Nick's Ruby

[nbell]

Hope this qualifies as a 'project'? I guess it is as I have plans for the car. I bought it in Aug 05, my 5th C900. The idea always was to keep it as close to stock as possible and try and get it back to a working condition (in terms of suspension, brakes and performance) as it would have been when it left the showroom. I don't worry too much about cosmetics, the car has to be a practical load carrier so will never be concourse. I say keep stock but of course was led astray by the nice people on this forum...

Work done to the car since purchase

Aug 05 - Immobilizer & remote unlocking fitted
Aug 05 - better gear lever gaiter sourced
Aug 05 - fully serviced by Mann & Woodland Hove (ran sweet after!)
Aug 05 - locking wheel nuts fitted
Sept 05 - standard filter removed and replaced with open K&N cone
Sept 05 - 3" JT downpipe, Odessey PC680MJ battery & Powerflow 2.5" exhaust fitted
Sept 05 - torn leather panel on drivers seat replaced, great job by local old car trimmer

Oct 05 - bonnet, rear bumper & inner bottom drivers door resprayed, alloys refurbished
Oct 05 - original rubber boot liner and red box apc sourced
Oct 05 - red APC had wrong connector :( but sold on ebay ok
Oct 05 - red box APC sourced from breaking Ruby fitted
Oct 05 - Kicker 4x10 speakers sourced for rear, Kicker 4x4 for front
Oct 05 - vacuum hoses swapped out for red silicon ones

Oct 05 - new coil fitted, distributor cap, rotor arm
Oct 05 - Magnecor KV85 ignition leads fitted, smoothness improved
Nov 05 - exchange turbo fitted
Nov 05 - NGK BCP7EV plugs fitted, smoothness improved
Nov 05 - Forge alloy dump valve fitted, helped dipping idle
Nov 05 - my black APC kindly modded by NUTCASE
Dec 05 - new rocker gasket, changed exhaust manifold for one less cracked

Jan 06 - fit color-coded rocker cover kindly created by 16SAABS
Jan 06 - new windscreen, realised after the RAC had wrecked the windscreen trims
Jan 06 - new MOT
Jan 06 - new oil pressure sensor
Feb 06 - various items tightened to resolve minor oil leak (1 drip/day), slightly improved
Feb 06 - sold wrong lamda sensor by lambdapower.co.uk and refund refused (gits)
March 06 - new Saab lambda sensor fitted (no change in MPG but CO2 improved)
March 06 - new Saab TPS fitted, resolved dipping idle for a short while

May 06 - serviced by A&D Yeovil, damaged (by RAC) windscreen trims changed, vibrating gearlever serviced (no change)
May 06 - one new Michelin
May 06 - timing reset locally, A&D changed it to 12 degrees, car smooth but had lost all go
May 06 - brand new Saab original AIC fitted - dipping idle banished!
July 06 - timing reset locally AGAIN - 2nd garage got it wrong too

June 2006 - Saab original 3 gauge set wired in (volts, outside air temp and oil temp)

Sept 06 - New exact spec Sachs shocks fitted to rear
Sept 06 - New Lesfejors rear springs fitted
Sept 06 - standard red box APC refitted and base boost increased
Sept 06 - Turbocomp Finnish FMIC fitted
Sept 06 - red box APC refitted, I fiddled too much with modded black one and got it off tune
Sept 06 - new AC condensor & new radiator plus top hose fitted
Oct 06 - Fit 82 degree thermostat and thermostatic rad (fan) switch
Oct 06 - aircon regassed (due to my damaging old condensor)
Oct 06 - coolant replaced including Water Wetter for cooler running (successful)
Oct 06 - refitted Nutcase-modded APC and reset pots using multimeter
Nov 06 - racing battery removed and standard one installed on left hand of engine bay under AMM
Nov 06 - change Forge dump valve spring from yellow to green (big improvement - keeps boost on)
Dec 06 - new plugs/cap/arm/wiper blades for rolling rd day- which never happened :(
Dec 06 - new Exide battery fitted
Dec 06 - upgraded to DOT5.1 brake fluid

See down post for 2007 activity...


http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k18/nbell99/milly5.jpg

[unkleG'sif]

looking good nick.
where did you source the Kicker 4x10's? How well do you rate them?
my audiobahns where good, to the point were one started buzzing due to an internal dodgy connection - right after the point had past that i'd had them a year :evil:

G

[nbell]

where did you source the Kicker 4x10's?

