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9000 traditional stalling problem

3K views 11 replies 5 participants last post by  KristjanS9K 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi! Stalling gave me a headache when I had my first MY86 9000i CC and also now when I have a MY90 9000T CC with DI/APC. How the hell can this just NOT WORK. I have cleaned the TB, IAC. Changed ALL vacuumhoses, including under the dash and it still stalls when I press the clutch and take my foot off the throttle. Today I tried a something. I took the IAC off, manually turned to about 1000 RPM, then put IAC back. No fcuking effect whatsoever. How important is that little absorber (UFO kinda thingy)? I know, it does'nt let TB close immediately, it slowly closes it. It seems to work and then again, it seems not to work. When I touch the throttle and immediately let it loose again, then it stalls. When I hold it for a longer time, then it works. That shows the Absorber does'nt work very good. Sometimes rpm just stays at about 2000 rpm and stays there for a VERY long time, usually pressing throttle helps. I blame the Absorber for that. Ok IAC seems to be there just for cold starts, it let's more air in. But why has the TB still a manual setup option, a little screw.

Does anyone know the exact intructions how to set up the throttle positioning and also the TPS positioning.

I have to by meself a new Absorber, maybe an adjustable KONI LOL:lol: This is just grazy, I have'nt noticed this stalling on any other car mark.

btw, my car details: B202, MAF, LH2.4(.1 maybe), DI/APC, MY90. I'm still happy.

Does it matter which way the TPS is mounted?:confused:
EDIT: No it does not. Ma brain still works (at least something works)
 
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#2 ·
Have you tried your hooter valve? If you use your turbo and when you shift it stalls, it is most likely that. I am having a similar problem, however I have replaced everything you have, except even more. I have replaced Vacuum hoses, AIC, cleaned out the throttle body, replace hooter valve, replaced hoses, and I still can't figure it out. I am running out of options here and I can't figure it out. I also have a rough idle but I can't figure out why. I am starting to believe it's my Direct Ignition Cassette, but I don't know. I haven't located a new one to test. It's a long fight.
 
#3 ·
Vacuum leaks.


The cruise control has a vacuum hose that attaches to a twin switch at the brake and clutch pedals. This cuts the cruise if you brake or shift (press either pedal). Check for continuity of those lines.

Also, failure to properly secure the oil filler/dipstick cap can lead to vacuum leaks as can a crack in the dopstick tube itself or a failed O ring at the base of the tube where it enters the sump.

Your symptoms are of a vacuum leak, you just haven't found it yet.
 
#4 · (Edited)
I have a metal hooter valve. Thats out of the question. I believe there are many Saabers with the same problem. This is just nuts, in every corner or whatever, I have to use engine braking.

I read other similar threads here. Most of them are of the newer 9000 with MAP. There have been problems with CPS. How can you test it?
What about the DI cassette, mine is from the year 1996 :lol: Still seems working very good.

I'll try to call someone tomorrow, some Saab service has to know what the problem is.
When nothing helps, then I'm gonna manually turn the rpm to 2500. Then it MUST work.

EDIT: My cruise is momentarily "cut out". No switches attached, vacuums are sealed with small M6 bolts :D The switches were in a very bad condition, cruise did'nt work. I'll check the O ring and the stick.

Ok, since I have very much time now (economic crisis) I'll take everything under inspection (vacuum stuff). Best place to hang out is the garage.

Can I just make every vacuum hose blind at the intake manifold. CBV, vapor canister (black box, behind right front wing), PCV, FPR, interior vacuum hoses. These all can be blinded when in idle mode. Have to try this, maybe it's the easiest way to find something. Manifold and TB seals should be very good.
 
#5 ·
ok when u say hooter valve to u mean blow off valve for the turbo?
the valve which releases pressure when u let off the gas?
if u have a mass airflow sensor and ur blow off valve isnt recirculated (the opening where it realeases air is sapose to connect to the tube on the inlet of the turbo) when u let off the throttle it will blow out all the air to the atmosphere and the mass airflow sensor just told the ecu theres X amount of air going into the engine so add X amount of fuel and all that air just dissappears then ur car will go super rich and cause it to stall.
an easy way to fix that is just to recirculat ur blow off valve and the problem will be gone. if u like the way it sounds and u have a manual car then u can leave it open but u will have to learn not to push in the clutch after u let off the gas so the engine can clear out all the extra fuel and start running normal agian or when u push in the clutch to give it a little gas to keep it running.
hope that wasnt to confusing and i hope it helps
joe
 
#6 ·
:D When justin.graeff mentioned hooter valve then I started searching what that means, I did'nt excpect someone would call a CBV or BOV a third way. I have a bypass. My car stalls even if I'm not driving. Pressing throttle once or twice and then letting go, rpm drop very low and sometimes stalls.
 
