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: Philjohnhb's black carlsson 'vert


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philjohnhb
19-09-06, 03:12 AM
Well since I asked for this forum I thought I'd better put my car in here.

Bought one month ago to replace my Orodorado 'vert this thing has everything on it I want except air con. I am using this as a daily driver so the project is part rolling resto and part performance improver.

So far I have done all the standard service jobs, a good way to get to know the car. Unlike on the last car I have replaced all the vac tubes with silicone, a real pain in the rear job but I have been surprised at how it restores the performance. The original rubber must have had micro holes in it. I have put in a pipercross air filter and you'd be amazed at the performance difference - bugger all! I replaced the front engine mount - the old one fell apart as I took it out, and the difference in driveline smootheness is remarkable.

The car came with a bridge spoiler on the boot lid, fine for some but not for me, so that's come off and I've resprayed the lid, removing all the high spots in the process.

The hood was almost new so I have dabbed some renovo restorer on it and now it really looks new.

I've started the painful process of restoring the 16" aeros with one done so far.

Plans for the car include the usual perf mods; 900 aero APC, FMIC(I have a 9000 one ready), 3" downpipe, dropped suspension, 9000 brakes and maybe some tweaks to the head.

When I get home tonight i'll post some piccies.

Jobs Done List - Regularly updated

4 wheels refurbished - Gear lever shortened - Gear lever gaiter replaced - Smoked side repeaters fitted - Coin/Cup holder fitted to centre console - Wooden Gear Knob - Dash, ashtray and centre console walnut made and fitted. - 900.aero APC mod carried out - Pipercross air filter fitted - Silicone vacuum hoses fitted - Front engine mount replaced - Steering wheel refurbished - Kilen lowering springs fitted - Front pads replaced with Pagid fast road items - Rear spoiler removed - boot lid resprayed - Drivers door scuffs repaired-door resprayed - Headgasket replaced c/w second hand head + new lifters - Front bumper resprayed - Dodge SRT 4 FMIC fitted - AND NOW the pipework! - Passenger window quadrant replaced - all windows adjusted - VW wiper delay mod fitted - Interior light delay relay fitted - Cooling fan switch bypassed - Sw on dash with LED warning - 1000 w stereo incl Sub in spare wheel - 'Carlsson' twin tail pipes - Ashtray mod-MP3 player stowage - Rear indicator lense tinted red - Grille 'Abbotised' - Interior door handles covered in leather to match seats etc - Centre armrest made to match seats - incorporating window switches - Dizzy vac advance modified - Clear front lights fitted (with silvered indicator bulbs) - Door cards and speaker grilles recovered - Centre cubby relined - Heater intake mesh fitted - Short Antenna fitted - Mintex fast road pads fitted to rear

philjohnhb
19-09-06, 03:17 AM
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/IronJoe/IMG_0612.sized.jpg


So here she is as I got her, don't be fooled by the digital picture, there's lots to do. The spoiler's already gone as have all the badges. I'm also getting rid of the plate too!

Saab-Daniel
19-09-06, 05:32 AM
That black one it JUST like I wanted a convertible to look like, if I where ever to get one :(
Daniel.

philjohnhb
19-09-06, 11:37 AM
I have done quite a bit of renovation work on the interior. The carpets would not clean up fully, even using a domestic VAX machine so I have put some of 'shauns saab spares' grey mats in to cover the immovable grot.

I have fitted a chrome and leather momo gear knob (very tarty I know). To achieve this I had to shorten the lever by about 2", doing that removes the reverse lock, not a problem, but it also leaves 1st and 2nd gear positions very sloppy. So I made up a metal plate to fit under the gaiter that screws to the centre console. This restricts the lever to the correct positions for both gears. The lever action is now slightly shorter than normal and the knob is a lot more comfortable than the original. I have also replaced the shot gaiter with a new one from Mr Gaiter for 10.

The seats were filthy but with liberal applications of Gliptone cleaner and then conditioner they have come up almost like new. The leather smell has returned too!

The carlsson style wheel had lost almost all of it's dye so I applied some shoe dye, then shoe polish and it has come up like new. (if you do this give it a good buff unless you like the palms of your hands black)

Like Iron Joe I have fitted a coin and cup holder from a Ford Taraus or Mercury Sable. I have fitted that under the DIN cubby in the centre console. It involved a lot of cutting and fiddling but now it looks almost OE and means I haven't had to move the radio to the centre console.

http://img74.imageshack.us/img74/1369/img0648tv7.jpg

philjohnhb
19-09-06, 04:59 PM
I am trying to post pictures but am having no luck - help!

Clearly I have now managed!

Alex
19-09-06, 05:24 PM
I am trying to post pictures but am having no luck - help!

Picture posting answers are contained in this thread (http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54050).

Matthew
19-09-06, 06:11 PM
If you want some free space for photos, drop me a PM. Got 40Gb disk space and only about 1Gb for my website! :roll: 900Gb bandwidth pe rmonth too :o

philjohnhb
21-09-06, 06:01 AM
I have now figured out how to post pictures with an awful lot of help from my son!

So just a side view of how the car was to start with, one of a wheel in progress and one of the boot lid respray.

I have just bought all the electronic gizmos required for the 900 Aero APC mod and for Daniel's mod. This weekend I'll be mostly soldering. I'll do the Aero mod and set it up properly first then try Daniel's. I figure that if I go this route it'll be easier to trace problems or errors. watch this space!
http://img367.imageshack.us/img367/2332/img0620rk7.jpg


http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/4643/img0613vu8.jpg



http://img367.imageshack.us/img367/9730/img0619uj4.jpg

nbell
23-09-06, 11:44 AM
Your project looks v interesting Phil, we will have to get together some time and compare, start a Hampshire SC chapter ;)

Specifically, I'm interested to see how my car compares to others with its Nutcase-modded APC (I have the original red box apc unmodded as a spare). Nutcase (Richard) told me how to tune it but I never got around to it, I suspect its not set for best effect;

"When I tuned mine I did this: Turn P (rise rate) right down. Find a long uphill road. Set F pot to a starting point quite low. Drive and floor it in 3rd. Watch the boost gauge (as well as the road). If it goes up and stays up then you can increase the F a bit more. Do this until you reach a point where the boost backs off. Back the F pot off enough to get rid of that.

Now start raising the P pot. Do the same thing, increase it until you notice the boost pulling back after its peak. Back the P pot off a touch until that goes away.

When that's done, get a calibrated boost gauge and see what your peak boost is, then adjust base boost to be about half that. eg. if you hit 1.2bar then set it to 0.6bar.
Should be nicely tuned then. "

Anyway you could try it as a baseline before you mod your own if you like, he modded it to the 9000 190bhp specs on 900aero.com.

philjohnhb
23-09-06, 05:18 PM
Yes we should get together, actually your motor should be in the projects forum.

Still haven't done the APC yet, life getting in the way!

Have fitted a dual SS exhaust, looks v nice and Carlssonish but trying to stop it vibrating against the airflow bodywork is a pain.


http://img386.imageshack.us/img386/3034/img0642br4.jpg


I have now managed to reduce the vibration against the bodywork to start-up only, I think I can live with that.

Edit 22 Nov 06 - no I can't live with the noise so now I have fabricated rubber mounts to go either side of the tail pipe. This set-up restricts the lateral movement of the pipe but still allows fore and aft movement. All noise has now gone and the car is back to being a smooth machine again.

nbell
27-09-06, 04:04 PM
Cool, next two weekends are full :roll:, maybe the one after?

philjohnhb
27-09-06, 04:39 PM
So, I have done the 900 aero mod and have started the tuning process. Of course I had to ask which way to turn the pots on the Mods forum, logic told me that clockwise was 'up' and anti 'down' but I had to check. I am using the method posted by NDBELL and so far, with some success. Some way to go still because finding the time to race up and down hills aint so easy.

Here are some pics of the car with refurbed wheel, refurbed steering wheel before and after, installed cup holder and gear knob and finally Abbot style grille.
http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/2741/img0653ta1.jpg



http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/9243/img0644zr0.jpg


http://img243.imageshack.us/img243/3747/img0645bs9.jpg


http://img54.imageshack.us/img54/1263/img0618ds3.jpg


http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/1862/img0646qw7.jpg
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/images/statusicon/user_online.gif

nbell
27-09-06, 04:44 PM
..have started the tuning process...with some success...

Cool! Any chance of just copying your settings when you are done? I am interested to see how the original red box apc performs against the modded one.

Was just on ebay trying to get a boost gauge so I can check the settings accurately. Do you have one of these? I am minded to get a cheapie just for level setting, don't want it installed in the car permanently (no room as already have original saab gauge set).

And that grille looks RUDE, dude! :)

philjohnhb
28-09-06, 03:44 AM
QUOTEWas just on ebay trying to get a boost gauge so I can check the settings accurately. Do you have one of these?QUOTE

No I don't have a boost gauge but I have seen one made by TIM that has a scale almost identical to that of the standard gauge. I am considering fitting the innards of the TIM gauge in place of the standard one and printing the TIM values on the face of the standard instrument. Having said that I haven't had the binnacle apart yet so am not yet sure it'll work.

philjohnhb
30-09-06, 07:13 PM
Here's the latest:

I have just fitted a set of PAGID performance brake pads. I originally thought I might do the 9000 brake mod but after fitting these pads I'm not so sure. I've kept the standard discs and I have been really impressed with the increase in braking performance I have also been impressed with the reduction in apparent pedal effort.

They're still bedding in so i'll wait for another week or two before i'm sure.

UPDATE

2 weeks or more into using the PAGID pads and I couldn't be happier. They have bedded in well and provide a serious improvement over standard pads. The rear pads are up for renewal soon so i'll put some PAGID pads in there too.

philjohnhb
30-09-06, 07:25 PM
I have just finished fitting kilen lowered springs. The fronts were pretty straightforward to fit - spring compressors, tie springs to bodywork, wince and spanner! Came off easily and new ones went in a treat. That's great I thought to myself, the book says just undo a couple of bolts on the rear suspension,lower with a jack and out'll come the rear springs. Yeah right. So you undo the shock lower mount and then the trailing arm to axle bolt and down comes the....Bugger. So the rear ARB stops the arm dropping. Borrow another pair of jacks from a friend so that you can do the other side at the same time. Hey presto rears are out and in - job done. IMHO the car looks great dropped and it does handle an awful lot better. I was a bit concerned that stiffer springs wouldn't suit the convertible (torsional ridgidity and all that) but it feels good.

The plan is to run the car like this for a while and then remove the front ARB for a subjective view on which setup is best for me....watch this space.

IronJoe
01-10-06, 01:25 AM
pictures?!?! :cheesy:

also, can you measure how far you front bumper is off the ground? i'm thinking i need lowering springs, but i don't wanna destroy my airflow kit!

also, pictures?!

nbell
01-10-06, 11:58 AM
Phil, I ordered up a boost gauge with pipe etc, you welcome to lend to help fine tune your APC & base boost.
I know I went too far adjusting my modded APC, put the original red box back on yesterday and the car is much better :roll: (much 'stronger' all around with the FMIC now anyway) but could still do with a little more boost. So with the proper boost gauge at least that can be done accurately.

I pref have a second person in the car to watch the gauge - safer etc.

philjohnhb
02-10-06, 04:58 AM
pictures?!?! :cheesy:

also, can you measure how far you front bumper is off the ground? i'm thinking i need lowering springs, but i don't wanna destroy my airflow kit!

also, pictures?!


The front bumper is now 6" (15 cm) off the ground. The springs did exactly as described and dropped the car 20 mm (3/4"). Having driven the car for about 100 miles now i'd say they are a real improvement, the body roll in corners has been significantly reduced but the ride is only slightly stiffer than normal. It might be that I will need to change the shocks as they do not seem to be able to keep up with the springs, maybe i'll get used to it and not notice.

I will post pictures as soon as I get my camera back!

Saab-Daniel
02-10-06, 05:28 AM
The springs did exactly as described and dropped the car 20 cm (3/4").

You mean mm instead then, right? Otherwise, a 200mm drop is quite a lot ;)
Daniel.

IronJoe
06-10-06, 04:07 PM
Well I decided to get an aftermarket shift knob... I was going to call it "ricey" but I love how you put it...

"tarty"

Wow. That made me laugh so hard. I'm sure I'll have a good laugh about tarty knobs whenever I go to change gears. Hah! :lol:

philjohnhb
09-10-06, 03:20 AM
Finally I have got my camera back so here are some pictures of the car with it's kilen springs fitted.


http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/8224/img0775cg6.jpg







http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/3807/img0774lv4.jpg

philjohnhb
09-10-06, 03:24 AM
And some more.


http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/8585/img0776kp3.jpg



http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/4820/img0777wj3.jpg


The Carlsson Kit is often criticised for being a little clumsy at the front. I think that lowering the car largely eliminates the clumsiness.

philjohnhb
09-10-06, 03:37 AM
The car came with a 'wooden' dash and 'wooden' glovebox. Both of these were actually plastic wood with lacquer over. The lacquer was peeling and nothing was going to save them. In fact the glovebox lid looked just like what it was, as though someone had thrown a piece of Formica at it and hoped for the best!

