After having the oil pan fixed and all, the engine is acting up still. She failed recently after driving a mile or so, the engine lost power in an instant and the CEL flashes, going into limp mode. There's no power when I try to accelerate and the engine keeps buckling. We had to literally limp home from a mile away on some backstreets to keep safe.
I've been reading up on the misfiring threads. So it seems as though it's due to a bad crank position sensor (CPS) or a failed direct ignition cassette (DIC)? Is this correct?
I am also wondering if disconnecting the battery to reset the ECM will at least allow me to drive to our dealer (10 miles away) or should I just flatbed it with AAA?
"It's not gone well." :(
06-07-09, 05:12 PM
If you are in limp home mode that is throttle body related rather than CPS or DI, clearing the code will not clear the fault as limp home has to be manually reset.
A failed throttle body? What causes this? And how do I reset the limp mode?
Just not your week!
Here's the instructions on resetting the throttle body.
I would get to an Autozone and have them read the codes and then clear them.
The internal wiring gets brittle, the insulation cracks and causes it to not work properly.
If the TB needs to be replaced, send it to BBA Reman in Taunton MA.
They can fix it right up (usually)
Well, i took a look at the car again after the rain had stopped. :roll:
It seems to drive fine now, the CEL is off, and i checked out the throttle body - the limp mode has been disengaged. I did some hard acceleration and some slow ones too and it responds normally now.
However, my wife told me the engine was diagnosed before and according to the paperwork, there was a "P1312 code - possible DI" failure. It did have rough starts at times.
I couldn't get at the throttle body inside - perhaps I should get it cleaned?
Also, when you change a DI, do you have ot change the spark plugs too?
P1312 points to a dying DIC, and yes the plugs should be changed.
Cleaning the TB is easy, spray a little TB cleaner in there, wipe the throat and flap (both sides) and your done.
Rough starts are normal for Saabs when the summer blend of gas is introduced and the air temp is below 60 degrees.(mine stumbled this morning 59 degrees)
Well, I had some drama yesterday and had to get the car towed when my wife was coming back from the beach. 1.5 hours later, the AAA flatbed came to pick us up.
This morning, they called just now and the car's all fixed. New DI, new spark plugs. The engine codes that were thrown:
P1171 - Fuel mixture code
P1300 - Misfiring code
When I saw the engine yesterday, there seemed to have been a hole starting to burn through the DI (or IDM). Some black paint was bubbling.
One other thing, the dealer mentioned the brake booster, and that it has a vacuum leak. And sometimes if the leak gets too big there will be an engine code thrown. Of course, the brake will still work regardless of the brake booster. This also whines and make weird noises in the summer.
All is good for now. :cool: