CEL code P1110 [Archive] - SaabCentral Forums

: CEL code P1110


Copey
13th August 2005, 05:30 PM
My check engine light came on today. Car seems to run fine, had it checked at local auto parts store and the code came up P1110. Anybody know what this means??

Chris 9-5
13th August 2005, 05:45 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v159/cbullock/P1110.jpg

P1110 is Charge Air Bypass Problems !

Copey
13th August 2005, 07:57 PM
WOW thanks, but can I please have it in Kindergarden terms :cheesy: What do I need to do??

*EDIT* Not trying to be a smart as$, I am just plain clueless

Chris 9-5
14th August 2005, 04:58 AM
Funny you should ask that cos I didnt understand it either!

I would check all the pipework (small bore vac pipes) to and from the dump valve, plus if you have one of those plastic bosch valves it might be time to change it ;)

Kermit
14th August 2005, 05:22 AM
If you trace the small bore tube from the dump valve back to the bulkhead. Remove the tube, clean the end of it then suck/blow (i can't remember which one), if you can suck/blow the diaphragm has gone in the dump valve and it needs replacing. As Chris already said, check all the vacuum tubing as well for splits/tears and whether they are actually attached.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/agonyman/redsilicontubing.jpg

All vacuum hoses in red. :cheesy:

Chris 9-5
14th August 2005, 05:27 AM
All vacuum hoses in red. :cheesy:

Erm, no they are blue :cheesy:

http://www.saabcentral.com/phpgallery/albums/Cosmic-Blue9-5/9_5_mesh.sized.jpg

Kermit
14th August 2005, 05:47 AM
Been eating your dinner off the engine again Chris? :cheesy:

Copey
14th August 2005, 10:09 AM
Ok, what does the "dump valve" look like. So I just check the tube coming off the dump valve. Does this tube go to what is causing the problem. In the picture with the red tubes, is that a picture of what I need to be looking at.


Thanks guys, I'm trying!!

Kermit
14th August 2005, 10:19 AM
Ok, on the right hand side of the engine bay just behind the radiator will be a black plastic valve with 2 large bore pipes and 1 small thin pipe coming off going to the back of the engine bay (this is the pipe you need)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/agonyman/forgedumpvalve.jpg

This is an aftermarket Forge dumpvalve, look for one similar but in black plastic. The Bosch valve is a known weak spot that a lot of Saab owners change out for the Forge replacement.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/agonyman/enginebay.jpg
You can see it better here behind the JR airfilter sticker.

Copey
14th August 2005, 10:33 AM
Ok, Ill go look. Do you think the small tube may be bad, how far back do I need to trace it? What does the tube go to? Ill be right back.

Copey
14th August 2005, 10:41 AM
Alright, i found it. Mine is a black plastic Bosch one. On the left side is a metal tube, on the back it goes into a plastic tube, then on the right side is a small rubber tube. I followed the small tube all the way back to the firewall where it connects to a small plastic thing. The tube appears to be in pristine condition. It is not dry or cracking and is still securely attached at both points. You say the dump valve is notorious, is this what is causing my CEL to come on, or is it at the other end, the thing attached to the firewall?

*EDIT* I cannot remove the tube from the firewall to try the suck/blow method. It is securly attached. Would anyone have the part number for the OEM dump valve so I may order a new one.

Kermit
14th August 2005, 11:22 AM
There should be a enough spare tubing to cut down the tube 1" to remove from the nipple. If you can blow/suck then the diaphragm has gone in the valve...replacement bypass valve is part no 4441895.

Copey
14th August 2005, 11:33 AM
Kermit, you are a life saver. Is this what I need?



http://img.overnightautoparts.com/live/C307041431BOS.JPG

Kermit
14th August 2005, 12:09 PM
That is indeed a bypass valve, dump valve, blow off valve, whatever you wish to call it. :cheesy:

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxFinn
14th August 2005, 02:31 PM
I am confused how did we get from a code for "Charge air bypass valve to looking at Dump valves (BOV)

Surely the CAB Valve is the problem not the BOV. :confused:

Sorry just my take on things...