I have removed both and found a perfect glovebox cover underneath. As for the dash, aftermarket dashes are more of the same (plastic) and real wooden ones are:

1. Rare as hens teeth and
2. Chuffing expensive ( one went on evil bay recently for over 150).

I have therefore decided to make my own. I have already cut the backing out of MDF and have bought 2 leaves of Walnut Veneer (total cost so far - 12). I will post pictures of the process once complete, even if it doesn't work.

philjohnhb
09-10-06, 03:42 AM
Well I decided to get an aftermarket shift knob... I was going to call it "ricey" but I love how you put it...

"tarty"

Wow. That made me laugh so hard. I'm sure I'll have a good laugh about tarty knobs whenever I go to change gears. Hah! :lol:

I'm not sure the phrase 'tarty' is used in the same way in the States, here it means (amongst other things) an over made-up, over dressed woman, if you get my drift! so I think anything a bit too flash for it's own good is tarty and that certainly applies to my gearknob, and my grille come to that.

Make sure you post some pictures.

IronJoe
09-10-06, 11:49 AM
That ride height looks fantastic! I'm very jealous, it looks perfect. What size of tires are those on the super aeros? They're a bit higher profile than I've seen on other cars, but in this case they fill the wheel gaps really good.

Question: what's going on with your right-hand side front wheel arch?

The tailpipes look great too, what's the OD of each twinpipe? I've ho-hummed back and forth for a while between those, and the viggen-style tip for the back of mine.

philjohnhb
10-10-06, 04:14 AM
That ride height looks fantastic! I'm very jealous, it looks perfect. What size of tires are those on the super aeros? They're a bit higher profile than I've seen on other cars, but in this case they fill the wheel gaps really good.

Question: what's going on with your right-hand side front wheel arch?

The tailpipes look great too, what's the OD of each twinpipe? I've ho-hummed back and forth for a while between those, and the viggen-style tip for the back of mine.

The wheels are Carlsson Aeros but with the centres painted silver not grey and the tyres are 205/50 16 Pirelli - P Zeros on the front and P6000s on the back. From other posts on the forum I have a feeling I might run into some problems with the wheels rubbing on the arches in the future, as it is, I haven't had any more than two people in the car since I fitted the springs so, no rubbing problems so far.

The front right wheel arch was incorrectly fitted by some numpty and has split slightly, hence the odd look - just another one of the jobs to be tackled.

As for the tailpipes, IronJoe you are a pain in the neck, you've had me out there with a tape measure checking the front spoiler height, on my knees reading the tyre size, the neighbours are going to start thinking I've got religion. The answer is I don't know but will go out with a tape measure under cover of darkness and get back to you.

philjohnhb
10-10-06, 09:25 AM
The tail pipes each measure 2 1/2 inches (65mm) outside diameter. The connector end is the same diameter as the exhaust so I had to sleeve it to fit.

IronJoe
10-10-06, 09:51 AM
The tail pipes each measure 2 1/2 inches (65mm) outside diameter. The connector end is the same diameter as the exhaust so I had to sleeve it to fit.

Hey phil can you go outside real fast and measure the distance between the steering wheel and the seat back? I want to make sure I have it just right j/k :lol:

My neighbors think something is broken every weekend, because I ritually have the car with either the hood open, front jacked up, toolbox out, etc. But something's only broken, say, half the time ;) I just put the shelby's back on for winter last weekend, I got some stares for the car being on jackstands twice in as many weekends!

philjohnhb
06-11-06, 04:14 AM
My head gasket blew on Thursday last week. I had been giving the car some welly, arrived at a roundabout and was enveloped in a white cloud. thought to myself 'some poor devil's in trouble' - looked 'round - oh that'll be me then, damn it.

I don't have a Bentley, just a Haynes so a lot of the work required is left to your imagination but it's just a case of unbolting things and unbolting more things, scraped knuckles and swearing until the head looks bare. Everything went well until the actual removal of the head, couldn't figure out what it was snagging on. Then I realised that you had to remove the entire spring tensioner assembly and not just the spring and plunger as implied in the Haynes.

With the head off the culprit was soon spotted, one of the waterways was badly corroded and the corrosion had finally reached No 1 cylinder.

For some reason that I still can't explain I bought a cylinder head on evil bay 6 weeks ago that had a new set of lifters. So when I discovered the reason for the failure I wasn't inclined to jump off the nearest bridge, salvation was already at hand.

While everything is stripped out I'm taking the opportunity to clean all the normally inaccessible parts of the engine, replace some worn or tatty parts and generally spruce things up a bit. Some piccies will follow.

I bought this car with a wad of bills from a specialist who had allegedley looked after the car for a number of years. Throughout the stripdown I have found stripped or rounded bolt heads and nuts, lost/discarded nuts and bolts in almost every crevice and even a 13 mm spanner! I will be contacting the last owner to make sure he's not still using the same specialist.

http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/4305/img0792hy7.jpg (http://imageshack.us/)

You can see the corrosion on the top left waterway.

philb
07-11-06, 03:28 AM
I'd be interested if you could post the specs on torqueing the head bolts from haynes. My mechanic says he followed it, but he also says there was no "90 degrees" final step. I've now got oil in the coolant :(

philjohnhb
15-11-06, 05:56 AM
Well the car is all up together again and running fine.

I must admit that I hadn't realised quite what a marathon the job was going to be. It's not so much doing the head gasket it's removing all of the ancilliaries that takes the time. Quite a sense of satisfaction at having completed the job successfully 'though.

The most strenuous and most nerve-wracking part of the job was turning the head bolts those final 90 degrees, even greased up and applying pressure evenly some of the bolts emitted a kind of screeching howl in protest. Doing the job sitting on the wing, one leg in the engine bay and one leg out with a breaker bar as long as I could handle was not something I wish to repeat in a hurry.

Throughout the rebuild I cleaned each bolt as I put it back, replaced most of the jubilee clips and generally scraped as much gunge off the various parts as i could - very satisfying.


http://img116.imageshack.us/img116/866/img0794wp6.jpg (http://imageshack.us/?x=my6&myref=)


http://img481.imageshack.us/img481/2382/img0795gv1.jpg (http://imageshack.us/?x=my6&myref=)

I turned the car over without spark plugs to allow oil to circulate without any pressure on the components, everything seemed OK. Fitted the plugs, turned her over and she started first time without drama. I'm not used to this, on HG jobs in the past it's always been a right palava trying to grt them started.

When I first drove the car, however, after about 5 minutes I started to notice oil smoke in my rear view mirror. At first I thought that I had blown something else at the time of the head gasket failure or worse had mis-diagnosed the initial failure. So I took the car to my friendly local Saab specialist. By the time I got there all of the smoke had gone, never to re-appear. I can only assume that when topping up the camshaft 'chambers' before fitting the cam cover, that I must have spilt some oil somewhere I shouldn't have, or maybe there was some post gasket failure residue in the Turbo or Intercooler.

The upshot is that the car is now running really well and, with the new lifters, is really quiet. Also the minor water temperature problems I had experienced have gone, which leads me to suspect that there had been a minor leak in the gasket all-along.

There is only one small snag. The head I removed was stamped 89 and the one I fitted is stamped 90. This later one has an additional water pipe next to and slightly below the top hose connection point. I have fitted a section of hose blanked off with a bolt for now and there are no leaks but I have no idea what this pipe is for - a later type water feed to the Turbo perhaps?

philjohnhb
15-11-06, 05:59 AM
With the head gasket work all other projects have taken a back seat. However, the home made Walnut dash is now nearing completion. I have applied some 15 coats of varnish so far and am waiting for it to harden fully before I give it it's final polish and fit it to the car.



http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/6677/img0780dk6.jpg (http://imageshack.us/?x=my6&myref=)




http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/1472/img0782ju6.jpg (http://imageshack.us/?x=my6&myref=)

philjohnhb
22-11-06, 05:28 AM
Now here's a cracker. Before the head gasket went, when I restarted the car with the engine warm the engine would sometimes have a very low idle and would stall if I wasn't careful. Associated, it seemed, with this symptom was that the brakes would pull to the left. In an attempt to cure this I had both calipers apart, cleaned and copper greased, all to no avail.

During the post gasket repair rebuild I used carb cleaner left, right and chelsea including the BOV, the AMM the intake butterfly and anything else you care to mention. I cleaned out a lot of crud in the process.

Since I put it all back together I have not had a recurrence of these symptoms, the tickover is steady no matter what the circumstances and the brakes pull up true every time. Can anyone explain how on earth this can be so - I'm not complaining, just puzzled.

rob beard
22-11-06, 06:28 PM
The car came with a 'wooden' dash and 'wooden' glovebox. Both of these were actually plastic wood with lacquer over. The lacquer was peeling and nothing was going to save them. In fact the glovebox lid looked just like what it was, as though someone had thrown a piece of Formica at it and hoped for the best!

I have removed both and found a perfect glovebox cover underneath. As for the dash, aftermarket dashes are more of the same (plastic) and real wooden ones are:

1. Rare as hens teeth and
2. Chuffing expensive ( one went on evil bay recently for over 150).

I have therefore decided to make my own. I have already cut the backing out of MDF and have bought 2 leaves of Walnut Veneer (total cost so far - 12). I will post pictures of the process once complete, even if it doesn't work.

That looks a lovely job Phil, that has inspired me to do the same.

You say that you bought 2 leaves of veneer, is one for the Instrument Bezel and one for the Glovebox Lid (can't tell with the pictures), thats my guess.

Are you going to glue the Walnut to the MDF?

What is the thickness of the MDF?

What is the thickness of the Veneer?

Did you use an old "stick on plastic bezel surround for the template)?

How are you going to adhere the Walnut to the plastic bezel, because when you take the old OEM plasic, rubbery surround off, the gaps between the very narrow raised parts is very narrow.

I am capable of doing this myself as I used to make Radio Controlled Aircraft, they held together very well until they hit the ground at 100mph in a vertical dive, I used to take them home in a TESCO bag in kit form:( .

I used to wet flat the varnish in between coats with 1200 wet and dry, after the final coat I wet flattted again and polished it up with toothpaste, its a superb buffing compound, takes forever but its worth it, Cheers Phil.

Rob

philjohnhb
23-11-06, 09:19 AM
I bought 2 leaves of veneer that were book-matched so it has taken nearly all of one and a little of the second leaf to cover the dash. What I have left will do the glovebox lid if I decide to do it.


The second picture shows the veneer already glued to the MDF. The Veneer is 0.6 mm thick I can't remember the thickness of the MDF but I'd say it was about 4mm.


I did use a black dash cover as a template but as it is slightly flexible/deformable I was careful not to cut the MDF too fine on the first go with the jigsaw. Once cut I kept doing trial fits until it fitted perfectly - a lot of trial runs. With that shaped I stuck the veneer to the MDF using evostick wood glue taking care to use thin smears and leaving no lumps. I then put great piles of magazines on top to weigh it down. Once dry,I used a V sharp knife to trim and then carefully sanded down the edges.


You're right, the gaps between the raised edges are rather narrow, nevertheless I managed to cut and shape so that the dash would fit within the raised bezels. I think the early dashes were not cut so narrow and fitted above the bezels.


As for the the varnish, I used clear 'watered down' 60/40 with white spirit, gradually increasing the ratio until final 2 coats at 100% varnish.


It has been very time consuming and you need a lot of patience - If you used to make model aircraft you must have patience in abundance so I guess you'll be alright - good luck!


http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/1472/img0782ju6.jpg (http://imageshack.us/?x=my6&myref=)


If you look to the left of the rear fog switch hole you can just about see the line of the book marked join. Happily with it fully varnished you can no longer see the join.

philjohnhb
23-11-06, 09:26 AM
Not 12 hours after I posted my remarks above about low tickover and the brakes pulling to the left (more accurately the brakes not pulling on the right) than the symptoms reared their ugly heads again.

I had been running the car for about 50 miles stopped in a carpark, returned after about 15 minutes and, once started, the tickover was as low as 400 rpm. While manoeuvering the engine would almost stall as I took my foot off the accelerator. Also the brakes work normally on the left front and do not engage normally on the right front (I say front for it is hard to tell what is happening on the rear wheels/brakes)

These problems are associated I'm sure but, as to why or how I haven't a clue.

unkleG'sif
23-11-06, 09:39 AM
show me a c900 that doesnt dip its revs (other than Nick's Ruby, but he mortgaged his house to buy a new AIC ;) )


i have learned the art of heel-toeing when my revs are playing up.... only seems to do it when returning to a semi-warm engine - i just live with it :roll:

not sure how these could be related however - 2 completey seperate systems
keep us posted tho
G

philjohnhb
23-11-06, 11:29 AM
show me a c900 that doesnt dip its revs (other than Nick's Ruby, but he mortgaged his house to buy a new AIC ;) )


i have learned the art of heel-toeing when my revs are playing up.... only seems to do it when returning to a semi-warm engine - i just live with it :roll:

not sure how these could be related however - 2 completey seperate systems
keep us posted tho
G

You're right, I can't for the life of me think how they could be related but they always happen together.

Could it be heat soak effecting both parts?

Having spoken to my friendly Saab mechanic, if a caliper fails to extend properly it shouldn't ever return and yet once the car has stood for a while all is back to normal.

philjohnhb
23-11-06, 12:15 PM
Just thought I'd post some pictures of my ICE install so far.

The head unit is Clarion and very good it is too. I have fitted a graphic equaliser in the centre console. It's half Din size and it boosts to 200 watts. I'm considering fitting a second one and using one to power the front speakers and the second to power the rears. I'm not after ear splitting power just good repro.

http://img393.imageshack.us/img393/9554/img0796jj1.jpg (http://imageshack.us/?x=my6&myref=)

I am running a 10 " Sub through this unit, powered by a 200w amp under the boot floor. i mounted the Sub on some MDF and have clamped that to the spare wheel. With the carpet cover over, can't be seen and sounds pretty good. As I say I'm not into blowing the windows out of other cars in a traffic jam.

philjohnhb
23-11-06, 12:20 PM
http://img48.imageshack.us/img48/6994/img0800sj9.jpg (http://imageshack.us/?x=my6&myref=)

So here's a shot of the Sub.

http://img393.imageshack.us/img393/977/img0798zg2.jpg (http://imageshack.us/?x=my6&myref=)

And the smart little tweeters. All other speakers are Alpine.

Plans are to fit some 6x9s in the forward facing panel under the rear seat and to find somewhere to fit some more speakers in the front. As with all of my ideas it'll be ages before it comes to fruition.

Update: 29 Nov 06. Just had a good look around area under rear seat and discovered what a silly idea the above is, no chance of fitting anything there. Will now have a look at the base of the hood well and see if I can hang some under there.

rob beard
24-11-06, 12:16 PM
I bet that sounds pretty good, but your tweeters in the dash look very nickable to some low life, espectially with the roof down, could you not get them slightly lower and spray them Matt Black, its a little bit like advertising "I am into ICE in a big way you ought to see whats hidden away" sort of thing, I always think like a criminal, I'm not though.

Are you also going to stain around the apertures/orifices where the switch gear,etc shows through, I think the SAAB walnut is very dark brown, but that maybe because of the end grain.

Cheers

Rob

philjohnhb
25-11-06, 08:06 AM
I bet that sounds pretty good, but your tweeters in the dash look very nickable to some low life, espectially with the roof down, could you not get them slightly lower and spray them Matt Black, its a little bit like advertising "I am into ICE in a big way you ought to see whats hidden away" sort of thing, I always think like a criminal, I'm not though.

Are you also going to stain around the apertures/orifices where the switch gear,etc shows through, I think the SAAB walnut is very dark brown, but that maybe because of the end grain.

Cheers

Rob

I guess you're right, the tweeters do stand out a bit. There's no reason why I shouldn't paint them - I'll add it to the list, promise Rob.

Since that photo was taken I have stained around the edges, i'll go and take another photo.

philjohnhb
25-11-06, 08:25 AM
http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/1886/img0822ay8.jpg (http://imageshack.us/?x=my6&myref=)http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/1484/img0826hr2.jpg (http://imageshack.us/?x=my6&myref=)

So here are a couple of pictures as it is now, I need to apply another 2 coats of varnish and then I think it'll be ready.

rob beard
25-11-06, 01:57 PM
can't tellby the pics, have you put a slight radii on the apertures/holes.

Rob

philjohnhb
26-11-06, 11:36 AM
can't tellby the pics, have you put a slight radii on the apertures/holes.

Rob

No I haven't chamfered the edges because it's designed to fit around the black plastic 'bezels' present on the dash I thought it wouldn't look right.

nbell
01-12-06, 04:44 AM
(other than Nick's Ruby, but he mortgaged his house to buy a new AIC ;) )

:lol:
Steady idle, mmmmmmmmmmmm ;)

unkleG'sif
01-12-06, 05:31 AM
nick mate,

a little off topic (sorry phil)... but just to let you know that i have replaced my original AIC with one that i spent 5 minutes cleaning.... unscrew the top with a 32mm (i think) socket, and clean out the body and pipes with carb cleaner and a toothbrush, and a carefull clean of the black, moving part.... put it all back with a blast of WD40, and i have yet to have ANY irratic or dipping idle issues, or stalling when i restart the engine when its warm, hot, or anything other than just purely cold!!

even gave the outside a clean, and now looks severely out of place againt the 150k mile muck on the rest of the engine ;)

G

nbell
01-12-06, 06:01 AM
i have replaced my original AIC with one that i spent 5 minutes cleaning....

Glad that worked for you G, but I have been down the same route and eventually cleaning did not help. On a 2nd unit too. Eventually I tired of it so went new, who wants to be mortgage-free anyway ;)

philjohnhb
04-12-06, 03:29 AM
nick mate,

a little off topic (sorry phil)... but just to let you know that i have replaced my original AIC with one that i spent 5 minutes cleaning.... unscrew the top with a 32mm (i think) socket, and clean out the body and pipes with carb cleaner and a toothbrush, and a carefull clean of the black, moving part.... put it all back with a blast of WD40, and i have yet to have ANY irratic or dipping idle issues, or stalling when i restart the engine when its warm, hot, or anything other than just purely cold!!

even gave the outside a clean, and now looks severely out of place againt the 150k mile muck on the rest of the engine ;)

G

Not off topic for me, I need to do this myself. Thanks for the tip.

ejenner
04-12-06, 03:54 AM
how do you think I feel when I bought a brand-new one for my BMW and it wasn't the cause of the problem! That was about 10k miles ago now and I've still not worked out what the problem is!

unkleG'sif
04-12-06, 04:32 AM
ouch.....
having been so ****y (swear filter may pick up c o c k y :confused: ) and confident before... got in Saabarella this morning and she was stalling all the way to work

that'll teach me!
she's loads better, but obviously not 100% (and she could do with a service really - bit lumpy on cold mornings)

g

philjohnhb
11-12-06, 09:33 AM
The interior blower fan has developed a rumble/dull rattle of late and as the rest of the car is pretty quiet and subdued (except when caning it) the noise is rather annoying.

Is there an easy servicing fix I can do to the fan/bearings or am I in the realms of sourcing a new fan?

Any tips on this appreciated.

philjohnhb
11-12-06, 09:41 AM
Having read a post on the Mods forum about trouble with the fan thermostat and modifying to provide a manual switch - I thought I might go down the same route.

The thermostat switch on my car works intermittently and, although I could easily have simply replaced the thermo switch (something i'll do soon) I thought I'd add a manual switch anyway.

I used the 'EXTRA' switch the car came with for the front fogs and wired direct from the thermo switch. A dead simple mod that gives complete peace of mind in traffic queues. I managed to source a switch from an NG 900 for the front fogs so now the dash has a full complement of working switches and no blanks.

Probably a bit lightweight this one but I thought I'd post it anyway.

philjohnhb
15-01-07, 04:15 AM
I have finally found time to fit my home-made walnut dash. It has taken so long because:

1. I have been away with work.

2. I managed to make quite a few mistakes in the varnishing process!

Throughout I was too keen to get on with it and kept applying another coat before the previous coat had fully dried, ending up with areas of un-cured varnish underneath an otherwise dry finish. So, every time I tried to rub it down I would expose some gloopy varnish and ruin the finish.

Eventually I found some patience from somewhere and took my time. I am now very pleased with the results.

philjohnhb
15-01-07, 04:18 AM
http://img452.imageshack.us/img452/7539/img0867hb9.jpg (http://imageshack.us/?x=my6&myref=http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/private.php?do=showpm&pmid=114913)

So here it is in all it's glory!

philjohnhb
15-01-07, 04:20 AM
http://img452.imageshack.us/img452/2732/img0868jx4.jpg (http://imageshack.us/?x=my6&myref=http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/private.php?do=showpm&pmid=114913)

And another picture, this time with the roof down and no flash.

rob beard
15-01-07, 03:27 PM
That looks mint Phil, what is the overall thickness compared the SAAB one, from the look of it, it looks better in my opinion, top marks from me, what did you stick it on with.

Cheers

Rob

philjohnhb
16-01-07, 03:30 AM
I'd say the overall thickness is 6mm and I stuck it on with EvoStick - very very carefully!


Thanks for the comments.

philjohnhb
16-01-07, 03:54 AM
The next little project for the interior is to make a walnut surround for the centre console. I have already cut the MDF backing and am in the process of trimming it to fit around the Audio kit and the cup/coin holder. This will be an easier job than the dash, far less complicated, and having learnt some lessons on the dash IU should be able to finish it sooner.

philjohnhb
16-01-07, 03:59 AM
[/url]
[url="http://http://img75.imageshack.us/img75/2481/img0871zx8.jpg"]http://img75.imageshack.us/img75/2481/img0871zx8.jpg (http://http://img75.imageshack.us/img75/2481/img0871zx8.jpg)
I have now fitted the second Graphic equaliser, one for the front and one for the rear. These give me the option of fitting further speakers if required and of retaining seperate control of each set. I also now get 400w from the standard speakers.

The 200w amp for the sub was not enough so that has been replaced with a 600w unit which I have mounted under the boot floor.

philjohnhb
26-01-07, 08:06 AM
I have just replaced 2 front tyres. When I bought the car it was equipped with Pirelli 205/50/16s and although I haven't experience any rubbing problems since lowering the car I thought I might look into going for 195s, incase a different tyre profile might cause problems.

Well, contrary to received wisdom and what's written on the rear of my original handbook, according to my suppliers database, 900s equipped with 16" wheels originally came with 205 section tyres and not 195s!!

That came as something of a surprise so I went with Kumho 205s, as they are not v expensive if it turns out to be a mistake. So far no rubbing.

While I was there I had the tracking checked and it was toe out as far as it was supposed to be toe in, with that adjusted the car feels really good. Since i'd lowered the suspension the car had been really sensitive to camber changes on the road, I'd put that down to the slight change in the suspension geometry but maybe it was toe out to begin with and lowering just highlighted or exacerbated the problem. I have no idea - whatever the car is now the most surefooted 900 I've driven.

philjohnhb
26-01-07, 08:12 AM
A wood surround for the centre console that matches the dash is the current bit of fiddling that's taking up my time. I have made it all in one piece, fitting around the graphic equalisers - should be ready to fit in a few days. I'll post pictures of the process soon.

I have also begun making a walnut ashtray cover, except that it'll not be an ashtray but a flipdown housing for my MP3 player - watch this space.

James Bond
26-01-07, 12:23 PM
Brilliant idea to put the sub in the spare.

--Have you secured it in any way, or is it happy wedged into the rim?

--Does the speaker magnet interfere with the wheel securing bolt?

philjohnhb
27-01-07, 07:06 AM
Brilliant idea to put the sub in the spare.

--Have you secured it in any way, or is it happy wedged into the rim?

--Does the speaker magnet interfere with the wheel securing bolt?

I have secured it using long bolts through the MDF and the holes in the wheels, I have used wing nuts on the other end so that I can remove in an emergency!

I am not using the wheel securing bolt for that reason but in that position the wheel doesn't move around anyway.

philjohnhb
27-01-07, 07:26 AM
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/8669/img0872jx3.jpg (http://imageshack.us/?x=my6&myref=http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/private.php?do=showpm&pmid=116760)
The MDF backing for the console surround

philjohnhb
27-01-07, 07:29 AM
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/5569/img0874we4.jpg (http://imageshack.us/?x=my6&myref=http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/private.php?do=showpm&pmid=116760)
with the walnut veneer applied

philjohnhb
27-01-07, 07:31 AM
http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/3630/img0878eg8.jpg (http://http//img145.imageshack.us/img145/3630/img0878eg8.jpg)http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/3630/img0878eg8.jpg ("")
And almost ready, 2 more coats and then rub down and polish, will post pictures in the car when ready.

James Bond
27-01-07, 10:44 AM
Sorry to be a nuisance, but do you think you could take a photo of the sub fixings to the wheel next time its convenient?

I'm going to get it done here, but my Portuguese is not good enough to describe it well......

TIA,

Peter

philjohnhb
27-01-07, 11:30 AM
Sorry to be a nuisance, but do you think you could take a photo of the sub fixings to the wheel next time its convenient?

I'm going to get it done here, but my Portuguese is not good enough to describe it well......

TIA,

Peter

Yes, will do - it's a bit dark just now.

Matthew
27-01-07, 01:42 PM
That waterway corrosion on the head is very bad, worse than I've seen before. What was the block's condition?

even greased up and applying pressure evenly some of the bolts emitted a kind of screeching howl in protest.
The bolts should not screech when they're tightened.

You have to lubricate the underside of the bolt head, as well as the threads. New bolts often are covered with a lubricating lacquer.

The head I removed was stamped 89 and the one I fitted is stamped 90. This later one has an additional water pipe next to and slightly below the top hose connection point. I have fitted a section of hose blanked off with a bolt for now and there are no leaks but I have no idea what this pipe is for - a later type water feed to the Turbo perhaps?
That's exactly what it is. More information here:
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85310

Phil, I covet your cup holder.

900t
27-01-07, 03:40 PM
http://img452.imageshack.us/img452/2732/img0868jx4.jpg (http://imageshack.us/?x=my6&myref=http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/private.php?do=showpm&pmid=114913)

And another picture, this time with the roof down and no flash.

Stunning car. I have no idea how you people can fit your feet into the RH footwell of a C900 like that though, ouch.

unkleG'sif
27-01-07, 05:32 PM
Stunning car. I have no idea how you people can fit your feet into the RH footwell of a C900 like that though, ouch.

its great for heal/toeing :cool:
G

TheRedBaron
27-01-07, 06:17 PM
its great for heal/toeing :cool:
G

Yeah I can only do a heel toe in certain pairs of shoes that I have which have sturdy, wide soles and big round toes (boots and my merrell shoes that are a half size too big). In a thinner moccasin style shoe my heel hits the center wall before I can blip the throttle (my feet are a little big). :cry:

Phil (or is it john?), your dash looks amazing. Even beyond the woodwork (which is very well done) all of the dials/vents/etc look like they've been really well conditioned and look factory new. Did you do anything to get them that way or was it just in great shape when you got it?

philjohnhb
28-01-07, 12:23 PM
That waterway corrosion on the head is very bad, worse than I've seen before. What was the block's condition?


