Speaker Replacement [Archive] - SaabCentral Forums

: Speaker Replacement


kaltorak
14th June 2009, 01:32 PM
A few of my speakers have been blown for a while and I am now going to replace them. If I go to Bestbuy and purchase the 3.5/6.5/6.9" for the Dash/Fr Door/Rear/Rear Parcel Shelf and put them in will that be sufficent or will I need to change the amp as well? Has anyone just done a straight swap?

9-3Pilot
14th June 2009, 04:05 PM
Yeah they can be used as a direct replacement. sizes: 3.5", 6.5", 6x9".
Don't get them at best buy though, they jack up the prices a lot.you can get them online a lot cheaper. crutchfield (http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/crutchfield.com), sonicelectronix (http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/sonicelectronix.com)
Don't go overboard on the price, running off the stock radio, it wouldn't be beneficial to get the best speakers. something around 40-60 watts rms is all you need for the larger speakers and about 20 for the 3.5".

edit: you have a convertable right? if so, the rear speakers are a different size than the sedan i think, I don't know what it is though.

saabchilten
14th June 2009, 06:29 PM
rear speakers in the convertible are 6.5" full range. you can fit 6"x9", but it's tricky.


i've seen the same thing about wattage. i looked at some really cheap speakers last month, but the lowest rms rating i ever saw was 90 watts. not low enough to work with the stock system, especially when i have to replace basically everything but the dash speakers.

dogie456
15th June 2009, 05:32 AM
i recently replaced the rear 6x9's with some jl audio tx and the difference is amazing. this could partly be to the fact that the jl's are 3 way with a woofer, midrange and tweeter built in. the old speakers are paper cone and the foam around them had actualy discintigrated and as soon as it was touched would turn 2 dust

saabchilten
15th June 2009, 06:33 AM
did the old speakers rattle terribly at the remotest sounding of bass? that's probably what all mine look like by now.

kaltorak
15th June 2009, 06:29 PM
rear speakers in the convertible are 6.5" full range. you can fit 6"x9", but it's tricky.


i've seen the same thing about wattage. i looked at some really cheap speakers last month, but the lowest rms rating i ever saw was 90 watts. not low enough to work with the stock system, especially when i have to replace basically everything but the dash speakers.

What is the max watts I can use in the system? Should I be purchasing speakers with the lowest rating I can find? What is the max sum we can use with the stock system?

jordan
15th June 2009, 07:46 PM
What is the max watts I can use in the system? Should I be purchasing speakers with the lowest rating I can find? What is the max sum we can use with the stock system?

You do not need to limit rms wattage of speakers for a stereo, the ability for a speaker handle more power is no detriment and will cause no problems. But too much amp wattage on the other hand will destroy speakers with too low an rms rating.

9-3Pilot
15th June 2009, 07:50 PM
There really is no maximum speaker RMS you can use, it is simply the highest wattage the speaker can handle. By getting a speaker with a higher rms you are simply wasting your money because the stock system doesn't put out that much power. save your money and go with something a bit cheaper. My suggestions: 3.5 (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7262_Rockford+Fosgate+Punch+P132C.html) 6.5rear (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7258_Rockford+Fosgate+Punch+P163C.html) (note that i have not used these speakers it's just to give you an idea of what to look for)

oh one thing I forgot to mention, use midbass speakers in the doors cause the amplifier only reproduces frequencies below 200Hz. Use something like this (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2543_Kicker+SSMB6.html).

