Well things usually move too slowly for this car to be considered a "project" but I figured I'd jump on the bandwagon... And I'm going to follow SaabDaniel's awesome project thread format:

THE GOAL:
-To own, maintain, improve, and most importantly, DRIVE a great classic 900 convertible. I want to build and maintain a balanced car - mild custom performance, better-than-factory handling, OEM+ styling, and an enjoyable driving experience that is as reliable as possible.

I focus on these categories: Performance, handling, and appearance. Now, I don't plan on going overboard in any one of those categories, but rather to have a good balance of them all.

Stock power: 160 bhp & 188 ft/lbs
Power goals: 300whp & 300 ft/lbs

The Car:
-1987 900 16 Valve Turbo Convertible
-Purchased in August 2001 w/89,000 miles
-Ordered from factory with SPG kit!

Performance:
-Full engine rebuild, bored .040 over with Mahle forged pistons, Total Seal rings, balanced rods & machined crank
-Megasquirt v2.2 Standalone engine management (fuel/ignition/boost control)
-Ford EDIS Distributorless Ignition system, crank-triggered wasted-spark
-Garrett T3/T4 Hybrid .60/.63 w/Stage III exhaust wheel, 360* thrust bearing & gapped oil seal
-Ceramic coated TA-31 "hi flow" turbo exhaust housing
-Siemens 60lb/hr fuel injectors
-SS Mandrel-bent equal length header, 2000* ceramic coated
-Custom 3" downpipe, 2000* ceramic coated
-Custom 1.5" external WG atmospheric dump pipe, 2000* ceramic coated
-TiAL 38mm external wastegate set at 12 PSI
-Innovate wideband o2 sensor
-Precision 350hp intercooler (26 3/4" x 6 3/8" x 3.5")
-2.5" mandrel-bent aluminum IC piping
-Swedish Dynamics Kevlar/Sintered Iron clutch & Sachs pressure plate
-2.3L head & 2.1L intake manifold (lowered compression ratio to 8.75:1)
-NA intake cam & 85 900T exhaust cam
-Knock LED in dash
-Magnaflow straight-through performance muffler
-Solid motor mounts
-Frankenstein transmission: bigger pinion bearing/strongest shift forks/strongest 5-speed case
-SaabSavior Short throw shifter
-3.0 bar fuel pressure regulator
-Cold-air intake in inner fender, 3" intake piping
-Oil catch can

Handling, etc:
-18x7.5" Sportmax 962 wheels, gunmetal w/polished lips
-225/35R18 Yokohama Parada Spec-II tires
-Quaife LSD
-Saabrally steel diff cover
-SaabSavior aluminum rally skidplate
-Slotted & cross-drilled rotors w/ceramic performance pads(not really handling, but don't want to add another section!)
-Bilstein HD all around
-Intrax lowering springs, 1.7" drop, springs cut in front for more drop.

Exterior:
-Later '92-'94 five-piece convertible rear spoiler (larger)
-Airflow bumper center bar delete (for FMIC)
-Original SAAB convertible rear decor panel
-Original SAAB e-code headlights, smoked
-8000k H4 HID headlamp retrofit kit
-Black painted calipers & brake rotors
-Viggen-style exhaust tip
-OEM "correct" Airflow foglights, yellow protectant film
-All-red taillights
-New paint January 2006 - edwardian grey PPG basecoat/clearcoat
-DIY new convertible top
-Full c900 Airflow Kit w/fluted wheel arches (european market only)
-body color matched grille, meshed
-Smoked clear corners/smoked side indicators
-Fully debadged

Interior:
-CORBEAU GTS-II Black/Grey Microsuede sport seats, Corbeau custom-fit rails
-Black microsuede covered interior panels
-Dyed black door panels/carpet/trunk
-ProSport Digital wideband AFR gauge, Oil pressure gauge, Oil Temp gauge
-30hg/30PSI Autometer boost gauge in headlight switch
-Rare SAAB Fittipaldi Rallye steering wheel (taken from rallye-spec 99 EMS)
-N/A gauge cluster (no turbo/APC gauge)
-leather shift boot
-genuine saab leather shift knob


Wish List/To Do:
-Steady-state dyno tuning
-Hood vent grafted to fender
-Transmission oil cooler
-Rear seat delete
-Nitrous?

With each post here I'll explain the next part of the project, and will update the mod list to keep it current.

Recent pictures:


http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album170/black_015_Large.sized.jpg


http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album153/IMG00122_Large.sized.jpg


http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album170/sportmax_025.sized.jpg


http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album153/IMG_0364_Large.sized.jpg


http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album169/black_066_Large.sized.jpg

Good to see your car here, you're way ahead of me but in time I hope to join you in making the convertible a 'performance saab' too. Nice piccies by the way!

The next step in the project:

-Group9 APC
-Dodge SRT-4 front mount intercooler
-30lb/hr Ford Motorsport "red top" injectors
-JSP Stage I fuel chip

Got the IC in yesterday:
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album46/b7d8284d5c64.sized.jpg

The plan is to mount it at the mouth of the airflow kit, below the bumper core (not up in the grille). The endtanks point backward, similar to the volvo FMIC that is currently on my car. I plan on using basically my current piping setup to plumb the IC initially. Eventually I'll go for a 2.5" piping kit from eBay.

I previously modified my wg actuator when i clocked the turbo for the volvo fmic install, so I want to keep this configuration. I will be adapting the 9000 wastegate actuator using a custom fabbed bracket, the 9000 actuator is desireable to use because it bolts to the bracket, so a custom bracket can be made and easily installed. I'll probably make a few up and hand em out so you all can clock your t3's :D

As for the injectors, they're an eBay find so they'll be going straight to Dr. Injector for testing, new rings and pintle caps.

The APC is on the way, but I haven't given up on the "newest APC mod" thread that supposedly creates "an MBC with knock detection." I am really curious about getting that working.

For the fuel chip, it's delayed a bit b/c of a bad chip supplier... going to have to wait at least another week. First up is the new IC install, which will happen this weekend. Stay tuned :cheesy:

So why have you gone for the Dodge I/C and, what's more to the point, how much?

So why have you gone for the Dodge I/C and, what's more to the point, how much?

first off, the dodge boys are ditching theirs like its the end of the world. they're good til 300 bhp but its a really popular upgrade, to HUGE units. so they're practically throwing theirs away, I got mine for $45.

second, its one of the few stock IC's that the endtanks point backward, just like the volvo IC. so I figured, I won't have to run any new piping.

third, its the right shape. it should look great in the opening of the airflow kit, and look pretty menacing from a BMW's rearview :cheesy: (I'm taking the mesh out, currently hunting for a set of airflow foglight grilles)

holy crap talk me out of it!

just found an '87 turbo hatch for sale in my area... with a newly rebuilt scanwest 5-speed! shot-peened and everything! the car is a german import, has ALL receipts since '95... it's got a rebuilt head, lightened flywheel, pro modded APC, E-CODES, fpr, injectors, etc. its a black 3door.

i am SO excited. i have a complete SPG kit and set of wheels just WAITING for an opportunity like this.

but its been sitting for two years... and that's the sort of condition my vert was in when I got it... there ended up being many many many skeletons in its closet. the price is right but... what should I do? cannibalize it for parts? restore? pass on it?

the other thing is... the interior is shot. i haven't a clue where I'd come up with a new interior. well gang, any thoughts??

holy crap talk me out of it!

just found an '87 turbo hatch for sale in my area... with a newly rebuilt scanwest 5-speed! shot-peened and everything! the car is a german import, has ALL receipts since '95... it's got a rebuilt head, lightened flywheel, pro modded APC, E-CODES, fpr, injectors, etc. its a black 3door.

i am SO excited. i have a complete SPG kit and set of wheels just WAITING for an opportunity like this.

but its been sitting for two years... and that's the sort of condition my vert was in when I got it... there ended up being many many many skeletons in its closet. the price is right but... what should I do? cannibalize it for parts? restore? pass on it?

the other thing is... the interior is shot. i haven't a clue where I'd come up with a new interior. well gang, any thoughts??Sorry mate, can't talk you out of this one as I would probably kill for a car like that:lol:. Interior is no big, probably the easiest and cheapest stuff to repair (except for all those wires behind the dash...<shudder>).

holy crap talk me out of it!

just found an '87 turbo hatch for sale in my area... with a newly rebuilt scanwest 5-speed! shot-peened and everything! the car is a german import, has ALL receipts since '95... it's got a rebuilt head, lightened flywheel, pro modded APC, E-CODES, fpr, injectors, etc. its a black 3door.



Are you talking about the car in Olympia that the lady wants hauled away, with an inop clutch? I considered buying it just for the transmission. I didn't realize it's a German import with all the rest of that equipment.

I can't talk you out of it. I've practically talked myself in to it...

BTW your covertible looks awesome.

hmm... different car actually.

this was a CL find, its in Renton. god help me, i'm going to look at it tomorrow. :cheesy:

EDIT:
thanks for the compliment. i like your 2.1, esp the racing stripe! paint or decal?

holy crap talk me out of it!

just found an '87 turbo hatch for sale in my area... with a newly rebuilt scanwest 5-speed! shot-peened and everything! the car is a german import, has ALL receipts since '95... it's got a rebuilt head, lightened flywheel, pro modded APC, E-CODES, fpr, injectors, etc. its a black 3door.

i am SO excited. i have a complete SPG kit and set of wheels just WAITING for an opportunity like this.

but its been sitting for two years... and that's the sort of condition my vert was in when I got it... there ended up being many many many skeletons in its closet. the price is right but... what should I do? cannibalize it for parts? restore? pass on it?

the other thing is... the interior is shot. i haven't a clue where I'd come up with a new interior. well gang, any thoughts??

yeah I hads seen the add. THe shape looks a little rough, really worth it?paint looks gone too. Things like the flywheels and e-code lamps are cheap anywho. Newly rebuilt scanwest box tho? tempting. Scanwest does the best box I hear.

Newly rebuilt scanwest box tho? tempting. Scanwest does the best box I hear.

yeah I actually might pass... the scanwest box isn't one of the amazing-cryo-treated units, just upgraded to the larger pinion and shot-peened (which I don't think is enough to sway me). Besides, it's not like I have an issue with changing transmissions... I feel like I do it every year :lol:

you're in BC... cool, never noticed. let me know if ya need an SPG kit for your new 'vert!

UPDATE: SRT-4 Intercooler

Well here's a quick chronicle of my new IC install. Friday night I opened the package up, and for the first time put it under the car. Of course the Volvo 740 IC was really in the way, couldn't see much. I decided that the only way to tell if this was going to work was to pull out the old IC.

First off, the SRT unit is wider. MUCH wider. I immediately saw that piping would have to be reworked a bit, either by changing angles or switching out pipes and hoses. but all in all it's a well put together unit, and I was happy to get rid of the zipties that had been holding the volvo IC together for the last 9 months.

the ole swede in for the last time:

http://www.t-mobilepictures.com/photos/photo17/11/22/6c0c835f08ce.jpg


why the unit had black paint on it, I'll never know. it was otherwise in great condition.

http://www.t-mobilepictures.com/photos/photo16/c6/a9/8e06c787d6de.jpg


So I clean it off a bit and jack up the car with the old IC out. And it doesn't fit. it LOOKS like it should fit, but its hitting something.... what's that... awwwww the TOW HOOKS.

I know I'm gonna get flamed for this, but

The tow hooks had to go. The entire reason I chose the volvo FMIC, and complained about the saab 9000 unit... Ya don't have to cut the tow hooks. Well now I'm eating my words.

