Hello,

I'm a newbie on this forum and I'm living in France.
I'm created this thread for my new project.

The project is based on a c900 T16 s-line (Spg in France) form 1987.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SYc2KZSh4FI/AAAAAAAAFgc/6tFSHbbMYYM/s800/P1090037.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SYc2R_87RfI/AAAAAAAAFgs/BiiwNaIMIZE/s800/P1090040.JPG

It or she, I don't known what you choose, has 245 000 km.

I have already work on it, I changed :
- Front brake caliper
- Front brake hose
- Front brake disk and pad
- Front lower bushing

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SYc2n3571JI/AAAAAAAAFiE/znj2Lt3pEUk/s800/P1090125.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SYc2ka29jTI/AAAAAAAAFh0/oRHuR_vTdBA/s800/P1090118.JPG

This braking system doesn't gave me satisfaction ...

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SYc2iU-2SHI/AAAAAAAAFhU/VHBEVS5Bq0U/s800/P1090117.JPG

the asymmetric brake disk due to a dead caliper.

The negative points
- The timing chain need to be change
- The syncro Ring 2nd/3rd is very hard sometime, sometime not !! :x

Currently my car looks like this
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SYXuvjYZ2hI/AAAAAAAAFYg/-s7QSwoZxNQ/s800/p1100270.jpgThe goal



Rebuild the motor
- new timing kit
- new gaskets & seal
- oil pump
- engine mount
- belts and dumper
- New bearing

Rebuild the gearbox
- New bearing
- New syncro Ring 2nd/3rd
- maybe other stuff ... I don't now.

Cool tuning
- Install Megasquirt with Edis to managed fuel system and ignition.
- Adapt for superethanol (E85)

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SYXu9vdFQmI/AAAAAAAAFaI/6eY4eHh2Iiw/s800/p1100283.jpg

Tu es où en France, Slapps? J'habite à Poitiers maintenant, mais j'ai des amis partout, si possible j'aimerais te visiter! J'ai un SAAB 900 aussi (non-turbo), mais ça reste aux Etats-Unis.

Cool project, the car looks very nice!

Mon francais est terrible, par-ce-que nous etudierh la forme Quebecois.


Votre voiture est incroyable. J'aime la colouer et l'interieur est toute ranger.

I attempted.

Clean interior, and beautiful car in a great colour. Looking forward to reading updates from this thread:D

Tu es où en France, Slapps? J'habite à Poitiers maintenant, mais j'ai des amis partout, si possible j'aimerais te visiter! J'ai un SAAB 900 aussi (non-turbo), mais ça reste aux Etats-Unis.

I'm living at the north of Paris, in Picardie.
You're an american living in France ?

Mon francais est terrible, par-ce-que nous etudions la forme Quebecoise.


Votre voiture est incroyable. J'aime la couleur et l'intérieur est toute ranger/ propre ?.

I attempted.

Clean interior, and beautiful car in a great colour. Looking forward to reading updates from this thread:D

Thank you ;) :lol:

TheRedBaron (member.php?u=20848) => Thank's

Some news,

I have became to disassemble the motor.

As you can see, all bushes need to be replace

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SYXvJhcFNbI/AAAAAAAAFbs/wYZsBqtiHfI/s800/p1100295.jpg
It's the same for DA pump

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SYXvQOIVxWI/AAAAAAAAFck/pXsVolW-cHk/s800/p1100302.jpg
The motor was rebuilt by saab, when it was 140 000km ... I don't find the year of the bloc as mark on the red block. Somebody know where I can find the year ?
I don't know how to read the blue inscription....

The top of the dirty cylinder head
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SYXvRfpGiLI/AAAAAAAAFcs/7jkMDON1ksc/s800/p1100303.jpg

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SYXvTvxEr5I/AAAAAAAAFc8/b06LPfkBVY4/s800/p1100305.jpg

And the bottom with his nearly dead joint
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SYXvU3tx-dI/AAAAAAAAFdE/gX0hS92pD1g/s800/p1100306.jpg
I will need the motor's number to order the new joint....

And the other side
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SYXvbrVYrXI/AAAAAAAAFdw/Ft3_1ZsqMO8/s800/p1100311.jpg

You're an american living in France ?

Bah, oui! Et je veux acheter un 2cv pour exporter aux Etats-Unis si possible. En effet, je fais un an d'études à l'Université de Poitiers pour améliorer mon français. Ça marche très bien--j'apprends le français du Molière, et l'argot--et rien entre les deux! :lol:

But it's probably better for me to talk in English on the forums so that everybody else can understand--and not think I'm showing off :lol:

Bah, oui! Et je veux acheter un 2cv pour exporter aux Etats-Unis si possible. En effet, je fais un an d'études à l'Université de Poitiers pour améliorer mon français. Ça marche très bien--j'apprends le français du Molière, et l'argot--et rien entre les deux! :lol:

But it's probably better for me to talk in English on the forums so that everybody else can understand--and not think I'm showing off :lol:

Ayoye un Deux Cheveaux pourquoi ca... pouquoi pas une vraie voiture comme une CX ou SM ou meme une Renault 4 voyons :lol:

Une voiture c'est toujours elle sauf quand c'est un char :lol:

hello,

I come to you for advice!

I separated the engine block of the gearbox, I stripped.
Only a flywheel and the crankshaft pulley .

However the screw of the pulley crankshaft is blocked :/
- I tried with the key to shock
- Heating
- With an extension of a meter
- Hammer

Have you somme advices ?

Thanks !

I have gotten crankshaft pulleys off before. I used a 2-meter extension! Are you having problems with holding the crankshaft steady while you turn? One way I've done it is with a crowbar stuck in one of the flywheel teeth. It is a nicer job to do when the engine is in the car, so you have something to push against. I have heard of people wrapping straps around the flywheel also. Basically, I would tell you to lock the flywheel as best you can, and then get the longest extension you can find, and pull on it with all your weight. Good luck!

À 900t,
Tu me récommends une Quatrelle--ça me fait rire. Cette voiture a le maniement d'un char :lol: Et quand-même, si je voulais une grosse voiture, j'aurais acheté une Simca Mille :cheesy:
C'est vrai que j'aime bien la SM, mais ça consomme comme un cochon, et quand-même c'est moins cher d'en acheter un aux États-Unis. Même pour le DS, je crois. Quand j'ai plus d'argent...
Qu'en avez-vous Canadiens, comme Citroëns? C'est peut-être mieux d'acheter un 2cv là-bas (là-haut?? :roll: :p )

No my problem is holding the naked motor block.

The flywheel is blocked with a little crowbar, but when i force the whole motor block move ...
I know i should remove the crank pulley when the motor was in the car .... ;oops:


Ps : pourquoi la 4L a le maniment d'un char ??? ma maman en avait une :p

I have heard of people making a long metal bar with two holes drilled in it, and bolting it across the crankshaft where the flywheel normally goes, using two flywheel mounting bolts. Then they just get another person, and the two people turn against each other from opposite ends until the crank pulley bolt comes loose.

Ahhhh la la...j'ai insulté ta mère... :cry: La Quatrelle est une bonne voiture (pour moi, mieux qu'aucune voiture américaine de son époque, et surtout mieux que la coccinelle allemande), mais à mon avis, ça imite le 2cv--elle a la même orientation (arrière plus haut qu'avant), la même suspension (barres de torsion), la même construction (chassis+cadre en tubes d'acier), et la même levier aux vitesses! Et c'est vrai que l'escargot manoeuvre mieux que la R4--j'ai des amis avec les deux, et c'est manifeste dans n'importe-quel rond-point.

Au secours!....les deuchistes...vont m'indoctriner...complètement.....

Hello Slapps.

You need to drill....


http://www.monsterup.com/upload/1234776939.jpg (http://www.monsterup.com/)

http://www.monsterup.com/upload/1234776997.jpg (http://www.monsterup.com/)

Probabally just need an impact gun to break bolt loose..

Au secours!....les deuchistes...vont m'indoctriner...complètement.....

It wasn't me. I didn't do it. Don't blame me for lowering the tone in this thread...
(And _definitely_ don't blame me for mentioning the R4. Horrible things)

Bienvenue, slapps. Where in Picardie? I don't think I've seen a single c900 - and very few newer Saabs - on French plates on the many trips over there.

À 900t,
Tu me récommends une Quatrelle--ça me fait rire. Cette voiture a le maniement d'un char :lol: Et quand-même, si je voulais une grosse voiture, j'aurais acheté une Simca Mille ::
C'est vrai que j'aime bien la SM, mais ça consomme comme un cochon, et quand-même c'est moins cher d'en acheter un aux États-Unis. Même pour le DS, je crois. Quand j'ai plus d'argent...
Qu'en avez-vous Canadiens, comme Citroëns? C'est peut-être mieux d'acheter un 2cv là-bas (là-haut?? :: :)

Hihi, c'est drole que tu mentionnes "char", au Quebec on dit toujours "char" pour dire voiture, like saying "car" in English, slang term :p

Tsé notre version de cardomain c'est monchar.com :lol:

Les Froncé ils disaient que la SM boit comme un trou mais quand meme ca ne doit pas etre aussi pire... maybe like a V8 Mustang who cares. But try to get parts for that ****ing thing, some fancy European road cars of the era had American V8 engines (eg Jensen, Facel) but what did Citroen use, a friggin MASERATI engine :lol:

I have seen two SM in Montreal on the roads in as many years :D A couple of CX. Very rare in other words.

But still 2CV is like a sardines can, even the roof works the same way :lol: :lol:

Les Froncé ils disaient que la SM boit comme un trou mais quand meme ca ne doit pas etre aussi pire... maybe like a V8 Mustang who cares. But try to get parts for that ****ing thing, some fancy European road cars of the era had American V8 engines (eg Jensen, Facel) but what did Citroen use, a friggin MASERATI engine :lol:

Apart from Citroen owning Maserati at the time, the French road taxes heavily penalised large capacity engines - so a 2.7/3.0 v6 was a LOT cheaper to run than a 6.0 v8, whilst the lower weight and similar power meant that the SM was just as quick as something like a Facel. And they sound _gorgeous_...