Saabohème
15th June 2009, 09:06 PM
I have stock electronics with all three sets of speakers replaced. Here is the most important spec when staying with the relatively low power stock electronics: Sensitivity (or efficiency). You want the highest dB sensitivity rating you can get. The link you got was to 88dB, which is very good. It is possible to get 92 to 93 dB. The higher the sensitivity rating the more sound pressure you will produce per watt of input into the speaker. Try to stay with 4 ohm or even higher nominal impedance, although finding higher than 4 ohm nominal is not likely for car audio. Fitting aftermarket 6.5s in the doors and back seat panels will require slight and easy modifications to the brackets usually, due to the larger diameter magnet structures and/or speaker baskets. Watch the mounting depth on the door speakers - you don't want a magnet structure that extends so far back it will interfere with the window coming down. The stock mounting brackets for the doors add about 1.5 inches of additional clearance in the back by extending the front of the speaker out that far into the car.

dogie456
16th June 2009, 05:34 AM
did the old speakers rattle terribly at the remotest sounding of bass? that's probably what all mine look like by now.

they sounded like they were loaded with fireworks and not tryna play bass

saabchilten
16th June 2009, 06:47 AM
same here.


so saaboheme, are you saying that if i do choose the cheap speakers i was looking at with 90 watts rms and (i think it was) 92dB sensitivity, that i won't blow them up when i get on the highway with the top down and turn up the stereo? that really did concern me.

Immo
16th June 2009, 06:48 AM
I am looking at the Infinity Reference 6022si for the doors

'97 Saab SE Turbo
16th June 2009, 07:38 AM
Why not just recone the OEM speakers? You can get replacement cones on eBay for like $10-$15/pair. I did the door speakers and rear speakers a few months ago for $25... Ron

9-3Pilot
16th June 2009, 02:03 PM
same here.


so saaboheme, are you saying that if i do choose the cheap speakers i was looking at with 90 watts rms and (i think it was) 92dB sensitivity, that i won't blow them up when i get on the highway with the top down and turn up the stereo? that really did concern me.

the stock system puts out nowhere near 90 watts rms. any speaker with a rating of about 40 watts or more will be fine. The 92 dB sensitivity is definitely a plus.

9-3Pilot
16th June 2009, 02:11 PM
I am looking at the Infinity Reference 6022si for the doors
full ranges aren't going to do you any good in the doors. those speakers only play low frequencies, below 200Hz. my suggestion (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=299-042) (the speaker i'm planning on buying once i get some money), note that they are sold as individual speakers, so you need to buy two.

kaltorak
16th June 2009, 09:56 PM
I have stock electronics .....


If I approach a car audio supplier they should know all of [this] correct? My forte is health sciences, not car audio so part of me is saying to just replace the speakers with 'stock' equipment and not damage my car. Now you are throwing in the '...power windows may not go down...' variable!

Saabohème
16th June 2009, 11:08 PM
If I approach a car audio supplier they should know all of [this] correct? My forte is health sciences, not car audio so part of me is saying to just replace the speakers with 'stock' equipment and not damage my car. Now you are throwing in the '...power windows may not go down...' variable!
That's rare - it takes an exceptionally deep speaker structure to extend that far, although it can happen. Solution - what you said, or use a ruler.
I have one set of 6.5 stock rears for the vert and 1 set of dash 3.5s from the same 1999 vert. Alas, no door speakers. You have a PM.

haiden1991
28th June 2009, 08:19 PM
would this get rid of the terrible rattling everytime theres a pound of bass?

'97 Saab SE Turbo
28th June 2009, 09:32 PM
If you are talking about a recone eliminating the vibration of bass, the answer is yes. About $15/pair. I did my 1982 Pioneer 12" speakers at home and they sound great too... Ron

saabpat
1st July 2009, 10:36 PM
If the speakers are rattling with even the slightest bass then I would suspect bad voice coils, at this point they are not serviceable. With the stock Head unit and amp you need to focus on efficiency (dbl/spl), don't waste time with power handling capabilities as it is only an indication of how much heat the voice coil can tolerate. Nearly all automotive speakers will be 4 ohms but speakers with 6-8 ohms are fine too as they present an even easier load for the amplifier.Stay away from cheap mylar or any kind of "plastic" tweeters as they almost always sound harsh, opt for silk domes if you can. Many people have a bias against paper coned speakers though they tend to be the most efficient because of their low mass and can sound excellent, consider phy-hp, phl, visaton or some of the SEAS exotics-$$$$$, all use pulp based cones in many of their flagship models. Check out partsexpress.com, they list tons of speakers by size.

