"My Wifes" 1991 T16 Vert Restoration [Archive] - SaabCentral Forums

: "My Wifes" 1991 T16 Vert Restoration


Pages : [1] 2

B202NUT
11-02-11, 08:31 PM
Here she is; I bought this car with the intention of passing it onto my wife once the car is road worthy. Purchased this for $360 and brought it home last weekend (2/4/2011). When my wife first glanced the car she was dead set against having anything to do with it. I decided to buy the car and bring it home. Now I am at the "well, if you cna fix it up nicely to the point where I like it, I'll drive it BUT it's not my car (we'll see about that ).

I expect when the car is all cleaned up I will be posting a much more favorable post but nonetheless we have a nice Vert with lots of potential (from what I have inspected) in the house and that was my intention.

Car's History

I am the 3rd owner of this 91 Turbo Vert with an auto box. It is believed to be a special edition car as had Tupperware from stock and the SPG wheels. Through research I learned six hundred and some odd of these cars were imported into the US in 1991; about three hundred and some of the Monte Carlo yellow verts and these Edwardian greys. It is believed one of each car was issued to each US dealer as a spec type car.

I have nothing other than an internet search to support that as fact so I take it with a grain of salt. I do know the PO said the car came as is from the dealer in 1991.

The PO bought the car in 1996 for $5,000 from her sister in law as a result of a divorce settlement and she has owned the car ever since. She purchased a Ford Mustang about 2 years ago and parked the vert. Her son drove the car and apparently the alternator was bad and the batteries were dying frequently. On one occasion he attempted to change the battery and crossed the terminals; the car wouldn't start and there it sat for the next year or so until I recently purchased it for $360., leads me to expect the box has not been harmed in anyway that would be of concern the fact that the car was previously owned by a woman that I have come to know as pretty laid back. I cant see her hammering the car in her time with it. When I pulled the dipstick the fluid is still purplish in color and appears clean ( I wil know better once I get the car started and warm.)

I hope to dispell the auto box woes and have a fine cruiser.

What I like best about this car is the body is plum, not one single ding or dent anywhere, and every single engine gadget and goodie is intact. I realized how many bits were missing from my 900 S. All I need to do is sand down the pealing clearcoat, scuff the remaing paint and get a respray and clearcoat job. I should be able to do the prep and get a decent Maaco paint job :) ...


Intended Mods

Since the initial intention is to have the wife driving this car primarily, I intend to keep things simple and clean. Restoring the car to original appearance is the goal, with a few improvements. Overall this car has all the bells and whistles so crisping is about all she needs.

Here is what was delivered from eeuroparts today for the tune up :)


New Coolant Hoses
New coolant BP valve
New Plugs, Distr, and Distr Rotor.
VC gasket
Tranny Filter & gasket
New Belts
Intake Man gasket
All new Vacuum lines
New ALT (purchased localy from Napa)
Air filter & Oil filter
Front and back water pump gaskets
New NTC
Initial investment so far after purchase is $450 for all the above; a garage would charge $1,000 or more to perform all those repairs; AND THEY DONT CLEAN ENGINES! Owning the 900 S and molesting it for the past 18 months, IMHO has prepared me pretty well to take on the advenure with the turbo.

Interior Mods


Replace front seat skins
Restore rear seats and door panel leather skins
Wood Dash and glove box
Media center (CD,Wireless Bluetooth, Navigation)
Remove stock alarm
carpet
Overall cleaning
Exterior Mods


New ragtop
clean up spoilers
paint car
respray SPG wheels, Panels
New Tires
Interior and exterior mods are the overalls; however, at this point the tune up and getting the car running is clearly the first task at hand. O put my battery in the car and cranked it in the PO's drive way; however, when I acknowledged the fuel leak I stopped everything. I current have 5/16 8mm barbed Mender to repair the fuel line breach tomorrow afternoon after work. A friend of mines just helped me push the car in the garage tonight so now I can work on it anytime.

I have everything off the car on the driver side of the engine (RHD).


Manifold
Coolant lines
AIC
TB
The bad ALT (the lad fried both positive wire to the started and the ground to the chassis. Even the bushings were seared quite well.)
Air filter housing
Stock IC and pipes.
I will post pics of the engine as I bought it prior to doing the tune up this weekend.

Watch out for more updates:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/91Vert-1.jpg?t=1297471850

B202NUT
12-02-11, 07:51 AM
If anyone has any tuning suggestions regarding these autobox animals that you would suggest I give attention at this time, I would greatly appreciate any tips.

B202NUT
25-02-11, 12:54 AM
Currently performing the 30,000 mile service on page 110-4 of the bentley. Will post pics of the engine all cleaned up and running (hopefully) this weekend.

B202NUT
27-02-11, 10:10 PM
I wanted to post an update of the engine bay. For me the engine has to be clean. This car had 20 years of dirt, sut, oil, grase and grime. It took me 3 weeks. I took everything down to the block, purchased all the necessary major service repair items and started my venture. I am almost done. I turned every bolt, cleaned every creviss, and painted every part with one key aspect in mind "my wife, child, nieces and nephews will be in this car daily." With that said this is where I am now. I could not see anything in the engine but crap when I started. it looks almost like a new car now:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/engine5-1.jpg?t=1298861997

The stock IC was black and saturated in oil on both sides; I pressure washed it and painted it;

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/engine4-1-1.jpg?t=1298862396


http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/engine3-1.jpg?t=1298862574

B202NUT
27-02-11, 10:16 PM
I wrapped the exhaust elbow with heat wrap to further help protect the battery. It was laying around in the garage and I decided to use it. I will add, owning the N/A for the pasrt 16 months well prepared me for the turbo tune up. This engine is far more sophisticated than the N/A. The turbo is a different beast and I am ready to crank the engine. Still gotta repair the fuel line breach and then I can start it for the 1st time

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/engine2-1.jpg?t=1298862816

domer94
27-02-11, 10:58 PM
really nice work;ol; i have the same thing in mind , but probably wont tear down as much. hope i can get e decent result. what engine cleaner / degreaser did you use?

B202NUT
27-02-11, 11:03 PM
really nice work;ol; i have the same thing in mind , but probably wont tear down as much. hope i can get e decent result. what engine cleaner / degreaser did you use?

I used some concentrated stuff from the dollar store; most of the work was in the elbow:D..

thanks for dropping in...

the split loom sells for .20 per foot. I covered everyting in the engine with it. PB blaster cleaned all the rusty nuts and connectors. All the hose clamps were soaked in degreaser and cleaned 1 by 1 (pain!!!) prior to that you could not tell them from the hose. I exagerate the clean, I am dirtaphobic when it comes to my cars.

B202NUT
27-02-11, 11:21 PM
The wife required a well sorted interior; I ordered both driver and passenger set of these from a fine chap on ebay for a very generous price for the set:cheesy:: the rear seats in the vert are perfect, just need some leather softner, the fronts are horrendous. I will post a pic. These are like new. I think the guy on ebay restores them regularly as he has several sets in various colors listed for sale. Shiping takes 5-10 days; cant wait! here is a link to several picks http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390267315768&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/8382/dsc09805r.jpg

B202NUT
27-02-11, 11:32 PM
picked these up last week on ebay for 30 bucks. Fairly rare and considering a new custom set is at least $100, these were a fine grab to me. They are very soft, and again almost like new. I have leather magic carpet dye left over from the N/A carpet I did a few weeks ago and the front set will get re-colored. The rear seat is as if no one rarely stepped on them:

http://i.ebayimg.com/18/!CDZyk)gBmk~$(KGrHqF,!hkE0fmTnwPNBNOcor7-mg~~_12.JPG

B202NUT
27-02-11, 11:36 PM
There was a grey leatherette bag the tonneau came in. I am taking nylon straps off the bag and I hope to have enough material to wrap the door cards and handles:lol:///

turbo1992
28-02-11, 05:53 PM
I bought both front covers [Buffalo Grey] from the same seller on eBay. They came in nice shape but I still used plenty of "Leather Honey" on them. Did it in the sun and let it soak in for a good while before I wiped them down.

B202NUT
28-02-11, 09:23 PM
I bought both front covers [Buffalo Grey] from the same seller on eBay. They came in nice shape but I still used plenty of "Leather Honey" on them. Did it in the sun and let it soak in for a good while before I wiped them down.

were you pleased with the condition? I made a deal with him to send him my existing seat covers and he reduced his price. Did he request the same of you?

turbo1992
28-02-11, 10:00 PM
Yes...very good, and no deals for me but I think I paid $190 or so each including shipping.

B202NUT
28-02-11, 10:06 PM
Yes...very good, and no deals for me but I think I paid $190 or so each including shipping.

I paid $285 for both shipped,and agreed to send my old skins back to him. I haggled with him for about 2 weeks..

I have never revitalized leather seats; does the Honey you used make a noticeable difference? How many applications over how long before they come back; or do they evr really come back at all?

The rear seats look very very god but they are kinda hard. How should I approach the task?

KurBads
01-03-11, 01:39 AM
There was a grey leatherette bag the tonneau came in. I am taking nylon straps off the bag and I hope to have enough material to wrap the door cards and handles:lol:///

Don`t.
Keep the bag. It`s an original SAAB item and would be shame to destroy just for the vinyl material. One day you might have a tonneau covers that just need this bag.
Or sell/give it to someone who needs it for the poper purpose.

B202NUT
01-03-11, 09:44 AM
Don`t.
Keep the bag. It`s an original SAAB item and would be shame to destroy just for the vinyl material. One day you might have a tonneau covers that just need this bag.
Or sell/give it to someone who needs it for the poper purpose.


The tonneau cover was already in the bag:cool:.

The bag is just a vinyl bag, no special emblems no saab tags nothing. to me its more useful for the application I have in mind. The color is a perfect match to the tonneau and the interior.I can get a plain old duffle bag to house the tonneau I am sure whatever the car is worth IF it ever gets sold, the bag wont be a value factor. I am happy enough the tonneau cover came with the car; the bag is much easier replaced:).

Its spring time in Florida the tonneau will get plenty use for the next 3 months before the sun gets wicked hot. So I really wont need to stow away until summer and then back out again in the fall and winter.

Thanks for stopping by chap;ol;...

B202NUT
01-03-11, 10:49 PM
So I called the local Saab dealership the PO said she took the car for service. I gave the service manager the VIN# and he indicated they saw the car last in 2006 for 2 tires and an oil change.

He also confirmed anytime a car is in for ANY kind of service they perform the equivalent to a used car inspection, and his records in the computer did not show any issues related to the car other than the services performed; I had one of these on the other line :).

He then asked me "how many miles did you buy the car with?"

I replied, "172,000" and his response was "Holy Cow; in 2006 when the car was in for the oil change and tires it had 166,000 miles. The car has only been driven 8,000 miles in 5 years."

I then was like this on the other line ;

The reason being, is the car has an oil change sticker in the window from one of those jiffy lube places and the suggested oil change mileage printed on the sticker is 172,000 (can you see the punch line:cheesy:).

If I were a detective or coppa I would theorize this car has been sparingly driven with not many, if any issues at all and the PO's story about the crossed battery terminals may very well be true and I just bought alot of car for a fist full of bills!

This positive thought process is derived from extreme paranoia since I haven't started the car yet (I hope I a correct).

Just a bit of info to form this project thread.

Cheers

B202NUT
02-03-11, 10:48 PM
I got the vert all together to day and the ONE part we did not change out (starter);oops: was bad. Getting a new one this weekend.

I had to let the top down manually today and when I pulled the back seat out, the motor was very corroded; so I am sure its seized up inside. Is a new motor the only dure?

When I click the switch to lower the top the relays under the backseat just click; does this indicate bad motor?

mmoe
03-03-11, 12:13 AM
I would also recommend that you don't destroy the tonneau cover bag. If it's the original, you'd have a difficult time finding another one for under $100. Surely you can find a substitute for the material elsewhere and, if nothing else, ebay the original bag. Plus, the bag is designed to fit into the trunk and hooks onto the straps coming out of the sides of the carpet covered plastic false trunk back. The bag is really the best way to keep the covers in good shape so they don't damage themselves. If you place them into their factory bag correctly (the instructions should be printed onto the bag), then all sharp edges are positioned so as not to rub on an exposed surface.

B202NUT
03-03-11, 12:38 AM
I would also recommend that you don't destroy the tonneau cover bag. If it's the original, you'd have a difficult time finding another one for under $100. Surely you can find a substitute for the material elsewhere and, if nothing else, ebay the original bag. Plus, the bag is designed to fit into the trunk and hooks onto the straps coming out of the sides of the carpet covered plastic false trunk back. The bag is really the best way to keep the covers in good shape so they don't damage themselves. If you place them into their factory bag correctly (the instructions should be printed onto the bag), then all sharp edges are positioned so as not to rub on an exposed surface.


yeah after kurbads post I went and had a good look at the bag and realized its not just "a bag". It is in fact the original tonneau bag, with the instructions to install stiched inside;ol;

I put the tonneau on today and even with the crappy paint the car looks smashing! still cannot believe the price we paid. For a kid to get a go-cart:roll::roll:. The tonneau looks like it has never been installed

KurBads
03-03-11, 02:14 AM
yeah after kurbads post I went and had a good look at the bag and realized its not just "a bag". It is in fact the original tonneau bag, with the instructions to install stiched inside;ol;

I put the tonneau on today and even with the crappy paint the car looks smashing! still cannot believe the price we paid. For a kid to get a go-cart:roll::roll:. The tonneau looks like it has never been installed

I`m glad you listened. I would never ever destroy any original (and in functional condition) SAAB item, even more so, the accessory that`s hard & expensive to find.

B202NUT
03-03-11, 09:59 AM
I`m glad you listened. I would never ever destroy any original (and in functional condition) SAAB item, even more so, the accessory that`s hard & expensive to find.


yeah i got over excited when I saw how nice the material and how close to leather it looks, and how well the color matched the cars interior. I forget to recognize i never saw one for sale on ebay (or rarely). Thanks for stepping in and wakiing me up.

B202NUT
06-03-11, 07:05 AM
Ok,

I am trying to fix 2 cars at once and trust me I am taking my time moving between the 2 not to loose my mind; I am ok on patients but not on cash so I need to troubleshoot properly as I cannot afford to throw parts at the car.

This question is for the vert. I did the major tune up and she won’t start. I the removed the starter and had it bench tested at the auto parts store and it was bad. When placed on high voltage tester solenoid was determined bad; not engaging piston to move the little wheel towards the flywheel.

Since the N/A is down I swapped the good Bosch one out and tried the vert again. I manually moved the fly wheel until the timing numbers were at top close before trying to start the car. I tried to crank the engine and it wouldn’t start, but I know the starter is now moving the flywheel as the timing marks were in a different position.

So onto fuel delivery. I tried to jump terminals 27 and 30 in the main fuse box using a switched test line acceding to the Bentley (engine off) and the pump did not run.

I am ready to move onto the relay and I am not sure where it is .

Is it in the passenger side of the engine compartment (LHD) where the ABS relay and fuses are? I ask because when I jumped terminals 87 and 30 in that fuse box I heard a buzzing from the area of the brake master cylinder; however that fuse reads "Pump Relay" on he clear cover of the fuse box.

The Bentley shows the LH Control Unit in the passenger side by the right ankle (LHD) and its relay just above it. Is the LH Control unit relay the same one I tested or is it just above the LH unit INSIDE the vehicle?

I just don't want to remove the knee bolster unnecessarily.

Correct me but there should be no power at the electrical connector at the pump while the vehicle is off correct? This is the whole purpose of the relay, right? To run the pump when the key is turned to the run position?

By the way, on the N/A the pump in the boot is clearly audible upon turning the key to run BEFORE starting the car.

On the vert I get absolutely nothing from back there.............

I haven't completed all the Bentley electrical tests as I got stuck on the relay and I believe I tested the wrong one, and it got late pulling the head from the other car.

Cheers,
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/images/misc/progress.gif

white65
06-03-11, 08:02 AM
The Bentley shows the LH Control Unit in the passenger side by the right ankle (LHD) and its relay just above it. Is the LH Control unit relay the same one I tested or is it just above the LH unit INSIDE the vehicle?


Correct me but there should be no power at the electrical connector at the pump while the vehicle is off correct? This is the whole purpose of the relay, right? To run the pump when the key is turned to the run position?




http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/images/misc/progress.gif



Bently page 234-4 for testing the fuel pump.

Bently page 234-6 testing fuel pump circuit.

Fuel pump relay is above the LH ecu which is behind the right side of the knee bolster. You can try pulling the carpet back from the wheel hump and feel for it but won't be able to see it with the bolster there. I've gotten the ecu out before without removing the bolster so that may be an option for you to get more room to check the relay. Also there is two of the same relays in the bracket above the ecu, I don't recall what the other relay is for.

Right, there should be no power to the pump connector with the ignition off.

B202NUT
06-03-11, 09:55 AM
Bently page 234-4 for testing the fuel pump.

Bently page 234-6 testing fuel pump circuit.

Fuel pump relay is above the LH ecu which is behind the right side of the knee bolster. You can try pulling the carpet back from the wheel hump and feel for it but won't be able to see it with the bolster there. I've gotten the ecu out before without removing the bolster so that may be an option for you to get more room to check the relay. Also there is two of the same relays in the bracket above the ecu, I don't recall what the other relay is for.

Right, there should be no power to the pump connector with the ignition off.

I think that is where I am in the book (its in the garage with the car). I am about to have breakfast and get back at it. Thanks.

B202NUT
07-03-11, 02:57 PM
Verts currently at the Indy Shop; Guy called me and explained what I already did; all fuel and ignition tests are good, so they are on to fuel pressure test.

Seems like I am not an idiot afterall; everything i did they did and still no start. The owner assured me they can get anything started so I am anxious to know what the problem is. I think i was right in brining it in; He said its getting spark so they are kinda up in the are themselves. I am starting to know these cars more and more. had he called me in 1 hour and told me it started i would have seriously questioned my mechanical skills but it appears as if you guys are actually teaching me something ;ol;

Lets see what the problem turns out to be. I am with Turbo 1992 in thinking the hall sensor in the Dizzy is screwed but would it allow spark??

I was under the impression when hall sensor goes out you wont even get a crank, am I wrong????
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/images/misc/progress.gif

turbo1992
07-03-11, 03:24 PM
The starter cranks the motor and the coil provides spark.

Brewmaster
07-03-11, 03:29 PM
My car started, albeit BARELY, when the Hall solenoid went poo. But it did start

B202NUT
07-03-11, 03:54 PM
I tell you what though; it really helps to understand your vehicle. When he called and reconfirmed what I had told him in the morning was accurate, he told me the $90 per hour kicks in when they go above and beyond what they know I already did; had i not tested the fuel system and ignition system on my own I would be into the second hour of labor fees with no cure....

Saab Central is God send!

Guy just called from Swede Central here is the diagnosis;

pump only runs when relay is by passed, and when the pump runs, the pressure drops off. he is looking around the shop for a used ECU and is gunna swap that, and then see if the pump functions properly. So he is thinking the Control unit is bad. They are going to swap one out and call me back... aren't the 1991 prone to ECU failure??????
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/images/misc/progress.gif

B202NUT
07-03-11, 08:43 PM
I got a call around 6pm. ECU confirmed bad. The Partner/Mechanic in the indy shop is an ex Aeronotical Mechanic/Saab Dealer Specialist, current part owner of Swede Central. He said he cannot get past the ECU in is diagnostics proces and it needs to be replaced. He put it in his laymen words for me to understand; "the computer is not telling the fuel pump what to do. The fuel pump is only getting power at the moment. After replacing the ECU, we can determine if the fuel pump is clogged due to the amount of time the car has sat."

I doubt there is anything wrong with the fuel pump. I found an ECU from the same salvage that I bougt my 9000 Aero's from in the far Northeast US, and I its only $75 tested proper. I will update this by the end of the week when the shipment arrives.

PS,

He was totally dumbfounded when I told him what I paid for the car. He looked at me and said, "Mike if that car had a manual box, you couldn't ask for a better car."

B202NUT
07-03-11, 10:41 PM
We just bit the bullet and bought this on ebay.

Rare Saab 900 SE Jetronic ECU 0 280 000 585 90-91


http://i.ebayimg.com/05/!CFIB-8Q!Wk~$(KGrHqZ,!hoE0h2+9tkKBNUGhGkPzg~~_35.JPG

this is the only one with my exact Bosch and Saab part #'s and aparantly they are not as easy to find; two listed on ebay both indicating the part is getting hard to source used and is about a thou$and or $o at the dealer; let's hope this works...

B202NUT
14-03-11, 10:14 PM
We just bit the bullet and bought this on ebay.

Rare Saab 900 SE Jetronic ECU 0 280 000 585 90-91


http://i.ebayimg.com/05/!CFIB-8Q!Wk~$(KGrHqZ,!hoE0h2+9tkKBNUGhGkPzg~~_35.JPG

this is the only one with my exact Bosch and Saab part #'s and aparantly they are not as easy to find; two listed on ebay both indicating the part is getting hard to source used and is about a thou$and or $o at the dealer; let's hope this works...

Just came in the mail and I dropped it to the Saab mechanic; fingers crossed for a positive call tomorrow.

mmoe
14-03-11, 10:46 PM
I tell you what though; it really helps to understand your vehicle. When he called and reconfirmed what I had told him in the morning was accurate, he told me the $90 per hour kicks in when they go above and beyond what they know I already did; had i not tested the fuel system and ignition system on my own I would be into the second hour of labor fees with no cure....

Saab Central is God send!

Guy just called from Swede Central here is the diagnosis;

pump only runs when relay is by passed, and when the pump runs, the pressure drops off. he is looking around the shop for a used ECU and is gunna swap that, and then see if the pump functions properly. So he is thinking the Control unit is bad. They are going to swap one out and call me back... aren't the 1991 prone to ECU failure??????
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/images/misc/progress.gif

No, the '89 is the only year I'm aware of that had issues (in the turbos) and even then it's relatively uncommon. There are a lot of '89s out there that still have the original ECU and keep going just fine. Why was the fuel pump relay not suspected? If bypassing the relay solves the problem then either the signal to the relay is not present (bad ECU) or the relay itself if not operating properly. Did they test the signal to the relay? I hope they are willing to reimburse you for the ECU if they find it doesn't solve the problem, that's an expensive part if you don't need it.

If the fuel pressure is bad without the ECU, the pressure will still be bad with the ECU. You will continue to have problems unless the pressure is up to snuff. This may or may not be the pump.

B202NUT
15-03-11, 05:17 PM
No, the '89 is the only year I'm aware of that had issues (in the turbos) and even then it's relatively uncommon. There are a lot of '89s out there that still have the original ECU and keep going just fine. Why was the fuel pump relay not suspected? If bypassing the relay solves the problem then either the signal to the relay is not present (bad ECU) or the relay itself if not operating properly. Did they test the signal to the relay? I hope they are willing to reimburse you for the ECU if they find it doesn't solve the problem, that's an expensive part if you don't need it.

If the fuel pressure is bad without the ECU, the pressure will still be bad with the ECU. You will continue to have problems unless the pressure is up to snuff. This may or may not be the pump.

you make a decent point, and i cannot verify what was done in my absence. The only thing I do know is the guy being who he is and the experience they have at this shop, I doubt I would have been instructed to purchase an ECU if it was not bad. However, I have not heard a peep all day long. When i called the mechanioc was wrapped up in another vehicle and my car's battery was dead so they were charging it. I told him I am not happy with the delay and he explained he will get the car started by tomorrow. I am now twittling my fingers and kinda pissy.

Lets see what gives tomorrow...:evil:... This is the main reason why I DO NOT LIKE taking my car to a garage; its just a service ticket in thier eyes....

B202NUT
16-03-11, 03:05 PM
tHEY CANNOT GET THE CAR STARTED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:evi l::evil::evil:

I am almost ready to part it out and get my investment back;

any ideas for no start with a car at a SAAB mechanic with over 20 yrears experience?

I am totally lost at where to go next and although they keep telling me they will get it started i am thinking they have about the same clue as i have; NONE AT ALL!!!

anybody with of the REAL MECHANICS on SC that work on thess cars regularly can give me an idea of wht to have this guy look into???

so far car has had:

major 30k service
new to me ECU


ignition anf fuel systemt tested positive all around and the car gets spark and turns over but does not catch.

Does tha facotry alarm have the capability to stop the car from starting?????

what has he an I missed that would disable to capability to start???????????

I am about 1500 into this ioncluding purchase and as it sits i can part it out and get my money back no problem. and I am about 1 more day away from going that route.

thanks

dmgb5
16-03-11, 03:57 PM
I'm a little confused...Have you been able to start the car at any point since you purchased it?

Malko
16-03-11, 06:15 PM
what kind of die did you use for the seats and the carpet? the car looks fantastic!!!

B202NUT
16-03-11, 07:09 PM
what kind of die did you use for the seats and the carpet? the car looks fantastic!!!

You might be referring to the Red N/A; I used dye from leathermagic.com' the seats were sourced from a 9000 CSE;

I am actually taking the velour seats skins out and offering them for sale.

I just picked up a like new set of carmel leathers out of a 9000 in the salvage yard; these seats are Amazing!

your currently in the Turbo SE project thread and this car has not started since I bought it; not happy....

B202NUT
27-03-11, 11:31 AM
Finally, this Saturday (which happens to be my daughters birthday:cheesy:) and 2 months since the initial purchase, I will be bringing the Vert home finally:cool:. The weather is perfect for a good test drive home and I cant wait to feel the non interrupted boost of the auto boxes performance...

I will immediately swap the 9000 Aeros off my N/A and let the top back for the weekend.

First order of business will be to remove the top motor and hydraulic lifters as the pistons are leaking (at leat the one on driver side is) and the motor seems corroded, keeps shorting out the fuses.

I understand the motors are bullet proof for the most part; so i will take it to the machine shop that reconed the head for my N/A and see if they can get inside it and give a good cleaning and put the parts back.

Does anyone know where to buy replacement seals and O-rings for the convertible top pistons?

Chicane
28-03-11, 04:25 AM
I take it the car has started, So What was the issue?
I think we are all dying to know!

B202NUT
29-03-11, 01:24 AM
I take it the car has started, So What was the issue?
I think we are all dying to know!

The ECU was bad, and the ignition wiring was badly corroded. When I go to pick up the car I will be sure to have them point me directly where the issues were. When I took them the car I already removed the knee bolster and lower center console around the shift lever; so everything will be quite visual:).

The hard brake pedal was cured with a complete flush and fill. The ABS Control Module under the back seat was filled with water and also needed replacement.

The mechanic said he is well pleased with its performance, He said it boosted into the yellow no problem ( I have never driven a turbo Saab so I am not keen to that feeling) and shifting is smooth.

The service Manager told me 3 people asked if the car was for sale:cool:.

All and all the car was attacked by the elements. Seems like standing water was the case. According to them everything is sorted and they suggest I just go through and clean all the grounds.. They refer to the car as an SPG; but I know better,,

but yes the car is running and according to them, very well.

Were into it about $2,200 included a couple of fresh skins for the front seats, and all the service work, which has been extensive already; by british standards, a turbo vert with tupperware I understand can run between $5,000 - $8,000 US. We feel good about the investment and the owners of the service shop still cannot believe I pad a fist full of bills for the car.

B202NUT
04-04-11, 09:46 PM
Here are a couple cheeky shots of the engine post re-incarnation. A few things to set straight but all in all an Amazing Car!

I love my manual-box N/A but I have a serious crush on this Autobox Turbo charged car.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/Engine1-1-1-2.jpg?t=1301967378

As you can see in this shot I am redoing the A/C system.. There is a peep of the Autobox and you can see its very clean. This car is not leaking not one drop of oil or water anywhere!

Ok there is teensy little leak at the oil warning light sender at the filter housing.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/Engine3-2-1.jpg?t=1301967906

jskrebs
04-04-11, 09:54 PM
They call me Mellow Yellow :p)

domer94
04-04-11, 10:53 PM
so i notice the title of your thread is "my wife's" vert... i too am in a similar situation with my 89'... i put it under her name to ease the strain of the aquisition. was wondering if you had some othwer motivation as well!!:cheesy:

B202NUT
05-04-11, 12:53 PM
so i notice the title of your thread is "my wife's" vert... i too am in a similar situation with my 89'... i put it under her name to ease the strain of the aquisition. was wondering if you had some othwer motivation as well!!:cheesy:


Nope this is truly my Wifes car:cry:; and I must admit I am getting a bit jealous becasue it is truly a fabulous vehicle. She is liking it more and more each day and can't wait to drive it. She wants it in proper shape before I hand her the keys so all cosmetics will be done. She wants a wood dash like philljohns but in Black and that is the project for next weekend:cool:.

If the N/A was Auto this would be my vert:cheesy:....

domer94
05-04-11, 01:06 PM
speaking of wood dash.. im kicking about the idea as well. i have the black face on my 89 , but it was pulling up in the right side and broken in a couple of spots. i had glued it down, but its not quite "right". ive had some experience with the wood dash with the 3m adhesive on the back on other cars and its not been bad at all, but what i want to know is.. do i have to remove the original black "padded" face that is on there now? it seems like it would have to be done for the wood trim to fit properly. i imiagine some heat gun work will be able to pull up the old facia. does this sound right?

B202NUT
05-04-11, 02:11 PM
speaking of wood dash.. im kicking about the idea as well. i have the black face on my 89 , but it was pulling up in the right side and broken in a couple of spots. i had glued it down, but its not quite "right". ive had some experience with the wood dash with the 3m adhesive on the back on other cars and its not been bad at all, but what i want to know is.. do i have to remove the original black "padded" face that is on there now? it seems like it would have to be done for the wood trim to fit properly. i imiagine some heat gun work will be able to pull up the old facia. does this sound right?

the plan is to pull that black plastic facing off to use as the template for the veneer. When I pull it whatever glue is left I will try my best to clean it off with something strong. The Fascia itself in the vert is solid, all the mounting loops are i tact so I have no issues there. We decided to go with a black stain.

IMHO its far more contemporary than any of the maples or lighter stains. I just think the lighter versions of wood stains makes the car look to primative; we like a more contemporary stylish look and that will be had with black stain!


I have found some postings online with tricks to using the black stain properly and I am gunna have a go at it...

Han Choi
10-04-11, 04:59 PM
Whoa that engine bay is CLEAN!! Where did you get the yellow paint?

B202NUT
10-04-11, 08:07 PM
Whoa that engine bay is CLEAN!! Where did you get the yellow paint?

Thanks; I got the paint from Autozone in an aerosol can,,,

My N/A is just as clean. Its alwasy the first order of business for me. It allows me to monitor the engine easier and quickly catch leaks.. Also easy on the eyes:)...

B202NUT
10-04-11, 08:25 PM
This weekend the wife said I was not allowed to spend any cash on the cars. So I decided to do as much on the vert as possible that did not require cash.

Here are the skins I removed:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/RemovedSeats-1.jpg?t=1302481179

B202NUT
10-04-11, 08:26 PM
Here is the Base of the Driver Seat relaced:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/SeatBottonmrepaired-1.jpg?t=1302481543

Top Portion:

I am not pleased how the lower portion came out; I am ging to peel it up and re-adjust the metal framing. To those that are reskinning thier seats, I cannot stress the importance of the metal framing is to the finish!

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/Passengerseatback-1.jpg?t=1302481680

why does the vinyl piping kink like that:( ?

B202NUT
10-04-11, 08:34 PM
After doing the base with the original clips I had enough. I switched the clips frr zip ties the rest of the job:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/ZipTiesoverCLips-1.jpg?t=1302481905

I used proper nylon industrial type zipties. Not the crappy ones from the local Walmart:nono;:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/NylonZipTies-1.jpg?t=1302482037

B202NUT
10-04-11, 08:40 PM
The Driver seat needs to a newn zipper sewn onto the skin and the rear metal mouting post so it was left aside.

I then pulled the carpet out. Notice the rear; the PO's husband and his brilliant idea cut the carpet out. Had he not did that, the carpet would have been almost perfect. I shampooed it so I can patch his muster cluck and I cut a small swatch to send off the "Leather Magic" for an exact match to darken up the faded areas of the carpet. This week, my challenge is to find generic automotive carpet and buy a run to patch the rear:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/VertCarpetremovedenCleaned-1.jpg?t=1302482243

from the minimal wear every other place except the spots on the driver side, you can see this car has not been used properly: My Gain!...

B202NUT
10-04-11, 08:55 PM
I posted these a few months back I picked up on ebay. The fronts were Sun Bleached green and the rears were perfect. I had black dye left over from th N/A Carpets and I redid the front floor mats:

http://i.ebayimg.com/18/!CDZyk)gBmk~$(KGrHqF,!hkE0fmTnwPNBNOcor7-mg~~_12.JPG

After the black dye:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/floormats-1.jpg?t=1302483063

B202NUT
10-04-11, 08:56 PM
A Mist of Black Dye over the dingy white "Saab Emblems" turned them a nice grey to match the interior of the car:cool:

This is why we need to Save our Teachers; I learned this in Elementary School:)...

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/Emblem-1.jpg?t=1302483291

B202NUT
10-04-11, 09:03 PM
Last but the most important job of the weekend was fixing the back and forth movement of the electrical seats. here is my version of the repair. I did left and righ sides of both seats as all four plastic cable housings were cracked:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/SeatReclineRepair2-1.jpg?t=1302483596

Left Side:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/SeatReclineRepair-1.jpg?t=1302483765

B202NUT
10-04-11, 09:19 PM
Once the carpet dries I will shampoo the interior floor boards and add more sound proofing.

I always get the old Saab stink out of my cars as the first order of business.

Once I figure out how to patch the carpet I will then defunk and get it smelling sweet. I read posts wher guys own these cars for years and cannot get the smell out; leave the car with me for a week:cool:... I need my car to greet me with a fesh scent each time I enter..


I was able to do everything without spending any cash; everything was on hand in the garage..


I hope you can appreciate my efforts. Till next time

Cheers,,,

James Bond
11-04-11, 02:37 AM
Last but the most important job of the weekend was fixing the back and forth movement of the electrical seats. here is my version of the repair. I did left and righ sides of both seats as all four plastic cable housings were cracked:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/SeatReclineRepair2-1.jpg?t=1302483596

Left Side:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/SeatReclineRepair-1.jpg?t=1302483765

Hi!

I need to do this - did you cut the new rubber pipes or slide them over the ends of the existing pipes?

B202NUT
11-04-11, 04:20 AM
Hi!

I need to do this - did you cut the new rubber pipes or slide them over the ends of the existing pipes?


from the posts I read they basic idea is to re-enforce the breach with an elbow of rubber hose. It appears as if the metal cable inside the plastic housing turns and the cracked line allows this cable to work itself out of the motor causing only one side of the seat to operate. In the places where the line was only cracked once I went over the breach with the rubber hose. The hoses that had 2 crakes I just removed that portion of the cable housing and used the hose as an elbow and a connector. All 4 lines are secure and I cleaned the underside of the seat and lubed all moveable parts.

I hope it all works out fine; I haven't plugged em up yet...

I am confident everything will be fine as the driver seat was cracked th worst of the 2 and it still worked some what before I removed the seat. The pasenger seat function didn't work at all but was only craked once on either side. When I fipped the seat I noticed the front motor had one electical connectio lose. So that seat re-enforced should be well sorted.

B202NUT
14-04-11, 08:16 AM
I am going to repair the heater valve on this car this weekend. It failed at the perfect time. As the seats and knee bolster are out and i had the car idling on the drive way Sunday the top heater hose was leaking and I noticed the top heater valve port crumbled inside the hose.

I decided to remove the entire heater core and do a proper repair; However, I was starting to see what I think are telltale signes the H/G needs replacing. After the mechanic got the car running I noticed foam in the coolant res tank. This was an ealy warning sign before the actual bubbles I saw on the N/A before it finally failed.

So I am thinking to get prepared for the head job and been reading up on the 2.1 heads. Many posts suggests going to a 2.1 head and intake oppose to porting the 2.0 heads.

