Thought i would bring this over here too


i finally have everything ready to do the swap.. and ready to show everyone what the next step im taking is
i should be underway this week (that means my TD04 will be up for sale)
all i will need then is to wait for the tune and w/m kit
yay unnecessary amount of power!!

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/CIMG8302.jpg

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/CIMG8303.jpg

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/CIMG8306.jpg

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/CIMG8308.jpg

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/CIMG8304.jpg

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/CIMG8309.jpg

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/CIMG8305.jpg

Looks freakin sweet! What A/r are your running on the hot side, is it the .64 or .86? Looks like a smaller housing than I'm used to seeing on a 3076...
Best of luck and keep us posted!!!
-Cm

it a .86
so a lil slower spooling just to make it a lil more drivable as a daily

and its in!
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/DSC05086.jpg

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/DSC05087.jpg

Congrats man! From a boosted 2.3NA to a GT30 build, you do some great work. Now tune her and give use a cool video. You're on ECU project right? Theres already a tune for pretty much your setup in the library; I assume you have a Walbro 225...

ya im a member on there... though i had JZW do the tune on this one... and its on the way!

Ballin'! How much power are you looking to make? Stock block?

we'll see the power output... should be in the ballpark of 400whp
forged pistons and uprated valve springs

Should be more than that....why'd you uprate the pistons? You do not have the turbo to blow 'em out! OE internals are wicked strong!
-Cm

oh i know... but why not have the engine ready for the 500whp mark by only having to throw in a set of cams now ;)

drool.... :o

drool.... :o
haha now i know how it feels for ppl to admire my build
ive always been the one to be admiring others

Congrats man! From a boosted 2.3NA to a GT30 build, you do some great work.
the math shows over 330% hp increase from when it was stock

Very nice, looks like quality
Is the 5 speed going to be able to handle it :o

How have you done the intake for the turbo?

When we did saabi900's GT3076r install that was the only issue.

its an issue for me too. im just not ready to worry about yet :P

What A/R compressor housing does yours have?

Air con removed and a bit grinding.........

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l245/martin_9-5t/19072010597.jpg

.86
so a lil slower spool and even less room than a .64

That's the exhuast side.

The intake side.......

maybe if i read what you ask and not assume by picking out words from what you said

its a A/R 70 ?? i think... i can confirm next time im by my car (in the shop where it is being safely watched by the security cameras), for now i am on my way home

It'll be 70 or 50. We fitted a 70, tight squeeze.

its a 70


ECU just came in the mail!!!
THANKS JOHN!
now i have to wait till tomorrow to start it cuz of a seminar going on in the shop

i got a lil anxious this morning and started up my car before grabbing the camera

http://youtu.be/vpqumx0WuaQ

NICE! ;ol;

looking good, i love build threads;ol;

is your idle high or the gauge not working properly? looks sweet.

i had the throttle held up high... i wasnt trying to let it idle

gotcha.

can i make a suggestion?

get a slim fan get rid of that hideous factory fan. and ull have 100times the room.

oh and how did u go about getting ahold of john ive emailed him few times on his site i need a flash for my hx35 and seimen 60lbers

the slim fan is to come as soon as i get back from carlisle
i email him... and get responses usually the same day

can i make a suggestion?

get a slim fan get rid of that hideous factory fan. and ull have 100times the room.

oh and how did u go about getting ahold of john ive emailed him few times on his site i need a flash for my hx35 and seimen 60lbers

The real squeeze is between the turbo intake elbow and the AC bracket. The front clearance doesn't really matter much.

i custom modified mine. chopped a majority off as when the hx35 gets mounted im going to have a 4inch intake pipe :D i thought about making a bracket with some square tube and a piece of plate steel

custom downpipe with high flow cat
OBX 23.5" straight flow resonator
Vibrant straightflow muffler (1149)

YouTube -Saab Ng900 3" turbo back custom

;ol; sweet

let me buy your car please. thanks.;ol;

let me buy your car please. thanks.;ol;
sure; cash, paypal, or check (must clear first)
whenever you're ready

im actually going to be looking for a car in september. If i find one im going to sell mine to my dad. Keep in touch!

