Lets change the spark plugs!

[Chris 9-5]

What do we need?

1 x Torque wrench
1 x Sparkplug socket
1 x Ratchet & extention
1 x Dielectric Grease
4 x Spark plugs
1 x Feeler Gauge (to check spark plug gap)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v159/cbullock/dd93d0d8.jpg

Which plugs?

All 4 cyl cars can use:

NGK BCPR7ES-11 Saab Part No 9112541 (these are pregapped to 1.1mm)
NGK BCPR6ES-11 Saab Part No 9117565 (these are pregapped to 1.1mm)

Aeros are specified to run platinum plugs

NGK PFR6H-10 Saab Part No 9188681 - But the above plugs work fine and are far cheaper!

What Electrode Gap?

LPT cars 1.1mm spark plug gap - Aero's 1.0mm gap

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v159/cbullock/5d23e866.jpg

What tightening torque for the plugs?

2.0 and 2.3 engine 28Nm = 21 lbf ft

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v159/cbullock/80c28824.jpg

[Chris 9-5]

The process:

Make sure the engine is COLD!

Remove the 4 bolts holding the DI in place:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v159/cbullock/86be5b6e.jpg

Release the electrical connection at the RH end of the DI, under the throttle pipe:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v159/cbullock/96cdb717.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v159/cbullock/47e0d069.jpg

Lift up and remove the DI, place out of the way UPRIGHT:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v159/cbullock/61e82801.jpg

Remove spark plugs ( 10mm spark plug socket)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v159/cbullock/ac0e9712.jpg

[Chris 9-5]

Check the correct gap on the new plugs: (1.0mm Aero - 1.1mm LPT's)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v159/cbullock/5d23e866.jpg

Put plugs in and tighten to the required torque (28Nm)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v159/cbullock/18d35430.jpg

Smear some dielectric grease over the ends of the DI, where they fit over the plugs and replace the DI:

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/Dielectric-grease.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v159/cbullock/86be5b6e.jpg

Refit the electrical connection for the DI.

Ensure no tools left in the engine bay.

Job's a goodun ;)

[cfobare79]

How is this done on the V6 model? I would imagin the same way but need to know for sure before I dive in this weekend.

[Chris 9-5]

Same idea, same gap and tightening torque, but you have three under each DI cassette and you will need these plugs:

http://www.partsforsaabs.com/product_info.php?cPath=34_41_50&products_id=80

[timmehhhhhh]

Didn't notice you posted this...thanks Chris :cheesy:

[DrBoost]

Hej !

Just read the thread, and must make some comments, se below.

B204E/L/R:BCPR7ES-11, gap:1.00-1.10 mm
B234E/L/R:BCPR7ES-11, gap:1.00-1.10 mm

B205E:BCPR6ES-11, gap: 1.00-1.10 mm
B205E:M/01-> with Saab tuningkit:PFR6H-10, gap:0.90-1.00 mm
B205BioPower:BCPR7ES-11, gap:1.00-1.10 mm

B235E:BCPR6ES-11, gap: 1.00-1.10 mm
B235L:PFR6H-10, gap: 0.90-1.00 mm
B235R:PFR6H-10 or possibly PFR7H-10, gap: 0.90-1.00 mm

B308E:BKR7ES-11, gap 1.00-1.10 mm (Different from 4-cyl)

Note:
1) Since the sparkplug is used as a sensor, the recommended type must be used, otherwise the "sensor reading can not be trusted".

2) Use only NGK plugs.

3) Electrode gap, use the values shown above. There is absolutly no truth in the myth "LPT 1.10 and Aeros 1.00".

4) Gap should be checked with a wire gauge.

5) You need a 16 mm or in inch, 5/8" sparkplug socket.

6) Tightening torque is very important, too loose will cause the plugs to overheat.
4-cyl.28 Nm
V6:27 Nm.
Or, if using NGK (Saab) sparkplugs, first just nip the plug with your fingers, then tighten with 3/4 of a turn.