Any ideas on this? it will be my first step into the darkside and I want it done properly.

Can I simply get a known good 2.1 head from a salvage yard or is it suggested I get one from a specific year car?

Also the cams, Iread posts about hot cams and such; are the 2.1 cams to satw in place when installing in the turbo engines?

The head recon of for my 2.1 N/A was only $350 and I can see doing that again if i can get a good cylinder to start with.

I think it will be practical to do this mod and the 3" down pipe at the same time.

what is suggested??

dmgb5
14-04-11, 01:58 PM
Unless you plan on seriously modifying the car its probably not a good idea to put a 2.1 head on there. The main benefit is lower compression which allows you to run higher turbo pressure. You sacrifice low end/off turbo power for it though.

B202NUT
14-04-11, 02:04 PM
Unless you plan on seriously modifying the car its probably not a good idea to put a 2.1 head on there. The main benefit is lower compression which allows you to run higher turbo pressure. You sacrifice low end/off turbo power for it though.

Well then lets define Seriously Modifyiing, here are my plans:

Water injection so I keep the stock IC
3 bar FPR
Modified APC
3" Down pipe
9000 Brake Calipers (front Only)

Would the 2.1 head and Intake be suitable for that kind of an application?

dmgb5
15-04-11, 07:20 PM
Based on those planned modifications I don't think they necessitate using a 2.1L head and intake. Again the reason for doing this is lowering compression and a nominal gain in flow. Unless you plan on putting a BIG turbo in there and driving it between 4-7k rpm the "seat of your pants" benefits will negligible at best. I wouldn't spent the money, time, or effort but I am curious what others have to say on the topic.

B202NUT
16-04-11, 05:23 PM
Based on those planned modifications I don't think they necessitate using a 2.1L head and intake. Again the reason for doing this is lowering compression and a nominal gain in flow. Unless you plan on putting a BIG turbo in there and driving it between 4-7k rpm the "seat of your pants" benefits will negligible at best. I wouldn't spent the money, time, or effort but I am curious what others have to say on the topic.


mmoe suggested the 3bar FPR and the APC mod should be sufficient for th wife to get a bit more overtake power. Seems like I will do those fr npw and see how it goes. I plan to do a H/G on this car for GP and was just wondering if the upgraded head and intake were beneficial. I will keep things simple; thanks for your suggestions and information.

B202NUT
17-04-11, 06:42 AM
I did not take any pictures of yesterdays progress

1. replaced heater valve
2. Flushed Apple Cider rust juice out of core and complete coolant system and rad.
3. filled with MB coolant
4. Removed oil Saturated Sound proof from front floor boards
5. Cleaned Dash and Front Windscreen (Finally)

In about 2 hours I am going to the salvage yard to pull as much sound proofing padding I can.

I have found adding sound proof (the eqivilent to doubling the a,ount given at stock) really reduces the cabin acoustics and gave my N/A a more comfy appeal.

There is a 1995 9000 and a 1997 1nd 1998 Saab 900 in the yard at the time and usually the sound proofing in the later cars is usually in far better shape. They give it away free and thats the exact price I can afford right now:cheesy:.

I will post pictures later.

Sound proofing and grabbing the two headlight wiper motors off the 95 9000 is this mornings task; I should be back by noon. Hopefully the heated seat controls lights work in the 95 9000 also I will grab those.

Cheers,

"Save Classic Saabs"

B202NUT
17-04-11, 09:13 PM
Today was a busy day for the vert, an some progress was made. After I repaired the failed heater valve this is what things looked like. A you can see all the weapons of choice inthis pic scattered about. My trusty friend BP Blaster rolling over on the far upper left.

Vent grills get new O-rings for precise positioning. All vents get the toothbrush and Q-Tip Special:lol:.. Tedious work but well worth it!

Solder to repair light bulb at the shif position illumination.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/THEBEGINNING-1.jpg?t=1303088806

B202NUT
17-04-11, 09:24 PM
Anyone that follows either of my project threads hear me always talking about adding more sound proofing. Some may find it a waste of time and others may be interested in why?

Here is a clear example of why I always upgrade the sound proofing in my C900' to the 9000 sound proofing.

If your like me and enjoy a sound tight cabin ( or as close as one can get) this upgrade is well worth its wieght in foam and rubber.

Look at how much thicker and larger the 9000 SP is compared to the stuff we got at stock.

9000 S/Pon left stock 900 S/P on the right: I pulled this morning from the salvage yard.. Oh yeah I had to get the brake pedal as well it was infar better chape than my one; For those of us with Auto Boxes the 9000 brake pedal is an exact fit...

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/SOUNDPROOFINGCOMPARED-1.jpg?t=1303089338

Here is the difference in thickness:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/SOUNDPROOFINGTHICKNESS-1.jpg?t=1303089708


The 9000 S/P is thick very heavy and feels like dead wieght; what I took out of the 900 I flung to on side without effort; you cannot handle the 9000 S/P in that manner:nono;; very heavy stuff... (quiet cabin)..

B202NUT
17-04-11, 09:31 PM
These bits I pull out from between the door panels and the rear quarter panels in the 9000 and they will go on those exact places on the Vert:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/SOUNDPROOFEINGFORBODYPANELS-1.jpg?t=1303090150

B202NUT
17-04-11, 09:40 PM
And as you cna see here (check yours) the S/P in these cars is really not proofing anythng looking like that:

Have you realized yet the foam backing in our cars is suppose to be white:)...

9000 on Left 900 on Right:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/SOUNDPROOFNASTY-1.jpg?t=1303090498

B202NUT
17-04-11, 09:51 PM
After scrubbing the Floor boards and drying everything well, here is everything trimmed and fitted:

Yes Dryer sheets under the carpet, completely knocks out the old Saab smell and keept the car fresh!

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/SOUNDPROOFINGINSTALLED-1.jpg?t=1303090978

domer94
17-04-11, 10:10 PM
you could have been a wiseass and put a fish carcass under there...:p

B202NUT
17-04-11, 10:25 PM
And here she is suiting up to be a will fitted C900 Vert. The carpet came put extrememly clean and I patched the rear with a couple cuts from Volvo in the yard. The floor mats came out really nice as well.

The light spots will be sorted when the leather magic carpet dye arrives:cool:. You can see a bit of the leather steering whel I cleaned up as well. This car is really a gem! it was just dirty and neglected..


http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/INTERIORFLOORMATS-1.jpg?t=1303093350

B202NUT
17-04-11, 10:30 PM
The leather on the door panel was ashy and rough, most all the stables were gone.

McGuires leather conditioner and vinyl cleaner and this is what came back. Nice and supple with a light gloss. Feels like lotioned skin.. I have grey micro suede already trimmed to fit the door cards..No foam backing..

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/LEATHERDORRPANELSCLEANED-1.jpg?t=1303093711

you can see a bit of rust to tend down in the lower right corner when it's paint time,,

B202NUT
17-04-11, 10:34 PM
Crappy piccy but the green wire was dangling loose with the black ground and there was no light to illuminate the shift position at night;

Repaired with the solder iron; the amber light is what was out..

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/SOLDERFORSHIFTLIGHT-1.jpg?t=1303093954

B202NUT
17-04-11, 10:42 PM
So as I was installing the seat skins last weekend, I noticed the button to move the passenegr seat back and forth was broke.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/BROKENPASSEASTSWITCH-1.jpg?t=1303094225

A few mnths ago I bought an item from a guy on ebay and he sent me a free wire harness for an electical seat. I never thought I would ever need it but it provided a donor button for the Vert seat that was broke above.

I had to perform a little surgery and Voila, new switch installed..! I only replaced the broken switch, not the entire harness.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/PASSEATSWITCHREPAIRED-1.jpg?t=1303094453

B202NUT
17-04-11, 10:54 PM
When I viewed Philjohns project thread I saw where he installed a small light at the side of the carpeted secton of the center console to illuminate the floors. I thought it was a brilliant Idea!

Who said GM Saabs are not worth anything:lol:.

I pulled this out of a 98 900; it was the light above the drive passenger center console in those cars; I have two of them, one for each side of the center console to iluminate the floor.

The other one is switched and I will put that one on the driver side so I can control cabin floor light if necessary while motoring:cool:.

I will also experiment with LEDS in this application as well. I am thinking a colored LED but we will see.. These will be wired to the small lights in the rear speakers

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/MODFORCENTERCONSOLE-1.jpg?t=1303094909

B202NUT
17-04-11, 11:02 PM
Since I have a car with electric seats and I noticed the motors are $300 and those prone to breaking plastic gear housings crack often I could not pass on these in the yard for 20 bucks and the plastic housings are in perfect shape. I tested my seats and the repair I did works fine so I will keep these on the shelf for future insurance:

I pulled the entire unit, gear, motor and everything. Things like this you just don't leave on a car about to be crushed:nono;..

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/SPARESEATMOTOR-1.jpg?t=1303095534

B202NUT
17-04-11, 11:05 PM
I spent a total of 32 bucks today. As you can see I salvage alot from 9000's for my cars and the greatest part is I never worry about competing for parts; this car has been sitting for about 4 weeks now and I slowly picked it apart at my leisure....

I hope you can appreciate my efforts....

"Save Classic Saabs"

Cheers,,,

B202NUT
18-04-11, 08:44 PM
I guess if your gunna have a project thread, might as well document everything right:lol:.

Wife actually commissioned my to hurry up with her car:cheesy:. When we first went to look at it she tried everything in her power to get me not to buy it. HA!!

Since this is gunna be a woman's daily driver, and one I had to convince to give this car a chance, I gotta get everything back to stock so she wont have any complaints!

Today after work, I took a few minutes and cleaned the vents, vent grills, and replaced the O-rings to properly position them for air distribution in the cabin. I also grabbed new wiper blades, and painted the wiper arms with the Dupli-Color trim paint.

I stopped by the local surplus store and grabbed the O-rings; .25 cents per: the black one was stock, as you can see, exact match.. This place has every size O ring,nut bolt, gizmo, motor, you cna think of; it is a engineers dream place.


http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/OringsWiperblades-1.jpg?t=1303172957



http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/ORINGFITED2-1.jpg?t=1303173781


http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/ORINGSFITTED.jpg?t=1303173816


Ebony Wood Dash and glove box inlay on the way...

KurBads
19-04-11, 03:52 AM
hiiiii B202NUT,

Could you please check your PM box ...


KurBads

Han Choi
19-04-11, 09:36 PM
Lol I took out my foam and carpet from the floor and took the whole day to clean it, only to have it pour the next day revealing another leak and some soaked carpets. Your interior looks awesome I hope its sealed tightly! ;ol;

B202NUT
20-04-11, 03:15 PM
Lol I took out my foam and carpet from the floor and took the whole day to clean it, only to have it pour the next day revealing another leak and some soaked carpets. Your interior looks awesome I hope its sealed tightly! ;ol;

thanks Han, The top is tore; that will be repalced before the car hits the pavement though. other than that obvious issue the car is rather sealed tight.

it hard to explain and I know you guys are tired of hearing me say it but this car was not trashed at all! Every single factory item is still there. The car was just filthy dirty. BUT it is as tight as a rats behind!

The suspension rolls 1000 times better than my N/A . the vert doesn't need shocks, ball joints, or springs as you would think!

the lady took care of it she just smoked, never washed it and simply didn't know what she had; a true rare find for the price indeed!!! and I am quite cheeky for it!

Al remnants of her cancer filled lungs are gone! car is fresh as a spring day in Sweden:)

The vert rests comfortably in the garage with the top down:cool:. I start it everyday while I do my little tweaks and let it idle for about 3 full fan cycles and shut it down; since the coolant flush and replacing with MB coolant, the temp needle does not get past 4 o'clock and thats sitting idling for about 30 minutes. I timed it yesterday and it takes the engine 20 minutes to reach operating temps. That MB coolant is worth every penny! keeps these cars cool...

B202NUT
26-04-11, 08:28 PM
The slave failed in the N/A yesterday and I took the day off to sort it out. Before school this morning my daughter made a request, " Daddy, can you pick me up in the grey car today"? How cna a dad say no to a six year old?

So, the slave grease job was put on hold. All I had to do to the vert was pu the passenger side headlight back in and the windshield water bottle. I also put new bulbs in the dash (the right side for the APC and gas gauge was out.

I gave the car her first wash since I bought it and wiped up the engine bay from the spray of the failed heater vale I fixed last week. Cleaned the windows with a razor blade inside and out (old trick from my detailing days).

I will probably say it a milion times if not more; I CANNOT BELIEVE WE PAID $350 FOR THIS CAR!

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/vertinttheshade-1.jpg?t=1303863779


http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/vertinttheshade3-1.jpg?t=1303863966

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/vertinttheshade-2.jpg?t=1303864057

B202NUT
26-04-11, 08:36 PM
I call this stage one, there is so much that is going to be done but it looks really nice as is; this resto will be a breeze in respects the car is mechanically sound! no bangs or clangs. Her official name is "Gracy" and she drives as good as she looks:cool:. I don't have an official Boost gauge but the APC gauge holds mid yellow as long as I am giving it gas.

When I tweak the APC I only want full yellow Boost; I have no interest in the RED ZONE! this car I want well equipped for daily driving, overtaking, and the occasional willy holding whirl with something on the highway that thinks she is slow.

It was a glorious day driving the Vert! I swear these are not cars. People look at them like its a person flying down the expressway. I got tons of thumbs up, stares, and compliments I was a bit cheeky!

I had a guy in a 9-3 vert at the perto station just staring at the car like he never saw one before; I pulled up by him and he just gave thumbs up:cool:...

domer94
26-04-11, 08:38 PM
really nice.. they are truly timeless... i never get tired of staring at mine. enjoy;ol;

B202NUT
26-04-11, 08:59 PM
really nice.. they are truly timeless... i never get tired of staring at mine. enjoy;ol;

thank you; the car is absolutely smashing to drive! This car is 20 years old this year and it is still rock solid. The feel handle and overall performance is light years ahead of my N/A. I had no idea how much driving satisfaction these cars deliver.

I truly believe the autobox is totally under rated! Yes your expecting that overdrive gear to make things amazingly perfect; HOWEVER, this car's tranny is a smooth shifter and the constant boost is definately a plus oppose to the drop across manual shifts!

misu
26-04-11, 09:14 PM
Concerning of autotranny. I think, that in this case manual is manual. You know I've restored automatic one that it is like new and it is shifting absolutely seamless, but it never delivery all power from this turbo engine as manual one. Or just it is bad renovated, I do not know. But after some time with auto, I've decided switch to manual (as all old servicemen said me).

misu
26-04-11, 09:17 PM
I've just seen your photos. Car looks perfect! ;ol;.

B202NUT
26-04-11, 09:21 PM
Here is a rough list of whats in line for this car in the near future:

Engine:


Upgrade front brakes to 9000 Calipers, Rotors and pads (stock in the rear)
3" down pipe
3Bar FPR
Sligtly Modify the APC
Head Gasket replacement (insurance)
Fluid change; differential, tranny, engine oil, power steering, coolant (again)
Meth Injection?? maybe depending if the other mods are effective with the the stock IC
Interior:

Ebony wood dash and glove box inlay
Ebony shift knob
Dye leather seats front and rear, repair minor craks in rear seat and loose stiching
Decent sound system: 1 10" punch speaker, moderate amplifier, and new cell phone intergrated CD player with Satellite radio, GPS
Door and speaker card fabric replacement
Keyless remote entry
Convert the ashtray to a cellphone holder (who smokes anyway yuk!)
Refirb A/C system, top motor, and hydraulic pumps
Wind screen
Exterior:


New paint, Exterior (same stock color), Panels (stock also)
New top
Custom made headliner, I want to see if this wil work, along with the ebony dash and black flor mats, it will make things feel rich. I plan to bring it along with my original headliner to my tailor and see if they can manage the job:

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yourautotrim-store_2150_108401 (http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yourautotrim-store_2150_9906)Perforated Vinyl Automotive Headlining
SOLD BY THE YARD Laminated with a 1/8" foam backing. For use in both trucks, cars, and RV's. Specs:


Swap the 9000 Aeros off the N/A
Repaint all the black trim wiht Duplicolor trim aerosol can spray
I like the stock orange against the Platana grey. I will high polish the stock lights and clear coat front and rear for a gloss shine; re-spray black trim around rear lights
This will all take as long as spendable cash permits but it the goal nonetheless.

Cheers..

B202NUT
26-04-11, 09:30 PM
I've just seen your photos. Car looks perfect! ;ol;.


I take that compliment to heart from you misu;ol;; your car is AMAZING!

thank you...

B202NUT
26-04-11, 09:34 PM
Concerning of autotranny. I think, that in this case manual is manual. You know I've restored automatic one that it is like new and it is shifting absolutely seamless, but it never delivery all power from this turbo engine as manual one. Or just it is bad renovated, I do not know. But after some time with auto, I've decided switch to manual (as all old servicemen said me).

I am sure your correct; there wont be a possibility to change the gear box in this car until my wife gets the car she really wants (Audi, Volvo) BUT I am thinking once all said and done the keys to this car will be difficult for me to find. She is loving it more and more each day :cry:..

white65
26-04-11, 09:37 PM
Repaint all the black trim wiht Duplicolor trim aerosol can spray


Don't waste your money. Use SEM 39143 trim black, you'll be glad you did. The black holds up better and doesn''t crack or fade. Sticks to anything. Anything from SEM is top notch.

http://semproducts.com/Catalog.asp?prod=133

B202NUT
26-04-11, 09:41 PM
Don't waste your money. Use SEM 39143 trim black, you'll be glad you did. The black holds up better and doesn''t crack or fade. Sticks to anything. Anything from SEM is top notch.

http://semproducts.com/Catalog.asp?prod=133

I used the Duplicolor on the N/A; its been almost two years and it is flawless.Its one of the first thkngs people notice is how black and clean the trim is.

I will have a look into the link you posted though,thanks;ol;.

B202NUT
26-04-11, 11:04 PM
Don't waste your money. Use SEM 39143 trim black, you'll be glad you did. The black holds up better and doesn''t crack or fade. Sticks to anything. Anything from SEM is top notch.

http://semproducts.com/Catalog.asp?prod=133

i think you can agree with any paint the final result will only be as good as the preperation.