very nice. i think i may be going tranny hunting tommorow.;ol;

very nice. i think i may be going tranny hunting tommorow.;ol;
that's something to be proud of ;)
lol just let me know if you find me a trans and how much
ill be out of the country till the end of the month (leaving monday)

i did a lil vid of the drive to work and played around just a lil

YouTube - Saab Ng900 small drive

You'll have to get some 60-100 times and 70-120 times.

once i get back from over seas at the end of the month and ill be able to get to things like that

the amazing thing is in the vid im not completely flooring it in third and its picking up pretty damn well

i cant wait to get back so i can finish the fine tuning and really open this pig up on the highway against some unsuspecting vette or posrche

‪tunel shot with the saab and the "CKF" exhaust and gt30‬‏ - YouTube

so i just picked up a set of '97 front strut assemblies
that way i can upgrade my brakes to ones from an Aero
only cost me $65 per side with calipers, nearly new rotors and new pads

sounds great. take pics when u do brake upgrade

;ol;



stock brakes must be a little scary

;ol;



stock breaks must be a little scary

Stock brakes definitely are scary o.O I hate being cheap.

they work just fine unless i have to do some heavy braking

Stock brakes definitely are scary o.O I hate being cheap.
at least you already have a '97. all you need are the pads, carriers and rotors off an Aero/Viggen
i, on the other hand, had to buy the front struts

ok havent updated this thread in a long while so here goes...
ill update on everything that has happened in the past few months

so this happened one fine afternoon in October
i was driving (in a spirited manner) to go get lunch with my cousin
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/IMG_0138.jpg

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/IMG_0139.jpg

then last month i pulled into my driveway, stopped and waited for the garage door to open, then tried to put the car back into gear i found out i had no gears period
selector rod that comes out of the trans came loose from the rest of the trans internals
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/IMG_0018.jpg
(there's a black UFO in this pic)
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/IMG_0019.jpg

i got one of my spare ng900 trans out of storage and i opened it up and made sure that same bolt was nice and tight and thread locked
put it back together and replaced 5th with a later 9-3 5th

i can cruise at ~85mph and be right @ 3k rpms
vs my n/a trans that came out that was ~72mph @ 3k rpms

and just last week i picked this up because i couldnt let the deal pass me
dont really need it, but wanted it
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/IMG_0084187.jpg

Horray for destroying parts with high horsepower!!!!!!!

Love the Prancing Moose as well, have that on both of the cars :-)

What kind of turbo is that, other than one the size of your laptop?

Don't you just hate the brake lights when it's play time?

Horray for destroying parts with high horsepower!!!!!!!

Love the Prancing Moose as well, have that on both of the cars :-)

What kind of turbo is that, other than one the size of your laptop?
a gt3076, same size as whats in my car

a gt3076, same size as whats in my car


You planning on doing a turbo for cylinders 1 and 4 and a second turbo for cylinders 2 and 3 or are you planning on not changing your oil? ;)

lol nothing wrong with the gt30 in my car... i do oil changes every 3k miles
i just got the turbo for literally dirt cheap, im after the antisurge housing and the bend welded to the end will help with fitment

would be pretty intense to have twin gt3076s

lol nothing wrong with the gt30 in my car... i do oil changes every 3k miles
i just got the turbo for literally dirt cheap, im after the antisurge housing and the bend welded to the end will help with fitment

would be pretty intense to have twin gt3076s

Fitment is important when you mount it on the bottom, lol does leave you with plenty of room for one up top ;ol;

lol to fit two gt30 would be insanity on a 4cyl

I guess you sold your TD04? DAVE

I guess you sold your TD04? DAVE
nope.. its sitting in my toolbox

what the specs on the td04 your selling ?

td04 15t 5cm^2
with a modded exhaust housing for a vband downpipe connection

Did you get any 60-100 and 70-120 times yet ?