Ertai
7th July 2009, 10:52 PM
i recently replaced the rear 6x9's with some jl audio tx and the difference is amazing. this could partly be to the fact that the jl's are 3 way with a woofer, midrange and tweeter built in. the old speakers are paper cone and the foam around them had actualy discintigrated and as soon as it was touched would turn 2 dust


basically the same thing happened to me. i acquired some 6x9s from a friends, infinity kapas. they are like 6-7years old and have been sitting in his once car for like 3 years. they are also a 3way with the tweeters etc. while i didnt check amps to make sure everything would work, i just dropped them in and they sound amazing. my old rear speakers were paper cones and they disintegrated into dust as well. they looked ancient egyptian!

while the infinitys are 6x9s, and apparently the rears are alittle smaller on the 900. i barely managed to fit the speaker and its natural housing into the compartments. the round lip around the speaker wouldnt lay flat no matter which way i moved it, could only get about half the screws in. it was just small enough so i could get the plastic back over it without looking tacky. i only had to opt out on a few screws in the end. but its hardly noticeable unless i were to point it out.

in the end a fair trade for amazing sound. i currently run my iphone through a fm transimitter so i can listen to my music instead of the radio in the car. the sound is incredible from the rear even with the radio maxed out for awhile. havent noticed any side effects running it like that. my front dash speakers are stock but i fade the speaker to the back enough that it sounds good cranked. another thing is that im always annoyed by the fact that i have to drive around with my antenna always up. im trying to figure out a way where i can disable/delete the power antenna thats stock on our cars and go with something i can hide in the dash or something, even if the signal is just strong enough that my fm transmitter would work. or delete the antenna and go with a cassette, or a new antenna and mount it somewhere (logical but seems like a real hassle).

any suggestions?!

thanks for reading!;)

seidl488
4th August 2009, 08:12 PM
i recently replaced the rear 6x9's with some jl audio tx and the difference is amazing. this could partly be to the fact that the jl's are 3 way with a woofer, midrange and tweeter built in. the old speakers are paper cone and the foam around them had actualy discintigrated and as soon as it was touched would turn 2 dust


how did you get the after market speakers to fit in the rear? the 6x9s. i cant get mine to fit. i know you have to modify but i want to know the best way to mod before i just start cutting stuff up. Thanks

mattsk8
5th August 2009, 01:11 AM
I just did a whole system (door speakers, 12" sub, cd player and 2 amplifiers) in my 99 9-3 convertable. Reconing the factory door speakers sounded dumb at first (cuz they're junk) but actually might make sense cuz of the limited power output of the factory amplifier. Trying to find a speaker that isnt too big power wise that will only play base (cuz that's all your door speakers on the factory amp play) will be tough. I agree about not going to best buy. Check ebay for either Boston Acoustics, MB Quartz, or JL Audio (best sound quality for the $ in my opinion) to do the rears and dash. Dont put 6x9s in the back of a convertable, its a waste of time as you'll get better sound out of a 6 1/2" speaker and its an easy replacement (stock size). Power handling of speakers does make a pretty big difference. You can damage a speaker by under powering it:nono;. Distortion kills speakers and underpowering will create distortion. The other thing to do is check to see if you for sure have door speakers, the grills are there on all 9-3s but speakers may not be behind them; mine didnt have door speakers. If this is the case it will actualy be easier for you to replace only your speakers (not your deck) and achieve better sound cuz you dont have to worry about the hoaky factory "subwoofers:roll:" in the doors. (Just replace dash and rear speakers, leave doors empty.) Hope this helps. I replaced the whole stereo cuz I'm a music junky and wanted extremely quality sound and there's really no way to get that out of the factory deck; the down side to doing this if you dont do it yourself in our Saabs is its fairly pricey:(. (Changing the deck can be pricey at install shops, the speakers are fairly straigh forward.)