I think we can also agree Duplicolor makes a good,if not decent product.

I tape everything, wash, and sand with 400 grit.

When I spary the first coat I let it dry completely and sand with 800-1000 grit paper. I do that 3 times and then a final coat. I did the mirrors,and all trim around the windows like this on the N/A and there is not peeling, fading, or signs of wear;ol;

I also sanded and painted the spoiler for the N/A as well; same stuff (i used primer that application and wet sanded it smooth before the final spray.

B202NUT
27-04-11, 10:20 AM
Its was 75 degrees this morning at 7:00 and I drove in and the car is in the park with top down under a tree:cool:.

The wife and i talked last night about painting the N/A and selling it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

white65
27-04-11, 10:08 PM
[QUOTE=B202NUT;1991945]
1. i think you can agree with any paint the final result will only be as good as the preperation.

2. I think we can also agree Duplicolor makes a good,if not decent product.

3. When I spary the first coat I let it dry completely and sand with 800-1000 grit paper. I do that 3 times and then a final coat. I did the mirrors,and all trim around the windows like this on the N/A and there is not peeling, fading, or signs of wear
[QUOTE]


1. Agreed, prep is important.
2. Duplicolor trim paint is so-so.
3. If SEM trim paint was used you would have degreased, scuff padded, prepsal'ed, tack clothed then 2 medium coats of trim paint and would have been done.

I restore many Fox Body Mustangs and the rear quarter windows are a problem with the rubber disintegrating. I tried using Duplicolor black trim paint over a flexible primer filler. It looked good for a half a summer then failed, cracked and lost it's luster. Went to SEM's flexible primer filler and topped with their trim paint. I have one car that the repair was done 5 years ago and still looks as good as a new window. I find a good product and stick with it. I used their SEM bumper coater on my SPG and it went on flawlessly. Duplicolor would have been so-so on the outcome. JMO

B202NUT
01-05-11, 01:45 AM
I got started on the wood dash this weekend. Heres is my gang of supplies.

Saab vinyl dash inlay for template, green hanging folders for Veneer backing, and a bunch of nic nacs from the local .99 cent store. Walnut Veener in the background.

Total investment, $25.00

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/SUPPLIES-1.jpg?t=1304228393

B202NUT
01-05-11, 01:47 AM
A lame shot of the Veener:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/VENEER-1.jpg?t=1304228792

B202NUT
01-05-11, 01:53 AM
Here is a shot of the templates made from the hanging folders. I re-cut the main portion of the dash. what is pictured is the first cut where I made mistakes. luckily for me my patience out wieghed anticipation.

The glove box obviously was easily done on the fisrt run; simple straight cuts.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/TEMPLATES-1.jpg?t=1304228945

B202NUT
01-05-11, 01:59 AM
Its late and I am tired; I butted the veneer and glued it to the hanging folders for a backing. I will update pics tomorrow. Taking the vert to the beach in the morning with the wife and daughter,

Cheers

misu
01-05-11, 07:02 PM
I am not sure, if isn't too late, but I found an original wooden dashboard and I found some important differencies between this one and ordinary dash. If You will wait untill tomorow (and I will not forget), I will send some pictures of it, just to know, what is different and why.
For a short brief: Edges of most openings are cutted away (e.g. for lights, gauges, buttons, even for ventilation) and veneer goes over them. It is too hard for me explain it in english, so if you want to know more, wait for pictures. And if you can find another dashboard, take it, it will be handy.

B202NUT
01-05-11, 07:22 PM
I am not sure, if isn't too late, but I found an original wooden dashboard and I found some important differencies between this one and ordinary dash. If You will wait untill tomorow (and I will not forget), I will send some pictures of it, just to know, what is different and why.
For a short brief: Edges of most openings are cutted away (e.g. for lights, gauges, buttons, even for ventilation) and veneer goes over them. It is too hard for me explain it in english, so if you want to know more, wait for pictures. And if you can find another dashboard, take it, it will be handy.


I plan to take the one out of the N/A and do it first. Please send pics if you can;ol;.

Not to late; been remanning the top motor and it came out nice. I will post picks now. Those two huge magnets inside make it a pain to get the long screws back in. Check out my rebuilt top motor.

B202NUT
01-05-11, 07:40 PM
So when the guys at the Indy Saab shop could not get the top motor to work I knew it had been attacked by corrosion from water as was the ABS brain and all the relays and fuses under the rear seat.

The Saab mechanic said in his 20+ years of experience he never replaced a top motor;so I figured why not open it and see what I can do to fix it.

Here is what I pulled out. It sure looks ready for the trash.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/verttopmotor2-1.jpg?t=1304292887

Inside the Face: Looks like it will never work again; PB BLASTER IS MY BESTESS FRIEND :)

PB Blaster and a tooth brush, you actually watch the corrosion disappear.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/vertmotorinsideface-1.jpg?t=1304293155

B202NUT
01-05-11, 07:44 PM
Fully remmaned and put back together.

And to think I was going to buy a used one:cool:: I gutted the entire motor, cleaned all the rusty crud out, cleaned up the magnets and whatever that thing is that rotates inside and all the bits at the front. Took me a couple hours including the paint and I like to think it was a mighty fine job; My wife swore I went to the parts store and bought it:); she actually checked the account. HA!!!

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/remannedmotor-1.jpg?t=1304293283


http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/motorremanned2-1.jpg?t=1304293397

Job Complete; now to rebuild the pistons with all ne Orings and get back to the wood dash

Misu; I will start with the glove box and see if you post an example of whAt your talking about before I go onto the dash;ol;..

B202NUT
01-05-11, 07:57 PM
Wood trim:


Dashboard inlay
Glove Box door
the raised area around the door handle and the rectangle on the door latch
window control panel
Face cover for large fuzzy box to mount VDO gauges like my N/A

misu
01-05-11, 07:58 PM
Good job. I remember as I did it. Absolutelly crazy job, especially to get all rust from magnets inside motor, as the rust itself was magnetic and cannot be easy cleaned...

B202NUT
01-05-11, 10:17 PM
Here was the easy part. I am also tossing around mixing an olive green type stain with the ebony.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/wooddash-1.jpg?t=1304302449



The Vert has a greenish type tint on the windows and when it hazes over the grey interior it resembles an olive color. I am going to get a couple stains from the hardware store as they are relatively cheap and play with a few mixes diluting with thinner and such....

I hope you can appreciate my efforts;ol;.

Cheers,

B202NUT
02-05-11, 04:49 AM
Good job. I remember as I did it. Absolutelly crazy job, especially to get all rust from magnets inside motor, as the rust itself was magnetic and cannot be easy cleaned...

yes it was a nasty piece to work with. what i found quite amusing was putting the two long screws back:evil:.

The inside was so corroded when I took it all apart the magnetics were not active (if that makes any sense). When everything was clean and I went to replace the long screws the magnet kept pulling the screw so it would not line up with the hole inside the motor.

That took a few tries to get right;)...

B202NUT
02-05-11, 12:52 PM
Is there an easy way to remove the pistons form the cylinders? Mines seem to be rather tight; does the top screw off as it looks like it does?


I have them out; not sure what the blue thing is; I was expectd to see an O-ring; however, the O-ring is under the blue thing. Any suggestions on what need to be replaced??

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/piston-1.jpg?t=1304390744

B202NUT
02-05-11, 11:01 PM
After looking at misu's dash nin detail (thanks for the link misu;ol;). I am going to try and make the wood fluch with the dash edges oppose to making it lay inside. It indeed look alot cleaner on the edges.

First I removed all the silver trim from around the edges of the dash and spray painted it with trim paint so it will have a flat finish.

Then I re-cut the template a 3rd time; However, this time I kept the original vinyl factor piece behind the the file hanging folder for a flat surface and just a tad out on the edges and far more percise with my cuts:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/dashtemplate2-1.jpg?t=1304391237


I am going to glue the file flder hanger to the factory vinyl very very good. This should give just enough raie to make the veneer flush (I hope).

I am also hoping by keeping the factory vinyl, I will get the pliability I need to have a perfect fit.

If you notice I did not cut out any squares for the side mirrors or the rheostat; I realized from misu's pics and the original dash, those are only holes with plates that rest on top.

I also decided to stick with the ebony finish so I can hide mistakes and make the edges appear as clean as possible.

misu
02-05-11, 11:24 PM
I would do it in another way: First of all, I would cut all edges and flush them, so the veneer can lay flat at that plastic piece. Then I would make a rough template from paper, so all holes are around 2 - 4 mm smaller. Then, cut veneer and glue it into plastic. And then carefully cut remaining material, so edges of veneer are flush with plastic openings.
You have to remove also all three knobs and ventilation grilles. Note only one opening must be precise - "Fasten Seat Belts" warning...

B202NUT
02-05-11, 11:33 PM
I would do it in another way: First of all, I would cut all edges and flush them, so the veneer can lay flat at that plastic piece. Then I would make a rough template from paper, so all holes are around 2 - 4 mm smaller. Then, cut veneer and glue it into plastic. And then carefully cut remaining material, so edges of veneer are flush with plastic openings.
You have to remove also all three knobs and ventilation grilles. Note only one opening must be precise - "Fasten Seat Belts" warning...

this is the plan. when I cut out the Veener I am going to cut the edges about 1/8" out on the edges and then trim them off.

Some portions of the original plastic dash is warped or broken, so I wanted to use the papr as a filler to flaten ut the surface for the back of the veneer.

I do see your points and it was kinda what I had in mind.

AHHHHHHHHHH!!!

I think I see your point more clear now; I will do as you say by cutting the edges first.

I think you mean to lay the veener across the dash face and cut out around the edges to get them true and then lay the template on that and cut out the openings.

How about glue the veneer to the vinyl fascia and then lay it across the dash and cut edges to help with slight bend, then lay out trimmed veneer and cut opening.

IS that what your suggesting?

misu
02-05-11, 11:42 PM
Some portions of the original plastic dash is warped or broken...

Warped? Broken? Do you mean that vinyl piece? I wouldn' work with that old vinyl. I would work only with plastic piece - chasis (or how to name it)... Use that vinyl just for cut of that warning opening. This should be first and only cutout, what should be done on template, then lay it down on "chasis" and draw rest of opening just with small press on template, paper deform around holes and will shows, where to cut.

B202NUT
02-05-11, 11:50 PM
Warped? Broken? Do you mean that vinyl piece? I wouldn' work with that old vinyl. I would work only with plastic piece - chasis (or how to name it)... Use that vinyl just for cut of that warning opening. This should be first and only cutout, what should be done on template, then lay it down on "chasis" and draw rest of opening just with small press on template, paper deform around holes and will shows, where to cut.

interesting thought.

wouldn't using the vinyl inlay be the best template for precise opening cuts? despite its condition?

just wondering??

misu
03-05-11, 12:01 AM
interesting thought.

wouldn't using the vinyl inlay be the best template for precise opening cuts? despite its condition?

just wondering??

I don't think so... Use that vinyl just for cut of belt warning, that's all. Then lay paper down on palstic dashboard and with fingers find and mark, where are all openings. Than take paper out, add some "material" into those marked lines (so cutted openings in template would be smaller), then cut veneer around this template and glue it on dashboard. Then use really sharp knife and cut remaining material so edges of veneer would be flush with edges of openings. Maybe would be better for the last milimeter use sanding block... Opening for belt warning is the only one you cannot do at this way, so it have to be precise before you will glue veneer on dash - its edge goes above front plane of dash.
Maybe I will explain it bad, it is hard for me to explain it even in czech and here I have to translate it... :p

misu
03-05-11, 12:04 AM
Anyway, I have to go now, so see you tomorow. Post photos, how successfull you are ;ol;.

rawill
03-05-11, 02:13 AM
Great work - fantastic job!

Question, the covers on the convertible top when the top is down. Is that the tonneau cover you were talking about. I would love to have one for my vert.

B202NUT
03-05-11, 05:45 AM
Anyway, I have to go now, so see you tomorow. Post photos, how successfull you are ;ol;.

thanks misu, your transaltions are clear; I will take the dash out of my N/A and start working with that. Will post up soon.

B202NUT
03-05-11, 05:46 AM
Great work - fantastic job!

Question, the covers on the convertible top when the top is down. Is that the tonneau cover you were talking about. I would love to have one for my vert.

yes sir;ol;...

Mines came with the car.

B202NUT
03-05-11, 05:47 AM
Great work - fantastic job!.


thanks;ol;..

B202NUT
03-05-11, 11:37 AM
As you can see i am dislexic in I am alwasy working on more than one thing at a time:cheesy:.

In a search for the lowest cost for a new top I found this place locally:

Auto Upholstery
Tampa Florida Automobile Seatcovers Tops & Upholstery
Phone: (813) 232-5318
5401 N. Rome Avenue, Tampa, FL 33603-1120
Category: Auto Upholstery

they are a wholesale top supplier for shop installers and they would not talk to me without sending them a corporate tax certificate first. I had my Indy Saab guy call them. Hopefully I can get a top at costs!

Any idea how much a Stayfast top will cost whole sale if retail is $279??

I hope to goodness half!

fingers crossed! :D


I think I struck a cord!!!!!!!!!

My Saab indy shop owner is also restoring his Alfa and needs a top as well; he faxed the credentials to the whole sale distributor and they are calling him back with the wholesale prices:cheesy:.

he thanked me for the number and said he will call as soon as the respond with prices; I am praying i can get this for half the retail costs....

B202NUT
04-05-11, 10:37 PM
I had another go at the veneer cut for the glove box face. After viewing misus dash I felt a cleaner look would be to have the veneer met the edges of the face.

Here is the finished cut; It was not glued down yet

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/veneer3-1.jpg?t=1304562612

I did three test sheets of veneer to get a feel for the application. I am using an oil based stain and it seems like wipe on and immediately wiping off is the way to go.

B202NUT
04-05-11, 10:43 PM
I am using a cheap backing (file hanign folders; however, i think its best because it allows alot of flexibility on the veneer. had I not used the backing I would have brokn the cut many times over. hee is a shot of the back of the veneer:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/veneer2-3.jpg?t=1304563156

Front

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/veneer1-1.jpg?t=1304563257

Han Choi
05-05-11, 01:03 PM
I had the back piece replaced on my vert for $600. You are biggest deal finder I have ever seen :cheesy:

B202NUT
05-05-11, 02:44 PM
I had the back piece replaced on my vert for $600. You are biggest deal finder I have ever seen :cheesy:

I never buy on impulse, alwasy shop for less and haggle and barder as much as i can;

but as far as the top is concerned that was no secret:

H.) Haartz Stayfast Canvas Main Top Section Only
For: 1986-94 Saab 900 & 900S Convertible Top Select One Beige Black Burgundy Dark Beige Dark Blue Dark Ruby

View Color (http://www.convertibletopguys.com/images/conv/stayfast.jpg) $279.95

the convertible top guys website lists it for that price all day long. Not sure what you paid $600 for but I do not need the defrost glass and I will install myself. I NEVER EVER pay laobr fees unless absolutely necessary.

My motto is "if the next guy can do it whay can't I"; be both bleed and breathe air right?

misu
05-05-11, 06:37 PM
Sorry, that I disturbing you, but... Can You find (and buy) walnut burlwood veneer? It would be much better, than an ordinary one... If you do it as preciselly as we everybody can see, why do not use original material as manufacturer used? Just an idea... Try to seachr for that veneer, I could find it even here, in Czech (what is much harder than in your country, I think...)

Han Choi
05-05-11, 07:25 PM
the convertible top guys website lists it for that price all day long. Not sure what you paid $600 for but I do not need the defrost glass and I will install myself. I NEVER EVER pay laobr fees unless absolutely necessary.

My motto is "if the next guy can do it whay can't I"; be both bleed and breathe air right?

I needed my rear glass replaced, and the parts had to be shipped in from another warehouse. I am now very aware that I overpaid.

B202NUT
05-05-11, 09:34 PM
Sorry, that I disturbing you, but... Can You find (and buy) walnut burlwood veneer? It would be much better, than an ordinary one... If you do it as preciselly as we everybody can see, why do not use original material as manufacturer used? Just an idea... Try to seachr for that veneer, I could find it even here, in Czech (what is much harder than in your country, I think...)


I plan to do that very thing;ol;; here are 2 reasons why I did not do it on the first run (believe me, my hands were itching not to grab it!)

1. Burlwood was about $60 for the amount of walnut I paid $16.

2. This is my first try ever working with wood, not to mention as a delicate cut as veener; everything I have done was first try EvER. I think I skipped shop class in high school:lol:.

I wouldn't want to mess around and waste good veener with my inexperience. $16 is not so bad to part with; this dash will eventually end up in my N/A :) ..

You and I know that Burlwood is what factory used but the average Joe sees a classic car with a nice custom dash and glovebox.

Remember I have 2 Saab 900. Once this job is complete I will pull the other dash and do the job even easier as I have the template for the entire dash:

Plus I like the lines in the wood pictured below and I was sure to make them flow straight across the dash;you notice the more defined portions of the wood are towards the top of the dash and the glove box. Using the inlay method the lines would not be so defined but I believe now that I have taken your suggestion you will see more lineage and definition from the wood.

By the way, your suggestion worked a treat, here I am so far.

The glove box is already glued down and you can see the lines are clean.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/dashcut-2.jpg?t=1304644622

Notice on the main dash, I used your suggestion and used the entire dashboard for my template AND I cut out the warning light.

All the inner cuts you see are smaller than the actual space as it leaves room for me to sand the egdes true. The`dash edges are about 1/8 outside the edges for proper sanding.

Thank for the tips and the pictures misu;ol;.

You can see the dash is going to have very clean edges... Never realized how much that little lip around the dash takes soo much away.

B202NUT
05-05-11, 09:42 PM
I needed my rear glass replaced, and the parts had to be shipped in from another warehouse. I am now very aware that I overpaid.


in that situation if I wasnt going to install myself, I would have bought all the bits online and then brought evrything to the best shop with the most reasonable labor charges. I am sure they upsold you on the glass AND charged the normal shop rate.:cry:

The warehouse it was shipped from was some online shop you could have ordered from as well.

