3063KLV.

Today I go and look at a 2000 Audi Quattro A4 to buy.

Well then guys, just sit back and enjoy the ride, because I am going to be having more funky project going on. :cheesy:

It's not the amount of torque that kills the tranny, it's how fast and abrupt it hits. You could have 400wtq and be fine on the tranny as long as it came on smooth and not all at once.

allessence
26th February 2010, 12:31 PM
It's not the amount of torque that kills the tranny, it's how fast and abrupt it hits. You could have 400wtq and be fine on the tranny as long as it came on smooth and not all at once.

How true, how true, Thanks for clarifying.

Is there a way to do this??

zingZACH
26th February 2010, 12:36 PM
How true, how true, Thanks for clarifying.

Is there a way to do this??

A good fuel management, tune, and a big snail... Look into Holset HX35, Garrett GT30, Turbonetics Super 60/63, etc... There are plenty of turbo's out there, you just have to decide what kind of power you're looking for and when you want it to decide what one you want.

As for fuel managements, Megasquirt or Trionic 5. There are others, but these are the 2 most documented choices, so it'll make your life a lot easier.

spgeebee88
26th February 2010, 03:57 PM
Finding traction hard at what RPM???? Posi in the car??? What size tires??

Today I go and look at a 2000 Audi Quattro A4 to buy.

Well then guys, just sit back and enjoy the ride, because I am going to be having more funky project going on. :cheesy:

tipicaly 2cd, 3rd, then ive allways ran out of road.. no welded diff yet, 195/45-15 running them more for the 45 aspect ratio in reference to gearing

your not going to want a A4, its easier to do a Audi 80/90/100 because of the way the rear suspension is set up, they have struts and the A4 98+ have like this weird wish bone set up and the bolt patterns on a 80/90/100 are closer to a C900 than the A4s 5 bolt hubs. not saying you can use a A4 i think it would be easier to go w/ the 80/90/100. i ve done alot of research on this, as soon as i get set up at my new house iam cutting the floor out of the race car and going AWD.

if ya wants some ideas on C900's and big turbos you can check out my build thread..http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=161575

IronJoe
26th February 2010, 05:49 PM
How true, how true, Thanks for clarifying.

Is there a way to do this??


I'd say the best way would be to have a sensor that detects what gear you're in. This way you can tune boost-per-gear, similar to what Saab did with the Viggen to limit torque steer. The torque was electronically limited in gears 1 and 2. Going a step further, limiting not only the "peak" torque but having a boost curve itself for each of the lower gears would be the way to go. That way the onset of turbo spool would soften the blow.

You could have a really fast machine this way - experiment with the maximum boost you can achieve in each gear without wheelspin, and have that be your max on the map. Say, 10psi first gear, 14 second, 18 third and full boost in 4-5... However the testing would work itself out.

In MS you can do this but I have not really looked into adding the sensor and how it works.

zingZACH
26th February 2010, 05:55 PM
^ That is also a great idea... :)

K-900
26th February 2010, 06:13 PM
I'd say the best way would be to have a sensor that detects what gear you're in. This way you can tune boost-per-gear, similar to what Saab did with the Viggen to limit torque steer. The torque was electronically limited in gears 1 and 2. Going a step further, limiting not only the "peak" torque but having a boost curve itself for each of the lower gears would be the way to go. That way the onset of turbo spool would soften the blow.

You could have a really fast machine this way - experiment with the maximum boost you can achieve in each gear without wheelspin, and have that be your max on the map. Say, 10psi first gear, 14 second, 18 third and full boost in 4-5... However the testing would work itself out.

In MS you can do this but I have not really looked into adding the sensor and how it works.

[random post:] I believe in the Viggen the trionic 7 (and all trionic for that matter) reads the speed and rpm's of the car to determin the gear, and justify how much boost is allowed. [/random post]

princeben
20th March 2010, 03:00 AM
7-17-07

Nothing special here. just filter replacement. The last K&N came apart 5 or 6 times and had to epoxy it. Finially had enough so decided to find something else.

This is an S&B and has a inverted cone inside and a bell mouth outlet to the AMM. Nice filter for he money. Seems to be put together better than the K&N.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/Picture112.jpg

Looking for better option. I will be modifing the SAAB factory airbox and filter to a cold air intake with ram air funnel and staight to the AMM.


Also will have 3" in pipe with bleed valve so the pipe will never suck water into it if in a puddle.