7) Tighten the DI with 11 Nm.

8) The myth that All 4-cyl can use BCPR6ES-11 or BCPR7ES-11 is not true.

9) Under some circumstances different plugs can be used, we run BCPR5ES-11 on some markets, due to fuel quality and driving behaviour. However, DO NOT
try to be an expert, just simply because you're not ! Stay with the official advice.

10) For highly boosted high reving engines BCPR9ES-11 has been tried,
however, if you need cold hard plugs like this, you may consider your choice of tuner...

11) Also BCR8ES has been tried, once again, it may not be the best choice...
The BCR8ES plug is physically different from the BCPR plugs, the gap is "more hidden" and this is not what a engine expert aims for. The gap should normally be deep into the air/fuel mixture.

12) Do NOT use iridium plugs.

[Raven18940]

8) The myth that All 4-cyl can use BCPR6ES-11 or BCPR7ES-11 is not true.

Could you explain why this is? I've been using 7ES plugs in my aero for about a year now and they seem to run great. :confused:

Also do you recommend 6 or 7 for a standard aero? What about a lightly modded?

[DrBoost]

Hej !

The answer to your question can be found in Note #1 above.
Plus, fine electrodes will give you a better ignition of the air/fuel mixture, less ignition delay and less misfire. Longer spark plug life may not be that important for you ?

We've got an Aero at home, it's a M/2001 with M/02 s/w (250 bhp) , I'm using PFR6H-10 gap 1.00 mm. Driving habits from mild to wild. The plugs I'm using should work well up to at least 300 bhp IF the concept is in harmony.
(my wife is the owner of the Aero)

[Raven18940]

Hej !

The answer to your question can be found in Note #1 above.
Plus, fine electrodes will give you a better ignition of the air/fuel mixture, less ignition delay and less misfire. Longer spark plug life may not be that important for you ?

We've got an Aero at home, it's a M/2001 with M/02 s/w (250 bhp) , I'm using PFR6H-10 gap 1.00 mm. Driving habits from mild to wild. The plugs I'm using should work well up to at least 300 bhp IF the concept is in harmony.
(my wife is the owner of the Aero)

Well I guess I'll be changing out to the platinum 6's next oil change (1000 miles away). I can't believe a little thing like that makes a difference, I could have sworn the car felt like it was running better. In my defense I did gap them below 1.0mm. :p

[Z28Hokie]

Dr. Boost = Very Helpful

[DrBoost]

Hej !

Well, sometimes I try to do my best....
To me, happy Saab owners are my reward.

BTW; Changing sparkplugs on the engine shown in the avatar, will require a set of 24 plugs + some weired tools...

[Aeronaut]

From Br Boost

Quote:
We've got an Aero at home, it's a M/2001 with M/02 s/w (250 bhp) , I'm using PFR6H-10 gap 1.00 mm. Driving habits from mild to wild. The plugs I'm using should work well up to at least 300 bhp IF the concept is in harmony.
(my wife is the owner of the Aero) End Quote.


How did you get the MY02 software? Do the dealers have access the the software? Final question - would the 02 software work on my 2000 9-5 Aero and would I get a noticeable power increase?

Thanks Dr. Boost.

[DrBoost]

Hej !

Dealers can only update the s/w with the same type of s/w, or in plain english, if the vehicle is a M/2000 Aero, they can not reprogram to a Aero M/2002 s/w.
Then, how I got the s/w, well because of what I do during daytime... :cool:

The option that you have, is to find a M/2002 Aero ECM and fit it to your car.
I would say that the M02 vs. M/00 is milder at low rpm and slightly more at higher rpm's. A Aero M/00 will deliver approx. 240 bhp under overboost, while the M/02 around 250 bhp at overboost, so the difference is not as great as it may look if you study the figures 230 bhp vs. 250 bhp. I must add, the difference between M/02-05 vs. M/06 is greater.

[Martin_9-5t]

What plug should i be running on a 2.0 lpt, tuned to stage 4? BCPR6ES or PFR6H ?