Apart from Citroen owning Maserati at the time, the French road taxes heavily penalised large capacity engines - so a 2.7/3.0 v6 was a LOT cheaper to run than a 6.0 v8, whilst the lower weight and similar power meant that the SM was just as quick as something like a Facel. And they sound _gorgeous_...

Maybe when it was still under warranty, but try to fix that stupid engine today or even in 1980 :lol: Whereas for a Facel you can buy a brand new engine with more power and better economy that comes to your door in a crate, for maybe 3000$ maximum... Am not saying anything bad about SM, I love the SM. But if I could get a Facel II with a four-speeder and 383 OH it would be a hard decision :lol:

Maybe when it was still under warranty, but try to fix that stupid engine today

No problem whatsoever.

Sure, it'll cost, but NOTHING about an SM is cheap - a mate had a minor front-ender in his last year. Bumper/lights/wing/bonnet. Nothing structural, nothing mechanical, just panel damage.

The bill was £12,000. For parts alone.

Maybe when it was still under warranty, but try to fix that stupid engine today or even in 1980 :lol:

Yea, the biggest problem was the combination of Maserati engine and a Citroën. :D
The local Citroën dealer mechanic couldn't coop with the complex Maserati V6 with its three twin carburator :o. For a simple Maserati mechanic the v6 was a piece of cake.:cool:
While, on the other hand, the complex hydro-pneumatic suspension and hydraulic system of the SM would cause a headache and ulser to the Maserati chief mechanic. For the Citroën mechanic the hydraulics was daily business.
Citroën nor Maserati dealer, non of them could handle this beautifull car well.:cool:

While, on the other hand, the complex hydro-pneumatic suspension and hydraulic system of the SM would cause a headache and ulser to the Maserati chief mechanic. For the Citroën mechanic the hydraulics was daily business.

For Maserati mechanics of the era, too - the Khamsin, Bora & Quattroporte of the time used the hydraulics heavily - the QP was basically a rebodied SM, whilst the Khamsin & Bora used them for stuff like the pop-up lights, power windows and seat adjustment as well as brakes - but not suspension.

There aren't many classic 900's over here but I have one, my project is here

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119367

I have heard of people making a long metal bar with two holes drilled in it, and bolting it across the crankshaft where the flywheel normally goes, using two flywheel mounting bolts. Then they just get another person, and the two people turn against each other from opposite ends until the crank pulley bolt comes loose.

Ahhhh la la...j'ai insulté ta mère... :cry: La Quatrelle est une bonne voiture (pour moi, mieux qu'aucune voiture américaine de son époque, et surtout mieux que la coccinelle allemande), mais à mon avis, ça imite le 2cv--elle a la même orientation (arrière plus haut qu'avant), la même suspension (barres de torsion), la même construction (chassis+cadre en tubes d'acier), et la même levier aux vitesses! Et c'est vrai que l'escargot manoeuvre mieux que la R4--j'ai des amis avec les deux, et c'est manifeste dans n'importe-quel rond-point.

Au secours!....les deuchistes...vont m'indoctriner...complètement.....

Yes, this week, i tried your solution; a one meter steel bar bolted on the flywheel and on this other side, an other one meter steel bar.

but we twisted one ;oops:

Try again ! :evil:

It wasn't me. I didn't do it. Don't blame me for lowering the tone in this thread...
(And _definitely_ don't blame me for mentioning the R4. Horrible things)

Bienvenue, slapps. Where in Picardie? I don't think I've seen a single c900 - and very few newer Saabs - on French plates on the many trips over there.

lol,
I leaving close to Chantilly !

There aren't many classic 900's over here but I have one, my project is here

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119367

Ok thank you, I'll read your post ;)

Probabally just need an impact gun to break bolt loose..

I have already try with mine ... but nothing move ! :evil:

Hello Slapps.

You need to drill....


http://www.monsterup.com/upload/1234776939.jpg (http://www.monsterup.com/)

http://www.monsterup.com/upload/1234776997.jpg (http://www.monsterup.com/)

I think it's my last solution ... :o

Yes, this week, i tried your solution; a one meter steel bar bolted on the flywheel and on this other side, an other one meter steel bar.

but we twisted one ;oops:

Try again ! :evil:
Wow! I am impressed. You can still try heating up the bolt with a torch. Sometimes that works...
If not, then drill away!

Here is a thread about someone's efforts to remove a very recalcitrant crank pulley bolt.

http://saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94715&highlight=pulley+bolt

thank's for the link.

But I don't have the hardware :/ And i don't know where I could rent it in France

I know the engines heavy and difficult to move, but can't you take it to your local garage and get them to undo the crankshaft pulley nut for you. They should have a compressor and a heavy duty impact gun.

Wow! I am impressed. You can still try heating up the bolt with a torch. Sometimes that works...
If not, then drill away!

Here is a thread about someone's efforts to remove a very recalcitrant crank pulley bolt.

http://saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94715&highlight=pulley+bolt

Thank you for the thread !

I succeed !!! I removed the bolt, the dead bolt :evil:

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SalGNMyx3AI/AAAAAAAAFwE/AKlAnT6gdt8/s800/P1100322.JPG

After cutting the "washer" ... i could remove it only with my fingers .... was crazy !!!


I opened my bloc motor and i saw a disaster :o.


Follow me....

Look nice
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SalA7zVIWhI/AAAAAAAAFwU/7E5iyUCn9pg/s800/P1100328.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SalA8pzplLI/AAAAAAAAFwc/jlrPSWySqOQ/s800/P1100329.JPG

But, you can see the dead parts ....

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SalBBoWqLfI/AAAAAAAAFxo/UdwTm_-LusE/s400/P1100339.JPG
Scratches and dirt embedded in

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SalA_rboyxI/AAAAAAAAFxI/SMTz1QGjpjI/s400/P1100335.JPG
Scratches on the crankshaft

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SalA-C2TRrI/AAAAAAAAFww/kXhQbEShWQY/s400/P1100332.JPG
A non-symmetrical wear

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SalBEuQS-eI/AAAAAAAAFyc/NCz5XMfu46g/s400/P1100345.JPG
A piston dropped because of poor guidance, certainly due to the cod dead bearing.

This disaster come from the Crank Gear attacked by the timing chain ...

The cost to repair the bloc is too high in France .... I'm looking for a clean used block !

Thats unlucky, how many kilometres does your engine have on it?
My big end and main bearings were worn more badly than yours but the crankshaft was ok, so I just changed the bearings, fortunately my pistons were fine. I got all the parts from the UK "parts for saabs" or e**parts.
To get a good secondhand motor here in France may prove to be difficult!
Good luck

To get a good secondhand motor here in France may prove to be difficult!

<shrug>
Slapps lives near to the channel ports, and the Euro is strong against the pound...

Come and get one!

Very true alot of things are cheaper in the UK, i'm looking at getting a 3" exhaust and its 100+ euro's less than if I get it here, its rediculous

The motor has only 245 000km .... and it was rebuilt by saab around 120 000km.
I bought the car "for 25 000 km ago"
So the block motor should be in a good health ....

http://forum.saabsportclub.com/saab/PresentationdevosSaab/900-classique/restauration-turbo-1992-sujet_6292_1.htm
My Turbo S that rebuilt last year, you could see a "good use" on a block with 280 000 km

In france many professionals are dreaming about saab used an news price :lol:

In france many professionals are dreaming about saab used an news price :lol:

Your correct the prices here are now astronomical

Very true alot of things are cheaper in the UK, i'm looking at getting a 3" exhaust and its 100+ euro's less than if I get it here, its rediculous

It's worse than that - it's as cheap for us to buy wine in the UK as in France... Now _that_ is ridiculous!

It's worse than that - it's as cheap for us to buy wine in the UK as in France... Now _that_ is ridiculous!

What wine are you drinking, surely French wine is dearer at the moment, or is it that the shops have dropped their profit margins. Over here the wine is as cheap as ever.

The motor has only 245 000km .... and it was rebuilt by saab around 120 000km.
I bought the car "for 25 000 km ago"
So the block motor should be in a good health ....

http://forum.saabsportclub.com/saab/PresentationdevosSaab/900-classique/restauration-turbo-1992-sujet_6292_1.htm
My Turbo S that rebuilt last year, you could see a "good use" on a block with 280 000 km


Sounds like the engine was screwed from long ago.

That is bizzare.
What the engine making any funny noises?

Sounds like the engine was screwed from long ago.

That is bizzare.
What the engine making any funny noises?

not really,
But i didn't experience with broken lower motor ....

Now i remember a little noise, i thought it was the gearbox .... :cry:

This week-end, friends gave me a good crankshaft, without scratches.

I couldn't find a complete motor.
I'm going to do a patchwork, my used bloc with a good crankshaft and news pistons.
What do you think, Advertisements ?

I need somebody to check the measures of my bloc, crankshaft.

On the bloc under the starter, there is a little plate with writing :
Recondy. by SAAB-Scania
906026 code DBB

And on the head of my dead pistons, there is :
0.5 1999
95/32
231 1088
Saab

Do you know what does it means ?

On the bloc under the starter, there is a little plate with writing :
Recondy. by SAAB-Scania
906026 code DBB

And on the head of my dead pistons, there is :
0.5 1999
95/32
231 1088
Saab

Do you know what does it means ?

It's a factory reconditioned engine, by the sound of it - so it's already been rebuilt once. That'll mean that it's quite possibly on oversize bores, and the crank (yeh, OK, toast...) already reground.

Yep,
I think the size of my piston are 90.50mm...I didn't find any information on the block.

For my crankshaft doesn't mater because it's died :cry:

Some goods newwwwwwwws :cheesy:

A sympathy friend give me a good crankshaft

And an other sympathy friend used his company's tools to check :
- the cylinder bore (confirm the 90.50mm)
- The maximum variation in straightness (crankshaft)
- Maximum ovality of journals (crankshaft)

Everything respect the dimensions !