So, the front bumper got pulled off, I got out dad's tiger saw and went to work, being careful not to puncture the radiator. Here's how it turned out:

http://www.t-mobilepictures.com/photos/photo15/38/1f/1b513502c851.jpg


still got a chunk to cut off here:
http://www.t-mobilepictures.com/photos/photo17/24/e5/1f5ad88f31a6.jpg


Looks like a mess, but it worked and I didn't injure anyone. So at this point, I can see how the FMIC will mount up but I'm not sure of the clearances, now that the bumper is off! How silly.

So I mock up the IC in the bumper, and it fits PERFECTLY. height is perfect between the lip of the airflow bumper cover and the top of the metal and foam bumper. I couldn't be happier. Better yet, it looks good.
http://www.t-mobilepictures.com/photos/photo17/0c/10/308c0d96a5e3.jpg

The next morning, I get some silver spray paint to get rid of the black on the IC.

From this:
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album46/P1010103.sized.jpg

To this:
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album46/P1010108.sized.jpg


The paint I got was wheel paint... It shot out like glitter, not what I wanted so my IC looks very.... sparkley? weird.

At this time I started noticing all the rock chips in the airflow bumper, so it was time for some R and R. I got out my touchup paint and went to work.

I removed the mesh and noticed it had faded and looked terrible, so I washed it and shot it with the silver paint. Then i clearcoated it... Then the grille didn't match so I took it apart and did the grille too.
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album46/P1010111.sized.jpg


Now I noticed the grille's black part had become a flat, faded black so I shot it with some metallic black, looks great up close but in the pic you can't really tell.
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album46/P1010112.sized.jpg


Grille all nice 'n clean:
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album46/P1010113.sized.jpg

OKAY back to the FMIC!

I put the bumper back on, and checked out the space I made, looked good. Lots of room. So I nervously attempted to put the IC in place, and.... a perfect fit. A fit that could not BE more perfect. Slid right in place, I barely even had to tie it in place to mount it!
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album46/P1010118.sized.jpg


It just happens that the body of my car has convenient holes on each side, a few inches from the SRT IC's stock mounting points... I used some thick copper strapping and bent it to shape, and mounted up the unit.
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album46/P1010117.sized.jpg


left side:


Now came the piping. The oddity was of course the added width of the new IC, but that just took one different pipe on the driver's side. The other oddity is that the SRT unit's intake pipe is OBLONG not round. Very strange.

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album46/P1010125.sized.jpg

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album46/P1010119.sized.jpg

So I tightened up all the hoseclamps and cut off the twine, IC was in place and sturdy. So I bolted on the refreshed grille and buttoned it all up.

unfortunately I didn't get any good shots of it because the !@&*##@ license plate casts a shadow and blocks the view.
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album46/P1010130.sized.jpg


Here's a better one up close
http://www.t-mobilepictures.com/photos/photo19/44/d4/5763cd1e9a21.jpg

Keep in mind I still haven't washed the car yet!

The full gallery is HERE (http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/album46). With all these pics and more at hi-res.

Driving Impressions:
Well it certainly is cooler. No IC blocking the radiator has kept the engine temps down across the board, yesterday was HOT and I drove around, pushed it, still very cool. The pipes still don't hang lower than the skidplate, so that's good. Some of the pics are deceiving and they look incredibly low.

As we know, a better IC doesn't *make* more boost, but in my case I'm seeing what I believe is less pressure drop at high PSI compared to the volvo unit. I haven't upped the boost yet to see how much more potential this IC has, but the car feels stronger now. And there's peace of mind that the plastic endtanks won't rupture ;-)

All in all this was a very successful install, and if anybody out there with an airflow kit doesn't have a FMIC yet, get this one. They're dirt cheap and a great fit, provided you don't care about tow hooks. But really.... with the airflow kit how would you get to those tow hooks anyway? I have AAA so I don't care :cheesy:

Sorry if that was TOO MUCH detail, but I figured I'd try to answer some questions in advance. Plus, to my knowledge no one else has ever used this IC before, so now you know!

EDIT:
Using a *VERY* rough guesstimate, it looks to me that around 30% of the IC that should be getting direct air flow is blocked by the license plate. It... has to go.

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album46/untitled.png

That looks GREAT!


Way to go!

That looks to be the best FMIC installation i've seen on one of our cars. It looks like it is only an option for those of us with an airflow kit - right or wrong?

That looks to be the best FMIC installation i've seen on one of our cars. It looks like it is only an option for those of us with an airflow kit - right or wrong?

phil, thanks for the comment but I'm sure as heck not worthy of that honor, there's people who spent way more time and money on their installs than me, if anything i'll take the "bang for the buck" award haha.

I'm thinking this is an airflow-only option, just because I think there would be a fair amount of cutting involved in the front bumper. But anything is possible, and if you're on a budget like me it works.

That looks great. Nicely done.

better pic of the front:

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album46/P1010134.sized.jpg

looks familiar ;)

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i46/alaero/FMIC/IMG_1867.jpg

The above picture shows:
a) Another sweet airflow FMIC
b) that ironjoe can't take pictures worth $#!7 and needs a new camera
c) al's car pwns all and must be a rocket.
d) all of the above

Well I finally got a chance to do some onramp-acceleration, boost holds really well to the redline, as I suspected I think the pressure drop of the volvo unit above 15psi or so was really hurting my top-end performance. Not that I regret doing it, it was an upgrade from stock and an improvement but the mods have grown up so ;)

My 30lb/hr injectors came in the mail yesterday... yum. More on that soon.

D.

I have a question.

I wanted to do an intercooler, one that I could mount behind the grille. Where am I going to get piping for it? I have one set of the bigger aluminum pipes for the c900 and one set of the aluminum 9000 pipes. I was thinking that I should get all the rubber elbows and connecting pieces I could from the 900 and 9000 graveyard. This is so painful not having my car at college.

D.

I have a question.

I wanted to do an intercooler, one that I could mount behind the grille. Where am I going to get piping for it? I have one set of the bigger aluminum pipes for the c900 and one set of the aluminum 9000 pipes. I was thinking that I should get all the rubber elbows and connecting pieces I could from the 900 and 9000 graveyard. This is so painful not having my car at college.

i just used c900 and 9000 pipes, they work fine (really well actually, for how cheap they are) but I'll eventually go custom. Some people like taking their car to a shop, and getting custom piping measured and bent. I am more of a DIY guy (can ya tell?) so I think I'll go for an eBay piping kit... usually can be had for about $100 and they come with straight pipes, 45s, 90s, mandrel bent & polished, and quite often straight and angle hoses with clamps. It really wouldn't take much to put something together with that array of options, and you can get 2.5" which is bigger than the stock 2" pipe from the c900.

here's an example (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-5-Intercooler-Piping-Kit-Mandrel-Bent-Aluminum-Pipe_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ004QQite mZ140032849266QQrdZ1) or search evilBay for intercooler piping kit

(http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-5-Intercooler-Piping-Kit-Mandrel-Bent-Aluminum-Pipe_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ004QQite mZ140032849266QQrdZ1)

Thanks. I will try it with the piping that I have. Just need to buy the intercooler. As always, nice car.

As always, nice car.

right back atcha saabeh. Going to look at wheels today... we'll see what I come back with :cheesy:

well, I did it. *flamesuit on*

I bought aftermarket wheels. Here's the specs:

Flat black 6 spoke ADR GT Sport wheels, 17x7 ET40
P205/40R17 W-rated tires with 70% remaining.

Link here (http://www.adrwheels.com/wheels/?sfID1=12&sfID2=177)

Basically I went with these b/c of price, location, and style. I did the ole' set-them-in-front-of-the-car and they looked good. Here's some crappy cellphone cam pics:

http://www.t-mobilepictures.com/photos/photo16/64/0e/d79377beee62.jpg

with saab emblem... going to have to cut em down for center caps:

http://www.t-mobilepictures.com/photos/photo13/a2/c1/5a5e78f01c97.jpg

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album47/P37a8AyR3UToEM8mOkqbFCzgXhl6.jpg

Now by my count, I'll need:

5mm spacers
longer wheel studs
tuner lug nuts
hubcentric centering rings

does that sound good? For a 5mm spacer, could I get away with running stock wheel studs?? (i know the answer is no) :confused:

questions/comments/observations?

I have never seen that color scheme before and a few weeks back i was lucky enough to find 4 true 'true' Carroll Shelby for Saab silvervanes with the black center at the local Pick Your Part!

talk about fashion being cyclical... these rims are probably well over 20 years old - they were on an '81 900 - but are now back in style.

No surprise the black paint has faded somewhat and i'd like to fix them up. My research to date is pointing to either paying the local wheel shop $120 each for complete refinishing, or doing it myself. The DIY process i'm determining is:

have them beadblasted to get rid of the old black paint
treat them with Alumiprep to aid in paint bonding
Endura primer
Endura black paint
Endura clear coat.

I'm familiar with Endura having painted many other car components with it and am already in possession of the mask plus catalyst.

so besides soliciting other recommendations on alternate refinishing methods, i'd like to know how you painted your wheels and/or were they the stock black rims, or were they completely silver beforehand with black added by choice?
thanks in advance,
Wayne in Calgary
87 900T
86 Notchback 900T

wayne,

I know its a pain but you should just hand sand em, then mask the lip & paint the centers, then unmask the lip and shoot the whole thing with clear. the hardest part will be sanding em off. I'm doing a set for my beetle project at the moment... worth $120 x 4 in my opinion.

and my wheels aren't just black, they're actually a metallic with lotsa little sparkles... :lol:

Very nice, are you going to keep them black? That would look pretty good.

Very nice, are you going to keep them black? That would look pretty good.

yeah they're staying flat black... i admit when I looked at them online they seemed pretty RICEY but when I rolled them up next to the car, well... it just works. I can't explain it better than that. I think the color makes a huge difference. hopefully going to install today, gotta find spacers for the rear :(

my camera doesn't do em justice, but here ya go:

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album47/P1010140.sized.jpg

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album47/P1010145.sized.jpg

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album47/P1010143.sized.jpg

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album47/P1010144.sized.jpg

maybe the pics will look better when they've dried... i washed them just before these were taken and, well, they just didn't photograph. at all.

all the pics here at my sc gallery (http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/album47)

feel free to comment, rip on em if you like, all comments welcome.


also I should note, NO RUBBING. that's right, 205/40R17 on 17x7 wheels with a +40 offset didn't rub. I bought spacers but it looks like I don't need em.

Those look great. My only beef is that you need a bit more sidewall. They look a bit too short. But overall they're fine.

it's that picture and those large wheels which now makes me question my dislike of the airflow/carlsson body kit ;oops:

Now my dislike is down to it not looking right with wheels smaller than 17 inches!

That looks great!

Kenny.

Now my dislike is down to it not looking right with wheels smaller than 17 inches!


ding-ding-ding. my buddy, who didn't like the kit, saw the new look yesterday and agreed. the 15" are just too small. I can't believe the 900 carlsson didn't come with super aeros, what a shame.

as for the sidewall, saabeh, that is so true. i'm thinking when its time for new tires I'll go for a 205/45 or something... help fill the wheel gap. or.... the obligitory photoshop: dropped in the front ~1.5 - 2in

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album47/phosho_drop.jpg

That lowered pic looks AWESOME!!!