[DrBoost]

Hej !

Sorry for the late reply, I've been thinking you see....
Not that it helped much. :cheesy:

I can not tell you which plug to use, since I have no background data of you car. Even with that, it's hard to give a correct answer. But, I would guess that a either BCPR6ES-11 or PFR6H-10 would work if everything is in harmony.
Unfortunatly, that's not always tha case, it seldom is, so it's more likely that one step colder plug is required. So sould you use a BCPR or a PFR plug ?
It simply depends on the tuner, is it designed for BCPR or PFR.
To make the choice even more interesting, I don't think they know how to adapt for the different styles of plugs.

Sadly, I've got no clear answer for you.

[Gazolzwurf]

What plugs does Hirsch use with their stages?
Didn't they worked alongside Saab during the development stages?

[aeropilot]

What plugs does Hirsch use with their stages?
Didn't they worked alongside Saab during the development stages?

As far as I'm aware the plugs arn't changed from stock.........well not for the 280hp Aero kit anyway.

[aikman7981]

Two questions... I just performed this on my Aero. The gap tool I used only went up to .88 mm so I left a little extra room, should I be concerned if all the gaps aren't precise? They are all close, certainly. Also, when you say "nip" the plugs with your fingers you mean put them on hand tight plus 3/4 turn? I hope so b/c thats what I did. I turned the ratchet until resistance and then another 3/4. Upon restarting vehicle after the job I got the TCS off light. I turned off and started again with no lights. Am I good to go? That was more like 3 questions :roll:

[Gazolzwurf]

Not so sure on the gapping technique but the rest sounds ok.
Get a new feeler guage, they're not much to buy.

[Kermit]

Try asking in the NG900 forum. :roll:

[rush_ad]

i've been asking around for help. damn is a damn good thread.

thanks for a great guide.

[jfiala1254]

so what is the proper torque for the 9-5 sparks

[mickel1138]

so what is the proper torque for the 9-5 sparks


4-cyl.28 Nm
V6:27 Nm.
Or, if using NGK (Saab) sparkplugs, first just nip the plug with your fingers, then tighten with 3/4 of a turn.

Tighten the DI with 11 Nm.


I may actually try to change my plugs myself now...

Mickel

[Raven18940]

In American that's about 20 lb-ft.

[mickel1138]

Can we make this into a sticky?

[Raven18940]

I used to be, it became unstuck somehow. :confused:

[Kermit]

Can we make this into a sticky?

Thers's a direct link to it in the FAQ's, along with oil changes/pads & rotor changes etc.

[Cosmic95Lr]

What size are the Torx on top of the DI? Thanks

[rush_ad]

how are the NGK G-Power Platinum BKR6EGP plugs like?

any of you guys used them before?

[Kermit]

What size are the Torx on top of the DI? Thanks

Dunno, but the screwdriver supplied in the SAAB tool kit fits it perfectly. :cool:

[DerekW]

The supplied screw driver might fit but if the screws are tight you canot get sufficient grip on the screw driver to undo the DI screws.
As I found to my cost when a DI Cartridge died on me while on a journey <g>

[mfong]

How often should I change the plugs?

~Mike

[Thedriver]

Hej !

Dealers can only update the s/w with the same type of s/w, or in plain english, if the vehicle is a M/2000 Aero, they can not reprogram to a Aero M/2002 s/w.
Then, how I got the s/w, well because of what I do during daytime... :cool:

The option that you have, is to find a M/2002 Aero ECM and fit it to your car.
I would say that the M02 vs. M/00 is milder at low rpm and slightly more at higher rpm's. A Aero M/00 will deliver approx. 240 bhp under overboost, while the M/02 around 250 bhp at overboost, so the difference is not as great as it may look if you study the figures 230 bhp vs. 250 bhp. I must add, the difference between M/02-05 vs. M/06 is greater.

Dr Boost, If installing an 02 ecm in a 00 aero, is it just a fast swap, or is a dealer required for alarm codes etc ?

