I've actually seen your post several times about replacing the belt; but from my understanding it seemed like a way to compress the tensioner, but not keep it compressed, making it either rather tricky, or a two person job.
I have never seen a belt tensioner compression tool available for sale. I am very "unhandy" and I was able to make my own that works fine. Instructions from the Quasimotors site below.
"Two 1/4" bolts secured by nuts in a piece of angle-iron about 5 1/2" long by 1" wide. The bolt hole spacing is nominally 4 1/2", but I recommend drilling the holes somewhat oversize (3/8"?) and using washers so you can adjust the spacing between the bolts as needed for your car. Bar material should be angle-iron (steel, actually), not flat steel (my 1/8" mild steel bar bent badly and often!). ¼" bolts 1" to 1 ½" long should do."
I am 5-9, 172 lbs. Using a 18" long 1/2" drive breaker bar with a 19 mm socket I never replace the belt with anyone helping. It is strictly a one person job.
I bought a car with drive belts off, I put my drive belt on on my own with a 1/2 bar and socket. It was not easy, but not hard, if you understand my meaning.
I did my water pump recently and had no problem using a 1/2" breaker bar. It has a feeling not unlike a compound bow. Once you compress it completely it's not that hard to hold it while get the belt on. I do however recommend mechanics gloves as a slip off the nut at this point is likely to knacker your knuckles. Fortunately, I was wearing mine
I second that statement about the busted knuckles;oops: I was NOT wearing gloves.... Drip, drip drip.....
Sooner or later I am going to make a tool that uses a screw, similar to the action of a valve spring compressor that will both hold and compress the tensioner. Just haven't drawn it up yet. Should be fun.
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