That is one extremely saucy Airflow vert! I'd take it easy with the pics of it you may breach forum T&Cs ;)

By agreeing to these rules, you warrant that you will not post any messages that are obscene, vulgar, sexually-oriented, hateful, threatening, or otherwise violative of any laws.

yeah... i may have to create an 18 & up gallery :lol: Thanks for the comments!

looks like lowering springs are unavoidable! i'm thinking Skandix... (https://ssl.kundenserver.de/www.skandixusa.com/sess/utn;jsessionid=15451f4eda8889b/shopdata/0020_SAAB+Parts/0010_Suspension+=2B+Steering/product_details.shopscript?article=0070_high%2Bqua lity%2Blowering%2Bkit=2C%2BMade%2Bin%2BSweden%2B=2 81013185=29) any thoughts?

yeah... i may have to create an 18 & up gallery :lol: Thanks for the comments!

looks like lowering springs are unavoidable! i'm thinking Skandix... (https://ssl.kundenserver.de/www.skandixusa.com/sess/utn;jsessionid=15451f4eda8889b/shopdata/0020_SAAB+Parts/0010_Suspension+=2B+Steering/product_details.shopscript?article=0070_high%2Bqua lity%2Blowering%2Bkit=2C%2BMade%2Bin%2BSweden%2B=2 81013185=29) any thoughts?

They look just like the ones I fitted, go for it!

Well I took some pictures this afternoon with a decent camera... I think I like the old ones better, they hide imperfections ;)

Anyway the full gallery is here. (http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/album47)Go ahead and click around, comments always welcome.

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album47/P6050269.sized.jpg (http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/album47/P6050269?full=1)


http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album47/P6050262.sized.jpg (http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/album47/P6050262?full=1)

They still look great, just need the front to be lower. Where are you in the US?

seattle/tacoma, washington. i think lowering springs are definitely a go, and possibly some other goodies ;)

pacific northwest content:

http://students.washington.edu/aje3/turbo/in/P1010042.JPG

Nice, I am going for some lowering springs as soon as I am home from school.

i like the wheels in the first picture.

did you paint the side panels? they are very shiny

Well I took some pictures this afternoon with a decent camera... I think I like the old ones better, they hide imperfections ;)

Anyway the full gallery is here. (http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/album47)Go ahead and click around, comments always welcome.

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album47/P6050269.sized.jpg (http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/album47/P6050269?full=1)


If you insist on taking photo's like this pretty soon you're going to get run run over.

i like the wheels in the first picture.

did you paint the side panels? they are very shiny

Yes, the SPG panels were painted along with the rest of the car in January of this year. It's been 10 months and I'm still not done, I still have to get going on buffing the clear, it's very hazy and I just haven't had the time!

quick update, shelby's are on for the winter :roll: It's funny how different the handling feels. Though, just for kicks I threw on the rear spacers with the stock wheels. Can't tell if it's the placebo effect or not, but I *think* I can see a difference. I think in the spring, when I put on the ADR's again I will try them both ways, with and without the spacers. A few mm didn't make much of a difference, and I still had 12 or so turns of the lug nuts. Not a problem at all. I believe they are 1/4" spacers for the record.

MBC should be in the mail soon (along with a few other top-secret goodies), watch this space!

Finally added in a boost gauge. I bought one last year, but it was white and wouldn't match anything, and it was a cheap sunpro unit. I had ideas of a mounting cup on the A-pillar, but that just wasn't interesting to me.

So after going through the recent boost gauge thread, I took my own suggestion and put one in the dash. It was surprisingly very easy, I relocated the headlight switch to where the dash light dimmer was (who ever really needs to DIM their dash lights?)

The inspiration was from Eric Heyse's notchback 900, from the WASSAAB page. (http://www.wassaab.com/ericheyse.html)

I went with a plain black autometer boost/vac unit, with one important detail. Most vac/pressure gauges go from 30 hg vac to 20 psi boost. Well this one goes to 30 PSI, which is good because my max boost on a good day is past 20, so to watch out for overboost my gauge would need to read higher.

picked it up used on evilbay, got it for a steal of a price. Haven't wired up the light yet... still trying to figure out where to take power from (I'm thinking maybe the Left Front speaker?)

https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/photos/photo11/b2/f8/efb44e85640e.jpg

Looks good the boost gauge! what did you use to cut the whole ? Did your MBC arrive yet?

Looks good the boost gauge! what did you use to cut the whole ? Did your MBC arrive yet?

Well the hole is already there from the headlight switch, its just a little bit too small b/c of how the switch sits, so I just took some pliers and snapped off the inner "lip" of the hole, it was easy. At that point the gauge fit perfectly, snug and right in.

For the headlight switch's new location, I unhooked the dash dimmer which produced a small hole. I measured the diameter of the headlight switch and drew it out, then used a small saw to cut out the hole. The switch is notched so it doesn't turn when you turn on the headlights, so you have to notch the hole a bit. I did that with a file, removing a bit at a time til it fit snug. Easy as that, sorry for being so long-winded. :lol:

And no, my mbc isn't here yet :evil: I hate waiting for shipping!

I am in the process of cutting a piece of lexan plastic to make my gauge set for the radio slot. If I remember correctly, you didn't like that approach. But it is what I am doing. Boost, A/F mixture, oil pressure. All Autometer.

i was thinking about doing that but that would meen re running a lot of wires etc

I am in the process of cutting a piece of lexan plastic to make my gauge set for the radio slot. If I remember correctly, you didn't like that approach. But it is what I am doing. Boost, A/F mixture, oil pressure. All Autometer.

that looks great, and works great too but in my opinion, gauges in the radio DIN are too far away to look at. Think about it: Some gauges are meant for occasional monitoring, like oil pressure, gas gauge, your clock, etc. But others are meant for on-the-fly information that you need NOW when you're redlining in 3rd gear.

Things like boost and a/f are like the tach, they need to be Right In Front of You. If you're flooring it and looking at your boost and a/f, which is in the middle of the dash, you're not looking at the road. It takes too long to glance to the middle of the car, then back for information that is needed immediately in comprimising situations. Why do you think Saab called the gauges they sold for the DIN "Auxillary Gauges?"

This is why a-pillar gauges work well, and in my case the headlight-switch boost gauge works, its right in front of me. Even if I'm not focusing directly on the gauge, the needle and its relative position is in my peripheral.

Sorry for the rant. I just don't want anyone crashing because they were watching their needle instead of the car in front of them.

I agree, but where would you mount these other gauges? On the pillar? Where I come from that is ricey. But I know it makes more sence. I think that they are really easy to look at. Like for example, I will be driving and look at the radio for maybe 1 second, perhaps 2. Thats how long it takes to look at a gauge, especially an A/F gauge. You might even have to look at it for less time because the LED's are color coded. When it is finished I will tell you how it worked for me.

Did you use the old pipe from the boost gauge? I am trying to find the easiest place to get through to the engine from the dash! Want to run a knock Led aswell! Other problem is that I have an SRS wheel so can get the instrument panel out completely! Plus havent got the keys to remove radio, making life very difficult ! Any sugestions

I just used the old vaccum hose going to the APC gauge. I think I'll go back in and tee off the gauge and connect them both, just so I don't have a dead gauge on my instrument panel.

The hose is accessible from the front speaker hole, just remove the grille and speaker and you can reach in and maneuver. As for the knock LED I don't have one plumbed, but I do know that there is a hole through the firewall by the master cylinder. You could put a hole through there, then run the wire up to the dash... just a thought.

I wired the gauge up this weekend, just teeing off the heater control light (easy to get to w/o pulling the dash face) To my surprise, it lights up green! Matches my instrument panel perfect!

Ok, thank you, was thinking the same for the plumbing! Unfortuantely I have gone for a silver gauge wich lights up blue and is a bit of a distraction! Anyway my head unit is silver alwell! I wired mine into the light dimmer switch seems to work but cant tell if it has killed the speedo lights as they were vry dim in the first place for some reason ! Anyway good idea mounting the boost gauge there, sorry for copying it! Did you get the MBC yet ?

had a little look with a spare gauge the other day... just holding it over the light switch, and i couldnt see the face past the steering wheel. do you guys have smaller steering wheels?

G

Just requires a little movement of the head! not too much ! :D

had a little look with a spare gauge the other day... just holding it over the light switch, and i couldnt see the face past the steering wheel. do you guys have smaller steering wheels?

G

Oh yeah.... I never really thought about that. Yes, I do have a smaller steering wheel. It's a leather three-spoke sport wheel off of our old 99 EMS.

With the smaller diamter, I don't have any problem with the wheel blocking my view of the gauge. I guess that position isn't for everyone!

i suppose the difference is (at the moment) my car doesent go that fast with an auto box so I have time to move!

Did you get the MBC yet ?

Should be in tomorrow... I double-checked, and I cheaped out and got the slowest shipping possible. ;oops: That'll teach me! :lol:

lol, what did you order ? How does the insurance work out here? Do you have to tell them if you have any mods?

As I understand it, if you have modifications you want covered you can settle upon an agreed value with an insurance company. If your car is listed as being 'stock' and you have aftermarket parts, they won't be covered in the event of an accident. It can get pricey pretty quick though... Mine's listed as stock.

ah
well my mods are due to mechanical failiure so there ya go ! Tryind to track down an aero kit who would you recommend to go see ?

IronJoe, clear some space in your PM folder.

ah
well my mods are due to mechanical failiure so there ya go ! Tryind to track down an aero kit who would you recommend to go see ?

Since you're in RI, Airflow kit or SPG kit? SPG kit would be from a broken SPG and the Airflow kit would be from a very rare occurance that you could find one. I think I narrowed my search down on my bumpers. Updates soon :lol: .

Ok will have to find out about some scrap yards round here! Thanks for ur help! What is the difference between the spg and the aero ?

My car = SPG kit, Joes kit = Airflow front and rear bumpers. In the UK the Aero kit is the same thing as the SPG kit.

Wow car looks great! :p Glad to see progress being made. I know another airflow 'vert' in the area that cant even compare ;)

More progress. First, I received my fuel chip from Jak last week, so Friday I planned on installing it with my injectors and my MBC which I assumed would arrive that day. Well, slow shipping sucks and I didn't get my MBC, so I figured it wouldn't be worth much to install my fuel mods without some decent boost to try it with (without my wg spring I only boost 10-12 psi max)

But I did it anyway. Injectors were a breeze to install, as I expected. The funny thing was, I left the chip elsewhere, which I only realized AFTER I installed the injectors. So I drove the car with the 30lbers on the stock fuel, and I was surprised at how well it idled. I had heard horror stories of wandering idle that was impossible to fix, and this surprised me in a good way!

So I installed the chip, and seeing as my boost wasn't very high I wasn't expecting much. It felt close to the same up top but the real change was at part throttle. There is SO much more power at part throttle, only pressing halfway down on the accel will get you where you need to go in no time!

Frustrated with not being able to test my full boost, I broke down and bought another wg spring from the hardware store to test. It'll come out and be replaced with the MBC whenever that gets here! So I hooked it up and did some testing... Fast. Fast fast fast. The car doesn't feel like it 'chokes' on high RPM boost runs. I recommend ANYBODY with LH that doesn't feel the need to go standalone to call up Jak and get one of his chips, well worth it. I'll post more results when my boost is where it needs to be.

I will post fuel mileage, etc but I doubt it will be great initially, as I'm enjoying this new power a lot!

Also I smoked my rear lights this weekend, that was a pretty fun/easy mod too. I just wiped the lights down with a "wash" that I use for painting, then masked 'em off and shot. I went two coats on the reverse lights, and four coats on the turn signals. Brake lights were left alone, which I think looks good (now it matches the Aero!)

I shot a couple coats of clear on them, in these pictures they are a bit dull because I hadn't buffed them out yet. I just used a bit of wax and a buffing wheel and they shined right up.

As you can see they aren't TOO dark, I didn't want to lose a lot of light output, the can recommended a max of 3 coats and I put on 4.