Very Interesting!

princeben
20th March 2010, 03:11 AM
Do they still make that filter for Saab because I tried to search on their site for a '89 Saab 900 and they didn't even list one available for Saab???

allessence
20th March 2010, 10:51 AM
Do they still make that filter for Saab because I tried to search on their site for a '89 Saab 900 and they didn't even list one available for Saab???

Hi, it's just a universal filter. I matched up the filter by the size with the K&N. The S&B is actually a little bit longer. Very nicely made.

I plan at some point building an air box for it to sit in with ram type air.


Once I get all my other stuff done I guess.


http://www.sbfilters.com/Store/Round-w-Flange

princeben
20th March 2010, 03:24 PM
Thanks for the link.

How much more power/ Hp does it give you?

princeben
20th March 2010, 03:27 PM
Can you remember the measurements you went with?

Alex
20th March 2010, 06:19 PM
I'd say the best way would be to have a sensor that detects what gear you're in. This way you can tune boost-per-gear, similar to what Saab did with the Viggen to limit torque steer. The torque was electronically limited in gears 1 and 2. Going a step further, limiting not only the "peak" torque but having a boost curve itself for each of the lower gears would be the way to go. That way the onset of turbo spool would soften the blow.

You could have a really fast machine this way - experiment with the maximum boost you can achieve in each gear without wheelspin, and have that be your max on the map. Say, 10psi first gear, 14 second, 18 third and full boost in 4-5... However the testing would work itself out.

In MS you can do this but I have not really looked into adding the sensor and how it works.

No need for a sensor. ECU knows road speed and rpm. Can work out the gear from that.

princeben
21st March 2010, 05:27 PM
Hi, it's just a universal filter. I matched up the filter by the size with the K&N. The S&B is actually a little bit longer. Very nicely made.

I plan at some point building an air box for it to sit in with ram type air.


Once I get all my other stuff done I guess.


http://www.sbfilters.com/Store/Round-w-Flange

Could you give those measurements? So I wouldn't have to go to another store order a K&N, match it up, and then return the K&N. Or how long did the K&N last?

allessence
22nd March 2010, 10:02 AM
Could you give those measurements? So I wouldn't have to go to another store order a K&N, match it up, and then return the K&N. Or how long did the K&N last?

Sorry I haven't gotten back to you. Just really busy. I'll check tomorrow. The K&N lasted about a year. In that time I had to epoxy it back together 3 times.

I understand, Cool, Thanks.

How much more Hp/power did it give u?


Some say that a restrictive air flow when changed to a less restrictive one will give some HP Gains.

in the case of the SAAB the air flow is plenty up to about 275HP. So, I'd say just about none. Where it does make a difference is when you start looking at the Car as a whole project.

That one item can effect another. Which ever bottleneck you remove will add to the overall HP numbers.

For shear coolness factor the outside air filter looks great. As for performance if the air filter is the bottle neck and you fix it you will get something.

RadioFlyer
12th February 2013, 11:57 AM
Time for thread revival. Jennifer, did your transmission survive all these gnarly upgrades?

allessence
12th February 2013, 04:47 PM
Time for thread revival. Jennifer, did your transmission survive all these gnarly upgrades?


Nope.. I went thru 3 transmissions in 3 years.. I decided that Rosie would stay a traditional FWD and even took the ported and Polished head off..

Since I bought the Audi A4 1.8T, That has been my primary car.. I'm putting out about 250HP with bigger turbo, alum flywheel, factory big brakes.. and a 6 speed transmission. It's a blast to drive and on the corners puts Rosie to shame... No Worries about blowing the transmission here..

Don't get me wrong I am still a huge fan of SAAB and really love Rosie, but I maxed out the HP/torque paradium and frankly got sick of rebuilding trannies.. other factor was I was building all these fancy parts in hopes of starting a full time business doing just that..

There aren't enough wacky people out there to move in a different direction.

Anyhow, Maybe this year or next Rosie will be getting a new hood and paint job and maybe a few other odds and ends.

She is still super fast but now I just take her out when I want to scare somebody..

Something most forget is. She is running stock fuel, sans red top injectors.. Stock turbo, Only modes were the head, intercooler, timing advance setup, and exhaust header and exhaust, oil catch can, intake pipe. All custom...

I have my SAAB friend who still calls me once in awhile to try and talk me into making his car like Rosie.. I just keep telling him to save his pennies..

Sometimes I think I'll sell her.. This is still up in the air..

RadioFlyer
12th February 2013, 10:17 PM
Interesting. I figured you would be blowing through trannies faster than tires with that setup. It's good for me to know though so I don't end up going down the same path. Sounds like I'm not nearly the mechanic that you are, so multiple tranny rebuilds would not be worth it.