The bolts should not screech when they're tightened.

You have to lubricate the underside of the bolt head, as well as the threads. New bolts often are covered with a lubricating lacquer.


That's exactly what it is. More information here:
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85310

Phil, I covet your cup holder.

~The block was fine, strangely enough.
-Like I said, they made a screeching sound even with the correct lubrication applied, perhaps my ears are a bit sensitive because I have had no problems since.

The cup holder is the standard DIN fitting item you can find on evil bay, just not fitted in the standard position. Treat yourself, go on - you will you will you will you will.

philjohnhb
28-01-07, 12:25 PM
Stunning car. I have no idea how you people can fit your feet into the RH footwell of a C900 like that though, ouch.

Thankyou, I know what you mean about the foot well. I'm just glad I don't have canoes for shoes.

philjohnhb
28-01-07, 12:27 PM
:cry:

Phil (or is it john?), your dash looks amazing. Even beyond the woodwork (which is very well done) all of the dials/vents/etc look like they've been really well conditioned and look factory new. Did you do anything to get them that way or was it just in great shape when you got it?

Lots of scrubbing and cleaning with rubber and vinyl cleaner from auto glym, the car was filthy when I got it. Mind you, digital photos can almost make a cow's a*r*s*e* look good.
Phil

philjohnhb
31-01-07, 11:31 AM
http://img368.imageshack.us/img368/7214/subdz8.png (http://http://img368.imageshack.us/img368/7214/subdz8.png)

FOR JAMES BOND
Here is a schematic of the sub mounted in the spare. I tried photos but it didn't seem clear enough. Obviously the bolt isn't the length depicted I just drew it that way to show its path.
Hope this helps

IronJoe
31-01-07, 12:08 PM
FOR JAMES BOND


shouldn't this read "FOR YOUR EYES ONLY"

:cool:

James Bond
31-01-07, 01:10 PM
Many thanks for the diagram.


I just noticed that your battery heat shield doesn't touch the turbo - do you have a special battery too?


Q :)

philjohnhb
01-02-07, 03:23 AM
Many thanks for the diagram.


I just noticed that your battery heat shield doesn't touch the turbo - do you have a special battery too?


Q :)

M had Q knock up a special battery, so special in fact that it went west 2 weeks ago so you'll be pleased to know that the replacement does in fact touch the exhaust.

legolas8888
01-02-07, 03:39 AM
Awesome!! This is some labour of love!! :lol:

I have always had a soft spot for the C900 verts but being not mechanically inclined I thought it safer to to get involved with a classic Swede :nono;

philjohnhb
01-02-07, 03:40 AM
Awesome!! This is some labour of love!! :lol:

I have always had a soft spot for the C900 verts but being not mechanically inclined I thought it safer to to get involved with a classic Swede :nono;

Thanks, not quite sure where the 'LOVE' bit fits in sometimes.

Actually it seems that a lot of people start with these cars with little or no mechanical knowledge then little by little, and with a lot of help from forums like this, they end up able to tackle most jobs. Give it a go! Just be warned - if you get a c900 it'll get under your skin. I bought my first one thinking it would be just a nice cheap car to knock around in. Now look what i've got myself into.

philjohnhb
01-02-07, 03:48 AM
shouldn't this read "FOR YOUR EYES ONLY"

:cool:

If you come up with any more 'funnies' like this i'll have to get my 'licence to kill' reinstated.

legolas8888
01-02-07, 03:53 AM
Thanks, not quite sure where the 'LOVE' bit fits in sometimes.

Actually it seems that a lot of people start with these cars with little or no mechanical knowledge then little by little, and with a lot of help from forums like this, they end up able to tackle most jobs. Give it a go! Just be warned - if you get a c900 it'll get under your skin. I bought my first one thinking it would be just a nice cheap car to knock around in. Now look what i've got myself into.

Had a H registered C900 S Aero (lpt with an Aero body kit) 11 years ago and absolutely loved it. :cheesy: Wife hated it because she thought it ugly :(

philjohnhb
01-02-07, 03:56 AM
Had a H registered C900 S Aero (lpt with an Aero body kit) 11 years ago and absolutely loved it. :cheesy: Wife hated it because she thought it ugly :(

Sadly; cheaper to change car than change wife!

IronJoe
01-02-07, 09:39 AM
If you come up with any more 'funnies' like this i'll have to get my 'licence to kill' reinstated.

You're not fooling anyone with that sub in the trunk... we all know it's a nuclear warhead ;)

philjohnhb
01-02-07, 01:21 PM
So that's where the WMDs went.

James Bond
05-02-07, 11:41 AM
Me again,

I'm in Lisbon this weekend and am going to dig out my bass amp (well, its a start).

Did you search much to find a sub that would fit in the wheel well without the magnet sticking to it (for example)?

Which make / model number did you choose?

I still think it the best adaption I have seen!

Peter

philjohnhb
06-02-07, 03:58 AM
It's a Boss 10" Sub. I did absolutely no research, bought it on EvilBay. Only when I got it did I start the search for a location - bit hit and miss I know. If you end up with a speaker that is too deep you can always build out the MDF mounting plate.

James Bond
06-02-07, 06:48 AM
Brilliant, thanks.

philjohnhb
10-02-07, 06:50 AM
The ashtray/MP holder It's been hard to mold the vwneer around the radius at the top of the ashtray cover but I got there in the end. The second picture was taken after just 2 coats of varnish.




. (http://3%20holder.http//img247.imageshack.us/img247/1792/img0893hm8.jpg)http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/2072/img0880pg7.jpg (http://http//img109.imageshack.us/img109/2072/img0880pg7.jpg)
http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/1792/img0893hm8.jpg (http://3%20holder.http//img247.imageshack.us/img247/1792/img0893hm8.jpg)

philjohnhb
10-02-07, 07:03 AM
Finally taken a picture - here is the console wood in place


http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/2628/img0890iy2.jpg (http://http//img207.imageshack.us/img207/2628/img0890iy2.jpg)
http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/5430/img0892jq2.jpg (http://http//img266.imageshack.us/img266/5430/img0892jq2.jpg)

philjohnhb
12-02-07, 03:34 AM
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/7581/dscn0026cp8.th.jpg (http://img443.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn0026cp8.jpg)http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/637/dscn0034eg1.th.jpg (http://img443.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn0034eg1.jpg)

I've been doing some remedial work on the front bumper. The previous owner must have thought the word 'bumper' was an imperative verb rather than an adjective, there were scrapes and gouges all over the thing. Many hours of scrubbing, rubbing, filling and painting later the thing looks as it should. I'll leave it for a couple of weeks before a final polish.

philjohnhb
19-02-07, 05:10 AM
I did the 900 aero mod some while ago and then spent some time fiddling with the F & P pots, treating both very gently. I was reasonably pleased with the improvement in performance but was not as startled as I was expecting. Then the other day I read someone elses post saying 'turn the F up fully and set the P at the 2 o'clock position'. Well I did that and wow what a difference. The car now consistently boosts to half way up the red and second and third gear performance is chuffing excellent.

I will have to invest in a decent boost gauge so that I can set my base boost properly.

I understand that base boost should be something in the order of 5.5 psi, is that so? I have read that some people have set their base boost at 7 psi, what is the benefit in this?

philjohnhb
22-02-07, 04:13 AM
When I first got the car I shortened the gear lever to accommodate the flash gear knob. I did it in haste and ditched the reverse lock-out and fabed a plate for the gate to ensure 1st and 2nd were easy to select. It worked but it wasn't 'right'.

Yesterday I got hold of another gear lever and, this time, shortened it properly. I removed the innards, extended the slot further down the length of the rod and shortened the lockout pin to the required length and threw it all back together. Hey presto - a fully functioning gear lever. Only now do I realise how sloppy the earlier arrangement was and I'm now back to smooth gear changing.

I also got hold of an interior light delay relay from the same place. Bit of soldering under the back seat and it works a treat.

The car feels almost modern now!

Marrk
22-02-07, 07:10 AM
I also got hold of an interior light delay relay from the same place. Bit of soldering under the back seat and it works a treat.

The car feels almost modern now!

I'm sure my 1987 convert has interior light delay already...have to check next time I'm home.

philjohnhb
22-02-07, 08:20 AM
I'm sure my 1987 convert has interior light delay already...have to check next time I'm home.

I'm told that it was an option and that many people didn't go for it.

KurBads
22-02-07, 09:05 AM
is there any chance you could ilustrate exactly what needs to be done to shorten the lever ... do you just need to drill a new hole for the pin and cut off come length at the bottom of lever ??? I suppose one needs to shorten also the inside thing that moves the reverse lockout pin ...?

I`m interesed to do it myself. Does ir really makes shifting smoother?

When I first got the car I shortened the gear lever to accommodate the flash gear knob. I did it in haste and ditched the reverse lock-out and fabed a plate for the gate to ensure 1st and 2nd were easy to select. It worked but it wasn't 'right'.

Yesterday I got hold of another gear lever and, this time, shortened it properly. I removed the innards, extended the slot further down the length of the rod and shortened the lockout pin to the required length and threw it all back together. Hey presto - a fully functioning gear lever. Only now do I realise how sloppy the earlier arrangement was and I'm now back to smooth gear changing.

I also got hold of an interior light delay relay from the same place. Bit of soldering under the back seat and it works a treat.

The car feels almost modern now!

philjohnhb
22-02-07, 09:56 AM
What I meant was doing the mod properly returnrd the gear change back to original. The first 'bodge' I did worked but didn't feel as good as it should.

I'll work on an illustration of what needs to be done.

KurBads
22-02-07, 10:03 AM
thank`s!

and what I wanted to ask if this mod REALLY make shifting smoother ... as the lever becomes shorter and the "elbow" ratio between uper and lower part of lever is different? is it WORTH doing this ... I just don`t have spare shift lever to experiment with ... :cool:

What I meant was doing the mod properly returnrd the gear change back to original. The first 'bodge' I did worked but didn't feel as good as it should.

I'll work on an illustration of what needs to be done.

IronJoe
22-02-07, 10:21 AM
Shortening the shaft is fine, but what you really want to do is this:

CLICK (http://web.archive.org/web/20050418000317/www.pajjakid.com/ubipa/short_shift_diy.htm)

This was one of my first mods, and it's held up for 5 years beautifully.

philjohnhb
22-02-07, 10:43 AM
[/url]
[url="http://http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/5434/gearjs1.png"]http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/5434/gearjs1.png (http://http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/5434/gearjs1.png)
Not a great diagram I know but:

1. Remove entire gear lever from car.
2. Remove gear knob.
3. Remove 'nappy pin' and slide off UJ and selector sphere.
4. Straighten lock-out pin where it feeds through the hole in the top of the lock-out lever. Slide lock-out lever off.
5. Decide how much you want to shorten the lever and lengthen the locating slot (green) by that amount.
6. Shorten the lock-out pin by the same amount.
7. Shorten the top of the lever by the same amount.
8. Reassemble in reverse - remember to bend the top of lock-out pin as before to hold it all together.

KurBads
23-02-07, 10:36 AM
Thank`s for the drawing!

James Bond
06-03-07, 11:55 AM
Sorting out the gear for doing the mod.

Question, please.

I have a G&S C1000 two channel bass amp which used to drive two speakers. Is it ok to use just one channel of the amp to drive the single speaker in the spare wheel?

I guess i will pair up the inputs so I get a mono signal in, but am not sure about leaving an output unloaded.

Or can I bridge the output?

Can't find any useful info about the amp..

Any help welcome!

philjohnhb
07-03-07, 03:28 AM
Sorting out the gear for doing the mod.

Question, please.

I have a G&S C1000 two channel bass amp which used to drive two speakers. Is it ok to use just one channel of the amp to drive the single speaker in the spare wheel?

I guess i will pair up the inputs so I get a mono signal in, but am not sure about leaving an output unloaded.

Or can I bridge the output?

Can't find any useful info about the amp..

Any help welcome!

I think you need to bridge the output i.e. Neg from the Left and Pos from the Right.

philjohnhb
12-03-07, 07:02 AM
Shortening the shaft is fine, but what you really want to do is this:

CLICK (http://web.archive.org/web/20050418000317/www.pajjakid.com/ubipa/short_shift_diy.htm)

This was one of my first mods, and it's held up for 5 years beautifully.

Well that looks like like a good mod too, i'll see if I can dig out some suitable aluminium spacers.

philjohnhb
12-04-07, 03:52 AM
I've left this site dormant for a while, mostly because I haven't had time to do anything to the car lately.

http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/3793/dscn0023gs6.jpg (http://imageshack.us/?x=my6&myref=http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/private.php?do=showpm&pmid=119335)

http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/946/dscn0033wc2.jpg (http://imageshack.us/?x=my6&myref=http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/private.php?do=showpm&pmid=119335)

Some while ago a certain chap from the other side of the pond with a car very similar to mine got hold of a Dodge SRT 4 intercooler for me. Service above and beyond the call of duty I think.

