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clutch sticking to the floor

7K views 17 replies 6 participants last post by  computek 
#1 ·
Hello all,
I have a 93 9000 cs non turbo. About a week ago the clutch stuck to the floor, added hydrolic fluid and worked for fine this week. Then again last night it did the samething. I found if i play with the brake fluid cap and clutch it will come back. But a minute later is gone again. Does anyone have any ideas what this could be or what i should check out?

Thanks,
John
 
#3 ·
When was the last time all the brake fluid was replaced? I did that and disassembled, cleaned and greased the bushings for the clutch pedal and the problem is 99% gone. Once in a great while if I raise the pedal slow it will stop slightly before all the way up. Does yours stick ALL the way down. Also does the clutch work? The other poster may be right but I'd start with the fluid change and bleed and go from there. Hope this helps..... John
 
#4 ·
There is no fluid leaking any where on the car. Yes it gets stuck all the way to the floor. The clutch does work when its not to the floor. I checked all the fluids when i bought the car a few weeks ago and all looked good. I had topped of the fluid and all was fine. The car had been sitting but runs fine other than the clutch. I will start with bleeding the lines and replacing the fluid. Thanks for your help.
 
#5 ·
Its the master, the slave or a leak. Agree with computek, start with bleeding, then check for leaks at the connections, then replace the master and if that doesn't work its the slave, which is very expensive since you have to remove the entire tranny and once you have it off, you may as well do the entire clutch, resurface flywheel and replace the rear main seal.


Keep your fingers crossed.
 
#6 ·
Bleed all the lines and replaced the fluid. Clutch works when pumped but goes right back to the floor if slight pressure is applied to it. When I drive the car and keep the pressure up it works enough to make it out of the driveway. Does anyone have any ideas of if it is the slave or master cylinder or anything else? I just really want it to work. Bought it got new tires and a windshield, drove it a few times now this happened.:( I just really want to be able to drive and enjoy it. Any help would be greatly appriacated.
 
#8 ·
jclem said:
Bleed all the lines and replaced the fluid. Clutch works when pumped but goes right back to the floor if slight pressure is applied to it. When I drive the car and keep the pressure up it works enough to make it out of the driveway. Does anyone have any ideas of if it is the slave or master cylinder or anything else? I just really want it to work. Bought it got new tires and a windshield, drove it a few times now this happened.:( I just really want to be able to drive and enjoy it. Any help would be greatly appriacated.
Be absolutely sure that you have properly bled the clutch. It's really tricky on these cars, to do it right, you have to at least use a pressure bleeder. Just pumping the clutch and opening the bleeder valve, like you do on a brake, will not bleed the clutch.
 
#9 ·
same thing happened to me and it turned out to be my master cylinder. I took it apart and what happens is the seal in the master pushes the fluid throughout the system and once that seal deteriorates it most likely slits. a good demontrations is taking 2 cups put a ruberband around one then puting that cup into the other one, the band will act as a seal but it'll role when the cup is sliding up againt the other. Thats what is happening inside the master cylinder. when I took mine out I also took it apart to see what was happening. It's kind of a pain to take it off though. and to make sure it is you master cylinder pump the clutch about 10 times and see if you find fluid on the floor under your transmission
 
#10 ·
I did use a power bleeder to bleed the clutch so I at least I know I did it some what right. There is no fluid leaking under the car, so I guess this means it is the slave cylinder. Thanks for all your help and hopefully the slave cylinder will be replaced with out to much trouble. I have another car to use during the repairs at least.
 
#11 ·
With no fluid under the car I would believe it is the master not the slave. Those do leak when the go bad. The master will pass fluid around the seal and it will sometimes work almost normally. Like I said, try a rebuild kit first. Much cheaper than a new one. Unless of course you don't want to "f" with it.:cheesy:
 
#14 ·
jclem said:
Hello again,
where can I buy the rebuild kit for the master cylinder?
Thanks
John

Oreilly Auto parts has it cheap :






O'REILLY/BRAKEBEST - Clutch Master Cylinder Kit Item No: CHK351256
This is for my 90 9000 2.3 5spd. Cost a whole $7.99 plus what ever shipping unless you get it a a store. There may be others. A new one from Eeuroparts cost +- 130.00

Be sure to load up on rags to catch fluid and be sure to lower the level in the reservoir to under the line before you undo the line at the cyl. Otherwise you'll need alot of rags:cheesy:

I now have a similar issue except mine is the slave. I have clear fluid leaking under the car. Not much but its from the slave cyl. The trans fluid on mine is black tinted due to the moly added.

The master is pretty simple. Afer removal, Push the plunger down a little and hold it with wire. Take the circlip out and then pull the plunger out. Check the bore for pits with a bright light. if it looks ok then take a cyl hone (pretty cheap at the auto parts store) put some brake fluid in the cyl (not much) and use your drill to lightly hone up and down a few times and then clean with brake parts cleaner and reinspect. If it looks nice put some fluid down in it to lube it, lube the new parts that go on the plunger and reassemble then install and bleed. If not then hone again until it does. An under an hour task if your good, 3 if your slow and have a few cold ones. For under 20 bucks its worth it to try. Myself, I gotta pull the dang tranny;oops:

Hope this helps..... John
 
#15 ·
yea i just finshed changing a bad slave.
honestly its not that hard at all (ive done more then a few tranny jobs for different reasons but the 9000 is as easy as is gets).
the drop away sub frame make SO much room its great.
the only thing i recommend is if ur doing it with jacks (which i did) then use 2.
use a siscor jack which has the slot in it and place that between where the tranny mount and the tranny case is (theres a thin metal line between the 2 which the slot of the sissor jack holds on to great) and the other u put where the tab is under the tranny.
between the 2 jacks u have to hold almost no weight making things a lot easier (also i do the job with just 2 people but a third to watch to make sure everything is lined up and to help pull things out of the way would be a great thing)
joe
 
#16 ·
Thanks Joe, I'll remember that. I have to wait till I can afford the slave unit. I'll rebuild the old unit to have as a spare if it's not too bad. Gonna run me about 3 bills with the clutch. May as well do it all while in there. Kinda like doing the head gasket and the chains at the same time.
 
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