I can keep it ! yeahhh !

I bought this 4 stuffs :cool:

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/Se9RbcYhK6I/AAAAAAAAF50/RI79gVD7DMo/s800/fdec_1.JPG

next step in 3 weeks ... :confused:

Some news,

The state of my car :
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/ShHmVEmKaGI/AAAAAAAAF8M/LXC2Q0mUYts/s400/P1100527.JPG

In the compartment engine, i began to remove everything. I search every rust places and treat its.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/ShHmVui-a9I/AAAAAAAAF8Q/-BSZAv2EP3c/s400/P1100531.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/ShHmV2bjU_I/AAAAAAAAF8U/K6vxJzBbOrA/s400/P1100532.JPG
And my work place :

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/ShHmWaqHh-I/AAAAAAAAF8Y/Cc7AWIx-gwI/s400/P1100535.JPG

Concerning the fuel management, I change my mind and i'll install a Trionic 5.5.
I need only the trigger whell.
Here some parts
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/ShHmTwz5UMI/AAAAAAAAF8A/2oUSYl9aKvw/s400/P1100517.JPG

Tonight in order to save place, i found a great stuff :cool: In my old toys' boxes

........................
..................
............
........
.....
...
..
.

Look at this :
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/ShHmWwtcjxI/AAAAAAAAF8c/xDyozoHtHd0/s400/P1100536.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/ShHmXD_vLvI/AAAAAAAAF8g/9PgjFvBlbYw/s400/P1100537.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/ShHmX301gYI/AAAAAAAAF8o/4aKpxayvfgU/s400/P1100540.JPG

When i was a child, i was a turbo driver :o

Some news,
Concerning the fuel management, I change my mind and i'll install a Trionic 5.5.
I need only the trigger whell.
Here some parts
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/ShHmTwz5UMI/AAAAAAAAF8A/2oUSYl9aKvw/s400/P1100517.JPG

Where did you manage to find these parts in France and how much did ou pay for them?

I bought my parts in England... France isn't good for SAAB parts.

I bought my parts in England... France isn't good for SAAB parts.

Dis moi, j'ai habité ici depuis sept ans maintenant et je trouve les pieces voiture cher en plus dis "Saab" et tout suite "non mr ", n'est pas?

Dis moi, j'ai habité ici depuis sept ans maintenant et je trouve les pieces voiture cher en plus dis "Saab" et tout suite "non mr ", n'est pas?

Yes in France, most of people think old saab cars 900 and 9000 (Before we don't know) are still expensive and some professional surf on this wave ....

Concerning the independant saab garages, most of them se us like a turkey
For exemple changing the clutch + slave and master cylinder => 900 euros / 1200 $

Yes in France, most of people think old saab cars 900 and 9000 (Before we don't know) are still expensive and some professional surf on this wave ....

Concerning the independant saab garages, most of them se us like a turkey
For exemple changing the clutch + slave and master cylinder => 900 euros / 1200 $

I know a genuine Saab clutch is about 200 euros and the Saab time to fit it is about 1.5 hours, so say 100 euros, total prehaps 300 plus TVA max 360 not 900.

Some news !!!

I found a very big point of rust ;oops: in the right part of the motor compartment.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/ShnH5Pxo-eI/AAAAAAAAF_w/Zb8PbxTLwd4/s800/P1100560.JPG

:o

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/ShnH-7iZtmI/AAAAAAAAF_0/A_0ty8NlV-c/s800/P1100564.JPG

:o I need to cut the steel sheet of the road side to see, clean and remove rust ;oops:

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/ShnIFtg0SpI/AAAAAAAAF_4/hkx1eg0-nEk/s800/P1100568.JPG

:o

The final cleaning

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/ShnIR3czulI/AAAAAAAAGAA/mR9WqTN2xGA/s800/P1100579.JPG>

Now I need to remove all ill metal ... the cutting part ! :p

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/ShnIsiKrRNI/AAAAAAAAGAY/7ZHYIp9SFkY/s800/P1100587.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/ShnJFIUQNmI/AAAAAAAAGAo/sB_bXbk1Bh0/s800/P1100596.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/ShnJKfiqTFI/AAAAAAAAGAs/EHeu6DahXH4/s800/P1100597.JPG

Second step is ok ! I keep only healt steel !

Now I need new healt steel !

I use this preform sheet steal :

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/ShnI3qkHctI/AAAAAAAAGAg/eX16x-GXa0E/s800/P1100589.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/ShnIx5KZ8BI/AAAAAAAAGAc/aTu8OOJD3ZA/s800/P1100588.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/ShnJixnr5nI/AAAAAAAAGA8/ixeNhQZLHm8/s800/P1100600.JPG

A right cutting sheet

And now the last fight :cheesy:

The welding part !

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/ShnJ1o-fzxI/AAAAAAAAGBA/r_d5il--TVo/s800/P1100604.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/ShnKJSMImPI/AAAAAAAAGBI/1Lg7mnpAJhQ/s800/P1100606.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/Siwml29_dnI/AAAAAAAAGD0/r0Jpr3sSCN4/s800/p1100625.jpg

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SiwmmIAXg6I/AAAAAAAAGD4/i3UYqU-YdUM/s800/p1100627.jpg

Rust is done ! ;)

Great work :)

Where did the pre-formed steel come from?

Thank you very much.

I'm proud to save this car. I wasn't choice, repair or cut.
I was little bit afraid to work on the chassis. It was the first time I welded on car.
I spend lot of time trying to find the right parameters on steel sheets.

Concerning the pre-formed steel, it was made by a Danish brand, I'll give you the name.
I think it the same brand which make front wing, we could see on the scantech catalog.

I bought this part from skanimport (German supplier) : http://www.skanimport.de/skanimport/opencms/html/en/saab/classic_parts.html?id=16

Saab 900 -93

http://www.skanimport.de/skanimport/opencms/media/loader?id=852&type=pic&showPreviewPic=true (http://www.skanimport.de/skanimport/opencms/media/viewbig.jsp?id=852&type=0) http://www.skanimport.de/skanimport/export/system/galleries/pics/system/1_pix_trans.gif http://www.skanimport.de/skanimport/export/system/galleries/pics/system/1_pix_trans.gif http://www.skanimport.de/skanimport/export/system/galleries/pics/system/1_pix_trans.gif http://www.skanimport.de/skanimport/export/system/galleries/pics/system/1_pix_trans.gif Initial offer: € 38,75

This sheet metal for repairing the side member is not offered as an original spare part.
With frequent repairs, this alternative saves money and time while offering a good professional solution.

Purchase order n°: 07.2077 left / 07.2078 right
Reference number: 652077-1 left / 652077-2 right

For: Saab 900 -93

For further information, please contact us.
- VAT included (within Germany)
Car Marker’s Names and Numbers are used for reference purposes only.

wow 40 euro

in USA there is a company that makes something similar but it costs USD 200!

wow 40 euro

in USA there is a company that makes something similar but it costs USD 200!

Do you have contact information?

Thanks....

And now the last fight :cheesy:

The welding part !

<baffled>
Location: France.
Repair: Weld.

Does Not Compute.

There's not a pop-rivet in sight!

Can you do me a favour, please? Can you explain the benefits of welding things up properly to all of your countrymen who repair 2cvs, please?

That is a very good price :)

Do you have contact information?

Thanks....

http://www.autorust.com/contact.html

<baffled>
Location: France.
Repair: Weld.

Does Not Compute.

There's not a pop-rivet in sight!

Can you do me a favour, please? Can you explain the benefits of welding things up properly to all of your countrymen who repair 2cvs, please?

Tell me if i don't correctly understand ...

You seems say french men who repair 2cv use pop-rivet ? :o in place of welding
.....
....
...
..
.

I believe you :lol:.

You forgot fiber + resin ...

I see on my french saab board, most of people don't repair or maintain their car by thereself... So french car dealer looooooooooooooooooooove french people.
With a friend we surf on english, US and sweden boards to find new interesting informations.

For example in France we have only 2 C900 with a trionic ... my friend and a professionnal. And i don't know megasquirt c900... It's sad !


For this pre-form sheet, you should ask a quotation they speak english ... I don't understand german.


Is-there some particular difficulties to rebuilt a steering rack ?

Tell me if i don't correctly understand ...

You seems say french men who repair 2cv use pop-rivet ? :o in place of welding
.....
....
...
..
.

I believe you :lol:.

You forgot fiber + resin ...

I see on my french saab board, most of people don't repair or maintain their car by thereself... So french car dealer looooooooooooooooooooove french people.
With a friend we surf on english, US and sweden boards to find new interesting informations.

For example in France we have only 2 C900 with a trionic ... my friend and a professionnal. And i don't know megasquirt c900... It's sad !


For this pre-form sheet, you should ask a quotation they speak english ... I don't understand german.


Is-there some particular difficulties to rebuilt a steering rack ?


Doing this stuff in France is really difficult, but I have a megasquirt 900 turbo in France, but i'm Btitish and get alot of my parts from the UK, it's easier and cheaper. I met the RBM performance guy at Cadwell Park in the UK, he seems really clued up and generally a nice guy, but his parts are expensive.
With the steering rack i've changed the seals in the pinion no problem, but for the rest je ne sais pas, désolé.

Tell me if i don't correctly understand ...

You seems say french men who repair 2cv use pop-rivet ? :o in place of welding
.....
....
...
..
.

I believe you :lol:.

You forgot fiber + resin ...

No, I've never seen such a professional repair as fibre & resin...

Since I collect http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190311228500 in a few weeks, though, we'll see what differences of opinion remain between Monsieur le CT & Mr. MOT....

No, I've never seen such a professional repair as fibre & resin...

