1990 T16S Convertible restoration - Auto to Manual Conversion (and a lot more). [Archive] - SaabCentral Forums

: 1990 T16S Convertible restoration - Auto to Manual Conversion (and a lot more).


Angus
2nd June 2009, 04:53 AM
Firstly, let me introduce myself. I am not new to the world of the Classic Saab 900. My first experience was back in 1988 at the sweet age of 14 when my parents purchased a brand new dark blue 8 valve 900i (the donor car in this project!!). I loved that car and since that time my interest in Saab grew. I got my first Saab 900 in 1998 at the age of 24; it was a 1989 Black 900 T8 Special Edition (which I still have, but is now T16S and modified). Since then I have owned a further 5 Classic 900’s, in all forms – 2 door, 3 door, 4 door, 5 door and convertible, and all engine types from 8V injection through to 16V turbo. I have played with modifying these cars over the years and fully restored 3 of them to date, with the convertible project being the most recent.
Anyway, enough rambling. The main reason I chose to post this project on here is because so far no one has documented an auto to manual conversion. Searching the forums showed me that a lot of people have done it (or plan to do it) and a lot of questions continually get asked. Hopefully this project should be able to answer a lot of questions through pictures and prove to be of help to others. This project was not just the gearbox conversion, it was also a host of other work too. I hope it is of some interest!
Before I start posting about the convertible, for interest here are some pics of a few of my 900’s past and present:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2456/3587862995_16c5cd9a35_o.jpg
1985 T16 4 door

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3351/3587864661_a566a7762c_o.jpg
1988 900i 5 door – (my parents old car and donor car for the auto to manual)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3616/3587867281_ce7faafb8d_o.jpg
1989 T8 Special Edition 3 door (now T16S with aero kit etc)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3372/3588677828_5b913ba573_o.jpg
1990 T16S Convertible – the car in the project in original condition

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3327/3587872135_c0f4e80c24_o.jpg
1993 T16 LPT 3 door

James Bond
2nd June 2009, 05:03 AM
Great stuff - you might inspire me to change mine, although it is left hand drive.

I'll be following closely - I could never get to the bottom of which gearbox to get.

And, if you find a no. 8 primary, please let me know.

Angus
2nd June 2009, 05:38 AM
In this post and the next is the work I did to the car prior to the auto to manual conversion:

Fixed minor rust spots on inner wheel arches and touched up paintwork in engine bay / wheel arches and underside. Fitted new Sachs/Boge sports lowering springs (-40mm) and Bilstein HD shocks:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3640/3588791696_45b107bca9_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3555/3587977455_85dc32bdf2_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3352/3588782232_4785cbafe5_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3629/3587962917_9640af77ea_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3305/3588777636_7c8c107e6a_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3560/3588773930_69dac991d4_o.jpg

Angus
2nd June 2009, 05:39 AM
Replaced radiator with a good used one.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3325/3588767428_9ed77d089f_o.jpg

Fitted new 17” Fox Racing alloys and Yokohama 215/40 ZR17 tyres and full 3" de-cat exhaust with standard type downpipe
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3297/3587950589_407cffaf69_o.jpg

Replaced front bumper with good used spare (old one was damaged) and fitted new front lower bumper spoiler. Bumper will need painted in the future....
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3604/3587954209_aae66cc4e5_o.jpg

Replaced front seats with new leather sport seats, a very good colour match to the interior. This simply required the fabrication of a pair of brackets to allow the install.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3312/3588794358_525ccc875f_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3328/3588797762_274abec5c8_o.jpg

Angus
2nd June 2009, 06:52 AM
Now we move on to the conversion and other more recent work. As mentioned above the donor car was my parents old 900i. It was great to know the entire history of the car and know that it had been pampered its whole life (until rust got the better of it), the mileage was just over 100,000 and the gearbox was super smooth and always had been. I had changed the gearbox oil in this car twice over a period of about 7 years during routine servicing of the car, so knew it was about as good a 2nd hand box as I could expect to get. Here is the car with the engine already removed, and a pic of the complete engine/ gearbox.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3651/3588108031_54f493f1db_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3402/3588916154_6eb9819c67_o.jpg

Here is the convertible positioned for engine removal and beginning of work:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3399/3588917070_a3c499856e_o.jpg

First step, remove seats, lower dash, centre console and carpeting / sound proofing:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2482/3588111621_920aba4dae_o.jpg

Getting ready for engine removal, ball-joints unbolted, drive shafts and steering knuckle removed.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3602/3588113747_e7f11a4119_o.jpg

Engine ready for removal, all wiring removed, auto shifter cable disconnected inside cabin, all pipe work etc removed from engine bay. Turbo (Mitsu TE05-12B) and manifold removed – the turbo was sent off the CR Turbos for a rebuild and upgrade to 16G (will be covered in a later post)

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2457/3588112789_eb35922dc8_o.jpg

Angus
2nd June 2009, 07:31 AM
Lifting commences:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3345/3588967342_31d9cd4389_o.jpg