B202NUT
05-05-11, 10:05 PM
? It would be much better, than an ordinary one... If you do it as preciselly as we everybody can see,)


Since we are sparying the car black wife said she doesn't want an ebony dash. We are getting rid of the grey seats and putting the leather I got out of the 9000. They are of a peanut butter color and feel like a "Lazy Boy".

Not sure if you foreigners have Lazy Boy of Haverty's but they make some of the best leather sofas money can buy. I was sad to have bought the grey set when only a few weeks later I found the other set at the salvage yard

I keep talking about them so here is a pic; I paid $35 for these all four seats:

Front seats came out the 9000 as you see;I have not even cleaned them yet.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/frontseat-2.jpg?t=1304647320

I already did this job on my N/A with velours. I had the auto upholstery shop sew the 9000 skins onto the 900 seat frame; I will do the same with the vert and attempt to keep the arm rest (lets see if I get lucky as no vert I see have one:cool:; from factory anyway).

Rear:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/backseat-1.jpg?t=1304647516

What color dash do you think would go with that? maybe just leave the walnut natural and clear coat it?

B202NUT
06-05-11, 10:37 AM
its only been a few weeks since driving the car daily and I must admit it has been a treat; it is like this car is not 20 years old regarding performance. I get in, turn the key and go! I dont worry about listening for clangs and bangs, the acceleration pedal is sharp and the car has no lag at all!

My wife works at night i during the day and we use the one car as I have not fixed the slave in the N/A yet (gotta use the nuts and bolts method and are in no rush) and since the car has sat 2 years i think its good the car is getting a good workout. the brake pedal has softenend up significantly. I been pulling the park brake on each park and that has helped work things loose again.

When wife takesd the car at night i dont even fret one bit the car will leave her on the road.

basic items like new top, fix leaky exhaust, change all fluids, and fix A/C and Voilia! this car will be like perfect!

This is a faaaaaaar cry from my N/A in every aspect! I am gunna get back in the opther car though and let my wife have the vert to her leasure.

B202NUT
07-05-11, 09:17 PM
Getting closer to finishing with cuts. I did everything by hand using a regular razor blade, somem precision blades here and there, alot of patience, and technique.

The right side (climate control) is almost finished. Just needs some sanding on edges in certain areas.

The left side (head light switch) I only did most of the outlining. Still need to cut spaces for the controls:

As you can see when this this is finaly complete, it will rest on the outer edges (silver strip around the factory dash) oppose to an inlay of the vinyl fascia. I did however leave the vinyl fascia behind the veneer, it was the most logical approach as the veener would not have been flush otherwise.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/dashboardcomplete-1.jpg?t=1304816701

Close up of the mostly done, glovebox cover is complete ready for stain.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/dashboardcomplete2JPG-1.jpg?t=1304817109

turbo1992
08-05-11, 12:05 AM
B202...you really should invest in a dremel tool, especially helpful are the cut off tools.

B202NUT
08-05-11, 06:12 AM
B202...you really should invest in a dremel tool, especially helpful are the cut off tools.

I did a nice job by hand actually. took longer but its how they did it back in the day I am sure:lol:. I have been told I am a glutton for punishment:cheesy:.

thanks though; for sure on the next one, when I use the Burlwood;ol;.

I definately made my share of mistakes and this is why I went with the cheaper walnut for practice.I know all the tricks and what I should have done better.

Sand paper and contact cement were my better friends in this job. The guy at the wood shop told me when its all said and done I will be the only one that will know where the mistakes are. He explained every wood job will have mistakes but the art of deception comes into play big time with woodwork. I honestly feel I did ok and the wife likes it and she can be very critical... I think the glove box looks machined the edges are so sharp:)

B202NUT
08-05-11, 06:34 AM
Since the dash is out I might as well do everything that needs tidying in that area. The mileage gaug on the VDO just stopped working at 172199; at fist the trip counter stopped working but the mileage was still calculating and now the mileage stopped.

My local Indy Saab guy referred me (the repsct I do most work myself and mostly give me advice before suggesting I bring them the car) to the only place here locally certified by the state to repair odometers. He explained there is a spring clip inside the VDO that the trip counter and the mileage are attached and the sping pops loose.

I will take the VDO out once the dash is fully complete and have them repair it.

My local electronics surplus has every color and style LED bulb and resistors; however, they have to be built (soldered). When I removed the climate control panel I noticed the bulbs that fit in back had alot of space to shine, so the bulbs persay do not have to rest inside the stock socket, they can protrude out a but.

My plan is to use the small stock sockets and solder a resistor at the end of the LED and soldering the ends of the resistors to either male post of the socket that connect to the harness.

I think this will work ok and the LEDs are cheap; they sell the bulbs for like .25 and the resistors are even cheaper.

I already have a solder iron and a bunch of extra sockets to play with from salvage yards so I will give it a go.

There is a brown wire and a black wire that run to the stock socket off the dash harness for the bulbs in the climate control panel.

Does anyone know if the brown would be considerd a hot wire and the black a ground (sorry if this is a dumb question)?

I imagine this to be the case and I ask because the LEDs have a positive and negative stem and I dont wanna reverse polarity and screw anything up (I think thats the correct terminology:o, not so god with electircal terms).

Any help would be greatly appreciated; thanks..

rawill
08-05-11, 02:53 PM
When I used leds on my Fiat Uno I put shrink wrap over the led and just pushed them into the slighly larger existing socket. Worked like magic. We can buy leds here with the resistors already soldered on and with long leads to connect them.

B202NUT
08-05-11, 06:10 PM
When I used leds on my Fiat Uno I put shrink wrap over the led and just pushed them into the slighly larger existing socket. Worked like magic. We can buy leds here with the resistors already soldered on and with long leads to connect them.

I just have a problem paying 5-10 per bulb and wait for shipping when the local electronics surplus has all the items to DIY all I have to do is use my brain a bit. This place has a small section of the store suited specificallyfor leds; all shapes sizes and colors; it would be a dis-service to myself to do otherwise.;ol;

B202NUT
08-05-11, 06:24 PM
What a Car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

We took the vert to the Beach today 80 miles round trip on the expressway, and the car performed flawlessly!

the classic cabrio (top down all day), stares from other drivers, speeding with a late model 5 series BMW, and the strenght of the engine and turbo pulling over the cosway to the beach, was all more than a treat on this glorious 92 degree day:cool:.

Wife is in awe of how well the car performed and she is ever so eager to get the car well sorted wih all our plans.


I have read many threads regarding the disliking of the auto gearbox; I have absolutely zero complaints!

this is definately am oversight by many IMHO! at 85 mph I really cannot ask for more than this car delivers and lets be honest how often, for how long does anyone really drive faster than that?

Mods will be done but very simplisitc; nothing requiring to much energy. If i can get a hand full of additional horses from this car that would be plenty; Honestly!

Like Mcdonalds "I'm Lovin It"!

Cheers

To all the chaps moms, wives, and girlfriends with child, I hope you enjoyed your day as much as we did;ol;

misu
08-05-11, 06:58 PM
Getting closer to finishing with cuts. I did everything by hand using a regular razor blade, somem precision blades here and there, alot of patience, and technique.

The right side (climate control) is almost finished. Just needs some sanding on edges in certain areas.

The left side (head light switch) I only did most of the outlining. Still need to cut spaces for the controls:

As you can see when this this is finaly complete, it will rest on the outer edges (silver strip around the factory dash) oppose to an inlay of the vinyl fascia. I did however leave the vinyl fascia behind the veneer, it was the most logical approach as the veener would not have been flush otherwise.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/dashboardcomplete-1.jpg?t=1304816701

Close up of the mostly done, glovebox cover is complete ready for stain.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/dashboardcomplete2JPG-1.jpg?t=1304817109

;ol;

Not necessary to say more... :cool:

B202NUT
08-05-11, 07:54 PM
;ol;

Not necessary to say more... :cool:

thank you kindly; I owe you for the recommondation;ol;; you keep adding fuel to my fire as I am now adding the door cards and speaker grill:cool:.

Those are straight cuts; from what I just went through with the dash, i can do those in my sleep..

B202NUT
08-05-11, 08:22 PM
;ol;

Not necessary to say more... :cool:

I read in your thread where you rebuilt your A/C compressor. On my one (already removed a/c system from the car). the pully on mines is stiff; it wont turn (only slightly). I am thinking the bearings are gone. The PO said the A/C never worked in all the years she owned the cr and I am thinking she simply never recharged the system.

What bits should I be looking to replace inside? are they standard A/C compressor parts I can get from a compressor house?

Is there a special tool to get the pulley off?

B202NUT
09-05-11, 06:22 AM
I needed my rear glass replaced, and the parts had to be shipped in from another warehouse. I am now very aware that I overpaid.

I just had an epiphany; You have a new top and glass and your still experiencing bad leaks when it rains? have you figured out and cured where the leak is yet?

Han Choi
09-05-11, 11:23 AM
I just had an epiphany; You have a new top and glass and your still experiencing bad leaks when it rains? have you figured out and cured where the leak is yet?

I am pretty sure I know what it is, but I am still working on a way to fix it. I only had the back section of mine replaced, and I think I found a small hole where water could be getting in closer to the front. Water only gets in on downpours. Any light rain will leave it unaffected

B202NUT
09-05-11, 11:39 AM
I am pretty sure I know what it is, but I am still working on a way to fix it. I only had the back section of mine replaced, and I think I found a small hole where water could be getting in closer to the front. Water only gets in on downpours. Any light rain will leave it unaffected


the $600 was for the glass only?? (ouch!). Did you use the garden hose and have someone (if not yourself) sit inside and see where the wtaer is coming from?

misu
09-05-11, 07:29 PM
I read in your thread where you rebuilt your A/C compressor. On my one (already removed a/c system from the car). the pully on mines is stiff; it wont turn (only slightly). I am thinking the bearings are gone. The PO said the A/C never worked in all the years she owned the cr and I am thinking she simply never recharged the system.

What bits should I be looking to replace inside? are they standard A/C compressor parts I can get from a compressor house?

Is there a special tool to get the pulley off?

Well, fact is, that I do not remember, how I exactly did it... But, all special tools I have, are hammer and bigger hammer. :cool: And three arms puller. If I remember correctly, You have to removeclutch plate first and then pulley. And it can be done with three screws, screwed into pulley... Anyway, you do not need any special tool and inside isn't any magis, just vanes compressor - very easy and reliable. Bearings are standard, nothing special, as I remember. Anyway, I've removed whole AC system out (I have another cooling option - roof down :lol: ) and all components are for sale ;ol;. Receiver/dryer with pressure switch are new, radiator is new and two of all three hoses are new too. Compressor is preoiled with special oil (I will give a can of it as a bonus), compatible with R134 medium...

Han Choi
09-05-11, 08:31 PM
the $600 was for the glass only?? (ouch!). Did you use the garden hose and have someone (if not yourself) sit inside and see where the wtaer is coming from?

No I have not gotten around to doing that. Once my seat brackets come in I will do it because it will give me another reason to take everything out. As you can see I am the king of overpaying lol. Your vert is lookin better everyday! ;ol;

B202NUT
09-05-11, 10:18 PM
misu has done it again; after viewing the pictures from his triumphant affair, there seem to have been another 1991 SE on site that had the door cards laced in veneer and it looked smashing.

Here is my rendition. I used the same hanging file folders asn backing, and with its added flexibility to the veener the attempt will be to wrap the edges:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/doorcard-1.jpg?t=1304993185

Seems like its gunna be a family affair:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/family-1.jpg?t=1304993673

Rear speaker grills to follow to complete the set. Notice I tried to keep things uniform and all the definition in the wood is towards the top.

B202NUT
09-05-11, 10:50 PM
If I remember correctly, You have to removeclutch plate first and then pulley. And it can be done with three screws, screwed into pulley... ..

I see the three holes in the clutch plate, any suggestions on how to remove it?

misu
09-05-11, 11:25 PM
I see the three holes in the clutch plate, any suggestions on how to remove it?

First remove center nut, then screw three long screws into those holes and tighten them one after another, around a half of turn each after other - they will press clutch plate out. Rest is up to you...

B202NUT
09-05-11, 11:31 PM
First remove center nut, then screw three long screws into those holes and tighten them one after another, around a half of turn each after other - they will press clutch plate out. Rest is up to you...

Got it, thanks;ol;

B202NUT
12-05-11, 08:48 PM
Here is the last piece from the $15.00 bag of veneer I bought. I was sure to only use the more defined portions of the veneer for this application so it will pop rather nice and offset the dash.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/windowcontrol-1.jpg?t=1305247480

This has not been glued down yet or trimmed. Believe it or not it took a very long and grueling time cutting those 4 little holes proper. It is very very easy to cut either to long or to wide and not have a clean finish. I have to be sure to sand lightly not to move any of the edges, but simply clean them up. Too much sanding and they will be out of round and not look proper.

this was my second go at it and it took almost 2 hours to get them as close to perfect by hand. simple razor blade and precision knife is all I used;

B202NUT
12-05-11, 08:53 PM
A lame shot of the Veener:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/VENEER-1.jpg?t=1304228792


This bag was able to provide:


Full Dash
Both Door Cards
Window Control Panel
and Glove box
It also provided enough test material for me to not stain on my own. I have contacted a few cabinet making companies around. I know there business is slow due to the housing slow down and I have 2 appointments to bring them each the pieces for a quote to have them do a professional stain job.

My total investment for the wood job so far is $32.00:cool: including:

veneer
glue
precision blades
and a can of stain that I may not use

rawill
12-05-11, 09:15 PM
Be sure to show us the final job with all the pics of the finished items fitted to the car. Maybe I will get to do it on my vert.

B202NUT
13-05-11, 07:19 AM
Be sure to show us the final job with all the pics of the finished items fitted to the car. Maybe I will get to do it on my vert.


I will be sure to do that; this weekend all pieces will be sanded and cleaned up. I will take a group shot just prior to stain and a final after and of course once all fitted.

I do have a couple small thjings to tend to prior to stain. I will make and fit all the LEDs for the dash and I need to drop the dash off at a local place called "All Things Plastic" as they will repair all the broken loops to secure the fascia in the dash properly.
;ol;

B202NUT
14-05-11, 10:04 PM
Be sure to show us the final job with all the pics of the finished items.

Here is a quick group shot.

The Dash is 100% complete and surface sanded ready for stain

The window control surround and the glove box panel are also 100% done ready for stain; you can see in the pic the items ready for stain are lighter due to surface sanding

The door cards are done, just need surface sanding for stain; the veneer is attached to the card in the picture below. They are very sleek.

The speaker grills need edging and sandng.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/groupveneer-2.jpg?t=1305424362

You can see I used patches for the speaker grill and the line you can see in the lower one will be gone tomorrow when I sand it down.


Last piece for cut is the VDO gauge panel theat will cover the large fuzzy box at the lower center console.

On a classification scale this one was hard. It wasn't painful but time consuming and requires to much precision.

Door cards came out really nice; tomorrow is the big day for staining :cool:...

B202NUT
14-05-11, 10:11 PM
So my good friend works for a tire distributor and I was explaining to him I am in desperate need of soeme 205 55 16's but I am kinda broke at the moment.

He met me at my house yesterday as I returned from work and left these in my garage:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/tires-1.jpg?t=1305425193

He told me to pay him whenever I get the money; I am still smiling;ol;...

They are Futura H rated Touring tires 205 55 16 and I could careless what the reviews are they are new and I am paying roughly nothing for them:cheesy:...

I wont fit these until I get the stiffer springs and shocks for the rear to eliminate the scrub form the 16' Aeros..

B202NUT
14-05-11, 10:56 PM
I was able to grab some LED's from the electronic Surplus Store yesterday/ I grabbed 3 white and 2 green and 3 resistors to see if I can have a go at the instrument panel some time this week

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/LEDs-1.jpg?t=1305427829

misu
15-05-11, 10:57 AM
Here is a quick group shot.

The Dash is 100% complete and surface sanded ready for stain

The window control surround and the glove box panel are also 100% done ready for stain; you can see in the pic the items ready for stain are lighter due to surface sanding

The door cards are done, just need surface sanding for stain; the veneer is attached to the card in the picture below. They are very sleek.

The speaker grills need edging and sandng.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/groupveneer-2.jpg?t=1305424362

You can see I used patches for the speaker grill and the line you can see in the lower one will be gone tomorrow when I sand it down.


Last piece for cut is the VDO gauge panel theat will cover the large fuzzy box at the lower center console.

On a classification scale this one was hard. It wasn't painful but time consuming and requires to much precision.

Door cards came out really nice; tomorrow is the big day for staining :cool:...

It looks good ;ol;. Especially dashboard and glove box cover. By the way, could you better focus your camera? All pictures are slightly out of focus... Try macro settings, for example... I would like to see sharp pictures of your work. I think You can presented it clearly...

B202NUT
15-05-11, 11:22 PM
It looks good ;ol;. Especially dashboard and glove box cover. By the way, could you better focus your camera? All pictures are slightly out of focus... Try macro settings, for example... I would like to see sharp pictures of your work. I think You can presented it clearly...


thanks misu; it has been a great learning process. Working with wood is definately an art. If one thinks it is simply glue and cut they are in for a rude awakening! the last wood project I did was in shop class back in the 80's.

when my wife saw the camera I been using she laughed; apparantly we have a much better camera I didn't know about. I will take some close ups on the next one.

I tried to veneer the shift knob but the rubber does not take to the contact cement. I am thining the only way to make a shift knob surround would be to make a duplicate out of something that the cement will stick to.

B202NUT
15-05-11, 11:39 PM
[QUOTE=misu;2003735]It looks good ;ol;. Especially dashboard and glove box cover. QUOTE]

I was lucky to have the N/A that has a failed slave at the moment; now it is without dashboard and glove box:cheesy:.

I am going to switch them around once I am ready but without it I would only have had the dash inlay as an option. I sincerely appreciate your suggestion becase the full face covered is definately a cleaning more modern look.

As an added fact I am liking the walnut oppose to the burl. The lines in the veneer IMHO add lineage to the interior.