The Charge Air bypass valve can be seen in Kermits picture below the black plastic box on the firewall.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/agonyman/redsilicontubing.jpg

Kermit
14th August 2005, 02:55 PM
We haven't yet, if you look at the diagnostic help sheet at the top it says...

DIAGNOSTIC HELP..fault diagnosis concerns a fault in connecting control hoses, in the solenoid valve or bypass valve. I was trying to establish what valve was faulty.

Copey
14th August 2005, 04:51 PM
Uh Oh, I thought this was figured out. Anyway, I was able to remove the small tube from the end of the dump valve. I had a little restistance while blowing in the tube, but almost no resitance while sucking. What is the part number for the other thing, I will try and locate one of those as well.

Chris 9-5
14th August 2005, 05:38 PM
Copey does it drive like a truck pulling a house?

Apparently Code P1110 means the wategate rod has come off, the circlips sometimes come away, so you have no boost;)

Copey
14th August 2005, 06:06 PM
Chris

I have not driven since the light came on, but while I was driving, everything was normal. I noticed the light came on after a nice hard launch from a stop. I looked down noticed the light and continued cruising at 75mph for approx 20 more miles. My wife drove after that and stated that the car drove normal.

Let me go for a drive and see how it drives.

Chris 9-5
14th August 2005, 06:08 PM
ok but its 11.15pm here, dont be out long :nono;


:cheesy: :cheesy:

Copey
14th August 2005, 06:17 PM
Ok, I'm back here is what I noticed

I rolled the windows down and could hear turbo whine. I dont recall hearing that before. The turbo gauge goes all the way into the red and stays there until I let off the gas, then the needle goes all the way to white. If I remember correctly the needle usually stays around the where the white and yellow meet then when I get on the gas it goes towards the red, but never into the red. From what I can tell the turbo is definatly working, maybe a little too much.

Chris 9-5
14th August 2005, 06:22 PM
If the wategate had detached I would expect no boost, also if the dump vale was damaged I would expect you to hear it (like a hooting sound) and boost would again be lost, so it looks more like the other unit which I cant find a part number for :(

D'oh :roll:

Copey
14th August 2005, 06:24 PM
Would that be the unit that Finn mentioned? The Charge Air Bypass valve?

*EDIT* I have boost, it just seems that it is not being regulated. The boost needle was moving quite fast. I dont recall the needle moving so fast before, but then again I dont really pay attention when things are working properly.

Chris 9-5
14th August 2005, 06:30 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v159/cbullock/Intercooler.jpg

How about this vacuum valve then???

Copey
14th August 2005, 06:36 PM
Okay, i know where that is, how do I test it?

Chris 9-5
14th August 2005, 06:39 PM
No idea :confused:

I found this too, but it points to dump valve

http://www.saabnet.com/tsn/bb/9-5/index.html?bID=67624

and

http://www.saabnet.com/tsn/bb/9-5/index.html?bID=86142

I think you need a Saab dealer or Indy or you could end up buying the wrong bit :o

Copey
14th August 2005, 06:45 PM
Well that stinks, the nearest Saab dealer is 6+ hours away. ;oops:

Copey
21st August 2005, 10:16 AM
Well I changed the dump valve, blow off valve whatever it is called. The place I ordered it called it the charge air bypass valve, so that fit the description. So far all is well again. Thanks everyone for the help, it was great being able to self diagnose and not go to the dealer. Im sure I saved a ton of money.

joeyfrisco
23rd January 2008, 12:39 PM
I have an 02 Saab 9-5 4 cyl, 2.3t linear.