Engine out. Removing the drive shafts completely makes this a very simple operation, as the lift is practically straight up, no need to manoeuvre the engine left or right.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3368/3588969120_b153d0aecb_o.jpg

With the engine removed I started to look at the differences between the shifter mechanisms on the two cars. The wiring was the same (albeit the convertible has an aftermarket immobiliser wired in to the ignition system) apart from the different location of reverse switch and the extra orange and green wires on the automatic assembly. The orange wire is there to tell the car it is NOT in Park, and will not allow the starter to operate. Disconnecting defeats this circuit. The green wire is there for a light to show what gear you are in. Again, disconnecting defeats this circuit, so both the orange and green are now insulated and tucked away. The other thing to note is that the yellow and yellow/red cables on the auto gear selector need to be joined to allow power to the starter.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3311/3588162691_2584e53805_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3343/3588167283_42c8c03c3d_o.jpg

Here is a couple of pics of what the convertible would hopefully look like after swapping the manual components’ over....

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3617/3588163837_46bdbfeb52_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3335/3588968342_3f7345a60a_o.jpg

KurBads
2nd June 2009, 07:58 AM
wow ... quite some nice cars you have!
I bet it`s hard to see a car your parents bought from new now serving just as a donor :roll:

Angus
2nd June 2009, 08:45 AM
Here are the drive shafts – they will be getting new CV boots and ball joints later on, like I mentioned before, it makes life a lot easier when removing an engine to take these off the car completely.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3331/3589070488_b3f7bebb1c_o.jpg

Goodbye auto-box. It kind of looks like he has made his own way out of the shed, poor little fella!! I didn’t take any pictures of removing it from the engine, but it was pretty straightforward.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2089/3588269827_74208a2c74_o.jpg

Who’s this? Kind of looks like Dougal from the magic roundabout (or is it just me!!). Here’s the manual box from the old 8V engine after cleaning.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3364/3588271411_32df7600a1_o.jpg

Engine on the bench ready for stripping and cleaning:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3360/3588270621_06f11dfc5e_o.jpg

Engine stripped, but with head still attached, next job is cleaning.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3363/3588272181_5105e324fb_o.jpg

Angus
2nd June 2009, 09:08 AM
OK, engine block now cleaned, core plugs removed – the lower core plug was pitted and leaking and the upper one was not a lot better.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3359/3589163410_edf852def3_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3554/3588356573_73a5bf8b55_o.jpg


Some pics of dimensions for core plugs (may help if you are buying new ones). I got replacements for about 75 pence each!! Bargain.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3624/3589165542_f08dafa7ce_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3655/3588358841_6f23507ccb_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2034/3589167668_31a3b71dcd_o.jpg

Angus
2nd June 2009, 09:24 AM
wow ... quite some nice cars you have!
I bet it`s hard to see a car your parents bought from new now serving just as a donor :roll:
Well, yes and no. That car gave an excellent service over the course of its life and in many ways its better to see it stripped for parts than sent to a scrap yard. Unfortunately this car developed quite serious rust around the driveshaft tunnels and in the end was beyond repair. My parents do miss it, but they now have a 9000 Aero and the old 900 is becoming a distant memory..

Angus
2nd June 2009, 10:00 AM
Engine bay cleaning, de rusting, priming and painting:

From this – as it looked after engine was removed:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3588/3589282642_1930e46c48_o.jpg

To this, after cleaning and de-rusting:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2432/3589290042_71aec74e72_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3389/3588480719_faa6263553_o.jpg

Angus
2nd June 2009, 10:29 AM
Primed with red oxide primer – 2 coats:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2437/3588533527_ea009a61fc_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3404/3588536539_868fbf7d1b_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3611/3588538335_3a10c97fff_o.jpg

Top coat – 3 coats: All hand painted with small brush and a foam roller.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3307/3588540407_8bc1d1ca9c_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3604/3589349918_51e82692f5_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3628/3588534901_84838522bd_o.jpg

Angus
2nd June 2009, 11:21 AM
Back to the engine. Basic plan - replacing cylinder head with Saab 9000 2.3 turbo head (that has new valve stem oil seals fitted) also fitting a ‘2.3 gasket matched’ intake manifold, new timing chain, cogs and tensioner, new water pump, new crank seals and all other gaskets replaced. I compression tested the engine prior to beginning this job, it was near perfect 160psi on each cylinder – quite amazing for 180,000 miles, but the car had been serviced every 6000 miles or less from new, so I guess it definitely paid off. I was thinking about fully re –building the bottom end but could see no point. That is in my next project J

Some stuff stripped off engine:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3395/3589445376_bc4ceb9f45_o.jpg

Block ready for new head, all pistons cleaned – the piston bores were perfectly smooth.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2458/3589447026_05708a75b3_o.jpg

Timing gear end of engine, all ready for new timing gear.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2429/3589448418_cd484e4bc2_o.jpg

The original oil pump, I just replaced the seal here, the pump appeared to be near perfect.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3612/3588642593_0ecd541475_o.jpg