[Kermit]

Tech II needed for security functions to work.

[mfong]

I have a question. . .:o
How do you know that you're putting that much torque? Chris said to exert 28 N-m, how do you know that you're putting much torque into it? Is there a gage?

~Mike

[Chris 9-5]

You need to use a "torque wrench"


http://images.overstock.com/f/102/3117/8h/www.overstock.com/images/products/P10176749.jpg

[stipud]

I have a question. . .:o
How do you know that you're putting that much torque? Chris said to exert 28 N-m, how do you know that you're putting much torque into it? Is there a gage?

~Mike
Use a torque wrench. There is however a rule of thumb for tightening them... I believe it is to first turn it finger tight, then give it 1/2-3/4 turn. I am not 100% sure of this however, but it is written on the box of sparkplugs.

[mfong]

You need to use a "torque wrench"





Yeah, I know that. But How do you know that you're exerting that much force? You know what I mean? I can use a torque wrench and tighten them as tight as I can, but how do you know that you put 28 N-m into it. and Ive been away from school for so long that I keep saying "N-m" as "Nano-Meters"......:o I go back in August....

Stipud:
thanks, i'll keep that in mind, when I buy some plugs.

Do I have to gap the plugs? Because don't the plugs come pre-gapped to what is is reccomended if I buy the plugs from the dealership?


~Mike

[Chris 9-5]

You set the wrench to the correct torque and it will click when tight enough.

Yes you should always check the plug gap.

[theWag]

[QUOTE=Chris 9-5]You need to use a "torque wrench"
[QUOTE]

Chris - don't suppose you've a screwfix part no. for the torque wrench? Have been meaning to get one, Screwfix do a range of torque wrenches ranging from £15 to something like £75. Would you recommend the one you got and if so what part no? I'm curious if its the £15 one?

Regards

[Chris 9-5]

It was the cheapest one ;oops:

[Chris 9-5]

Yeah, I know that. But How do you know that you're exerting that much force? ~Mike

Thats another of your classics Mike :p

[TheRedBaron]

Two questions... I just performed this on my Aero. The gap tool I used only went up to .88 mm so I left a little extra room, should I be concerned if all the gaps aren't precise? They are all close, certainly. Also, when you say "nip" the plugs with your fingers you mean put them on hand tight plus 3/4 turn? I hope so b/c thats what I did. I turned the ratchet until resistance and then another 3/4. Upon restarting vehicle after the job I got the TCS off light. I turned off and started again with no lights. Am I good to go? That was more like 3 questions :roll:Then use a .88 and a .12! ;)

Proper tightening torque is a medium grunt. :lol:

Dr. Boost, you mentioned that a smaller electrode on the plug (ie the 'platinum' I think it's called) leads to a better burn - for some reason many people (at least with tuned c900s) get better, more solid boost with the plain ES plugs. Granted the platinums do last longer, but they cost more each time, so I suppose it evens out in the end. I understand the rationale for getting proper feedback with the DI cassette, but you seem to indicate the "better burn" theory applies to all internal combustion engines - what is the rationale?

[theWag]

It was the cheapest one ;oops:

But is it any good? I believe it does 28-210Nm so bottom end only just does the spark plugs and it would be no good for the DI cassette

Perhaps this is an excuse to buy 2 torque wrenches? The one above + the £30 one capabile of 5-25Nm?

[Chris 9-5]

I dunno .................. never used it, only bought it for the picture shoot in this thread :p

[mfong]

Thats another of your classics Mike :p

what?
I finally have my email working again.
I'm stopping by the delearship to get some plugs!

~Mike

[Chris 9-5]

I finally have my email working again.
~Mike

Thats great Mike :confused:

[djrpowell]

Hi,

i want to change my spark plugs and have all the kit outlined except the dielectric grease. I have copper grease for my brakes but i am not sure if this is the same thing?

Does anyone know an answer to this or knows where to buy a small tube of this stuff.

I only have two cars to do every 25k miles or so and do not really want to waste any cash. Is it really needed?