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album50/P1010137.sized.jpg

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album50/P1010138.sized.jpg

IronJoe,

Wow, I'm really impressed with all the work you've put into the convertible, and your future plans! I still don't know if I dig the full monochromatic paint treatment, but it's still a sweet looking car. I definitely don't like dark colored wheels, but I know I'm sort of odd that way, at least among the younger crowd. :) I really like the older Saab 8-spoke wheels, always have. Nice job on your intercooler install, it looks awesome. So about your Euro front license plate, have you had any problems with the police yet? Do you drive with a front plate in the windshield or something? Our state is so silly I think, in still requiring a front plate even though you don't need any stickers on it. A front plate totally messes with the look of many/most cars these days. So I read that you have a Bug project also?? My fiance' REALLY wants an older Bug in great shape, she'd be so jealous. The prices are through the roof to buy one that's in great shape, as you probably know, but then I guess that's a classic car for ya.. So do you do auto painting yourself, or leave that to others?

Aaron,

The paint was a DIY. The first time was in our garage, the paint didn't set up very well in our garage so a friend of my father's let us use his paint garage, heated with fans and all that. It went really well, but I still haven't wetsanded and buffed it yet! So up close it's all orange peel, I've just been lazy. But we DUMPED the clearcoat on so no doubt it will shine right up.

As for the plate, I was ticketed in April for no front plate, it was a fix-it ticket so I put the plate back on and got it dropped. After my FMIC install I didn't like how it blocked the air so I removed it again. This time, I didn't put on the "turbo" one and the real plate is in the car, so a "Well it JUST fell off!" response is still viable.

At this point, to me it's worth the $101 to keep it off. As for the bug, that's my resto-custom project which isn't getting much progress at the moment! It's sanded down and almost ready for a few coats of Tornado red, it's gonna be pretty original when finished. Lots of custom work there.

That must be great to have had access to the paint garage. I saw it in your pictures, and it looks like a great setup. You certainly can use the heaters around here about 8 months out of the year.

What year is your Bug? I'm sure my fiance' would love a look at it once you get it done - or maybe not, it will just torture her more.
I'll have to think on the plate issue. If it weren't so easy to notice I'd go without in a heartbeat. I wonder if a lower mounting point can be designed for the 9000 somehow...

If it weren't so easy to notice I'd go without in a heartbeat. I wonder if a lower mounting point can be designed for the 9000 somehow...

Well, I was halfway through designing a bracket (idea from a 2000 civic Si I saw online) but I acquired some foglights from the 'bay so I ditched the idea. It was a good plan, I was going to use the foglight mounting holes in the airflow bumper, and design a bracket to hold the plate in front of the pass. foglight hole, at an angle to match the contour of the kit. Oh well, going to have to keep holding my breath when passing cops!

coming soon.... NOS, original packaging, hardware included. 'nuff said. :cheesy:

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album51/3e_3.jpg

I didnt even know it was the law, but isn't not having a front license plate a good enough excuse? if you lose it, can you ever get another one?


I was driving a volvo without a front plate for a year without a cop caring. and its not because the cops are too busy fighting crime where I live

I commuted 30 miles each way for a week with NO plates, even had a state trooper follow me, and didn't get pulled over...I had just bought the car, had the title with me, but I never had the opportunity to explain myself to the boys in blue. I'm almost 40, and must look honest or something.

Updates, finally. For the last week, my paint has gone from good -> terrible -> horrible -> bearable -> shiny -> immaculate. Since I painted last January, the car had never benn colorsanded. Basically when we shot, the gun's adjustment left something to be desired and the car came out pretty much all orange-peel. I just drove like that, thinking it was good enough.

Well, after I was told rather blunty that my paint looked like someone shot rhino-liner instead of edwardian grey, I decided to do something about it. This took lots and lots and lots of sanding, washing, sanding, washing, sanding.... then buffing, washing, buffing, washing, etc etc etc. I started out using :o 600 grit sandpaper, then moved to 1000, 1200, 1500, then 2000 grit. Sanding the entire car, every time!!! So tiring... try it sometime, it really makes you hate your car. Of course this is my daily driver, so after the first day it looked like something out of Mad Max's Beyond Thunderdome. Anyway, after the sanding came the buffing, we buffed with some rougher 3M glaze, then a fine Imperial glaze, then a final Meguire's Step 7 finishing glaze. I have yet to wax the car, that's the next step.

Anyway, I burned through the paint on, yep, front bumper, rear bumper, hood, and gas cap. Guess what's getting a repaint with my new spoiler... ugh. Luckily those are all items that can be removed with some ease.

I'll get some good pics, but it's pretty darn shiny except for the spots I burned through, which you can't tell unless you look real close. Finally it looks like how a newly painted car should look, 11 months later.:roll:

So also I installed my hella foglights, these apparently also come stock on the special model e30 BMW 325s, so I snatched them right up off of evilBay when I recognized em! Anyway, the install went real easy, I just cut off the BMW connectors and hooked up the SAAB ones. I installed StickerCity protective film, read my thread on the stuff it's great and easy to work with. It even goes around corners, perfect for the edges of the fogs!

So I went with yellow, for some reason I couldn't resist. I'm definitely going to order more of this film, I'm going to do my headlightsand my airflow front lip in clear to repel all the rock chips I seem to get. You order it by the square foot, and it's pretty inexpensive.

Pics:

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album53/P1010154_001.sized.jpg


http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album53/P1010157.sized.jpg

Show me some no orange peel pics. I have done some welding/bodywork and I want to see how it came out.

Another small update: After over five years of 4x4ing, my convertible is finally getting "down to earth."

Intrax on the way.

'Nuff said. :cheesy: :cheesy: :cheesy: :cheesy: :cheesy:

YES finally. I just bought some intrax for myself. Where did you get them and how much?

YES finally. I just bought some intrax for myself. Where did you get them and how much?

eGhey for $205 + ship. you?

* I was going to get the Skandix ones but I figured $15 more for another .2" drop was worth it*

Yeah, eSlay for $197 + shipping. My total was $242, yours?

Yeah, eSlay for $197 + shipping. My total was $242, yours?

I almost ordered those b/c they were cheaper... but I emailed first and they said they were on backorder... :roll:

Total w/insurance was $248.

Ah, nice. I just got mine in so whew.

You guys will like the Intrax. I put mine on a few years back and have no issues. Lowered but not too much. Plus they are red... good for a few HP

They're supposed to lower it about 1.7 inches, and they're purple?

I have the intrax too, but have not put them on.

I am wating to do the axle swap at the same time.


PICTURES!!

I have the intrax too, but have not put them on.

I am wating to do the axle swap at the same time.


PICTURES!!

Axle swap? Ohh you traitor. ;)

I can't believe I'm at the computer. This is silly. Time away from 1080p resolution is a waste, is it not?

Anyway, I installed the intrax springs today. This post is worthless without pictures, which I have none. It got dark around 4:30 today and the 1992 digital camera at our house doesn't "do" night shots.

Blah.

Rented spring compressor, free at Autozone with a charge/refund when you return. Got one for coil springs, then realized that since the bump stop is in the middle of the coil, you can't use a regular coil spring compressor that runs through the middle of the coil. So, I went back and got strut compressors, which clip onto each side of the spring. Went like clockwork, followed the bently word-for-word and it came together swimmingly. The back, ehh, not as easy, popping the old springs out is cake but it was kinda tough lining up the swaybar when putting things all together.

Impressions:
-Ride is VERY smooth. These are mated to Bilstien HD shocks, and I think my old springs really were worn out. Much less bumpy going down the road, and it doesn't shimmy up and down like the honda's with cut springs on the freeway :cheesy:
-This thing carves the corners. I never thought a 'vert could handle this way! Much more of an improvement (can't believe I'm saying this) than the switch to 17" wheels with 7" width and a 40 series low-pro. Of course the Shelby's are on right now with 195/60, so I can't WAIT til I get my ADR's back on.
-It's not too low. Maybe it's because the springs take time to "settle" but it doesn't seem like 1.7 inches... Maybe more like 1.5?? But I didn't measure so I don't know. All I gotta say is that it isn't ridiculously low, or that it looks ghetto. It looks like it *could* have come from the factory that way.
-Front and rears are now in balance! Finally... why do stock springs always seem higher in the front?... mine were pretty worn though I think... saggy in the back like the desperate housewives :o

-Overall it's way worth $200... The car is smoother, yet more responsive. Quieter, even. But what's even better is the point-n-shoot way it takes the bendy's. Go get them! I should have done this years ago. The effort intimidated me, as well as the labor quotes from shops. DIY guys... DIY.

I have no experience with the other types... but I will say that I had a chance to save $30 or so and get the "red" springs you always see, and I'm glad I paid up for the intrax. Proven brand with history and experience. Well worth it.

Will get pics up tomorrow. Now it's back to my new PS3 and some hi-def blu-ray action!

Good deal. They are a bit of PIA to install by yourself, but once done well worth it. IMO I think they are great upgrade for the money and availiblity. Now that you have them in let them settle in and have the front end alligned. Once that is dialed in the thing should corner like it is on rails. (to a degree) 900Rally posted: -,5 to 1.0 degree camber, 2.75 degree caster, and just enough toe to be read.

Oh man, I can't wait to put mine on now!


Still......PICTURES!!!!!

Now it's back to my new PS3 and some hi-def blu-ray action!

I. Hate. You. Seriously.

You put your intrax in before me, and you have a PS3. See this whole college thing bugging me again?

That is why you take the time and effort to go to college, so you can get a good job... to do these things.:)

Pics:

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album54/P1010155.sized.jpg

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album54/P1010156.sized.jpg

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album54/P1010158.sized.jpg

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album54/P1010159.sized.jpg

'nuff said. :cheesy:

That looks great.



I need to put mine in.



Soon.

Blurry cameraphone pics from during the install:

(we had a snowstorm here in WA last week, so the car is filthy in these pics!)

https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/photos/photo18/f8/5f/1b6be61c6e17.jpg

https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/photos/photo11/e0/4b/e12b4a6d6fa6.jpg

https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/photos/photo19/40/95/770a1bdd2b3d.jpg

Wow, it really brought the front end to a proper level. I can't wait to put mine in.

Wow, it really brought the front end to a proper level. I can't wait to put mine in.

Yeah hurry up and get those installed! I just want to get through winter so I can get my 17s back on, I can't wait to see what it'll look like.

Stay in school, saabeh ;)

Yeah, I have a set of 15" I will be putting on my car too. Oh and I don't plan on leaving school. But it is just hard to watch my car rot away at home. It's not really rusty, but its becomming a yard car. I can't wait for winter break.

wicked sick car joe. looks like a 97 instead of an 87. i think its gonna look really good when you get the 17" wheels on for the summer.

my question for you: i put my intrax on over the summer and the car still sags a bit in the back. and i think that the rubber pieces that go in the ends of springs are worn out (1988 original). since you recently changed your springs did you notice that the rubber bumpers on your car worn out?

Thanks for the big ups Dan... where's your project thread? ;)

As far as the rubber inserts, they looked to me to be in pretty good condition for their age. I was very afraid the intrax wouldn't completely level it out, because the rear was sagged so bad. I don't think the rear is any lower with the new springs, b/c the old were so worn. Now the front is just even.

As I look at the front end, I wish it was a tad lower however, I've been driving it my normal route which has some pretty bad speedbumps and I haven't scraped yet. Of course, I've learned to drive like grandma does around bumps and things ever since I mounted my airflow kit, so I've been pretty careful.

Didn't the convertibles have different bump stops in the back, though?