#7 ·
My bypass valve is all hooked in right, but I still stall. I usually only stall after boosting in a somewhat moderate amount. Those signs are of failing bypass valve, but I replaced it with a brand new one and am getting the same effect. I am sure I will never figure it out.
 
#8 ·
Comon dude, don't say that. I'll see what I can find, since my car is'nt driveable anyways. I have lot's and lot's of time, I'll let you know.

The only problem I see right now is not getting into the garage. Uphill, snow & ice, summer tires, right behind is a steel mesh fence. Not a very good place to stop when slipping backwards. But for now, I'll try to get inside. Wish me luck LMAO.
 
#9 ·
well as far as the stalling goes like i said if ur blow off valve isnt recirculated on a mass airflow sensored car then that would be a problem.
but if its connected correctly and its not bad then id say its ur idle control valve, tps, or a vacuum leak.
i dont know how the intake is on the turbo cars or all the years but my intake has 3 pieces the upper manifold which is just slides into these little rubber coupling and is held in place by the manifold being bolted to the lower 1. and second 1 which goes from the upper to the lower which is connected with little rubber coupling with clamps. and the lower 1 with the injectors which bolts to the motor.
if the coupling are bad or the upper manifold is loose maybe the intake it moving and cause a vaccum leak.
i know thats a bit of a strech but i cant really think of much else that would cause a car to stall like that. even it ur timing was off because of a bad crank sensor ud still idle but it would be real rough.
i dont know if im right but check those things out and let me know if any of them help
joe
 
#10 · (Edited)
I had a long text already and then technical problems, everything was lost OMG, here it goes again:

Engine idleing, I took those plastic thingys out, one by one where the vacuum hoses are attached to. Took one out and covered the hole with my finger. No changes in RPM or sound. Vacuum hoses and attachements are ok. Every hose or bolt or wire is attached by myself, so these things are definetly out of the question. Next one was watching the IAC at work. I took it off and blinded the TB and manifold holes. Then adjusted the RPM to about 700 - 800. Then I adjusted the TPS. And then I was watching the IAC and NOTHING. Stayd in the same place as before, no movement at all. It worked on a battery charger when I tested it a few weeks back. It seems to be just old. A little advice I got here http://www.thesaabsite.com/Baseidlesadjgoldaic.htm I have to get me another IAC for testing, a new one would be best. Then I'll see what happens.

This multi sectioned intake manifold is on turbo cars also. I have the one in one piece.

Another place where it would be possible to air coming in is the TB itself, at the ends of the butterfly axis. Thats a place where normally people don't look.

Hmmm, I took the IAC to parts. There is no place where the valve could get stuck. It's a two wire IAC. Inside is just a coil and inside is the moving part on ballbearings. Theres no way, it could be faulty. Measured the resistance, it's 8.4 Ohms. When in idle I measured the voltage on the connector, reads 13... volts. No change in voltage when pressing throttle. Also checked the TPS. Measured those pins also. Inside there are two micro switches. Both work flawlessly. What is the IAC then supposed to do? How is it supposed to behave.

Ok, now this gave me something to think about. I definetly will check this out.
http://www.saabscene.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=201778&st=0&p=905705&#entry905705 My IAC has a 2-3 mm GAP already:eek:
 
#12 · (Edited)
No, it's attached properly.

Ok, the valve itself works, BUT on the wrong direction. It holds itself closed.

Heres a picture of it taken apart: http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/9100/p2240011medium.jpg Now what i managed to get wrong (At least I think so) is the dark roundy thingy on the right side. That made the polarity wrong and the valve moved backwards. For now I have managed to get it open to the right side. I'm going to test it on the car now.

E: It seems to work now. Voltage on idle is about 1.55 volts. When pressing throttle, it jumps to 2.2 volts. I also adjusted the IAC valve screw when idleing. Adjusted it to minimum RPM. The fine tuning is still not done, I need to adjust TPS and Butterfly valve again. Now I need a new Absorber also, I don't believe in that old one.

When your looking for the idleing problem, the valve position is a good place to start. Older IAC-s have three wires and no spring. If someone is interested, then maybe I can take one apart. If anyone else succeeded solving the problem also, then I would be glad to know:D
 
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