Since I collect http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190311228500 in a few weeks, though, we'll see what differences of opinion remain between Monsieur le CT & Mr. MOT....

le chassis est HS et le controle technique refusé

I don't know what is HS... I would like to say "hostie de sacrament!" :lol: un criss de bazou :D

paint looks nice tho

le chassis est HS et le controle technique refusé

I don't know what is HS... I would like to say "hostie de sacrament!" :lol: un criss de bazou :D

paint looks nice tho

<g> Hors de Service. Knackered... Rotten... Bendy... It's far from unusual, although more common in '80s 2cvs.

Incidentally, I learnt a new Swedish word at the weekend, and I love it...

A van is a skåpbil - a "cupboard car"...

Keep up the good work.
Nice welding!!!!!

Hey some news concerning the block motor !

I couldn't easily find green motor paint ... so I use Red

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/Smdr0AFY1-I/AAAAAAAAGjI/jsQma8uGqoE/s800/P1100631.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/Smdr2TQMd8I/AAAAAAAAGjM/WZ1_WOfVlHY/s800/P1100633.JPG
It has a better face :cool:


Now the new Mahle pistons mount on the old rods

The old pistons need to be removed :

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/Smdr4PGZ3vI/AAAAAAAAGjQ/Aa_vGt75vW8/s800/P1100635.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/Smdr5_ela2I/AAAAAAAAGjU/cuJyE714TFk/s800/P1100637.JPG

The old config
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/Smdr7ssmRdI/AAAAAAAAGjY/0Mb2PCDGO9A/s800/P1100638.JPG

The new config
New piston
New Circlip
New gudgeon pin
Clean rod
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/Smdr996xX0I/AAAAAAAAGjc/XjS2Lf4viuo/s800/P1100642.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/Smdr_1i55NI/AAAAAAAAGjg/56xEXK3T6gM/s800/P1100646.JPG

The new config
New piston
New circle ? (I don't know the english word)
New ?? (I don't know the english word)
Clean rod

Circlip & gudgeon pin.

The new configuration :cool:

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SmdsCZ12XNI/AAAAAAAAGjk/tcBvX23nemA/s800/P1100648.JPG


http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SmdsG6nqeHI/AAAAAAAAGjs/lQsPL6-xPQg/s800/P1100652.JPG


Now before, adding the carters I'm cleaning the screw thread
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/Smd2DqGvhCI/AAAAAAAAGkM/Zpp95rFdVSA/s800/P1100654.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/Smd2FEKgmoI/AAAAAAAAGkQ/tUxJhfmsw3M/s800/P1100655.JPG

Circlip & gudgeon pin.
Thanks ;)

Beautiful looking engine. Red was used on some engines anyways. Green is not as nice. Funny, my 1987 has a green engine.

Hey,
I'm not lucky with this B202 .... :evil: all my exhaust valves is died ...
After this, my block will have not problems :cheesy:

Pictures :

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/Su8v6jDD5DI/AAAAAAAAGtw/ceGjZy61fhE/s400/P1100870.JPG
According to saab litterature, it is impossible to machine exhaust valves due to coated layer
And they don't have sodium, only B201

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/Su8v9i1ZzlI/AAAAAAAAGuA/3-TDPN2zCa4/s400/P1100874.JPG
So I bought new exhaust valves
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/Su8v52zTBaI/AAAAAAAAGts/MWkbNaBqyWo/s400/P1100871.JPG
The producer is FEDERAL MOGULE

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/Su8v7SbTTSI/AAAAAAAAGt0/H1KKQae81B8/s400/P1100869.JPG
For the refs

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/Su8v-dBnQhI/AAAAAAAAGuE/KeCCjE2S3Sw/s400/P1100875.JPG
And my tools to clean valves and ???(sorry i can't find english term)

The head is cleaned and ready, go to the test and "clean the surface gasket"

And to change my mind, i prepare a used and cracked exhaust manifold to be weld :cheesy:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/Su8v_kllLAI/AAAAAAAAGuM/S5qis1YCPus/s400/P1100876.JPG

I forget,

I change the internal oil seal, (technical term ?)

Pictures :cool:

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/Su8v1RlZQDI/AAAAAAAAGtY/HtlQKpe2W-g/s800/P1100857.JPG


http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/Su8v2Yl8TVI/AAAAAAAAGtc/p6jv3ZViPRU/s800/P1100858.JPG


http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/Su8v3HWZaxI/AAAAAAAAGtg/NyTou53a_5M/s288/P1100859.JPG


http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/Su8v4j3CZ4I/AAAAAAAAGtk/AsoBX3vO2Mo/s800/P1100861.JPG


http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/Su8v5fcjuwI/AAAAAAAAGto/d_orrbbHvRY/s800/P1100864.JPG


http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/Su8v8E64b3I/AAAAAAAAGt4/G_kdKgZVLmA/s800/P1100866.JPG

nice project you have, finally a frenchman who speaks english, 2 weeks back i was in france in Lafitole ( near the spanish boarder) to buy a 900 T16s from 84. but sadley it diddn't run as smooth as the seller told me. now my french is not the best but still.

so i read your topic, i found out that ist almost impossible to find a good block in france however here in holland there is plenty. so if you need something you can ask me if you found something to translate that into english. then maybe i can ask you tot translate into english when i found a good saab in france.

so if you need any help just say so :cool:

by the way the engine colour is easy to find, you can just use hammerite in the good green coulour you will get the original colour.

Thank you SpikeT8,

I'm sorry for your T16, In france it easy to find a used block motor, but sellers think it's gold.
They buy a 900 T16 400 euros and sell block 500 euros .... I love this kind of persons.... :o

But finally i spend only 260 euros for 4 news pistons and 8 exhaust valves

Thank you for your advert, but it's too late.... for the next block :cheesy:

No problem if you want some french translation, will be with pleasure

Thank you SpikeT8,

I'm sorry for your T16, In france it easy to find a used block motor, but sellers think it's gold.
They buy a 900 T16 400 euros and sell block 500 euros .... I love this kind of persons.... :o

But finally i spend only 260 euros for 4 news pistons and 8 exhaust valves

Thank you for your advert, but it's too late.... for the next block :cheesy:

No problem if you want some french translation, will be with pleasure

block 500 euros :o I have bought whole working engine for less :lol:

Thank you SpikeT8,

I'm sorry for your T16, In france it easy to find a used block motor, but sellers think it's gold.
They buy a 900 T16 400 euros and sell block 500 euros .... I love this kind of persons.... :o

But finally i spend only 260 euros for 4 news pistons and 8 exhaust valves

Thank you for your advert, but it's too late.... for the next block :cheesy:

No problem if you want some french translation, will be with pleasure

Where are these 900 T16 for 400 euros? i've never found any.
Nothing seems to be less than 2-3000 euros and a cabriolet 6-15000 euros?
Who is your parts supplier over here? Not APS? I ordered an air con condenser from them in June and eventually got a refund because they couldn't supply it in October!:(

Where are these 900 T16 for 400 euros? i've never found any.
Nothing seems to be less than 2-3000 euros and a cabriolet 6-15000 euros?
Who is your parts supplier over here? Not APS? I ordered an air con condenser from them in June and eventually got a refund because they couldn't supply it in October!:(

You could find some 900 T16 on leboncoin.fr.
For my supplier parts, an example

One Outer CV boot kit
Part for saab UK : 4.65 euros link (http://www.partsforsaabs.com/product_info.php?cPath=86_301_381&products_id=1696)
RBM Fr : 13.50 euros link (http://www.rbmperformance.com/lng_FR_srub_104_iprod_595_p_1v5-Soufflet-de-cardan-cote-roue.html)
APS Fr : 14.50 euros link
(http://www.aps-specialiste-saab.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=145_277_295_297&products_id=886)
If i'm not stupid, where do you think i go :cheesy: ?

I'm buying my saab part from UK, US and De, not france.
I'm really sad to see french suppliers take us like pigeon, so many persons leave their saab ... to expensive :evil:

I'm working, i'm working :lol:

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SviWy6mS9VI/AAAAAAAAGvk/0wu2_jFPTZI/s800/P1100882.JPG

I'm still working on my exhaust manifold
(Just for information, a used exhaust manifold is around 250 euros :evil:...big chance to be with cracks )
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SviW2EBmH7I/AAAAAAAAGvo/KUOrERE0waY/s400/P1100886.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SviW393_w_I/AAAAAAAAGvs/-DHR_DYOpDk/s400/P1100888.JPG

A little question

Somebody gave my a Te05 with a little problem

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SviW5d68dbI/AAAAAAAAGvw/tdLNlsXMCw0/s800/P1100891.JPG

Do you know where i could buy a door/flap ?

you could search for an donor turbo... some one thats allready broken but still has the good flap... just unscrew en screw it back together.

my supplyer? well just looking on the internet and talking to people. recently i broke down a T16 LPT so got many parts from that. and can almost get anything. so if you need something just ask me and i can send it.

thats not an original 900 head is it ?

Ok thanks SpikeT8 !

The flap i think isn't screw, is it ?

This head is an original, first version, with brand news exhaust valves from federal mogul brand.

i mean the wastegate flap.

by the way the head just looked a bit different from the other side.
what are youe plans ? with the engine ?

i have trim 60 turbo, 3 inch all the way and Gpl ( gas) injection tweaked the apc a bit but still some problems with the apc. ( i will make a project page one of these day's)

i mean the wastegate flap.



by the way the head just looked a bit different from the other side.
what are youe plans ? with the engine ?

i have trim 60 turbo, 3 inch all the way and Gpl ( gas) injection tweaked the apc a bit but still some problems with the apc. ( i will make a project page one of these day's)





OK but i'll try to weld a flap on this part

I don't really know, certainly Trionic 5 (this configuration is illegal in france) and after meaby 200-200 hp.


Maybe you'l find interesting APC stuff here : http://web.inter.nl.net/users/turbo-team-europe/apc.htm

I don't really know, certainly Trionic 5 (this configuration is illegal in france) and after meaby 200-200 hp.




Aren't all mods illegal here, Megasquirt included?
How often do they look under the bonnet? If they do they don't know what's meant to be there!

I think so, megasquirt is illegal too. because SAAB doesn't use in a 900c.