I have only now got around to fitting the thing. The tow hooks had to come off, a nice easy job with an angle grinder. With those removed lining the thing up was easy.

I wanted the whole assembly to be sturdy and solidly mounted rather than relying on the pipework to support it. My solution was highly technical - I have used some galvanised shed door hinges, bent at all the correct angles, using new bolts with nylock nuts. So now if anyone calls my car a shed I won't be able to object.

The I/C is a well made piece of kit and with a quick spray of some silver paint I had in store, the thing looks new and lovely!

Pipework? - Ah, well I haven't plumbed it in yet, I considered using a collection of breaker parts and and those used for the stock I/C but have decided to use one of those custom kits available on evil bay, so watch this space for installation pics and performance report.

philjohnhb
12-04-07, 04:08 AM
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/8757/dscn0031xw5.jpg (http://imageshack.us/?x=my6&myref=http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/private.php?do=showpm&pmid=119335)

More of the same, It was quite dark when I took this so sorry about the poor definition.

http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/3549/dscn0035bu0.jpg (http://imageshack.us/?x=my6&myref=http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/private.php?do=showpm&pmid=119335)

It can be seen from this that this particular I/C is not suitable for a non Carlsson/Airflow equipped car.

philjohnhb
12-04-07, 04:14 AM
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/1870/dscn0036hx4.jpg (http://imageshack.us/?x=my6&myref=http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/private.php?do=showpm&pmid=118718)

You can just make out the downward facing inlet, strangely - oval in shape!

http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/2568/dscn0037xc7.jpg (http://imageshack.us/?x=my6&myref=http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/private.php?do=showpm&pmid=118718)

Love it!

IronJoe
12-04-07, 10:47 AM
Nice work!!! That really looks fantastic. I should mention, though, before its mounted solid, you should refit the bumper to make sure it fits in perfectly.

Your mounting job is very well done, I'm going to have to remount mine now :o

That oval inlet is sort of... weird. It's very important to run the piping as high up as possible. Mine sits about level with the skid plate, for reference. I used a chopped 90* elbow coming off the inlet, to keep the piping off the floor :o I'll find you a pic.

Here ya go:

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album68/P1010174.sized.jpg

philjohnhb
13-04-07, 04:11 AM
I should mention, though, before its mounted solid, you should refit the bumper to make sure it fits in perfectly.



Already done, I think I did pretty much the same as you - lots of measuring, dangling bits of string, squinting from funny angles. The whole thing fits perfectly - just waiting for the pipe kit.

A great discovery of yours by the way - almost as though it was made for the Airflow bumper.

Albert Trout
13-04-07, 04:25 AM
I'm loving that Phil. Looks right at home.

philjohnhb
16-04-07, 03:30 AM
I've now fitted up the modified ashtray as a discreet MP3 player mount. It required lots of fiddling but has, I think, finished up as a simple solution and no tealeaf nosing around the car will see it to nick it.


http://img459.imageshack.us/img459/7205/img1010tx1.jpg (http://imageshack.us/?x=my6&myref=http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/private.php?do=showpm&pmid=127290)

http://img459.imageshack.us/img459/9843/img1012sp0.jpg (http://imageshack.us/?x=my6&myref=http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/private.php?do=showpm&pmid=127290)

http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/5111/img1011oi4.jpg (http://imageshack.us/?x=my6&myref=http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/private.php?do=showpm&pmid=127290)

The inside isn't finished yet - just waiting for some material to replace the door side panels and rear speaker panels and I'll use some of the same to cover the inside. I'll also use the same material to recover what's left of the cubby below the cup holder.

philjohnhb
16-04-07, 03:43 AM
I have replaced the 'tarty' - 'ricey' gear knob with a Saab style original. It came with a quadrant depiction in the centre but I thought I'd risk forgetting the layout of the gears and replaced it with a Saab badge - love it. Typically the Saab badge was too bigh for the recess in the knob so I had to file it down very gradually and very carefully.

http://img396.imageshack.us/img396/5682/img1009ok0.jpg (http://imageshack.us/?x=my6&myref=http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/private.php?do=showpm&pmid=127290)

http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/1879/img1005zu6.jpg (http://imageshack.us/?x=my6&myref=http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/private.php?do=showpm&pmid=127290)

philjohnhb
16-04-07, 03:48 AM
Gratuitous roof down shot just 'cos I can. Weather like this in the UK in mid April and George Dubleya doesn't believe in global warming - Mmmmm.

http://img160.imageshack.us/img160/6982/img1013jr8.jpg (http://imageshack.us/?x=my6&myref=http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/private.php?do=showpm&pmid=127290)

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/1671/img1017kv4.jpg (http://http//img442.imageshack.us/img442/1671/img1017kv4.jpg)

ejenner
16-04-07, 04:02 AM
tealeaf nosing around the car will see it to nick it.

unless they saw it on here first.

looks like this thread has been racing along in the background without me seeing any of it. I'll have to have a catch-up at some point. Some good stuff going on!

philjohnhb
16-04-07, 04:09 AM
unless they saw it on here first.




Mmmm good point - I thought I could trust you lot!

Saab-Daniel
16-04-07, 04:16 AM
Where's the car parked on nights then Phil? :cheesy::lol: :nono;
Hehe ;)
Daniel.

philjohnhb
16-04-07, 04:20 AM
Where's the car parked on nights then Phil? :cheesy::lol: :nono;
Hehe ;)
Daniel.

Never trust anyone with a black car, too mean and moody - er hang on a minute!

Saab-Daniel
16-04-07, 05:02 AM
Never trust anyone with a black car, too mean and moody - er hang on a minute!

Takes one to know one ;)
Daniel.

woywitka
16-04-07, 03:11 PM
Very tasteful. Your attention to detail really shows. That wood dash is very well done, the grain is beautiful and it flows with the interior nicely. IMO the wood dash really only works well in Grey, Black, and Tan leather cars. I once saw a wood dash in a Colorado Red interior and I thought I was in 1974. Imagine in a blue interior?

IronJoe
16-04-07, 04:39 PM
I second that, phil. Your detail is really amazing, you put a lot of work into the little things, makes all the difference. Your interior is fantastic! And this is coming from a guy who hates woodgrain :cheesy:

Our cars really are twins, you should come over and do a photoshoot with me. It's not that far ;)

philjohnhb
18-04-07, 03:39 AM
Our cars really are twins, you should come over and do a photoshoot with me. It's not that far ;)

Wouldn't that be something! (obviously yours is the unruly twin).

Not too far - just as far away as you can get in the northern hemisphere.

philjohnhb
18-04-07, 03:51 AM
The dash/interior lighting in our cars is B awful IMHO. I have spent some time trying to improve/maximise the effect of the standard setup, all to no avail. I then saw the effect of small LEDs strategicaly positioned to flood illuminate the dash and other parts in a friends BMW X5 so have done something of the same in my car. I have started by fitting a green LED on the underside of the rear view mirror. I positioned it such that the bulb cannot be seen from the driving position but it floods the centre console from the radio down to the roof switch and back to the gear lever. As it is green it fits in with the original lighting, illuminates everything in its path well but does not distract, I'm chuffing pleased with the results and will think now of where else I might fit some.

No point an any photos as it is all but impossible to see.

philjohnhb
20-04-07, 09:15 AM
http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/1671/img1017kv4.jpg (http://http//img442.imageshack.us/img442/1671/img1017kv4.jpg)

I would like to fit some clear corners to the front of the car - looks particularly good with grey and black cars - but the one thing stopping me is the unavailability of clear rear indicator lenses, the whole thing would look unbalanced from the side. I also think the contrast between the orange of the rear lenses and the yellow of the rear plate looks wrong, particularly in the flesh. I have thought about smoking the lenses but think it would look too much on a black car - has anyone done it? (to a black car I mean).

There is, of course, red dye/spray available - maybe spraying the indicator lenses only in red would sort it? Thoughts anyone?

IronJoe
20-04-07, 09:45 AM
well you've seen mine... I smoked the tops, ala 9000 aero tails.
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album55/P9130307.sized.jpg


but there's another option, one I'll probably attempt in the future. from a thread a while back:
I was not a huge fan of the factory tail lights on my car, having the clear front corners and side markers the tail lights were the last step. i found some office light covers that had the same pattern and started workin. i cut out the entire top section of the lights and started the looooooong process of cutting and fitting. we have a heat strip at my shop that heats plexi-glass to bend it as we do custom t-tops a lot. i used that to bend the new lens. i turned it on and left of hanging over the side of a bench and let gravity do the work. it took me like 2 weeks to get them both done, but it was one of the better mods i did looks wise. i was thinkin about doin a few sets and selling them but i need to get it down to a science first, the next step it doing a set on a 3 door.

pics:
http://www.nysoc.com/albums/album63/P0011906.sized.jpg

the car:
http://www.nysoc.com/albums/album63/P0011900.sized.jpg


thx to jon1 for the photo hosting, as always :cheesy:

philjohnhb
20-04-07, 02:39 PM
http://img112.imageshack.us/img112/7564/img1021ph4.jpg (http://http//img112.imageshack.us/img112/7564/img1021ph4.jpg)

Thanks for that Iron Joe. I like the dark tint but I didn't think it would look so good with a black car!? Sol, this is what I've gone for - I put stripes of tape across the visible light area and sprayed 3 coats of red lense tint. I then removed the tapes and sprayed another 3 coats. This way I have dark red on the sides and on the unmasked part of the lense and light red/orange on the masked bits. Overall red in colour, hint of orange in the visible light area. Hopefully this will be within the law here. What do you think?
http://img112.imageshack.us/img112/9546/img1022ar4.jpg (http://http//img112.imageshack.us/img112/9546/img1022ar4.jpg)

http://img112.imageshack.us/img112/4680/img1023pw1.jpg (http://http//img112.imageshack.us/img112/4680/img1023pw1.jpg)

The lenses still need a polish but the paint hasn't cured yet.

philjohnhb
20-04-07, 02:53 PM
I thought about doing the clear lenses - even got hold of a strip light cover to do the same as the guy with the 4 door but figured that without the E code and various other marks some eagle eyed MOT tester would reject them.

philb
20-04-07, 08:06 PM
That looks absolutely fantastic. It looks like an oem finish. Have you got a photo with more of the car in it ? Looks great in the photos you have there anyway. I'd be tempted to do this on my 3dr.

IronJoe
21-04-07, 01:35 AM
About the tape part... I don't get it?

legolas8888
21-04-07, 02:45 AM
http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/1671/img1017kv4.jpg (http://%5Bimg%5Dhttp//img442.imageshack.us/img442/1671/img1017kv4.jpg%5B/img%5D)

I would like to fit some clear corners to the front of the car - looks particularly good with grey and black cars - but the one thing stopping me is the unavailability of clear rear indicator lenses, the whole thing would look unbalanced from the side. I also think the contrast between the orange of the rear lenses and the yellow of the rear plate looks wrong, particularly in the flesh. I have thought about smoking the lenses but think it would look too much on a black car - has anyone done it? (to a black car I mean).

There is, of course, red dye/spray available - maybe spraying the indicator lenses only in red would sort it? Thoughts anyone?

Wow! what a labour of love:D

philjohnhb
21-04-07, 09:53 AM
About the tape part... I don't get it?

If you look at the last photo you can see lines in the finish, some orangy red, some red. I blocked out some of the lense for 3 coats then took the tape off for a further three. I now have a lense that looks red but when the indicators are illuminated it shows up orange - more so in the areas that were taped, the idea being that it'll be orange enough to get past the testers.

philb
21-04-07, 03:26 PM
If you have orange bulbs in there it should be fine.

saabchilten
21-04-07, 03:33 PM
yea, i'd think that if you put on just enough paint for a red appearance, it would still look orange when the signal flashes. however, i like the appearance of that. i'd definitely do it.

philjohnhb
22-04-07, 04:54 AM
That looks absolutely fantastic. It looks like an oem finish. Have you got a photo with more of the car in it ? Looks great in the photos you have there anyway. I'd be tempted to do this on my 3dr.

Here you go.
http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/5642/img1024jp6.jpg (http://http//img249.imageshack.us/img249/5642/img1024jp6.jpg)

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/6091/img1025er8.jpg (http://http//img99.imageshack.us/img99/6091/img1025er8.jpg)

http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/1103/img1026db6.jpg (http://http//img242.imageshack.us/img242/1103/img1026db6.jpg)

This is fairly representative of how it looks.

philjohnhb
22-04-07, 04:58 AM
If you have orange bulbs in there it should be fine.

Do you think that would make a difference?

philjohnhb
23-04-07, 04:40 AM
http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/7810/img1027kl9.jpg (http://imageshack.us/?x=my6&myref=http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/private.php?do=showpm&pmid=128475)

Bought this on Evil Bay some months ago. The car didn't come with any hood cover so I went looking for one of the standard 3 piece hard covers and saw this. An original Saab accessory, I quite like the fact that it doesn't protrude as much as the hard cover. It's been sitting in my garage for some time, until last week when I got around to ordering the male poppers. They're now attached to the inside of the boot and to the seatbelt covers. It is a strange piece of kit and doesn't fit perfectly but I rather like the effect.

It came with a large stowage bag made in leatherette that matches the interior - Mmmm another mod on the way!