I actually had my CEL go on last friday and I checked the code yesterday and it is the same (P1110). I've checked forums about the code and I don't have the usual symptoms of the BPV problem (boost either being totally engaged or off). Actually, the car and turbo seem to be working fine/normal. The car may be slightly idling rough, but then again, if it is, it is subtle enough where I am not certain. Does anyone know what would be the symptoms of a vacuum leak or another possible cause of the error?

Thanks,
-Joe

MacNoob
23rd January 2008, 01:14 PM
I have an 02 Saab 9-5 4 cyl, 2.3t linear.

I actually had my CEL go on last friday and I checked the code yesterday and it is the same (P1110). I've checked forums about the code and I don't have the usual symptoms of the BPV problem (boost either being totally engaged or off). Actually, the car and turbo seem to be working fine/normal. The car may be slightly idling rough, but then again, if it is, it is subtle enough where I am not certain. Does anyone know what would be the symptoms of a vacuum leak or another possible cause of the error?

Thanks,
-Joe

Both times I had the P1110 code it was the black plastic Bosch bypass valve as described in this thread. I also had a rough idle after coming to a sudden stop. My first valve failed then the second (Scantech) replacement only lasted 6 months. If you suck on the small pipe attached to the valve, it should hold vacuum. This part is cheap enough (<$50) and so easy to replace that it's worth just replacing it to see if the problem goes away.

joeyfrisco
23rd January 2008, 01:43 PM
Both times I had the P1110 code it was the black plastic Bosch bypass valve as described in this thread. I also had a rough idle after coming to a sudden stop. My first valve failed then the second (Scantech) replacement only lasted 6 months. If you suck on the small pipe attached to the valve, it should hold vacuum. This part is cheap enough (<$50) and so easy to replace that it's worth just replacing it to see if the problem goes away.

Did you have the issue of the turbo jumping into the red when you pressed the accelerator, or did the turbo appear to function normally?

MacNoob
23rd January 2008, 02:16 PM
Did you have the issue of the turbo jumping into the red when you pressed the accelerator, or did the turbo appear to function normally?

No, there was no indication of incorrect boost pressure. The CEL came on shortly after full boost was attained (highway passing or other heavy acceleration).

joeyfrisco
23rd January 2008, 03:06 PM
No, there was no indication of incorrect boost pressure. The CEL came on shortly after full boost was attained (highway passing or other heavy acceleration).

Sounds almost exactly like what happened to me. I having a little race with a suped-up rice rocket on the way home from work. I guess there are a couple different types of BPV's you can buy. Do you know which are more reliable, less reliable, etc...?

joeyfrisco
25th January 2008, 02:33 PM
I'm having a problem removing the valve. Is there a technique or trick to getting it loose?

Thanks for any and all help.

-Joe

MacNoob
25th January 2008, 02:56 PM
What part are you having trouble with? Remove the two hose clamps, loosen the rubber connector hose by turning it, slide the hose down the metal pipe, then rotate the valve to break it loose from the plastic intake pipe and work it out - it's tight in the plastic pipe.

It's easier when it's all warm, and removing the metal pipe that goes to the intake side of the turbo might give you more room to work.

joeyfrisco
25th January 2008, 03:30 PM
I'm really struggling trying to get the rubber connector hose loose. I am affraid if I wrench on it too hard I might damage where the metal tube connects to the turbo. Other than the clamps, there isn't anything else holding the rubber connector hose on the valve or metal tubing, is there?

MacNoob
25th January 2008, 03:37 PM
You should be able to break the rubber hose loose from the metal pipe just by turning it by hand. If it is really stuck to the metal pipe, stick a thin screwdriver underneath it to break it loose. There should be no sealant or anything else holding it on, just the two clamps.

joeyfrisco
25th January 2008, 04:23 PM
You should be able to break the rubber hose loose from the metal pipe just by turning it by hand. If it is really stuck to the metal pipe, stick a thin screwdriver underneath it to break it loose. There should be no sealant or anything else holding it on, just the two clamps.