Thanks

Daniel

[Chris 9-5]

I think Maplin sell it, but personally I dont bother with it ;oops:

[djrpowell]

I take it that it is designed to keep out the damp. However, i also take it that if you make a firm connection and the car and connections are newish that it should be ok. This is the first time it has been done on the car at 25k miles.

Thanks

Daniel

[mickel1138]

Just make sure everything is clean, I personally don't think it's nessecary. Unless you re-seat your plugs.

Also remember with new NGK plugs, just hand tighten, and tighten with a 1/4 turn, untill you hear the clinch, NGK's have a torqing washer. At least the ones I know of.

Mickel

[Rumpus]

OK, just got done putting new spark plugs in my 2.0 LPT (98) and a new DIC. When I pulled the old plugs they are NGK BKR5ES-11 ? I've replaced them with BCPR6ES-11 as per this thread and what was given to me after looking it up at the auto parts place. Any ideas why I would have had BKR5ES-11 sparks in? Weird :suprised;

[Raven18940]

OK, just got done putting new spark plugs in my 2.0 LPT (98) and a new DIC. When I pulled the old plugs they are NGK BKR5ES-11 ? I've replaced them with BCPR6ES-11 as per this thread and what was given to me after looking it up at the auto parts place. Any ideas why I would have had BKR5ES-11 sparks in? Weird :suprised;
I've heard of 7's being in there, but never 5's. :confused:

[95uk]

You need to use a "torque wrench"


And here I go, I'm giving a bad example again...don't use a torque wrench to replace spark plugs, luckily never had any problems...guess I did learn a lot from the 'old school' mechanics.... Besides our technicians don't use torque wrenches to tighten spark plugs...they obviously use them for important stuff like head jobs and so on...and to torque up bolts / nuts on wheels during PDI and after they'd had the wheels off.
Guess I need to change my spark plugs again, I'll probably do it when I change my timing chain...

[greenmatt]

Chris can the original post listing a 10mm sparkplug socket please be change for a 16mm. Its a bit misleading for newbys, luckily I read further and then realised I'd never come across a 10mm spark plug socket for a car.

[joer]

Same idea, same gap and tightening torque, but you have three under each DI cassette and you will need these plugs:

http://www.partsforsaabs.com/product_info.php?cPath=34_41_50&products_id=80



Are these fine for my 2002 3.0t model? Do better spark plugs make a difference?

[Turkish Aerolines]

My Saab service in Turkey just replaced my 2005 9-5 Aero spark plugs with NGK PFR6T10G (Denso xref table shows Saab number as 12787099). I did a search in SaabCentral with did part number and no match so it is probably a very new thing. Even google search does not give a lot results. Can someone check this with their local Saab service on this part number please?

Saab technician replaced these with my PFR6H10 which I just replaced 10 days ago after stg3 tuning. I had to take the car to service after serious engine stall problems last weel with my stg3 tuned engine. Because of sudden stall after WOT, service thinks that turbo is damaged causing serious loss of power. Which I will find out today.

[Chris 9-5]

I cant find the first number in a listing :confused:

The second ones are correct for the Aero although I'd use the cheaper 7's. (http://www.partsforsaabs.com/product_info.php?cPath=34_41_50&products_id=77)

I dont think the turbo is the problem, sudden shut down is most likely electrical not turbo - sounds like CPS to me, mine did the same at WOT :confused:

[Turkish Aerolines]

I called the service and insisted them to check on the number one again and guess what! Parts department made a mistake and excuse us :evil: !!! And this is the Authorised Saab service. They also broke the lockpin of turbo and said that this happens very frequently as pins which are prone to extreme temperature are difficult to remove.

And as for the part numbers, back to the original listing and I'm sorry for the short time confusion on my part.

Chris, I already had a set of PFR6H10 but I will consider the 7s if any problems in the future. Is the only diffence the durability?

[Chris 9-5]

Chris, I already had a set of PFR6H10 but I will consider the 7s if any problems in the future. Is the only diffence the durability?