They don't look under the bonnet till you have a big accident with a hurted personn..... and after ... ??

This car will be a daily car, this is the reason of my interrogations

I think so, megasquirt is illegal too. because SAAB doesn't use in a 900c.

I know engine swaps are naughty in France, but didn't realise things like injection swaps were.

In uk is it autorized ?

Each car modifications souhld be show and approuved by the DRIRE (institution that gives autorization to drive a car on french road)

In uk is it autorized ?

No problem whatsoever - and no need to tell anybody except your insurance, for that sort of relatively minor modification.

So long as it passes the MOT (Controle Technique equivalent - but _much_ stronger on vehicle condition, and every year after year 3), that's all that's important.

Hey :cheesy:

Good news ! My motor is finish :cool:

I'm glad to share theses pictures
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SxRWWCbWlTI/AAAAAAAAGxE/6-wXAma4weM/s800/P1100894.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SxRWXGZGC7I/AAAAAAAAGxI/jO2Vf2671d4/s800/P1100896.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SxRWZc6-JcI/AAAAAAAAGxM/EOgk23gj2sU/s800/P1100897.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SxRWeQegXII/AAAAAAAAGxQ/H3eUHqO_b-w/s800/P1100899.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SxRWfQmneFI/AAAAAAAAGxU/9tuXp9ckndw/s800/P1100902.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SxRWgum1o6I/AAAAAAAAGxc/MaT6fYaGNZs/s800/P1100903.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SxRWhmMAiBI/AAAAAAAAGxg/_8Dl-kZUDKs/s800/P1100905.JPG

It's done !
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SxRYGfft-RI/AAAAAAAAGx8/xr6Jc6Kkakk/s800/P1100909.JPG
Next step
The gearbox, ;oops:
I'm little bit afraid to open it

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SxRZRmNNMJI/AAAAAAAAGyA/9I6N7NrX3zc/s800/P1100923.JPG

Nice work with the engine.
The gearbox is not really that difficult, just lay it all out neat and tidy so you can see how it should be when you rebuild it.
Why are you stripping it down? What are the problems with it?

Ok thank for the advertisment.
I have saab official document on the gearbox.

Yes i have a little problème with the second synchro, i'll change all bearing.

I need to make the famous saab tool.

Yes i have a little problème with the second synchro, i'll change all bearing.

Normally it's just a case of changing the syncro hub and bulkring, but sometimes you have to change the gear aswell if the teeth the hub slides over are damaged.

I need to make the famous saab tool.

Which tool?

Ok I'll see,

I'm talking about this tool

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SbgC19k7SGI/AAAAAAAAF1s/uZECu3RuXMQ/s400/outil-1.jpg

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SbgC2uMCYGI/AAAAAAAAF10/0_VARa0U3Jk/s400/outil-2.jpg

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SbgC37mAccI/AAAAAAAAF18/wcPIcdyvx2s/s400/outil-3.jpg

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SbgC8YEpwEI/AAAAAAAAF2k/vD2yaXRyHEc/s400/outil-9.jpg

Ok I'll see,

I'm talking about this tool

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SbgC19k7SGI/AAAAAAAAF1s/uZECu3RuXMQ/s400/outil-1.jpg

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SbgC2uMCYGI/AAAAAAAAF10/0_VARa0U3Jk/s400/outil-2.jpg

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SbgC37mAccI/AAAAAAAAF18/wcPIcdyvx2s/s400/outil-3.jpg

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SbgC8YEpwEI/AAAAAAAAF2k/vD2yaXRyHEc/s400/outil-9.jpg


I vaguely remember seeing that in the garage I worked in, but I never used it on any of the many gearboxes I rebuilt

How did you check the pinion depths, as explain in the manual ? :o

Hey :cheesy:

Good news ! My motor is finish :cool:

I'm glad to share theses pictures
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SxRWWCbWlTI/AAAAAAAAGxE/6-wXAma4weM/s800/P1100894.JPG


That's interesting, your motor is Finish? Mine is Swedish! Sorry, I had to, I would guarantee your english is far superior to my french, good job though! The more of these cars that are given a new lease on life the better.:cheesy:

How did you check the pinion depths, as explain in the manual ? :o

;) How do I explain? Easy, I didn't.:o
If it was a gearbox under warranty normally it was a specific fault we were curing (example, syncro/selection problems, reverse gear) so we didn't strip the complete gearbox, we just repaired the fault (before anyone critises Saab only paid us to cure the fault).
If it was a car with pinion bearings worn (normally high mileage, out of warranty), we replaced seals, gaskets and which ever bearings needed replacing (normally most/all of them), also the collapsible spacer between the pinion bearings and the lock nuts. We set up the pinion bearings by the manual and ressembled.
Now the important part, the rest of the components were always worn, the crown wheel(diff) and pinion were always worn, so you spend ages measuring it all, to put it back in the same position and it was all worn and out of specification anyway. Or to put it back to original Saab specification, same again all the gear teeth are warn together in the position with worn out bearings. So you gain nothing. Bearings are close enough tolerance and provided you set the pinion bearings up correctly and put the housing back with the shim that were already there, you have no problems.
If you replaced all worn components (eg diff/pinion shaft) it out priced the job, you then just replace the gearbox.
A lot of it is down to experience, you learn by doing the job.
I must also say that with the many gearboxes I rebuilt this way I NEVER had a problem.:cool:
I rebuilt my own gearbox in February 2007 this way with NONE of the special tools and using parts from another gearbox and it's still going.
Although it is getting a bit loose now, but it has be dragraced twice, gets driven hard everytime I use the car and has to cope with a lot more power than standard.

That's interesting, your motor is Finish? Mine is Swedish! Sorry, I had to, I would guarantee your english is far superior to my french, good job though! The more of these cars that are given a new lease on life the better.:cheesy:

I cannot remember if the engines specifically were, but certainly some Saab 900 were built in Finland.

;) How do I explain? Easy, I didn't.:o
If it was a gearbox under warranty normally it was a specific fault we were curing (example, syncro/selection problems, reverse gear) so we didn't strip the complete gearbox, we just repaired the fault (before anyone critises Saab only paid us to cure the fault).
If it was a car with pinion bearings worn (normally high mileage, out of warranty), we replaced seals, gaskets and which ever bearings needed replacing (normally most/all of them), also the collapsible spacer between the pinion bearings and the lock nuts. We set up the pinion bearings by the manual and ressembled.
Now the important part, the rest of the components were always worn, the crown wheel(diff) and pinion were always worn, so you spend ages measuring it all, to put it back in the same position and it was all worn and out of specification anyway. Or to put it back to original Saab specification, same again all the gear teeth are warn together in the position with worn out bearings. So you gain nothing. Bearings are close enough tolerance and provided you set the pinion bearings up correctly and put the housing back with the shim that were already there, you have no problems.
If you replaced all worn components (eg diff/pinion shaft) it out priced the job, you then just replace the gearbox.
A lot of it is down to experience, you learn by doing the job.
I must also say that with the many gearboxes I rebuilt this way I NEVER had a problem.:cool:
I rebuilt my own gearbox in February 2007 this way with NONE of the special tools and using parts from another gearbox and it's still going.
Although it is getting a bit loose now, but it has be dragraced twice, gets driven hard everytime I use the car and has to cope with a lot more power than standard.


Ok thanks for the advice, seems to be logic that all measures are for news or young gearbox only.
If i well understand, changing only the crown wheel(diff) or the pinion, I will need to respect the measures. But I don't really need (just check) for a old crown wheel with a old pinion used together.

That's interesting, your motor is Finish? Mine is Swedish! Sorry, I had to, I would guarantee your english is far superior to my french, good job though! The more of these cars that are given a new lease on life the better.:cheesy:

Actually I wrote a little mistake :cheesy:
I wanted to say : My motor is finished

Thanks for the compliment but depends of your french level :lol:

actually I wrote a little mistake :cheesy:
I wanted to say : My motor is finished

Je sais, mais pas grave.

Thanks for the compliment but depends of your french level :lol:
Oui, je sais, j'ai le meme probleme mais l'inverse, je suis anglais et j'habite en france.

I'm French, I live in France, i post on English forum :p

If you'll be free : http://forum.saabsportclub.com/saab/SAABoyagesetMeetings/900-classic-2010-sujet_6065_1.htm

http://images.mesdiscussions.net/saabsportclub/mesimages/553/900cl1.jpg

We don't know yet, where will take place (Paris or Orleans)

I'm French, I live in France, i post on English forum :p

If you'll be free : http://forum.saabsportclub.com/saab/SAABoyagesetMeetings/900-classic-2010-sujet_6065_1.htm

http://images.mesdiscussions.net/saabsportclub/mesimages/553/900cl1.jpg

We don't know yet, where will take place (Paris or Orleans)

I will have to see because that is right at the start of the boat hire season, always a busy and problematic time.

Ok i have opened the gearbox, and I'm following the steps indicated by SAAB.

First question guy :lol:

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15386&stc=1&d=1260107484

I don't understand what does 17 (I think 0,17 mm) mean ?
This distance is between which piece ?

Thanks :cool:

Ok i have opened the gearbox, and I'm following the steps indicated by SAAB.

First question guy :lol:

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15386&stc=1&d=1260107484

I don't understand what does 17 (I think 0,17 mm) mean ?
This distance is between which piece ?

Thanks :cool:

Good question because the dial gauge seems to be measuring backlash/movement between the crownwheel and pinion, but that won't be 17mm+/- 0.05mm. That would be more like 0.17mm +/- 0.05mm.
But it's not written like that.
What repair manual are you using?

Yes, thank you, I think I understand ! :lol:

"backlash/movement between the crownwheel and pinion" is synonym to clearance ?

