Modifying with T5suite [Archive] - SaabCentral Forums

: Modifying with T5suite


coldskiesfullofblue
16-03-09, 01:30 PM
I have looked and found all the componets I need to interface the ecu with my pc. However, there are multiple of each (connector, power supply). Can you reccomend the best ones to use?
Especially the power supply, I'm a but confused on which is best to buy.

yoursolace
16-03-09, 07:57 PM
I'm with you!! I just bought some stuff for all this a few days ago, haven't received any of it yet though so I cant help you all that much yet. I bought the BDM from here http://shop.gtronica.com/product_info.php?products_id=444 as it was relatively cheap and people were recomending it on the forum, it looks simple enough!

As for the power supply I just searched Ebay for a thinkpad 16v and ordered one of these http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=370171218979
(http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=370171218979)
I hope they work but it seems like some people have trouble with certain products, well, If you get your stuff before me and start playing around let me know how you make out! (I will do the same once I get mine!)

Oh, and buy an ECU (or ECM whatever it is) from a 1996 or forward saab, that way it has the 20mhz chip in it (if you reflash it to the 20mhz chip that you currently have in your saab) Yay for having a 9-3 but still having the T5!

coldskiesfullofblue
16-03-09, 11:15 PM
Where did you get your ECU? We only have Saab-free junkyards in our area and I need a spare ECU to work with as well. The great thing is my fiances parents both worked in semiconductor plants for years so i get to overhaul the memory chips and get good quality soldering! I just have to buy the parts. I really lucked out on that one.

Darren900
17-03-09, 09:34 AM
Especially the power supply, I'm a but confused on which is best to buy.
A spare ATX supply sitting on the shelf is great for this:

http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-a-Computer-ATX-Power-Supply-to-a-Lab-Power-Supply

or you can use an old car battery, a car battery charger, or about 12 million other things that supply 12VDC.

yoursolace
17-03-09, 04:47 PM
I also ordered my ECU right off of ebay, 35 bucks! Not too shabby! Make sure you dont buy the airbag computer or the transmission computer as I saw some people on the forums made this mistake! Woops

But yeah, I would just search around, just make sure you don't buy a 5.2 or a 7.7 but Im sure you know better than that!

And sweet deal on the mem hookup! I hear it can go bad after a while and resoddering in new stuff (with my skill level) would be nearly impossible! I have shakey hands so sodering tons of little pins isnt exactly my forte!

captain crunk
19-03-09, 03:11 AM
A spare ATX supply sitting on the shelf is great for this:

http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-a-Computer-ATX-Power-Supply-to-a-Lab-Power-Supply

or you can use an old car battery, a car battery charger, or about 12 million other things that supply 12VDC.

According to the directions you actually need to get 16 volts to the ECU, not just 12. I noticed with the modified PSU you can get +17. Think that would be okay to use? I know the voltage regulators in the ECU itself are rated pretty high, but I'd like a second opinion before I hook up tons of voltage.

I wouldn't be sure about hooking the whole ECU to -12 as well, I thought that was a pretty weak fuse on PSUs. Verified, my PSU says max on -12 is .5amps. I kinda doubt a T5 draws that much power, especially at 17 volts.

Here is a link with the 16V power supply requirement: http://forum.ecuproject.com/viewtopic.php?f=67&t=1407
Ah, on page 160 of the T5 PDF it clearly states: "The T5 ECU must be powered up and +16 volt should be applied to pinnumber 65." So you DO need a 16 volt power supply.
It says 300mA is required, so while -12 is close it should work.

Here, from the T5 PDF (http://trionic.mobixs.eu/Trionic%205.pdf) (http://trionic.mobixs.eu/Trionic%205.pdf%29:):"Nice to know is that the regulator can supply its +5 volt output when the input ranges from +6V upto +28V" so 17 volts should be A-OK.

Does anyone else agree with me that hooking ground to -12V on the PSU and pin 65 to +5V on the ECU should provide +17V and should work w/o overloading the PSU?