MrSmith
5th August 2009, 06:50 PM
just got a set of Kappa 692.7i . haven't installed them yet. gonna wait till the weekend. the factory arent busted, i just wanted an upgrade. what is the dB sensitivity rating on the {factory} 6x9's (it's a 2001 9-5 Aero sedan)

dogie456
5th August 2009, 10:05 PM
i actualy had to remove a piece of the lip of the original saab cover. i used parts from the jl audio as spacers which then gave me the perfect clearance. alternativelz you could just buy some thick spacers from your local hardware.

seidl488
6th August 2009, 07:59 AM
how did you get the after market speakers to fit in the rear? the 6x9s. i cant get mine to fit. i know you have to modify but i want to know the best way to mod before i just start cutting stuff up. Thanks

i think im just going to buy two 5x7s and fit those in there

watkins
6th August 2009, 10:17 AM
I managed to fit mine in by opening the mounting holes a bit more, putting the new speakers in at an angle, and only screwing them down with three of the screws.

MrSmith
8th August 2009, 02:49 PM
well, i got my speakers and i was going outside to replace the old ones, when i got outside it dawned on me. i dont know what im doing. 1st. i dont know how to get the rear speakers out. (9-5 Aero--2001 sedan) 2nd. im not sure what wire is the positive and whats the negative thats conected to the original speakers. does anyone have a clue??

dogie456
9th August 2009, 06:35 AM
Ok actually its quite simple.
1. undo all the torque (or whatever they're called) holding on the long plastic cover. (you will have to lay down the back seats to access a screw on both sides)
2. remove old speakers by undoing the screws which are holding them.
3. unplug the old speakers but check the plug for which one of the wires is positive (mark this wire with some red electrical tape)
4. install a spacer then the new speakers on top.
5. cut away a piece of the inside of the cover to allow the speaker to sit up a bit higher (the part which is already thinner and pointing to the inside of the boot. you may have to experiment to find the right piece)
6. screw then new speakers (and spacers) down.
7. replace cover and crank up that music

tyguy95
11th August 2009, 06:21 AM
go to the junk yard and just try to find good stock speakers from another car. i have a buick and the speakers in that are awesome. just look for some kind of premium sound package

9-3sleeper
11th August 2009, 10:14 AM
I installed JL Audio throughout my car when I first got it. everything works great except the stock amp can't support both 6.5 door woofers so I can only use one of them.

MrSmith
11th August 2009, 06:14 PM
Ok actually its quite simple.
1. undo all the torque (or whatever they're called) holding on the long plastic cover. (you will have to lay down the back seats to access a screw on both sides)
2. remove old speakers by undoing the screws which are holding them.
3. unplug the old speakers but check the plug for which one of the wires is positive (mark this wire with some red electrical tape)
4. install a spacer then the new speakers on top.
5. cut away a piece of the inside of the cover to allow the speaker to sit up a bit higher (the part which is already thinner and pointing to the inside of the boot. you may have to experiment to find the right piece)
6. screw then new speakers (and spacers) down.
7. replace cover and crank up that music

found it out, thx:)
On mine i Let down the seats. removed one single pin/clip on the speaker cover. It slides to me/away from rear window. removed 4 screws from 6x9, lifted the speaker out of the hole. install was perfect fit. screw holes and all.

But Im diappointed.:cry:

i have to turn the base nob all the way up to get the same base i had HALF way with the factory 6x9's. and have to turn the volume higher to get same sound.:(
I thought i did my home work. got some speakers that were suppose to match. Kappa 692.7i with 95dB rating. (unless) i have them wired wrong.

The problem with that is. when disconnecting the old 6x9 plug. i dont know whats pos or neg. there is NO symbol to tell me on plug connection or speakers.