From www.caraudiodesign.co.uk (http://www.caraudiodesign.co.uk). Can't see them on their site now, but you could always ask them. I noticed that they buzz when the back seat is down so I don't think they are fixed in tightly enough. Plan to reinforce them some day. They sound better than what was in there but I was not blown away and for that low price...the install and head unit are not ideal.

[aerobar900]

Looks good, I see you have done a lot too it. Keep us informed with how you're finding Water Wetter.

[Si]

Have you had the car on the rollers yet? ejenner has posted about one this weekend in Thurrock, which is kinda your end of the county is'nt it?

I'm hoping to get mine back on the road for mid december, i'll probably take it to a local place to get my figures, see what she's putting out.

And out of interest what have you done with your origional IC?;)

[nbell]

Hi Si. I went to that SOC show past Brum mainly for the dyno remember, but they never showed up :roll:

>>IC

Its all in the shed...I want to hang on to it until I get this heating issue sorted, just in case. From a 10 minute spin yesterday the Wetter Water is cooling it a little...testing more later today. If its good then you want the original IC? What, are you welding THREE together now?? ;)

[Si]

I want to get on with MkIII, still 2 cores, just i've got the hang of alum welding and MkII has 1 rebuilt plastic endcap and 1 welded alum one, it'll be an exact copy of MkII, exept for i'll move the inlet on the turbo side over about 2 inches as i'm having problems connecting the turbo to the IC at the mo.

Just waiting for the outcome of a union ballot on pay at the mo, if it goes through i should have an extra few hundred ££ so i may pay someone to build a core for me as with the current install i could extend the core downwards by about 6 inches.
But yep, if you are happy to pass it on in a few weeks/months i'll take it off your hands for whatever they go for. The more practice i get alum welding the better, as i would want to bugger up a core i've paid a few hundred for!

[unkleG'sif]

Si's collecting IC core's like a 1980's 10 year old with Pannini footie cards :cool:

[nbell]

Keep us informed with how you're finding Water Wetter.

It works! Car is slower to get to normal running temp, which now seems to be 40% up gauge rather than halfway. Very :cool: As per Matthews other tip I'm using a 25% ratio of antifreeze.

[Matthew]

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k18/nbell99/milly5.jpg
Ruby red. Grrrrr woof woof!

:D

[nbell]

Ruby red. Grrrrr woof woof! :D

Er - you calling my car a dog Matthew ?!? Or been on the sauce?

[nutcase]

I strongly suspect the latter!

[Matthew]

The latter ;oops: And the "woof woof" was a compliment :D

[nbell]

The latter ;oops: And the "woof woof" was a compliment :D

:lol:

So when you come home fizzed you get online and leave strange comments on Saab forums...well I guess thats better than what I do when I'M drunk ;)

[Tomarse]

he's a loose cannon that Matthew...

[woywitka]

Ruby red. Grrrrr woof woof!

http://saabcentral.com/forums/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif

http://saabcentral.com/forums/images/smilies/icon_eek.gif

[nbell]

Jan 07 - new Sachs OEM front shocks
Jan 07 - new Pagid pads & front disks & MOT
Jan 07 - new Max Power filter and swap AMM

Local garage confirmed minor power steering weep, the cause of the tiny (but annoying) leak this whole last year. Just a 12" hose to replace, they still MOTed it :D
So much for the recommended Saab indy who reckoned that the whole engine would have to come out to resolve! :nono;

Plans for the future

- Resolve power steering weep
- Fit fog lights, forest is dark in the winter!
- Refit front corner bumper trims, not on right
- Shiny Forge wastegate actuator...mmmm, shiny
- Fit accurate turbo gauge
- Rising rate fuel pressure regulator
- Stop gear lever vibrating at motorway speeds
- Get new hatch glass, as a few demister wires duff
- Permanent wire in GPS receiver and phone cradle
- Reinforce rear speaker shelves with MDF
- Swap out custom SS exhaust for standard one (after downpipe) for motorway quietness
- Recon box with type 8 primaries
- Somehow sort (caused by radio thief) two small dents in dashtop - change dash?
- Get interior fully retrimmed & new carpet for that new car smell, mmmmmmmmmm

[Matthew]

- Get interior fully retrimmed & new carpet for that new car smell, mmmmmmmmmm
:D Got any leads on buying new 900 carpets in the UK?