sorry still no xx-xxx times

engine is coming out next week... gonna have the block o-ring to get the HG issue resolved

I could see Two TD04's over two GT30's
Td04 = fast
gt30 = nothing then rocket ship

ya well at the moment it's just sitting at the shop, so no rocket ship

I could see Two TD04's over two GT30's
Td04 = fast
gt30 = nothing then rocket ship

Td04 = out of breath @ 5k
GT30 = downshift because race car

when does boost start kicking in for you?

downshift is right on the GT3076
but once you do you can take it all the way to the rev limit (7.5k) without loss of breath

well im my case it blows a lil more than the headgasket can handle

when does boost start kicking in for you?

downshift is right on the GT3076
but once you do you can take it all the way to the rev limit (7.5k) without loss of breath

well im my case it blows a lil more than the headgasket can handle

With my 9k aero cams and the GT3071 it starts building right about 3k and is in the red by 3700. My rev limit is set at 7k and my power drops off a little bit after 6700.

The GTX should build boost a littler earlier and carry it past 7k with the 9k aero cams. Nick is truning the tq down (currently @ 441 to the wheels) so I can have traction in 3rd gear too.

since the car is on downtime with no engine in it
got around to doing this
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/IMG_0116260.jpg

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/IMG_0117261.jpg

Are you running T5 cams on this mate?

yes still on the stock T5 cams.... not enough funds for the big Enem cams

Yeah I fancy some bigger cams next...wouldn't mind trying some 264 or 268's out! I've got the Abbott Racing stage 1 cams fitted atm which are 243 so nothing mad, just trying to gauge how much later these spool and how much extra I get up the top end compared to T5 cams. Had them fitted back with the TD04 which was pointless back then! Seem to work nicely with my 3076 though. I'm hoping the new tubular will shave a few hundred rpm off the spool up but I've got a feeling its gonna go the other way and give more up top :confused:

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/IMG_0122277.jpg

Looks good, I've been debating whether to do this or not. I think I'm going to start with the e=codes and see where those takes me.
Which ones are you using?

ever think about taking it out to Bonneville one day and seeing what it will run? our cars have awesome top speeds stock i could only imagine with a gt30. id like to get mine out there one day when its built to my liking lol. you do awesome work.

in a vert? ill deff pass on that idea

if i had a 3dr with a full cage, harness, seats, suspension... then i might consider it

in a vert? ill deff pass on that idea

if i had a 3dr with a full cage, harness, seats, suspension... then i might consider it

The folks at Bonneville wouldn't consider it unless you had all that stuff.

lol i didnt realize it was a very. that was my fault. i have a 3-dr coupe.

I like your headlights.

I'd like to do that to mine one-day.

howd you do that to ur head lights it's looks sweet, do you have a link for it, or could you just tell me how you did it?

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=189794&highlight=cutting

[QUOTE=grkguy89;2131891][url]

thank you

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=189794&highlight=cutting

since your a mod...you should sticky that here and tsl. im tired of having to search for it to show to people.

since your a mod...you should sticky that here and tsl. im tired of having to search for it to show to people.
done!!

a little teaser since i got a couple of tires

http://www.saablink.net/forum/attachments/customizing-your-ng900-old-9-3/8550d1328211773-img_0131303-jpg

update!

got everything back from the machine shop finally!

I had everything balanced out on the engine.
Crank, pistons, crank pulley, and flywheel were very good to begin with

The rods on the other hand, were horrible
15gram difference between the lightest and heaviest rod!!!!!

here are some pics:

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/CIMG8416.jpg

O-ring groove on the block
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/CIMG8417.jpg

91mm pistons from Wossner
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/CIMG8415.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/CIMG8413.jpg

and a pic of the crank next to the pistons
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/CIMG8412.jpg

Looks good brah,

She should hold together this time.

Interesting how they o-ringed each bore as opposed to the entire block. I'm assuming the head has matching grooves? You should be able to throw all kinds of wild boost at her ;ol;

update!

got everything back from the machine shop finally!