Oil / water pump and timing chain housing.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3348/3589451084_aa1bc7f4da_o.jpg

Angus
2nd June 2009, 11:37 AM
Block ready for new cylinder head:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3619/3589533824_872900c6ee_o.jpg

Comparison between 2.0 and 2.3 intake ports. 2.3 head is the upper one. Note the requirement to swap the exhaust cam from the 2.0 head on to the 2.3 head if you (like me) are retaining your distributor.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3606/3588725063_b091521914_o.jpg

New bolts for the head.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3395/3588727633_c0e7b84d2e_o.jpg

New timing gear assembled

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2452/3588723589_30142089da_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2427/3588719603_9ecd6a63eb_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3379/3588721369_7e40a6eeb0_o.jpg

Alex
2nd June 2009, 05:20 PM
Good to see you back on the forums Angus.

Vince is going to get fed up doing these TE-05 16G hybrids (I have one sat in the boot of my car waiting to be sent off as well :D). He is really a Garrett man as well.

Angus
3rd June 2009, 12:45 AM
Good to see you back on the forums Angus.

Vince is going to get fed up doing these TE-05 16G hybrids (I have one sat in the boot of my car waiting to be sent off as well :D). He is really a Garrett man as well.
Cheers! Good to be back :-) I can certainly say that the quality of CR Turbos work is second to none as will be shown in my later posts. I was amazed at how quick the turn around was to be honest, and when I got the tiurbo back it was so perfect I was convinced it was actually brand new!!!

Angus
3rd June 2009, 01:06 AM
New water pump

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3652/3590769497_1d6fd94616_o.jpg

Timing cover, oil pump, crank pulley and water pump installed

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3393/3590770683_2b32e09cab_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3654/3591581138_de7c64ff64_o.jpg

Painted engine block and parts of gearbox

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3412/3590777271_1937781c34_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3589/3591586172_127b27f494_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3611/3590774603_970121b2b3_o.jpg

Angus
3rd June 2009, 01:17 AM
Gearbox connected and more stuff added to engine. Only thing to remember when swapping the gearboxes is to swap the oil pick up pipe from the manual car over.
Most components were either powder coated or enamel painted. I used a wire brush ‘cup’ on my angle grinder to give the clean finish to the exhaust manifold, I also used bolts here, not studs on the advice of a few people on this forum.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3379/3591627628_673ce8ebf7_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3350/3591630038_f06ae34a33_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3320/3591629396_b0acb81901_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3367/3591628646_6a54cbf124_o.jpg

Angus
3rd June 2009, 01:32 AM
The reconditioned / upgraded turbo.....

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3593/3590832885_85d39b103d_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3357/3591646484_81b0b6aba1_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2481/3591645518_79761a8075_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3592/3590833837_73c4eb3543_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3320/3590831529_d2e5127a5b_o.jpg

Attached to engine.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2434/3590842635_70e99b2e02_o.jpg

Angus
3rd June 2009, 02:02 AM
Some powder coated / painted bits still to fit to the engine:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3380/3591667336_66f8450ae5_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2484/3591670168_183b5e4c0f_o.jpg


‘Gasket matching’ the 2.0 intake manifold to the 2.3 head. I borrowed this tool from my father, it runs off an air compressor and makes very light work of the job.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3616/3590863693_b4bfe15b56_o.jpg

Rough marking of what was to be removed

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3556/3591671100_5bbd263fa8_o.jpg

Finished job – close up of one port

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3593/3590865369_ae0245d570_o.jpg

Angus
3rd June 2009, 02:27 AM
Engine nearing completion, just flywheel and clutch to attach

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3367/3590914303_eaa5377d72_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3590/3591742870_e8e792723a_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3334/3590923829_76967f46d9_o.jpg

Aluminium flywheel – note it had no timing marks so I had to add these using a pin punch and my dremel...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2458/3590921927_67a095a148_o.jpg

Performance clutch disc, supposedly made of Kevlar ceramic or something – I bought this over 2 years ago and can’t remember the specification of it unfortunately

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3596/3591735662_7685643117_o.jpg

New pressure plate and release bearing

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3612/3591739372_9d2d1e5557_o.jpg

Angus
3rd June 2009, 02:56 AM
Clutch and flywheel fitted.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2456/3590985761_68667160c1_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3655/3591794186_e38dca833e_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2425/3591795250_b9980e6186_o.jpg

Clutch cover fitted.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3607/3591796174_9da0d48549_o.jpg

Timing marks visible through the clutch cover.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3566/3591800748_8901401222_o.jpg

Alex
3rd June 2009, 04:30 AM
Cheers! Good to be back :-) I can certainly say that the quality of CR Turbos work is second to none as will be shown in my later posts. I was amazed at how quick the turn around was to be honest, and when I got the tiurbo back it was so perfect I was convinced it was actually brand new!!!

I assume his collection / delivery is slightly different for you though as I'm not sure his man in a van would go that far North :D

Very pleased with the work that he did on my first TE05. Power characteristics are very good as well.