[nbell]

:D Got any leads on buying new 900 carpets in the UK?

Ah, there is a nice old retired car trimmer who lives in Bournemouth, I would have him do it. He just buys in the necessary material in the closest match. He stitched a new panel into my drivers seat, great job. A proper trimmers would not touch the job as too small/fiddly.

Maybe see if your local custom garage might recommend someone locally, if ebay & google does not turn up anything obvious? I found my guy via the local fabric shop (when looking for leather for the seat).

[Matthew]

The reason I asked was that the carpets are moulded to a very specific shape. It would be difficult/impossible for an upholsterer to reproduce that shape accurately.

[nbell]

The reason I asked was that the carpets are moulded to a very specific shape. It would be difficult/impossible for an upholsterer to reproduce that shape accurately.

Ahh, fair enough. I'll let you know if I spot any.

[ejenner]

You'd be surprised by what they can do when fitting carpet to a car. I've not had any estimates for c900 carpet but I shouldn't think it would be impossible. For the moment I'm replacing my worn-out Carlsson carpet with some (said to be good) carpet from 'kit' (a forum member in Southampton) I had originally wanted a professionally fitted carpet (in nice thick, plush, ect, ect...) but made some enquiries and it's generally expensive and time consuming. As I'm desparate to get my car back on the road I've decided to leave many of the little things for later. Just concentrating on the big stuff for the time being.

[nbell]

I'm replacing my worn-out Carlsson carpet with some (said to be good) carpet from 'kit' (a forum member in Southampton)

I guess the old one might be a useful template if you decided to have a company make some up. You could probably sell 5 or 10 sets if you had to make a bulk order, especially if they are no longer easily available.

I think I''m starting to get a little tired of my C900, the latest knocking issue etc, also had to get a blow by the downpipe sorted today. Refitted the original red box at original settings tonight, wound back the wastegate. Its going to feel s l o w tomorrow....found myself browsing audi estates today! The idea of something that needs little maintenance and does 40+mpg does appeal.

[philjohnhb]

There is an evil bay seller for car carpet. One of the colours appears to match that pale grey/blue that many 900s seem to have. This stuff is rubber backed and can be moulded as per the originals. It's on my to do list and at £20 for a 1m x 2m swatch it is worth the risk, just not yet.

[nbell]

Ok, I have calmed down a bit now, done some reading, and it seems perhaps I can get all my lovely boost back safely (turned off to stop the knocking) by fitting a RRFPR. As fitting those seems within the abilities of a novice ;)
So which one to choose? I *think* my car has the 3.0 bar one as standard, partsforsaabs have a 3.3 one, but that does not say its rising rate. And is a 10% improvement worth £140 :o

If anyone can suggest a decent model would be very much appreciated. Abbot have offered a 3.3bar one also at £155+vat.

This FSE one (http://www.europerformance.co.uk/pages/products/product_info.mhtml?id=29305) looks the cheap option at £65 ex gauge.
This £90 one (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SAAB-900-9000-9-3-9-5-inc-V6-Turbo-Power-Boost-Valve_W0QQitemZ130015047056) on ebay comes with a gauge for an extra £20.
This 99p one (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=003&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=130082595082) does not ;)

[Matthew]

Don't bother with the Malpassi (FSE) RRFPR as it's too unreliable. Some have had success, but the majority experience is unreliability.

A new 3.3 bar reg is definitely NOT worth the money.

The Lucas 3.3 bar FPRs you mention are not rising-rate.

Find a Weber FPR from any Cosworth tuned Ford and it'll have a Weber FPR. These become adjustable when the top soft-metal plug is drilled out. You can buy them second-hand for around £30.