Thanks a ton, I got the rubber hose off. Now I'm having problems getting the valve free from the rubber sleave that connects to the plastic pipe. It's strange because the valve can rotate but I can't seem to get it to budge toward me when I pull. I'll probably have to wait until I can have someone hold the clamp open while I break the seal with a screwdriver and pull the valve out. If you've got any other ideas I would be exceptionally grateful.

-joe

stipud
25th January 2008, 04:32 PM
If you've got any other ideas I would be exceptionally grateful.
Wiggle and tug... but be careful, because the little plastic arm that holds it to the block will break too :roll:

Yes, those things are ridiculously tight aren't they.

MacNoob
25th January 2008, 04:33 PM
The plastic pipe is very stiff. It is much easier to remove the valve when things are hot and the plastic is softer.

joeyfrisco
25th January 2008, 04:39 PM
Wiggle and tug... but be careful, because the little plastic arm that holds it to the block will break too :roll:

Yes, those things are ridiculously tight aren't they.

Hypothetically (of course), supposing that little plastic arm broke, where would one get a new one? :o

joeyfrisco
25th January 2008, 10:38 PM
I just finished putting the new valve in and when I took it for a test drive, all appears to be better. I'll have to go down to autozone and clear the code to get the CEL off, but other than that I think it's all good.

A million thanks, MacNoob, and a thousand thanks Stipud.

Cheers,
-Joe

PS - What repair manual would you recommend?

westend
28th January 2008, 07:22 PM
Hi,
First post here and, of course, looking for some help. First, thanks to all the technicians and Saab enthusiasts that post here and share their knowledge with this Forum. You've already saved me a lot of time, money, and grief.
To date:replaced coolant bypass valve, ignition module, water pump, belt, brakes, tires and try to keep the service to the best I know how.
My current problem is the same P1110 error code. Unfortunately, I've complcated the situation with my clumsy handling of the vacuum hoses when replacing the coolant bypass valve. When I was doing the replacement, I broke a plastic nipple off the sensor that is attached to the same bracket. I superglued the nipple back on and all was working well until I experienced the CEL. Upon examination, I found a tee in one of the hoses with a broken nipple also. This can only mean that I have the vacuum hoses switched at some points.
My plea for help is this: does anyone have a diagram or a link to a diagram of the vacuum hose layout regarding the valve/sensor on the coolant bypass valve bracket. If this is the CAB valve I guess we can call it just that. I believe I have one of the hoses correct from referencing the photos in this thread. I'm just not clear as to the layout of the other two.

thfc-phil
26th February 2008, 05:31 AM
Hi,
I too have this P1110 fault. Rough idling, boost seems fairly normal.
After reading all your posts, I have tried the following:
Blowing\sucking through the vac pipe attached to the bypass valve - got red in the face, no apparrent leaks.
There is vacuum created in this pipe with the engine decelerating (finger over the end test!).
However in the Boost Control Valve (T7 system), connected to the turbo (C pipe) and wastegate (W pipe), I can discern no vacuum in the pipe marked R that goes to the inlet manifold, although all connections seem sound when tracing this back.

Any ideas guys? :confused: I don't really want to start swapping bits on the off chance.
How can I test the integrity of the electrical system operating the BCV ?

joeyfrisco
26th February 2008, 03:33 PM
To be honest with you, it seemed like the small tube was holding vacuum when I gave it the blow test, as well. I also thought that my turbo was performing normally (but that was because the hole in the diaphragm was small and formed slowly so I didn't notice a change in performance). I decided to swap the valve out anyway because it seems like it is a weak spot on the car and it is something that I would have to do eventually anyway. After I changed it, I did notice an improvement in the way the turbo performed (responded might be a better way to put it) and after clearing the CEL code I haven't had a problem.

I don't know if that's the case for you, and I am by no means an expert mechanic; but that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

-Joe

Al's Red Wagon
26th February 2008, 06:52 PM
My plea for help is this: does anyone have a diagram or a link to a diagram of the vacuum hose layout regarding the valve/sensor on the coolant bypass valve bracket. If this is the CAB valve I guess we can call it just that. I believe I have one of the hoses correct from referencing the photos in this thread. I'm just not clear as to the layout of the other two.