Angus
3rd June 2009, 05:21 AM
OK, back to swapping the manual equipment over from the blue car to the convertible. This was the part of the job I was most apprehensive about as I had no info at hand from anyone who had carried out this swap on a right hand drive car. The good thing with having a donor car though is that you can literally rip it apart to clearly see how things operate instead of worrying about carefully removing individual components. My way of removing the parts I needed from the blue car was simply to remove the front seat, carpets and under carpets, the lower dash and centre console, then to fully dismantle and remove the dashboard, then remove all ventilation ducting and everything else from around the pedal assembly’s. Personally I love ripping cars apart, so this bit was a lot of fun J. I then unbolted the pedal assembly from inside the engine bay and finally from inside the cabin. You also need to unbolt the clutch master cylinder from inside the car to remove the assembly. I also dismantled the steering column to get the pedal assembly out complete.

The whole time I was doing this I was picturing the re-fitting in to the convertible, and was looking at ways to minimise the amount of disassembly of that car. When I had the manual pedal assembly on the floor and I compared it to what was in the convertible I saw that the only difference was the inclusion of a clutch pedal and connecting rod, and obviously the difference between the sizes of the brake pedals. The automatic cars share virtually the same assembly, and the holes for mounting a clutch pedal are all there. This made things a lot clearer for me, so I simply removed the clutch pedal from the manual assembly – it is connected by a washer and circlip at each end and then installed it in the convertible. This is not as simple as it sounds as you have to loosen the auto pedal assembly from both sides of the bulkhead, then disconnect the brake master cylinder connection, and disconnect the passenger side end of the brake pedal assembly, followed by carefully manoeuvring the clutch pedal assembly in place.

At this point I will start putting some pictures in, as they can explain things a lot better than I! All I will end by saying is that the installation of the clutch pedal took me just 30 minutes, but due to the awkwardness and the poor access to carry out the task it felt a lot longer.

Later on I will cover the other details with the clutch hydraulics and connection for cruise control.

The manual assembly in the blue car

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3658/3591919170_55c0256904_o.jpg

Screws removed from the accelerator pedal assembly at the bulkhead

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3643/3591112655_229e16bc7b_o.jpg

Nuts removed from bulkhead inside engine bay – these hold the drivers side of the assembly to the car

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3664/3591114187_324bf0a245_o.jpg

Disconnecting the accelerator cable

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3327/3591115759_015d659f8a_o.jpg

This picture shows the clutch master cylinder disconnected from the clutch pedal assembly

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3408/3591923760_5781a85b78_o.jpg

This is the connection to the brake master cylinder – it also has to be disconnected

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3326/3591116779_5c0be3e828_o.jpg

Angus
3rd June 2009, 05:35 AM
OK, here is the complete manual pedal assembly on the floor after being removed

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3603/3591924730_7ee5bb8092_o.jpg

To remove the clutch pedal you need to disconnect the circlip and remove the washer from each end. You can see these at the left hand side of the picture.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3413/3591117731_7aa8258690_o.jpg

OK, inside the convertible now, here is what the automatic pedal assembly looked like at the passenger side end. You can see the hole for the clutch pedal to the left of the image, and you can also see that I have already removed the washer and circlip from the end of the brake pedal assembly.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3417/3591119461_530a868eee_o.jpg

This is the washer and circlip you need to remove

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3589/3591927204_9f6f9fa058_o.jpg

Inside the engine bay at the bulkhead you need to remove these nuts to allow the automatic assembly to move on the inside thereby allowing the space to fit the clutch pedal in.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3407/3591930340_cf86e4948f_o.jpg

You also need to remove these two nuts to allow the moving of the auto assembly. These will be re-fitted when you install the clutch master cylinder – covered later.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3599/3591124589_5c7bdb6085_o.jpg

Angus
3rd June 2009, 05:47 AM
This is the blanking plate removed – you will replace this with the clutch master cylinder. You can see in to the engine bay now!!

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3301/3591125179_1a45051400_o.jpg

With the automatic pedal assembly loose you can now install the clutch pedal. This is the fiddly bit of the job as you will be scrambling all over the inside of the car (mostly on your back or in some awkward twisted position) to work the pedal in to its connection holes.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3556/3591934148_d1ce50fc1d_o.jpg

This picture (it’s not the best I’m afraid) attempts to show the routing to follow to get the clutch pedal in position over at the passenger side...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3612/3591127299_ff7fbff06a_o.jpg

This one shows the pedal assembly end very close to insertion in the hole.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3305/3591127801_764f20ec51_o.jpg

When you get the passenger side pushed in, move over to the drivers side...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3619/3591129345_b585ba0ee2_o.jpg

Angus
3rd June 2009, 06:07 AM
And she’s in!! A little more fiddling and the driver’s side connection is lifted and pushed in place. When this is done you need to put the washers and circlips on each end of the pedal assembly, then re-bolt the assembly to the bulkhead. You can install the clutch master cylinder after that.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3291/3591942612_8f56f7afda_o.jpg