Murray
30-04-07, 10:21 AM
You have no idea how much i love your car! it is in my eyes the perfect c900 vert. Gorgeous! I would love to have a black one with the carlsson kit - lowered too...it just keeps getting better! very classy, very cool! gorgous!

philb
30-04-07, 11:11 AM
Do you think that would make a difference?

Well, with the clear front lense, an orange bulb produces extremely orange light. I'm sure it will certainly help. I've just acquired a parts car, so I now have a spare set of lenses if I mess up emulating your mod..:D

philjohnhb
02-05-07, 04:02 AM
You have no idea how much i love your car! it is in my eyes the perfect c900 vert. Gorgeous! I would love to have a black one with the carlsson kit - lowered too...it just keeps getting better! very classy, very cool! gorgous!

Blimey - thanks.

philjohnhb
02-05-07, 04:06 AM
Well, with the clear front lense, an orange bulb produces extremely orange light. I'm sure it will certainly help. I've just acquired a parts car, so I now have a spare set of lenses if I mess up emulating your mod..:D

After your last post I thought I'd give it a try and it made next to no difference. As it is 'though I have polished the finish on the lense now that the paint is thoroughly dry and because of the way I painted the lense the light shows through deep orange - good enough for the testers I think.

philjohnhb
02-05-07, 04:10 AM
Clear corners are on their way from Moose purts, will post the inevitable pictures ASAP.

The Mod I mentioned earlier, using the tonneau cover bag is done - a fully folding, flip top (for storage) Centre Armrest with the electric window switches incorporated in the front section of the rest. Pictures taken and will be uploaded tonight.

I couldn't let Woy have all the fun.

philjohnhb
02-05-07, 05:34 PM
Here are some images of the main part of the arm rest under construction
http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/5426/dscn0043pw0.jpg (http://http//img252.imageshack.us/img252/5426/dscn0043pw0.jpg)http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/8940/dscn0044qa6.jpg (http://http//img252.imageshack.us/img252/8940/dscn0044qa6.jpg)
http://img122.imageshack.us/img122/7272/dscn0045kz9.jpg (http://http//img122.imageshack.us/img122/7272/dscn0045kz9.jpg)http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/7060/img1030oc0.jpg (http://http//img252.imageshack.us/img252/7060/img1030oc0.jpg)

http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/3537/img1031xk9.jpg (http://http//img252.imageshack.us/img252/3537/img1031xk9.jpg)

And a picture of the mount in the early stages of construction. Because the floor console is offset and with the tapering sides of the floor console this mount/pedestal has some very awkward angles in it.

philjohnhb
02-05-07, 05:44 PM
http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/2589/img1033fj9.jpg (http://http//img252.imageshack.us/img252/2589/img1033fj9.jpg)

The armrest installed, the window switches are new from a motor factor. All was well until I discovered that the drivers side switch has a one-touch facility and that I need a different switch, one that you can't get in this pattern, so I'm going to have to re-do this bit and use the original switches. The good news is that I've rebuilt the original drivers switch and now the one-touch function works again.
http://img122.imageshack.us/img122/2830/img1034hn5.jpg (http://http//img122.imageshack.us/img122/2830/img1034hn5.jpg)

philjohnhb
02-05-07, 05:49 PM
http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/570/img1035xx5.jpg (http://http//img179.imageshack.us/img179/570/img1035xx5.jpg)

A View of the mount pedestal.


http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/4927/img1036ut1.jpg (http://http//img179.imageshack.us/img179/4927/img1036ut1.jpg)

And a shot with the lid open. I shall be lining the interior with the same grey suede that I shall be re-covering the door and speaker coverings - the material hasn't arrived yet.

misu
02-05-07, 07:10 PM
Very good work!
What about seat belts locks? Are they accesible?

philjohnhb
03-05-07, 03:20 AM
What about seat belts locks? Are they accesible?

Yes they are accesible, obviously they are a little more awkward than without the armrest but not a problem.

philjohnhb
15-05-07, 08:49 AM
I have now carried out the mod to the vacuum advance module and have 'reprofiled' the stop. A nice straightforward job.

I took the car for a blast straight away, before the mod, using high octane petrol I would see boost half-way into the red before the APC backed it off. I now get boost two thirds to three quartes of the way into the red and the car feels smooth all the way. That is until the APC backs the boost off. The back off is quite sudden (at least the APC is doing it's job) but boost takes a little time to restore.

The FMIC pipework still hasn't arrived yet (expected in 3 days), when this is all connected I expect the boost to be sustained better - is this right?

The APC is modded to 900.aero spec, I have a feeling that what I need to do now is incorporate Saab-Daniel's 'latest APC mod' to provide quicker boost restoration post knock back off - comments Daniel?

Saab-Daniel
15-05-07, 09:32 AM
Hi Phil.
Definetly worth looking into, don't know why you keep getting increase in boost just because you've altered the ignition, this shouldn't be the case... I think you might have set your F-settings too high, so as you are not reaching the preset level. What resistor and Pot do you have in the APC-box?
And yes, the mod will give you extremely fast max-boost again after knock...
Daniel.

philjohnhb
15-05-07, 10:07 AM
Hi Phil.
Definetly worth looking into, don't know why you keep getting increase in boost just because you've altered the ignition, this shouldn't be the case... I think you might have set your F-settings too high, so as you are not reaching the preset level. What resistor and Pot do you have in the APC-box?
And yes, the mod will give you extremely fast max-boost again after knock...
Daniel.

Thanks for answering. I can't remember what resistor, I just did the first stage 900.aero mod. I figured that having done the ignition mod I should get more boost before the APC backs off because of knock - that means, as you suggest, that my F settings are probably too high I guess. I'll give it a tweak down later.

With the F set lower should my boost climb and hold reasonably steady?

I bought the bits for your mod and promptly lost them.

Saab-Daniel
15-05-07, 10:21 AM
The 900aero-mod will give you boost settings from 0.9bar to 1.5. the 0.9 bar will be at the lowest F-setting possible. If you left the F-setting standard, you are pushing over 1 bar. So, you'll get knock, apc will pull back boost. Then try to go back to your set F-setting (which is too high for the fuel you are putting in, hence knock), pull boost, and so it goes on.
So start by turning down the F-pot all the way, then move up from there.
Then do the latest mod.
You can fit an LED to one of the pins on the APC-system, just can't remeber which atm, it will flicker when reaching the set F-setting. You can find the pin in "the latest mod"-thread.
Also, go get the resistors for the mod, and stick them in the ashtray, then you know where it is :D
Daniel.

Murray
15-05-07, 10:24 AM
Is the boost shutting off sudenly not the limiter? the small adjustable vacuum switch under the dash? I had to turn that up a little on whitey to stop the boost limiter cutting things out!

You might want to check with some of the more experienced people first though as once i made that change i got a problem with the apc solenoid clacking - that was the only thing i could discover that caused it (through process of elimination)

philjohnhb
15-05-07, 12:48 PM
Is the boost shutting off sudenly not the limiter? the small adjustable vacuum switch under the dash? I had to turn that up a little on whitey to stop the boost limiter cutting things out!

You might want to check with some of the more experienced people first though as once i made that change i got a problem with the apc solenoid clacking - that was the only thing i could discover that caused it (through process of elimination)

Thanks Murray, can't say I know what you're talking about - any further info on this would be appreciated.

philjohnhb
15-05-07, 12:53 PM
The 900aero-mod will give you boost settings from 0.9bar to 1.5. the 0.9 bar will be at the lowest F-setting possible. If you left the F-setting standard, you are pushing over 1 bar. So, you'll get knock, apc will pull back boost. Then try to go back to your set F-setting (which is too high for the fuel you are putting in, hence knock), pull boost, and so it goes on.
So start by turning down the F-pot all the way, then move up from there.
Then do the latest mod.
You can fit an LED to one of the pins on the APC-system, just can't remeber which atm, it will flicker when reaching the set F-setting. You can find the pin in "the latest mod"-thread.
Also, go get the resistors for the mod, and stick them in the ashtray, then you know where it is :D
Daniel.

Is that the knock LED mod? If that's what you mean then that's the next thing on my list - pin 19.

Just been for a drive again and it was boosting consistently 2 thirds into the red without backing off. Coincidental with fitting this mod I filled up with Shell V-Max or whatever it is - could be this v high octane petrol has allowed the boost to climb higher before the APC detected knock?

Saab-Daniel
16-05-07, 03:12 AM
No, not really. You should definetly do the pin-19 mod, you'll know when the car knocks.
Also, you can connect a LED to pin-24, this will flicker when you hit the preset F-setting.
Daniel.

philjohnhb
16-05-07, 03:49 AM
No, not really. You should definetly do the pin-19 mod, you'll know when the car knocks.
Also, you can connect a LED to pin-24, this will flicker when you hit the preset F-setting.
Daniel.

OK, so do you use this when setting the F pot or when driving?

Saab-Daniel
16-05-07, 04:00 AM
Specifically when adjusting, so you know if you hit the setting you've told the APC...
Daniel.

TheRedBaron
16-05-07, 12:20 PM
FWIW - I found that adjusting the APC/swapping resistors could only go so far - it upped the boost a little bit, but to get the sort of numbers that 900aero.com says you should get with their resistor mods, I found that the wastegate needed to be adjusted as well to match suit. Daniel - have you found this as well, or is my car odd?

IronJoe
16-05-07, 12:23 PM
rule of thumb for APC is base boost = 1/2 desired full boost.

although the other aspects of your car must be in good shape in order to produce that much.

TheRedBaron
16-05-07, 12:46 PM
rule of thumb for APC is base boost = 1/2 desired full boost.

although the other aspects of your car must be in good shape in order to produce that much.But my thinking was that doing the apc mod alone will not determine your final full boost (at least on my car) - raising the base boost will raise the full boost as well. Maybe best to decide what you want for full boost, set the wastegate, and then set the full boost using only the APC? Otherwise it'll just be a lot of back and forth.

And my car is a shining example of a c900 in fine mechanical shape! :cheesy:

philjohnhb
16-05-07, 12:50 PM
I haven't touched the wastegate yet but my car is giving solid boost 2 thirds into the red. Only when I stamp on the accelerator from no boost does the APC back the boost off - I'm sure it's the APC not the fuel cutoff.

One odd thing - I only get full boost in 3rd 4th and 5th gears - I don't bother in first but in second it will boost to just in the red with the engine sounding much more strained. Thoughts anyone?

IronJoe
16-05-07, 12:57 PM
not enough load on the motor to create that much boost? I rarely stomp it in 2nd because I'd like to keep my tires in decent condition, but I recall having the same problem as you.

philjohnhb
16-05-07, 01:00 PM
Well I suppose that's comforting to know that I'm not the only one. I had wondered if you might compound the problem by having a lower compression head on the car or at least end up with more sluggish off-boost performance?

Thanks for the answer in the other thread.

IronJoe
16-05-07, 01:28 PM
Probably! I've been really easy on it, but from what I can tell the revs are slower from 2k to 3k, and faster from 4k to 5k. All the mods that increase my top-end while losing my low-end (big turbo, cams, etc) are also saving my transmission. That 270wtq or so lasts for over 1k revs, which will eventually obliterate my current box.

I'm going to try to make this one last through 2007. 2008 will be the year of the uberbox.

philb
16-05-07, 02:04 PM
philjohnhb: I did the 900 aero mod, in a half assed way, I haven't gotten around to replacing the f-pot yet, so its just the standard one, maxed at around 500 ohms. I find I only get full boost in 4th and 5th, annoyingly, not in 3rd.
I thought we were supposed to take it easy in 2nd, as stomping on it in 2nd was supposed to be the ultimate way to kill the box?
I feed in the throttle in second, maybe building up to a few psi of boost.
The tyres would be the least of my worries..

philjohnhb
16-05-07, 02:11 PM
Believe me chaps I don't usually try anything in second either, I just gave it a go to see how it was - honest guv. http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/images/icons/icon6.gif In fact neither this nor may last vert felt particularly nice shoving it in second.

philjohnhb
17-05-07, 02:20 PM
Well, something's working right - I have just blown or blown off the boost gauge vacuum hose. Huge hiss from behind the kneeboard so that's going to have to come off this weekend, I hate that job. And before anyone says it's easy - with all the electrical thingys I have in the centre console - NO IT ISN'T

IronJoe
17-05-07, 02:25 PM
Oh please.


That's easy.















:cheesy:

philjohnhb
17-05-07, 04:45 PM
Oh please.


That's easy.
















:cheesy:


Go suck on a toffee (EEEE By Gum cloth cap in the posthttp://www.saabcentral.com/forums/images/icons/icon6.gif)

TheRedBaron
17-05-07, 04:47 PM
Where is your boost gauge - can't find it in any pictures? Center console??

Either way, just give some 5th grader 5 bucks to wiggle in there and do it! No dash removal necessary! Easy!

IronJoe
17-05-07, 04:57 PM
Either way, just give some 5th grader 5 bucks to wiggle in there and do it!

what.



speedparts

philjohnhb
23-05-07, 08:14 AM
After a lot of beard stroking, late nights worrying, much consultation and a quick look at my horoscope I have decided that: PHIL ISN'T VERY SERIOUS, MIGHT VERY WELL BE A JOKE AND QUITE LIKES READING ABOUT NON-PERFORMANCE REBUILDS - ENOUGH SAID.