I had everything balanced out on the engine.
Crank, pistons, crank pulley, and flywheel were very good to begin with

The rods on the other hand, were horrible
15gram difference between the lightest and heaviest rod!!!!!

here are some pics:
...


Unfortunately there's no emoticon here for "drool".

WHat bearings are you using also what head gasket? LOOKIN GOOD DAVE

@ pontius:
no groove on the cylinder head

@ smut:
standard bearings and factory head gasket.

What injecters are you using ? THANKS DAVE

Unfortunately there's no emoticon here for "drool".

Yeah, I 2nd that. We need some more emoticons added.

What injecters are you using ? THANKS DAVE
deka #60

IM collecting all my parts for the build .

I found seimens deka 60 lb. ev1 injecters ,are these the ones that are right for our cars .[T5]

What suspension/brakes mods have you done mate? I've got a few things coming this month so hopefully that'll make it better...is no where near as bad as expected but defo room for improvement!

I was going to go for BIG power this year with a Holset Super40 on my new vert but decided against it & now going for a more modest 350ish bhp with a Hybrid TD04! Have sold my 3076 onto a friend....so he'll be having some fun!! Was insanely fast above 100mph that thing!!!

other than lowering it... havent done much else
brakes are on standby till i put the car back together (gonna do the 9-5 aero upgrade)

why would you use a stock head gasket

it's the only thing that works and holds up... unless i spend some ridiculous money to have one custom made

it's the only thing that works and holds up... unless i spend some ridiculous money to have one custom made

didnt you blow the HG with this set up a few months ago. it would be a shame if it happened again. 100+whp per cylinder thats pretty stressful idk if it can hold up.

Looks like you got some ridiculous money into it already lol it must be pretty quick.

Double o-ring and copper HG next time ;ol;

that's why i O-ringed the block
and cometic head gaskets are horrible on our Saabs

that's why i O-ringed the block
and cometic head gaskets are horrible on our Saabs

cometic??

cometic = "high performance" head gaskets; usually copper

cometic seems to be MLS

and it looks like most people with their saabs that had bad luck with the copper didnt o ring.

so at least you have the block o ringed. hopefully stock can hold up for you

But i dont see how stock will be stronger than double o ring and copper (unless you butcher the install)

are you using head studs too

yes i am using studs.
stock gasket with O-ringed block has shown to hold up to over 700hp

well than that should work. whats your target power when all said and done

copper gasket with double o ringed has showed to hold 7000hp..just sayin lol

i meant on Saabs specifically.

shooting for over 400whp. we'll see

yes getting the power to the ground is always the fun part

even with fwd, do you have much flex with your vert

vert = flex
6-point i made helps a good amount, but would really need the sellholm arms, lsd, and more bracing
im not tracking the car, so im not worried too much about it
its gonna be more of a dyno queen car than a race car

engine is finally together
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/CIMG8420.jpg

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/CIMG8422.jpg

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/CIMG8423.jpg

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/CIMG8425.jpg

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/CIMG8427.jpg

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/CIMG8428.jpg

Looks great,whens it going in the car?

hopefully it will be back in the car this week

looks great!

when are you driving to wisconsin so I can see this beast?

Have you worked out some way to run an air filter yet?

I'm curious why you were having head gasket troubles? Can't these handle 420 crank HP with a basically stock long block? (long block meaning complete motor, not the style) Was it just an old HG? Or was there warping somewhere? Are you running a higher compression ratio?


Cometic is actually a good head gasket for high HP applications, but can't be used with your O-ring anyways. Wondering if guys that were having issues with them were installing wrong or had warping.

Can't these handle 420 crank HP with a basically stock long block? .
Newer popped a gasket out of my hobby car, so yes they can handle 700chp. Nothing special has been done to surfaces.

Newer popped a gasket out of my hobby car, so yes they can handle 700chp. Nothing special has been done to surfaces.

Is everything forged from the factory on the T5 cars? Can you break down what alloys are used with the crank, pistons, and connecting rods?