Next install the clutch master cylinder to the bulkhead (view from engine bay)

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2457/3591948714_18fb619800_o.jpg

View from inside – you can connect the pedal to the master cylinder now

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2461/3591950254_e3f72182d1_o.jpg

You then need to connect a hose from the bottom of the fluid reservoir to the clutch master. Remember to drain the fluid before doing this!! There is a connection on the reservoir already, you just need to cut the bottom off it with a sharp knife.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2213/3591951388_1c152b58ec_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3313/3591959628_7afd1588dd_o.jpg

Angus
3rd June 2009, 06:25 AM
Finally – Install the clutch fluid line. You can take all clips from the donor car to connect this properly.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3070/3591960588_225db7f4a4_o.jpg

Next step, swap the gear selector assembly from the manual car over. This is very simple and I personally did not bother swapping the ignition barrel as I am also swapping the door locks over from the donor car.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3603/3591137023_5e7772d09a_o.jpg

Notice the drill bit? That locks the gear selector in to 3rd gear – this is essential when you connect the linkage to the gearbox.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3627/3591140315_94de6ca13c_o.jpg

If you have cruise control on your car there is one final job to be done to complete the auto to manual conversion – you need to install one extra ‘cut-out’ vacuum switch to a bracket above the clutch pedal. Luckily the bracket is already there but you will need to find a switch, a length of silicone hose, a T-piece, some short electrical cables and connectors. The job is very simple; just connect the extra switch in along with the one that is connected near the brake pedal. Here are a couple of pictures that may help. You will see the red silicone hose and T-piece; they are from the new switch.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2458/3591307867_d8def3dbe8_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3306/3592115398_35c4a86039_o.jpg

Angus
3rd June 2009, 06:44 AM
I assume his collection / delivery is slightly different for you though as I'm not sure his man in a van would go that far North :D

Very pleased with the work that he did on my first TE05. Power characteristics are very good as well.
I sent him my turbo by Royal Mail and it was couriered back to me after the job was done.

Angus
3rd June 2009, 07:12 AM
Right – with all of that done the next thing was to get the engine back in. The next few pictures are pretty self explanatory. When I put an engine back in to a 900 I do most of the connections as I am lowering the engine back in to the car. I bolt the oil filter housing on at a suitable time, I reconnect the speedometer cable in a similar way, and the same goes with power steering pipes and some of the electrical connections etc. The only things to connect from below are the gear linkage and the drive shafts.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2466/3591363337_e60d69db46_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3393/3592174124_a38f23b75e_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3004/3592175096_1d24630d8d_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3391/3592177178_45756544d2_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3301/3592178148_08be1719e5_o.jpg

Angus
3rd June 2009, 07:52 AM
With the engine in place it was just a case of reconnecting everything back up, connecting the gear linkage and then going about with the final part of the project. I had a 3” downpipe to bolt on and a nice FMIC with a selection of pipe-work to install. I also wanted to move the battery over to the passenger side of the engine bay.

3” downpipe and O2 sensors installed – one of the O2 sensors is for a lambda display unit I was going to install in the dash

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3559/3591433857_c2c0c20ae1_o.jpg

Injectors and fuel rail installed

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2440/3592241320_573a897e1a_o.jpg

Radiator and fan installed

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3321/3591435935_58984086c6_o.jpg

Trial look to see if the battery would actually fit at the passenger side – it did! Amazingly the battery tray also fitted with just a very small amount of modification. I even managed to bolt the battery tray to the underside of the engine bay using the original threaded rods on the battery tray.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3657/3591436569_f9b8a84fdb_o.jpg

Angus
3rd June 2009, 08:15 AM
Next job fit the FMIC. This was an eBay intercooler and I must say that I was very impressed with the build quality considering the low price. The dimensions were as follows:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3555/3592261688_713d931821_o.jpg

Here is the initial trial fit – I always knew the towing eyes would have to be removed, but at least I could now mark out the position I wanted it to be in.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2426/3591472033_5d55b72bff_o.jpg

Towing eyes removed using my trusty angle grinder:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3332/3591472817_b91974bd44_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3313/3591473499_daa4babc2f_o.jpg

Pipe work installed driver’s side then passenger side. I mostly used the original Saab aluminium pipes and all the couplers, but required 2 x 90 degree 2.5” pipes and some other rubber hoses. I cut these pipes to the correct length with the angle grinder.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3661/3591474569_b8ed40247e_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3564/3591475391_6043ee8b46_o.jpg

Angus
3rd June 2009, 09:04 AM
Next job was to clean and return the interior. I also repainted the door entrance sills.

From this:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3618/3591550989_24b398bb0a_o.jpg

To this: At this stage I remembered I had to cut the brake pedal down to size, so out came the angle grinder again, and I shaped it correctly.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2454/3591552009_8ea9efabc2_o.jpg

To this.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3383/3591553045_740ba4c977_o.jpg

3 pedals instead of two... Nice!