TheRedBaron
23-05-07, 09:19 AM
After a lot of beard stroking, late nights worrying, much consultation and a quick look at my horoscope I have decided that: PHIL ISN'T VERY SERIOUS, MIGHT VERY WELL BE A JOKE AND QUITE LIKES READING ABOUT NON-PERFORMANCE REBUILDS - ENOUGH SAID. Phil has a best woodgrain on the net :lol:

Haha Joe, that does sound a little odd reading it now...

IronJoe
23-05-07, 10:39 AM
oh man... this thread has so much good signature material here, it's hard to choose! :cheesy:

philjohnhb
23-05-07, 10:51 AM
oh man... this thread has so much good signature material here, it's hard to choose! :cheesy:

What a fine idea.

philb
23-05-07, 10:59 AM
I fixed ( REBUILT ) my windscreen washers, fitted hi-flow silicone tubing, and a garrett ball bearing pump. No ordinary windscreen washers for Phil. They are now THE BEST ON THE NET.

TheRedBaron
23-05-07, 11:05 AM
I fixed ( REBUILT ) my windscreen washers, fitted hi-flow silicone tubing, and a garrett ball bearing pump. No ordinary windscreen washers for Phil. They are now THE BEST ON THE NET.No you are wrong, I order hi-performance, low drag washer nozzles, no joke, I am has serious project.

philjohnhb
23-05-07, 11:07 AM
I knew all I had to do was mention it once and the flood gates would open.

IronJoe
23-05-07, 11:23 AM
No you are wrong, I order hi-performance, low drag washer nozzles, no joke, I am has serious project.

no red bran you are wrong. Phil has spent the money on best stuffs. His stainless steel washer lines are BEST ON THE NET. low drag nozzles is waste of time. Phil is serious.

philb
23-05-07, 11:25 AM
I stuck with the standard nozzles, but I ported them with a hacksaw. Make no mistake, they are serious. The pump chucks out 3 gallons a second, and this has been proven on the dyno.

philjohnhb
23-05-07, 11:37 AM
Woa! elkparts

TheRedBaron
23-05-07, 11:41 AM
No you are both wrong, make no mistake. I've done nozzle upgrades to my Nissan 300zx twin turbo, one of the things that does not make a difference is the port the nozzle, the ports are about the same as Sabb port, performance shops for nissan dyno tested the ported nozzle vs stock and the difference was insignificant, is no joke. My hi-performance nozzles are the smooth and faster already, so I just give it a light pass with dremel tool and thats it. Plus am only shooting for 1 gallon/second, smooth and reliable washing baby, nuff said.




BTW...ROFL :lol:

philb
23-05-07, 12:11 PM
The horse, it is dead. I think we have killed it!

TheRedBaron
23-05-07, 12:14 PM
The horse, it is dead. I think we have killed it!Hah, it'll be funny again tomorrow, though :lol:

philjohnhb
03-06-07, 04:11 PM
The replacement door card material arrived a couple of days ago. I think the colour is ideal. The material is a fake suede rather like alcantara, it has a plasticised backing and is sufficiently pliant to get round corners without leaving folds.
http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/5350/img1042hg7.jpg (http://http//img295.imageshack.us/img295/5350/img1042hg7.jpg)

Here's the original, faded and grotty.

http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/6751/img1045gp4.jpg (http://http//img295.imageshack.us/img295/6751/img1045gp4.jpg)
And here's the recovered item, I also painted the speaker gauze metallic grey.

http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/2900/img1070wn1.jpg (http://http//img295.imageshack.us/img295/2900/img1070wn1.jpg)
Door cards got the same treatment - I had earlier covered the door handles with the same material I made the centre armrest out of.
http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/7587/img1072kh7.jpg (http://http//img295.imageshack.us/img295/7587/img1072kh7.jpg)

philjohnhb
03-06-07, 04:18 PM
The clear corners have now arrived, pictures to follow soon.

ejenner
03-06-07, 04:23 PM
will you sell me your car when you're finished? I really like all the things you're doing to it and it was a nice car to begin with!

nashvegas
03-06-07, 10:43 PM
Hey there - I've been trying to find some alcantara / fake suede that's a color match for grey interior as well.

Can you please tell us where you purchased that material and the manufacturer/color? I'd like to pick some up.

I've searched the fake suedes but haven't found anything good yet (either they're too "shiny/sheeny" or the color's wrong. What you've got looks great. congrats.

Thanks
Ben

philjohnhb
04-06-07, 03:14 AM
Hey there - I've been trying to find some alcantara / fake suede that's a color match for grey interior as well.

Can you please tell us where you purchased that material and the manufacturer/color? I'd like to pick some up.

I've searched the fake suedes but haven't found anything good yet (either they're too "shiny/sheeny" or the color's wrong. What you've got looks great. congrats.

Thanks
Ben

My other half is an interior designer and she supplied the material. I'll ask her about supplying to the US. The minimum material size supplied is 1.5 x 1.0 metre, enough to do the car with some left over. I have also lined the armrest cubby and the centre console cubby with the same material.
http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/13/img1071bv8.jpg (http://http//img295.imageshack.us/img295/13/img1071bv8.jpg)

The material isn't a perfect match but a reasonable contrast I think.

philjohnhb
07-06-07, 01:34 PM
http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/213/djscsmphotos127jp8.jpg (http://http//img511.imageshack.us/img511/213/djscsmphotos127jp8.jpg)

Finally got around to doing some shots with the clear corners fitted. I have used orange bulbs rather than silver effect so still have the 'fried egg' effect which, at the moment, I quite like. No doubt someone will shout 'GET RID OF THE ORANGE'.

http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/331/djscsmphotos128rz5.jpg (http://http//img524.imageshack.us/img524/331/djscsmphotos128rz5.jpg)

Side shot shows red rears and clear fronts off well, glad I did the rears.

legolas8888
07-06-07, 01:37 PM
boootifulll:D
http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/213/djscsmphotos127jp8.jpg (http://%5Bimg%5Dhttp//img511.imageshack.us/img511/213/djscsmphotos127jp8.jpg%5B/img%5D)

Finally got around to doing some shots with the clear corners fitted. I have used orange bulbs rather than silver effect so still have the 'fried egg' effect which, at the moment, I quite like. No doubt someone will shout 'GET RID OF THE ORANGE'.

http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/331/djscsmphotos128rz5.jpg (http://%5Bimg%5Dhttp//img524.imageshack.us/img524/331/djscsmphotos128rz5.jpg%5B/img%5D)

Side shot shows red rears and clear fronts off well, glad I did the rears.

philjohnhb
07-06-07, 01:37 PM
http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/3032/djscsmphotos126eq6.jpg (http://http//img524.imageshack.us/img524/3032/djscsmphotos126eq6.jpg)

More gratuitious shots of the clear corners.

http://img107.imageshack.us/img107/9756/djscsmphotos129jh5.jpg (http://http//img107.imageshack.us/img107/9756/djscsmphotos129jh5.jpg)

http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/6359/djscsmphotos130ca3.jpg (http://http//img524.imageshack.us/img524/6359/djscsmphotos130ca3.jpg)

The shiney bonnet badge is a bit of a fortunate mistake. Power hosing the car last week and half of the badge enamel flaked off so I picked off all the rest and polished the underlying embossed badge. Suits the car I think.

IronJoe
07-06-07, 01:42 PM
Looks pretty good but you should get rid of the orange! :lol:


Seriously tho, I use these (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SYLVANIA-SILVERSTAR-1157-TURN-SIGNAL-BULBS-SILVER-STAR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33717QQihZ006QQite mZ160124769944QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW)

They are made to look silver (with a hint of blue) but light up orange. No orange here! (http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album74/P5060077.sized.jpg)

philjohnhb
07-06-07, 01:46 PM
I think it's different for your car, you have black, grey and chrome/silver. All I have is black and chrome - have a go at photoshop for me will you?


P.S. Did he really say 'Royal UK' etc, I must get back and have another look. I often wonder WHAT PLANET? etc etc!!

IronJoe
07-06-07, 01:52 PM
Phil, you are free to say anything you want when you live in best country in the world USA.




EDIT:

Using a painted silver bulb:
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album49/allclear.jpg

Using a bluish "silverstar" bulb:
http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album49/hintofblue.jpg

philjohnhb
07-06-07, 01:59 PM
Phil, you are free to say anything you want when you live in best country in the world USA.

God Bless ya'all. There is a popular myth in the UK that you lot don't do Irony - happily you frequently prove that wrong.

I'd like to think that the author of the current hot project thread is the arch exponent of Irony - sadly the truth is, I fear, rather wide of that particular mark.


PHOTOSHOP

..........couldn't help yourself could you. If you'd ignored my request I would have been none the wiser. I really like the silver job - blast!

KurBads
07-06-07, 03:32 PM
Joe & Phill, where did you get those neon srt IC`s and hat did they cost? Are they any better or cheaper than those chinese ICs that people often install?

Thank`s!

IronJoe
07-06-07, 03:44 PM
Kurbads, I bought mine online, and I sent one to phil. They are cheaper than an ebay IC and are a spot-on fit the airflow front end. Like it's made for the car.

The SRT-4 came with 240bhp, and guys tune them to over 300hp before needing to change the IC. There's something to be said for factory performance parts...

Murray
07-06-07, 04:01 PM
http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/213/djscsmphotos127jp8.jpg (http://http//img511.imageshack.us/img511/213/djscsmphotos127jp8.jpg)

Finally got around to doing some shots with the clear corners fitted. I have used orange bulbs rather than silver effect so still have the 'fried egg' effect which, at the moment, I quite like. No doubt someone will shout 'GET RID OF THE ORANGE'.

http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/331/djscsmphotos128rz5.jpg (http://http//img524.imageshack.us/img524/331/djscsmphotos128rz5.jpg)

Side shot shows red rears and clear fronts off well, glad I did the rears.

Phill, i would just like to say..........














Drooooooooooooooooooooooooooooolll

I
Love
Your
Car!
:o :cheesy: ;)

KurBads
07-06-07, 04:11 PM
Kurbads, I bought mine online, and I sent one to phil. They are cheaper than an ebay IC and are a spot-on fit the airflow front end. Like it's made for the car.

The SRT-4 came with 240bhp, and guys tune them to over 300hp before needing to change the IC. There's something to be said for factory performance parts...

could you suggest me some online places, I did google search but got a lmost nothing

did you have to cut anything from the front, tow ring, anything else?

thank`s in advance!

philjohnhb
07-06-07, 04:12 PM
Thanks Murray and thanks Iron Joe for the new avatar.

Kurbads - as Iron Joe says, ideal for our front ends. Nicely made as well.

Yes you do have to cut both tow eyes off, other than that nothing needs modding.

Find one on Evil Bay US I suppose or maybe there are Chrysler Neon sites a little like this.

IronJoe
07-06-07, 04:32 PM
http://www.srtforums.com/

I've purchased three SRT-4 ICs for people from this site. Haven't paid more than $70 or so each time.

K-900
09-06-07, 04:06 PM
Phil, your vert is awsome! I've missed these forums the past few months, seems I've missed a lot. Absolutely no doubt about getting another c900. But for now I'm watching the solicitors take money out of my bank for a house purchase!

I will be back in a 900 in a couple more months.

Am to be best 900 comeback on net, NO JOKE!

:lol:

Kenny.

philjohnhb
25-06-07, 04:25 AM
Yesterday I managed to find the time in my wife's busy schedule!!!! to plumb in my FMIC (the one that has been bolted to the car doing nothing for months). I used one of those i/c kits with 2.5 inch pipework from evil bay. I had attempted to fit it a few weeks ago but hadn't reckoned on needing a reducer.

I had a SAMCO reducing elbow delivered last week so I took the plunge. On the face of it fitting the pipework looks easy but when it came to actually getting the complex angles right and cutting metal it was more of a drawn out process than I had imagined. So, 3 hours later I had it done, took it out for a drive, taking it easy at first. All was well so gave it some welly, of course the inevitable happened, I blew a hose off and had to limp the car home. Another hour later retightening and realigning everything, another test drive and all is well.

It went well before, in fact it goes like stink but now the boost is much stronger and, of course, there is no noticeable tail-off due to heat sink.

So now I have the space to move the battery, fit a 3" downpipe .......blah blah blah.

philjohnhb
25-06-07, 09:40 AM
I still need to readjust the fuel shut off up a bit as the car does the dreaded death shut off at about 17/18 PSI boost. I have also got to replace the heater valve as it has started to leak a little so I'll do both jobs at the same time. Yet another dive behind that b"*^!y knee bolster!

philjohnhb
27-06-07, 03:49 AM
I am having some trouble with the FMIC pipework. No matter how tight I do the clips/fasteners, under boost one or other of the connections keeps blowing off. Has anyone got any tips on how to keep these blessed things connected? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

ejenner
27-06-07, 04:10 AM
It's fairly obvious stuff really. I'm having similar problems with the 99 but working it out.

In no particular order:

1. Snug fitting hoses (correct diameter, well seated)
2. a lip/flared collar/beed is required at the end of the tube that the hose fits over
3. Some thin sticky liquid adheisive to help stop the hose sliding off but not intended to glue it on - just to aid the grip
4. T-clamps instead of normal jubilee clips
5. The clamp should clamp behind the lip on the tube and in front of the end of the hose
6. Always clamp the flexible hose to something solid. don't join flexible hoses to flexiable hoses - works ok at low boost levels but won't hold above standard pressures
7. keep the boost pressures at sensible levels. At a certian point extra boost pressure provides no extra performance and generates excess heat

Murray
27-06-07, 04:17 AM
I suffered from this on whitey, i found that taking out the hose, cleaning the end with washing up liquid (gets sticky on rubber when dry and removes oil) and then double jubilee clipping it (2 clips done up nice and tight) did the job! it never fell off again!