Is everything forged from the factory on the T5 cars? Can you break down what alloys are used with the crank, pistons, and connecting rods?
Nothing is "forged" from the factory as far as I know.

headache to the core....

So your post on Saablink....chin up, you'll get it right!!

@grkguy

Where did you get your mesh screen filter for the compressor intake?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-4-5-Screen-Filter-Paxton-Novi2000-turbo-camaro-/250690478332?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a5e5120fc&vxp=mtr

but honestly you can go to lowes/homedepot and buy a small sheet of window screen and then go to the air duct section and get the rest of whats in the ebay listing

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-4-5-Screen-Filter-Paxton-Novi2000-turbo-camaro-/250690478332?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a5e5120fc&vxp=mtr

but honestly you can go to lowes/homedepot and buy a small sheet of window screen and then go to the air duct section and get the rest of whats in the ebay listing

Thanks man. May well be trying this out.

So I'm curious, no air filter, just the mesh??

i got a diff compressor housing so thing might be different this time around

It's Alive!!!!!!!!

Congrats!

Hey grkguy... slightly OT, but it comes up in this thread... as a moderator, do you think that you might be able to impose on the site managers to change the date format from DD-MM-YYYY to DD-mmm-YYYY? It would still be international and it would be much easier on the brains of those in the USA.

I understand the turbo is a tight fit, but why in the world would you risk running a mesh instead of an air filter? Aren't you worried about the valves? Seems like an awful expensive mistake.

I understand the turbo is a tight fit, but why in the world would you risk running a mesh instead of an air filter? Aren't you worried about the valves? Seems like an awful expensive mistake.

There are plenty of cars out there running compressor wheel faced forwad through a cutout in the front bumper without anything on it at all to protect from anything going in...

so to have it mounted the way he has his with a piece of mesh over it is still way safer than that...

I understand the turbo is a tight fit, but why in the world would you risk running a mesh instead of an air filter? Aren't you worried about the valves? Seems like an awful expensive mistake.
Along with the mesh screen, I now have a couple of layers of cotton filter from an old cone filter I had no use for anymore

There are plenty of cars out there running compressor wheel faced forwad through a cutout in the front bumper without anything on it at all to protect from anything going in...

so to have it mounted the way he has his with a piece of mesh over it is still way safer than that...
I had/have the same thoughts.

There are plenty of cars out there running compressor wheel faced forwad through a cutout in the front bumper without anything on it at all to protect from anything going in...

so to have it mounted the way he has his with a piece of mesh over it is still way safer than that...

Those cars that run front facing are race only and constantly rebuild the engine along with other stuff like the turbo at least once a season and probably see less mileage in an entire season than you or I do in a day. When was the last time you saw an NA car run no filter? All it takes is debris from the road and the impeller is junk, not to mention all the dirt that is sticking to a filter after 7k miles has now been passed through the engine, meaning potential damage to valves, piston rings and walls, etc. I know guys "do it", but I don't agree it's safe and shouldn't be described as such, ESPECIALLY in a daily driver.

Those cars that run front facing are race only and constantly rebuild the engine along with other stuff like the turbo at least once a season and probably see less mileage in an entire season than you or I do in a day.

this looks like a total race car that gets a new engine once a week.

http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/z/chris_mccarty/chris_mccarty.htm

this looks like a total race car that gets a new engine once a week.

http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/z/chris_mccarty/chris_mccarty.htm


Agreed emery puts new motors in, but weekly no way... his shop is right in my area... his cars are fast as **** too... so is his girlfriends car... thats what endless resources will get you...

Agreed emery puts new motors in, but weekly no way... his shop is right in my area... his cars are fast as **** too... so is his girlfriends car... thats what endless resources will get you...

See the problem i have with that car is..... well i don't really have a problem.

Nice to see you got your car up and running. ;ol;

Agreed emery puts new motors in, but weekly no way... his shop is right in my area... his cars are fast as **** too... so is his girlfriends car... thats what endless resources will get you...

thats not emery's car, thats a daily driven customer car. that being said, david buschur just posted a tear down video of the motor out of emery's "ricer" thats runs 8's with no filter forward facing, and it looks basically brand new.