Joe, how did you get those strut compressors to work for the front springs!?!? Palmer and I tried for quite a while on his '86 and we couldn't get the damn spring to actually compress all the way! The more we tightened the compressors the more the tops of the springs just stretched out :-( We couldn't actually get the compressors around the top and bottom most coils, and it was just a PITA!

I have used my strut compressors on a c900 in the past, and it never seemed like an issue, but maybe we were doing something wrong with Palmer's car :-?

Ahh... that was kinda tricky. I ended up having to clamp to the bottom coil, and the uppermost one I could reach (third from the top?). The bottom coil is hard to grab because of the nut directly below it that holds the spring plate on. So I basically compressed the spring a bit with the bottom bracket halfway on (carefully!) then using a pry bar, "popped" the bracket fully into place. I was sweating that part a bit.

But yeah.... If you don't grab onto enough coils you can compress til you're arm falls off and get nowhere. The nice thing is, the intrax are so much shorter that you don't need to compress them when you install! :cheesy: :cheesy: :cheesy:

http://www.thepartsbin.com/cartools/images/otc-7560.jpgThat is the spring compressor I used, it worked like a charm...they aren't cheap though (made by OTC) and yes the stock springs in front SUCK they are very long....SPG or Roadhandling springs are cake, but then you wouldn't need or want intrax springs if you had either;)

But yeah.... If you don't grab onto enough coils you can compress til you're arm falls off and get nowhere. The nice thing is, the intrax are so much shorter that you don't need to compress them when you install! :cheesy: :cheesy: :cheesy:

Thank god for that bit of info! Knowing that makes me want to give it another shot :D

Edit Oh, and by the way, I forgot to mention that your car looks worlds better with the new springs! Not saying that it wasn't great before....but the new stance does wonders for the lines of the car, and the way the airflow kit sits.

Didn't the convertibles have different bump stops in the back, though?

Yes, convertibles do have a longer bump stop in back.

***SPG or Roadhandling springs are cake, but then you wouldn't need or want intrax springs if you had either***


i had SPG springs on my car.... really saggy in the back, much better now i got rid of them, i thought about selling them, but they were hammered.


joe- i might make a project page, but i havent done anything in months except drive the car, and i was horrible about taking pics as i did stuff. come spring time i'll get back into it.

Alright here are my options:

1. Buy intrax Springs (Done!)
2. Buy New tires $375.95 shipped and mounted
3. Buy Bilstein HD's $299 shipped

I can only choose one more until after winter!

Okay, with winter coming up I think my best bet would be to buy the SHOCKS then use my 15" wheels for the winter, save up money for the super aeros, then at the end of winter, buy the tires. Should I do that or buy tires now, shocks later?

-Mike

buy the SHOCKS then use my 15" wheels for the winter, save up money for the super aeros, then at the end of winter, buy the tires.




Do that.


123456

Yeah, new shocks made an incredible improvement on my car, do 'em. But let me check, I'm pretty sure I found mine for cheaper than that. Unless inflation and gas prices are to blame :x

Okay, I will be buying the shocks, but tires later. The lowest price I found for Bilstein HEAVY DUTY's was $299 free shipping.

Also, spend more than that on tires. You will love yourself.

I have had my mind set on buying Kuhmo's for a while, they are inexpensive. What would you use for a 16"?

I have had my mind set on buying Kuhmo's for a while, they are inexpensive. What would you use for a 16"?

Yoko parada spec-2 are only $71 each at tirerack for a 205/45-16

Good looking project.

I was looking at the spec 2's. People say they are noisey, but I dont really care. I was going to buy those too.

Hummin 'n hawwin here, could use some suggestions. In general I'm not happy with the finish on my ADR wheels. They're great 5 feet out, but I'd like something better. They never really "cleaned up" properly and I suspect the paint.

So here's what I'm looking at, first is either DIY refinishing or professional sandblast & powdercoat. The local spot here does it for $75 a wheel. I'm at a loss here because I love to DIY stuff, but at the same time (if you haven't noticed) I'm more inclined to turning a wrench than this cosmetic stuff. SO I'm leaning toward the powdercoating.

Secondly... what color? They are a matte black now. I could go matte black, gloss black, or some sort of wrinkle-finish (or texture).

Take a look at this chart and give me some opinions! thx all

http://www.go2pcsi.com/images/colorcharts/color2a.jpg

use your imagination....

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album47/P6050265.sized.jpg

Haha, look at silvervein, thats ugly. Do a gloss blllaaaaccckkkk.

Haha, look at silvervein, thats ugly. Do a gloss blllaaaaccckkkk.

yeah I'm liking Bike Black.

Anyway, the ricer tip is finally going away! I found a source for the viggen style tip at a much better price than I have seen previously.

Stay tuned:
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album55/viggen_style_tip.jpg

Id do a silver or the like, the car definatly needs a bit of contrast. Even a light gunmetal with a polished lip would set it off.

BTW, you have a PM.

Id do a silver or the like, the car definatly needs a bit of contrast. Even a light gunmetal with a polished lip would set it off.

BTW, you have a PM.


Thanks steve *photoshop engaged*

why? because I felt like it.

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album47/Untitled_1_copy.sized.jpg (http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album47/Untitled_1_copy.jpg)

brand new turbonetics 9 psi wastegate actuator on the way... :cool:

more to come.

Next up: HKS copy SSQV bov from the evil B. These got cheap so I decided to add it to my winter break to-do list.

http://images.channeladvisor.com/Sell/SSProfiles/30061886/Images/HKSBLow-JDM.jpg


to do list:
-viggen style exhaust tip
-fab up custom wastegate bracket
-install turbonetics wg
-install hks copy bov

That is a short list compared to my never ending one... My car cries for me. My shocks will be here in 3 days, that is when the fun begins.

hate to say this is turning into an art forum, but... I've just been having too much fun with photoshop lately. click for biggie size

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album53/tooned_saab.sized.jpg (http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album53/tooned_saab.jpg)

Turn Signals:

Here's the deal. I have clear corners with silverstar bulbs... they look clear/bluish when off, and orange when lit. Cool, but at night with headlights my corners stay lit all the time. It's like there's no point in even having clear corners.

But in daylight, they stay off until I turn on the signal. Is there a way to run my turn signals like this at night as well? Just keep them off until I have to turn? Ideas? I'm thinking this can't be too hard. It's just a cosmetic thing that's been bothering me.

crack open the bentley manual to wiring diagrams....figure out where they get power from when the headlights are on...probably at the switch, maybe at the relay and clip the wire....OR just as likely the relay switches a ground wire on...clip that just make SURE it's not the same ground it uses when you make a signal that is simply switched when the headlights are on

Turn Signals:

Here's the deal. I have clear corners with silverstar bulbs... they look clear/bluish when off, and orange when lit. Cool, but at night with headlights my corners stay lit all the time. It's like there's no point in even having clear corners.

But in daylight, they stay off until I turn on the signal. Is there a way to run my turn signals like this at night as well? Just keep them off until I have to turn? Ideas? I'm thinking this can't be too hard. It's just a cosmetic thing that's been bothering me.

In the Euro version they are off with the headlights on.

In the Euro version they are off with the headlights on.

Thank you for this semyhr! After I read this, I figured, "well it's gotta be easy then!" I went out to the car and started playing around with the connections, and found exactly what I was looking for. I now have turn signals ONLY when I have clicked them on, no matter if the headlights are on or off.

For those interested, it's just a matter of unplugging one of the three wires running to the connecter. There are three wires in the plug, and I disconnected the "middle" wire. The plug is in an L-shape with three wires:
__
|1 |__
|2 | 3 |

so in this example I pulled wire #2 from the plug then plugged the connector back in. I know it's just a simple cosmetic thing, but it was really bothering me ;) Maybe that helps somebody else too.

Goodbye ugly orange... Only comes on when I am using the turn signals. Looks much better IMHO. For the other light in the turn signal I used those bluish ricer bulbs, honestly turned out better than I thought.

pics:
*car is in need of a wash!*

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album57/P8250270.sized.jpg

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album57/P8250274.sized.jpg

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album57/P8250275.sized.jpg

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album57/P8250276.sized.jpg

Turn Signals:

Here's the deal. I have clear corners with silverstar bulbs... they look clear/bluish when off, and orange when lit. Cool, but at night with headlights my corners stay lit all the time. It's like there's no point in even having clear corners.

But in daylight, they stay off until I turn on the signal. Is there a way to run my turn signals like this at night as well? Just keep them off until I have to turn? Ideas? I'm thinking this can't be too hard. It's just a cosmetic thing that's been bothering me.

It's funny that you want to get rid of this, and I quite like it, yet my car doesn't run with the turns on when my headlights are on. I've been trying to figure out for a while how to get them on with my headlights :confused: I don't have a bently (on my to do list) and haynes is useless..


Kenny.

Same here.. I would like them to be on at all times :) Maybe because we don't have things like that here in Europe.

ahh... how I love the holidays!

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album58/P1010170.sized.jpg



more to come!

*ding*





*ding*






*ding*



SO much nicer than the "eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee"

Yep, the chime relay is a godsend. As for the other stuff:

Doing the HKS copy was pretty fun. I cut a hole in the IC pipe, and got ready to connect the flange. I bought some aluminum solder, which melts easy with a bernz-o-matic. And BOY did it suck! The problem was, the flange was not aluminum, because it was a cheap copy. So the solder stuck to the pipe but never the flange.

Enter the JB weld, which worked perfectly. I painted over it, and connected the blow off valve with the c-clip. Went for a drive, and it sounds LOUD. I love it, it blows off loud even at very low boost pressures.

then I tried blowing off full boost... I heard a huge *POP* and the car died. First thing I thought was, the JB weld didn't hold and the valve is sitting in the engine compartment. Well I limped home and found the flange and pipe intact, it turned out that the c-clip wasn't seated all the way!

So I filed down the edge of the poorly-cast c-clip and reinstalled. Works great now! Will post a clip soon.

Pics to come, the batteries in the digicam died ;oops:


As for the wastegate, well, I'm still trying to get my new bracket to work. More tinkering is needed... :x

I have the hks valve, and I can vouch; it is VERY LOUD. Kids have flinched and covered there faces with the arms when shifting past them down the street :lol:

I suppose you get what you pay for... Not 10 miles into the install of my hks copy valve, and I noticed it leaking! The car would stall out every time I let off the gas, and when idle I felt it sucking air.

So I looked inside and noticed the center piece to be, well, off center. So I took the valve apart and noticed that the secondary diaphragm had come loose from where it clips on (hard to explain). In any event, I superglued the piece back where it clips in for extra security and reinstalled. Works great now, but I wish I would have taken it apart first.

I did complete the install of my new turbonetics wastegate actuator. Getting the bracket to work just right was a total pain! Because the turbo is clocked, the holes just don't match up quite right so it had to be custom. In any event, the wastegate is supposedly set for 9 psi but since my mounting job is a bit different, the wastegate is set WAY too high. I've really got to turn it down, as of now it's running with no APC and my boost controller all the way down, and seeing 18 psi :o So that's next on the list.

Also I went to install my exhaust tip and noticed my muffler is about toast... There's a separation in the housing causing black to spew everywhere :o Oh joy, new exhaust time... I'm thinking 2.5" cat-back with a new magnaflow. That'll happen this month I think.


More to come.

Just noticed the pics you took after the sanding and polishing of the paint, its looking much better :lol:. The matt effect it had before really took away from the car.
Do you have pics of your car before the airflow kit went on? Just spotted this car:
http://www.blogsmithmedia.com/www.autoblog.com/media/2007/01/87saab_rrotd_01.jpg

I reckon the clear corners are an improvement, and I could take or leave the airflow kit, but the wheels really set the whole car off, I think the pictured car looks fantastic mainly because of the wheels.
I think you should look for some carlsson or super aeros, and match them to your paint.