If you're stuck for a gauge, I may still have a couple left from the last group buy.
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=269462&postcount=109

[nbell]

This ebay one (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Power-Valve-SAAB-900-Turbo-900i-9000i-9000-cd-9-5-9-3_W0QQitemZ280084548205) from Germany looks ok - mmmmmmm, shiny ;)

[ejenner]

I ordered this one from Demon Tweaks. Arrived the next day. Seems to be working fine so far. It's the FSE one. Some people have reported problems but from reading thorugh all of the posts it seems it's only second to Webber.

It does say Malpassi on the photo but it says FSE on box and it says FSE on the demon tweaks website. Works fine in any case. I ordered mine with 8mm tails. The connection on the fuel rail is sometimes 6mm and sometimes 8mm. In my case it turned out to be a 6mm connection on the fuel rail but 8mm connection everywhere else. I've included one of Matthew's fuel pressure gauges so I can see what pressure I have it set to. I wouldn't recommend fitting an adjustable FPR without a gauge. The one I bought was £47.27+vat.

You can fit them yourself. But... you need some spare fuel hose, jubilee clips and some toilet roll for soaking up the leaking fuel as it sprays out of the fuel rail. Open the fuel rail slowly as there can be enough pressure in there to cause it to spray all over the place although this does not always happen as it tends to leak out if the car has not been started very recently. Be prepared to journey to the fuel hose shop just in case the bit of fuel hose you have aren't right or just in case you need some adaptors.

http://www.demon-tweaks.co.uk/resources/images/zoom/fseair.jpg

http://www.demon-tweaks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=MSPORT&pcode=FSEAIR003

[Matthew]

It's also wise to fit new sealing washers onto the fuel rail's banjo bolt. The originals are plastic/rubber lined but copper washers work fine.

[nbell]

Good stuff, thanks a lot guys. Emmett, did you notice any difference in the cars performance when you fitted it?

[ejenner]

yes. massive improvment. But some of that is due to the way my car was setup. I was getting a weird stutter just as the car came on boost. It was either too much fuel or too little fuel - not sure which - probably a lean spike as a rich spike is more likely to soot from the exhaust rather than misfire.

Something to bear in mind - adjusting the mixture is a bit of a 'black-art' if you don't have a wide-band lambda sensor to check the mixture with. In your case I would definitley get a fuel pressure gauge and I would probably set it at 3.0 BAR. I don't have any scinentific way of checking my mixture either. I just go for an obvioulsy rich setup to begin with and turn it back a bit until I 'feel' it's about right. Then to verify you can check for black smoke comming from the exhaust and sooty or wet spark-plugs. Both of which are signs that the mixture is too rich. When it's running right the spark plugs might be a little bit black but not sooty or wet!

[nbell]

Ok. Remember my car has a lambda sensor so I think my control over the mixture is more limited? Also I read a post from Shirozina (member.php?u=22497) who said something like 'Lucus ECU expects basic pressure to be set at 2.5bar'. I was going to check the book spec and might also drop him a line.

[ejenner]

I think your car will be running 3.0 BAR as standard. The RRFPR will increase the pressure as the manifold pressure increases. I don't think the lambda control you have on your car will do anything to the mixture past a particular point in the RPM range. But that does raise another good point. You shouldn't run too rich for too long if you have a CAT and lambda sensor as you could cause damage. Probably a good idea to fit the lambda sensor just before the southampton rolling road day and then they can take a lambda reading on the day and you can turn it up or down depending on how the reading comes out.

[nbell]

Probably a good idea to fit the lambda sensor just before the southampton rolling road day and then they can take a lambda reading on the day and you can turn it up or down depending on how the reading comes out.

I guess you mean fit the RRFPR ;) Yes, good idea, that was my plan.

I see SARD do a RRFPR in red which would match the vacuum pipes and the car - might look good as well as being high quality.

[nbell]

My RRFPR arrived from Germany today courtesy of ebay. Looks ok, anyone have any ideas what it should be set at? Haynes for the Lucas cars seems to suggest 2.8 or 3.0.

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k18/nbell99/IMGP1504.jpg

[ejenner]

if you set it too rich you'll have difficulity starting the car. I'd recommend starting at 3.0 BAR and just see how it goes. Worst that can happen is that you'll have to switch back to the old one.

[nbell]

OK, thanks Emmett.

