Anaerobic sealant Help!!! Sump pan install [Archive] - SaabCentral Forums

: Anaerobic sealant Help!!! Sump pan install


zeethree
15th June 2010, 08:27 PM
Hi all- After driving all over the world all I can find is permatex anearobic flange sealant #51531. Can I use this on the sump pan??? Of course it was 23 dollars so it should be good for something... And it says to use a special
permatex surface prep activator which of course I don't have... I need the car back on the road ASAP as the family is waiting on it...:o

Any one know about this stuff??? I looked at Permatex website and it sounds like it should work although it doesn't list sump pan as an application...

Thanks for all advise....

ivanwakeup
15th June 2010, 09:10 PM
23 bucks? sounds a bit steep. BTW ANY anareobic gasket maker will work, i've never heard it called "flange sealant" though. Just head down to your local auto store, its really common stuff- ask an assistant to point you to anaerobic gasket maker.

I believe the stuff i used was simply called Permatex anaerobic sealant/gasket maker. It was a red gooey solution.

planosaab
15th June 2010, 10:04 PM
napa usually keeps it on the shelf....its in a blue tube. I'll mail you some for 20.99 hehe na kidding sorry.

The black gasket maker, "right stuff" works very well but it is a pain to break it free later...but it will not leak.

zeethree
15th June 2010, 10:24 PM
I'm in Kentucky and I suppose most people around here don't take a "hankering" to stuff that sounds like it might involve exercise so they just like that RTV stuff since it sounds like going on vacation in a bus or sump'n. Anyway I guess I'll use this overpriced purple goop and hope I don't have to re-do it because I need to get this back on the road...

Wulf
15th June 2010, 10:24 PM
I believe the stuff i used was simply called Permatex anaerobic sealant/gasket maker. It was a red gooey solution.That's Permatex 51817 or Loctite 518 which is the recommended choice for the sump. One small tube is enough for one sump application.

http://wulfers.net/auto/repairs/9-5sump/files/page66_18.jpghttp://wulfers.net/auto/repairs/9-5sump/files/page66_17.jpg

http://wulfers.net/auto/repairs/9-5sump/files/page66_19.jpg

The Permatex website lists 51531 as a flange sealant and 51817 as a gasket maker. I don't know what the exact difference is and 51531 may or may not work for the sump.

Maine
15th June 2010, 10:38 PM
The sealant I used required the use of an activator to ensure drying, this was the Napa Permatex stuff, and it was $30 for the activator.

ivanwakeup
15th June 2010, 11:21 PM
That's Permatex 51817 or Loctite 518 which is the recommended choice for the sump. One small tube is enough for one sump application.

http://wulfers.net/auto/repairs/9-5sump/files/page66_18.jpghttp://wulfers.net/auto/repairs/9-5sump/files/page66_17.jpg

http://wulfers.net/auto/repairs/9-5sump/files/page66_19.jpg

The Permatex website lists 51531 as a flange sealant and 51817 as a gasket maker. I don't know what the exact difference is and 51531 may or may not work for the sump.

just went and checked mine, actually its different than both of those.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51NBbwCsPgL._SL500_AA300_.jpg


this is the stuff i used- permatex 81160. High temperature silicone gasket maker. I don't know how it differs from the other gasket makers, but it seems to be holding up well. I have not experienced any oil leaking from the pan just yet.

spg1
16th June 2010, 12:21 AM
I used the Loctite 518 flange sealant on the oil pump on my 900 and it has been fine ever since. I still have some and it's good to know that it will work on the oil pan of the 95.
One thing though, are you supposed to change out the pickup tube "O" ring gasket when pulling the pan or can I just put some of the Loctite 518 on it as well?

tirado_881
16th June 2010, 12:47 AM
What we always use is the permatex 51817 that is the best thing if u r not going to use the saab sealant. i think permatex makes it for them any way. the stuff u used may or maynot hold up. the stuff u used is normally for things like exhaust flanges some people put some of that to keep the valve cover gasket in place. although it does say high temp sealant the permatex is what should be used.

zeethree
16th June 2010, 10:13 AM
Yep, thats the stuff I got... But I didn't use the activator and I put way too much on... I already have it back together. I guess I should just go ahead and redo it. That was an expensive lesson.