B202NUT
15-05-11, 11:48 PM
So what color should the car be painted, Black or Original Platana Grey?

Wife wants black; I am in the middle. Gery is easier to clean and its original. With only 300 and some odd number of these cars imported to the US mabe I should keep it original?????????

Black is Beautiful, hands Down!!!!!! With Tan Interioer that is Classic Saab.

Now the Veener; what color? I wanted ebony at first but now wife wants a maple color.

That leaves door panels; whether I respray it original or Black with the butterscotch interior and maple wood the door panels have to be either black or tan right?

lotta questions as you can see; advice please...

James Bond
16-05-11, 03:13 AM
Stay with grey! (didn't think about it, just a reaction!).

misu
16-05-11, 03:06 PM
So what color should the car be painted, Black or Original Platana Grey?

Wife wants black; I am in the middle. Gery is easier to clean and its original. With only 300 and some odd number of these cars imported to the US mabe I should keep it original?????????

Black is Beautiful, hands Down!!!!!! With Tan Interioer that is Classic Saab.

Now the Veener; what color? I wanted ebony at first but now wife wants a maple color.

That leaves door panels; whether I respray it original or Black with the butterscotch interior and maple wood the door panels have to be either black or tan right?

lotta questions as you can see; advice please...

What about scarabeus green? With tan interior ;ol; Also midnight blue looks good...

B202NUT
16-05-11, 03:21 PM
What about scarabeus green? With tan interior ;ol; Also midnight blue looks good...


mid night Blue was the color of the 9000 the seats came out from. I never heard of scarabeus green. I need to have a look into that...

you haven't been wrong once yet:cool:...

scarabeus green seems to be a metallic color that fades from green to blue; would that be right?

B202NUT
16-05-11, 10:53 PM
Here is the top hydraulic system and pump all cleaned and ready for installation.

Both the piston tops have new wiper seals and o-rings and the cylinders have been thoroughly cleaned with a new inner seal on one piston.

According to the bentley each piston needs to remain in it's repective side, therefore, they were properly labeled along with the tops and each fluid line.

The fluid lines were flushed with brake cleaner until all the grit and old oil were gone and brake cleaner ran clear (I made sure the bypass valve is closed).

I already mentioned the pump recondition in an earlier post.

The system wont be install, flushed N filled until I can save enough to purchase the new top.

The system had more grit than fluid and everything should be in good working order now (hopefully).

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/hydrapump-1.jpg?t=1305600121

B202NUT
18-05-11, 12:27 AM
A lady at my place of employment drives a Pontiac G6 and it is a blue metallic with gold in it. It looks really nice and the hint of gold will look good against a tan interior.

So when I got home and settled for the evening I did a search; comes to find out the color is called "Blue Gold Crystal Metallic".

I found a pointac G6 vert and I think that color on a C900 would look very good with body cladding painted stock, Aeros, and clear indicators about (painting the stock yellow rear brake light red).

What do you think? not to far from Platana grey and a bit more exciting than black; kinda like a happy medium.

I would paint the tonneau same color as the car with the tan interior and wood grain.


http://images.dealerrevs.com/pictures/17024035.jpg

rawill
18-05-11, 12:57 AM
mid night Blue was the color of the 9000 the seats came out from. I never heard of scarabeus green. I need to have a look into that...

you haven't been wrong once yet:cool:...

scarabeus green seems to be a metallic color that fades from green to blue; would that be right?

I am sure that is the colour of my 93 griffin.

Colour is personal, what every you want.

B202NUT
21-05-11, 11:21 AM
A few things on the list for this evenig and tomorrow for the Vert:

Finish Sanding the interior wood pieces for stain; I switched to "Mulled Cider" for the stain. It is a custom Cabot mix.

Install VDO gauges (oil pressure, Volt meter) still need to aquire a boost guage.

Pull the A/C condensor to flush and prep for the air recon from the N/A to be installed in the vert which is already R134 and a fully reconditioned compressor thats been going strong almost 2 years now.

Oil leaks periodically from the filter housing; I am going to pull it and swap the pressure guage for the VDO one and hopefully that will cure my pissy oil filter housing. Seems to only opccur during really hot days while driving only; no leakage while standing or idle.

Will update pics tomorrow after all is done.

Cheers

B202NUT
21-05-11, 10:59 PM
After a full month driving this car daily, 3 weak spots have appeared.

1. First issue I dealt with today was a faulty oil pressure warning sensor. I am not sure how the ambient temps play a part here; however, the fault was noticed one hot day last week after pulling into a park spot. When I came back out there was a small pool of oil on the pavement and my driverside of the engine where the axle runs through was full of oil. At least a puddle to big for my liking.

I let the car idle and when the fan came on the engine rpms revved and I was able to witness the oil purcilate from the brass post. The vdo gauge panel is carbon fiber and I am going to leave it as is and see how it meshes with the rest of the interior before I decide whether or not it will get a sheet of veneer.

Crappy Pics:(

As you can see from its shape we eliminate the lower storage box for a more clean center cockpit appeal :) ..

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/vdo-1.jpg?t=1306031442

Oil pressure sender post for vdo gauge and warning light in dash: I had to solder the post on the left back on. It broke some months ago.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/sender-1.jpg?t=1306032116

hopefully this repair will seal things back up nice and tight and I pray my solder work made a good enough contact to work the gauge. New O-rings will go on the oil cooling line connections.

B202NUT
26-05-11, 09:13 PM
Here is an update of my wood work. This is a goup shot of everything sanded from 150 to 800 grit paper.

Here is one thing I can promise you guys; I wont ever be doing this again!


http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/groupshot-1.jpg?t=1306458424

B202NUT
26-05-11, 09:22 PM
Here is a close up of the dash; sorry for the out of focus camera but it gives an idea of the detail that went into the job.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/dashshot-1.jpg?t=1306459018

B202NUT
26-05-11, 09:30 PM
Speaker panel

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/speakergrill-1.jpg?t=1306459579

You can see I even was able to get the notch to properly seat the light....

B202NUT
26-05-11, 09:37 PM
Door card:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/doorcard2-1.jpg?t=1306460017

B202NUT
26-05-11, 09:47 PM
Glove box and window control surround:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/glove-1.jpg?t=1306460501

B202NUT
26-05-11, 09:51 PM
I am finally ready to stain. After several test stains we decided on a stain mix called "mulled cider". Saturday after work I will pick up the stain. Due to it being a oil based stain which is better quality the coats can only be applied once every 24 hours, so it should take about 5 days for everything to be done including finish.

B202NUT
26-05-11, 10:14 PM
The last repair for the weekend will be the steering shaft bushings and bearing.

I have a Saab dealer about 3 miles from my job and they know me pretty well over there; I was able to pick these up today for the repair. If you have any vertical play in your steering wheel this is the repair you need done. There is a lock washer not pictured below that is also required for the repair. I have it as well..

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/steeringrepair-1.jpg?t=1306461768

I stopped in to the Indy Saab shop and the master mechanic explained to me how to remove the airbag without cause or triggering the SRS light in the dash. This should be a 2 hour job tops...

According to the saabsite FAQ's this repair improves the overall steering feel and road feedback..

B202NUT
26-05-11, 10:27 PM
when I had the VDO gauge for oil pressure in the NA it never bounced like it does in the turbo. Today on the way to work I noticed it was past 100psi mark; is this telling me anything significant?

Well, the oil pressure sender was definately the cause of the oil leak I had last week. everything is nice and tidy now with no leaks.

misu
27-05-11, 07:03 AM
Your woodwork looks perfect. I will order some burlwood veneer right now, for glove box and windows switches. Maybe for door cards, too.
But first of all I have to do something with dashboard - leather? Or vinyl...

B202NUT
27-05-11, 09:28 AM
Your woodwork looks perfect. I will order some burlwood veneer right now, for glove box and windows switches. Maybe for door cards, too.
But first of all I have to do something with dashboard - leather? Or vinyl...


I say leather hands down; thanks for the compliment in the veneer;ol;

you will find the glove box and the door cards are very easy! the dash was a beast all of its own...

misu
27-05-11, 09:53 AM
I say leather hands down; thanks for the compliment in the veneer;ol;

you will find the glove box and the door cards are very easy! the dash was a beast all of its own...

I know, I know... But I have an original one! ;ol;

B202NUT
27-05-11, 09:56 AM
I know, I know... But I have an original one! ;ol;


I thought I saw one in your car already; would you replace it with veneer covering edges?

misu
27-05-11, 11:24 AM
I thought I saw one in your car already; would you replace it with veneer covering edges?

No, it was "cheap" vinyl only. I will renovate whole interior this winter, I think... And I decided to leave automatic tranny inside a car for a couple of months. I just set up kick-down...

B202NUT
27-05-11, 03:35 PM
And I decided to leave automatic tranny inside a car for a couple of months. I just set up kick-down...

;ol;

I know its been testified over and over how good the manual is but honestly i would not rather have this car in anything but autobox; it just fits with the other luxuries of the vehicle.

Plus clutching and braking doesn't not coincide with cruise control IMHO; I never understood CC and a stick shift vehicle; sounds counter intuitive to me:o..

B202NUT
27-05-11, 09:31 PM
Stay with grey! (didn't think about it, just a reaction!).


the first unconscious thought is usually the best one;ol;; and they gray is growing on me alot these days; i think it would be easier to work with the gray paint as I plan to do the job myself. Plenty room in the garage to spray. I have also been inquiring about renting a booth. A frined of mines told me to check with places that spary trucks as thier business is alot slower than automobile body shops and I can probably get a booth to rent for a fair price..

B202NUT
29-05-11, 01:53 AM
Here s the 1st coat of varnsh; we went wth a natural walnut color after all:o; think it looks good. This was a stain and poly mixed product. I applied it on thick, got nervous and wiped it off. So what your looking at is a wipe coat of stain and poly mix. I used a natural brush and I am going to switch to a foam applicator tomorrow to see if I can get a thin even coat. for the fnal finish. I think it will be appropriate to paint the glove box trim black when I am done.

I really appreciate the lineage and bold definition of the walnut veneer; I am not a wood craftsman but I have come to learn the trade is truly an art!

The beauty is in the eye of the beholder and there are no wrongs; I have also come to learn the craftsman is hs own worst critic!

I have seen several pictures of the early 99's and they had a strip of what appeared to be walnut runnng across the dash; here is my commemorative honor to the Classic 99's on steriods :cool:!

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/1stcoat-1.jpg?t=1306648228 (http://javascript<b></b>:void(0);)

I believe this shade, even a tone darker will prove promsing with the gray or peanut butter interior. I want to keep the gray seats, but when comparing the comfort of them to the other set; there simply is no comparison! The other set was removed from a 95 9000 that looked like they had barely been sat in. The gray seats in the vert now are an upgrade from what was originally in the car but not nearly as soft or comfortable as the other set. I really dont want to have to change the carpet and all the panels but that just may have to be done.

B202NUT
29-05-11, 02:16 AM
Removing the airbag is very simple; dsconnect the battery:cheesy:; Bentley makes it seems as if its a big dealer only job.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/steeringwheel-1.jpg?t=1306649044

After removing 2 30torx bolts:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/arbag-1.jpg?t=1306649208

Steering wheel and horn ring removed:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/steerngrod-1.jpg?t=1306649326

Bad bearing, lock washer, and broken shaft bushing removed from shaft.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/badbearng-1.jpg?t=1306649447

New bearing and shaft bushng to eliminate vertical play in steering shaft.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/newbearing-1.jpg?t=1306649617

New Bearing and Bushing pressed in and Seated (no more vertical play in steering shaft):

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/newbearingseated-1.jpg?t=1306649747

B202NUT
29-05-11, 02:26 AM
Overall benefts of this repair are thankless but was very necessary. Left as it was, the horn ring, which controls the horns and has the airbag contact was eventually going to be damaged and that is a very expensive part!

As it was, making turns had random tight spots and felt wobbly. Now everything is firm and steering response is smoother. The average person expects this from an automobile thats why I said it's a thankless repair, but nonetheless one off my checklist.

When the Indy mechanic explained how to remove the airbag I asked how long do they bill for the job? he said, "2 hours" so I saved $190... Genuine Saab parts were only $41.00

Han Choi
29-05-11, 10:40 PM
Removing the airbag is very simple; dsconnect the battery:cheesy:; Bentley makes it seems as if its a big dealer only job.



Really? So all I need to do is disconnect the battery and I'm safe? I need to reset my steering wheel because it is not perfectly centered and its bothering me.

B202NUT
29-05-11, 11:28 PM
Really? So all I need to do is disconnect the battery and I'm safe? I need to reset my steering wheel because it is not perfectly centered and its bothering me.

Yes, the instruction I recieved was straight forward, and if you follow it, the SRS warning light WILL NOT illuminate when your done.

Procedure:

1. Disconnect neg bat. cable
2. Remove 2 30 torx bolts at the back of your steering wheel. I recommend a torx driver oppose to a socket bit, unless its long.

The bolts do not come out from the rear of the steering wheel, simply loosen them.

3. Once the bolts are loose, gently pull the airbag from the steering wheel. At the back of the airbag is a white electrical connector. Take a flat skinny screw driver and gently pry out the connector; put the air bag in the back seat

4. There is a black connector for the horn contacts, you need to seperate that as well.

5.Take note of the horn ring behind the steering wheel, you need to put ot back exactly where it come from; I made a small mark at its top and on the dash.

6. Loosen the 21mm nut holding the steering wheel to the steering shaft. don't remove it; loosen it a few mm up so you create space between the nut and the steering wheel.

7. Grab the steering wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock and set your feet firmly and wiggle the steering wheel back and forth until it loosens. The reason you dont remove the bolt is so you dont smash yourself in the face with the steerng wheel:lol:.

8. Now remove bolt and remove steering wheel.

The rest is up to whatever your gunna do while your in there. Be very careful to put the horn ring face back where it was and leave slack in the slinky of wire.

If you don't, the very first time you turn the wheel full turn either way you will break the horn ring. The horn ring has the airbag and horn electrical connectors and is very expensive.

Its an 1 hour to 90 minute job. Install is reversal and Perform the job at your own risk; it was as smooth as pie for me, however, I suggest you visit your nearest Authorized Saab Dealer to remove the airbag:cheesy:...

B202NUT
29-05-11, 11:37 PM
I need to reset my steering wheel because it is not perfectly centered and its bothering me.


that would be an ailignment wouldn't it?

B202NUT
30-05-11, 09:42 PM
Well the car had some TLC this holiday weekend; things that are not evident to the naked eye but the car is better for.

I was told by the Indy shop when they tuned the car the speed sensor on the driverside ws bad. I decided to clean it and see if that will ut out ABS Light.

I started out only cleaning the speed sensor and ended up doing all this:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/wheelwell-1.jpg?t=1306805787

I know the car is about 5 pounds lighter as the dirt, grit, and oil was really thick.

I was able to clean both sensors and am going back to the indy shop to see if they clear the code will that put the ABS light out.

then did real professional quality coolant flush. I went through the block drain plug (which is far easier to get too than my NA. I flushed the radiator, and removed the res and cleaned it thoroughly. I flushed everything until it ran clear! 3 times

Since the Mercedes Dealer was closed today I went with Dextron GM approved reddish/orange coolant. Now the res tank is red oppose to muddy green.

If you dont flush through the block your wasting time on a flush!

I already posted the steering wheel fix in an earlier post.

B202NUT
30-05-11, 09:47 PM
Well its been while since I posted a shot of the car and here she is: took ths tonight at the petrol station. She seems to have appreciated all the attention she got ths weekend. And to think the car hasn't been painted and all the black trim iand cladding are still ashy and she looks pretty up beat.'

Slowly getting her back to stock specs and my day with the keys are aslo numbered as the wife made it clear after the resto is done, I need to swiftly get back in my NA...

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/Updatedpic-1.jpg?t=1306806125

We decided to spray the car the same color;We are really liking the grey. A few things will be done to burst the color including:

Tan leather interior and tan top; getting rid of the black:cool:.

Also I am thinking if the tonneau will look good painted the same color as the car?????

Considering the car was this just 4 months ago; broken down and being destroyed by the elements:


http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/91Vert-1.jpg?t=1297471850

B202NUT
30-05-11, 09:51 PM
Here is the first look at the veener;

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/speakergrill-2-1.jpg?t=1306806540

That is a shaded picture and honestly the clear came out to shiny for my liking; I am going to wet sand it back to a dull finsh and get a clear that is less shiny. and I need a better brush as I got streaks in some of the clear coats on other pieces. All in the name of learning. At least I can sand down and go at it again...

I am going to try and thin the stain and clear I am using to see if that will give the finish I am looking for and get a quality brush. I used a cheap one and got streaks. that could have also been attributed to having the clear to thick. I will have another go at it this week.

B202NUT
30-05-11, 10:04 PM
So here s whats in the immediate future:


Get Wood finished and back in car (all 7 pieces)
Fit Tan Interior
Dye carpet and Door panels light gray
Eliminate Rear wheel scrub
A/C
Change Engine oil, ATF oil, Differential Oil,
FLush n Fill Power Steering fluid
Repair Torn Tie Rod Boot
These things will get all the tuning and interior done; then I can work on the exterior and top :cool:...

I am going to add up my reciepts tonight, but I dont think we breached the $3,000 yet.

This will be a "Wheeler Dealer" Episode part #2 of the Saab 900...

B202NUT
01-06-11, 10:10 AM
Well I was so displeased with my ability to finish the veneer; I sanded down the pieces and took them to a cabinet maker this morning. He should have them back to me within a week and he indicated he would make me happy:lol:

i'll post up the pics when i get them back; this digs into the budget as I was under $40 for the veneer job, but if it doesn't look nice when done then it was a waste, so i think the added investment for a professional finish is warranted at this juncture;)..