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2478/3592361752_313a19d7bb_o.jpg

Full interior completed

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3615/3592363160_b165b42056_o.jpg

Angus
3rd June 2009, 09:20 AM
I now just had to sort out the drive shafts and get the bumper back on. I replaced all 4 ball joints and all 4 CV boots and grease. This is very easy to do when you have the drive shafts on the bench. To do the boots simply remove the circlip from the inner tripod and pull it off the drive shaft with a medium sized 3 jaw puller. I then removed the old boots, degreased and cleaned everything and fitted new boots before tapping the inner tripod back on with a rubber mallet.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3299/3592381486_3b2989d5e9_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3353/3591575341_442ee7a762_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3615/3592385168_9593c99112_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3602/3592386844_b00b4d88b1_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3324/3592388086_193887a7ac_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3590/3591581767_911b9d6922_o.jpg

motomartin
3rd June 2009, 09:17 PM
excellent pics and work - a really good thread

Angus
4th June 2009, 12:26 AM
excellent pics and work - a really good thread
Thanks!

unkleG'sif
4th June 2009, 03:31 PM
how long do you reckon it took in total....?
i reckon if you hadnt been taking so many fine pictures, she'd have been back on the road in half the time :cool:

seriously good work tho

G

Angus
4th June 2009, 11:15 PM
how long do you reckon it took in total....?
i reckon if you hadnt been taking so many fine pictures, she'd have been back on the road in half the time :cool:

seriously good work tho

G
Cheers! I did the auto to manual conversion and the engine and engine bay work between 29th of March and 8th May this year during my time off work (I do 6 weeks offshore 6 weeks on leave). I kept a rough diary of how long it took and it was about 80 hours total. If I had not bothered with the cleaning and painting it would have been less The cleaning and painting was probably the most time consuming part of this job though - for example painitng the engine bay took 1 week due to waiting for the paint to dry properly between coats.

Shan
5th June 2009, 11:16 AM
Love this shot, and nice wheels you have there ! :D


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3353/3591575341_442ee7a762_o.jpg

Angus
5th June 2009, 11:29 AM
Love this shot, and nice wheels you have there ! :D
Thanks!

unkleG'sif
6th June 2009, 08:10 AM
.....painitng the engine bay took 1 week due to waiting for the paint to dry properly between coats.

its a bugger isnt it?!

G

Angus
24th June 2009, 06:30 AM
I will be returning home soon from my 6 week off-shore shift and will hopefully take this project to its end. Next things to do are fit a short-shift, fit a rear Carlsson bumper and repair and repaint the existing bumper and bodykit. I am planning a gloss back for the bumpers, hopefully it will look good. I will document these jobs too. Not sure how the painting work will turn out as I plan to do a proper spray paint job. I have only ever painted with spray cans before, so it will be a learning curve!!

Angus
8th July 2009, 06:52 PM
Got round to fitting my short shift kit and a custom grille I made over a year ago! I was not going to fit the grill until I had repainted the body kit, but could not resist fitting it now the car was so close to completion.

Had a few niggles to fix with the car over the last week as well, the clutch slave (brand new, just been on the car for 20 miles) burst its seals for some unknown reason, so had to be replaced, and I had to remove the exhaust manifold as it was leaking. The manifold turned out to be quite badly warped, so I had to take it to a machine shop to get them to resurface it. They did a perfect job and the car now sounds sweet.

The other irritation I suffered was the check engine light illuminating a few times. I convinced myself this was due to an 'eBay special' O2 sensor I replaced my original with, but when I pulled the codes from the ECU it turned out to be the Airflow meter to blame. The car still runs OK, but according to my Lambda display it is pretty lean across the whole rev band and the idle is a little lumpy and hunts slightly. I managed to source a newly reconditioned unit for £90 delivered, and it came in tonight’s post. I have a few old spare Lucas Airflow units in my shed, but decided to bite the bullet and get a new one. Hopefully it will be a worthwhile investment.

Heres the latest pics.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3506/3701883293_1554bc6d1d_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2556/3702690948_cee1409f74_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3522/3701882069_d114059f45_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2598/3701882817_bd454e358f_o.jpg

Angus
9th July 2009, 09:21 AM
New MAF and some other engine pics. No more CEL with new MAF and back to smoother idle, was worth the money :-)

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2585/3703518521_0f413fa97c_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2443/3704326300_d38d437453_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3533/3703518875_296efc3485_o.jpg

motomartin
9th July 2009, 04:52 PM
you left the connector of your apc solenoid while you were painting everything red :D

Angus
9th July 2009, 04:58 PM
yo left the connector of your apc solenoid while you were painting everything red :D
Well spotted, but the fact is I have not connected it since the re-build, I am in the process of running in the new clutch etc and it will be a few hundred miles yet until I start pushing high boost through it. I have the wastegate set to 7psi just now though and it is already pulling like a train :D

Angus
14th July 2009, 07:34 PM
Can anyone let me know where I can either buy or better still borrow the Saab special tool for fitting of the rear (flywheel end) crankshaft oil seal? I can find a few suppliers in the USA but do not want to wait a long time for delivery.
I replaced this seal when I was rebuilding my convertible and did it when the engine was out. I lubricated the new seal with clean oil and gently manipulated the seal in to position by hand. I thought it looked OK but looking back I think I seated it a little too deep and today oil is pi**ing out from the clutch cover and washing down both sides of the gearbox. I am convinced this seal is the problem as the oil is being caught by the flywheel and is spraying the entire inside of the clutch cover. What is most annoying is that I had the clutch out about 2 weeks ago to replace a dodgy slave cylinder, now I will need to get in there again - oh joy!!!

Looking forward to your replys, Angus

RickyS
15th July 2009, 06:47 PM
Nice work.

Rear cranshaft seal tool:

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1557197&postcount=4

Angus
1st September 2009, 07:28 AM
Great stuff - you might inspire me to change mine, although it is left hand drive.

I'll be following closely - I could never get to the bottom of which gearbox to get.

And, if you find a no. 8 primary, please let me know.
Just for info, my personal experience with gearboxes has just been with type 6 and type 7 primaries. To be absolutely honest in terms of drivability there is very little difference between them even though on paper you might think so. I have never experienced a type 8, but I imagine if you were using a type 5 or 6 and went to 8 then you might see / feel a difference. As it stands the convertible has type 6 in it and gives impressive acceleration up to 100mph+. This is all I need and want from this car and again to be honest even with type 8 it would only add a potential few extra mph to top speed. Perhaps the fuel economy may improve slightly, but at the loss of lower speed acceleration. I would not change my convertible to type 7 even though I could.

Alex
1st September 2009, 08:45 AM
There is a very noticeable difference going from Type 6 to 8 primaries. The 6s feel way to low with the car reving out very quickly. First is useless, 2nd not much better and 3rd runs out at around 75mph. The 8s are just much more sensible making 2nd and 3rd useful gears. They just have to be matched to a turbo which comes in early (2000rpm or so), such as the TE-05 16G hybrid.

Angus
28th September 2009, 06:10 AM
Just another little update and also a request for assistance. The car is going very well but as a continuation from my CEL and MAF problems of a while back I am now suffering another issue. By no means is it a 'show-stopper' but it is extremely irritating......
Every time I start the car from cold, she fires in to life and immediately settles in to a lovely smooth idle. Almost exactly 20 seconds from start up she bogs down and will stall unless the accelerator is pressed firmly. If you re start the car after the stall she again settles in to a smooth idle and will be fine for the rest of the day.... Has anyone experienced this before? Any idea where I should be looking? I have no fault codes (car is 1990 Lucas with O2 sensor). I have changed the ECU for a good spare so far but still have the same symptom. I have also checked every EFI component as per the Lucas manual and all resistances etc are in spec.
Help!?

Alex
30th September 2009, 02:18 PM
I had this on my old 2dr. Turned out to be impending head gasket failure. I assume water level is holding?

gotaquestion
1st October 2009, 08:30 PM
Every time I start the car from cold, she fires in to life and immediately settles in to a lovely smooth idle. Almost exactly 20 seconds from start up she bogs down and will stall unless the accelerator is pressed firmly. Could check throttle body, and clean with carb cleaner. Also check vacuum leaks.

Angus
2nd October 2009, 05:01 AM
I had this on my old 2dr. Turned out to be impending head gasket failure. I assume water level is holding?
Everything is spot on, no leaks, all perfect. Still got the issue but I guess I will need to live with it. I am convinced it is something electrical and perhaps related to the O2 sensor, but need to do a lot more fiddling around until I figure it out.

Angus
12th May 2011, 02:08 PM
I had this on my old 2dr. Turned out to be impending head gasket failure. I assume water level is holding?
It's been a while since I last posted an update here, but done around 3000 happy miles in the car and made a few more improvements. Unforunately the car developed an engine oil leak that I have not pin pointed - it unfortunately leaks in to the clutch housing and has contaminated the clutch, also I think the head gasket must be leaking a little too, as I am suffering a small amount of coolant loss with no signs of leaking externally. Also, a couple of the exhaust bolts have somehow come loose and the internal threads are damaged on the 2.3 head.
The plans I have coming up are to remove the head to check it out, I might send it for reconditioning - my gut feeling is the oil leak is from the rear of the head (I used no sealant on the head gasket here). I will drill, tap and fit helicoils to the damaged exhaust manifold stud holes, and when I re-install will use plenty loctite 518 around the area it appears to be leaking now.
I am going to buy an uprated clutch to fit - I see a nice one on eBay just now so will report back on what it's like.
Next report will be pictures of the head repairs and re-fitting.

