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Timing Cover Gasket..

1K views 11 replies 4 participants last post by  rawill 
#1 ·
Hey guys, I searched around the forums looking for the answer, but never did come up with anything.

I have an oil leak coming down the passenger side (what i will refer to as the front) of the engine. I degreased and cleaned everything and found that it is coming from underneath the timing cover(s?). I looked some stuff up online to try and find what may be causing it, but as much as I came up with was either the gasket behind the covers, or the seal on the crank.

My question is: Is the crank seal pressed on? I don't want to get into the middle of it to find out I can't go any further. I can probably grab some pictures of it Saturday after I get off work, if anyone needs clarification of the location.

Also, I'd assume someone has had this problem before, so does anyone know how time consuming it is to pull off the two covers behind the main pulley and change their gaskets?

Oh, by the way, this is a '92 9000.
 
#2 ·
I have just put a new crank seal in my griffin. It is an easy job, once you have taken crank pulley off. Wheel off, inner guard liners off, drive belt off, crank pulley off and you are looking at the oil pump which has the crank seal in it. The timing cover is a machined surface that only has sealant to seal it up.
 
#3 ·
The picture is for the rear main seal. The the idea is the same for the front seal. The front seal is on the oil pump cover which you can remove to do it on the bench. If you do not have a huge pair of snap ring pliers you have to do the seal in car. In that case you need a big socket with an OD that matches the OD of the seal (or a little smaller).

 
#4 ·
Wow thanks guys, seems like an easier job than I was expecting. But, since there is just sealant on the timing cover, I assume the leak would be coming from the main seal then. Thanks for the quick replies, it's much appreciated.

What do you guys recommend to seal the timing covers for reinstallation? I have RTV out the ****, and some high-temp sealant (cant remember the name).
 
#6 ·
Yes I would assume it is the seal that is leaking. But, if you are not entirely sure, if you start by doing what I said above. Remove the R/F wheel, take off the inner guard liners and clean everything up, without taking off the drive belt. Then run it a while and check again. And while it is not easy to take the sump off you can, I have just put mine back on, it was taken off by the guy I bought the car from. It was in parts when I bought it. head off/timing/balance chains off, sump off. I have never worked on Saabs before except to replace the thermostat and a drive belt on a 96 NG900 S. 2.3 NA. Haynes is a help but so is the link to www.thesaabsite.com/900new/Saab-900-balance-chain-setup.html I know it says for a 900 but the 2.3 engines are the same engines.
 
#7 ·
Hmm, I think i may be talking about something else. The leak is from high on the front of the engine, just above the main pulley. I'm scratching my head trying to figure out why I would need to pull the sump to pull the pulley and the plate off behind it. Then again, I did only sleep 2 hours in the past 48hrs, and my brain may not be processing where the sump actually is.

What i'm refering to as the "timing cover" may be wrong as well. Ill grab some pictures sometime this week, if my exams don't make me kill myself first, and double check to make sure I am talking about the right thing.
 
#8 ·
Mmm, yes. There is no need to pull the sump off to do the crankseal. We might be talkign at cross purposes. The Oil pump cover holds the Crankseal. The oil pump cover bolts on to the Timing chain cover. Maybe the oil pump cover has a little leak above the Crank pulley. If this is so then it should be a relatively easy fix. Fingers crossed.
Yes a picture would be worth a thousand words.
 
#9 ·
I have been having another look at my car and you have me thinking.

If you are looking from the top of the car, over the R/F mudguard/fender in the centre you are looking down at the tensioner pulley. If the leak is above that the only place I can see that oil could come from is the cam cover which has 2 black rubber plugs as part of the gasket. Is this where your leaks are coming from. I hope so. This would be a real easy one to fix.
 
#10 ·
jackforester said:
Hmm, I think i may be talking about something else. The leak is from high on the front of the engine, just above the main pulley. I'm scratching my head trying to figure out why I would need to pull the sump to pull the pulley and the plate off behind it. Then again, I did only sleep 2 hours in the past 48hrs, and my brain may not be processing where the sump actually is.
The oil pan or oil sump is on the bottom of the B234 engine for the 9000, and the front crankshaft seal is located behind the crankshaft pulley. This is on the passenger side of the 9000 and is where the serpentine belt is that curves around the various pulleys like a snake. While you can do this job with the engine in the car, I usually do this at the same time as other jobs with the engine out of the car. To know what is causing the oil leak, you need to follow what was already said in this post. You need to degrease that side of the engine, then run the engine and identify the location of the leak.

To remove the crankshaft pulley, you need to remove the serpentine belt. This requires a tool to keep the serpentine belt tensioner held. With the belt removed, you just need to unbolt the large crankshaft bolt. I think it is 19mm or 24mm? Then, remove the pulley and you should see the orange color (usually) crankshaft seal. You pry it out. With the engine in the car, this can be a challenge! There is not a lot of space to work with. Then, you use engine oil to lube the sides of it, and install it by hand or use a flat piece of wood and a mallet (again, not enough room with the engine in the car). Then, put on pulley and torque the bolt.

With the engine in the car, you work from the passenger side wheel well.

You should also reseal the oil pump cover and oil pump seal, as they may be leaking oil too. There are several 10mm bolts that you need to remove as well as a few 12mm bolts to remove the oil pump cover, then you can replace the oil pump o-ring and use 518 or 510 sealant. Tighten bolts to specified torque (probably 11-14 ft-lbs).

Be sure to clean the bolts too, and apply thread lock to the crankshaft pulley bolt. Renew worn bolts. Also clean the side of the engine and threads.
 
#11 ·
When I first noticed the oil leak, I pulled the passenger wheel and wheel well cover and degreased the engine. It seems like I have enough room to work with that cover pulled to get to it, but some stuff may be a little tight.

If you're looking at the front of the motor, the leak comes from the cover behind the crank pulley towards the top of the cover. I won't know if its just the cover leaking, or the crank seal until I get it pulled off. But I would assume it is the crank seal.

Thanks for all of the help, it is very much appreciated.
 
#12 ·
OK then. It seems you have diagnosed it right correctly. That will not be a drama to fix. All you need is he crank seal, another oil pump cover seal and some loctitie or similar sealant. Check out a Haynes for the tool you need to make to hold the serpentine belt tensioner while you take it off to get there.
 
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