Cheers,

B202NUT
04-06-11, 11:35 PM
I started to prepare the tan leather seats for installation. There was not a practical way to keep the armrest so the extra hides gave me an idea to break up the custom woodwork with leather and add some feng shui to the cabin:cool:.

here is a shot of the hides, they were like new as if just from the leather shop:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/hides-1.jpg

After drilling out the rivets for the door handles I did this:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/doorh2-1.jpg

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/doorh3-1.jpg


Not sure why Saab didn't do this from stock but it would have made sense:

now I paint the rest of the handles. I found a chrome/aluminum spray paint for the trim:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/doorh4-1.jpg

900t
05-06-11, 01:05 AM
Really? So all I need to do is disconnect the battery and I'm safe? I need to reset my steering wheel because it is not perfectly centered and its bothering me.

should give it maybe 30 mins to discharge caps

make sure if the steering wheel is off that it really is. You might just have an alignment problem at the tie-rods. In fact unless you installed the steering wheel "off" before, I would only adjust it at the tie rods.

I had the worn plastic piece on mine and did the job and the satisfaction in driving the car afterward was seriously improved. It only took me maybe 20 minutes in the car to change it but it made it so much more pleasant to drive.

For removing steering wheels, I like to pull it from the bottom and hold it with my knees, then just tug from the top. During the tug you'll eventually pull the wheel perfectly perpendicular to the shaft and it will slide right out of the taper like butter. Usually :p

B202NUT
05-06-11, 03:55 AM
should give it maybe 30 mins to discharge caps

make sure if the steering wheel is off that it really is. You might just have an alignment problem at the tie-rods. In fact unless you installed the steering wheel "off" before, I would only adjust it at the tie rods.

I had the worn plastic piece on mine and did the job and the satisfaction in driving the car afterward was seriously improved. It only took me maybe 20 minutes in the car to change it but it made it so much more pleasant to drive.

For removing steering wheels, I like to pull it from the bottom and hold it with my knees, then just tug from the top. During the tug you'll eventually pull the wheel perfectly perpendicular to the shaft and it will slide right out of the taper like butter. Usually :p

yes it was a quick rewarding job for the DIYer, no one else will appreciate the work as everyone expects a car to feel as it does after the repair;ol;...

B202NUT
05-06-11, 04:47 AM
I realized one of the best ways to break up the custom woodwork and keep things nice and soft for the wife was to add a piece of the beautiful leather hide to the glovebox. I am lucky to have 2 Saabs so I pulled the other glove box and made the insert. This really really pops the interior and will be a pleasant compliment to everything we are doing. My NA will get the wood glove box as this leather one I cut gives a rich auroa to the cabin in the Vert:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/glovebox-1.jpg

Additional items getting leather facing:


VDO gauge panel
the bezels around the lights in the rear seat speaker surround
Rear Ash Tray
Gear lever Knob
If you have an imaginationn like me ( I still day dream) you can see how this will all flow together in the end.

Flow Across the Dash Board from left to right


Driver side custom wood door card with tan leather door pull~ Custom wood dash ~ Tan leather glovebox insert ~ Passenger side Custom wood door card with tan leather door pull...


Center Console View from Dash flowing down through to back Astray

Custom Wood Dash ~ Tan leather VOD gauge facing ~ custom wood window control surround ~ Tan leather rear ashtray covering

Back Seat View from left to right

Driver side Custom wood speaker grill with tan leather bezel around rear speaker lights ~ tan Leather Ashtray facing ~ Passenger side Custom wood speaker grill with tan leather bezel around rear speaker lights

Remember when I set the wood I set all the bold definition of the veneer at the top flowing from right to left.

None of this makes any sense to most of us guys but it matters from a visual perspective when you want things t flow and not lok bunched up ot thrown together.

I want to try my best to make it appear this came from stock, so the clean lines and the flow of the cabin is important. Hopefully this will all be evident once I get it all together.

When my wife pulls around in this car it needs to represent an exclusive example of the Saab 900!

B202NUT
05-06-11, 05:35 AM
Sorry if this project is taking a long time to get into some of the areas that inspire many guys most like Boost upgrades and extreme Dyno stuff.

This project is basically cleaning up a very neglected car for a woman that swore on everything that lives she would never drive, "The Roach":cheesy:.

I am very meticulous and patient in my approach with most all things and usually only work one section of the car at a time; engine always being first. Coupled with me doing this design on a dime I can only strike when deals are had and after I completely measure out the process as I try to do most everything myself and cringe when I have to seek professionl help and endure labor fees!

This car was an extreme blessing because as I cleaned back the dirt and neglect there was literally a fully loaded, everything functional, not harmed Classic Special Edition Saab 900 SE Vert underneath:cool:!

After a really good service and some time with the Indy specialist I have not had to spend much time in the engine. I don't have a boost gauge but the car boost right into the middle of the yeallow on the APC gauge with no problem and its pull is strong.

No hiccups, no bangs, no clunks; sincerely it drives as nice as it looks in the petrol shot above ( with all humility;)).

The suspension is in great shape and besides a torn tie rod boot on the passenger side all the bushings are in order.

I plan to freshen some things up in the suspension but all in all we obtained an extremely good car for a fist full of bills and a hand shake!

This car should have fetched $3,000 without a bat of an eye!

(jetman's outtro rings sweet music in my ear.)

Before his hiatus from SC one of his suggestions to any one wanting to buy a Saab was to save and buy the best Saab one can afford as buying a car and having to rebuild the tranny or drop an engine right away is not how one should initially experience these cars, if at all.

It is arguabley the best piece of advice I ever seen offered to anyone in this forum in the 2 years I been a memeber!

In my case, I obtained one of the better Saabs money can buy; for very little money! :cool:)...

This gives me an opportunity to get into cosmetics right away as its the only place the car was really lacking, and making it a car she will jump in and not even realize its not an Audir A4 or a Volvo S80 :) .. (those are the cars she was looking at).

Also my wife has always wanted a Vert since she was a little girl, so this car will be like a dream com true and therefore it needs to be very very nice; hopefully she will kep it for a long time.

So I hope you guys ( and gals) can appreciate my efforts and eventually things will start to pull together.

Cheers,

B202NUT
05-06-11, 06:54 PM
Here is the leather pieces completed: clean lines make for a factory finish. No lose fittings, no gaps, or saggy leather; everything is as tight as a glove!

Last thing to grab out is the emergency brake lever..

pictured:

VDO Gauge panel (was carbon fiber)
Rear Ashtray
Rear SPeaker lights
Front Door Handles

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/leatherbunch-1.jpg

Here is a shot of the glove box insert layed in:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/dashpiece-1.jpg

Looks like I will be commiting to re-wrapping the entire dashboard in something... As you can see the leather in the glove box will break up the wood very nicely...

One more notch for the "Wheeler Dealer", as these jobs were free:

Leather = Arm rest from 9000 upholstery
Razor Blades = in garage
Contact Cement= In garage
Sweat Equity = well that's priceless

Total investment= $Time$

QuickOrange
06-06-11, 12:18 PM
Those leather pieces look damn nice! I don't know that I'm a fan of the wood trim, but altogether I think it's going to be extremely sharp looking. I can't wait to see the finished product.

B202NUT
06-06-11, 01:41 PM
Those leather pieces look damn nice! I don't know that I'm a fan of the wood trim, but altogether I think it's going to be extremely sharp looking. I can't wait to see the finished product.


If this is any indication of whats to be expected then I imagine the wood will turn out just fine:

Two shots from meeting. This condition of seats is what I am aiming for. My leather is just about the same colour. The car appears to be grey as well...

http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/albums/album1502/P1210015.sized.jpg


thanks for the compliment;ol;...

QuickOrange
06-06-11, 06:24 PM
That picture definitely has a clean, stock look to it, which is always refreshing with these sorts of things. I don't know if I'm a fan, but I can certainly appreciate a job well done. Seems to me there are too many people who just ruin the look of a car's interior by not taking the time to really plan these things out.

I'm most impressed with those seats though. They look brand new! Color me jealous of whoever owns that car!

B202NUT
15-06-11, 07:57 PM
And planning is exactly what I been doing. Enough planning that the wife has decided against any tan interior in the car. So I wont bore you guys with the alternative but i will be posting the outcome here soon.

The veneer is getting its last coat of clear and i pick them up on Friday and will then execute the plan of attack. Basically we will keep things all grey on the interior and add the wood with black trim.

I will list the seats for sale along with an SPG kit to the highest bidder on evil bay:D..

Vert Top Motor:

I couldn't get the pump to run after the refurb. I took it to an auto electrician and they bench tested the armature and it can be salvaged:cheesy:.

he simply needs to re-solder the armature, and a few contact points inside the motor, then he has to replace the insulated rivets I drilled out when I refurbed the pump, cut new brushes, and the top will be as good as new. This costs me $80 beans but I get to salvage the original pump and that is a plus for me.

Once I get the top pump and pistons installed, add the wood and trim pieces, I move on to recoloring the grey seats and conditioning them with honey. They should come out like new.

Pics to follow soon

I really wanted to use the tan interior as that color is true classic Saab but its just not practical and wife made me realize we need to streamline the spending to whats necessary oppose to whats desired. I must admit she is correct. The tan seats will now go to the highest bidder and I am not happy about letting them go but its the more practical thing to do so they are being offered for sale. The proceeds from the SPG kit I was gunna install on my NA and these seats will go towards paint.

misu
16-06-11, 08:21 PM
:nono;Do not sell the interior!!! :nono;
You will miss it! Remember me, I've sold my car one year ago. And I've missed it right after that! But someone up there likes me, so I could buy it back...
Convertible is about fun and joy, or you can buy an ordinary car with hard top. Maybe some pick-up - you can use it not just for personal transport but for cargo, too :cool:.

B202NUT
19-06-11, 08:10 PM
Made some detail changes this weekend. The wife said the tan leather door handles and rear speaker light surrounds were tacky:o: She requested black instead.

She also said the rubber shift knob felt clamy and she wanted something done with it.

I had two different textures of black vinyl laying around the garage. One is a soft vinyl with no print the other is a more dense material with a leather like print.

I used the print fabric on the door handles and the soft material on the shift knob. Here is the results, She feels the black will be more of a dealer worthy look and not take away from the car.

"she had a point".

If you look closely I also wrapped the accordian fitting in front of the shifter in the same fabric.

Shift knob I made, looks factory, I am going to put a piece of veneer on the top. It feels 100% better than stock and the accordian piece just makes things feel sporty:

I did leave a couple of the tan leather pieces, I thin k these compliment the wood and grey leather nicely:cool:.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/shiftknob-2.jpg



Door handles and rear speaker lights done over. I polished up the yellow lenses. Again I tried to make them clean and tight as if from the dealer that way.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/redodrhndls-1.jpg

Here is the center console coming alive:cool:: I also wrapped the emergency brake in the same material as the shif knob. Again one would never know it didn't come from stock unless they know Saab's.

I wiped the black paint of the window control knobs so the full circle is nice and clean and I like the brighter green lighting at night as a result and did the same with the top control knob;ol;.



http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/centec-1.jpg

seats will get complete recoloring.

B202NUT
20-06-11, 01:58 AM
[QUOTE=misu;2021672]:nono;Do not sell the interior!!! :nono;
You will miss it! Remember me, I've sold my car one year ago. And I've missed it right after that! But someone up there likes me, so I could buy it back...
Convertible is about fun and joy, or you can buy an ordinary car with hard top. Maybe some pick-up - you can use it not just for personal transport but for cargo, too :cool:.[/QUOTE


I agree totally; I am going to put them away and see of she changes her mind; or I find a turbo hatch or another vert and put them in:cool:.

cwrighta70
19-07-11, 11:24 AM
New bearing and shaft bushng to eliminate vertical play in steering shaft.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/newbearing-1.jpg?t=1306649617

New Bearing and Bushing pressed in and Seated (no more vertical play in steering shaft):

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/newbearingseated-1.jpg?t=1306649747

I'm SO glad I saw this post. I was wondering what I was going to do to get rid of the "vertical play" as you so perfectly described it.

Where did you get the new bearing and bushing, B202?

B202NUT
19-07-11, 11:47 AM
I'm SO glad I saw this post. I was wondering what I was going to do to get rid of the "vertical play" as you so perfectly described it.

Where did you get the new bearing and bushing, B202?


thanks for checking this thread out cwrighta70; I picked mines up directly from Saab dealer becasue I didn't wanna wait for shipping. You can get them from the Saabsite or eeuroparts as well I am sure...

The fix is really easy and should only take about 1/2 ( now looking back).

the only thing to be careful of is the clock/horn ring. You need to be sure the slinky of wiring goes back exactly as it was or the first time you turn the wheel from lock to lock you will snap it and lose your horn and trrigger the SRS light (if you have an airbag).

really easy fix otherwise and makes steering response much better.

best of Luck;ol;

B202NUT
19-07-11, 11:49 AM
havent updated any piccys yet of the wood dash and the converted ash tray to cell phone holder as the charging cord to the computer snapped and I need to get a new one.

I will update all tasks as soon as i pick up a new charging cord for the laptop...

Cheers,,,

cwrighta70
19-07-11, 03:39 PM
havent updated any piccys yet of the wood dash...

Do you have the wood dash fascia installed yet?? Get that computer cord soon, I'm dying to know how it looks!

B202NUT
25-07-11, 12:10 PM
Do you have the wood dash fascia installed yet?? Get that computer cord soon, I'm dying to know how it looks!


yes wood dashn is in; but computer cord is still broken:cry:; need to order one from manufactrer as its an older laptop.

B202NUT
25-07-11, 12:16 PM
No piccys yet but cosmetics have stopped and I am tearing down the engine to do the head gasket job.

Wife and I taklked and with 180K and no indication the head gasket has been replaced we decided its a good maintenance procedure so she wont be left on the road one day by chance. We have a slow coolant loss and no signs of a leak anywhere so my guess is I might be loosing a bit into a cylinder.

If the gasket proves to still be in good nick then its maintenance and I wont have to worry about it for another 180K at least.

I also added lights in the door panels facing down towards the storage in the door, and also added lights at the carpeted box behind the console to see the floor at night. The vert is so bloody dark!

The lights at the door panels I pulled from NG 93's map lights and the lights behind the center console I took from 2 C900 trunk lights. They are just small enough and have a switch .

All lights will be wired to come on when the fdoors are opened as they do now, and each will work individually. The light in the passenger door will be controlled by the driver side only to eliminate someone leaving it on and killing a battery. Everything has been installed and routed, just need to be wored.

Since I added so many light (6 total) I want it done professionally so I get the circutis proper. I also added 2 lights from c900 center doem light under each rear passenger seat. Pictures say a 1000 words but can't post em yet...

I also picked up a APC to modify after the head job is done.

B202NUT
01-08-11, 07:42 AM
To keep this short and simple, the car need either a rebuilt short block or a new short block.

Piston three got so hot it peeled its top back. I have the head off and looks like what I thought was a gasket job is going to require deeper travel into the abyss.

So here is my question; with a warped piston, is it best to source a new short block or dismantle the short block and replace the blown piston?

my indy guy says to buy a new short block but I am leaning towards fixing the piston to eliminate the search.

any suggestions?

PS I just checked the saabsite and eeuroparts and neither of them sell pistons; saabsite lists them as unavailable. does this mean they are only avalaible in the aftermarket or do i simply need to source a short block in good nick?

B202NUT
01-08-11, 12:47 PM
Located a short block in a 1990 Turbo in the salvage yard. They want $250 and I have to pull it myself. Getting the tool box ready for Saturday!

here we go into the abyss

many things will be touched at this point:


remove the rack and re seal new TR boots
rebuild turbo (might as well)
replace the short block
Crank pully & seal and rear main
New radiator
Oil Cooler lines need rebuilding
Timing Chain and guides
Upper Control Arm bushings
Torque Converter seal
Extreme engine cleaning!

basically anything one would want to get at with the engine in situ I will attempt to touch.......

I have alwasy wanted to work on a Sab engine outside the car and this is my chance. I might as well take my time and get to everything possible.

This will all be done over time so dont expect me to be done in a week but I will post many many piccys along the way.

its gunna be a looong haul back to cosmetics but the mechanicals come first!

Here we go gints!

B202NUT
01-08-11, 01:45 PM
Well i just spoke with a reputable engine house thats german experienced, and they suggest before I buy a short block to remove the camshaft, and pistons, and bring them the block.

they will acid wash it, and check the cylinders and all associated for $125. If the sylinder is scored thaey said a sleeve could be put in place. I may not go the route of replcement just yet.

stay tuned...

B202NUT
04-08-11, 09:03 PM
After reading this (Abbott Racing (http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&drKey=1729&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.saabcentral.com%2Fforums%2Fsh owthread.php%3Ft%3D215778%26page%3D3&v=1&libid=1312505746969&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.abbottracing.net%2Fproduct.ph p%3Fid_product%3D388&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.saabcentral.com%2Fforums%2Ffo rumdisplay.php%3Ff%3D14%26order%3Ddesc%26page%3D2&title=Piston%20replacement%2Fupgrade%20-%20Page%203%20-%20SaabCentral%20Forums&txt=Abbott%20Racing&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_13125057561351)) and speaking with the guys here (Wossner (http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&drKey=1729&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.saabcentral.com%2Fforums%2Fne wreply.php%3Fdo%3Dnewreply%26p%3D2045905&v=1&libid=1312505765085&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwossneronline.com%2Fforged_piston s%2Findex.php%3Fmain_page%3Dproduct_info%26cPath%3 D28_22%26products_id%3D217&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.saabcentral.com%2Fforums%2Fsh owthread.php%3Ft%3D215778%26page%3D3&title=SaabCentral%20Forums%20-%20Reply%20to%20Topic&txt=Wossner&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_13125057977601)) I cannot pass up the opportunity to make this car a better performance vehicle and get all new pistons.

I am scrapping the salvage yard thought despite the instruction here and I am going to rebuild the short block in the car now. The machine shop that did the head on my NA told me he will do a superb long lasting job with the block and anticipates i will be as please as i was with the NA head job. He is a bit more expensive than the initial machione shop guy I spoke with but I trust his hands.

As i type the engine and tranny are 95% out of the car. Everything is stripped and I am buying a hoist this weekend.

I will get a computer cord tomorrow as well to upload pics of the process.

With the block out soooo many other aspects of the car will be sorted...

Galvanized nuts and bolts like Misu will be in order as well..