That said, would you recommend the aluminum flywheel and FMIC mods? Those are two that I have been considering.

allessence
12th February 2013, 10:48 PM
I never do drag race starts.. I never go and just blow donuts..

I just had to much power.. I used to go out and drive around street/paved corners with the tires pointed to the center of the apex while maintaining my turn geometry.. Was pretty neat..

Well, I would say it all depends on which direction you want to go..

As most on here will tell you they are getting good HP numbers and their cars are fun to drive and they aren't blowing transmissions.

Iron Joe has some pretty impressive numbers.


I have to confess. I like my boost to come on strong 22-26 psi at around 2600-2700 rpms to redline.. The stock T3 is good to 360HP with proper intercooling..

Most guys one here are running a FMIC.. With a larger turbo you change where max boost and Torque converge so you can buffer the thump to the gear box..

The idea of direct in/direct out takes all the extra plumbing out of the loop.. This cuts down on intercooler volume.. Try to remember that a turbo charged car is naturally aspirated till it starts to boost..

The longer the lag in boost the more it is operating as a NA..

The more volume in the intercooler and plumbing the longer it take to generate pressure..

Talking turbo size.

25psi out of a t25 is the same as getting 25psi out of a T60. It's only 25psi and it is exactly the same volume of air..

It takes the same volume of air to fill the holes and to create the 25psi..

Where this starts to change is as the rpms go up and you need more volume to maintain the 25psi and as this volume goes up so does the temperature the smaller compressor is going to make since it spins faster to create the same pressure/volume.. This smaller turbo will cut the air faster and stirs the molecules faster..

Of course this smaller turbo will be on full boost at 1900rpms vs 5000rpms for the t60.


As for alum flywheel.. The faster you get the motor to turn the faster the rpms rise, the faster the turbo generates boost, the faster your NA engine becomes a turbo charged engine.

If you want more power.. Put in a really good oil catch can.. Run it at about 17" of vacuum over the entire power band. This will give you about 25extra HP right off the bat.. Just be carefull not to pull to much vacuum or else you'll pull the oil vapor right out of the engine and you'll score cylinder bores.

If you have a Mitsu in your car dump it for a T3. Also move to an 89-94 exhaust manifold and port and polish it. When you polish it make it glass smooth inside.. You'll get full boost right around 2200rpm.

RadioFlyer
12th February 2013, 11:17 PM
Wow... awesome writeup! Can you explain the oil catch can? Call me stupid, but where and how do you make that happen? Why the T3 turbo over the Mitsu? When you port and polish your exhaust manifold, do you enlarge the openings on the manifold and the head, or keep them stock size and just make them smoother? Same question for the intake manifold - enlarge the openings, or just smooth? Would a 2.1L intake manifold with a 2.0L head ported to match be a good idea to go along with the ported and polished exhaust manifold? And with the alum flywheel, did you find that to be worth it alone, or was it best left off unless accompanied by the other lightening mods? And the larger exhaust - I've heard that you really only need a 3" downpipe and the rest can be 2.5" - is that accurate?

allessence
13th February 2013, 08:26 AM
Look back thru my pictures. You'll see the alum canister with all the hoses going to it..

In the saab it uses and active vacuum when it runs NA and then uses a scavenging system while on boost.

The scavenging system is lame.. the engine will only pull about 2-5 in vacuum with the stock scavenging system.. this is enough to keep the engine from springing oil leaks everywhere while on boost but not the best for power..

the way and engine works is.. the piston rings close by a pressure differential. you have the pressure of compression on the top of the piston.. and a lower pressure in the crankcase.. If the pressure was the same the rings wouldn't seal at all.


So, the way to get more HP is to help the rings seal by creating a greater pressure differential.

thus even 10 inches of vacuum while on boost and you'd be amazed at how much more power the car will make..

Problem is how to make this happen when it's supposed to..

Took me lots of testing to finally achieve what I was after.. I went so far as to boost 29Psi on 93 octane, stock motor pulling 25" of vacuum. the vacuum was to high and pulled the oil vapor right out of the engine..

The car idled just fine, drove great.. Only problem was the pistons were scoring the bores.

I did this for about a week not realizing what I was doing.. I toasted the motor.. when I took it apart since it would no longer pass emissions testing the scoring was severe on the block. The pistons were like brand new.


Use a 2.1 intake, 2.0 head ported or 2.1 stock. The 2.0 head will port out larger ports than a 2.1 reliably. or swap to an early 2.3L head and 2.1 intake..

I'm actually surprised your asking me about these kinds of things since there is better info on the web on the best selection..

the mitsu is very restrictive small CM2 housing and generates boost quick but loses steam about 5000rpms. with the Polished and ported exhaust manifold ( don't listen to anybody... gasket match the flanges and polish the inside to a mirror sheen) the mirror sheen will disappear in a few weeks of driving and will have a fine spackled interior. Trust me.

If done correctly make a T3 start to come up to full boost right about 2200rpm to 2700 rpms depending on gear. I've done this time an and time again..

I have a couple of late model exhaust manifold here.. Pm me if you want me to do it..

I'd say the best and most important element I built was the exhaust manifold.. this thing is the heart of my beast.. It creates the power band it has..

Even without the ported head.. the car has 2 power bands.. 1 when the turbo comes on. right around 3 K and then at 4500rpms it's like someone hit the nitrous.. Just insane.. :cheesy:

even with a stock head..

RadioFlyer
13th February 2013, 10:42 AM
I'm actually surprised your asking me about these kinds of things since there is better info on the web on the best selection..

You know, I have found a lot of info on the web, but I've also bought a lot of c900s that clearly had a young, overconfident yet underskilled and impatient owner somewhere in their past. Rats nests of mis-connected wiring, vacuum hoses connected in the wrong spots, carcasses in the engine bay of performance experiments gone wrong, etc. So I've always found it beneficial to seek a second and third opinions from reliable sources. ;ol;

How about vacuum - I have upgraded my '90 SPG to red top injectors, 3.0bar FPR, '87 9000 red box APC, silicone vacuum hoses, and a Jak Stoll EPROM. The EPROM leveled out the mixture, and it runs and boosts great! But I've been trying to trace what I think is a vacuum leak for weeks now that causes the engine to stall whenever I depress the clutch after boosting (stalls at every stop sign or light if I don't keep it revved). I've replaced all of my vacuum hoses and couplers, and I'm still stalling. Did you replace your vacuum lines and couplers with anything special to hold them together under higher boost, or did the stock stuff hold together for you? Were there any other demons that you ran into in your SPG as you were enhancing performance (besides the tranny, of course)?

allessence
13th February 2013, 12:48 PM
You know, I have found a lot of info on the web, but I've also bought a lot of c900s that clearly had a young, overconfident yet underskilled and impatient owner somewhere in their past. Rats nests of mis-connected wiring, vacuum hoses connected in the wrong spots, carcasses in the engine bay of performance experiments gone wrong, etc. So I've always found it beneficial to seek a second and third opinions from reliable sources. ;ol;

How about vacuum - I have upgraded my '90 SPG to red top injectors, 3.0bar FPR, '87 9000 red box APC, silicone vacuum hoses, and a Jak Stoll EPROM. The EPROM leveled out the mixture, and it runs and boosts great! But I've been trying to trace what I think is a vacuum leak for weeks now that causes the engine to stall whenever I depress the clutch after boosting (stalls at every stop sign or light if I don't keep it revved). I've replaced all of my vacuum hoses and couplers, and I'm still stalling. Did you replace your vacuum lines and couplers with anything special to hold them together under higher boost, or did the stock stuff hold together for you? Were there any other demons that you ran into in your SPG as you were enhancing performance (besides the tranny, of course)?


sounds to me like a bad AMS.

As for Jaks stuff I don't know much about what he does.. It seems like he offers a decent product..

I like to deal with Swedish dynamics. Gary and Jay are Awesome.


Okay, Lets see.. I use ABA clamps only.. They were SAAB Oem in the galvi steel version.. I like the top of the line stainless version.. 45" pounds of torque.. very substantial..

I hate the so called turbo clamps.. The ones with the bolts.. They absolutely suck..

I like NGK spark plugs OEM just 1 or 2 grades cooler..

I really like the Swedish Dynamics OPEN APC box.. This box will boost until it detects knock.. So no knock it will boost right off the scale.. This is the box I run in Rosie.. Phenomenal..

I'd say your car is do for Diagnostics..

Is there smoke coming from the exhaust?
Have you put a wide band O2 on it? (how do you know Jaks eprom leveled anything out?)
What are you running for timing advance?
At what boost pressure?

What is your actual gas line pressure? in NA mode and in turbo mode? 1:1 change?

When did you replace your O2 sensor last? Are you getting the correct voltage from it?

Did you have this problem before you swapped the EEProm?

does the car have a steady idle when first started? What about when just drivng around? When was the last time you cleaned the AIC valve?

What are you running for boost?

Rosie was a basket case when I got her.. The person I bought her from thru money at her but never realized all the parts have to work together..

Took me about a year to get her sorted out..

RadioFlyer
13th February 2013, 02:42 PM
No abnormal smoke from the exhaust - though it is a cold winter here in Utah and it could be confused for a con-trail.

The car is a '90 SPG with 220k. I purchased it a year ago from a dirtbag who got it only a year prior from a guy who really took great care of it. He installed the red tops, 3.0bar FPR, magnecor blue wires, and a few other things. I installed the 9k red box and the chip. Before installing the Jak chip, it was running rough - bad idle, stumbling at boost, etc. But no stalling. I installed the chip set base boost and it smoothed everything out except the idle and started stalling. The idle is rock solid at start up and then gets bad after I've boosted for the first time. Sometimes goes bad without boosting, but worse after boost. Bad as in it fluctuates at and below about 900 RPM. Dips low sometimes and shoots up but usually stays between 900 and like 200 whenever it's at idle.

O2 sensor and gas pressure I'm not sure about - I'll have to check. I had to do a lot of maintenance on the car to correct problems from the dirtbag PO - lots of stripped wires improperly protected and secured, lots of nuts missing, and some weird retrofits. Could still be some bad grounds in there. He did do a decent job on the tranny rebuild though. I set timing to i think 16 or 20 - can't remember what the best was (I've got 4 c900s I'm working on now and get them mixed up). Vacuum advance is stock. Plugs are NGK. Boost is around 17psi max and boosts clean all the way up.

I've got a spare 55k mile engine from an 89 turbo that's in my basement as a backup. I would love to try an aluminum or at least a lightened flywheel and one of your glassy exhaust manifolds.

allessence
13th February 2013, 05:16 PM
No abnormal smoke from the exhaust - though it is a cold winter here in Utah and it could be confused for a con-trail.

The car is a '90 SPG with 220k. I purchased it a year ago from a dirtbag who got it only a year prior from a guy who really took great care of it. He installed the red tops, 3.0bar FPR, magnecor blue wires, and a few other things. I installed the 9k red box and the chip. Before installing the Jak chip, it was running rough - bad idle, stumbling at boost, etc. But no stalling. I installed the chip set base boost and it smoothed everything out except the idle and started stalling. The idle is rock solid at start up and then gets bad after I've boosted for the first time. Sometimes goes bad without boosting, but worse after boost. Bad as in it fluctuates at and below about 900 RPM. Dips low sometimes and shoots up but usually stays between 900 and like 200 whenever it's at idle.

O2 sensor and gas pressure I'm not sure about - I'll have to check. I had to do a lot of maintenance on the car to correct problems from the dirtbag PO - lots of stripped wires improperly protected and secured, lots of nuts missing, and some weird retrofits. Could still be some bad grounds in there. He did do a decent job on the tranny rebuild though. I set timing to i think 16 or 20 - can't remember what the best was (I've got 4 c900s I'm working on now and get them mixed up). Vacuum advance is stock. Plugs are NGK. Boost is around 17psi max and boosts clean all the way up.

I've got a spare 55k mile engine from an 89 turbo that's in my basement as a backup. I would love to try an aluminum or at least a lightened flywheel and one of your glassy exhaust manifolds.

contrail not included..

Max timing under full boost is what I was looking for not static timing.

What I should say is all the high performance stuff I have mentioned is a moot point.

You will need to go and fix your idle problem first and foremost..

I'd say remove the Jak EEprom and go back to as close to stock as possible.. Like I mentioned previously it took me a year of dinking around with Rosie fixing all the mistakes the previous owner did..

So, I'd look at your MAF, AIC valve and go from there.. Nice thing about the SAABs is, Gas, spark, and air is all it needs to run..

Idle is controlled by the AIC motor, Fueling MAF greater extent, O2 sensor lesser extent, Spark on the turbos is a serperate system.. I love that about the earlier SAAB turbos.


One step at a time.. Something most people don't recongnize is when the car is running right they don't give fuel pressure, engine vacuum, or anything else a looksee.. It's only when the car is having problems that they look at it..

I've found that over the years.. Keeping a journal of different stuff. Fuel pressures, oil pessures, boost pressures, Etc, etc makes it easier when something does happen because I know what is off with little research..

Once you get that stuff solved and the car is running the way it's supposed to email me back and I'd be happy to help you get some more HP out of it..

RadioFlyer
14th February 2013, 12:08 PM
Awesome. Thanks Jennifer, I'll start there and get back to you when I've got the stalling problem cleared up. Thanks!