Concerning the documentation I'm using this :
http://www.saabsportclub.com/site/ssc_theque/biblio/doc-tech/900_4-0_SAAB-900-5-Speed-Technical-Training-Manual.pdf
http://www.saabsportclub.com/site/ssc_theque/biblio/doc-tech/900_4-0_factory-saab-5-speed.pdf
http://lesaabre.free.fr/00-docs-saab/900_4-1-BVM_89-.pdf

and here : http://popeye.rty.nu/2002/vxlrenov.htm

Here's what the manual says (the first one on your list)

http://www.terrimoore.co.uk/clive/turbofrenzy/diff.jpg

and

http://www.terrimoore.co.uk/clive/turbofrenzy/diff2.jpg

I'll keep the links to the manuals because when I left the garage to move to France I left all my course work and manuals (I had them all from 1987-2000, 900, NG900, 9000, 95, diesel, all fuel systems, trionic, gearbox, the lot), not thinking that one day i'd need them.

You shouldn't keep this link, you should download the file !

I'm going in a new world, the gearbox world :cheesy:
After checking the clearance tadaaaaa :

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SxRZRmNNMJI/AAAAAAAAGyA/9I6N7NrX3zc/s400/P1100923.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SyVpFPdfWiI/AAAAAAAAGz4/2XenIgbZaYc/s400/P1110046.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SyVpGqZI61I/AAAAAAAAGz8/FzOXjWU1tdk/s400/P1110047.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/SyVpHxH72xI/AAAAAAAAG0A/gpKBSDRa5bw/s400/P1110048.JPG

Now, with a friend we will working on making a new tool to check the pinion.

Hi guys,

I haven't work on it during the winter... :confused: I need to change the turbo on my 92 turbo S, change front trains on the AX of my girlfriend and change on tripod on the sedan I8 of my father with a big check.

But, i'm continuing the project by buying some stuffs :lol:

Four red injector, I think i have all parts for the T 5.5 :cool:

And i bought a brand new TE05-12B core !

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/S501xHQymKI/AAAAAAAAHEU/pf9DFsQ1uz4/s400/P1110099.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/S501gx6BB6I/AAAAAAAAHDw/lQIYnaVAVRU/s400/P1110091.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/S501s7xZehI/AAAAAAAAHEM/29fgNmIHfjg/s400/P1110097.JPG

If you want some information about it
http://forum900.saabsportclub.com/download/file.php?id=103

For this core I rebuilt a turbine housing

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/S501UQ0NBcI/AAAAAAAAHDU/s-Jy_5oLuFU/s400/P1110085.JPG
the small cylindrical has been machined by the actuator and the door has chattered.

I welded the door and fill in the small cylindrical by MIG.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/S501OvEXhPI/AAAAAAAAHDI/r4nThHvBo6g/s400/P1110083.JPG

I will have to see because that is right at the start of the boat hire season, always a busy and problematic time.

I'm currently in a hotel 93420 my car is in the car park, see you tomorrow at the "900 meeting, 93440"?

Hey !
Hi Clive, i was glad to see you and your compatriots at the airport !!!!
Thank you for coming !

I'd like the roast beef eater :)
http://images.mesdiscussions.net/saabsportclub/mesimages/3767/28032010745.jpg

http://images.mesdiscussions.net/saabsportclub/mesimages/4240/DSC_5918.jpg

Ok I will soon come back on my project, I'm making some preparation stuffs

I though about a pinion gauge tool creation, but my friend which make it forget every time :evil:. So i decide to make it with my own tools. (drill press, grinder, MIG).

I deduce the saab tool is made of two parts :
- the first, the mounting (permits to reset the same way the gauge each time),
- the second, to check the pinion distance with the gauge.

With my own tool is impossible to create this tool with the needed precision 0.01 mm.

I decide to make the first part !
In my garage i found this :

I need a diameter of 90,00 mm, it's diameter is 89,xx

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/S-XWh65uXuI/AAAAAAAAHQw/Gam3LTFwzxI/s400/P1110127.JPG


http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/S-XWi7ipxPI/AAAAAAAAHQ0/k7DjnE1sP8Y/s400/P1110130.JPG





http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/S-XWkEGvaoI/AAAAAAAAHQ8/a-B3n-Q8zYo/s400/P1110133.JPG

Ok, now I need two parts :

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/S-XWmBNEHbI/AAAAAAAAHRE/Mqn14DPamXc/s400/P1110135.JPG


I simplify the shape
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/S-XWm8UQ3YI/AAAAAAAAHRI/-ZoZqILyZJk/s400/P1110136.JPG


I take a bar from a lower control arm.

I cut, braze and drill
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/S-XWoB4sBhI/AAAAAAAAHRQ/QJz0yRlBtLM/s400/P1110142.JPG


http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/S-XWo7M_rmI/AAAAAAAAHRU/mgW3x8QXBVA/s400/P1110143.JPG


Ca me donne ça :
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/S-XWpbe0AUI/AAAAAAAAHRY/2-qH3prf07k/s400/P1110146.JPG


I need to clean this tool and to ask somebody to make me 2 shims with the exactly dimension (15,00 mm), in order to gauge my tool.

Very nice pinion gauge fixture! Have you removed the bearings from the pinion housing yet (doesn't appear so)? If not, and if the bearings aren't collapsed or significantly damaged from wear, I'd take a measurement of the pinion's current location and shoot to relocate it in the same position after replacing the bearings. The other option may be to find a machinist supply and look for setup tools that are precision ground and premade. I would think that 15mm may be a pretty standard thickness over there and a premade ground shim/block will cost far less than having something made (unless you know someone with a surface grinder and a hankering for beer). You will need both shims AND a ground block on which to place them for accurate reading of the shim thickness. If you can't get the necessary setup shims/surface, you would be better off just relocating as it measures currently (again, excepting that the bearings are completely shot). Great job on the fixture!

Good news !

My friend give me the "calibration wedge" for my homemade pinion tool. :cool:

I check the reproducibility of the measurement and the result is a meusurement error of +- 0.02 mm.
Saab gives a deviation of +- 0.05 mm, so it's cool ! :lol:

My whole pinion tool :

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TDcvUtUHvSI/AAAAAAAAHnk/WFjXlyxTBhQ/s800/P1000489.JPG

After a quick test on my pinion, i found +0.02 mm.
On this picture it could be seen that the gauge should indicate 0 mm, I'm in the saab'deviantion (+-0.05 mm). :cool:


http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TDcvVceC62I/AAAAAAAAHno/2nrK-yEm2Uk/s800/P1000497.JPG

Next week i'll begin the gearbox ! :D

Ok, now i can't
My holidays is finished, I'm going to work on the gearbox.
now I can't come back et I'm going to learn a lot, you could appreciate some pictures below.


Calibration of the gauge tool
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TILkTnAHrwI/AAAAAAAAHq0/D8-kxns7FZE/s800/P1010197.JPG

Each measurement is performed four times with calibration between each time
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TILkTUMj6RI/AAAAAAAAHqw/tb0xp8iTPZs/s800/P1010196.JPG

Go go go !
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TILkVchoPwI/AAAAAAAAHrA/4UhYhXXrtI0/s800/P1010200.JPG

I carefully store the parts
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TILkV7c64VI/AAAAAAAAHrE/pr8phdabsY8/s800/P1010201.JPG

I remove the fifth pinion,
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TILkX1SMC_I/AAAAAAAAHrY/qzXYb_-NguU/s800/P1010205.JPG


http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TILkac30zbI/AAAAAAAAHrs/RfUxxcja9bM/s800/P1010211.JPG

the rear gear pinion,
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TILkcZp4utI/AAAAAAAAHr8/5JEK651PHac/s800/P1010215.JPG

The housing is fallen, I'll change each bearing
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TILkebY5VBI/AAAAAAAAHsM/ylyseN9ExeI/s800/P1010219.JPG

The other side
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TILke84bxsI/AAAAAAAAHsQ/akT2Dxwdl-s/s800/P1010220.JPG

It's gone to !
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TILkf7Zyr1I/AAAAAAAAHsY/Qm_pVV8o76g/s800/P1010222.JPG

In the box.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TILkgS0VqnI/AAAAAAAAHsc/Sb8bkQDBaYk/s800/P1010223.JPG

The selector shaft
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TILkkunoo7I/AAAAAAAAHtA/U2ylu104KnM/s800/P1010232.JPG

The pinion housing is dissociate
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TILkmREjabI/AAAAAAAAHtQ/gaVtdVdETEI/s800/P1010236.JPG

I' was surprise to see a different torque on each screw ... One screw was removed without any force.

I'm stopped here.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TILkqDiaWQI/AAAAAAAAHts/ZxZb1EUq0ZY/s800/P1010243.JPG


Now I need to check all parts, in this regard I need your expert eyes.
In a first time I'll change all bearing and the second and third syncromesh.

I discover a bad thing, the travel of my hydraulic press is too small to accommodate the pinion shaft... :( I'll need a alternative solution.

And I need to find, create a mmoe's tool like this :
http://www.saabphotos.com/gallery/albums/SaabTools/IMG_2755.jpg

I'll be putting up a "how to" post regarding pinion bearing replacement using only hand tools (no press). I should have this done and posted on Monday, so hopefully it will be of help to you. Tools needed are a "C"-clamp, a soft (but heavy) mallot such as a shot filled plastic dead blow, a rotory tool with cut-off wheel, a 2 foot (60cm or so) long pipe with 1 1/4 inch I.D. (32mm), a fish scale (spring scale) capable of measuring a range between 10 and 15 pounds, a pot filled with water and a thin wood block at the bottom for boiling bearings/pinion housing, 5 lbs of dry ice, and a large towel (for wrapping pinion and outer bearing races into with dry ice).

The proceedure will be:

1) Clamp pinion housing to a solid opening so that it can't fall over or move. There should be room for the pinion to travel out of the housing and something soft for it to fall into. I use a spare transmission case (which is already damaged) and clamp the housing to the inner driver bearing opening, allowing the shaft to fall into the differential housing filled with a towel. With the threaded end of the shaft protected by the 5th gear nut, the soft dead blow mallot can be used to drive the shaft out of the bearing (currently facing up). It take a TREMENDOUS amount of force, so you must hit the pinion nut with all your might. The soft mallot won't damage the pinion shaft or even the nut. I can usually remove the shaft from the housing withing 5 minutes or so.