Darren900
19-03-09, 10:03 AM
The trionic module, be design, is very forgiving with its input voltage. Think about it: if you're cranking the car, the battery voltage may drop to about 10-11V but the trionic still needs to run (obviously). I would not run the voltage over 15 volts.

coldskiesfullofblue
20-03-09, 01:47 AM
Every ECU I find is at least 100USD. Where are the 35USD ones?
Before I hook my ECU up to anything I will make sure of that voltage. I don't wanna trash my ECU.

SaabNGT
20-03-09, 05:33 AM
I'm using 15V 1A adapter.So any power option which will give constant power of 14-16V will do the job.
D.

wannaB
20-03-09, 03:46 PM
Someone needs to come up with a hardware package instead of finding all the parts and trying to figure out how to put them together for us less computer savvy peoples.:roll:

captain crunk
20-03-09, 09:54 PM
^ Agree with you there, when your first starting to get into T5suite it is very hard to figure out what to do, how to do it, or even what to buy.

I just ordered the BDM programmer from the site listed above... rather expensive. Came to just under 50bux for the whole deal (shipping was almost more than the item, and then there was some 5 euro tax... no wonder the US broke away :D)

I can't wait to buy myself an extra T5 and start tuning, 300HP here I come! I'll make a nice HOWTO once I figure out the last few steps ;)

yoursolace
20-03-09, 11:02 PM
Im still waiting on my stuff, I have everything except the BDM... I hope the site pulls through!! I got some email that I cant read, I hope it dosent say "SORRY WE ARE NOT GIVING YOU ANYTHING BUT WE WILL KEEP YOUR STUPID AMERICAN MONEY"

wait. no, I just used a translator, its portuguese apparently, and now that its in perfect english I still am not sure if it means they shipped it or not. Hmmm...

Gtronica ------------------------------------------------- ----- Update Number: **** Invoice Details: http://shop.gtronica.com/account_history_info.php?order_id=****Request in: Friday March 13, 2009 You can find the submission by clicking the link below. http://shop.gtronica.com/account_history_info.php?order_id=****Your request has been updated to the next state. New state: Envoy and Pre-paid Please reply to this email if you have any questions.

Envoy means shipped? I hope so!

Kip
24-03-09, 06:58 AM
I've done it to a few ecu's already. If you need some help just give a shout.

I use a 15v laptop powersupply.

And this BDM:

http://cgi.ebay.de/BDM-Interface-f-Nokia-DBOX1-Saab-Trionic-Motorola-HC_W0QQitemZ360141034141QQcmdZViewItemQQptZDE_Elek tronik_Computer_TV_Video_Elektronik_TV_Receiver?ha sh=item360141034141&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1229%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C 240%3A1318

It's the most popular one and works well.

captain crunk
05-04-09, 06:14 PM
Sorry to necromance this thread, but the BDM programmer from the above vendor arrived today; I got everything hooked up with a 16V IBM power supply and when I plug it in all that happens is the MCU status flashes very quickly from STOPPED to RUNNING and back.

I tried a computer 12V PSU with the same result, and a 12V power brick. I have no idea what's going on and why it's acting this way... I guess I'll try to get DOS on my PC and see if that helps at all.

Anyone know why I keep getting RUNNING than STOPPED again and again?

captain crunk
08-04-09, 02:22 AM
Figured I'd reply in case anyone else stumbles upon this thread via search if they need help:

I got it to work, so this BDM interface works fine; I used Free DOS and was able to pull a BIN and flash a new one without an issue!

Kip
08-04-09, 04:30 AM
Figured I'd reply in case anyone else stumbles upon this thread via search if they need help:

I got it to work, so this BDM interface works fine; I used Free DOS and was able to pull a BIN and flash a new one without an issue!

Good to hear, make sure you dump the bin back after flashing to check if it's ok. (no checksum error)