Angus
16th July 2011, 03:09 PM
Just another little update and also a request for assistance. The car is going very well but as a continuation from my CEL and MAF problems of a while back I am now suffering another issue. By no means is it a 'show-stopper' but it is extremely irritating......
Every time I start the car from cold, she fires in to life and immediately settles in to a lovely smooth idle. Almost exactly 20 seconds from start up she bogs down and will stall unless the accelerator is pressed firmly. If you re start the car after the stall she again settles in to a smooth idle and will be fine for the rest of the day.... Has anyone experienced this before? Any idea where I should be looking? I have no fault codes (car is 1990 Lucas with O2 sensor). I have changed the ECU for a good spare so far but still have the same symptom. I have also checked every EFI component as per the Lucas manual and all resistances etc are in spec.
Help!?
Well, solved this one today... Turned out that the earth point at the front cross member in the engine bay had a slightly loose bolt. I removed it, sanded all corrosion off the contacts, refitted the bolt nice and tight and all problems are now gone :-) The car fires up perfectly from a cold start and on a 50 mile test drive no issues. This also fixed an issue I had with one of the front indicators which Ihad to re-wire froma side indicator to pass my last MOT! Note to self - tighten up earth points extra tight in future.

jameschong
10th June 2012, 11:38 PM
Well, solved this one today... Turned out that the earth point at the front cross member in the engine bay had a slightly loose bolt. I removed it, sanded all corrosion off the contacts, refitted the bolt nice and tight and all problems are now gone :-) The car fires up perfectly from a cold start and on a 50 mile test drive no issues. This also fixed an issue I had with one of the front indicators which Ihad to re-wire froma side indicator to pass my last MOT! Note to self - tighten up earth points extra tight in future.

Curiously, how did you come to check the earth point for this symptom?

Angus
16th June 2012, 01:05 AM
Curiously, how did you come to check the earth point for this symptom?

Basically because I had checked everything else and this was the last thing I could try! I knew something was amiss with an earth somewhere as like I said my passenger side indicator wiring was not working previously. Anyway, very pleased it worked.

Krizzie
17th June 2012, 08:42 AM
Wow, that enginebay looks cool! So clean and nicely colored! :cool:

The only thing that I would change is the piping between the Turbo and the IC, if you clock the turbo downwards, you don't have to make that weird bend. Besides you stay clear from the exhaust heat.

Edit:

Lol, those pics are over 2 yeard old! :lol: Silly me..;oops:

Angus
17th June 2012, 09:48 AM
Wow, that enginebay looks cool! So clean and nicely colored! :cool:

The only thing that I would change is the piping between the Turbo and the IC, if you clock the turbo downwards, you don't have to make that weird bend. Besides you stay clear from the exhaust heat.

Edit:

Lol, those pics are over 2 yeard old! :lol: Silly me..;oops:
Hi Krizzie. The problem with the Mitsubishi turbo is that clocking is not an option otherwise I would have done it. The Garrett on the other hand is simple to clock and avoids that weird bend! To be honest the car goes like a rocket and I doubt the bend in the pipe makes any major difference, but I agree that from an aesthetic point of view it would look a lot better.

Krizzie
17th June 2012, 10:07 AM
Oh, didn't know that the Mitsu doesn't have that option..

Might have to change my plans for the FMIC then. :P

Angus
18th July 2014, 07:29 PM
2014 - still going strong, did a lot over the last 2 years, changed the gearbox for a newer better one and fitted type 8 primary gearing at the same time. Got a lovely tubular manifold as well. Here's some of the most recent pics:


http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k536/angusmsmith/1990%20Saab%20900%20T16S%20Convertible/CIMG1315.jpg

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k536/angusmsmith/1990%20Saab%20900%20T16S%20Convertible/CIMG1396.jpg

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k536/angusmsmith/1990%20Saab%20900%20T16S%20Convertible/CIMG1399.jpg

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k536/angusmsmith/1990%20Saab%20900%20T16S%20Convertible/CIMG3587.jpg

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k536/angusmsmith/1990%20Saab%20900%20T16S%20Convertible/IMG_0391.jpg

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k536/angusmsmith/1990%20Saab%20900%20T16S%20Convertible/IMG_0394.jpg

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k536/angusmsmith/1990%20Saab%20900%20T16S%20Convertible/IMG_1101.jpg

James Bond
19th July 2014, 07:08 AM
Looks wonderful!

How did you find the no. 8 primaries?

Angus
19th July 2014, 08:07 AM
Looks wonderful!

How did you find the no. 8 primaries?

Thank you very much! To be honest about the type 8's.... They are not all they are cracked up to be really. I didn't expect them to be too different to type 6's or 7's, BUT in reality they are much much longer geared. Revs are considerably lower and the top speed is way more than with type 6/7, this should probably mean that fuel economy is improved too if the car is cruised at a steady speed, BUT they make the car feel sluggish at low revs and the need to change down is required much more often. I'm not saying I hate them or that I will remove them from the car, but I think the best suited gearing to any Saab really has to be type 7 - it is the best all rounder and apart from giving slightly shorter gear changes compared to the 8's I will be sticking with 7's in the future. Type 6 are a hoot - they are so short that acceleration is instant in almost any gear, but as we know they run out of steam too quickly, give poor economy and 1st and 2nd are pretty much useless.
In my latest project here: I am going with type 7's http://www.uksaabs.co.uk/UKS/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=141535