Well first of this is my first post so i wanted to say hello to everyone. Me and a friend got this car for fun and dirt cheap. Its a 1999 9-5SE 2.0t 150hp. I have a turbo car so does my friend BUT this Saab seems a little more delicate. The car is currently not working because we changed the turbo since the old one was blown. The turbo fitted perfectly. We also put on big K&N on a custom intake which looks awesome and is way better then the old restrictive plastic box. The spark plugs and wires, and now we are getting to the more hard stuff. The fuel pump must be replaced as this one is old and I am sure it will not supply enought fuel. The horsepower goal is 250hp-300hp max as we are not looking for a dragster. I was woundering if a Walbro 255L/H will fit. The injectors also look small I am guessing somehwre in the 300range. What injectors would fit RC, DSM 450cc or only bosch ? I wanted to put an Oil catch can where the original metal hose was connected to the original intake. The Blow off valve is also crap, its stuck and seems to be malfuntioning, NOW my interesting question. My car is venting so is my friends, yet we have no problems, mine is suppost to recurcilate and his also but we are venting with no problems, no low rpms or smog. I wanted to vent the Saab too. my friend had Blitz on, when the car vented it would almost die, we changed it with HKS and the car runs like champ with also no problems with the MAF and fuel. Can this be done to the Saab, because recurcilation would a be a little hard to do into our new intake. Also, since we are located in a third world country, tuning and parts is scare. We have a manual boost controller, I was woundering how much boost can the ECU cope with OK and control the fuel by itself. Also can we hook up a SAFC2 to this Saab as it is a Gm vehicle and thats why i am sceptical about. What boost/horsepower can be achieved with the stock fuel pump and injectors. And how much horsepower can the ECu cope with without running very rich or lean and throwing codes. Can a manual boost cotroller be installed or do we need to Remap the ECU ( this is alsmost impossible where we are located ) Thank you , and I hope to bea regular member
IMO, and I'm no expert, when you change how a car breathes and runs, the computer needs to be tuned in order to deal with it. You can probably "get away" with a K&N (but it doesn't really do much anyway, so why bother), but I wouldn't touch the turbo or injectors unless the car can be tuned. Otherwise you could run into some serious issues. when you start doing things like that, your computer is going to think you've got issues, and then it will try to correct them, which i'll bet leads to worse performance, etc. So unless you can tune, imho, leave it be.
I don't drive, and have never owned a 9-5, but am just using what I would consider common sense, so I'll let an expert concur or shoot down what I've got.
You have a ton of questions in there and unfortunately I don't have all the answers for you but hopefully I can provide some insight. I personally don't know much about the 2.0t, but I don't think much is different between it and the 2.3t. First off, a manual boost controller, from everything I have ever read, will do nothing for your car. You can try it, but the adaptive properties of the Tronic software make it not very useful. You would need an ECU tune to really take advantage of upgrades or to increase stock power. You may want to check out ecuproject.org and try and learn how to do it yourself, because if you buy a tuned ECU it will probably cost more than you're hoping to spend. Next, just a word about the stock air intake.... it's really well made and can easily handle air requirements of up to and a bit over 300HP. The intake you have will just allow you to hear the turbo spool up more. Next, the blow off valve. I believe you won't get by with a dump valve unless you have a custom tune, so you should plan on a recirculating type. Next, you definitely want to stick with stock spark plugs (NGK) because the tronic system uses them for knock detection and most other brands and non-resistive types won't work. Finally, the turbo on the car now can handle up to about 15psi. Not sure how you would ever achieve that without a tune, but that's what you can get it up to. Good luck on your project!
manual boost controller...nonononono
the injectors on that car are the green ones? They only manage 210Hp. If u get the brown ones from a nother 9-5 (2001->), they are the same as the aero ones an can upto around 300Hp, but cant remember if u have to get a fuel preassure regulator with higher preassure mabye 3,5Bar.
to get 300Hp from that car u need:
new injectors
New turbo(mitsu td04-15t or bigger)
3" downpipe
2,5" cat back or bigger exhaust
new optimized software.