MrSmith
27th August 2009, 06:26 PM
Well im going to try it again. This time I did a little more homework and came up with these. http://www.cdtaudio.com/6x9_series_08.htm
The CDT CL-69SUB

Has anyone ever tried these?? Im giving them a try because they are free air 6x9 woofers. since I dont have a box in the rear shelf, im thinking free air is the way to go. Any thoughts on these???

spinacz_nyc
31st August 2009, 11:16 AM
ive done few cars in my life including my 1999 9-3 and now working on 1999 viggen,

front door speakers will give you enough bass imho

let me try .... ok answer that

HU ?
4 or 6 speakers ( SE or not)
money how much you wanna spend
labor ( how much you willing to spare)


im kind of busy so i do my viggen slowly by stages, cause of delay of cables that i bought i just replaced speakers and left them with stock audio, i dont belive results :D

in my 9-3 ive put 6 speakers ( mb and memphis) 1 sub ( kappa prefect) 2 amps ( orion and mb) and you could go deaf :P loud clean and crisp sound even with sub on lowest it was still nice, ( many ppl who heard it were impressed), with viggen im thinking to go w/o sub cause of weight of it so ill decide later on but still there is a lot you can do o to audio its all about what you need and how much money you wanna spend, if you will get some crappy speakers and or u expect comp sound from stock or if you spend 50$ you wont get it, but there is few ways to improve it even with minimum budget, dont expect miracles ;)

saabchilten
31st August 2009, 05:12 PM
holy crap, i was looking at this thread yesterday, and now a post on it today! i'm even working on a list of speakers right now. here it is so far:
dash: pyramid 312sx (4ohm, 89dB, 100Hz-16kHz, 100W max)
door: pyramid w64 (4ohm, 94dB, 60Hz-5kHz, 200W max)
rear: pyramid 680gx (4ohm, 93dB, 55Hz-21kHz 200W max)

pyramids are cheap, have really high sensitivity, and the w64 seems to be pretty highly reviewed.

spinacz_nyc
1st September 2009, 07:41 AM
i dont like pyramid peronally but maybe you will be happy with it, so just speakers ? stock radio, no sub, no amps ?

saabchilten
1st September 2009, 04:31 PM
yes. that's why i picked them for the sensitivity. unless perhaps you know a brand that's better.

spinacz_nyc
2nd September 2009, 07:55 AM
i never go by number provided by manufacturer not with speakers at least :D heh you c those 800w rms legacy subs ? :cheesy: if its 800w rms my dick is 5ft long ok. now back to seriuos businnes, ive used rockford, mb quart, memphis, pionner, sony, jbl and ifinity speakers amps and subs

my favorite mb quart, for saab perfect set, even discus series will do, 3,5 at dash cinnected as tweeters with 6.5 woofers in doors and 6x9 in back, if SE ( 6 speakers stock) alll you do is switch speakers ( dont need too use crossovers even) and nice deep bass (im using teporary with factory amp and premium series mbs and trim piece on door is vibrating and makes noise outside cause not holding well :) ) perfect system for arround 200-250$, not super loud ( cause stock radio cant push to much) but decent and sounds really nice, for 4 speakers dash and back and aftermarket radio i would go jbl or memphis, but its gonna lack of bass a little, loud system with sub, all jbl or infinty or mb ( but mb need to cut the bass a little etc) etc etc, depends on what you want like i said in post before

fiveiron9688
2nd September 2009, 08:07 AM
holy crap, i was looking at this thread yesterday, and now a post on it today! i'm even working on a list of speakers right now. here it is so far:
dash: pyramid 312sx (4ohm, 89dB, 100Hz-16kHz, 100W max)
door: pyramid w64 (4ohm, 94dB, 60Hz-5kHz, 200W max)
rear: pyramid 680gx (4ohm, 93dB, 55Hz-21kHz 200W max)

pyramids are cheap, have really high sensitivity, and the w64 seems to be pretty highly reviewed.