2) Remove the outer races using a drift slowly from both sides, "walking" the races out of the housing. Be careful not to mar the machined surfaces on the outside of the pinion housing.

3) Remove the inner race left on the pinion shaft by breaking the roller cage off and then CAREFULLY cutting the race out with a rotory tool and cutt-off wheel. It is possible to do this with out any more than a light scratch to the pinion shaft. Once it is cut from one side, you can usually use a flat head screw driver to expand it and pry it off (again, be cautious not to damage the pinion shaft with whatever you pry with).

3) Clean all parts (housing, pinion shaft and NEW bearings).

5) Boil the inner bearings/races and the pinion housing in a pot lined with wood at the bottom (just to prevent direct heating of the bearing metal to metal). The water will heat the bearings only to 212 deg F (100 deg C). Bearings are capable of tolerating this temperature without damage, but cannot be heated significantly higher without damage, so it is important to let the water do all of the heating of the bearings. I think a person could use a basket to suspend them in the water as an alternative to placing wood under the bearings.

6) Place the outer races and pinion shaft into a towel and completely cover them with dry ice. YOU MUST USE GLOVES FOR THIS! The dry ice will freeze the shaft and outer races allowing them to mate with their boiling counterparts with minimal force required. The temperature differential will be around 350 deg F (175 deg C) so what was a friction fit will be only a tight fit.

7) With the help of an assistant (time is absolutely of the essence), remove the pinion housing from the water while a helper gets the first bearing race. Drop the bearing race into the housing (with the correct side out) and press it in using your fingers. It is unlikely that you will even need to hammer this in, but use a soft mallot at the end just to be sure. Do not flip it over until you are sure they have expanded together or the race could actually fall out of the housing (it is that loose usually while cold/hot). After the first race is locked in, but before the housing cools down, get the second race and place it into the housing. Again, it should just drop right in with minimal force required. Tap it further with the soft mallot just to be sure.

8) This part will require SPEED! Have a soft block of wood on a concrete floor ready to go. The pinion end of the shaft will need to be on the floor, but you don't want to damage it. You will also need to be prepared to grab your pipe quickly. This will be used to drive the bearing onto the shaft all the way against the pinion shoulder. This is a very tight fit even with the temperature differential, so again you will need to work fast. Have your helper get the pinion shaft out of the dry ice and place it on the wood block while you get the bearing from the boiling water. Be sure to place the bearing onto the shaft with the correct side facing up! It should be easy to get it all the way down to it's mounting surface, but it will quickly start to get locked on. As soon as it's near the bottom and can't go any further by hand, get the pipe and quickly start driving it down to the pinion. It must be all the way down. Once it is on, you can re-freeze the shaft for a short time to regain some temperature differential. After 5 minutes or so, have your helper get the shaft back on the wood block, then place the pinion bearing housing on (the correct orientation), install the crush sleeve, the install the second bearing (make sure it's facing the right way!). The second bearing usually goes on much easier and doesn't require much force with the pipe (last one I did just dropped right on without any further effort).

9) Clamp the reverse gear into a vise by clamping on the sides of the gear with the center hole above the vise (this may make more sense with a photo). Use something soft to protect the gear from the jaws of the vise. Place the nut onto the shaft and start it on the threads, then place the shaft into the reverse gear. Tighten the nut while turning the housing until you start to feel the first signs of resistance.

10) Set the pinion preload by fastening some string to the bearing housing and wrapping the the string around the housing with a fish scale (spring scale) attached to the end. Pulling on the spring scale will provide a reading of the torque required to turn the pinion housing. Tighten the nut slowly and take more readings. The nut should be tightened in small stages until you can read between 10 and 15 lbs on the spring scale. it is better to do more readings so as to prevent over-tightening. I can typically hit exactly 13 lbs quite easily and be right in the middle of the range. The preloaded bearing housing should feel VERY stiff to turn and you might wonder if you did it right.

Hope that helps and I'll PM you when I've written up a post with photos.

-Mike

EDIT: Be sure you and your helper wear gloves the entire time you handle the dry ice and frozen parts. It would probably injure you to touch those parts at those temperatures.

Dear mmoe,
thank you very much fort your "how to", it is simple and clear.
Using the material dilatation is a clever idea. :cool:
To me, the first step is the most dreaded, but I'm confident with your advice.

You could see my little problem :lol:

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TIQGx_lxGdI/AAAAAAAAHug/ivQ25Iwxa1g/s800/P1010290.JPG
but after thinking about it, the problem only occur for the disconnection stage. For the assembly step, I will reverse the shaft, make a hole in the desk, and use material dilatation :)


I'm sharing a recent idea to disconnect the fifth shaft from its bearing by using a press : The mountain bike chain & a Wastegate T3 housing

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TIQGyU5ArFI/AAAAAAAAHuk/LaFhHvTarT0/s800/P1010292.JPG

I love the idea of using a chain that way! It would allow for a lot of different sizes and I can see myself using that idea often. Thanks much!

As an alternative to a shop press or just beating the shaft out of the housing with a hammer, I've been working on a pinion shaft removal tool specifically for pressing out the shaft as well. I'll be welding a frame to a bottle jack which will bolt directly to the pinion housing. It will be dimensioned specifically to perform this task only, but will be very inexpensive to make and somewhat portable. I'm not sure if it will cause broken housing or not, so I wouldn't suggest trying that unless you have some spare housings around.


Edit: I was also thinking about your measure dimension of +2. This would make sense given that the bearings are not new and there is some slop to the bearings. For those others reading who don't know what + or - stampings on a pinion mean, a measurement of +2 would indicate a pinion that is located .02mm closer to the housing than a reading of 0. This would seem to indicate that your tool is functioning VERY well. Congrats on an excellent job making a wonderful fixture!

Concerning the measure of +2, you're right.

It should mean the pinion position is closing to the housing of 0,02 mm after 240 000 km.
If it was news I should find 0 according to the lack of number on the pinion.

But I think the error on the measure with my tool is more than 0,01 mm, so i couldn't conclude on my +2 (the saab tool deviation is +- 0,05 mm).

So I can't conclude that the pinion is closing or not, I'm only conclude two things :
- The pinion is still in the right position, to compare to it's theoretical position,
- I could replace it in the same position with my tool.


I hope i was clear.

I want to change all my synchros, I know the second and third coat synchros aren't available.
Do you have an alternative solution for theses ?

I have just received my little FMIC,

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TIEcIbRMqqI/AAAAAAAAHp0/JThz6Vo8OS4/s800/P1010177.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TIEcL9SAO_I/AAAAAAAAHqM/z9RI4ixk9mo/s800/P1010189.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TIEcJLU86RI/AAAAAAAAHp4/KP8pob73qdo/s800/P1010182.JPG

It comes from a 2.0 turbo Opel OPC Astra.

Please, could you give me your opinion on this coated syncro ring ?

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TIkWAHfdiDI/AAAAAAAAHwU/bRRiDCBTKX0/s800/P1010272.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TIkWAsiyi0I/AAAAAAAAHwY/l4S0LpDIByE/s800/P1010273.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TIkWA6jt0KI/AAAAAAAAHwc/CNHSjLfEXQQ/s800/P1010274.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TIkWBQnzq0I/AAAAAAAAHwg/Cxy8iVi9zao/s800/P1010277.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TIkWB4RHMgI/AAAAAAAAHwo/I2vIXZTthXo/s800/P1010278.JPG

Thanks !

The coating looks good, so I think your problems shifting into second are elsewhere. The selector fork wear could be part of it, but .2mm doesn't seem like that much so it must also be a combination of other things like the motor mounts and shifting linkage adjustments in conjunction with the worn selector fork. All you can really do is inspect the parts and replace those which clearly are worn or defective in some way. Looking at that syncro, I'd go ahead an reuse it. What does the inside of the 1/2 large syncro ring where the coated surface mates to look like? Are the selector forks worn heavily all the way around or just at the middle near the rod?

Thanks, I'm ok with your advice, i'll keep this coated synchro.

Here you can see the interior of the synchro hub (second) :

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TIlzFzWIxrI/AAAAAAAAHxg/X4Y2CLIN5ho/s800/P1010310.JPG

the synchro
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TIlzBjoREeI/AAAAAAAAHxU/8Q4dahqkrZU/s800/P1010305.JPG

the 1/2 fork, with a weak of 0.2 mm on each side

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TIly-L5CtUI/AAAAAAAAHxI/OtpwnHlFvbA/s800/P1010298.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TIly_HiNqGI/AAAAAAAAHxM/Jqmf3w-STSk/s800/P1010302.JPG

Most of cold times, the synchro ring seems doesn't : when I was pulled the gear lever, it was hard and I could feel the pounding of the synchro teeth without noise.

Thanks to Mmoe,

I could remove the nuts on the pinion shaft :cool: :


http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TMq5r-Xnz_I/AAAAAAAAH2g/BzuaXHQXioU/s800/DSC_4566.JPG



http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TMq5rb0mpTI/AAAAAAAAH2c/lkU9k1cXkIM/s800/DSC_4562.JPG

And thanks to the mmoe's brain : I could remove the pinion bearing.
I don't use dry ice (too expensive), just water ice.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TNB-pIzmfGI/AAAAAAAAH28/PtDoOU5izZI/s800/IMAG01462.jpg

the recipe :
30 min. on a hot radiator
15 min. in water ice
I fixed it on the gearbox housing
And go !

the result :

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TNB-p_IDp7I/AAAAAAAAH3A/5BxUawgKxVw/s800/IMAG01482.jpg

After some reflexion days I found a solution to remove the last bearing part in the lateral housing (inner driver):

I need :
- a old slave cilynder
- a old chain
- a press

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TNGiFEj7RpI/AAAAAAAAH4E/m3icxhxPkJw/s800/DSC_4583.JPG

This picture show you how to put the chain

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TNGiEW7Ql9I/AAAAAAAAH4A/0AhhVa2gxSE/s800/DSC_4582.JPG

In the order :

You need to put the slave cylinder part in the first time and in a second install the chain like this :

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TNGiFnmj2jI/AAAAAAAAH4I/FPSR1tK1pP4/s800/DSC_4584.JPG

And you only need to reverse the whole
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TNGiGD4RQsI/AAAAAAAAH4M/kzNlF9uwOog/s800/DSC_4585.JPG


the result
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TNGiGUmmYWI/AAAAAAAAH4Q/jjzmoEGM16Q/s800/DSC_4587.JPG

I hope it will be useful ;)

Ok, News !