The sealant I used required the use of an activator to ensure drying, this was the Napa Permatex stuff, and it was $30 for the activator.

photousa
16th June 2010, 10:57 AM
It was impossible to find Loctite 518 in Chicago, and I looked all over town. I ended up ordering mine from Amazon.com here: http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Gasket-Maker-518-37394/dp/B0002JMLMY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=industrial&qid=1276696517&sr=8-3
You need to be very careful about what you use with this job, you don't want the wrong sealant clogging up your lifters or causing other problems...
"Anaerobic" sealant is formulated to remain in a liquid state, (when not in contact between two metal surfaces), so when it ends up inside of your engine, it can be dispersed by your engine oil.... other types of sealants may solidify or gum up oil passages.

spg1
16th June 2010, 11:08 AM
It was impossible to find Loctite 518 in Chicago, and I looked all over town. I ended up ordering mine from Amazon.com here: http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Gasket-Maker-518-37394/dp/B0002JMLMY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=industrial&qid=1276696517&sr=8-3
You need to be very careful about what you use with this job, you don't want the wrong sealant clogging up your lifters or causing other problems...
"Anaerobic" sealant is formulated to remain in a liquid state, so when it ends up inside of your engine, it can be dispersed by your engine oil.... other types of sealants may solidify or gum up oil passages.
Ya, I found mine at a bearing shop, they were the only place that had it near me.
Were you happy with it on how it worked? I believe it's basically the same as the permatex 51817 talked about, isn't it?

photousa
16th June 2010, 11:15 AM
I believe that "Anaerobic" is the key word, you need to make sure that the sealant stays in liquid form if it gets inside of your engine. I have a friend who ruined a motorcycle engine when he put it together using the wrong sealant....

spg1
16th June 2010, 11:18 AM
I believe that "Anaerobic" is the key word, you need to make sure that the sealant stays in liquid form if it gets inside of your engine. I have a friend who ruined a motorcycle engine when he put it together using the wrong sealant....
I thought I would ask because the tube of Loctite 518 doesn't say Anaerobic on it that I can see. Is this what you used?

ivanwakeup
16th June 2010, 02:19 PM
well, i don't think ANY gasket maker is going to stay solid after attached to the sump/motor. From what i can tell, mine remains somewhat "rubbery" though, rather than rock hard.

Wulf
16th June 2010, 02:29 PM
well, i don't think ANY gasket maker is going to stay solid after attached to the sump/motor. From what i can tell, mine remains somewhat "rubbery" though, rather than rock hard.

"Anaerobic" sealant is formulated to remain in a liquid state, (when not in contact between two metal surfaces), so when it ends up inside of your engine, it can be dispersed by your engine oil.... other types of sealants may solidify or gum up oil passages.You left out an important detail.. Anaerobic sealant hardens when it's not exposed to air, for example in between the engine and oil sump surfaces. It remains liquid when it is exposed to air, for example when squeezed out to the sides inside/outside the sump.

zeethree
16th June 2010, 03:15 PM
After reading the peramtex technical data pdf (http://www.permatex.com/documents/tds/automotive/51580.pdf) regarding 51531 super expensive purple stuff it looks to be about the same as the other recommended gasket maker from permatex it just cures faster. I didn't use the primer which I assume will only lengthen the curing time from 2 to 12 hours. But I know I squeezed a ton of excess into the inside of the block :( I hope it remains liquid. I filled the sump with Rotella t6 too and an expensive filter which now I feel I should be replacing quickly. Anyway I'm learning...

Thanks for all the input! BTW I think a couple of the bolts around the oil pump end of the pan felt like they were stripped and I was afraid to reach the torque limit. How can you repair the threads in the block if that is the case?

zeethree
16th June 2010, 11:28 PM
and it's leaking... geez at least it's clean under there now. I think I will wait until I find some loctite 518 before dropping it again though.:x