:(
Shelled out for a TIM 1 bar gauge for my pretty much standard T16S (actually registered on the V5 in 1984, thought they were all MY85 onwards).

Only mods are a cheap Race-X cone filter with Heatshield, some modding to the intake pipework and ducting to give it a cold feed,
http://www.bouncing-czechs.com/imagery/Intake%20cone/cone5.jpg

and a Bailey alloy recirc valve, plus about 3 miles of silicon VAC hose.

Running on Optimax (Cheapest super locally to me ATM, so why not).

Car still feels bloody fast after a year of ownership, so not so bad I suppose (but I have come from old Skoda ownership previously), but the new boost gauge is only showing a peak and hold of .6 bar (just shy of 9 PSI).

Haven't checked what base boost is on the new gauge as I only got it fitted last night, and tested the morning (haven't hooked up the backlight yet), want to get this sorted before I start playing with the APC.

As you mention, first step is to check the base boost before starting to play any further.

Yep. Check the base boost, spray loads of WD40 on the wastegate rod everyday until the weekend, and maybe plan for an easter covering crap while I flush out the boost pipes and intercooler, and TB with carb cleaner. Oh Joy.

BTW, has anyone ever used 10k boost on their Saab engines, how do you feed it into without it buggering up the AMM.

You can disconnect the pipe from the IC to the throttle body and spray the stuff in there. This messes up the AMM readings but the car does run.

If the throttle is blipped it does produce a large amount of smoke though, just ask Matthew :cheesy:

Cheers. Guess the neighbours are going to love me over easter then.

Wonder if I could just loosen the clamps, from the Turbo to the intercooler, and using a straw like a WD40 straw, fit it between the rubber and the pipe to the intercooler, and spray something like 10k Boost (never really been sure whether that stuff actually does anything, or just makes smoke for a couple of hours) so that it is sent through the intake, but doesn't go through the turbo?

You can spray it in anywhere in the inlet system - remove the distributor vacuum line on the throttle body housing and spray in there...

Pete.

After a smokey experience at Kodak, I think that squirting carb cleaner into the intake is a running engine is a bad idea and ineffective IMO.

For a start, I am not convinced the cleaner will be in contact with surfaces for long enough to remove deposits - especially on a hot engine. Even if it did remove grot, where does this end up? Inside the engine which is exactly where you don't want it to be.

It's easy enough to clean intake piping with carb cleaner and a rag, which is what I'll be doing in future. Even removing the throttle body is quick to remove and, with the intake manifold, could be chemically dipped to remove all contaminants.

An old method of internaly cleaning an engine was to squirt some water in there - turns to steam in contact with hot engine surfaces and effectivley steam cleans it. Too much and you will hydro lock the engine - try a thin tube with say a 1mm restrictor connected to one of the manifold vac ports - rev the engine and let the manifold vacuum pull the water in from a bottle.

ERL produce a very nice system that does this for you :cheesy: :cheesy:

Those suggestions sound great, but I was hoping to start loosening/flushing the boost pipes and intercooler through at the same time. Maybe softening anything that is gummed or really crudded up.

BTW, on the old all alloy intercoolers, is there a drain plug that you can get at underneath, or is it necessary to risk breaking bolts/stripping threads to get it out to clean?

The old IC's indeed did have a drain - it's still better to remove the unit so you can clean the external matrix which will likley be blocked by road dirt. To clean the internal surfaces - fill with parrafin, leave to soak and tip it out. If you realy want to go to town I would dismantle the whole intake system and it's pipes and flush them through off the car with parrafin - this is cheap and fairly non toxic and dissolves sludge and dirt very well. It also works well on the external parts of your engine.

Cheers Johann.
Was going to pull the pipework too, and give that a flush.

Never thought of parafin, will have to check where I can get it locally.

Had considered using the brush cleaner that someone suggested (can't remember if it was here or Saab scene) as an engine bay cleaner, in a hand pump sprayer, because it was water soluble and fine to drain away.

Otherwise it is Xylene carb/brake cleaner and a light headedness for the rest of the day.

You can get parrfin from garage filling stations or DIY stores and it's very cheap. I'd stay clear of Xylene - nasty, toxic carcogenic stuff :evil: I also use a bike cleaner called 'muck-off' - it's quite expensive but it's totaly non toxic and environmentaly freindly. You can get it from Halfords in their bike section. I cleaned my whole engine bay with this - sprayed it all over and hosed it off down the jet wash.

You can get parrfin from garage filling stations or DIY stores and it's very cheap. I'd stay clear of Xylene - nasty, toxic carcogenic stuff :evil: I also use a bike cleaner called 'muck-off' - it's quite expensive but it's totaly non toxic and environmentaly freindly. You can get it from Halfords in their bike section. I cleaned my whole engine bay with this - sprayed it all over and hosed it off down the jet wash.

I've heard of Muckoff (being an ex mountain biker type, still got the bike but lost most of the interest, and gained too much weight). Citrus based isn't it?

MTB'ing is the best most fun you can have loosing weight ( well nearly :wink: )

MTB'ing is the best most fun you can have loosing weight ( well nearly :wink: )

I know (on both counts).

I used to really enjoy it, but it seems, as I spent more on the bike, it it went from a reynolds 531 rigid, and has gradually turned in a long travel aluminium full suspension bike, I've actually cycled less, and so have mountainbiked less, so have gotten more unfit, and lost interest in cycling, and the pattern starts again.

Looks like my Wastegate actuator may be getting a little old and ropey.

With the application of a little plus gas the locking nut came slack nicely.

Expecting to find a pin, I was surprised to find what looked like a circlip (underneath with a torch).

Except it wasn't a whole clip, it was like two half pieces wedged in to hold the actuator arm and rod together. They took a bit of wiggling, but once out, the rod slipped off cleanly.

I gave it two full turns, re-assembled it, and used a think cable tie with the end left on as a temporary replacement until I can find some circlips.

Took a test run, and it peaked at 0.8Bar, but straight away, it crept back to 0.6Bar peak.

That was on a mixed tank of Optimax and Esso premium (optimax has gone up, and Esso Super is too expensive, but their premium is the cheapest locally).

Now I have it peaking, what does anyone suggest to get it to peak and hold? I assume the wastegate is still creeping open at peak, but I'm loath to adjust the rod further unless told to.

On an aside, I checked the solenoid was actually working, checked if it clicked when disconnected, and discovered a load of the insulation of both wires was just crumbling, so I stripped it back and taped it.

I guess I should really try a base boost run and see where it opens without the APC, before I discount adjusting it an tighter.

Disconnect the APC solenoid and give it another run, if it still drops back then it has to be the actuator! If it holds, then the drop must be the APC detecting knock!!

Disconnect the APC solenoid and give it another run, if it still drops back then it has to be the actuator! If it holds, then the drop must be the APC detecting knock!!

Not strictly true. A tired acuator may be able to cope with the exhaust pressure caused by running 6psi but may be incapable of holding against the results of trying to run 13psi.