Minus the wheels, that's pretty much my car after the first year of ownership.

Of course, mine's an 87 with 4x114.3 bolt pattern so I couldn't mount Aeros if I wanted to. And, I have no desire to change the brakes to 88+ hubs etc. My 17's handle better anyway ;)

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/Life-as-a-Faux-SPG/PDRM0160.sized.jpg

Sorry, forgot about the 87 hubs :)

Grr... trouble in paradise. Now it seems I'm getting the oddest boost leak (?) at around 10 PSI. Here's the story:

-When the car starts, acts like there's a vaccum leak. After warming up this goes away
-when cold, around 10 PSI comes a violent shudder and a refusal to accelerate. It's as if the boost pressure is being released-and-built-up very quickly. As the car warms up, this happens less.

Here's my problem, I'm not sure if it's the wastegate or the the BOV, because I just recently changed both at the same time (dumb I know). But I think I've narrowed it down to the BOV: I used my boost controller to open the wg at, say 15 psi. If the wg was the problem, the same phenomenon would happen (just at a higher pressure). But nope, still happenend at 10ish psi.

So I'm thought the cheap chinese copy HKS valve had busted, so I took it all apart and didn't find anything out of the ordinary. This weekend I'm going to reinstall the bosch bpv and see what happens, that should narrow it down. Might have to bite the bullet and buy the real-deal (not a copy). Ugh, hate buying things twice.

Can't check anything today, because I'm getting my new exhaust tomorrow ;)


/rant



EDIT:
I'm thinking my eBay fake HKS valve is leaking. It worked fine at first, but now this! It hasn't even been one tank of gas since the install. I think its just blowing open all the time. GRRRR like I said, I HATE buying things twice. Lesson learned, don't cheap out.

Also my fake turbosmart MBC has crapped out as well. Lesson learned AGAIN, don't cheap out. *sigh*

Joe, I have had mine on for around 6months, no trouble. So has 8 others I know of, so maybe you are just unlucky with yours?
Daniel.

Well, it wasn't the HKS valve. I swapped it out for my previous turboxs AND the stock bosch, all with the same results.

My money's on the wastegate actuator. I'll readjust it when I have time this weekend.

Ohh yeah, and I got my new exhaust today! 2.5" with a magnaflow straight-through muffler and the viggen-style exhaust tip. it sounds MEAN! I'm so jazzed... too bad I can't tell if it made a performance difference, because of this weird boost issue! :x All in due time...

EDIT:
Only pic that turned out.

http://www.t-mobilepictures.com/photos/photo12/ff/7c/4006a1c81e71.jpg

Ok, here are pics of the exhaust, and a video. 2.5" piping cat-back w/magnaflow muffler, no cat & viggen style resonator.

Sorry, just a digicam so the audio is limited.

VIDEO HERE (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-29QFrc1nFk)

some pics (full gallery from today HERE) (http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/album55):

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album55/P9130307.sized.jpg

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album55/P9130301.sized.jpg

Joe,

Interested in FMIC and have considered the 9000 or Volvo or aftermarket but you install looks supurb. Issue I have is non-airflow. I have a 900 Aero (SPG) and while there may be some mods to the front spoiler it appears to be an option. I would appreciate your (and others) thoughts. Also do you have any contact for the purchase of your intercooler.
I guess this question was going to come from someone!

I do think that he purchased his SRT intercooler off e-bay. Search under "dodge SRT-4" You want a stock one.


If you want to see another option, take a look at my project thread as well. I have the car called "the blue beast"

You have a valid point about the volvo/9000 intercooler. Those have a fair amount of pressure drop across them.

The dodge IC is a good one as it's designed for an engine out size with about 100 more horsepower.

Thanks - I have looked on the US EBay for a stock unit and sent a few emails to aftermarket suppliers who may have pulled one out - seems to be big business so there must be some stock ones somewhere. Dont wory I am keeping a close eye on your thread.

Joe,

Interested in FMIC and have considered the 9000 or Volvo or aftermarket but you install looks supurb. Issue I have is non-airflow. I have a 900 Aero (SPG) and while there may be some mods to the front spoiler it appears to be an option. I would appreciate your (and others) thoughts. Also do you have any contact for the purchase of your intercooler.
I guess this question was going to come from someone!

The FMIC is a factory dodge unit, as Palmer said. The SRT-4 puts out 220-250 bhp stock, and the stock cooler is good for 300 hp. But SRT guys are trashing their stockers left and right, because aftermarket units built for the SRT-4 are readily available.

I bought mine lightly used from SRTForums.com. Price was $75 shipped I believe. Not sure if you got the SRT-4 down under, or if you didn't what the shipping would look like. Also I don't have a clue if it will play nice with non-airflow cars.

But I will say, going from the volvo unit in front of the radiator to this unit lowered my coolant temps across the board :cool:

New Turbo Time! :confused:

Well my turbine housing has cracks along the wg port, so it looks like that was leaking and causing boost problems. So obviously I'm not staying stock...I've got me a couple options:

-Rebuild stock turbo to a T3/60. This would either require the purchase of a new turbine housing, or the local shop re-welding the current one if possible. This would be the most cost-efficient route if not for the complication of the exhaust housing.

-Purchase a T3/60 or Super 60 online. Worried about this one... anybody have good places to deal with? I've been to turbochargers.com and others, but... pretty unsure. Fitment, etc would be up in the air.

anybody got any opinions?

Whichever would be most cost effective. If your housing is broken now they either get a whole new turbo and go from there, or replace the broken parts with bigger or better parts. If you have the cash, play with it.

I have found a "supply" of SRT-4 intercoolers and the price seems to be US$75 + freight. I will go ahead and experiment with the aero. I anyone else is interested in one of these let me know.

Well, I would go for an ebay-IC like the one I used (see my project-thread), as this can sit very discrete without showing that you have a huge FMIC :)
Daniel.

I have found a "supply" of SRT-4 intercoolers and the price seems to be US$75 + freight. I will go ahead and experiment with the aero. I anyone else is interested in one of these let me know.

I have a SRT 4 IC for my Carlsson/Airflow and I shall be fitting it up just like IronJoe. My last car had a standard Aero front end and there is no way the SRT 4 IC will fit.

Dan,

Your thread says you would'nt use with an a/c condensor. I dont have any issues with snow or ice but do with ambient temp. This is why I like the look of the Dodge unit as it is slung low and alows air to the a/c. Will make a mess of the bar though -- still thinkin!

Thanks - If the Dodge unit is no go with the Aero I guess I am back to the drawing board. Anyone fit an I/C with the a/c

I had a 9k IC fitted before the ebay-unit. With the AC-condesator fitted. This will work fine, but you will have to cut the towing-hooks and the bends will be viewable.

Daniel

Well hopefully this should solve some things... Turbonetics T3 super60 w/staged turbine, 3" inlet, oil and watercooled will be in my car soon!! I'm excited... at the same time I'll be getting rid of the hodgepodge 900/9000/volvo IC piping, and replacing that with an ebay aluminum piping kit. yay boost :p

per the recent discussion... here's a mockup of my ADRs painted silver. I'm on the fence.

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album47/mods.sized.jpg

I think the silver looks great.

The wheels look bigger, and break up the car a bit.

No question, that's it!

Yup, thats it alright. The black is too dark, makes the whole car quite dull.

Well, if all my internet friends say it's cool, then of course! j/k haha

I actually do like it the more I look at it. Now I've got to decide if I sandblast/powdercoat, or hand-sand and paint myself.... Of course I lean towards DIY :cheesy:

In other news, I got the new Turbonetics unit clocked, and the plans for the wastegate all worked out. I'm actually using a WG bracket from an 88 9000 turbo, mounted backwards. It looks to be a good fit, minus a bit of trimming on the bracket that needs to be done. Bottom line is, I won't have any trouble with the actuator binding.

Now I've got to wait for all the various parts I've ordered online to trickle in. Buying online is great but waiting for shipping can be killer :roll:

Are you going to try and run an external waste gate?


If not, you should.

Are you going to try and run an external waste gate?


If not, you should.

I want to.

I really can't figure it out! Is there a good place on the manifold to weld on an external wg adapter? I don't see myself doing a divided DP from the stock wg opening... That would be very expensive as my exhaust flange is different than the "regular" 5-bolt. I think I'm just going to use the AMG internal WG. It's a bigger bore than the stock Saab wg, and it flows better apparently. We'll see.

3 inch inlet, turbonetics logo, and a nicely polished compressor housing (pic doesn't do it justice!)

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album59/P1010171_001.sized.jpg

more pics from the install. still waiting on parts from eGhey

my dad modifying a stock 9000 T3 wg actuator:
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album59/P1010173_001.sized.jpg


the section needed to be cut:
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album59/P1010175_001.sized.jpg

close-up, we've mounted the stock 9000 actuator bracket backward, and cut a small wedge so the actuator will sit flush.
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album59/P1260009.sized.jpg

all hooked up w/clocked compressor:

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album59/P1260007.sized.jpg


where we're tapping in for coolant line:
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album59/P1260012.sized.jpg

coulda sworn there was more turbo here before...
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album59/P1260011.sized.jpg

Daily drivers should not be project cars. Hah.

Still waiting on my IC piping to complete the job, then it's off to the exhaust shop for a new 3" downpipe. Here are some pics of the progress.

Turbo in:
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album59/P1280007.sized.jpg

Intake tapped for coolant (clear hose is temporary, so we can make sure the coolant is flowing!)
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album59/P1280008.sized.jpg

Lower coolant hose hooked up (block heater FTW!)
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album59/P1280009.sized.jpg


aaaaand... drumroll please....

my battery relocation > yours
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album59/P1280010.sized.jpg


the pic is terrible, you can't see the custom battery tray we fabbed up. The ground is all connected, just waiting to connect the + side. It'll look much cleaner when all the wires are connected and the IC pipes in place.



The oil drain had to be custom, because it interfered with the pipe coming off the turbo. We basically cut out the middle section of pipe and replaced it with oil resistant hose, so it can flex around the IC pipe. Hard to explain.

More to come.

just wanted to say that if you're contemplating buying one of those piping kits off eBay for your fmic project...

stop contemplating. buy-it-now.

I gotta say, I can't believe how impressed I am. I was expecting the worse - shoddy components of odd sizes, scratched pipes and flimsy silicone connectors.

Well the kit I bought is super nice. Exceeded my expectations fully and for $60 + ship I got 2 straight pipes, 2 90* bends, 2 75* bends, and 2 45* bends. Also got 2 90* silicone elbows and 6 silicone couplers, and 16 t-bolt clamps.

I ordered black piping and red couplers. Sorry if this sounds like an ad, I'm not affiliated with any of those companies on ebay. I just wanted to let you know my experience.

I've got the cold side of the IC plumbed, and will do the hot side tonight.



Here's what I ended up with, sorry for the terrible-quality cell-phone-cam pics:

https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/photos/photo12/42/fc/1b0798d91b07.jpeg

https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/photos/photo15/af/0f/bbc1d4130ee3.jpeg

in other news, I fitted my 3" coupler to connect the turbo up, so the intake is done. the K&N is fitted above where the battery sits, suspended in the air but I think I might move it.

https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/photos/photo15/f4/e5/f7c1b1a01512.jpeg

nice

i always wanted a shop + garage

Awesome!


Glad to hear that those pipes worked out for you.

