Carlsson project... [Archive] - SaabCentral Forums

: Carlsson project...

15th April 2004, 02:53 PM
So I had another post about what I was planning to with my car - but the title wasn't really right on that one so here's a new one instead.

The original plan looked like this:

Plan Includes:

- engine rebuild and upgrade (by someone else, don't trust myself)
- gearbox refurb
- Custom stainless exhaust system .inc 3" downpipe and battery re-location
- Silicone hoses
- Modified air intake
- Dump valve
- Shiny new actuator
- Will be polishing and cleaning engine ancillaries
- Respray
- 16" wheels
- Service / reconditioning of Turbo
- Replacement of broken parts - hope there aren't any!

If money permits: (can wait till later)

- Slightly darker windows
- Nice front seats from 9000 Aero, 9-3 viggen, ect..
- Stereo upgrade
- Suspension renewal
- Alarm, remote start
- Abbotts stainless sill finishers
- New carpet
- Re-cover door cards

Have decided that I can't really afford some of the stuff on the first bit and that I like the idea of doing some different stuff now so I'm changing the list slightly.

So this is the current list:

- Engine rebuild / upgrade (might try and do this myself)
- Fitting of alternative ECU (stand alone system of some description)
- Respray

And all the other stuff I mentioned earlier will come as and when.

:cheesy: :cheesy: :cheesy: :cheesy: :cheesy: :cheesy:

18th April 2004, 10:24 AM
Went to go and see it today. The car is garaged at the mo.

Had to start with jump-leads because the battery has gone flat ( old battery )

It wouldn't start straight away - tried starting it several times but it wouldn't catch until I gave it a bit of gas. Was trying to start it without using the accelerator - no go tho...

There was also a patch of oil on the floor - not much - but enough to be able to say that the engine is leaking oil.

So just left it idling until the cooling fan kicked in ( 15 mins or so ) Also thinking about giving it a good run at some point - maybe next week.

18th April 2004, 02:51 PM
Cars go to the dogs when they're left sitting. Some preparation can stop this.

If you're going to leave the car standing for any length of time, disconnect the battery, squirt some oil down the bores through the spark plug holes) and turn the engine over by hand (socket on the crank bolt).

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18th April 2004, 05:29 PM
Yeah - it's kind of difficult because I don't have my own garage so I have to rent one :-?

I'm not really entirely happy with the garage I have tho - so I'm not too keen on the idea of doing anything to the car until I have it in the right place. :cheesy:

Really can't wait to start ripping it to pieces tho - sooner I get started - the sooner I'll be able to drive it.

19th April 2004, 06:06 PM
- Nice front seats from 9000 Aero, 9-3 viggen, ect..

how will these fit a 3door car eg need to move foward for rear passengers :-??

20th April 2004, 03:02 PM
Good point :)

9000 might not be so good - although I do believe I've seen it done.

93 Viggen is a 3-door - so should be ok.

There are also some really nice seats by Hirsh.

A long way down the line tho - the seats I have are nice. Would probably be one of the last things I'll want to change...

RM '92 SPG
20th April 2004, 10:38 PM
I have leather seats from a NG900 4dr in my SPG, it's not too bad to have to roll the seats forward with the knob to let people in the back. Not as convenient as 2dr seats, but very nice none-the-less.


2nd May 2004, 04:52 PM
Finally started today.

- Removed the exhaust - found out why it was blowing and not attached to the gearbox case ?? Yup - non OEM - bends in all the wrong places... :!

- Drained the power steering fluid.

- Disconnected the gear selector rod.

Should get some more done tomorrow - if the weather holds-up. Hoping to get the engine out so I can start re-building it.

3rd May 2004, 08:30 AM
Well - bad weather :( So not much done today :(

So three questions if anyone's reading:

- Removed the rubber boot from the joint between the drive shaft and the side of the gearbox and instead of being packed with grease ( as I was expecting ) it was filled with oil. Which leaked all over the place as I loosened the boot! Is that right ? I don't think so??

- Trying to remove the bolts holding the lower control arm to the hub. Nuts came off real-easy, but think I might be about to have lots of trouble removing the bolts. So any tips for getting them out? Before I get the big hammers.

- After separating ball joints - can you re-join them? or do they have to be replaced??

Thanks in advance… :cheesy:

3rd May 2004, 10:42 AM
I'm reading with interest :) And I havn't got anything done on mine today as it's soaking out there :(

1) My 99 had a thick oil in one side and normal CV grease in the other. I used normal CV grease to replace. I have heard something about the tripod bearings needing a grease which liquifies easily as it is needle rollers rather than the normal large ball bearing type. The manual says to use a soft EP grease, which I think is normal CV grease?