And price really ;)

If you are gonna have to change them frequently, buy the cheaper ones :p

[djrpowell]

I also heard that you should change them with the engine cold to prevent stripping the thread on the engine block.

[GM786]

Hello & Happy New Year 2009 to all.

I have been reading as much as I can to help resolve some problems with a 2000 95SE V-6 Turbo. Beside it got dead slow and powerless over the months, can't really drive too far. The cat have been getting RED HOT before you can reach 1-mile. Today I have changed the entire Exhaust System from Front to Back and the brand new cat was Red Hot in less than 1 mile.
I am truly confused as to why a truly great working car could cause this un-usual problem? I can't drive the vehicle for months... RED HOT in a few minutes, even with the New Brand Exhaust system.
I would be grateful for some advise.
Thank You kindly,
GM
E-mail: razortechnologies@yahoo.ca
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[jsmith]

I just did this on my '03 LPT and found:

-the dealership had installed ngk 7es11's instead of 6es11 specified in manual
-plugs were torqued very lightly - around 10 lbs
-snapped my torx bit trying to tighten the screws for the DIC (good I had a spare)

I immediately saw better consumption but will verify this on my 6hr drive up to Vt tomorrow. New plugs, new Kumhos, long stretches of sweeping highways - woot!

[executor]

Is it ok to use NGK BCPR6E GP plugs (g-power, platinum electrode which is extremely fine 0.6mm). Someone mentioned not to use iridium plugs.

I was at a merchant who did not have NGK BCPR6ES-11 plugs but in the book the GP was listed for the saab 9-5 in my model year range. Any harm in using these? Any benefit? Thanks.

[B~P]

pics from recent plug and dic change. i was getting p1334 intermittently for the past few days. it was time to change them anyway as i have close to 40K on the plugs and dic since stage 3 was installed.


dic and plugs out....

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/Aero_B/Automotive/100_0292.jpg




old dic and plugs. plugs looked pretty good on the outside...

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/Aero_B/Automotive/100_0297.jpg

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/Aero_B/Automotive/100_0298.jpg


old dic ...

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/Aero_B/Automotive/100_0299.jpg


http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/Aero_B/Automotive/100_0302.jpg





new dic seems to be a higher revision than the old one...

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/Aero_B/Automotive/100_0300.jpg


new plugs were gapped to 1.0

[shub]

My autozone didn't have the BCPR6ES-11 plugs- just BCPR6E-11 (it's missing an S). They're copper. Are these the same thing?

[saabfire]

When you go to the NGK website they call for the BCPR7ES-11 in the 2.3t.

[MacNoob]

When you go to the NGK website they call for the BCPR7ES-11 in the 2.3t.

Maybe for the Aero. The 7 is colder than the 6 and would be used for a higher performance engine. the 6 is usually called for.

[shub]

I found that plug in the back of my manual. Just wasn't sure why the plugs I bought are missing the "S" in the model name.

[Bubbaman]

Maybe for the Aero.
Nope, the Aero needs the extreme expensive PFR6H platinum tipped if you follow the factory specs. I've tried the BCPR7ES-11 for a while (gapped to 1.0mm because of my LPG conversion), but they didn't feel good on high power requests. At the end of the line they aren't that expensive because they will serve approx. 35000 miles.

[TaylorGrey2004]

What about using Pulstar Pulse Plugs for my 9-5 wagon?

I ordered the BE-1 model, designed for the car. These plugs are apparently the best on the market, weighing in at a hefty $15 a piece! The recommended gap is 0.025"

I believe Bosch is factory equipment, right?

Anybody try these out or have any problems or positive comments?

I LOVE THE FACT that the engine has a DI - genius. I love these cars! The only thing that sucks about them is the ashtray :-)

[raquettelaker2]

What about using Pulstar Pulse Plugs for my 9-5 wagon?

I ordered the BE-1 model, designed for the car. These plugs are apparently the best on the market, weighing in at a hefty $15 a piece! The recommended gap is 0.025"

I believe Bosch is factory equipment, right?