Have you driven it?

havent driven it yet. still gotta hook up the hot side IC pipes, then get my downpipe made.

then... trionic redtops + jak's stg II on the way!! this beast is gonna fly.

how I roll:

http://www.t-mobilepictures.com/photos/photo18/07/1a/5b2682cdb7b6.jpg

trionic redtops are here. will get rebuilt today with new pintle caps, o-rings and filters.

above that is my new downpipe flange, we turned it on the lathe yesterday. The three-bolt flange is slightly different on the Mercedes AMG turbo, so we had to make a flange for the exhaust shop. The local turbo place was going to charge quite a sum to make one up, so... to the garage! :cool:

another pic of the new flange, has yet to be polished:

http://www.t-mobilepictures.com/photos/photo17/32/59/610b561c586d.jpg

I snagged some red tops from a 9000 for $free.99 from a pal.

Okay, change of plan. It was going to be way too expensive to get a custom downpipe made in 3" mandrel bends, can't go that route.

So it's DIY time. Sourced the local shop that makes the mandrel bends for every other local shop :roll: and will be picking up probably four u-bends, two straight pieces, and fittings in 3" for my new custom-built downpipe.


Thank you, Lincoln Electric.

Okay, change of plan. It was going to be way too expensive to get a custom downpipe made in 3" mandrel bends, can't go that route.

So it's DIY time. Sourced the local shop that makes the mandrel bends for every other local shop :roll: and will be picking up probably four u-bends, two straight pieces, and fittings in 3" for my new custom-built downpipe.


Thank you, Lincoln Electric.

Cant wait to see this. Making things with metal, probably the epitome of being a man. lol

Sorry to hijack but a question re down pipes. Given that most turbo outlets are 2-2.5" and that as the exhaust gas contracts as it cools on its way down the exhaust pipe, what is the benefit of a larger downpipe and indeed a full length big bore system greater than the turbo outlet

Sorry to hijack but a question re down pipes. Given that most turbo outlets are 2-2.5" and that as the exhaust gas contracts as it cools on its way down the exhaust pipe, what is the benefit of a larger downpipe and indeed a full length big bore system greater than the turbo outlet

I think part of it is simply getting rid of the stock 90* elbow. You're trying to get as much flow as possible out of the engine, and the exhaust gasses literally hit a wall after they exit the turbocharger. So using larger pipe with a wide bend is a great help to that. And as the exhaust cools it does contract, so my 3" downpipe will connect to my 2.5" cat-back exhaust.

Many gains have been reported from a large swoopy downpipe, many have labeled it their favorite mod on a c900.

I think part of it is simply getting rid of the stock 90* elbow. You're trying to get as much flow as possible out of the engine, and the exhaust gasses literally hit a wall after they exit the turbocharger. So using larger pipe with a wide bend is a great help to that. And as the exhaust cools it does contract, so my 3" downpipe will connect to my 2.5" cat-back exhaust.

Many gains have been reported from a large swoopy downpipe, many have labeled it their favorite mod on a c900.I have removed the battery to the back, wish I had seen yours before, and have planned for a "large swoopy" bend and connecting with my current 2.5" cat-back. I am still running a T357, standard, turbo which has only 2" outlet. Making a flange to take any more than 2.5" is very doubtfl.

I have removed the battery to the back, wish I had seen yours before, and have planned for a "large swoopy" bend and connecting with my current 2.5" cat-back. I am still running a T357, standard, turbo which has only 2" outlet. Making a flange to take any more than 2.5" is very doubtfl.

I saw pics of your battery relocation, looks teriffic. I couldn't do that, because of the convertible and the possibility of leaks. Didn't want to risk it. As for the turbine exhaust outlet, I have now switched to the Mercedes AMG wastegate swingvalve which has a larger 2.5" outlet. So my downpipe will start with a 3" - 2.5" reducer.

EDIT: OMG this thread is ten pages long!

Where are you located - it must be pretty late - it is just past 8:00am Friday here

Where are you located - it must be pretty late - it is just past 8:00am Friday here

2:00 in the afternoon here in Seattle-ish, WA

Curves so hot, I should label this post NSFW:

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album59/P2060008.sized.jpg

That's three-inch mandrel bent goodness right there.

In other news, external wastegate. More to come.

More low-quality cameraphone pics:

Genuine TiAL 38mm external wastegate:
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album59/02_09_07_1917.sized.jpg

Yep, it's real:
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album59/02_09_07_1918.sized.jpg

Flanges are on order.

Quick question - what does "clocking a turbo" mean

That means rotating the compressor-housing, so the outlet of the turbo points in another direction.
Daniel.

Sweet tial is the way to go... i didnt read the whole thread but are you doing a custom header with somewhere for the external WG or filing down the corner of a stock manifold? Ive only seen it done once on a stock manifold and it looks like it would be easy to accidently crack the corner by filing it down.

I went with a silver 44mm. so pretty.

You n00b!


Get back on TSL Kaylan!





:lol:

You n00b!


Get back on TSL Kaylan!





:lol:

why am i a noob palmer? did i say somethin wrong ;oops:

I want to.

I really can't figure it out! Is there a good place on the manifold to weld on an external wg adapter? I don't see myself doing a divided DP from the stock wg opening... That would be very expensive as my exhaust flange is different than the "regular" 5-bolt. I think I'm just going to use the AMG internal WG. It's a bigger bore than the stock Saab wg, and it flows better apparently. We'll see.

well palmer made me think i said something wrong, but if you still need help on the external WG thing i could take a pic of a friend car running an external WG dumped into the atmosphere from a stock manifold...

Aw, I was just messin with ya!



You know how I am!

Aw, I was just messin with ya!



You know how I am!

Andy you know i never take anything from you seriously. How can you take someone seriouse that you have seen pics of wearing a giant tampon?

apology via PM accepted now stop jackin this doods thread

/end jack

UPDATES:

First, we started cutting tubing for the exhaust. Looks like we'll need a lot less than we expected. This is going quite well.

Second, the two springs I have for the WG can be used together for a total of 20 PSI. I'm not going to run that much base boost... :o I'll be using the 8.7 PSI spring.

Third, I used a leftover IC pipe to replace the plastic over-the-transmission intake pipe. The stock pipe drops to 2.25" so the new one is 2.5" all the way. This worked out fantastic and I recommend it to all. The grommets fit more snug also, which is a major plus.

Fourth, new custom flanges arrived today. The 5-bolt had to be different because of the Mercedes AMG pattern from my turbine housing, so BMC Race came through with a custom job that looks fantastic. It's got a beveled edge, and is made for 3" piping (unlike stock, which has to step up to 3" after the flange). The result is a thing of beauty.

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album59/02_14_07_1321.jpg

This has little to do with anything at hand...but I must say you project is coming up on 5000 hits. Bravo!

I want to clock my T3 to take the outlet from vertical up (standard) to vertical down to facilitate the front mount. When I try the internal waste gate actuator gets inthe way - any thoughts

Well, it's done. But this post is worthless without pictures, the camera battery died before I could load 'em up. :roll:

The car started right up... The new upgrades since the car last saw the road:
-Battery relocation
-2.5" IC piping
-Added water cooling
-turbonetics t3 super 60
-tial 38mm wastegate
-custom 3" mandrel bent divorced downpipe
-trionic redtop injectors
-jak's stage II ecu chip

As for the exhaust note... it's... good. Surprisingly, some of the roughness of the burble was smoothed out, and it seems quieter. Not loud at all.

A big thanks to Stan's Headers, BMC Racing, IllTech Auto Salon, Jak Stoll Performance, and of course my dad, who did most of the cutting, welding, and engineering of the downpipe.

You'd think I'd call it good here, but I couldn't help but plan my next upgrade.

Yep.
http://www.genuinesaab.com/catalog/images/9178955.jpg

I think the only question that needs to be asked now is....what'll she do? :o

ok
im jealous

congrats... your car is sick.

ok, here are the pics. there are many more, so go take a look in the gallery for the full meal deal. Here's a preview:

engine bay with new intake pipe + battery relocation
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album68/P1010172.sized.jpg

new IC piping
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album68/P1010174.sized.jpg

first section of DP:
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album68/P1010178.sized.jpg

duct tape > tack welds
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album68/P1010182.sized.jpg

more pics...

bolting up the WG:
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album68/P1010185.sized.jpg

battery in place:
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album68/P1010196.sized.jpg

WG return pipe tacked
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album68/P1010193.sized.jpg

all done!
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album68/P1010198.sized.jpg

installed:
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album68/P1010199.sized.jpg

full gallery here (http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/album68)

teaser for the next project:
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album68/P1010190.sized.jpg

looks awesome joe, looking forward to hearing about the results!
Daniel.

Dyno, dyno, dyno NOW!

i knew it... all good DIY'ers use duct tape for anything

I've got duct tape for my piston rings.

That DP makes me happy.


Nice as always...

looks amazing, and we definatly need to get a dyno day figured out. asap.

thanks for the kind words, fellas. :cheesy:

if any of you are thinking of DIYing the downpipe, here's what we ended up using:

-two 3" mandrel u-bends
-less than a foot of 3" straight pipe
-one 1.5" mandrel u-bend
-exhaust flange
-external wg
-wastegate flanges (in/out)
-o2 sensor bung

I bought more u-bends than I needed, so I was pleasantly surprised.

The way I have the WG mounted is kinda cool... For track days/dyno days/etc I can unbolt the WG, turn it around 180*, mount the blockoff plate to the return pipe and bolt on a dump tube to exit exhaust underneath the car. Sounds like a lot of work but it's only four bolts.

I should also mention that most 3" downpipes aren't true 3"... they come off the turbo at 2.5" then enlarge to 3" before the bend. Eliminating the WG swingvalve allows for a full 3" all the way, and it gives more room for the large sweeping bend. The bend coming off my turbo is huge, 135 degrees! Much better than the stock 90* elbow :D

Right, I've had enough. I'm fed up with reading about your mods and realising that I'll never have the time to do all of or even half of this. So pack it in, I don't want to hear about it anymore.

Absolutely fantastic Iron Joe.

Right, I've had enough. I'm fed up with reading about your mods and realising that I'll never have the time to do all of or even half of this. So pack it in, I don't want to hear about it anymore.

Absolutely fantastic Iron Joe.

You heard the man, shut this thread down! Heck, it'll probably save me money :lol:

A few driving impressions (since I've gotten some good seat time now)
-Lag: Yep, it's more noticeable. Not as much as I had expected, probably because of the new DP. Like I said before, I like lag. Saves gas around town.

-Torque: the low-end torque happens a little later, which makes this car instantly more driveable. It resists the urge to spin like mad after a spirited 1-2 shift.

-Boost/seat of pants: Right now I'm on the break-in period, running around 9-10 PSI (base boost, APC solenoid unplugged). I haven't decided whether or not to use APC or an MBC just yet. I like the complete control the MBC offers... Anyway, I can say most assuredly that the car now has more power at 10 PSI than it did with 22psi from the stock turbo. I can't wait to turn the boost up. The external wastegate is doing it's job perfectly, there's absolutely no taper at all. The needle of the boost gauge rises to a point and stays there. Glorious.

-RPM: the engine sings to exactly 6700 RPM and feels like it wants more. Some cars feel like they're about to implode at those engine speeds, but not here. Once again Jak has cooked up a magic chip that delivers perfect idle, great part-throttle and of course, fantastic WOT accel.

Initially I blew a few IC hoses off :cheesy: Tightened everything up and it's good to go. Watercooling is working just like it should, we were monitering it with clear braided hose.

All in all, this doesn't feel, sound, or drive like my car a month ago :o Kinda funny... it reminds me of a friend's modded WRX.

