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Car won't start

728 views 10 replies 4 participants last post by  computek 
#1 ·
9000 CSE
I used the car today and everything was fine. 30 miles round trip. Then I went to the shops, the car was switched off for 10 minutes while I did the shopping. I can't get the thing started now. The battery turns the engine fine. I changed the DI pack. There is fuel in the car. There are no 'check engine' messages or flashing of the orange mpg lights (all units in the bar light up). I can't remember if I should be hearing the fuel pump when the ignition is switched on. Oh, and the car wouldn't start while being towed in 3rd gear.
Thanks in advance.
 
#3 ·
Cheers, Marrk. Ok, back to basics. How do I check if there is a spark? And how do I know if fuel is getting to the cylinders. I have to add that I removed one of the spark plugs, it was dry and white. Would I be correct in thinking fuel starvation is the problem?
 
#4 ·
I've got the same car with the same problem.

Crank your car for a few seconds, then turn the key off, run out to the hood and listen for the DI's burnoff. It's a quiet buzzing that lasts for about 5 seconds. If you don't hear it, either the DI isn't getting enough voltage or it's dead.

The DI is powered by the "Injection System" relay. You could eliminate it from the list of potential problems by bridging the connection with wire.

The computer systems in the car do not like low voltage, so you could easily have enough power to turn the engine, but the car will still be braindead. Yes, it's a stupid design. Note the battery voltage while cranking. If it drops much below 10v, you've got a dud. If your car starts reliably while being jumped from another running car, swap the battery for a new one.
 
#5 ·
Thanks SS. I did hear a buzz after switching off. But it lasted for ages which I thought was strange. I'm guessing 3 minutes easily. It sounded more like from the ECU, does the ECU buzz? I'll listen again with both DIs tomorrow. I'm sure the voltage was 10.4V but will check again tomorrow. I never thought to jump start the car so I'll try that too.
 
#6 ·
The APC solenoid mounted near the radiator tends to buzz also, but the DI's buzzing is louder and lasts for about 5 seconds.

Try and listen for buzzing after the following key sequences....

1. On...........Off

2. On......Start..........Off

If you hear it after the first but not after the second, voltage starvation is likely. In other words, the starter pulls the voltage so low it puts your ECU/DI in a stupor and nothing happens.
 
#7 ·
I got to investigate the car today. Tried both DI packs and both buzz for 5 seconds after switching off. I checked the spark plugs after cranking a couple of times for perhaps 10 seconds each time. The spark plugs were dry and there was no smell of fuel. I even tried to look for a spark by loading a DI with plugs and then touching on against the cylinder head. I didn't see any sparks across the plug gap but I'm not sure if this is even a legitimate test to perform.
The cars battery measures 12.35V across the terminals. When cranked the voltage meter in the dashboard display can drop to 7.7V. I tried to jump start the car with my dads car which was running, but still the car refused to start. I'm charjing the battery tonight.
What do you guys think the problem is?
How can I test for a spark?
How can I check the fuel pump is working?
 
#8 ·
When cranked the voltage meter in the dashboard display can drop to 7.7V.
Stick a fork in your battery, because it's done.

Use a jumper cable to ground your spark plugs while testing the DI, they won't fire otherwise. Then check for spark while cranking. Do you get burnoff after switching from cranking to off or just when switching from on to off?
 
#9 ·
Thanks for the quick reply SS. There is definately a buzz from the DI after cranking then switching to off. I'll need to check again to here if it buzzes from off-on-off.

When checking for sparks, do I need to put all four plugs into the DI or just one and ground it with a jump lead?
 
#10 ·
When checking for sparks, do I need to put all four plugs into the DI or just one and ground it with a jump lead?
Some people claim it's bad for the DI to use only one plug, but I did it without issue. Just make sure you ground it with a jumper cable. Have someone crank while you watch.

While you're at it, try shorting the fuel pump relay to get the pump running constantly.
 
#11 ·
Easy test, put some gasoline in a old style pump oil can. removed the intake hose by the throttle body. Hook up jumper cables to the battery to eliminate low voltage possibility. Open throttle wide and squirt about 4-5 squirts down into the throttle body. Prop throttle open about the width of an ice cream stick. Put oil can away from the car. Crank the car and see if it coughs, spits or makes any other attempt at starting. That should tell you if its fuel or electrical without fail. If it tries to start then the DI, Crank sensor, ECU, and engine mechanical (VALVE) timing are most likely ok. You would then have to look at the fuel filter, the fuel relay, the fuel pump fuse(s), the pressure relief valve, and finally the fuel pump. Check for bad fuel as well. You can pull the fuel filter and shake out what is left in it into a coffee can and look for "bubbles" in the bottom of the can, if you do you could have water in the fuel which will give you fits. As a quick test of the fuel pump check the fuses and the relay by the way solidsnake said and with a friend helping you, you crack loose one of the lines to the fuel filter under the car, cover with a rag and have them tap the starter for a second. With a working pump and good electrical you should soak a rag in a split second with a loose (not very) fuel line. Hope this helps. I recently went through this, mine was the battery, the pos battery cable, the grounds and the DI.
 
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