: Anyone have engine whine in speakers?
I recently installed an amp and speakers in the doors(there were none in mine) and I am getting engine noise in the amplified speakers. I have checked the ground, power wire and remote turn on and they are all solid. I also put in noise filters and it is still there. What can I do to eliminate the noise? :(
Did you install the Saab audio system or and aftermarket amp?
I installed an eclipse amp tapped off the rear speakers with a line level converter.
When you tapped off of the speaker leads, and when to the converter, did you use twisted cables? I had noise in my system when I converted the factory head units DIN pre-amp to RCA and ran it back to the amps. Then I went to twisted pair (as in my truck), and gone it was.
Little test.......disconnect the inputs on the amplifier and see if the noise goes away. If it does not, then it is in the power line to the amp or speaker leads from the amp to the speakers. Either case try twisted........yes even twisted speaker wires can make a difference!
What do you mean by "twisted"? Just literally twisted together, or is that a brand of wire. Did your noise change pitch with higher RPMs?
21-02-03, 04:18 PM
Yes, he means to actually twist the wires together. It's an old trick to reduce hum and other interference in non-shielded wires. The two places you'll see it used most are in telephone wiring and the category 5 cable they use for ethernet networks. They twist each pair of wires together inside the insulation, which is why they're commonly called "twisted pair" wires.
You can buy the RCA's twisted from just about anywhere. Personally I prefer Monster Cable XLN (extra low noise) minature. (they are a bit smaller in diameter and easier to work with, I know Circuit City sells them). In terms of the speaker wire you can also buy it, or a little trick, take existing wire, separate the positive and negative so you have 2 separate wires (just peel apart) stick the two wires in a cordless drill(like a bit) have someone hold the other end, and let her rip! Instant twisted cables. Actually a nice way to do alot of wiring.
Ok, we have tried everything except putting in an aftermarket head unit and the whine is still there with inline noise suppressors and an ground loop isolator. Has no one added an amp to their factory system and had this problem? HELP!
Sorry to leave you hanging here, I've been away.
Any luck to date getting rid of the noise?
If not, what happens if you disconnect the speaker inputs on the amp? Does the noise go away? Where is the amp grounded?
Give me full details as to the mount/location of your components and routing of your wiring and we'll try to troubleshoot step by step.
Well, we tried everything and had no luck. I also wanted to add some bass to the system, but we were afraid of multiplying the noise by adding another amp. So what we did was run the the door speakers from the head unit and add a sub running from the existing amp. It worked fine for about 3 or 4 days, but yesterday the whine came back. I think if I run a low pass I can get rid of it. Thanks for all your help. I still don't know where it is coming from though.
19-03-03, 11:20 AM
I can't tell from your responses if you tried the troubleshooting technique of removing the input signal lead to the amp to see if the whine sound is still there (this would obviously eliminate the line level inputs as the cause if the sound is still there.)
If you did try this, and the sound was still there, you might try this: check the routing of the power cable to the amp. If the power cable passes near the alternator, or any other heavy current source, interference can easily get to the amplifier through the power cable. If you suspect the power cable is routed near something like an alternator, you can temporarily try various paths to see if it makes any difference (even try routing it outside the car with a long enough cable just to see if the sound goes away). If you have no choice but to cross a wire carrying a lot of current, try to cross it at a 90 degree angle to minimize the noise you'll pick up. Hope this helps, I've been in the same predicament after installing a new head unit and amplifier before.
All audio installers know...
speaker to line level converters are almost always the problem. The only ones that work are built into amps (amps that accept speaker level input). To do it right, you need a head unit with pre-amp output, or an amp with speaker level input. Anything else is a band-aid on a wound that needs stitches.
You are going to get noise destortion unless you go with an after market head unit. I had the same problem. I ended up getting some custom dash work done and went with an eclipse. Couldn't be happier.
23-04-03, 02:15 PM
excuse the ignorance.....
does the saab have a pre-amp output???
Yes, the stock headunit does have a pre-amp output. I have details on tapping into it on my website. It will get rid of the distortion that you hear from speaker level inputs.
23-04-03, 02:47 PM
^ that is a GREAT webpage man... good job. On my favs now.
23-04-03, 03:01 PM
^ that is a GREAT webpage man... good job. On my favs now.
Yeah, ERP rocks.......literally.
09-06-03, 02:11 AM
the best way I can put this is the power traveling through the power cable induces a current. This current then creates and induced magnetic field. If either speaker wires or rca cables are run parallel to this power wire then the signal gets altered by this magnetic field. As you hit the gas the alternator spins at a faster speed and increases the current that can and most likely will run through your power wire, hence altering the picth of this alternator"whine." the best way to solve this:
1. run RCA's or speaker wires away from power and ground wires(down the opposite sides of the car)
2. If the wires need to come in contact make sure they cross perpendicularly(shaped like a +) for that you decrease the surface area that can come in contact with the magnetic field.
By the way: This problem only affects speakers other than subs do to their interal voice coil limitations. SO ignore me then!!!!