2) Do you mean the single tapered bolt which fits into the hub, or the two smaller through bolts which hold the balljoint to the control arm? If it's the tapered bolt then use a ball joint splitter. Can't really comment on removing the smaller bolts - mine came out very easily. But I have heard they can be a pig.

3) You can reuse them, as long as they're not worn, and they're not damaged (both the rubber boot and the taper). I'd reccomend new nuts and bolts throughout though. Especially new nuts as nylocs shouldn't really be re-used. And they're pretty cheap from decent fastener suppliers. Just make sure you get High tensile parts.

3rd May 2004, 10:55 AM
thanks :D

With the ball-joints I was really only worried about getting the car rolling again. I want to remove the engine but keep the wheels on the car. So the ball joints need to be separated to disconnect the drive shaft from the gearbox. I guess I can stick em' back together again once I've moved the drive shafts. :D

There does appear to be some sort of oil leak (coming from the back of the engine from the seal between the gearbox and the block. I am worried (not that much) that the oil filled gaiter (boot) was like this because the leak from the back of the engine was allowing oil to get into the boot and was degrading the grease.

Yes it is those small bolts below the ball joint securing the ball joint to the control arm.

3rd May 2004, 11:13 AM
I doubt an external oil leak could fill the boot up - the gaiter clip would have to be loose, which would mean anything runny in there would probably have been centrifuged out anyway! Don't know if an internal leak (i.e. somehow getting through the inner driveshaft) is possible, depends if it's made up of more than one bit etc.

Have you soaked the balljoint bolts with WD 40 or similar? Then leave it for a while to penetrate in. One thing you could try first to loosen the ball joint bolts is to screw the nut most of the way back on, and then hit the nut with a hammer. You should be able to hit it fairly hard without damaging the bolt, and you're going to use new nuts anyway, right :wink: :cheesy: THat might be enough to get them moving.

Otherwise, I think there's been some threads (pun unavoidable!) in the past on getting them out.

3rd May 2004, 11:22 AM
funny have been working exactly along those lines (with the bolt problem)

Big hammers time - I think.

Would like to keep the bolts working tho... so I can put them back in for a short while - for rolling the car about.

Yes - I surpose your right about the external oil leak getting past the gaiter clip (not possible) - but what about the question of how the oil ended up in there in the first place? The oil would keep running out of the gaiter while you were trying to fill it up?? So unless you could lay the car on it's side while you filled up the gaiter ?? :lol:

3rd May 2004, 11:54 AM
That's one of the reasons I decided to use CV grease :) I wonder if the grease used is actually a bit thicker when it goes in, and then "breaks down" a bit later. Only guessing there though...

It might be possible to inject a thin grease through the small end of the gaiter before the clips are put on, like I think you're supposed to do with the steering rack, but even that would be a complete pain of a job.

New balljoint bolts aren't all that expensive (about £2.50 for aftermarket Scantech bolts and nuts per joint)- Just don't mash them so much that you've riveted them in! Those bolts are some of the few I had trouble sourcing myself. They're stepped, so normal ones won't do. I ended up buying genuine ones at a bit more expensive, but have since found out that the scantech ones are also stepped, so could have got them cheaper!

3rd May 2004, 04:52 PM
Last time I had to pull a driveshaft, I just undid the balljoint to control arm bolts and left the balljoints mounted to the hub. You only really need to undo this joint if you are replacing the balljoint itself...

BTW, has anyone ever tried replacing an inner CV joint to gearbox seal? It looks pretty horrendous from reading Bentley. I have an inner driver looking a bit oily and when I changed the final drive oil (auto box) last year, about three drops came out! I can't guarantee that there's a leak here since I've just done the crank pulley (and oil pump) seal yesterday and given the engine a good wash. I'll be crawling around underneath over the next week or so looking for damp bits...

3rd May 2004, 04:56 PM
just wait for a while - bottom of my car is quite oily - hence the requirment for work. I could leave it and just replace bits when they break - but that's not really the way I work... :D

9th May 2004, 05:12 PM
So bad weather on Saturday (raining most of the day) and Sunday wasn't much better ( but not raining ) so decided to do a bit more.

No questions - just babble - read on if you wish.

Ball joints are difficult to separate from the hub assembly :o and I didn't have the ultimate ball joint separator tool ( even though I had two different types ) so it was boring work. Could not remove the bolts which secure the control arm to the ball joint on the lower control arm. I tried hammers, WD40, spanners, mole-wrench, even used an angle-grinder to remove the head from the bolt (guessing that it might be seized at the head) - No go tho... ! Had to separate the ball joints. Could not get bolt off of the upper ball joint had to grind that off. Also snapped the shock mounting on the upper control arm.