Just got the Enem 268* cams installed and running right (after fighting it for 4 days)
Running nice and smooth.
we'll see how the power delivery is later today

What where you fighting with ?

lining up the marks on these cams gives for a very rough idle/no idle
so the valve overlap needs to be adjusted between the two cams (timing them)

How did you adjust them?

Did you install the GS Adjustable cam gear? http://www.genuinesaab.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=56_73&products_id=783.

so i got my charge pipe back with the new flange on it.

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/DSC05164.jpg

here's how big the new BOV is on the charge pipe

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/DSC05165.jpg

You do some really good stuff! And I dont justmean with your car.DAVE<

How did you adjust them?

Did you install the GS Adjustable cam gear? http://www.genuinesaab.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=56_73&products_id=783.
Don't mind me , I'm just quoting myself. :lol:.

Sooooo..........

Don't mind me , I'm just quoting myself. :lol:.

Sooooo..........
oh ya sorry.
the alignment pins inside the cam sprocket were grinded out that way i could adjust the degreeing of the cams
i set the engine to true TDC, crack loose the cam sprockets, then adjust each cam using a dial indicator, and then i hold each cam while i tighten and lock the cam sprockets.
(pretty bland description sorry)

oh ya sorry.
the alignment pins inside the cam sprocket were grinded out that way i could adjust the degreeing of the cams
i set the engine to true TDC, crack loose the cam sprockets, then adjust each cam using a dial indicator, and then i hold each cam while i tighten and lock the cam sprockets.
(pretty bland description sorry)
Not bland at all. That's what I was looking for.

Out of curiosity, Would the GS adjustable cam sprockets do the same thing?
Is that what they are for ?

Not bland at all. That's what I was looking for.

Out of curiosity, Would the GS adjustable cam sprockets do the same thing?
Is that what they are for ?

That's what adjustable cam sprockets are for. Usually they'll have reference lines so you have some idea where it is in relation to where it was (to simplify the answer here), similar to when you could manually adjust timing on cars with a distributor and they had a marker and lines on the crank pulley so you'd know how many degrees of advance/retard you were at.

Probably not worth it for stock cams unless you are really anal about the way the engine was running. But it does allow you to adjust overlap and if done correctly can sometimes improve how the turbo spools. I suggest reading a book or two on how to degree a cam before even considering them as it's an easy way to destroy a motor if you don't know what you're doing. And cams that are too big can and will hurt low-end, lousy idle quality, big impact on emissions to the point it won't pass the sniffer test anymore.

When I did a 351W swap into a 4 cylinder Mustang body, I kept the cam small-ish and it'd actually pass our emissions test back in the late 90's with nothing but dual catalytic converters. (Actually both Mustangs I had were 4 bangers from the factory and had V8's stuck in them and I could get both to pass the e check as the cams were 6000 rpm or less) Had it had a midrange-high rpm cam it would of had issues.

I'm thinking about throwing some cams at mine :cheesy:

I'm thinking about throwing some cams at mine :cheesy:

You can call someone like Comp Cams (Google Summit Racing, look at the companies they have that sell cams and contact some of them as they're as reputable as you're gonna get) and over the phone they'll ask all the upgrades you have, curb weight, trans, gear ratio, operating RPM, etc. and they'll come up with duration, lobe separation, etc. that's inline with your goals. DEFINITELY go with custom grinds to get the most out of it and work the best with your turbo ;)

Personally, I'd find a cam that maximizes mid range with strong low end. The turbo will take over on the top end. If you go with top end and mid range, it might actually slow the car until your moving a bit. If I were you, I'd get that 4.45 gear set from GS before messing with the cams. That should help make the car noticeably faster.

