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dead car help.

2K views 44 replies 7 participants last post by  Giomeister 
#1 ·
I ran my car this morning. It turned over ran fine and then i started it again and it died while i was turning a corner and did not start.

The car essentially died. I had a jump, nothing, strong on the starter. The read out was at 13.00, no issues there, and it cranks great starter wise.

Does not turn over. I checked the fuses, checked my DI cartridge, no smell or over excessive heat. Otherwise nothing to indicate anything else.

Had to have it pushed, any ideas?
 
#2 ·
Check the fuel pump. Jumper fuse 14 to fuse 22 without the key in ignition and listen for the fuel pump whine in the trunk area. If the fuel pump is good, check the DI next. There is no good way to check the DI except to replace with a known good one.
 
#3 ·
i am not sure how to do this jump of the fuses.

I have checked everthing over. I have replaced the DI Cartridge and still no luck.
 
#5 ·
What is the ignition lock switch? at the fear of sounding stupid.

I have just posted it for sale too. I am too far into this and had alot of work done i feel it is time.
 
#6 ·
If you can get the starter running I seriously doubt it is the ignition switch. To jumper the two fuses. Cut a piece of 16 gage solid wire. Strip the ends. Insert one end into fuse 14 and the other end into fuse 22. Listen in the trunk area for a motor to turn. The fuel pump should turn when you jumper the fuses.
 
#7 ·
I am a bit confused about this. I have pulled 14 (fuel pump) and fuse 22 which is hazard lights. Taken one wire and plugged in to both fuses.

Nothing. Do i need 2 wires, one to both the negative and one to the positive of each of the fuses.

please explain this, i do have the 16 guage wire.
 
#8 ·
Do not remove the fuses. There is contact point on top of the fuse. You can stick a hardwire into both fuses. The idea is to get current from the battery (fuse 22, the hazard light, which is always hot) to the fuel pump bypassing the ignition.
 
#10 ·
This is the EZ way....but it assumes that this circuit is good... More difficult is the introduction of current directly from the battery( or a battery) to the fuel pump(FP) positive terminal(all else is by-passed, except the FP ground)...
The FP either runs or no..
Look at the fuse as a bare wire, which is easy to tap into, at least, the older ones were easy...
Giomeister, if you know you have current to the pump, and the connections are good, the the pump is not good.
 
#12 ·
You won't fry everything out. All you are doing is getting the 12v from fuse 22 to jump to fuse 14 to get 12v to the fuel pump motor without engaging the starting circuit.

Find fuse 22 on your fuse panel then stick some wire into the small openings on the part of the fuse that faces you. Then put the other end of the wire on fuse 14. It does not matter which side of the fuse the wire is connected to.

After you connect the jumper wire and you go back to where the fuel pump is and cannot hear it running the pump motor is dead.

With the jumper still connected, try pounding hard on the floor near the fuel pump or on the bottom of the tank with your hand a few times. If the pump attempts to run after this the brushes on the motor have bad spots on them. If it still won't run at all the motor is dead.
 
#13 ·
no response. I fear it is dead.'

How easy is it to replace this whole unit. I know quasi had something on it. I fear their is no longer.
 
#14 ·
It's not very hard to replace the fuel pump in a 9000...it's a pretty easy job. Be thankful you do not have to drop the tank to do it.

The hardest part of the job is getting the wonderful fuel pump locking ring off.

You can make a tool that will go across the molded splines in the ring to catch between 2 sets of the splines, or get a certain size of PVC pipe and cut notches in it to engage all of the splines.

Then the next delicate part is getting the check valves out of the pump body without snapping them off. On these it's best to spray some WD-40 around them where the go into the pump housing. Then take a pair of pliers to lightly grip them and slowly and gently twist and pull straight up on them until they come out.

Once the locking ring and check valves, and wiring connector are removed the whole pump assembly can be pulled up. It won't just come straight up and out as you have to twist and turn the pump housing to get the tank level arm to come out as well.

Then you just do the opposite when installing the new pump unit. Feed the level arm in first and then twist and turn the pump assembly until it drops into the tank.

Once the whole assembly is back in the tank place the O-ring on top of the pump and put the locking ring back in place and tighten it down most of the way. But before you get it tightened down all the way make sure that the hash mark on the fuel tank is lined up exactly with the hash mark on top of the pump body. Then with the aid of a helper, tighten the ring down while they hold the pump unit from moving off the mark. Turn that ring until you cannot move it any more.

If you don't get that lined up right, your fuel level sender will be off.

Then gently press the check valves back into the new pump...make sure you put them in the correct hole..one goes to the high pressure line and the other goes to the return line. Then reconnect the wiring harness and make sure the check valve retainer is put back in place.

It's also best to have a new fuel pump O-ring on hand as the old one might not be any good or it will swell up making it hard to get back onto the top of the pump where it mounts. The same goes for the locking ring if there are a bunch of busted splines on it...or you had to literally bust it out to get the pump out.
 
#16 ·
It's not that difficult.....you just can't rip into it.....

If you lubricate the check valves before pulling them out, and then only pull straight up slowly and gently while moving them from left to right slightly to work them out you will be fine...then lubricate them again when putting them back into the new pump assembly.

When the fuel pump died in my 1992 9000 S last summer I did the whole thing myself without breaking the check valves off or damaging the lines, or fuel pump locking ring.

I even had a completely full tank of gas to deal with....didn't even spill any of it in the car when I removed the pump. My pump gave it up at the gas station right after I filled up my car. The car ran when I drove up to the pump, shut it off to fill it up and it would not start after that..it just cranked over. Switched the DI out with the good spare and got the same result.

But I did have to get another fuel pump O-ring, as the one I took off swelled up and would not fit properly around the pump....it did shrink back down to the right size eventually, but of course it was after I put the new one in.
 
#17 ·
spend 300 dollars on a fuel pump or sell it. I have dumped alot of cash so far.

Not sure. I am moving soon to Arizona, can always get a better one there.
 
#22 ·
Jeff325 replied.

Yes, that's what you will need with the pump locking ring and pump O-ring.....get the 6mm 3 barb one IIRC

thank you Jeff
 
#23 ·
Let me explain my not wanting to do this. My first car, before the 9000 was a 1989 Saab 900, i bought it for 300 dollars and the first thing i had it do was spray fuel all on the inside of the car. My first exposure to saab was replacing the O rings, the steel ones with rubber on the insides.

Needless to say it scares me to have to do anything with a Saab fuel pump. Not to mention i had the hoses snap and had to improvise.
 
#24 ·
Ok so i am ready to buy this part. I need the retainer clip, o ring and the 6mm 3 barbed motor. How is the easiest way to remove the retainer ring?

I know it is counter clock wise right.
 
#25 ·
There is a metal tool available that will go across the ring and engage two sets of the splines in the ring.

You can jury rig some wood to make a tool to fit between two sets of splines on the ring.

You can make a tool from a 4" PCV pipe fitting. You cut slots in the fitting corresponding to the splines on the locking ring. Then you drill a hole on the top of it, so you can insert a socket extension through it.

Then you turn it counter clockwise to remove the locking ring.

If all else fails....take the longest and largest flat bladed screwdriver you have and position it at the right angle to engage a spline at the base of the ring. Then pound on the screwdriver with a hammer....if done right it can be removed without breaking off any splines..it just depends on how tightened down the ring is and you have to get the screwdriver lined up just right to apply force to move the ring counter clockwise.
 
#26 ·
I heard about using a blow dryer to heat the rubber fuel lines up. What is the easiest way to do this without breaking them?

I am assuming i have to take them off.
 
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