I want to replace my speakers too...I've got a lot of bass (2 12" subs) but not much mid/high when I'm cruising top down. Are you planning on running these speakers with a stock HU (would it make a difference if you used an aftermarket one?)

spinacz_nyc
2nd September 2009, 08:17 AM
1: 2x12" i hope you have 9-5 :D in hatchback its serious overkill :D
2: im not sure how much is stock radio pumping but aftermarkets are usually 15-20w rms per channel ( which is enough for decent L/Q or med lvl quality sound) stock is prolly little weaker im guessing and factory amp looks like not more than 2x25W, stock vs aftermarket, diffrence, yes but not huge and all depends on aftermarket HU ( cheap brands expect less and usual)
3 if you have 2x12" in trunk and aftermarket radio, adding extra amp and changing speakers isnt much of work ( hopefully you didnt run sub in to amp from rear speaker) and 4x25 rms with good brand amp is making differences

i hope ive covered most here :P

fiveiron9688
2nd September 2009, 01:20 PM
1: 2x12" i hope you have 9-5 :D in hatchback its serious overkill :D
2: im not sure how much is stock radio pumping but aftermarkets are usually 15-20w rms per channel ( which is enough for decent L/Q or med lvl quality sound) stock is prolly little weaker im guessing and factory amp looks like not more than 2x25W, stock vs aftermarket, diffrence, yes but not huge and all depends on aftermarket HU ( cheap brands expect less and usual)
3 if you have 2x12" in trunk and aftermarket radio, adding extra amp and changing speakers isnt much of work ( hopefully you didnt run sub in to amp from rear speaker) and 4x25 rms with good brand amp is making differences

i hope ive covered most here :P

I don't think it's possible to have overkill when you're going 75 topless:cheesy:. I have a separate amp for the subs, but I should get another amp for the speakers too? Or can I just throw new good component speakers in?

spinacz_nyc
2nd September 2009, 01:56 PM
its is overkill :D i stuck in my gf impala 2x12 alpine r types and im pumping just 200W to each, it turns the alarm on, free massage, feeling like someone is drilling in your ears and headache ofter 2-3 songs :D

anyway, if you have aftermarket HU, and want nice and loud, i would recommend to with at least small amp for speakers reason: 1 with huge amount of bass you wont hear much of difference if you just switch speakers ( at least going loud) 2nd you wont use much of speakers potential, 3rd you will be able nicely adjust whole system ( cut off lows on speakers and crank them up nice and loud)

and if you go with 6 speakers i would recommend passive crossover for front speakers, and go with 1 way in door and woofers ( w mids ) and 3.5 with highs only, lows you should have plenty from subs

just start with replacing speakers, if you will feel like you need little louder always can add a amp, ( but also amp have build in crossovers so it will let you adjust better than radio - me, my radio is always flat, all adjustments im doing on amps)

gl&hf

saabchilten
2nd September 2009, 04:35 PM
i never go by number provided by manufacturer not with speakers at least :D heh you c those 800w rms legacy subs ?
true. all i want is efficiency and good sound. i don't need loud bass by any means as long as it doesn't sound muddy (and many subs do in my opinion). if the sensitivity ratings on the pyramids are accurate, than the 100W rms won't even be an issue. i never turn my radio up beyond halfway, even going 80 with the top down, so no risk of overheating the speakers due to a poor signal from lack of power. and let me tell you, anything will sound better than my disintegrating woofers.

mr rx-7 tt
3rd September 2009, 08:04 PM
This place is great...
http://www.parts-express.com/home.cfm

spinacz_nyc
4th September 2009, 07:59 AM
looks interesting, amazing prices but anyone tried those ? i dont trust on site reviews :cool:

mr rx-7 tt
4th September 2009, 11:04 AM
looks interesting, amazing prices but anyone tried those ? i dont trust on site reviews :cool:Yep, used them for our business for decades. I used them recently for my door speakers.

spinacz_nyc
4th September 2009, 11:30 AM
which brand ?

mr rx-7 tt
4th September 2009, 11:35 AM
which brand ?I'll look a bit later for you as I can't remember. They sound good. Much higher quality than the originals.

spinacz_nyc
4th September 2009, 01:37 PM
i would like to try them

Satinsax
9th September 2009, 08:25 PM
Replaced rear stock rear speakers today with JL Audio coaxials. They sound much better but now I need to think about an aftermarket amp. Not enough power.

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm107/SoulBluesSax/Photo_090909_005.jpg

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm107/SoulBluesSax/Photo_090909_006.jpg