Got a message on the dash that rear turn signal had failed. There is actually one regular bulb in there among the many led's. It is really hard to tell it is burned out because all the led's still work perfectly. The bulb is special order only (I checked all local and online auto parts shops AND local Saab dealer and amazon.com) so I ordered a couple at 7.40 each from Saab dealer. I remembered our 9-3's had a bulb kit so while I was checking to see if the 9-5 had one (it did not or I couldn't find it) I was shocked to find that there is no spare tire, just a tire repair kit.
Be careful removing the h21W bulb. I was having trouble getting the actual bulb out of the plastic housing and inadvertently split the plastic piece that pulls out of the tail light. I tried to tape it back together but it did not go well. Now I'm stuck with a broken part and am having trouble finding a new one. Hopefully I can figure out how to rig it up to start working again.
It was not easy getting out of the socket, I totally agree. Really, I don't see much reason for the light unless the LED's all went out. Let's hope that doesn't happen. I was more unhappy about not having a spare, but I guess that is the norm now.
when i purchased the vehicle, the salesman explained its an effort to reduce weight. having a spare is pretty damn important so i'm ordering a cheap generic rim with the same tire just in case of emergency. the saab website is selling a spare tire kit but its pricey..sometimes a repair kit wont work on a blown tire. due to the bankruptcy saab roadside doesnt exist. better to have a spare just in case. oh yeah, you'll also need to purchase a lift..
Yep, my driver's side taillight center bulb burned out after just a couple of months. Couldn't find the bulb anywhere. The dealership where I bought it had one, but had to drive an hour one way to get it... no one else had it.
I bought 2 bulbs and only one worked. My dealer was good about it and credited the cost back to me when I was there buying the spare tire kit. So I am happy for the time being. My wife just bought a VW Passat TDI so the Saab is being driven way less now. We will probably migrate toward VW/Audi now that Saab is no longer an option.
I had this same problem - the housing cracked and while the bulb was still good, it kept popping out, resulting in the notification. I've asked the Saab service shop I use locate a replacement but so far no response. I tried to fix the housing with tape, then wire with no luck. Finally, I tried a small zip tie. I closed it as much as I could using pliers, which sure the housing kept its round shape. Inserted a bulb and it held and has held for several months. If you've got a working bulb, this might be the trick to perform a home repair on the housing. Good Luck.
I had the same issue (I cracked the housing when I removed the bulb). The black housing for the bulb (labeled visteon h21W iirc) is #13320956 I am not sure if it is referred to as the rear tail light assembly or considered part of the assembly. When I used that number and called the dealer they were able to order the part and I had it in about 2 days, no shipping (because I was able to pick it up from them). It cost about $22 USD. Hope this helps others.
When trying to remove the bulb from the plastic holder (which you will need to turn to remove), press the bulb IN and turn to release it from the holder. I did crack the assembly and had to use a tiny zip tie to repair- which did work.
My first tail light burn-out so I looked at all the posts. The bulb overheats and melts the plastic after looking at the bulb in housing. The contacts in the housing are heat treated low carbon steel with a plated nickel surface. With time and high current, the base of the bulb sacrificially diminishes and goes high resistance, melting the plastic, effectively disconnecting the bulb. I cleaned between bulb and base and reinstalled confirming the bulb was ok. I replaced with a new bulb and housing. I pulled the left rear assembly out and the housing was ok, replaced the bulb which had very little of the base remaining. This bulb I touched up the base with some fresh solder, restoring back to original. It appears the housing is designed for failure, my opinion, since there is no copper alloys used. By simply plating over the nickel with tin would triple the life of the assembly.
Hoping someone can help me understand this. I'm getting the fast blink, plus console warning about rear left bulb, but it works fine. I started up the car and turned the left turn signal on while watching. It blinked fast, but it did blink.
So, it's not as if the bulb is burnt out, or there's no connection being made. Yet the car still thinks something is broken. Is it worth buying a new bulb, or am I looking at whatever housing issue everyone else has mentioned? So far things seem fine in the housing, but I'm not sure exactly what to look for.
When you turn on your blinker lights the led's will blink as well as the single rear blinker light that is in the plastic socket that melts (the newly designed sockets don't melt). Are you sure that both the led's and that light are working?
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On weekends, I'll install a resistor (not posted here, because waiting for delivery from China this resistor), and I will write in detail, which wire is needed for parallel installation resistor.
I installed 10w lamp with connector ba9s (sawed off one stop on the plinth, as regular slot has other angles stoppers) narva H10 17833 (osram 64113). However, this lamp has a high resistance (~ 14.4 ohms). When heated, the lamp resistance increases (> 15 ohms) and on-board computer generates an error.
Empirically (and reading SAAB WIS) I found that the desired range of resistance lamp is in the range 5 to 15 ohms. All that is above or below this range will be calculated on-board Computer literacy as "the lamp burned" and displays error. Calculations showed that eliminate the error of the burnt bulb, you must set the parallel resistor 13-14 ohms. At the moment in my hands two resistors 6 ohms, which I installed in series with each other and then, in parallel with the lamp. The second option in the process of implementation (13 ohm resistor + LED lamp), as there is still shipping parts from China.
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On the back of the lamp can be seen 2 pins circled in red.
These contacts - (black) and (white-green) wire to which it is necessary to connect a resistor (for a 10 watt lamp - ~ 13-14 ohms).
Resistors can be hidden behind a rag lining, fixing them to the METAL parts of the wing, for FIRE safety.
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By setting resistor (13 Om), you can install any LED / H10W bulb that will not melt the connector housing, and will not generate an error in the onboard computer.
You can pull out the old lamp. You can take a sharp object (thick needle) inside the connector and gently break melted plastic (at a same time, easily turning the bulb on its axis)
Thanks. I'll know
But I installed the LED instead of halogen lamps. In my case without resistor it is impossible to solve a problem. At the same time I solved at once 2 problems - melting and a mistake on the on-board computer of the car.
Just wanted to revive one of these threads about the melting turn signal socket to see what the latest information is.
Currently on eeuroparts.com two versions of the part are available. One branded Saab and one branded Uro. Can anyone confirm which is the newer variety? Here is the link:
I used the Saab part and it ended up melting anyway. I have since tried the Uro but it has only been about 6 months. No telling if it will work permanently.....
I think I'll buy one of each and put them on different sides and see what happens. Hardly enough to constitute a scientific experiment, but it'll be interesting anyway.
I just changed mine left turn signal lamp in a Volvo dealer in Boston. The lamp was burnt and the socket was melt. They charged me $90 for the whole job. But the lamp burnt again in 2 month, and they give me a new one under warranty. And again in 2 weeks, I called them to make appointment but instead of give me another bulb they suggested me to replace the whole tail light assembly which is almost $500 including parts and labor. I decide to do it myself after reading the posts here. And finally, it's just because the lamp is not inserted deep enough to the socket.
To be honest, the lamp is easy to replace, just be careful when you turn out the socket.
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