I will do the rebuild myself and since i never ventured this deep I am on pins and needles but hopefully as i follow the bentley manual and look at posts here I should be able to sort things out.

wish me luck and stay tuned.

from here will be less talk more piccys and questions if necessary.. My indy shop tech will help me along the way as well.

rawill
04-08-11, 09:32 PM
IMO, even if it costs more it is a good choice.

B202NUT
05-08-11, 02:25 PM
IMO, even if it costs more it is a good choice.

THANKS for the vote of confidence; many others in the workshop seemd to think I should get a used short block and keep those pistons. The machine guy suggested i work with what I have. His expereince far exceeds mines so i leaned towards his advise.

My wife is a fan of the car, she said to fix it once and do it right. So I imagine this route is best...

Cheers,

B202NUT
19-08-11, 08:41 PM
Here we go:

A quick shot of the bad piston. as you can see the cylinder has pitting and a complete overhaul is needed:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/cylinder2-1-1.jpg

The Bentley only describes removing the engine with the cylinder head on the block;

I have everything stripped down to the block; Now that its off, where is the best location to bolt up the eye bolts for the hoist?

I know the water pump is a given but were else would I want to add eyebolts for good clearance upon removal?

B202NUT
19-08-11, 08:50 PM
All thats left to move are the axle's and motor mounts:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/engineturbo-1.jpg

I imagine the lift from here is pretty easy; I just need to be informed where to set the eye bolts to hoist

thanks....

Squaab99t
19-08-11, 10:37 PM
I've always had the head still attached when pulling the motor. Pretty easy to put it back and quick 20 ft-pound on the main head bolts. If you go for the way it is, pull the starter run it thru the hoop on the starter plate. Then a second loop around the water pump. I would rather take 20min to put the head back on than risk dorking something up.

B202NUT
20-08-11, 09:52 PM
I've always had the head still attached when pulling the motor. Pretty easy to put it back and quick 20 ft-pound on the main head bolts. If you go for the way it is, pull the starter run it thru the hoop on the starter plate. Then a second loop around the water pump. I would rather take 20min to put the head back on than risk dorking something up.

I was hoping not to have to do that as I imagine its just that much lighter without it on.

But if necessary I will rebolt it back...

thanks

Squaab99t
20-08-11, 10:32 PM
I was hoping not to have to do that as I imagine its just that much lighter without it on.

But if necessary I will rebolt it back...

thanks

It is lighter. Maybe 75 lbs with the intake and exhaust manifold still bolted to the head? The hoist and the engine stand will not know the difference.

nuclear944
21-08-11, 09:55 AM
This is a good time to consider a 5sp conversion.

Good luck though, making great progress!!!

B202NUT
21-08-11, 07:09 PM
This is a good time to consider a 5sp conversion.

Good luck though, making great progress!!!

thanks; I probably wont be able to fit the 5 speed since the wife drives it as well.

B202NUT
21-08-11, 07:15 PM
I been doing my homework on 2.3 head swaps and the local yard has a 1990 9000 Turbo. if the head is still on the car I am considering to grab it but I have a couple questions.

Does the 2.0 exhaust manifold bolt directly to the 2.3 head?

Once I get the 2.3 head do I leave the valves and cams insitu or do I swap the valves and cams from the 2.0 into the 2.3 head?

Once I decide to go this route am I committed to fitting a 2.1 intake manifold, or just port the 2.0 intake?

thanks...

Squaab99t
21-08-11, 07:45 PM
I been doing my homework on 2.3 head swaps and the local yard has a 1990 9000 Turbo. if the head is still on the car I am considering to grab it but I have a couple questions.

Does the 2.0 exhaust manifold bolt directly to the 2.3 head?

Once I get the 2.3 head do I leave the valves and cams insitu or do I swap the valves and cams from the 2.0 into the 2.3 head?

Once I decide to go this route am I committed to fitting a 2.1 intake manifold, or just port the 2.0 intake?

thanks...

Bolting it on is the easy part as it will fit the block. The issue is that the timing cover or the head must be filled in or you will have a major oil leak... This is also know as the long head vs the short head.
http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/albums/album1318/IMG_1677_Large.sized.jpg

http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/albums/album1318/IMG_2138_Large.sized.jpg
http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/albums/album1318/P1030209_Large.sized.jpg

http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/albums/album1318/P1030203_Large.sized.jpg

B202NUT
22-08-11, 12:04 AM
thanks for clarifing; thats more work than I want to entertain.

I must have been mixing my research. I thought I read the 93 and earlier 9000 with b234 engine was direct fit, and the 94 and later models required the fabrication you pictured.

I need to re read the posts. I imagine of I can find a 2.1 head I wouldn't have that problem, right?

thanks again.

jdwertz
22-08-11, 12:51 AM
thanks for clarifing; thats more work than I want to entertain.

I must have been mixing my research. I thought I read the 93 and earlier 9000 with b234 engine was direct fit, and the 94 and later models required the fabrication you pictured.

I need to re read the posts. I imagine of I can find a 2.1 head I wouldn't have that problem, right?

thanks again.

I know a guy that did this, direct swap bolt on, no welding necessary for the timing cover. Forget what year 9k....

AUSSIE900
22-08-11, 01:11 AM
i imagine of i can find a 2.1 head i wouldn't have that problem, right?



right..

rawill
22-08-11, 02:23 AM
I know a guy that did this, direct swap bolt on, no welding necessary for the timing cover. Forget what year 9k....

I have been told this too, by a guy I know who I am sure has put a 2.3 head on a C900 engine.

/R

Squaab99t
22-08-11, 03:10 AM
I have been told this too, by a guy I know who I am sure has put a 2.3 head on a C900 engine.

/R


You guys might be right. The head I depicted is what is know as a T5 head. Maybe the later version of the 9000? It has the same pattern as the T7 heads.
You could easily measure the length and compare to what you have now to what is in the yard. I have heard of swapping to the 2.1l head on the 900c. I wonder if it is the same head for the early 9000 2.3l?
What are the flow bench numbers compared to the stock 900 head?

I thought I had the various heads and their flow numbers documented somewhere...

B202NUT
22-08-11, 02:29 PM
I have been told this too, by a guy I know who I am sure has put a 2.3 head on a C900 engine.

/R


thats what I thought and all my research indicates the 2.1 and the 2.3 prior to 94 are the same, which means dirct bolt on and no mods.

I will have a go for the 2.3 head at the salvage yard.

My research further indicates the lower compression gives better off boost power which is what I am looking for; is this also correct???

B202NUT
22-08-11, 02:31 PM
right..


great then this confirms my research was correct and the 2.1 and the 2.3 heads prior to 94 are identical, and should bolt right on no mods;ol;...

rawill
22-08-11, 03:46 PM
My research further indicates the lower compression gives better off boost power which is what I am looking for; is this also correct???

That could be right, but I can't confirm that.

However, Jeff Cullen on this sie certainly said the 2.3 had better torque than even the later 2.0 engines. You will find his comment on this in a discussion on the 9000 forum.

The heading was "fuel economy after an ecu tune" We and others had a discussion on this.

I also have been told the valves are larger, hence some better flow.
In fact the guy who was talking to me recommended I do this mod to my C900.

dmgb5
23-08-11, 12:30 PM
my research further indicates the lower compression gives better off boost power which is what i am looking for; is this also correct???


Wrong!:nono; I don't know how many times I have told you this now...lowering compression will hurt off boost power! When fitting a 2.1 or 2.3 head you are sacrificing off boost driving for the ability to run higher boost levels without knock. Please do more research. FYI '90 9000T (US) is still a 2.0L motor...'91 is when the 9000T received the 2.3L motor.

B202NUT
23-08-11, 01:56 PM
Wrong!:nono; I don't know how many times I have told you this now...lowering compression will hurt off boost power! When fitting a 2.1 or 2.3 head you are sacrificing off boost driving for the ability to run higher boost levels without knock. Please do more research. FYI '90 9000T (US) is still a 2.0L motor...'91 is when the 9000T received the 2.3L motor.


that would be correct as i just looked at a couple old threads; in order for the head to be 2.3 it needs to come from a 91 -93 9000.

Lowering compression allows for more boost but hurts off boost acceleration? looks like I had it backwards; thanks for clarifying;ol;.

well now I know not to bother with the head on the 90 9000T.


i'll keep waiting for a 91-93 itt'll show up in matter of weeks I am sure...

900t
25-08-11, 07:59 PM
Here we go:

A quick shot of the bad piston. as you can see the cylinder has pitting and a complete overhaul is needed:

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa332/B202NUT/cylinder2-1-1.jpg

The Bentley only describes removing the engine with the cylinder head on the block;

I have everything stripped down to the block; Now that its off, where is the best location to bolt up the eye bolts for the hoist?

I know the water pump is a given but were else would I want to add eyebolts for good clearance upon removal?


yikes!!

B202NUT
26-08-11, 02:29 PM
yikes!!


I was waiting for someone to chime in on the damage; seems pretty bad to me as well; my wife was driving it so who know why or how long she drove to get it to that point. She only called me when it comletely stopped.

I hope the rebuild will make things look anew.

li Arc
26-08-11, 03:06 PM
Are you sticking with the Wossner pistons? I think just that and rebuilding the rest of the engine will be sufficient...if you really want a bit more from your head you can ask the machine shop to port it out a bit, though I did it myself with a rasp and a drill (you can see it in my thread). However, it does take time and you need to find a way to re-roughen up the surface of the ports so that it flows better and air doesn't stick to the sidewalls.

If the shop has had a look at the block, they should also be able to tell you what type of parts you'll need to rebuild the block, whether you need standard, under or oversized items. The Wossner pistons may come with rings already, but if you're lucky, you may be able to specify whether you need oversized rings or not. Have you considered a full rebuild? If you're in this deep anyhow, I would replace the bearings as well, but at 180k some people here may not agree with me. If you're on a budget and they look good and you don't need undersized bearings, you may be able to get away with reusing them. However, these are all parts that affect "mileage on the engine"; if you replace them all (main/connecting rod/thrust bearings; your new pistons will have everything else), you'll have a virtually 0 mileage engine (with the exception of the bores, but if the heat didn't damage them then they'll most likely look like new anyhow).

Keep us posted! Just read up on your interior work, fantastic job! Cosmetics are not my strong suit; it takes more patience and fidelity than I have, but hopefully I can help answer questions with the mechanical stuff! Maybe I can use your thread to convince my gf that she's missing out!

li Arc

B202NUT
26-08-11, 03:25 PM
Are you sticking with the Wossner pistons? I think just that and rebuilding the rest of the engine will be sufficient...if you really want a bit more from your head you can ask the machine shop to port it out a bit, though I did it myself with a rasp and a drill (you can see it in my thread). However, it does take time and you need to find a way to re-roughen up the surface of the ports so that it flows better and air doesn't stick to the sidewalls.

If the shop has had a look at the block, they should also be able to tell you what type of parts you'll need to rebuild the block, whether you need standard, under or oversized items. The Wossner pistons may come with rings already, but if you're lucky, you may be able to specify whether you need oversized rings or not. Have you considered a full rebuild? If you're in this deep anyhow, I would replace the bearings as well, but at 180k some people here may not agree with me. If you're on a budget and they look good and you don't need undersized bearings, you may be able to get away with reusing them. However, these are all parts that affect "mileage on the engine"; if you replace them all (main/connecting rod/thrust bearings; your new pistons will have everything else), you'll have a virtually 0 mileage engine (with the exception of the bores, but if the heat didn't damage them then they'll most likely look like new anyhow).

Keep us posted! Just read up on your interior work, fantastic job! Cosmetics are not my strong suit; it takes more patience and fidelity than I have, but hopefully I can help answer questions with the mechanical stuff! Maybe I can use your thread to convince my gf that she's missing out!

li Arc

yes to all the above; complete rebuild is the intent (on budget but will buy gradually) and I have been STUDYING YOUR THREAD religously;ol;.

Will definately need help and I am also debating on whether to port what I have or get 2.3 head. My brother suggest I port what I have...

thanks for commenting and extending support; I will definately need it. Currently getting all my tools together (hoist, engine stand, ect) and trying to get ready to buy the most expensive part of the rebiuld at this poitnare the pistons. Once i get those I figure the rings and bearings will be a bit easier to afford.

thanks again...

If I buy all new parts then I dont need to worry about putting things back where they came form right? I would just have to keep rpm's low for the 1st 1000 miles after the rebuild to break things in right?

li Arc
26-08-11, 04:34 PM
I almost wish I bought new pistons, but I wasn't in the best financial position last year when I did the rebuild neither, and while I made many modifications to the rest of the car, I always made sure they were (easily) reversible in the event I decided to either sell (not likely) or restore instead (say, for maximum reliability); replacing the pistons would have gone against that mindset, so I decided to keep stock. In fact, the only thing irreversible on the car right now is the exhaust (since I didn't keep the old one), but that's easy enough to replace should I ever need to, and it's not a really major reliability consideration. But I agree, it's a considerable investment, but given the performance gains, probably preferrable to other similarly priced goodies like equal length headers or adjustable cams or such. I am very curious to see what the effect of forged pistons are in a c900 though; I have read threads about people considering or have done the swap, but nothing about the results. I assume the pistons will be stronger and, since they're lighter, the engine will rev quicker and feel lighter.

Be sure to go easy on the engine for the first while (up to a threshold, something like what you say), after which you will want to do a full oil and filter change after that to get all new particulates out, before going back to your usual oil change regimen. I've heard many OEMs use conventional oil for the break-in period; I can't remember the reason for it, but it's not just cost, something about synthetics not right for the job for some reason (someone correct me if I'm wrong). Nonetheless, I've always used Mobil 1 in this car and I'll continue to use it for the break-in period.

As far as new parts, well, since they didn't originate from any spot in your car, you can't very well place them back there can you? :p New parts can go anywhere, it's old parts that have been mated on both sides by their wear patterns that need to go back exactly as they came out. This includes things like main/connecting rod/thrust bearings, pistons and their rings, valve followers, etc.

Oh, and don't forget, the OE pistons have a notch in them that dictate which direction they go. Make sure to check for this on the new pistons, or find out from the retailer which way the go first!

li Arc

li Arc
26-08-11, 04:56 PM
Sorry for the flood of replies, but I just remembered your questions about lifting the engine.

1) Lifting engine

For lifting the engine, I decided to invest in a leveling crane, which goes between the engine and the hoist. It's basically a bar that separates the single lift point from the crane to two lift points through the leveller. What it does is it has an adjustment bolt that allows you to shift the weight fore/aft between the two lift points so that you can more evenly distribute the engine weight to allow a smooth, level lift/drop, instead of having it tilt all over the place. It was about $35, but very well worth it. This leveller, instead of having a hook, has 4 L-brackets with mounting holes in them, allowing you to use a bolt as a lift point instead of having to find something to hook onto; there are 2 of these L-brackets on chains at each end. Although I tried to make use of all 4 brackets, this last time I could only find enough bolt locations that I'm comfortable with for 3 brackets. Normally, a single M12 bolt from one of the top two on the front flywheel plate is a good contender, and two in the back, preferrably spread out left/right. I recommend bolting directly to the block, instead of bolting to accessories like the alternator or water pump. When you're lifting the engine out, make sure weight is even fore/aft, if not, adjust the leveller. Be aware of the angle of the horizontal angle of the leveller with respect to the block and hoist, when you're pulling it out, or the engine will twist in your engine bay when it gets free.

2) Mounting the Block

Keep in mind, when you mount the block, you want to mount the block! Don't attach it to any transmission or head mount points, because they're aluminum. Try to keep the block on the hoist while you're attempting to locate the adjustable arms on the mount to accommodate the block; it really, really helps if the block is very level to the ground so your bolts don't skew in relation to the mount. What I did is to remove the left side engine mount, and use it to mount the rear arms, and there's a couple more holes near the flywheel plate on the front to mount the arms to the front. The arms on my mount *just* cleared each other to make the mount, you may wish to find a mount with slightly more 'svelte' arms; 4 really long M8 bolts did the trick (they need to clear the depth of the arms on the mount). When remanning the engine, I had it mounted at the flywheel plate end (long end suspended out), because I needed access to the pulley end to do stuff there; though it seems iffy, it holds well, as long as you've got good bolts (make sure they're grade 8.8's, at least!).

It took a while to figure all this stuff out, as no one ever mentioned it, so hopefully this helps some!

li Arc

AUSSIE900
26-08-11, 05:35 PM
What I have used when lifting with no head attached .
..Rope .... 3 legs done in a tripod style cradle .
Use decent 10mm rope doubled up .

One leg over each Inner driver , last leg around front engine mount . Works for me , used that method a few times off a chain block . Rig it up , operate the chain block with one hand .. roll the car away with the other .

B202NUT
26-08-11, 06:22 PM
What I have used when lifting with no head attached .
..Rope .... 3 legs done in a tripod style cradle .
Use decent 10mm rope doubled up .

One leg over each Inner driver , last leg around front engine mount . Works for me , used that method a few times off a chain block . Rig it up , operate the chain block with one hand .. roll the car away with the other .


thanks Aussie!!!!! I have been waiting to see about this as i did not want to refit the head;ol;. So you say use rope oppose to hoist chain?

li Arc
26-08-11, 10:45 PM
Sorry, I failed to state the ultimate point I was trying to make on my last post, which is that if you have points you can bolt into, you can lift the engine with our without any other accessories attached, including the head. Just make sure you choose strong bolt points (ie. M12) or multiple weaker points (ie. M8)

li Arc

B202NUT
27-08-11, 11:16 PM
Wrong!:nono; I don't know how many times I have told you this now...lowering compression will hurt off boost power! When fitting a 2.1 or 2.3 head you are sacrificing off boost driving for the ability to run higher boost levels without knock. Please do more research. FYI '90 9000T (US) is still a 2.0L motor...'91 is when the 9000T received the 2.3L motor.


the yard just took in a 93 CSE; I am off work Friday and if the head is still on I will grab it;ol;.. Along with the front brake calipers and fuel pump.

rawill
28-08-11, 12:50 AM
If it is a T5.2, those ECU are not easy to find, nor are the CPS, or the CC module inside the car.

I'd love to have one of those here at a reasonable price.

Extra spares for my nice 93 griffin.

/R