[Marrk]

I bought one of them, sent it back and got a replacement, sent that one back and got my money back. Look nice but very crude inside, valve kept leaking and pressure setpoint was all over the place.

I replaced it with one of these

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SX-high-quality-fuel-pressure-regulator_W0QQitemZ320091705687QQihZ011QQcategoryZ 72205QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://www.sx-performance.com/15402.PDF

Hope you have better luck than me...however the SX is a nice bit of kit but more expensive.

[nbell]

Thanks Marrk, bit late now I guess, just have to see how it goes.

[nbell]

Well, the car is definately smoother now with the new FPR, I am going to run it for a bit and see how it performs. Hopefully the RR day will help me determine if its knocking or not anymore.

Item was not c900 specific (just saab), so the bracket is a bit of a bodge. I am using the original bracket with a rubber plug to hold it in place. The car has to do a couple of hundred miles tomorrow so it should be a good test.

One issue however - there seems to be no replacement plug for the pressure gauge. So I can take it off (I guess it should not be left on there long term??) but will need to get some short fat bolt to block the hole :roll:

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k18/nbell99/IMGP1505.jpg

[Matthew]

If the gauge is a decent one (the glycerin-filled ones usually are) then it can probably be left fitted in the car, at least for a few hundred miles. I had one fitted to mine for ages.

I'd keep the gauge fitted, as you will need to frequently check the pressure - especially given Mark's comments.

[nbell]

OK, thanks Matthew.

[TheRedBaron]

You need to rub some filth on that fpr, it looks too neat and shiny! ;)

[nbell]

Quite impressed with this RRFPR, pressure has been holding steady since installation. Also mpg is slightly improved, might squeak into 31mpg from the normal 29.9x.

[ejenner]

ah yes - but is it fast? wasn't that where this all started?

[nbell]

E, I turned down the boost and adjusted the wastegate until the RR day, after the guy told me about the knocking.

I guess I could turn it up a bit, otherwise I won't know if it knocks at my pref settings.

[nbell]

Jan 07 - new Sachs OEM front shocks
Jan 07 - new Pagid pads & front disks & MOT
Jan 07 - new Max Power filter and swap AMM
Mar 07 - rising rate fuel pressure regulator fitted
Mar 07 - modded black APC refitted for rolling road day (210bhp/224lbft)
Apr 07 - power steering hose refixed to stop weep
Apr 07 - gearbox oil changed

Plans for the future

- Reset ECU
- Fit accurate turbo gauge
- Fit fog lights
- Stop gear lever vibrating at motorway speeds
- Get new hatch glass, as a few demister wires duff
- Permanent wire in GPS receiver and phone cradle
- Reinforce rear speaker shelves with MDF
- Swap out custom SS exhaust for standard one (after downpipe) for motorway quietness
- Recon box with type 8 primaries
- Somehow sort (caused by radio thief) two small dents in dashtop - change dash?
- Get interior fully retrimmed & new carpet for that new car smell, mmmmmmmmmm

[Matthew]

Have you had a gearbox drain plug fitted?

Interested in the permanent GPS antenna install. Do you know where you'll site the antenna?

[nbell]

Have you had a gearbox drain plug fitted?

Nope, took it to SS Motors Southampton Saab indy and the guy had a sucker pump. He seems a good guy, will be using him again.

Interested in the permanent GPS antenna install. Do you know where you'll site the antenna?

Gave it some thought. As someone else correctly posted, it does work if placed in the glove box, but there is too much of a noticeable lag for me. Dash is a bit obvious, so my last idea was tucked in the corner of one of the back shelves. It needs to have clear sightlines obviously, and I guess I can tape over the lights so its less obvious. Hopefully I can find a 12v wire to tap into somewhere handy there.

I want the receiver to be on only automatically when the ignition is on. Its a battery operated item, I guess I will have to remove the battery and see if its happy to run off the charger wire only. Otherwise the battery will be constantly charging / discharging and be worn out in no time.

[Matthew]

Two places I thought of, but this is for a non-powered antenna connected with micro co-ax cable.

1. On the high-level brake lamp at the rear. Clear view of the sky, subtle positioning.

2. If you don't have a rear screen wiper, you could fit a dome-shaped GPS antenna in the glass's cutout. Clear view of the sky, stealth install.