I did 3.73's in a Mustang and it was friggin nice. Then I decided to go with 4.10's and it was night and day difference. So I'm guessing 4.45's over the stock 4.05? should make your car scoot a bit quicker :cheesy:

If/when I have a couple grand set aside to dedicate to my 9-3, it'll be one of the 1st things to get stuffed into a new trans :D

:D
having some company custom make you cams will exceed the price of the cams that are already available
throwing the 4.45 final drive in compromises the daily drivability
highway rpms go up and fuel economy goes down
thats why i moved away from my N/A trans because my car spends most of its time at speeds greater than 60mph

having some company custom make you cams will exceed the price of the cams that are already available
throwing the 4.45 final drive in compromises the daily drivability
highway rpms go up and fuel economy goes down
thats why i moved away from my N/A trans because my car spends most of its time at speeds greater than 60mph

increasing gearing being detrimental to mpg is actually a misnomer.

(this article has lost its pics/charts but you get the point)

Lets examine what really happens when you change the gearing.

The following table is the injector duty cycle for a stock GSR. Lets say you are cruising at 4000rpms and are in the fourth load column (from previous datalogging I am generally in the fourth column on a flat highway). Notice that the duty cycle here is 15%

Now lets change the gear ratio so that at the same vehicle speed and same stretch of road, the engine speed increases 1000rpms. If the only thing that changed was engine speed, then yes, fuel economy will suffer, injector duty cycle in the same column increases by 4%...However, when you change your gearing, it takes less throttle effort to maintain speed. So lets take a look at 5000rpms in the previous load column; 14%. Now the engine is using less fuel!

http://www.itrspec.com/PICS/Misc/NoVTECDutyCycle.jpg


From personal experience, my fuel economy increased when I switched from the 4.40 final drive, to the ATS 4.929, by roughly 20-25 miles per tank.

Common sense would confirm this as well. How would your fuel economy compare if you were going 30mph up a slight incline in 5th gear versus 3rd gear? Third gear would have drastically higher RPM's, but would require much less throttle input, and the result would be that 3rd gear will offer considerably better gas mileage.

Now there are exceptions to every rule and driving habits play the biggest role in fuel economy, but holding everything constant, simply changing gearing to a shorter gearset will only increase fuel efficiency. Conversely, there are limits to how much gearing is too much. I'm not saying you should cruise around at 8000rpms all day, but the relatively small change from gearing (~500-1000rpms, depending on how big of a change) will not detrimentally affect your gas mileage.

to get the best mileage apply the least amount of tq necessary to do the work, and make less work (at the throttle, and with less friction at lower rpm).

torque multiplication lessens work by the motor.

increasing gearing being detrimental to mpg is actually a misnomer.

(this article has lost its pics/charts but you get the point)

You're right.
But the gearing I have now, for the driving I do, has given me the best fuel economy...
With my current trans in 5th at 3k I'm cruising at 86mph
With my N/A trans in 5th at 3k i was cruising at somewhere between 70-72mph
I averaged 20mpg with the N/A trans vs 26mpg with my current trans
No difference in hardware (have not checked it with the current enem cams yet)

+1 ^

If you pick a highway crusing speed, you will almost always be getting better MPG at the lowest RPM's you can find in 5th gear.

Whether or not certain gears give you better MPG overall probably depends on your complete driving mix. I'm thinking that if you head back towards the city that the higher gears might work out better.

You're right.
But the gearing I have now, for the driving I do, has given me the best fuel economy...
With my current trans in 5th at 3k I'm cruising at 86mph
With my N/A trans in 5th at 3k i was cruising at somewhere between 70-72mph
I averaged 20mpg with the N/A trans vs 26mpg with my current trans
No difference in hardware (have not checked it with the current enem cams yet)

are you going by the SID or calculating by hand?

are you going by the SID or calculating by hand?
lmao if i calculated by the SID i would be getting +75mpg
I do it by hand
I usually put 10gal of fuel once the light turns on
reset my trip
then shoot to get at least 250mi on my trip gauge (which I usually do get that or more)

Just checking lol.

You could also add timing at your cruise loads until the vac levels start to drop. I picked up about 1-1.5mpg on the evo with like 3 degrees.

