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9-5 Rear Brake Caliper upgrade question

12K views 23 replies 8 participants last post by  LEGage 
#1 · (Edited)
I have an 06 9-5 aero and I am looking to upgrade my rear brake calipers when it is time to do my breaks. I am thinking of going with the GS rear break upgrade kit, but would like to see if it could be done in a more inexpensive way.

Are there any year 9-5's with rear calipers that had a 300mm ventilated rear disk? If so what years?

Will those calipers fit an 06 9-5 rear brake caliper mounting bracket?

I am looking to see if a seemless replacement with used calipers could be done. thanks
 
#3 · (Edited)
My 06 Sportcombi has 286mm solid disk breaks in the rears. GM cutting down on cost, my bet. I am looking to upgrade them so the rears are not a solid disk but ventilated, and I know there is a 300mm rear ventilated disks that can be used. I am trying to see if there are previous year 9-5s that use the same mounting bracket I have on my car, but are calipers that fit a 300mm ventilated rear disk.

This link will give you an idea, but I am just looking for the calipers at the moment:
http://www.genuinesaab.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=47_50_85&products_id=70
 
#6 ·
I doubt anyone is checking this thread. But if anyone still is and they know the answer to this question:

My current rear calipers are for a solid rear rotor and cannot be used with a ventilated rotor correct?

I was informed this by someone else on this site, but I just want to double check. I will find out if they are different once I get the two off and can compare(next spring/summer). I wonder if it is just a piston depth issue, or if the two calipers are really different?
 
#8 · (Edited)
LEGage, you are absolutely correct. In 2006 SAAB changed back the caliper and rotor to the 38/10 version. If you look at your caliper, it clearly says 38/10 on it. 38 refers to the caliper bore size in mm and the 10 refers to the disc thickness of 10 mm. That disc is 286mm x 10mm

The version you want is the 40/20 caliper. 40 refers to the 40mm bore and 20 to the 20mm thick vented rotor.

I will be changing my 2007 9-5 Aero Wagon rear calipers and rotors sometime in the near future to the larger style. Take a look at this link.

http://catalog.brakewarehouse.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=2007-SAAB-9--5-L4--90cc--.3l--F/i--Turbo--Vin--B--35r-Brake/wheel--Bearing&yearid=2007%40%402007&makeid=73%40%40SAAB%40%40&modelid=14769%40%409+%2D+5&engineid=34880@@L4%2D2290cc+2%2E3L+F%2FI+Turbo+Vin+B235R@@34880&subcatid=64@@Rear+Caliper%2C+Wheel+Cyl%2C+Hoses&mode=PA

Steve
 
#9 ·
Why do the rears need upgrading? :confused:
 
#10 · (Edited)
My mechanic schooled me. So the short answer as you already know there is really no need.

Mind you I am obviously not as learned in the ways of autos as yourself. Which is why I come to this site. Trying to learn and find out what is the best way to go sometimes. That being said my mechanic set me straight this time (Charles Ellis of Ellis Imports) he said the pedal went away on hills. I cooked the brake fluid most likely. I thought incorrectly (are you happy) that the solid rear disks over heated. If they had then as I was informed no amount of cooling off could correct that. The only way, I was told, the rears could over heat is if the caliper sticks on, usually due to a hand brake.

I was also informed the front brakes handle 80% of the breaking load and if going down hill the load transfer is even greater. So this answers your question the rears do not need upgrading. Mind you still feels like GM went a cheaper route to save money.

All that being said. I already have the calipers on the way (already paid for). So when I do my brakes next summer or spring. (I am sure you would like to watch and laugh). I will use vented rotors in the back. My mechanic has been so kind to even send me links to help me with DIY steps. It is a righteous shop at least IMHO.

Now to start up another dust up, seeing how Mr Ellis is in the know, he recommends Dot 4 Castrol GTLMA break fluid. Not only recommends, I think his words was it is the best. What say you Chris(I thought you recommeded Brembo before)? I was going to go with Ate Super Blue Racing DOT4. But then again I use zMax in my oil, and not ashamed to admit it. (Castrol Syntec 0-W30 full synthetic European formula)
 
#11 · (Edited)
5.1 fluid & upgrade to braided lines
 
#12 · (Edited)
Thank-you. I was planning on doing the lines.

Another stupid question. The Brembo 5.1 does not hurt any of the break parts? I think I read somewhere that 5.1 is not to be used with magnesium parts. I have no clue what type of parts are in my break system. I take you used 5.1 and had no problems. Just going off the manual and it said Dot4.

5.1 says you, with no issues? Just double checking
 
#14 ·
5.1 is fine!
 
#16 ·
But don´t forget, once you got Dot 5 in it, you can never change back to Dot 4.


Another question: Would the front Calipers fit in the Back?:cheesy:
Why would you want to? :confused:

(Unless you mean make sure no mechanic tops up with the wrong stuff??)
 
#21 ·
I am sticking with the solid rear disks. As it turns out I did warp the rear rotors. I only feel it when I need to use the rear disks. I am finding out that is very rarely.

My solution to avoid warping the rears in the future is to go with slotted rear rotors with ceramic pads. I have one more big trip too milk my breaks a little bit more. After that I will finally get around to doing my breaks myself.

If I warp this second set of rotors before 50,000 miles on the new disks and pads I will then do the rear break upgrade.
 
#22 ·
BrAkes not brEAks, OK;)

Fresh brake fluid is wonderful stuff. I would stick with DOT 4 and change it more often. Like before a track day and at least once per season. The amount of moisture is the biggest factor in boiling point, so change often.

Quality rotors make a small difference so go with them. Slotted rotors do not increase performance other than in wet conditions because any decent modern pad with not be off-gassing. Blanks are just fine. Cryo-treating can yield some longevity if you want something special. SS brake lines will improve feel.
The biggest improvement you can make would be getting good pads. Something streetable like Hawk HPS. There are many good brands, expect to pay about $100/axle to get something good. Also expect more dust and squeal, there are some trade-offs to be made.

The simple steps of making sure the stock system works its best can yield good results with no need to go a big brake system. If you plan to do lots of open track work, then go with something larger with better cooling capacity.
 
#23 ·
Rear vented rotors are an improvement over any solid disc rotor especially for heat dissipation. Thus less likely to warp. Familiar with Dot 5 brake fluid (silicone based) & one of the concerns when if came out eons ago was that moisture would not mix with it & the moisture would lay in the brake lines at their lowest point & eventually cause the line to rust out. I am running the ATE SL6 DOT4 a light viscosity brake fluid for the newer vehicles with ABS etc.
 
#24 ·
I hear you about the vented rotors, and I will update this post way down the line if in fact my new rotors warp also(Still have one more long trip to get out of these brakes). The stock rear pads that are on my car still are not the ceramic, they are Ate oem (probably semi-metalic) like the ones on my wife's 9-3. I am curious to see if the ceramic pads combined with the slotted rotors help decipate the heat enough to prevent the warping of the rear solid rotors. The rear rotors are not warped that bad and I only feel it when I brake at speeds over 90, or steep long hills. Which shows me that the rears really do not get used all that often. Time will tell.
 
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