I have received my order from Eeuroparts ;ol;, so I could begin to rebuild the tranny.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TP6GIe0Z-DI/AAAAAAAAH-o/-CnjY97iaIs/s640/DSCN3977.JPG

- All tranny bearing,
- forks 1/2 and 2/3,
- Locking spring 2, 3, 4, 5,
- all tranny nuts,
- a speedo cable for my Turbo S,
- all water pipe,
- some stuff.

:D

The differential bearing inner

The new inner bearing and the differential seal
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TQviSq23z_I/AAAAAAAAIEY/KsYmxRlG5Hs/s400/P1110220.JPG

After

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TQviTMwFmRI/AAAAAAAAIEc/npR9FBy323k/s640/P1110223.JPG

All bearing and seal are changed :cool:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TQviTkp3hOI/AAAAAAAAIEg/6QCmhMfNghQ/s640/P1110225.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TQviUQ4YGBI/AAAAAAAAIEk/fcMnlPMmXkE/s640/P1110226.JPG

The fifth bearing housing

All clean
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TP_-vxQw2RI/AAAAAAAAIBc/9jJtGQIC2Es/s640/DSCN3985.JPG

The first bearing is installed
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TP_-x8MR0eI/AAAAAAAAIBk/208zJTd2F50/s640/DSCN3988.JPG

I select the shim to place between the bearing
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TP_-0wl0-0I/AAAAAAAAIBs/eThIvyerbXc/s640/DSCN3991.JPG

the second bearing is installed
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TP_-zf6aMoI/AAAAAAAAIBo/hjo1FPvJXFU/s640/DSCN3990.JPG
Under a strength of 3 tons
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TP_-2WyuJhI/AAAAAAAAIBw/h2g8KNXucRY/s640/DSCN3992.JPG

I check the axial play

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TP_-3YjaaTI/AAAAAAAAIB0/frKpFiriBUM/s640/DSCN3993.JPG

Null, another tranny part finish !

The bearing gear chain

the new bearing is pressed

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TQviP0vTQKI/AAAAAAAAIEI/_un0HvlVngU/s640/DSCN4019.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TQviQnZG6DI/AAAAAAAAIEM/wBmGizAQ_Ns/s640/DSCN4021.JPG

I installed it in the gear housing but I found that it have a big axial play even with the snap ring install.
Is it normal ?
I could measure the play.


The other side of the gear housing

It has been cleaned and the big bearing is waiting !

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TQviNXlQvLI/AAAAAAAAID8/riTzqsiqJR8/s640/DSCN4006.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TQviODCA7JI/AAAAAAAAIEA/1zix0x1pUdc/s640/DSCN4015.JPG

This side is also finished !

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TQviPCvv4BI/AAAAAAAAIEE/9sgMJ9vg0bg/s640/DSCN4016.JPG


Concerning the pinion shaft bearing,

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TP_-8TeLAtI/AAAAAAAAICI/XPKq-PY-ivs/s640/IMAG0210.jpg
I'm waiting a tool to confirm the pre load.

All gear are finished
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TQviRaMeOVI/AAAAAAAAIEQ/Mk0i95CVVf8/s640/DSCN4026.JPG

Happy Holidays !

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TQviQnZG6DI/AAAAAAAAIEM/wBmGizAQ_Ns/s640/DSCN4021.JPG

I installed it in the gear housing but I found that it have a big axial play even with the snap ring install.
Is it normal ?


Yes, it's a roller bearing.
Tres bon boulot, tu peux venir ici et faire la mienne;ol;


Happy Holidays !

Very American:lol: Us English say "Happy Christmas" or "Merry Christmas";ol; and a Happy New Year.

Clive, I know that it's a roller bearing ;), but once installed in the gear housing i find a big play axial :o.
And I'm asking if it's normal ... I don't think.

But I don't find the problem : bearing is news, the shaft has a nice shape and the snap ring is well installed.


LoL the Happy holidays should be the influence of the American VO series (like Friends).

But Happy holidays could be used for the whole year holidays, while Happy Christmas and Merry Christmas are only for the twenty fourth and twenty fifth December. And Happy news year for the thirty one... your're a little in advance Clive :cheesy:.

I'm searching a gearbox for you, maybe your Christmas present :cool:.
Do you have a big flue for Santa Claus and the tranny on his shoulder ?

Clive, I know that it's a roller bearing ;), but once installed in the gear housing i find a big play axial :o.
And I'm asking if it's normal ... I don't think.

But I don't find the problem : bearing is news, the shaft has a nice shape and the snap ring is well installed.


I think it's normal (assuming it's the correct bearing), you can only press the bearing in and fit the circlip, I cannot see from your picture, but have you put the other circlip inside the gear behind the bearing? I can't remember if you can fit it afterwards.


But Happy holidays could be used for the whole year holidays,

It can but in England we don't say that, we say Happy Easter, Happy New Year etc


while Happy Christmas and Merry Christmas are only for the twenty fourth and twenty fifth December. And Happy news year for the thirty one... your're a little in advance Clive :cheesy:.

In English you can say Happy New Year in advance, if it's someone you won't see before the new year.

Ok enough of the English lessons, if you start correcting my French we'll be here for ever!;oops:


I'm searching a gearbox for you, maybe your Christmas present :cool:.
Do you have a big flue for Santa Claus and the tranny on his shoulder ?

No, but he can put it in the garage or the lobby. ;)

The pinion bearing preload is done at 14-15 lbs,

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TREC4VbAlHI/AAAAAAAAIIQ/jJx91-PmmuU/s640/P1110336.JPG

Do you know a tip to check the preload on the differential bearings ?

Verification of the pinion distance

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TSOPoONBSWI/AAAAAAAAIJY/1yzzzLUR_r8/s640/P1110337.JPG
Perfect

Assembling part 1

First of all, I check the distance between the pinion bearing back and the fifth gear surface.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TQviVATeX2I/AAAAAAAAIGI/vfnB_4Pv-gI/s640/P1110230.JPG

With the shim, it's good

The first bundle is ready !
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TQviVjI4r_I/AAAAAAAAIEs/Ii7ufxyDISg/s640/P1110239.JPG
We can see from the bottom to the top : rear gear, First, synchro system and the second.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TQviWnlWV_I/AAAAAAAAIEw/cFd2mN6Ygl8/s640/P1110243.JPG
Rear gear

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TQviXX9ntZI/AAAAAAAAIE0/Jy50DJYS3sc/s640/P1110247.JPG
First

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TQviaNVuT6I/AAAAAAAAIFE/sag91WVC1ZM/s640/P1110254.JPG
Second


http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TQviWnlWV_I/AAAAAAAAIEw/cFd2mN6Ygl8/s640/P1110243.JPG

Third
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TQviazCuSiI/AAAAAAAAIFI/dYQzJIlClqY/s640/P1110256.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TQvicbT27OI/AAAAAAAAIFQ/XSgHZKptnyU/s640/P1110260.JPG
Fourth

Ok, sorry for the delay but I had lot of of personal stuffs. :roll:

For 3 months i had some pictures for you

The ends of the gearbox :

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TSOPqnQak8I/AAAAAAAAIJk/rjJUyDdfL-8/s640/P1110344.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TSOPsOacSXI/AAAAAAAAIJo/C2ZVUM7YnK8/s640/P1110345.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TVEUBIZxVOI/AAAAAAAAITk/5_TqRkBtGGc/s640/P1110548.JPG

The rebuilt transmission shafts
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TSXePkgLEsI/AAAAAAAAIME/vRn0hFypWoc/s640/P1110434.JPG

The news wheel bearings
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TSdKgXL7R4I/AAAAAAAAIM4/E4I7PjNeVeY/s640/P1110450.JPG

I used two SAAB special tools : :cheesy:
an old 9000 turbo front brake caliper piston
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TSdKg2t0pAI/AAAAAAAAIM8/DKvqhh2N3Ao/s640/P1110452.JPG

an old pre-87 front brake disk
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TSdKaElfNCI/AAAAAAAAIMg/PqtH8kO468c/s640/P1110440.JPG

The motor and the transmission assembled

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TVEUDg5EuMI/AAAAAAAAITs/e5pM16geU5w/s640/P1110557.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TVMw9wGmQoI/AAAAAAAAIZI/S3bZQQ0dLpM/s640/P1110555.JPG

The trigger wheel installed :cool:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TVMtUt5bQDI/AAAAAAAAIYM/BiTtsSV4o_0/s640/P1110587.JPG


After two years my car move outdoor with its motor and its gearbox ;ol;;ol;;ol;
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TaYsaZfd-gI/AAAAAAAAIc4/_qP_xB1RIOI/s640/IMAG0398.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_9YiOVEeA8us/TaYsbRk10II/AAAAAAAAIdA/SXdMwQWnGuE/s640/IMAG0401.jpg


I'm really happy that the 900 start with all my modification !!!
But the fight isn't finished, I need to learn the Trionic now ! I have put a B204R bin.


My first problem is an idle to high 1100 tr/min - 1200 tr/min with an AFR around 17. Thanks to the innovate wideband Lc-1.

Very good and inspirating for me, as i will rebuild manual gearbox very soon (it is already waiting for me at "store"). Only one thing about Trionic DI cassette. Put heat shield above turbo, I want to say between turbo and DI connector. There could be to hot for plastic...