Will this work?

The elusive Vacuum Diagram (http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1163747&postcount=6)

thfc-phil
27th February 2008, 12:48 PM
Thenks joeyF,

I'll give it a try, I've found a cheap second hand one that'll do for now.
I'll let you know if it works....

joeyfrisco
27th February 2008, 01:28 PM
Thenks joeyF,

I'll give it a try, I've found a cheap second hand one that'll do for now.
I'll let you know if it works....

No problem. You might just want to make sure the 2nd hand one doesn't have the same problem, since the life of the part seems to be about 3-5 years.

thfc-phil
6th March 2008, 03:30 AM
Update 6/3/08.


Fitted second-hand Diverter Valve yesterday. CEL light still out so far !!!:lol:
(Still got rough idle though).

Could just detect (by blowing) a slight leak between the HP side and Vac connection on the original.

Thanks guys!!:cheesy:

vertman
19th November 2008, 07:55 AM
Hi
I,m having the same same code P1110 and have changed the charge air bypass valve and solenoid and checked all hoses for leaks. Also tested the dump valve which seems ok. I did notice the metal pipe coming from the dump valve was loose where it goes over to the turbo. Any help would be appreciated. The car runs fine with plenty of boost.

Thanks
Brian

westend
20th November 2008, 11:46 AM
Hi
I,m having the same same code P1110 and have changed the charge air bypass valve and solenoid and checked all hoses for leaks. Also tested the dump valve which seems ok. I did notice the metal pipe coming from the dump valve was loose where it goes over to the turbo. Any help would be appreciated. The car runs fine with plenty of boost.

Thanks
BrianIf all your plumbing is good and you've replaced the CAB valve, have you tried to reset the fault codes? IIRC, I had to clear the faults after diagnosing and repairing leaks.

A purely observational note: Now that I've had a little more time nder the hood of the 9-5, I've noticed that most of the air handling hoses and fittings throughout the vacuum system are failing. I've turned wrench on a lot of different vehicles and equipment and haven't seen this type of deterioration except on those things that have a lot of years on them. I don't believe that the vehicle has been operated at inordinate temperatures or had a severe environment, previous to my ownership. It might be that the previous owner (or his service people) used some type of chemical around the rubber and plastic fittings. Has anybody else experienced this?

I have read, here, about folks replacing their vacuum hoses but assumed that it was a preventative/cosmetic issue more than a service related problem. I am not looking forward to replacing all the hoses and fittings.

mpaqu076
19th April 2009, 06:44 PM
I've had the P1110 code read and it came with the following message: "Manufacturers Controlled Fuel and Air Metering".

Whenever I give the car more power/boost and let go of the accelerator, I can also hear this whortling/fluttering sound quite well. Boost power and performance does not seem to have been affected.

I've spoken to Christian from Aktive Motors on the phone, and have read around on this forum and it seems like the bypass valve is the issue. So I've done the sucking-on-the-tube test to confirm if this is the problem before I buy a new bypass valve.

I was able to suck the air, but not blow the air into the bypass valve. Does this mean I need a new one?

Hanibal
19th April 2009, 07:49 PM
I was able to suck the air, but not blow the air into the bypass valve. Does this mean I need a new one?

If I understand it correctly, if you can do either or then you need a new one :cheesy:

MacNoob
19th April 2009, 07:50 PM
Suck on the small tube. You should be able to suck some air out of it, but not much before you can't get any more.

Air should only be able to pass between the two large fittings when 'suck' is applied to the small tube.

You have the symptoms of a bad bypass valve.