[nbell]

Nice ideas Matthew, might investigate those.

[nbell]

I bought one of them, sent it back and got a replacement, sent that one back and got my money back. Look nice but very crude inside, valve kept leaking and pressure setpoint was all over the place.

Well, six months later and I have no complaints with the unit. Maybe they improved the quality since you tried yours. The pressure has been steady since I set it on day one, I check every now and again. Getting 400+ miles per tank on long steady cruising so this mod has more than paid for itself :cheesy:

[philjohnhb]

Well, six months later and I have no complaints with the unit. Maybe they improved the quality since you tried yours. The pressure has been steady since I set it on day one, I check every now and again. Getting 400+ miles per tank on long steady cruising so this mod has more than paid for itself :cheesy:

What Px did you set the RRFPR to in the end? And did you remove the gauge, if so what did you use to plug the opening?

[nbell]

I set it to just under 44psi with the pipe disconnected and squeezed closed.

I never got around to taking the gauge off, but did get a suitable size bolt cut down and ready to replace it. It did not come with anything to block the gauge hole :nono;. The bolt has been sitting on my desk and looking at me for months :)

[philjohnhb]

I set it to just under 44psi with the pipe disconnected and squeezed closed.

I never got around to taking the gauge off, but did get a suitable size bolt cut down and ready to replace it. It did not come with anything to block the gauge hole :nono;. The bolt has been sitting on my desk and looking at me for months :)

Interesting as that's bang on 3 bar. So what's the reason for a RRFPR set at the same as a Lucas FPR? Has it improved anything?

[nbell]

Well, a mechanic (who I don't really trust) says that the car was knocking. I read up on SC and using a RRFPR seemed a solution if that was correct. I was guided by trusty forumites here (http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97577) about what to set it at.

I figured that if the car did not run well I would just change back but it seems to work well. The car runs just as before and I get better mpg if I mind the throttle a little.

The unit I bought Phil was ok but engineering-wise not great (can't complain at that price tho'). If I was to buy again I would probably go for a higher quality unit like this one (http://www.saabperformanceparts.com/item151.htm), just for ease of fitting.

[ejenner]

Interesting as that's bang on 3 bar. So what's the reason for a RRFPR set at the same as a Lucas FPR?

The RRFPR increases fuel pressure at a higher rate than the normal lucas device. This means the mixture is enritched as the boost builds up. It's important to make sure the vac-line connected to the RRFPR is in good working order.

Really the RRFPR is just an aid and shouldn't be taken too seriously. It does do what it's supposed to do but if you've got big power in mind then you must do it properly and get the injectors changed and the fuel computer modified and setup using a rolling road. Problems with the RRFPR is that it does not control the mixture in an intelligent way so you can end up with rich and lean points in the rev range. Also, adjusting the fuel flow rate by changing the fuel pressure only provides a limited range of adjustment. The injectors are only meant to work in a set range. When my 99 was on the rolling road before the tester was able to confirm that the gauge is going past 5-bar for fuel pressure and there's no way the injectors would be working well at that pressure.

The RRFPR is fine but it has it's place. Depends on what your ultimate goal is.

[nbell]

Mr Jenner, did you not buy a better quality rrfpr if I recall? Maybe one of the Bell ones that look the same as the Swedish Dynamics?

[ejenner]

Nope - the rrfpr served me well for many months and a couple of track days and a trip to Sweden but when I got it on the rolling road I found it was running too lean at low rpm and too rich at high rpm. I replaced with a 3.5bar fpr and a 5th injector engaged via pressure switch. I've not had my latest setup tested yet but with the boost levels I'm running I like to have it setup as rich as possible. It's not smoking rich but I doubt very much there'd be any lean spots at this stage! As it was there was nothing I could do with the RRFPR. Adjust it higher for better results down low and that would probably rich up the top end as well.

Best thing to do is to get into ECU tuning and logging with lambda sensor. That doesn't have to be expensive but it's not as straight forward as mucking about with the fuel pressure.

One big improvment after the RRFPR cam off was the low-speed jerking dissappeared.