So not a good day for control arms !!! (two new ones required for offside :roll: )

Drained the coolant couldn't be bothered with the Bentley ****_e where it instructs you to remove the coolant drain plugs from the engine and radiator. Decided instead to pop the hose of the bottom of the radiator - worked fine.

Also removed some electircal crap - used for something I'm sure :roll: ( like the ignition )

So until next weekend… :cheesy: :cheesy: :cheesy:

15th May 2004, 06:31 PM
So got the engine out today. Surprised it was working. Does not look too good to me :-?

Gearbox exhaust mounting issue

Oil leaking

Turbo coolant pipe corrosion

And just for fun

15th May 2004, 06:35 PM
Notice - when you look at the engine from a distance (in the top two pics) it just looks like a black lump... :cheesy:

Theres work to be done...

15th May 2004, 09:40 PM
very nice looking car, and an AWESOME landscape! I am a big landscaping kind of guy, and that is something else! love the drive and the arangement of the shrubs and stuff. very nice :)

16th May 2004, 05:45 AM
just suburban London really.

It’s like this in quite a few areas around London.

And the plants were already here when we moved in 6mths ago.

Does look nice I spose... :cheesy:

16th May 2004, 09:07 AM
Check the engine stand - holds then engine by it's mounts.

Will probably find out later that I can't get to one of the bolts :roll: - seems ok tho.. and better than the floor :cheesy:

16th May 2004, 07:05 PM
Re. the engine stand.

The CofG is quite high. If it starts to tip when you're heaving at things, it'll be a bugger to stop and IIRC scaffold pole clamps can pivot.

I suggest you triangulate the square at the rear and one of the sides, then bolt the whole thing onto a thick lump of plywood about four feet square as a base.

Sorry to be a wet blanket, looks like fun so far. :cheesy:

James Bond
17th May 2004, 01:36 AM
Yes, please prop at the back where there is only the single upright!

17th May 2004, 01:49 AM
Sounds like good safety advice. I've tried pushing it off the stand - with the hoist still attached - just in case. Wouldn't budge. Also, I guess by the time I've un-bolted all the ancillaries and removed a whole load of other stuff - it will become a lot lighter.

Promise I will let you know if it falls off - :D

17th May 2004, 05:08 AM
You can buy proper engine stand for £72, and would allow you to rotate the engine for easier access to parts.

Many Draper trade stockists will give you a discount too, and there's many other companies that sell that product for less too. Maybe Halfords sell them? Well worth the investment IMO, and after the project ends you could sell it to recoup your costs.

EDIT: That very Draper stand is on EBay with 11h to go, price currently £21!

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17th May 2004, 06:50 AM
Good idea - have you got one of these?

Was wondering if you knew if it is compatible with the engine. i.e. mounting, weight, ect...

Will I be able to get it off the current stand or will I have to rent the engine hoist (again) to get it onto the new stand ?

Johann F
17th May 2004, 07:14 AM
Good work - the red hose is not original - looks like thecrankcase vent system has been re routed for some reason.
The grease in the inner drivers is not the same as CV grease - it does pour out when hot but solidifies when cool. It needs to be a bit more like an oil to properly lubricate the needle rollers.

17th May 2004, 07:29 AM
Isn't that red 'hose' the battery cable!?

Or am i looking at the wrong thing again?

17th May 2004, 07:43 AM
Johann - the red hose is just the positive battery lead. Decided to disconnect at the other end - instead of at the starter. You can see the negitive hanging out the bottom (lower right of picture)

The oil was the same at both drivers. i.e. not solid - liquid instead. Think it must have decomposed over time.

17th May 2004, 09:40 AM
Good idea - have you got one of these?
Was wondering if you knew if it is compatible with the engine. i.e. mounting, weight, ect...
Will I be able to get it off the current stand or will I have to rent the engine hoist (again) to get it onto the new stand ?
I don't own an engine stand, as I've never had cause to do this type of work. I think engine stands are pretty much universal, but I really can't say for sure - anyone else have any idea on this?

Your homemade stand looks to be at approximately the same height as a stand. If it's higher or lower by an significant degree, you'll have to lift the engine again. Any chance of rigging up a block and tackle hoist from something? Or maybe imaginative use of a car jack would work, but there's the risk of toppling the stand :o

Just had another look on EBay for "engine stands" and there's loads! Some on a £30 Buy It Now thing IIRC.

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18th May 2004, 08:28 PM

I got my engine stand for 20 U.S. dollars at some tool convention. Thats the only pic I have.. But it stayed on there pretty well. I just went to the autoparts store and got 4 heavy duty bolts and washers to hold it on there.. I also got my engine hoist for 150 dollars at that same parts show. 5 ton? I cant remember. But it does the job thats for sure.

19th May 2004, 01:11 AM
so what do the bolts attach to ? Can't really see in the pic. 8)

Bid on the eBay one and should be going to pick it up on the w/end...

19th May 2004, 01:09 PM
i took the plate that covers the crankshaft off and put 4 bolts in where those bolts go. You can get away without taking the plate off but your going to have too eventually to replace the crank gasket..

21st May 2004, 03:59 PM
Emmet, how are you getting on with the new engine stand?

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21st May 2004, 05:15 PM
Well hopefully picking it up tomorrow...

I don't spose you know the guy - seeing as you recomended the link - I bid on the one you posted...


21st May 2004, 08:53 PM
Nope... I can't even remember the seller's name. I just did a search for "engine stand", and the Draper auction came up. I picked that one because (a) it was cheap and, (b) I own a Draper tools catalogue and know what that stand looks like ;oops: ;oops:

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22nd May 2004, 04:12 AM
So a bit lucky that it wasn't far away either... 8)

22nd May 2004, 02:04 PM
Have the stand now. Looks like I will need to remove some of the ancilieries to expose a suitable mounting point. Doing this now.

Was a funny place. The guy was into banger racing. It was a yard with small warehouse and it was at the end of a un-made road. There were three guys there doing different bits to a transit van which I think they are racing tomorrow.

They had some interesting cars: x2 Mazda RX7's, Stag, Morris Minor, Saab 96, Mini Moke replica.

Saab had been on the track though and was completely battered so it was almost unrecognisable. :cry:

2nd June 2004, 02:04 PM
Having major trouble fixing the engine to the stand. None of the local motor parts shops sell bolts which are long enough to secure the engine to the stand. I had to order some roofing bolts from some place on the Internet - so will give those a go.

On the up side - I found someone selling a set of 16" Aero alloys in the Saab Central Classifieds section and decided to make the purchase - they are pretty nice - tried them on the car and they look great - IMO of course. :wink:

Center caps are a bit dodgy though :suprised;

2nd June 2004, 05:18 PM
Very nice. I think the Super Aeros look really good on them. What's wrong with the centre caps? Look fine.

2nd June 2004, 05:57 PM
that car is gorgeous! I really like the carlson look, and the 16" rims set it off great. looks funny to see the front sit so high without a motor lol!

2nd June 2004, 06:54 PM
just put my 16's on too ejenner, identical to yours. I think its must be really hard to get the colour to match on the plastic caps. Mine have been done in the same paint as the wheels with the same result as yourself.

Ps you really dont want to drop the engine :nono; trust me, not telling you how I know though :oops:

3rd June 2004, 06:18 AM
We had to buy a new alternator for a customer once...

10th August 2012, 07:40 AM
This is the oldest thread in the project forum. So how about an update! :lol:

Car is still off the road but getting pretty close to finishing now.

The final spec going on to the road will be:

- Respray in original colour with door locks removed and silly vent in front of the wheel :roll:
- Engine rebuilt
- Stainless equal length manifold
- Old turbo to begin with, new turbo bought and ready to fit but not from the start
- 16-inch aeros painted in Saab Iridium Blue with pearl clear coat
- 9000 Aero seats
- Undersealed + rust repair = one of the major things stopping the progress of this project in about 2005
- Many new parts
- Aluminum flywheel
- Trionic 5 Engine management
- New Saab Sports springs
- Powerflex polly-bushings
- Reasonably new Koni shocks
- Saab 9000 brakes
- Very basic gearbox rebuild (might not be good enough in the end)
- Steering rack rebuild

For the current project thread you have to go to:

At the moment I am rebuilding the steering rack and adapting the lower part of the rear engine mount to clear the exhaust manifold which was made a bit too big by someone who did not have any guidelines to work to.

Most recent picture showing the sort of stage I'm getting to with the rear end completed.

Front end now completely stripped for chassis coating and engine bay paint.

Just reading the begining of this thread and seeing some of the things I found difficult back then really proves to me how much I've learnt since 2004! I can remove a ball-joint from a 900 in about 5 minutes these days. I've also got my own workshop which I didn't have at the begining. So a lot has changed. I've also got 3 more Saabs than I had back then and bought countless others in between. :nono;

11th August 2012, 11:23 AM
link is broken...

11th August 2012, 12:30 PM
Changed the links to - the board URL changed today. ;ol;