Anybody try these out or have any problems or positive comments?

I LOVE THE FACT that the engine has a DI - genius. I love these cars! The only thing that sucks about them is the ashtray :-)

DO NOT use Pulstar hooby whatties in your 9-5. ONLY ONLY ONLY use the specified NGK plugs. So many people think that they need to spend $$$$ on the best plugs out there and when they get them in their car it runs like garbage. The 9-5's engine management system is calibrated to be used with ONLY the NGK plugs specified in your user manual.

[MacNoob]

Send 'em back & spend your $15 on the PFR6H as recommended. The DI system is designed to work with PFR6H or BCPR6 NGK plugs ONLY.

I think the only people who would agree "pulstars" or other gimmick plugs are the 'best on the market' are those selling them....

[Chris 9-5]

What about using Pulstar Pulse Plugs for my 9-5 wagon?




Why not actually read the thread :confused:

NGK, thats NGK, just NGK...........................ok ;)

[TaylorGrey2004]

fair enough. NGK it is.

[saabfire]

Maybe for the Aero. The 7 is colder than the 6 and would be used for a higher performance engine. the 6 is usually called for.
My owners manual calls for the BCPR7ES-11 as well. Just installed a set I bought from NAPA the other day. The previous owner had Autolite Platinum plugs in it.

[Balzary]

How bad is it if I slightly over torqued? I'm pretty sure I messed up setting the wrench and set it at 28 lb/ft instead of 21. How bad is it, I can loosen them off after it has cooled off some.

[nathanthepilot]

How bad is it if I slightly over torqued? I'm pretty sure I messed up setting the wrench and set it at 28 lb/ft instead of 21. How bad is it, I can loosen them off after it has cooled off some.


I don't think it will kill the head, but you might want to go back and re torque them to the correct specification before they get stuck in there. Did you use anti-seize?

[saabfire]

So when I went to pull my plugs today to check the DIC they were WET and black. They were pretty carboned up. I cleaned them and reinstalled them. There was enough carbon on them that I could scrape it off. It seems like the car is running rich. I haven't had any CEL's. Could the MAF be faulty causing it run rich or do I just need a step hotter plug?

[saabfire]

I went to eEuroparts to look for plugs and they have the NGK BCPR6ES listed as the plug for a 9-5 2.3L lpt but my owners manual calls for the BCPR7ES-11(currently installed). Is the 6ES a step hotter plug and could it cause any issues or damage to the car?

[MacNoob]

6ES is hotter. I think originally they spec'ed the 7ES for everything and found the 6ES worked better in everything except Aero.

[saabfire]

Maybe I should post these pics here. Here are some pics of the plugs I pulled out. They are the 7's. I'll pull the 6's after a while and see how they look. Like I mentioned no CEL's so I'm guessing the MAF is working OK.
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr308/wysvx/IMG_1659.jpg
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr308/wysvx/IMG_1660.jpg

[djrpowell]

I am no expert but they seem very burnt!

Check this out at the bottom.

http://www.theultralightplace.com/sparkplugs.htm

http://www.triumphspitfire.nl/plugs.html

[saabfire]

They look like they are carbon fouling. Maybe it is because the plugs were the 7's and not the 6's. I'm going to check my head bolt torque today so I'll pull one of the plugs and see how the 6's are running. Is there a way to check what the fuel mixture is? I tried having any CEL codes pulled but there weren't any. If it were the MAF causing the rich mixture you would thing that it would cause a CEL. Could it be the throttle body going bad?

[raquettelaker2]

Something is up. You have way too much carbon buildup on those plugs. Here's what plugs should look like after 35k miles in a healthy engine:

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c326/raquettelaker2/DSC02620.jpg

[saabfire]

Here's what the new plugs looked like. It's only of one plug but the rest looked the same. The plugs only have about 100 miles on them.
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr308/wysvx/IMG_1667.jpg
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr308/wysvx/IMG_1668.jpg