[nbell]

Oct 07 - oil change
Nov 07 - new clutch, new slave & master cylinders

[nbell]

Nov 07 - new rotor arm & distrib cap

Also booked in to have rear oil seal changed - will this fix the perennial tiny oil weap???...we shall see

[nbell]

Nov 07 - both oil pump seals changed, timing checked

[Saab-Daniel]

Nov 07 - both oil pump seals changed, timing checked

Was that a hard job with the engine in the car?
Daniel.

[nbell]

I got a Saab mech (SS Motors Southampton) to do it. He said he does find it tricky but has done a few so gets easier with practice. He works from the top after taking all the belts off.

[KurBads]

Was that a hard job with the engine in the car?
Daniel.

On my 8v car I did it with the engin in situ, it takes just to undo the large crank puley nut, take off the pulley and then some 5-8 M6 screws to take off the oil pump cover. Then you replace that seal in the pump cover easily and change the large o-ring between the timing chain cover and pump cover.

[nbell]

Well, changing the oil pump seals did not fully resolve the leak :( even though the mech confirmed they were very tired. Still losing one little drop of oil a day from somewhere near the back of the engine. I would get the car up on stands and give it a good clean and see but its a bit cold...

The mech suggested the sump seal next, maybe head gasket? Is this what commonly happens if one of these go? Its been the same leak pretty much for 18 months, never got worse.

[unkleG'sif]

the cam cover gaskets are usual sources of minor leaks (because of the frequency of the cam cover being removed in comparison to other seals being being disturbed)... however these are usually easily noticable, as the entire seal is clearly visable

my money would be on the sump gasket (gearbox to block)... however replacing this does inevitably mean taking the the engine out and seperating, then replacing the gasket (its possible to split them with the engin in place, but its still really involved.....

my car was losing more and more oil over time, and becaus the whole thing was then covered in oil, it was impossible to spot where it was coming from. in the end, a catastrophic geabox failure and replacement showed that only aound 3/4 of the bolts were in place, and of them, just one was more than finger tight (not going back to that Inde again :evil: )


i would seriously recommend getting under the car and having a good look... tho oil can always be dripping from somewhere else, then running along the skidplate and out the back, making it look as if the leak is from the rear of the engine


good luck nick
G

[nbell]

Cheers G. In the meantime I read an interesting post of yours along those lines. I will have to bite the bullet and get under there and get dirty this weekend. I'll make a point of making sure all the bolts are tight and also bunging up any gaps (when I find the leak) with some of the sealant that was recommended. Perhaps I had better order a big roll of that blue paper and some degrease spray today :)

[philb]

It may be tough to spot the leak in one go. Some of the oil that you'll see will be from very slow seepages, that wouldn't yield a drop of oil a day. So clean it all off, and hopefully you'll spot it.

[nbell]

Well, fingers crossed. I have already solved two areas that were leaking/weeping, so if I am lucky one more might crack it. Now I just need to track down somewhere that will sell me one big roll of workshop paper to wipe all the oil off with, otherwise I will have to use the curtains ;)

[unkleG'sif]

i nicked my last roll from the supply cupboard of the northbound M6 services @ keele ;) :cool:

G

[philjohnhb]

i nicked my last roll from the supply cupboard of the northbound M6 services @ keele ;) :cool:

G

Once a scouser

[nbell]

:lol: must admit I had the same idea when I found out what they charge for them. But last night the gf picked me up a box of swarfega wipes as thats all that B&Q had (on her company credit card :D ) and I have a tin of paint on degreaser so hopefully together that will do the trick. As the car has to be sold soon :( a few hours cleaning the engine bay won't hurt.

[Matthew]

Sold? :o

Once a scouser
I think you mean "once a naturalised scouser" ;) G's a cospeedpartsckney!

[nbell]

Sold? :o

Yeah :(
Am departing to NZ for a couple of years in Jan. Don't want to store it.

[unkleG'sif]

G's a ****ney!

of sorts..... 'sarf london by origin ;)

G

[philjohnhb]

of sorts..... 'sarf london by origin ;)

G

In that case the naturalisation has gone particularly well.

[unkleG'sif]

i was just as unsavoury a character before i moved up here, i can assure you of that ;)

"better watch out mate, i'm a geeza' int i... if it aint bolted dahn, im liable to nick it" (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKNBPIMsCwU)

in't the Fast Show BRILLIANT !?