Anyway, I can say most assuredly that the car now has more power at 10 PSI than it did with 22psi from the stock turbo.

Perhaps, but you didn't feel the stage II chip with the stock turbo.

Perhaps, but you didn't feel the stage II chip with the stock turbo.

....and my stocker was on its way out :roll: Not a fair comparo.

Also my dash's printed circuit melted (WTF?) so I have no dash lights. Gotta swap that out tonight. Sigh...

What turbo are you using?


-T

Tyler, I'm now running a Turbonetics T3 Super 60 with a polished compressor housing & stage III turbine wheel. It's both oil and water cooled. It has a Mercedes AMG turbine housing which is larger and flows better, but uses an odd larger 5-bolt housing than the common ford/saab 5-bolt.

That sounds nice. I've been using just a run of the mill t3-60 from an old cougar for a few years now. I think I'll upgrade to something similar to what you have going on soon...or later.

-T

tune-up complete, with the exception of the fuel filter. I can't believe how easily c900's eat ignition parts.

tuning time...
First, I overtightened my MBC and broke it (cheap copy). Turbonetics VBC is on order.

Plugged in my heavily modded 900Aero APC, boost went way up and I got spooked! Knock LED works! I'd like to save some tire tread if possible. So I plugged in a stock late-model SPG APC I had lying around... which I think gives, what, 12-13 PSI stock? Well with my higher base boost, it yields around 16 PSI. A few blown IC hoses later, I'm pretty satisfied with the results, for now. Once I get my new MBC in, APC will be a glorified knock detector.

Results: 1st and 2nd are useless. Maybe better when I get my wide tires back on. 3rd is amazing, good for passing and onramps. New redline is teh f4st. 4th and 5th are reserved for good gas mileage, as either one would be law-breaking under boost.

Also for the first time in this car's life, a desired boost level is set, and it holds all the way. It's amazing how fascinating it can be to watch a gauge needle not move.Next up, gotta get on the rollers for some fine tuning, so I can see if I have room in my a/f to up the boost at all.

This weekend I think I'll be gathering 2.1L stuff and hopefully some more parts for my DI/APC conversion. More to come.

EDIT:

my MBC that's on the way. the last one was nice design (copied) but not well built. Materials left something to be desired.
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album68/vbc.jpg

Damn, Joe, sounds sweet. You're gonna have some huge forearms from all that torque steer :D

1st and 2nd are useless
:lol:

small update, new MBC is in, APC is out. Not really OUT, but just not controlling my wastegate at the moment.

In hindsight I should have bought the 25 psi one, I got the 0-50 psi control and it's a bit too touchy for me. But, the locking feature is very nice and it's well built. I have it installed to the dual-ports on the wastegate.

Right now it's set to about 16 or 17 psi, which is about the max I felt comfortable with after a few onramp-offramp tuning runs this weekend. My new turbo makes the coolest sound after 15 psi or so... it feels like you're making the jump to hyperspace :o

Also I changed my fuel filter. It looked like it hadn't been changed ever :roll: Don't know if it was clogged or not, but it's good for piece of mind.

Turbonetics VBC installed:
http://www.t-mobilepictures.com/photos/photo30/fa/ef/31cf808577d3.jpg

glad to see youre car is coming along nicely

wish i had your DP.

Calling dibs on your car when it kills you. :cheesy:

Looks great man, makes me feel like poo poo for not starting to mod yet.

It's an 85, so they're non-vented, and I would assume that makes the drilling much simpler. -Tyler



http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c183/SwedenLo/frontrotor1.jpghttp://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c183/SwedenLo/rearrotor1.jpg

Yes Solid rotors are much easier, I actually did these myself, using a similar method as you metioned tyler, I would do a couple things differently, but overall I am very happy, took FOREVER it seemed. The front rotors are drilled every 16.5 degrees and the rear rotors every 20 degrees...

We've been through it before, but I'm still of the oppinion that you shouldn't drill rotors yourself. You can't be sure if the metal can cope with it and might crack under hard braking, with some very nasty consequences to follow. Why not just buy the real stuff, since it's available???
Daniel.

It's almost April, time for the rims to come out. But as usual, I ran into complications.

The wheels I bought had two not-so-great tires, and two good tires. One of the not-so-great tires has a bubble. unsafe. That wheel's rim also has a very slight bend. I knew this when I took it off.

Yesterday I pulled the wheels out, and found a similar bend on another rim. It's on the inside and barely noticeable, but I consider it unsafe. So I have two tires to buy, and two rims to repair. :evil:

I've been searching like a madman for cheap-o replacement tires that match, the best I could do with shipping was $160. But for $80 more, I could get 4 new tires of a BETTER brand, and in a larger size. I'm running 205/40 now, but I want to fill the wheel gap like a madman and get 215/45 (like vince T's saaboteur) This is getting expensive fast. The wheel place charges $80/rim for straightening. Not to mention the mounting, balancing and dismounting that needs to happen.

Plus I'll be refinishing them myself, so I still won't have them done til the end of April. Sigh.

Lesson learned: don't buy used wheels or tires.

Well, got my wheels repaired. Then I spent two days with paint stripper, paint thinner and elbow grease.

BTW the pics lie! The finish is terrible. will look great after paint. Here's my (used to be black) wheels:

http://www.t-mobilepictures.com/photos/photo30/37/27/3f981358c68f.jpg

http://www.t-mobilepictures.com/photos/photo25/bd/6f/f760108eefff.jpg

Almost all the black came off. Going to sand them down, primer grey, then shoot the silver and clear coat.

looking :cool: :cool: , keep up the good work.........;)

Paul

_____________________________________________
Overkill is consistently more fun..............................

Are those Kahn RSR copies?

Hey Joe, do those wheels fit fine? I noticed you have spacers on the rear wheels...I'm planning to get some 17x7's sometime, but I'm afraid the offsets are wrong. I've got the 15-spoke teardrops, which are 15x5.5 ET40's I believe...17x7 @ ET40 isn't really going to fit just like that, is it?

li Arc

Matthew, they are Volk Racing Daytona Speed copies.

Li Arc, 17x7 et40 *just* fit with 205/40 tires. I bought spacers for the rear just for piece of mind, but never ran them.

But I just bought new tires yesterday, 215/45 which are wider and I think I'll want to use the spacers. Should help to fill the wheel gap better, without having to lower the car any more! The 205/40 were rubber band tires, looked funny.

duct tape > tack welds

I was wondering what the easiest way to build a custom exhaust was..

Did you duct tape the exhaust sections up as you cut them and then just tack weld through the duct tape until you welded it fully?

I shall have to try that.

Work so far is great! :)

you got it tomarse. first we altered some hose clamps by cutting holes in each side, so there would be a spot to tack weld. But, this became tedious to remove over and over. So, we just used duct tape, and cut a small section out to tack weld once we had got the angle right.

I've been putting some work into my 'vert lately, as the weather has been nicer. After getting my 17's mounted up, I decided to work on the exterior a bit more.

I removed the rear panel from the car (where the license plate bolts up) and repainted it, also I hit the taillights with a good amount of clearcoat (makes them look brand new!) and sealed up a few leaky spots between the taillights and the body.

Rear panel:
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album72/P4040001.sized.jpg

I've just now started cleaning up the engine bay. Since my radiator imploded itself and spewwed coolant everywhere, the whole area has become very dirty. And doing the turbo swap outside in the rain caused a lot of oxidization on the aluminum parts. I've never really cleaned my engine before... it seems like I'll have to take it all apart just to get it clean!

I'm also going to ditch the MBC and try once again to mod my APC using the saab-daniel APC mod. I'm not sure why it didn't work before, and I'd rather try that before shelling out the big bucks for the SD Stage 4 box. Although that might happen anyway :roll: Either way, Taylor's airflow SPG being parted because of overboosting with an MBC definitely scares me!

E-codes + HIDs are in the mail. Dyno day is next week. The sun is starting to show itself in Seattle. It's convertible season!!!

Dude, Taylor put that MBC in. No one knows for sure what happened to the engine.

I know.

I'm spooked. Nobody likes a car that's scared to accelerate.

Just remembered, I got a MIG welder! Woot woot. Now I will make a really nice 3" exhaust from the spinny thing back.

I wouldn't worry too much, who knows what that guy did to it after he bought it...

"it says here if i turn my MBC this way i can go teh fastarz!"

Nah, he had JSP do some hardcore tuning to it. Probably was too much for the engine, or he had some fueling problems.

I'm thinking he thought jaks fueling work was enough to cover a shootload more boost than it could. That or bad gas is my bet...if it was just 'too much power' it would have to have been a LOT of power.

I haven't heard exactly how the engine done broke - Supposedly the bottom end is still good and he's selling the head so that must be good - I'm guessing cracked/holed piston?

The problem was he was driving around with 30 lb/hr injectors and went crazy with the boost. Jak's chip works really well but only up to a certain point, thats why he makes a stage 2;)

Yikes. Thanks for the info. From now on I'm using protection! :o





Also, 12 pages?!

Why not just stay with mbc (manual boost control, I presume?) and a knock-led. Of course a modded apc is the safest way, but mbc is easier. You have to make sure the engine gets enough gas even with the apc, so my first purchase would be wideband o2-sensor and a afr-gauge.

Why not just stay with mbc (manual boost control, I presume?) and a knock-led. Of course a modded apc is the safest way, but mbc is easier. You have to make sure the engine gets enough gas even with the apc, so my first purchase would be wideband o2-sensor and a afr-gauge.

The only problem is that you, the driver, will never be able to react as fast as the apc - all it takes is one good pull on a hot summers day and you could blow up a piston!

The only problem is that you, the driver, will never be able to react as fast as the apc - all it takes is one good pull on a hot summers day and you could blow up a piston!

A working engine should not knock, bit overkill with fuel injection and cooling and you should be fine. I agree with you that a well working APC would be the best option, but this is not always possible.

Edit: APC does not know if the afr is going lean, with mbc you know even less. This is why I recommended lambda & afr-gauge.

Yikes. Thanks for the info. From now on I'm using protection! :o

Ribbed or smooth?:cheesy:

APC is back in.


All I had around was a stock SPG apc unit, and I didn't have time to swap out resistors. But with tweaking the pots (ahh, the good ole days!) it's hitting 20 PSI and holding to just under 7000 rpm. Which tells me that it's probably good for a bit more.


I blew another intercooler hose. kaboom.


Also, HID.
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album74/PC150578.sized.jpg

haha, this user manual is hilarious! I love engrish.
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album74/PC150579.sized.jpg


did everyone else's kit come with this blue thing?

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album74/PC150581.sized.jpg

Screw you and your PS3.

The PS3 is some machine driving games forbut I still love the the X-Box 360:lol:

Those HIDs will look fantastic in your airflow front Joe now hurry up and insall them you lazy bas:cheesy:

Hey Joe, I think that thing is part of the igniter...mine's brown. You should put it in when you can...you can't go back after it's in haha!

li Arc

yep I can't wait to install them! I'm just waiting on my e-codes, they're in the mail. Worth the wait though! US customs takes FOREVER these days, thanks bin laden :roll:

sha, I've been addicted to Motorstorm for ps3, it's quite the fun racing game. And of course there's Gran Tursimo HD in full 1080p... best free download evar.

Back on topic, I like doing mods that involve hole saws. I'm going to (finally) route my intake through the inner fender. What prompted this was noticing how annoyingly close the air filter was coming to the battery. Hopefully this will be done by the dyno day next week.

Joe,
I thought of doing the intake mod as well.
Any concern of lessening structural integrity by making holes in the car there?