Just checking lol.

You could also add timing at your cruise loads until the vac levels start to drop. I picked up about 1-1.5mpg on the evo with like 3 degrees.

This. My timing is way up on that little block from something like 2100rpm to 2800rpm and between certain values of vacuum. I didn't measure the difference but I'm sure it contributed to my better gas mileage.

Still impressed by the mileage I got on the Focus I rented though :o Can't stop thinking about it.

having some company custom make you cams will exceed the price of the cams that are already available
throwing the 4.45 final drive in compromises the daily drivability
highway rpms go up and fuel economy goes down
thats why i moved away from my N/A trans because my car spends most of its time at speeds greater than 60mph :confused:

Sorry, the comment was in response to Bogan wanting cams. Off the shelf cams can be nice if the car is close to the test engine used (or software used if that's how they do it) to come up with their values, but if you have the cash go custom as they'll match a given set up better, possibly improving MPG, better performance, stable idle, and decent drivability if you don't go hog wild; meaning street cams over race cams. With bigger turbos that are a little slower to spool up, with gearing and proper cams you can get into your power band quicker and have a mean car from a stop.

Also, when I was looking at a custom cam for my last Mustang, it wasn't that much more than the off the shelf ones. Granted you need 2 cams made up for our DOHC engine, but it can be worth it rather than getting cams you might not like ;ol;


EDIT @Grkguy What was difference between the 2 trans you have/had? Was it just the final ratio or the actual gearing of each gear that was different? Sometimes it's possible to run a steep (4.45 for example) final and have a wider 5th gear ratio to keep 5th at lower rpms but 1-4th numerically steeper to improve performance. Something to consider.

just a small pic update of whats going on right now
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/IMG_0194.jpg

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/IMG_0199.jpg

gt17 vs. gt30
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/IMG_0197.jpg

gt17 vs. gt3076r (what just came out) vs. hx35 (what's going in)
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/IMG_0200.jpgwell here's the update on my car

here's a quick mock-up shot
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/IMG_02021783.jpg

i got the new turbine housing so the turbo doesn't sit as high

here's a quick mock-up shot
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/IMG_02021783.jpg

i got the new turbine housing so the turbo doesn't sit as high

does the hood even shut? :o

Yeah, that's gotta be the biggest turbo I've seen on a Saab, like a Guinness World Record or something :)

ur nuts!

I like it ;ol;

ur nuts!

I like it ;ol;


You like his nuts?

lets see the manifold.

You like his nuts?

I believe you need to use the Mel Brooks line for that:

"That man's nuts - grab 'em!"

Yeah, that's gotta be the biggest turbo I've seen on a Saab, like a Guinness World Record or something :)
lol not quite the largest
there are a few more serious guys with larger turbos (JZW has a super HX40)
though i may have the largest top mount

lets see the manifold.
just a T3 9k manifold with an up-pipe
in due time i will get a pic up
im still in the building stage

I believe you need to use the Mel Brooks line for that:

"That man's nuts - grab 'em!"

rofl :lol:

here's a test fit with the up-pipe tacked up... it was a lil close to the head in this pic, so i changed the angle a lil and now it sits much nicer

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/IMG_02061889.jpg

now im in the process of bracing the turbo so the whole weight isnt being supported by just the up-pipe

why a top mount? any benefits to it?

need a special manifold to fit it underneath

plus the top mount looks cool

Thats looking sick!

whats the diameter of the tubing?

whats the diameter of the tubing?
for the up-pipe?
2.5"

meh, i think your not gonna love that manifold setup...that has the possibility to seriously botch the transient response and spool.

see i was thinking the same at first, but with the new smaller turbine housing i think it will be fine

update
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/DSC05187.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/grkguy89/DSC05188.jpg

damn thats nice man!!!!

I love it! ;ol;

You worried about the excess heat radiating into the valve cover? Couldn't that increase the likely hood of oil coking?

dp is not wrapped and i have a turbo blanket on the way to help with keeping the heat in check