Bubbaman
20th April 2009, 02:26 PM
Whenever I give the car more power/boost and let go of the accelerator, I can also hear this whortling/fluttering sound quite well. Boost power and performance does not seem to have been affected.
Sound like surge..... It will eventually cost you your turbo! Pressure that returns into the wrong side of the turbo generator is bad news; it won't take much to break the tiny axel between in- and oulet turbinefan.

mpaqu076
20th April 2009, 02:56 PM
Sound like surge..... It will eventually cost you your turbo! Pressure that returns into the wrong side of the turbo generator is bad news; it won't take much to break the tiny axel between in- and oulet turbinefan.

Yikes, so will replacing the bypass valve take care of this issue? Or is there something more I should be looking to?

Bubbaman
20th April 2009, 03:14 PM
Yep, that's normally the primairy cause. You should also replace the 'O'-ring on the base of the pressure return pipe (the alu one from the bypass-valve back to the cobra pipe).

Good luck
Rob

mpaqu076
20th April 2009, 03:43 PM
Yep, that's normally the primairy cause. You should also replace the 'O'-ring on the base of the pressure return pipe (the alu one from the bypass-valve back to the cobra pipe).

Good luck
Rob

Wow, thank you so much for the help and the tips Bubbaman! I will post an update once the parts are bought and the work is completed!

Satinsax
20th April 2009, 04:16 PM
Don't mean to hijack this thread but what size silicone red hoses did you use to replace the stock hose? Where did you buy them? Thanks

mpaqu076
21st April 2009, 11:19 PM
Wow, thank you so much for the help and the tips Bubbaman! I will post an update once the parts are bought and the work is completed!

Sooo I bought a bypass valve (they had no o-rings in stock) and installed it today. It was the first time EVER that I have done any type of work under a car hood!:o:cheesy:

I had a tough struggle getting the old one out, but finally I was able to remove it and replace it with the new one. The silver pipe that goes out on the left side of the bypass valve was a little wobbly, but once reinstalled it seemed fine. Hope I didn't break anything! I connected the valve and assured all was well in place before closing the hood.

I then test drove the car for some time to get a feel for the turbo, and that whortling/fluttering noise I used to hear is now barely or totally inaudible when I let go of the accelerator after flooring it. There is also much less of a jerk when letting go of the gas from full throttle.

However, the CEL has remained on after the work...;oops: Should I wait for it to turn off or is there something else I am missing? The code read initially was P1110 "Manufacturers Controlled Fuel and Air Metering".

I will most likely need some advice to install the o-ring once the dealer receives it. Do I have to take the bypass valve off again and remove other parts?

Thanks so much to all who have/will have helped!;)

Bubbaman
22nd April 2009, 01:33 AM
The "wobbling" is caused by that (worn out) 'O'-ring you are going to replace. Just disconnect the hose between the bypass valve and the alu return pipe to the turbo. Remove the little nut on the base (don't drop it!!!), and pull the pipe out. The 'O'-ring is fitted either on the base end of the pipe, or sticks in the hole where the pipe belongs. Clean everything well and refit the ring to the pipe.
The P1110 can also be caused somewhere earlier in the vacuum circuit. You will need to check all lines from the throttle body to the magnetic valve (mounted on the firewall) and the long line to the bypass. The smallest of leaks can drive your car crazy!

Imran
2nd May 2009, 06:22 PM
Well , I went through all the discussions in the tread related to that. Seems like everybody got there problem solved and the p1110 devil came on me now. What I understood so far that the problem could be related to vacuum hoses or charge air bypass valve. I checked every hose they seems very nice condition and also opened the small rubber hose connected with by pressure valve and tried blow/suck method. I tried hard couldn't blow a even a little bit and when tried to suck it seemed like the valve is sucking back my lips, lol, I mean my lips gets an inner pull and tries to stick with the end of the rubber hose. So, it gave me a feelings that the valve may be working.

Now, I really don't know what to do to get rid of the cel error code. Well the car was running great and the cel wasn't came on until 2 weeks ago. I remember the light came on after speeding really high at 120mph and also did some sudden breaks. Now the problem I feel is idle accelerating after stopping and I think fuel consumption increased a lot and also needs to push the gas pedal a little more to get speed quickly after slowing down than before.