I also made sure it was pused on quite far so there was plenty of space to grip with the jubilees!

Albert Trout
27-06-07, 04:27 AM
It doesn't look as good but I use a much longer bit of silicone than required and clip it about an inch away from the end of the pipe. My pipes are a total mish mash of e-bay pipe, 9000 and originals, with no lips/flares on the pipes held on with B&Q jubilee clips and I haven't had a pipe blow since I put the new IC on. I also use a ratchet and a 7mm socket to tighten the clips. Anything else doesn't get them tight enough.

ejenner
27-06-07, 05:33 AM
Murray - good call with the sticky, dried-out washing up liquid. That's the sort of thing I had in mind but couldn't think of the correct product when I was posting. Wonder if it would work on silicone hoses? Might not penetrate in the same way.

philb
27-06-07, 06:10 AM
The jubilee clip should be barely over the lip on the connector.

philjohnhb
27-06-07, 06:21 AM
Thanks chaps, lots of sound advice. None of my pipes have beads/lips but they are rather shiney so I think keying the surface with a bit of wet or dry might help too?

I really want this sorted as having the car go PSSST and losing power when overtaking is rather embarassing!

philjohnhb
27-06-07, 06:24 AM
The jubilee clip should be barely over the lip on the connector.

I checked that but in the initial installation I made sure that I cut all the pipes so that they would meet inside the silicone joiners.

philb
27-06-07, 06:47 AM
I've managed to make a lip on copper pipe before with just the orange pliers in the toolkit. I'm sure with more thought and more proper tools you can do that on the fmic piping. I think it'll be tough to keep it all together otherwise.

Albert Trout
27-06-07, 06:56 AM
Almost forgot. You have to retighten the clips a couple of times. No matter how hard you tighten them first up, the silicone always seems to compress a little bit and when you go back after a day or two you'll find you can give then another wee tweak.

ejenner
27-06-07, 07:04 AM
I was wondering if it would be possible to buy beading in strip form. Cut it to size, wrap it around the tube and tack it onto the end of the pipe with a bit of weld? I'd imagine half-round steel or aluminum lengths are available off the shelf?

Like the tip on retightening..!

Also - has anyone seen Samco are offering special, purpose-built intake tubing which is specially constructed to be more resiliant when used on intake systems? This is different to their normal tubing. I wonder if it would grip better?

philjohnhb
27-06-07, 08:00 AM
Almost forgot. You have to retighten the clips a couple of times. No matter how hard you tighten them first up, the silicone always seems to compress a little bit and when you go back after a day or two you'll find you can give then another wee tweak.

This makes sense. I think i'll take it all off, key the surfaces, wash in detergent and double clamp where appropriate.

Our engineers at work use something colloquially called 'speed tape' - metal tape with a very strong adhesive. I shall use some of this stuff to overlap the silicone and the tubing and then apply the clips. We'll see.

IronJoe
27-06-07, 09:58 AM
I've gotta add my two cents here, I've blown off many a coupler myself.

One thing I've noticed about the T-bolt clamps, a lot of times if you over tighten them (which we always do) the "tongue" that is supposed to slide underneath sometimes stops sliding, and instead binds up creating a bend. This creates a leak.

The best way I've found to deal with this is, take the clamp off and straighten the "tongue" then take a dab of motor oil and cover the inside of the metal with it. That way, as you tighten, the tongue slides underneath the overlapping metal as it should.

Also, scuffing the edges of your pipes with a file/sandpaper (esp if they're painted) helps a lot.

philjohnhb
27-06-07, 06:16 PM
Well I've taken the pipes on the hot side apart again, sanded the parts of the pipes that contact the hoses and applied this speed tape stuff. I have applied the clamps as hard as I can (without putting any wrinkles in the rubber) and so far (I have done a reasonable test drive applying BOOST whenever I could) no problems. In fact the boost seems much stronger so there must have been leaks all along. I suppose I ought to do the same for the cold side now.

Breakin5speeds
29-06-07, 08:23 PM
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c183/SwedenLo/My%20Car/JBweldpipe.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c183/SwedenLo/My%20Car/clamp.jpg


With these clamps you do no experience the sliding tongue dilemma... the tongue doesn't slide, it is the outside that moves, they're called "Constant Torque" clamps and you can buy them at most any large truck dealership or supply.....these combined with the JB Weld lips and I am able to push 25 psi with no blow offs yet... has been about 3 months

philjohnhb
02-07-07, 03:28 AM
Those clips look ideal, I'll be on the hunt.


JB weld? what is that? - never heard of it.

unkleG'sif
02-07-07, 04:52 AM
its like Chemical Metal..... 2 part, paste and hardener, that you mix and goes super hard as it goes off


G

philjohnhb
02-07-07, 05:44 AM
its like Chemical Metal..... 2 part, paste and hardener, that you mix and goes super hard as it goes off


G

Thanks for that, looks like a simple way of getting a lip on my slippery FMIC pipework.

saabismi
04-07-07, 08:26 AM
Im planning to do a walnut veneer facia too...only we dont have the suplies needed to do that in Estonia:x

But that is the most coolest C900 vert i have ever seen:o

philjohnhb
06-07-07, 05:08 AM
Try e*bay UK for walnut veneer, that's where I got mine from.


Thanks for the comment - I think Iron Joe might have something to say about that 'though!

Albert Trout
06-07-07, 05:10 AM
How you getting on with your troublesome charge pipes Phil?

philjohnhb
06-07-07, 05:16 AM
I seem to have cracked it by taking almost all of the advice given by other members. I must admit though that I haven't been treading on it since I last put it all together, I don't fancy grovelling around under the car by the side of the road in this current spell of crap weather. I have used boost to about half way through the red with no problems so far. If it's dry this weekend (some hope) I'll do some max boost runs and see if it all holds! If it doesn't i'll be going down the JB WELD route to create some olives on the pipe ends.

IronJoe
06-07-07, 09:38 AM
Thanks for the comment - I think Iron Joe might have something to say about that 'though!

Heh, I'll take 'second most coolest' for 'faster' :cheesy:

philjohnhb
06-07-07, 12:50 PM
Heh, I'll take 'second most coolest' for 'faster' :cheesy:

We have a deal.

philjohnhb
09-07-07, 03:50 AM
I have stolen Palmer's idea for mesh behind the air intake.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a165/palmer80/P7010194.jpg

Actually, I've also stolen his picture. It's such a nice little detail, you only see it standing over it which is probably why I love it. It also looks even sharper with black paintwork!

philjohnhb
09-07-07, 03:57 AM
If it's dry this weekend (some hope) I'll do some max boost runs and see if it all holds! If it doesn't i'll be going down the JB WELD route to create some olives on the pipe ends.

So I did and guess what? Circa 18 psi - Pssssst. Limped home, opened the lid expecting to find the hot side blown open again and - Lo, the hot side is intact and this time I've blown a joint on the cold side. I re-did all of the cold side joints and this time no blows. At least I've been chasing the problem in the right direction.

Given some clear car fettling time 'though, I will JB all of the joints just to be on the safe side.

ejenner
09-07-07, 04:05 AM
wouldn't have expected that to happen! Surely there's no pressure on the intake side of the compressor? In fact, vacuum is more likely. My cold side intake system incorporated quite a bit of gaffer tape at one point and it held together fine! I spose there would be a bit of pressure in there after the throttle slaps shut and the re-circ system dumps the boost back over to the cold side.

philjohnhb
09-07-07, 04:08 AM
Sorry, misleading post - I meant the cold side of the I/C.

ejenner
09-07-07, 04:24 AM
oh - got ya...

philjohnhb
17-07-07, 01:19 PM
Not really part of the project but I have just taken the old girl for her first MOT test in my ownership - always a worrying time - and she passed first time with no advisories. Hurrah! You could probably hear the sigh of relief on the other side of the atlantic.

I had just fitted Mintex fast road pads on the rear and what with the Pagids already on the front the tester commented on how good the brakes were! I'll not be bothering with the 9000 mod then.

philjohnhb
17-07-07, 01:54 PM
http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/4627/img1149om1.jpg (http://http//img530.imageshack.us/img530/4627/img1149om1.jpg)

I thought it was time I did some pics of my own mod rather than just use palmer's.

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/7681/img1150cm1.jpg (http://http//img403.imageshack.us/img403/7681/img1150cm1.jpg)
Now it could just be wishful thinking but the airflow into the car seems to have been improved by this!?

philjohnhb
17-07-07, 02:01 PM
http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/750/img1151xn2.jpg (http://http//img403.imageshack.us/img403/750/img1151xn2.jpg)

I changed my antenna the other day. I didn't like the look of the electric antenna when it was up and, more importantly, when driving with the roof down but the windows up there was a very noticeable wind induced howl from the antenna from 50 to 80 mph. So with a little judicious filing this adjustable antenna has gone in. Sad to**%r that I am, I have adjusted the rake to match that of the windscreen - oh and no howling with the roof down either.

http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/5886/img1152jo3.jpg (http://http//img514.imageshack.us/img514/5886/img1152jo3.jpg)

the capitan
18-07-07, 04:28 PM
I WANT YOUR CAR......

regnisfon20
18-07-07, 06:58 PM
Wow ok I feel like a moron now.. I never realized this project area existed ;oops:

but now I do.. and I must say that your car is one of the most amazing things I have seen! I am just glad I am at school.. I don't' have to worry about cleaning up the drool that way! haha

Palmer1980
18-07-07, 11:53 PM
http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/4627/img1149om1.jpg (http://%5Bimg%5Dhttp//img530.imageshack.us/img530/4627/img1149om1.jpg%5B/img%5D)

I thought it was time I did some pics of my own mod rather than just use palmer's.

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/7681/img1150cm1.jpg (http://%5Bimg%5Dhttp//img403.imageshack.us/img403/7681/img1150cm1.jpg%5B/img%5D)
Now it could just be wishful thinking but the airflow into the car seems to have been improved by this!?



You must be shirtless for the full effect.




Your car amazes me.


:cheesy:

philjohnhb
19-07-07, 05:34 AM
You must be shirtless for the full effect.




Your car amazes me.


:cheesy:

Realising I couldn't carry off the look I made sure my mug wasn't in the shot. Top mod by the way.

saabismi
20-07-07, 05:59 PM
I Just love your vert...Super aeros would fit just nicely:) oh and..was it hard building taht armrest?:roll:

philjohnhb
24-07-07, 05:14 PM
It already has 16" Aero wheels!

The armrest was not too difficult to make. The hardest part was designing and making the mounting pedestal because the centre console is offset and a lot of the angles are odd.

IronJoe
24-07-07, 05:23 PM
It already has 16" Aero wheels!

C'mon phil you should know this by now...

16" aeros != Super Aeros

philjohnhb
25-07-07, 03:02 AM
C'mon phil you should know this by now...

16" aeros != Super Aeros

Back to Saab school then! Actually, I thought super aero's were the easy to find wheels where the three spokes curved back to the rim and that the ones on my car with flat spokes and with polished rims were Carlsson Aero's.

philb
25-07-07, 06:12 AM
You are correct about the classification of the wheels. Easy to find - I dunno. About equal amounts of super and carlsson aeros come up, I should know, I've been combing uksaabs and ebay for them for about a year :)
You can't buy them in Ireland. Nobody in Ireland seems to have bought anything more than a base model 9000, and no-one is importing a 9000 aero or carlsson now.
Supply and demand means they are always silly money (200-400 pounds), plus more silly money (70-80 pounds ) to ship them to Ireland.
I decided a while ago that I'd settle for either style of wheel, needing a refurb or not, so long as they were willing to ship them, and the price was "reasonable". Have managed to get a deal on some super aeros, finally. Hopefully will have them before the weekend.

philjohnhb
25-07-07, 06:26 AM
You are correct about the classification of the wheels. Easy to find - I dunno. About equal amounts of super and carlsson aeros come up, I should know, I've been combing uksaabs and ebay for them for about a year :)
You can't buy them in Ireland. Nobody in Ireland seems to have bought anything more than a base model 9000, and no-one is importing a 9000 aero or carlsson now.
Supply and demand means they are always silly money (200-400 pounds), plus more silly money (70-80 pounds ) to ship them to Ireland.
I decided a while ago that I'd settle for either style of wheel, needing a refurb or not, so long as they were willing to ship them, and the price was "reasonable". Have managed to get a deal on some super aeros, finally. Hopefully will have them before the weekend.

Well at least I am right about something! Wheels coming soon eh? - pictures of your steed required upon fitting!

philjohnhb
06-08-07, 04:37 PM
http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/7128/img1276ao9.jpg (http://http//img407.imageshack.us/img407/7128/img1276ao9.jpg)

Just to keep Iron Joe happy I have purchased, at great personal expense and inconvienience, these silver effect indicator bulbs for the clear front indicators. Now the car looks just like I J's photoshop. see earlier in the thread.

philjohnhb
07-08-07, 03:08 AM
Now fitted I must say these silver effect bulbs are nowhere near as bright as standard bulbs. It's a shame that LED clusters aren't legal in this country (or at least they don't appear to be) as they would probably provide a sensible solution.

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/album49/allclear.jpg