and for more than 300Hp....forged pistons
The exhaust is being made as I type, and it s a straight through 3". No cat , just resonator to kill some of the noise and a muffler. The turbo came of a friends car, he made around 245whp with pump gas not sure but he wasnt pushing it, so this turbo will make my desirable horsepower. So i can do all the mechanical stuff but electrical and tuning I am not familiar with. There is a guy here who tuned a saab but the price he wasnt is $2200 for tuning the ecu. Also the engine is 2.0t Ecopower. This Ecopower is the GM version of more friendly to the environment. What exactly is Ecopower compared to the 210hp engine. Is it just low boost and ecu tuned, or does it have some kind of restrictive system. We removed Ecotek from a Gm opel 2.0l 16v. But for this Saab I have no idea what Ecopower would be. The pistons and rods with good tune will handle 300hp ? Also any one know how much the fuel pump can take. We drove the car yesterday, it would fuel cut in about 14psi of boost. It wheel spins all the way of first second is ok and third fuel cuts so I am thinking either injectors or fuel pump is giving out or maybe ECU going in limp mode and stpoing fuel. I will try to search the net if there are companies that would chip the ECu if I sent it to them. Worst case senario I will engotiate with the 2200 guy for a lower price to tune it. So far I am impressed with the saab and I wthink it will make an okay car for the girfriend
U dont need to disable anything when going without cat I think. I think the 98-00 only have one oxygen/lamda sensor. 01-> have two. on the pre 01 I think the sensor is before the cat.
The ecotec engine (like in my 01) have low friction piston rings...should use less fuel....god for the envirement. The scond type of engie , the biopower can use both e85 and regular pump fuel 95 or 98 octan.
And it is not an GM engine block I think...I belive it is based on the 9000 engine block design.
Learn how to use t7suite from the ecuproject site. U can adjust anything in this software, timing, boost, fuelmaps, and a lot of other things ( like disable the second lamda on a decat car ( on a two lamda seonsor car).
A tuned car should use 98 octan fuel.
A head from an aero engine should handle a little bit more heat. Aero heads have a diffrent type of valve material that can handle more heat.
and remember : NO MANUAL BOOSTCONTROL, the t7 engine managment software/hardware does not like that, fix the boost through software upgrade (or adjust it with t7suite and program the new software to the ecu)
NO OPEN DUMPVALVE. IF it does the ecu will not know that there is less air in the system then what it meassured with the airmass sensor at the air intake..will probably give u a to much fuel, and the car will no perform as it should....or mabye it will get a lean a/f ratio and damage the pistons.
To get more PHSS sound get a openair filter, and still use a dumpvalve that is oem type
Well I made some progress today. I found some red top injectors as mine are green ones. And wanted to ask the car is 2.0t 150hp LPT so the engine code would be B204E. Does this model have the sludge problem. If so how would an oil catch can perform.
Today, we had a compression test done on the car and all four cylinders held pressure perfectly. I dropped the oil pan and they was sludge. I am thinking this car never saw fully synthetic oil. Aside from oil sludge what other concerned should I have about this engine. I will be runing synthetic oil and the oil pan has been cleaned, also an oil catch can was installed in case of blowby gasses. Also i like NGK spark plugs, are they best for this Saab ot are there other ones you guys prefer using. The car will be ready next week, and then its off to the dyno to see how she performs.
don't use 6's on a tuned car, yuk. put 6's in mine as they were all halfords had, and recommended for a standard 2.3 non aero. and yuk, knock, knock, knock. changed them after under a day/ten miles of use. get 7's or 8's even. look on a website called parts for saabs, you'll see 8's listed on there too. are you changing the clutch? did you hit 14psi using the MBC??
Because of the Saab engine management system you can't do a lot of the tweaks that people typically do to turbo cars.
My advice for you would be to first off, get the car running properly. You said the car isn't working currently. That should be priority number 1 before any modifications are made. Do the sump, plugs, etc. get it running in good shape, then start the modifications.
When you do start the mods, do one at a time, not all at once. It will make troubleshooting way easier to do one thing at a time. If you throw a bunch of stuff on there and it doesn't run well, it will be hard to tell exactly which part is causing the problems.
Good luck.
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