Some places I found people talking about boost pressure valve, what is that? Its not another synonym of charge air bypass or dump valve, is it:lol:? can BPV the problem then, how to test it?

Bubbaman
3rd May 2009, 06:00 AM
Just follow the vacuum line from the bypass valve back to the boost pressure valve mounted on the firewall. This has two other lines connected; one goes to the front side of the throttle body, and the other one goes into a T-splitter and thus indirectly also to the TB.
Check out that valve; you can't judge the correct working of any pressure valve just by sucking or blowing on it ;)......
P1110 can only be caused by these three items.... (vacuum lines, bypass valve and/or boost pressure valve).
Another tip: check the brake booster! That one failed me a couple of years ago with again the P1110 (it sucks up a lot of vacuum!)....

Imran
3rd May 2009, 03:26 PM
Thanks a lot Bubbaman for the quick reply. As you said that p1110 is involved with thaos three things only. So, do you want me to change all the components? Even though the rubber vacuum line looks good , do you think changing it wit a silicon one would be good idea? In my car the other end of vacuum line from the bypass valve is attached to ta white thing with the fire wall. I don't know if you call it boost pressure valve or not. That place is very hard to reach also, if I need to replace it can you please give me some tips or idea how to detach it and replace it successfully becaue its under lots of wiring and the place is also dark. Here I attached two pics from two angles of the thing with what the vacuum line connects with the firewall, I wanna make sure its my boost pressure valve.

Bubbaman
3rd May 2009, 04:56 PM
It's the one mounted with the 2 pop rivets (1st picture lower right corner). I'm just confused about you mentioning "attached to ta white thing with the fire wall"?? The valve itself is black...
If you think everything is looking good you'ld better take the car to a dealer or good indy.... I'm not gonna tell you what to do.

Imran
3rd May 2009, 05:56 PM
OK, let me go and take a look again. I told the white thing because on the second pic as you can see the rubber hose connecting to the point which has a white cover(flashing white light in the pic). Actually its hard to reach as I told , I took the pic somehow putting the camera inside.

I'm tired of my dealer, they charge sky high for any silly things. I love SAAB and like this forum and also trying to educate myself with basic basic repair and mechanical and electrical things of SAAB.

Imran
3rd May 2009, 10:35 PM
Hello guys,

I'm not finding the BPC(Boost Pressure Valve) for my SAAB model. I got this attached pic from internet but don't see anything like that under my hood. Can anybody help me to locate it ?

Satinsax
3rd May 2009, 10:42 PM
try www.eeuroparts.com part # 55562854 It's called a vacuum valve

sorry I don't know how to paste photo

zachc
3rd May 2009, 10:46 PM
http://data.eeuroparts.com/Images/parts/lg_06a72eee-9a90-4502-b407-0b0f1aba684f.jpg

the vacuum valve looks like that

Bubbaman
4th May 2009, 01:32 AM
As i mentioned before, did you check the main brake booster and the vacuum lines to it? These are the very hard, black plastic lines from the top of the TB to the booster. Check that for cracks or leaks.
And yes, you can try to repair by trial-on-error and replace stuff, but that isn't the way... Understanding the cause is much more important to solve things.
But it's your call; at least you should get your hands on a WIS (Workshop Information System) for the car. That will lighten a lot for you!

Imran
7th May 2009, 05:17 PM
Hi All,

I just replaced all the vacuum lines I could see then erased the cel light going to autozone. After that driving , so far it didn't show up and everything seems OK. Thanks guys for your continuous support.

Imran
19th May 2009, 01:56 AM
Unfortunately again she is back. as I said in the last post that I changed all the vac lines I could see then drove 100+ miles, it didn't come back still at that time:cool:, was pretty much sure that there was a vacuum leak and new hoses took care of it. When I reached around 150miles the cel came again with p1110:evil:. Ordered a bypass valve from eeuroparts and tonight replaced it then erased the code again , thought its gone but this time just after driving 10 miles it showed up again:x. Now I really don't know where else to investigate :confused: any idea?

Bubbaman
19th May 2009, 01:02 PM
Well, here's a topic from the SAAB 9-5 WIS (divided into 2 screenshots):

http://www.wirenet.nl/public/saab/wis3.png
http://www.wirenet.nl/public/saab/wis2.png

This should make things clear. Replace the soleno:id valve....

Good luck!

Imran
20th May 2009, 07:00 PM
Are the solenoid valve and vacuum valve same thing? If I need to replace solenoid valve what is the part # for it? I couldn't find anything searching by solenoid on eeuroparts.

Bubbaman
21st May 2009, 05:17 AM
Solenoid valve is the three-way diverter valve on the firewall (marked (605) in the picture above). I don't have the part# available. Detail:

http://www.wirenet.nl/public/saab/wis4.png

Imran
21st May 2009, 02:17 PM
Well got it. Lil help on how to detach it easity will be appreciated since its hard to reach there

Bubbaman
21st May 2009, 02:26 PM
Okay, here you are (remount in reverse order; be sure to have some new pop-in rivets on hand):

http://www.wirenet.nl/public/saab/wis5.png
http://www.wirenet.nl/public/saab/wis6.png
http://www.wirenet.nl/public/saab/wis7.png

NikoTroi
27th September 2009, 04:34 PM
The Good News: The CEL came on, took it Advanced and got the same code. My husband is in Iraq so I prepared our friend for a day of car repair. Open the hood and there was a loose hose under the hood. Hooked it back up, had the CEL reset and it's gone :cheesy:


The Bad News: My engine started making this metalic sounding noise on Wednesday. Same friend looked at it and it needed a water pump. He is now in the process of fixing it.

strictlymacin
1st November 2010, 09:59 PM
Hey I just bought a nice used saab 9-5 and it seems to run great. CEL code P1110 came on. After some investigation and help from another member I've found the vacuum hose that is supposed to go to the bypass valve is on the turbo cobra. The bypass valve is connected to a hose that runs behind the bumper and hangs. Was this done on purpose or a ghastly mistake that I should correct ASAP. Also then where does the mystery hanging hose connect to????

THANKS!!

Imran
1st November 2010, 10:06 PM
I kinda gave up on mine one. Even though dont find any broken hose and replaced hose also the bypass valve, but still have p1110 and have little idle gas on stop light

strictlymacin
2nd November 2010, 01:17 AM
Hey I just bought a nice used saab 9-5 and it seems to run great. CEL code P1110 came on. After some investigation and help from another member I've found the vacuum hose that is supposed to go to the bypass valve is on the turbo cobra. The bypass valve is connected to a hose that runs behind the bumper and hangs. Was this done on purpose or a ghastly mistake that I should correct ASAP. Also then where does the mystery hanging hose connect to????

THANKS!!I put the hose back to the charge bypass valve and turbo performance has increased dramatically with no CEL light so far. Hopefully the previous person just changed the hoses and got confused. Will swap out the OEM bypass valve as well to be safe, but all seems ok. Sounds like I know what I'm doing huh? LOL. Now what about that mystery hose to nowhere?

strictlymacin
9th November 2010, 02:25 PM
The mystery hose was a battery drain from the previous battery I guess. Hooked up to the bypass valve. :o

furgason5
7th November 2011, 08:40 AM
So I have the P1110, figured I would be replacing the bypass valve anyway. Cost is a consideration so would it be better for me to get the OEM replacement, like the bosch or Scantech(found one on ebay for 38 shipped), or are there better ones for a reasonable price(<100)? Links would be helpful

daughtersride
28th September 2012, 11:49 AM
Thanks everyone for your help. Had a disconnected vacuum hose and replaced the air bypass valve. No more HOOT sound